With repeated use of knives, every housewife faces a problem when they begin to become dull and it becomes simply impossible to work with them. In addition, this is unsafe, since the knife can slip while cutting and injure you. To prevent this from happening, knives should be sharpened in a timely manner using a special sharpening device.

You can purchase a knife sharpener at your nearest hardware store or market, where you will be offered various types of devices. You will have to choose yourself. But in order not to make a mistake, you need to know how to correctly evaluate them in terms of convenience and quality of use.

The offered options do not always satisfy consumers, so many make sharpeners with their own hands, using special stones, tools and drawing sketches with dimensions. The photo shows options for homemade knife sharpeners.

Features of knife sharpening

When sharpening knives, the main thing is to make the correct angle of contact between the edges of the blades so that they serve you for a long time and effectively. Therefore, when sharpening knives yourself, it is necessary to maintain the existing angle of the blades.

Each knife blade has its own optimal angles:

• from 10 to 15 degrees - for a medical scalpel or straight razor;
• from 15 to 20 degrees – for household knives used for cutting bread products, vegetables or fruits;
• from 20 to 25 degrees – for multifunctional knives for cutting a variety of products;
• from 25 to 30 degrees – for reliable companions of hunters and tourists on long hikes;
• from 30 to 40 degrees - for cutting materials that are particularly hard.

To sharpen the correct angle of the blade, you cannot do without special tools, since it is difficult to do this manually.

The design of such devices is not complicated, so it is easy and quick to make it yourself, and detailed instructions for making sharpeners you can borrow from the Internet.

Types of knife sharpeners

From a large assortment of different types of knife sharpeners, choosing the right option for yourself is quite simple.

The main elements of the sharpening device are a stop for fixing the knife and an abrasive stone, which is used as ready-made abrasive materials (stones) or self-made. But before you get to work, you need to learn how to properly make a knife sharpener with your own hands.

Types of sharpening stones

There are several types of whetstones:

• aquatic. Sharpening stones used in water are less likely to wear out during use.
• oil The structure and configuration are similar to aquatic ones, but with a more oily surface.
• natural. For their production, only natural raw materials are used with pre-treatment during the production process.
• artificial. In this case, the name speaks for itself, i.e. the abrasive material is created artificially.
• rubber. They are not as common as the previous ones, and they are also inconvenient during use.

What can you make a sharpener from?

To make a whetstone with your own hands, you can use the most in a simple way. Take a small rectangular glass plate about 5mm thick. Using double-sided tape, attach strips of coarse and medium-grit sandpaper to it on both sides.

The block is ready for use; if necessary, worn sandpaper can be easily replaced with a new one. This method is the most budget-friendly.

The disadvantages of this device include:

• rapid wear of the abrasive and fragility of the product (when fastening the timber you need to be careful that the glass does not crack).
• possible overheating of the material during rapid movements during the sharpening process.

You can find the best ideas for knife sharpeners on their respective websites.

Wooden bars

This method of making a tool for sharpening knives is also simple and accessible to everyone. You will need four identical bars: two abrasive and two wooden.

Before starting work, sand the wood blocks with sandpaper so that their surface becomes smooth without burrs. Mark the block according to the required angle of inclination. Apply a whetstone and mark its width on a block of wood.

Note!

Make cuts 1.5 cm deep according to the mark and insert abrasives into the grooves. Secure the stones with bolts. A piece of rubber attached to the bottom will give the structure stability.

In addition, you can make an adjustable sharpener with your own hands, but the next article will tell you how to do this.

Photos of DIY knife sharpeners

Note!

Note!

Every owner will be glad to have such a homemade product useful for the home, because sometimes the owner is judged by the sharpness of the knives. There are quite a lot of methods and devices for using blades. For example, it is enough to have either sharpening stones or devices advertised on TV with an angular gap made of carbide plates. To trim expensive knives, Western manufacturers produce hard alloy bars (about 10 x 1 x 1 cm in size and priced at 1500-2000 rubles). It is clear that it is difficult to call this sharpening; it is more like removing burrs from the blade. Of course, there are some specialists who can make an ideal cutting edge without any tools, watch the video on YouTube. There are many videos on this topic on the Internet, and the main problem solved by these devices is maintaining the required angle and width of the edge when sharpening. I propose to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Correct even sharpening is achieved by moving the sharpening element under the right angle and along the desired path on the curved part of the blade. For work, in most cases, they use bars with different grain sizes or sandpapers glued to perfectly smooth and durable strips. The disadvantage of the bars is the hole in the middle, which is regularly removed by straightening, and the high cost of the bars themselves.

To operate, the device is attached to the table with a clamp. The desired angle is set by moving the slotted bar along the screw post. The blade being processed is secured with two strips (in the second version, one five-millimeter plate is made with fastening with nuts and screws). To place the sanding paper, ten-millimeter glass strips are used, glued in pairs with epoxy and a guide rod located between the strips. Photo of glass bars with pasted skin and skin with GOI paste at the bottom without a rod.

Skins of different numbers in the next photo.

The skin is cut into strips and glued with a weak PVA solution or rubber glue. Processing proceeds sequentially - from large grains to small grains with water or oil. The movement comes only from oneself. When sharpening a very curved part, the position of the knife on the jig must be varied to ensure a uniform width of the shiny edge. Before sharpening and further, for ease of control, you can paint over the sharpened edge with a permanent wide marker. If you work carefully, you should end up with an edge like this.

The device was made from what was available - glass cost 100 rubles. last year, a set of skins cost 600 rubles. Since last year it has been used about 7 times for sharpening expensive knives. Photo of a modified clamp for massive knives.

The introduction of the Edge Pro sharpening machines was, without exaggeration, a revolution. The prices are really high, but no one is stopping you from copying the principle and creating it yourself similar device. We offer design simple machine for sharpening knives, chisels and any other blades that you can make with your own hands.

Machine base

Most parts for a sharpening machine can be made from literally anything, following the general principle of the device. As an example, let's take laminated or polished box plywood 8-12 mm thick, which was widely used in the manufacture of Soviet radio equipment housings.

The base must be heavy - about 3.5-5 kg ​​- otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening heavy chopping tools. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design is welcome, for example, the base of the case can be “forged” with a 20x20 mm angle.

From plywood you need to cut out two parts in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid with a jigsaw with bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm. When cutting, leave an allowance of 0.5-0.7 mm for processing the ends: they must be straight and exactly match the markings.

The third part is an inclined plane made of plywood boards measuring 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, while the trapezium of the side walls rests on the rectangular side.

In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the inclined plane should protrude 40 mm from the front. At the ends of the side walls, use a surface planer to mark two lines with an indent of half the thickness of the plywood. Drill three holes in each board to fasten the parts with screws. Transfer the drill bit to the ends of the inclined part and temporarily connect the base parts.

At the rear, the side walls are connected by a 60x60 mm block, which is secured to the end with two screws on each side. You need to make a 10 mm vertical hole in the block with an indentation of 50 mm from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be sure of verticality, it is better to first drill with a thin drill on both sides and then expand. Screw two fittings into the hole from the top and bottom with internal thread M10, and in them - a 10 mm pin with a length of 250 mm. Here you may need to slightly adjust the bottom fitting if its threads do not line up with the stud.

Tool support device

Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be modified by equipping it with a device for fixing and pressing the tool being processed.

First, set aside 40 mm from the front edge and along this line, use a matching hacksaw to file a groove about 2 mm deep. Using a sectioning knife or a shoemaker's knife, chop off the two top layers of veneer from the end of the board to form a recess into which you can insert a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common plane.

The handrail consists of two steel strips 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together along the long end with uniform indentations along the edges and three 6 mm through holes must be made. The strips along these holes need to be tightened with bolts, placing the caps on the side of the upper, larger plate. Arc welding bake each cap, welding it to the plate, then remove the beads of metal and grind the plate until a perfectly flat plane is obtained.

Attach the narrower striker plate to the notch on the edge and transfer the holes with a drill, then secure the rest with bolts. Before installation, it can also be magnetized with direct current, this will help in sharpening small blades.

Locking mechanism

The second part of the tool rest is the clamping bar. It is also made of two parts:

1. The upper L-shaped bar is 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
2. The lower strike plate is rectangular 50x100 mm.

The parts need to be folded in the same way as the parts of the tool rest were folded, placing the counter plate at the far edge of the upper clamping area. We make two holes in the center with a distance of 25 mm from the edges of the small part, and through them we tighten the parts with two 8 mm bolts. They need to be wound in opposite directions, with the head of the upper (near) bolt located on the side clamping bar. The bolt heads are also welded to the plates and pre-ground to obtain neat roundings.

On an inclined board with an indentation of 40 mm from the edge, draw a line with a thickness planer and make one 8 mm hole 25 mm from the top and bottom edges. Connect the edges of the holes with markings and use a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Finish the resulting groove with a file to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.

Fasten the clamping and strike strips through the groove in the board. Tighten the bolt protruding from above with a nut so that the bar maintains minimal movement, then secure the connection with a second nut. To press or release the strip from below (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Adjusting the sharpening angle

Throw a wide washer onto the pin screwed into the base bar and tighten the nut so that the rod does not rotate in the fittings.

The adjusting block must be made from a small block of hard material measuring approximately 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.

15 mm from the edge of the block, we drill a 20 mm end on both sides, the hole expands to 9 mm, then we cut a thread inside. A second hole is drilled at a distance of 50 mm from the axis of the hole made, but in the flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm, in addition, it needs to be flared strongly with a round rasp.

The block is screwed onto a pin, so it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the eye without complex system screw clamps as in the original machine, which in practice is a little more difficult to implement. In order for the block to remain motionless during operation, it must be secured on both sides with M10 wing nuts.

Carriage and replacement bars

For the sharpening carriage, you will need to coaxially weld 30 cm sections of an M10 pin and a smooth, even rod 10 mm thick. You also need two solid blocks measuring approximately 50x80 mm and up to 20 mm thick. A 10 mm hole should be made in each bar in the center and at a distance of 20 mm from the top edge.

First, a wing nut is screwed onto the rod, then a wide washer and two bars, again a washer and a nut. You can clamp rectangular sharpening stones between the whetstones, but it is better to make several replacement sharpening stones.

As a basis for them, take a light aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. This can be a profile rectangular pipe or sections of an old cornice profile.

We sand and degrease the flat part, and “Moment” glue strips of sandpaper of different grain sizes from 400 to 1200 grit onto it. Choose sandpaper according to tissue based, and glue a strip of suede leather onto one of the bars for straightening the blades with abrasive paste.

How to sharpen correctly

For correct sharpening make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20º for cutting edges and 30-37º for chopping edges, the exact angle depends on the grade of steel. Fix the blade parallel to the edge of the tool rest and press it with a bar. Using the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the sharpening block and the inclined board of the table.

Start sharpening with a large (P400) whetstone if the edge does not have correct angle. Make sure that the descent strip takes the form of a straight strip without bends or waves. Reduce the grit and go along both sides of the blade first with a P800 stone, and then with a P1000 or P1200 stone. When sharpening the blade, apply the whetstone with slight force in both directions.

After sharpening, the blade needs to be straightened with a “leather” whetstone, onto which a small amount of GOI paste has been applied. When editing blades, the working movement is directed only towards the edge (towards you), but not against it. And finally, a little advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engravings, cover them with masking tape so that the crumbling abrasive does not leave scratches. It also wouldn’t hurt to cover the surface of the tool rest with vinyl self-adhesive.

Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.

Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.

Layout of the block to the blade.

Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.

When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:

Defines the angle between the working area of ​​the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;

The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in such a situation is equal to half the sharpening;

Typically the angle is 25 degrees;

The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.

As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when processing independently, the “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.

Choosing whetstones for sharpening a knife

The main indicator of a block is its grain size.

The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.

When sharpening knives on their own, household members use these types of whetstones

which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.

having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife

whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.

When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.

Base

When making a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.

When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:

Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;

Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;

Installs 3 parts between the inclined walls on the sides - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.

In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.

The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;

Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;

Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;

At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; - makes a 10 mm gap in the block.

In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;

Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the slot, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.

If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.

Tool support device

When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:

Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;

Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and, using a garden hacksaw, uses this mark to cut out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;

Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;

The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.

Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;

Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;

Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.

Fixation device

Second important detail The tool rest is considered to be a clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.

L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);

A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).

When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Places the bottom bar on the far edge of the top bar;

Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;

Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;

Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;

Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;

Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;

Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;

It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.

Then tightens connection 2 with nut;

When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle control

When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:

Throw a large washer onto the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, and tighten the nut.

The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.

15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;

He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;

Screws the block onto the pin - sets the desired height of the eye without using fixing screws;

Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.

Using replaceable blocks and making a carriage

When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:

Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;

Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;

Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;

Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.

As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;

He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.

The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on 1 of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.

Simple homemade machine

The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.

The main reason for the popularity of usemanual homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.

When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.

However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:

The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;

When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;

During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.

Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.

Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. When making a simple sharpening machine yourself, you can use various available components.

When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.

Often, ordinary abrasive stones are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since if the angle for sharpening is incorrect, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.

Rules for sharpening knives

Layout of the bar relative to the blade

Before you start making homemade device To sharpen knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of specialists. At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the angle between the working part of the blade and the block. This can be done individually for each model.

The knife should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the direction of the block. The angle in this case can be equal to half the sharpening. This is due to the fact that during processing, grooves are formed on the surface of the blade. They appear due to exposure to abrasive components. With minimal tool grit, they will be negligible. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.

In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:

• the average sharpening angle is 20-25 degrees;
• processing is performed from the beginning of the blade;
• To control the sharpening angle, you can paint over part of the blade with a marker. In this way, the actual area of ​​influence can be controlled.

It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when sharpening with your own hands, the “point of reference” should be the bluntest part of the knife.

The grooves formed due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition for proper sharpening.

Selecting whetstones for sharpening knives

Knife sharpening stones

The main component of a homemade sharpening machine will be a block. This is an abrasive material that, when applied to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.

The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing and reduce the likelihood of defects.

To sharpen knives with your own hands, you will need the following types of whetstones:

• high grain size. With their help, primary processing occurs, the shape of the blade is corrected;
• medium grit. They are designed to remove grooves formed during the first operation;
• whetstone or leather belt rubbed with GOM paste. This stage is called polishing or finishing the blade.

The main task of drawing up a design diagram is correct location bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.

For sharpening ordinary kitchen knives Two types of bars will be enough - with high and medium grain size. In addition to them you will need a touchstone.

A simple version of the machine

Simple knife sharpening machine

The simplest version of the machine design consists of two pairs wooden slats, connected to each other using adjustable screws. A block is attached between these components.

The main condition for the manufacture of this structure is stability. While working, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the beam, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.

Despite the ease of making it yourself, this machine has a number of disadvantages:

• the blade is manually adjusted relative to the stone. At long work it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle;
• an additional fixation unit will be required. Since the structure must be stable, it must be firmly fixed on the desktop;
• During operation, the ties may loosen, thereby changing the location of the bar.

The main advantage of this scheme is its ease of manufacture. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. Touchstone will be required as additional components.

The thickness of the wooden slats may vary. In fact for self-made For a similar design, you can use any available materials.

Manual sharpening machine with whetstone adjustment

Sharpening machine with the ability to adjust the position of the whetstone

For achievement best result It is recommended to take drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.

The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is mounted. A screw stand is installed in a vertical position. A bar with a slot is attached to it. The whetstone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.

Features of operating a machine of this type:

• The sharpening angle is set with high precision. Its change depends on the thread pitch of the rack;
• Instead of a block, you can use sandpaper. For this purpose, a base is made of plexiglass. A hole is made along it for installation on the guide rod. Sandpaper is glued to the surface of the plexiglass;
• It is best to make the supporting base wide. This will make it possible to secure it with clamps on any tabletop.

The main problem with using this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This may affect the speed of work completion if several types of knives are processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.

To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of chipped stone particles on the blade.

Sharpening machine with adjustable knife position

An alternative knife sharpening machine

An alternative option for manufacturing the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is in many ways similar to that described above, but much simpler to manufacture.

A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second will be adjustable. By changing the distances between the clamps you can adjust the sharpening angle.

The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.

In addition to the schemes described above, there are a lot of sharpening machines that you can make yourself. When choosing the optimal model, you should proceed from the actual availability of available materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.

To get acquainted with the manufacturing features, it is recommended to watch thematic video material, which describes in detail a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands:

DIY knife sharpener drawings. Lansky knife sharpener drawing. How to make a Lansky knife sharpener. I needed a sharpener to sharpen knives. Mainly out of curiosity, what kind of animal it is and what to eat it with. I can sharpen any knife with my hands, but the convenience and necessity of what kind of device in the household should be clarified. After searching the Internet, I found several suitable designs. The simplest and most famous of all was the LANSKY knife sharpener. Anyone can sharpen a knife using such a device without any special knowledge or skills. It is enough to understand the principle, but it is elementary and any knife will be razor sharp.

As it turns out, the Lansky sharpener is quite expensive. 1400 rubles minimum for a basic set of a clamp, three stones and a jar of oil. The photo is presented below.

Damn greed: They ask for a lot of money for a sharpener, and there are three pieces of iron bent on the knees, two screws, and several stones. The hucksters are real.  Additional sharpening stones can be purchased separately, but not yet.

It seems like you need a sharpener, but you really don’t want to pay money for it. Therefore, you need to do it yourself. I carefully examined the design of the Lansky sharpener and came to the conclusion that there are no problems making such a piece of iron at home from scrap materials.

The principle of operation of the sharpener is very simple and can be seen in the picture. By progressive movements of the sharpening stone we form a smooth cutting edge on the blade of a knife fixed in the jaws of a special clamp. Consistently changing sharpening stones with coarse grain to fine and very fine, we bring the knife to razor sharpness. Movement of the stone

By rearranging the guide from the sharpening stone in the holes in the terminals, you can obtain several strict sharpening angles on the cutting edge. But since the cutting edge of the knife can be fixed in different distances from the clamping jaws, the sharpening angles float. And they are, in fact, close to necessary. This, in turn, affects the cut of the knife, but only slightly so that the user does not notice the difference, so you can close your eyes to the floating angle.

After rummaging through the Internet, I found drawings of clamping jaws. I redrew it into a form more convenient to read and converted all the dimensions into millimeters, since the Lansky sharpener is made in the USA, and there, as you know, they use the inch, not the metric, system. It's quite simple.

I drew in detail my own design of a clamp for a whetstone on the computer. And I detailed the details. This design has a number of advantages. Sharpening stones can be of different lengths; a stone can work alternately on four sides, and not on one like Lansky’s branded stones, which affects the sharpening time. The greasy side of the whetstone can be quickly replaced with a clean one, but the Lansky stones will have to be cleaned.

I bought a pin with an M6 thread in a store, this pleasure cost 20 rubles for a meter rod, I sawed off a 160 mm long pin with a hacksaw and processed the ends with a file, removing the burrs.

I made a guide from an electrode for manual electric welding, asked it at the welding shop, and they gave me several pieces without any problems. You can also buy electrodes on the construction market, they are sold individually, they cost mere pennies, they cost 3-5 rubles per piece. The brand of electrode is not important, the main thing is a straight, elastic, smooth and thin cylinder. I hammered on the flux and lightly cleaned it with sandpaper, removing burrs and flux residues. I bent it into an L shape using pliers and sawed off the excess with a hacksaw, according to the drawing.

Taking advantage of his official position, he ran to the machine shop, rummaged through a box with scraps of metal, fortunately there were a lot of scraps, and found suitable pieces of iron, made of some kind of raw carbon steel, type steel 3. I sawed it to size with a hacksaw for metal, processed the burrs with a file, and Marked the centers of the holes. Using drilling machine, drilled holes in the clamps and then cut the threads with a hand tap, not forgetting to add a drop of machine oil to the hole to reduce friction. I cut out the steps on the clamps with a hacksaw and adjusted them with a file, after which I sanded the surfaces of the clamps with sandpaper.

I washed the glands in soapy water, thereby getting rid of any remaining oil and chips on the threads, dried them and, heating them over the flame of a gas stove, buried them in liquid machine oil. For this event I used a “fishing rod” made from an electrode for manual welding and a piece of steel wire found in wire supplies. The "bait" was clamps. Each part was blued separately. I cleaned the threads of any remaining oil using a long bolt and thoroughly washed the finished parts in a soapy solution.

I twisted the clamps and the hairpin together, according to the drawing, not forgetting to drop a drop of nail polish (he stole the bottle from my wife) into the connection of the left clamp and the hairpin. To prevent the pin from unwinding spontaneously and to eliminate backlash. After the varnish had dried, I inserted the stone between the clamps, carefully tightened the nut and aligned the guide pin with the bottom plane of the stone.

At a nearby construction site I found a piece of a regular metal corner with a shelf width of 90 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. However, such iron can be purchased on the construction market or found at the nearest construction site. If you ask politely, they will cut the blanks to size for a small fee or “liquid” currency. This kind of stuff is also available in bulk at construction waste dumps; at scrap metal collection points you can ask for a small amount of money, that is, finding suitable blanks is not a problem.

I redrawn the original dimensions of the Lansky sharpener for a corner 90x90x6 mm. Since I already had an M6 tap at my disposal, I replaced the thread in original clamp Lansky on M6 thread for his sharpener. The uniformity of fastener sizes reduces the cost of production of the structure. In addition, there were small stocks of M6 screws for an internal hexagon of a suitable size.

And I drew the entire assembled structure and drew a detailed 3D model of the sharpener on the computer. This is what happened

Having filed the corners with a grinder, I processed the cuts with a file to remove burrs and cleaned the surfaces of paint with a wire brush and sandpaper. I leveled the planes from unevenness with a file and placed sandpaper on a piece of chipboard to create an ideal plane. I marked and drilled holes in the horizontal shelves according to the drawing. Using a grinder and a file, I ground down the bevels on the jaws so as not to interfere with the movement of the whetstone. I carefully sanded the scratches with sandpaper. I removed the radii at the corners with a file. I found a long bolt and wing nut M10 in the fastener supplies.

I marked and drilled holes in the vertical shelves. From the outside of the corner using a drill large diameter I removed large chamfers and bored out the holes with needle files to an elongated groove.

I screwed holes in the jaws and cut an M10 thread for the stand. The stand will be a large bolt with a nut. This bolt will secure the entire system into a table vise. A tightened nut on the stand will protect the structure from rotation and play.

I put everything together, secured the knife, that’s it, you can use it.

After several days of operation, I made minor adjustments to the design of the terminals. I drilled a couple of holes in the side planes and cut an M6 thread. I inserted spare screws into these holes. Knives come in different thicknesses, and the sharpener guide catches the screws. Selecting short screws from the supply of fasteners, I screwed them into place in the terminals. The reserve does not stretch the pocket and is always at hand.

By chance I got hold of a wing nut with an M6 thread. This nut makes it easier and faster to tighten sharpening stones on a stud.

For a complete set, I will purchase whetstones of various grain sizes. They are not expensive, from 20 to 50 rubles apiece, and are sold at any construction market or depot. Again, you can use Lansky's signature stones.

All that remains is to find a suitable box to store the sharpener. Gift tin and plastic boxes of sweets or cookies, which are widely available in confectionery stores, are suitable for this role. Finding the right one is not difficult. Gobble up some goodies for finishing the creation of the sharpener, and put the jar to work. To prevent the sharpener from hitting the walls in the jar and the stones from deteriorating, it is useful to glue pieces to the walls and bottom thick fabric or thin foam rubber. Or cut grooves in a piece of plywood and pack all the iron and stones into them.

The sharpener is on my desk, and I spent minimal money, mostly on whetstones. You can say that I only paid for the touchstones and the M6 ​​threaded rod.

I don’t see any point in paying our huckster sellers. The sharpening takes several hours, half a day at most, and only because the paint takes a long time to dry.

In online stores, which is much cheaper than in regular stores, a Lansky sharpener costs at least 1,400 rubles. And here it’s practically a useful device.

Of course, the Lansky sharpener has a number of disadvantages, such as a limited number of sharpening angles, which are slightly compensated by the position of the cutting blade relative to the clamp, and the high cost of the branded product. These shortcomings can be relatively easily eliminated at home with basic metalworking tools, ingenuity and a little free time.

During the production of the clamp, when the terminals were almost ready, I was given a real Lansky sharpener. So, there was no need for a homemade device. Thanks KonstP. Terrible revenge, for this unconscious element, came in the form of delicious dark beer.

In the process of producing terminals, I came up with a simpler and more functional design for a knife clamp, but more on that in the next chapter of the Notes.

The finishing of the surfaces of the terminals is far from perfect, since there was no task to clean up the mess. The product can be painted, fortunately there is paint in a can.

Devices for sharpening knives with your own hands: types and drawings

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.

A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term use of the knife the most important factor when sharpening it is angle between blade edges. During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

• for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
• knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
• multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
• hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
• cutting knives hard materials- 30–40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. While holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure required tilt angle cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

DIY knife sharpeners

There are many types of knife sharpeners, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

• a block of abrasive material;
• stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

Oil The structure and shape of the stone resembles that of water, but its surface is the most oily.

Natural instruments are made from natural stones, which undergo industrial processing.

Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working with them is not very convenient.

To make your own abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Sandpaper of different grits should be glued to the surface of the plates using double-sided tape. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very careful carefully tighten the nuts. otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpening device to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber .

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

• metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
• standard aluminum corners;
• metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
• set of nuts and bolts;
• a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
• needle file

Instead of grinding machine You can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
2. The holes are drilled and threaded.
3. Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
7. The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
8. An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
11. A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The end holder must be with through hole under the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very efficiently.

Required materials and tools:

The sharpening angle on such a device adjustable using bar and thumb. which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

Knife sharpening device – necessary tool on the farm

IN household There are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. During the work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives and planes to a workshop, but this costs money and takes up extra time. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool with their own hands.

Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness above 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a device for sharpening knives or other household utensils at the store. Save time, but spend a considerable amount of money - good sharpening is expensive.


By the way, there are different opinions about what the knife sharpening device is called. Emery, whetstone, whetstone, sharpener, musat...

These definitions may refer to the same thing, or various products? We will talk about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.

Since the advent of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), man has been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages it was easy.

Homemade knife sharpener made by yourself. The knife cuts paper like a razor! Simple design available for making at home.

Soft metals were adjusted to any stone. With the advent of steel blades, special rocks, usually of volcanic origin, were used for sharpening.

Some of them are still used today: the American "Arkansas" and the Japanese "water stone". These are expensive devices, so most craftsmen use artificial sandpaper.

A simple whetstone can sharpen both the knife and the cutting edge of the plane. However, the quality will leave much to be desired.

The golden rule of sharpening: Each blade has its own edge angle, and it should not change along its entire length.

This principle lies in the design of all sharpening devices. By following this rule, you can make such a device yourself.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device - drawings, varieties

In order for the blade edge to be processed evenly, several conditions are necessary:

1. Fixation of the blade is both reliable and without excessive load. Metal should not be damaged in a vice
2. Setting a specific angle for the bar. When moving along the edge of the knife, the angle should not change
3. Possibility to set different sharpening angles. You can process a variety of tools, and some types of knives have a stepped structure.

Device for linear sharpening with a whetstone

For production you will need:

• Plywood or laminated chipboard
• Steel stud with thread along the entire length, diameter 6-8 mm
• A block of textolite or ebonite. Can be replaced with hard wood - beech, oak
• Aluminum plate 3-5 mm thick
• Fasteners - bolts, nuts (preferably wing nuts)
• Neodymium magnet from an old computer HDD.

We assemble a frame from plywood, resting on legs at an angle of 15°-20°. We screw a 30-40 cm long pin into the part below. For strength, you can secure the thread with glue or sealant.


We fix an aluminum plate in the middle of the working surface. First we make a groove in it, along the diameter of the fixing bolt. Why aluminum? To avoid damaging the steel blade of the knife.

We make a lever to secure the emery. It is assembled from the remaining part of the hairpin. We cut out the bar holders from two textolite bars. On one side the stop is secured with a nut.


It is more convenient to make a spring-loaded block on the side of the handle - for quickly changing the sandpaper.

We use homemade bars as the main element - we glue sandpaper with different grain sizes onto an aluminum plate. Such devices are easily fixed in the lever.


A special feature of the design is a hinge with two degrees of freedom. It is assembled from two identical PCB bars. One is screwed onto a vertical pin, and serves both as a horizontal rotary axis and as an adjuster for the height of the lever support (this is how the sharpening angle is set).

The second block, with a horizontal hole for the lever, is screwed to the first. This ensures free movement of the lever vertically.


The knife can be clamped using a plate, or mounted on a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse sandpaper, the blade should be firmly fixed.

For finishing, you can install the blade on a magnet and sharpen it with little effort. The magnet horseshoe should be recessed flush with the table top and glued with epoxy glue.


Homemade device ready for sharpening knives. We set the required angle of attack and sharpen the edge with smooth movements along the blade.

The same principle is used in a device for sharpening knives on an electric sharpener.

Electric emery not only speeds up work, but also allows you to obtain a high-quality concave blade edge profile. This is the so-called dolovaya sharpening. It will not be possible to obtain such a shape on a linear block, so these two devices do not replace, but complement each other.

Important! If, when working with a manual sharpening device, you completely control the intensity of the process, then the high speed of rotation of the emery wheel can damage the knife.

Due to friction, the metal on the tip heats up, and hardening occurs. The steel loses its hardness and wears off with ragged edges. Another problem is that a “released” knife quickly loses its sharpness. Therefore, you should work with an electric sharpener carefully. Apply the blade for a short time and take breaks to cool down.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpener - video with explanations and manufacturing example

In this mode it is difficult to maintain a constant angle, so fixing the knife is mandatory.


The design is quite simple - along the axis of rotation of the emery there is a guide along which the carriage with the knife moves. The angle is maintained mechanically, and the force is determined by the operator.

The device is easy to make with your own hands - and it is not necessary to perform precise work on processing metal parts. The guide is literally made from the base material.


On the workbench, next to the sharpener, guides are attached, with the help of which you can change the distance from the knife stop to the rotating circle. This distance determines the sharpening angle. The vertical rod must have free movement up and down with a strong position fixation.


The knife is held horizontally, pressing against the stop. The force of contact with the emery is adjusted directly during sharpening. Processing occurs symmetrically, you simply change the side of the knife and sharpen at the same angle.


This method is only suitable for processing classic knives. Kitchen, hunting, tourist. The cutting planes of other tools require a different approach.

Design for sharpening knives, say a jointer:


A specialized sandpaper is used, with an end work surface. The guide for the carriage is located at the bottom, away from the axis of rotation.

It is in this part of the disk that the abrasive works most effectively. The guide with the cutting element is moved manually, the pressure is provided by the knife’s own weight.

Drawings of all structural elements are presented in the illustration.

This machine was used almost 100 years ago, and the technology has not changed since then. Simplicity of execution allows you to repeat the device in a home workshop. Any materials - metal, plastic, wood.


Instead of cutting elements of a jointer, you can sharpen ice ax knives for winter fishing. Only the angle is shallower. The scissor attachment works in the same way. The design (like the emery wheel) is significantly smaller in size.

You can also use an electric sander and a locking carriage to sharpen chisels and plane knives. However, these tools are compact and can be handled by a mechanical tool.

There are two equivalent methods - along the edge and across. The quality of processing is approximately the same, so it is impossible to give preference to a specific device.
The factory product involves transverse editing of the blade.


By analogy, we make a carriage from thick plywood. We use any rollers as guides, preferably more than two. By moving the machine along the sandpaper, you can give the tip of the chisel an ideal shape.


If you don't need serious sharpening, a simpler device will do just fine for minor adjustments. Attach a block with the required angle of inclination to the chisels. Place sandpaper and a piece of glass nearby. Apply to glass soap solution.


The effectiveness of the device will pleasantly surprise you.

And for transverse sharpening, you can make an equally simple device. The guide is also a support. The blade is mounted vertically on the moving part. The only drawback is that the angle is fixed and is determined during manufacture.


True, unlike a knife, deviation from the ideal is not so critical.

The same device is suitable for sharpening plane knives. Just because of the width of the blade, the process is quite labor-intensive. Therefore, you can use an electric sander with an end working surface.

The emphasis is made from wooden block. All you need to do is change the angle. The clamp is provided by the operator, and semicircular sharpening can be performed - carpenters will appreciate this option.


Of course, the same device is convenient for tidying up the edge of a chisel. Considering high performance– you will restore the instrument even after serious nicks.

Homemade device for sharpening knives and tools from a sharpening machine

When you again manually rub a knife on an old whetstone, remember this article and create a homemade sharpening installation for your home workshop.

Homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands: diagram, instructions, manufacturing features

Every man in the house will benefit from a convenient machine for sharpening knives with his own hands. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.

There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape.

To adjust expensive hunters' knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.

This article will describe how to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Why do knives get dull?

What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that the cutting edge is negatively affected by abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut. For example, they are present on vegetables and paper. Speaking in simple language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.

The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.

Sharpening technique

The sharpening technique consists of unified, but at the same time quite labor-intensive methods. the main task consists of eliminating damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and peace of mind.

The main rule in this process is to maintain a precisely specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.

What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?

In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a regular marker. They should paint over the connections and, after several sharpening cycles, see how well the paint is preserved. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not processed well.

If the knife you are sharpening is decorative, then you should seal the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you misdirect your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.

An important point is that the direction of the blade along the block is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.

The abrasive particles of the stone can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will be of no use during cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge may break off altogether.

It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for the diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of the blade moving beyond the limits of the device. It might damage him lateral surface or a blade.

Making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands

There are homemade devices for sharpening knives different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is availability the required material and tool skills.

The principle of operation of such a device as a manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a block fixed at the desired angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpening stone horizontally and holding the knife at the desired angle.

In order to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden strip, sandpaper and a couple of bots with lambs. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate.

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off some of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should sand its edge at an angle using sandpaper.

It is necessary to mark and cut off the top vertical stand, which will serve as a support for the block. The angle chosen is half that at which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives, it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.

A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, the drawings of which are prepared in advance, requires the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the transverse support. After this, all parts are trimmed and the edges are cleaned.

Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that secure the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is secured with bolts.

Vertical posts are secured with screws. It is also taken into account that the load on the bottom is small. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal crossbar is attached in exactly this way. The sharpening device is almost ready. All that remains is to make the block.

To make it, a strip is cut required length. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. To protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.

The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.

There are also other types of machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. In this case, it is based on an M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts are used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.

Heat shrink tubing covers the threads. A pair of paper clips serve to secure the guide stand at the desired height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of timber, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.

How to sharpen jointing knives with your own hands

Every owner who has a plane or jointer, I've probably encountered the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands. In this case, specialized machines or sharpening stones are used. If the jointer is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself machine for sharpening a jointer knife

To sharpen a jointer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.

Many people are interested in how to make a knife sharpening machine with their own hands. To make a device you need to find certain parts. Perhaps similar spare parts are lying around in your barn or garage. They can also be purchased via the Internet.

A do-it-yourself machine for sharpening jointing knives consists of:

The first thing you should do is find the faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. She is the one responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate guarantees complete and safe sharpening. You will have to buy this part new, but the rest can be used even as old ones.

It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.

The next step is to find a motor whose power should be 1-1.5 kW. There is no need to buy it. Any one will do, even an old washing machine. But everyone probably has a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.

Main stages of device manufacturing

When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly under it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be conveniently located.

For reliable protection, the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one corner cut out. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.

A hole of the same diameter as the vacuum cleaner hose is made on the lower surface of the table in the sharpening area. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.

What do you need to know?

Mounting the engine under the base of the faceplate is not a requirement. You can make sure that the parts are connected using a belt. In this case, the design will be more complex.

A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.

For fishermen, a high-quality ice auger is a great source of pride. Often, true competitions on the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And victory does not always smile on young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported equipment. There are times when experienced fishermen, equipped with simple tools Soviet made. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct settings of the device. Beginner fishermen, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye before their knives become dull. Tiny grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.

Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional was. grinding machine. In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made devices.

Homemade ice drill machine: what will you need to make it?

To make a device such as a machine for sharpening ice drill knives with your own hands, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.

Progress

First you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed to the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.

After making an arc from the same steel strip, a pressure plate is bent, which serves as a clamp for the knives being sharpened

Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having tightened the body and the pressure plate using a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adherence to the surface of the end of the emery circle.

If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the body arc on both sides.

Sharpening knives is best done on an emery stone that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip knives in water frequently. This will help prevent the steel from overheating.

Disadvantage of the device

The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different cutting chamfer angles. But each ice drill manufacturer offers its own models. In this case universal will do device.

Making a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any cutting edge angle. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, you can fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.

To make this device, you need to find a door hinge with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the canopy arms. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).

A fixing plate with a slot for a fastening screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.

It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the arms for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has greater versatility.

How are planer knives sharpened?

Tools such as planers and surface thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any other, become dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen the knives for planer with your own hands. To make sharpening equipment at home you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.

A knife holder can be made from a wooden block. Made through circular saw cuts at 45 degrees, you can sharpen knives with a belt grinder or a large block. If the latter is not present, then smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass, sandpaper is attached.

Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The optimal solution would be to use metal corners that have an angle of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. Using screws, you can secure the knives with a second corner.

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