I decided to try to build a backlight into a screwdriver with my own hands, as I got tired of periodically arming myself with a carrier or a flashlight in one hand, a screwdriver in the other, and even holding screws with my teeth. I don’t know how to assemble the backlight according to my mind, so I collected and configured it by typing. Everything that came out of this, we look and read a little lower in the topic. homemade backlight in a jigsaw, powered by 220.
This is what it looks like before the backlight was installed. The complete set of this model, there was also an instruction, but it didn’t get into the frame (it lies far away) :-)
A slightly blurry frame of the place where the button and diodes were installed.
I picked up the LEDs from a Chinese lantern, and took a switch from it. Of course, you can simply tape the flashlight itself to the screwdriver with tape, then you won’t have to disassemble the screwdriver itself, and such a backlight will shine brighter. :-)
At the button, I shortened one of the contacts so that they become the same.
I disconnected the battery, the tester determined where it has (+) and where (-)
I decided to put 4 LEDs, because the place allows. I asked them sequentially.
I don’t understand much in electrics, so I started picking up a resistor with 5 kOhm and stopped at 1.1 kOhm 0.5 W.
Everything was picked up and prepared, now you can disassemble the screwdriver. Screws of different lengths, so we add them according to the location of the screwdriver holes.
I tried to power the bulbs from the motor so that the backlight turns on at the same time as the trigger is pressed, but I didn’t like the fact that the brightness changes with the engine speed.
I thought about disassembling the switch and looking for a place where I could pick up the diodes, but when I saw this picture under the cover, something got sick of disassembling it further. :-)
Then, after thinking carefully, I came to the conclusion that the backlight is not needed all the time, so I began to look for a place where to build in the switch from the lantern.
I was looking for a place not for a long time, since there is not so much of it, in some places I had to undermine the stiffeners. I decided to put the button right behind the bit holder, folded both halves and drilled a hole in the base of the case with a dremel, periodically trying on the button. Since the case is thick and the black rim of the button does not come out, I chamfered the hole around the hole on the case.
To have something to stick the button on, I found such a canopy.
I put it in a pocket between the stiffening ribs and filled it with hot glue, leaving a place for a button.
I cut out and glued a piece of glue stick on the button, it was probably necessary to fill the canopy immediately under right angle, then you would not have to cut such a curved piece. :-)
I tried it on but did not glue it, since the wires have not yet been soldered.
I glued paper tape in place of future holes for the setodiods, marked the centers of the holes, punched, drilled first with a thin drill, then drilled to the diameter of the LEDs.
By the way, when drilling under the diode, try to set the direction of the drill so that when you install the LED in its place and turn it on, the light falls just below the drill chuck. Then it will not be necessary to adjust the LEDs in their seats. A little lower, this is an amendment to long drill or a bat.
Trying on diodes, interfering partitions down, but without fanaticism, otherwise the case will become rubber. :-)
I soldered the wires to the button and the LEDs, after which I glued the button to the piece of iron, crimped the resistor with heat shrink and placed it vertically next to the button.
I connected diodes to these wires under the main switch, just cut off the insulation from them and soldered my wires to them. I didn’t solder on the terminals themselves, so as not to overheat the switch case and the delicate insides.
We connect the battery and check.
He slammed the body halves and made a trial run with the nozzle installed, put it against the wall to see where the light bulbs were shining. After that, I disassembled it, spilled the button and LEDs with hot glue for fixing and finally assembled the screwdriver.
The button is tight and slightly recessed, you won't accidentally press it. The LEDs stick out, but time will tell, if they get in the way, then I grind them flush.
A fragment of a video with a test of this backlight, so to speak, in the field.
In general, I am satisfied with the backlight, I think a flashlight taped with adhesive tape would look worse. :-)
Channel author Viktor Voronov spoke about his idea of making a powerful backlight, thanks to which there will be no problems when tightening screws not only in a darkened place, but even in absolute darkness. The master made the backlight for the screwdriver on the basis of an old flashlight that no longer worked.
I disassembled the flashlight and removed the LEDs from it. They give a very strong light.
Carefully clamped the LEDs in a small vise. So it is convenient to solder the wires to the terminals of the light bulb. I decided to use two LEDs, then there will be enough light.
The circuit is simple, it was more difficult to insert it. I connected two LEDs in one direction and one 220 ohm resistor in series. The circuit is assembled correctly - the glow is observed.
Now you need to prepare a place to install the circuit. The bottom of the screwdriver is suitable for this. We drill 2 holes. This is the place for the light bulbs. Now you need to remove one side of the screwdriver. It is easy to do this with a screwdriver. Some screwdrivers have screws with a special head, in which case you will need a special wrench.
I removed one cover and now arrange the parts in their places. Fix the parts with hot glue. This is a convenient and practical way. This is easier than fixing with steel fasteners.
Let's make a switch for the LEDs. The place for this will be a rectangular hole. All is ready. Correct position wires so that the LEDs start to glow. If this was not achieved immediately, swap the wires.
As you can see, the LEDs are lit and let's assemble the screwdriver in its original state. Backlight check. This works very well. You can make sure that the backlight is very good fit. You can work even in total darkness..
Source: youtu.be/r7UYFx7AdfE
How to make your own backlight for a screwdriver?
You work in a dark place, you need a backlight, we will help you make it from improvised means
Need a cap
And LEDs 12 volts, crystal size 50 to 50
cut off 3 pieces
Soldering the wires
Plus - red, minus - black
Bend to size cap
We are filming protective covering off the tape
And glue to the cap using droplets of superglue
Among the screwdrivers of the high price category there are screwdrivers with light working area. Sometimes it is very convenient, so it was decided to modify the Skill 2006 AA screwdriver with our own hands. At one time it was one of the cheapest screwdrivers with a battery voltage of 12 volts and a pulling force of 28 N * m.
After carefully examining the screwdriver, you can see that the places for installation LED backlight where it is usually placed in expensive models - no due to the presence of a case mounting screw.
As a result, it was decided to install backlight into the battery, and supply power to the LED through a switch mounted in the same battery.
Disassembling the battery is not difficult: unscrew 4 screws, remove the lower half of the case and, gently pressing on the contacts, take out the battery banks themselves.
LED and button will be set to upper case battery, while the LED will be directed to working area screwdriver.
To install the LED and the switch, we make holes in the upper case.
The screwdriver is ready to install the backlight.
Now about the backlight itself.
A white LED, designed for a supply voltage of 3 volts, we will power from a 12 volt battery. To do this, you need to install a quenching resistor. In the search engine, we hammer in “selection of a quenching resistor for an LED” and a whole bunch of links to online calculators are displayed to us. We go to any and see something similar to this: 
We enter the data and get the finished calculation. At first, I entered a current of 20 mA for the LED, but at this current the light was not very bright. As a result, a resistor with a resistance of 270 ohms was chosen.
We are looking for such a resistor (I found a Soviet MLT in my deposits, once soldered from somewhere). Then we solder the elements to each other, not forgetting to mark the polarity of the connection in any way. It turned out that the LED reached the button with its leg.
After mounting the button and LED, fill them with hot glue.
Solder the wires to the battery terminals. With a positive wire, everything is simple - there is a place for soldering, but the negative copper (or brass) contact is covered with metal, to which rosin does not stick. We do it simply: scrape it off with a knife metal coating to non-ferrous metal and solder with rosin without problems. You can, of course, use special fluxes, it will be even more convenient. 
So, soldered, turned on the backlight - it works. Now we assemble the battery in reverse order.
As a result, we got a screwdriver with illumination independent of the engine.
At the same time, the battery can now be used as a flashlight when searching for some fallen small things.
Any serious machine requires its own backlight, independent of anything. At one point I got tired of twisting table lamp during operation, directing it to the machine, then back to the table. And here I am hardware store Got the LED module...
The module is designed for 12 volt, but I didn’t want to fence the transformer power supply, although the place allowed.
Having opened the compound in the right places to make connections, I sketched out its scheme:
The diagram shows two pairs of LEDs connected in series and connected to a power source in parallel. A banal decrease in the value of the resistors did not give results, since when connected in series, they refused to burn from 5 volts, even when replacing the resistors with jumpers.
by the most simplest way convert the module to work from 5 volts - solder 2 resistors and use jumpers to achieve a parallel connection of the LEDs:
With such a connection the resistor value should be slightly lower than 33 ohms , but there was no rich choice of low-resistance resistors, and even more so SMD. The brightness of the glow fell a little, but not fatally.
Now the only thing left is to put everything together, or rather to fix it on a drilling machine.
The phone charger was attached with a clamp, already behind the existing bolt, so as not to drill cast iron. The plug leads are slightly shortened, the wires soldered to them are brought into the electric motor junction box. When the machine is turned on, voltage will be supplied to the motor with a power supply, and the backlight will light up.
Long thinking about the best option the location of the LED module on the machine, came to the conclusion that its it is better to fix on the front of the quill . In this position, the work area will be better lit, and the shadow from the drill will not interfere.
For a more even illumination needed for reverse side place another module, but for now I thought it was superfluous.
Basically everything. In general, the operation will show whether illumination of the rear of the drilling area is necessary. Another detail does not please me - the power supply turns on with a delay of 2 seconds. If I can’t get used to it, I’ll have to put another block.
Added 01.01.17
I was pleased with the backlight, I was even used to the fact that the power supply starts with a delay, but ...
The native Chinese cartridge died, a self-clamping cartridge was installed in replacement, 2 times longer. When drilling with small drills, he began to create a shadow. It was decided to make an annular illumination:
Made with 5050 LEDs and 1206 resistors (30 ohms for 5 volts)
At first glance it seemed that the backlight is perfect:
But when using small drills, we have a spot in which nothing is visible:
I had to make an additional flashlight on a one-watt LED:
The flashlight was blind. Put on a plastic ring:
Put another power supply in a new place:
In general, it went something like this:
Now we have a normal light:
Well, a few conclusions to all of the above:
- Short Chuck + Long Drill = Ring Light
- Long Chuck + Short Drill = Side Illumination
- Do not bother and buy a gooseneck machine lamp
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