Finally, the long-awaited moment comes when the created device begins to “breathe”, and the question arises: how to close its “insides” and give the design completeness in order to use it with convenience. This question should be concretized and decided what the case is intended for.
If it is enough that the device has a beautiful appearance and "fits" into the interior, you can make a case from fiberboard sheets, plywood, plastics, fiberglass. The body parts are connected with screws or glue (using additional "fittings", i.e. rails, corners, scarves, etc.). To give a "presentation" the case can be painted or pasted over with a self-adhesive film.
A simple and convenient way to make small cases at home is from sheets of foil fiberglass. First, “the laying of all nodes and boards inside the volume is carried out and the dimensions of the case are pretended. Sketches of walls, partitions, board fastening details, etc. are drawn. According to the finished sketches, the dimensions are transferred to foil fiberglass, and blanks are cut out. You can pre-make all the holes for the controls and indicators, since the plates are much more convenient to work with than with the finished box.
The cut parts are adjusted, then, having fixed the workpieces at right angles to each other, the joints with inside are soldered with ordinary solder with a sufficiently powerful soldering iron. There are only two “subtleties” in this process: do not forget to give allowances for the thickness of the material on the right sides of the workpieces and take into account that the solder shrinks in volume during solidification, and the soldered plates must be firmly fixed for the time the solder cools so that they are not “led”.
When the device needs protection from electric fields, the body is made of conductive materials (aluminum and its alloys, copper, brass, etc.). It is advisable to use steel when shielding is required and from magnetic field, and the mass of the device does not matter much. A case made of steel sufficient to provide mechanical strength of thickness (usually 0.3 ... 1.0 mm, depending on the size of the device), is especially preferable for receiving and transmitting equipment, as it shields the created device from electromagnetic radiation, interference, interference, etc. .
Thin sheet steel has sufficient mechanical strength, can be bent, stamped, and is quite cheap. True, ordinary steel also has a negative property: susceptibility to corrosion (rust). Various coatings are used to prevent corrosion: oxidation, zinc plating, nickel plating, primer (before painting). In order not to impair the shielding properties of the housing, its priming and painting should be carried out after complete assembly (or the oxidized strips of panels in contact with each other (with a split housing) should be left unpainted). To combat this, spring "combs" (spring strips of oxidized hard steel, welded or riveted to the panels) are used, which, during assembly, ensure reliable contact between the panels.
A metal case made of two U-shaped parts enjoys well-deserved popularity.(Fig. 1), bent from plastic sheet metal or alloy.
The dimensions of the parts are chosen so that when they are installed one into the other, a closed case without gaps is obtained. To connect the halves with each other, screws are used, screwed into the threaded holes in the shelves of the base 1 and the corners 2 riveted to it (Fig. 2).
With a small thickness of the material (less than half the thread diameter), it is recommended to first drill the hole for the thread with a drill, the diameter of which is equal to half the thread diameter. Then, by hammer blows on a round awl, the hole is given a funnel shape, after which a thread is cut in it.
If the material is plastic enough, you can do without corners 2, replacing them with bent "legs" on the very base (Fig. 3).
An even more "advanced" version of the rack, shown in Fig. 4.
Such a stand 3 not only fastens the top panel 1 with the bottom 5, but also fixes it in the chassis 6, on which the elements of the manufactured device are placed. Therefore, no additional fasteners are needed, and the panels do not “decorate” numerous screws. The bottom panel is attached to the rack with a screw 2 passing through the leg 4.
Thickness required material depends on the size of the case. For a small body (with a volume of up to about 5 cubic dm), a sheet with a thickness of 1.5 ... 2 mm is used. A larger body requires, accordingly, a thicker sheet - up to 3 ... 4 mm. This primarily applies to the base (bottom panel), since it bears the main power load.
Manufacturing begins with the calculation of the dimensions of the blanks (Fig. 5).
The length of the workpiece is calculated by the formula: 
Having determined the length of the first workpiece, it is cut out from the sheet and bent (for steel and brass, the bending radius R is equal to the thickness of the sheet, for aluminum alloys it is 2 times greater). After that, the resulting dimensions a and c are measured. Given the existing size c, the width of the second workpiece (C-2S) is determined and its length is calculated using the same formula, substituting:
- instead of a - (a-S);
- instead of R1 - R2;
- instead of S - t.
This technology guarantees precise connection of parts.
After the manufacture of both halves of the body, they are adjusted, marked and drilled for mounting holes. Holes and windows are cut in the necessary places for control knobs, connectors, indicators and other elements. Control assembly and final adjustment of the body is carried out.
Sometimes it is difficult to place the entire "stuffing" of the device in the U-shaped half. For example, on the front panel you want to install a large number of indication and control bodies. It is inconvenient to cut windows for them in a bent part. This is where the combined option comes in handy. The body half with the front panel is made from separate sheet blanks. For their fastening, you can use special corners shown in Fig.6.
Such a detail conveniently fastens three walls at once in the corner of the case. The dimensions of the corners depend on the dimensions of the fastened structural elements.
To make a corner, a strip of mild steel is taken, and fold lines are marked on it. The central part of the workpiece is clamped in a vise. With light hammer blows, the strip is bent, then turned over so that the bent part lies on side surface vise, and the middle part was slightly clamped. In this position, the bend is corrected and the deformation of the strip is eliminated. Now the second side of the part is bent, and, after editing, a ready-made fastener is obtained. It remains to mark in place and drill holes in which to cut the thread.
Equipment, especially lamp equipment, requires ventilation of the case. It is not at all necessary to drill holes throughout the body, it is enough to make them in places where there are powerful lamps (in the top cover of the case), on back wall above the chassis, several rows of holes in the central part of the bottom cover of the case and two or three rows of holes on the side walls (in the upper part). There should also be holes around each lamp in the chassis. Above powerful lamps with forced ventilation, windows are usually cut out in which a metal mesh is fixed.
IN Lately, as a result of rapid moral aging, cases from computer system blocks appeared in landfills. These cases can be used to create various amateur radio equipment, especially since the case takes up very little space in width. But such a vertical layout is not always suitable. Then you can take the casing from the system unit, cut it to the required dimensions and “join” it with the “cut” from the second casing of the same kind (or separate panels - Fig. 7, 8).
With careful manufacture, the case turns out to be quite good and already painted.
The circuit is assembled, configured ... How much effort was spent on the circuit, searching for parts, assembling, configuring, and not much is left - the case!
It's no secret that a good body plays a very important role and gives the design a finished look. It often takes a long time before hands reach the manufacture of the case. What is it most often made from?
- plywood (wood)
- fiberglass (getinaks)
- duralumin
- plastic
- mailbox :)
- buy ready
I have a problem with the tree, well, I can’t work with it cleanly, I need good tool and enough space in the apartment. Fiberglass - I did it, I didn’t really like it. Dural must be found, and it's a little expensive these days. I personally am not ready to buy ready-made. Either the sizes are not suitable, then the price confuses.
In general, it remains either to make it from plastic or from a parcel box and suffer that none of your friends will appreciate the work of installing the board ... ..
So.
I chose plastic. Where to get it? 
In repair companies (firms, offices), with familiar system administrators. Everything will do: old keyboards, stubs from CD-ROMs, FDD, parts from printers, copiers (they are usually given away with gratitude in workshops - it's rubbish) and just plastic from something else. Plexiglas can be used. The main thing is that it dissolves in dichloroethane. 
Tool
There is not much of it: a metal ruler, a square, a cutter (made from a piece of cloth), a hacksaw for metal, files with a large notch, sandpaper (I take it in a hardware store, type P600 (fine grain) and P100 (larger) from Kona flex ) and dichloroethane plastic adhesive. Also, it is necessary to dissolve finely chopped pieces of plastic in dichloroethane, the consistency should be like that of a thick syrup. We will glue and fill small cracks with this solution.ATTENTION! Dichloroethane is toxic and volatile.
Begin
I saw plastic with a hacksaw with a sharp blade, not very fast, so that the plastic does not heat up. Nothing terrible will happen, it will just be difficult to cut if the plastic softens. I finish the edges with a file. If it is necessary to align the edge or adjust the size, then I do this with coarse sandpaper. I put a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface, grain up, and without putting much effort I drive the edge of the workpiece along it. The main thing is to distribute the force evenly over the workpiece.glue
I need a flat surface, I have a piece of chipboard.I apply glue with a ton brush on both surfaces several times and press it tightly, if this is an angle, then I control it with a square. If it is necessary to glue two small pieces into one, then I grease the ends with glue, press the ends against each other on flat surface. Attention! Be sure to reinforce the corners and joints with strips of plastic.
Treatment
After gluing, I proceed to the processing of the front surface. Large scratches, cracks front side I fill with a mass of plastic dissolved in dichloroethane. After drying (approximately 10-12 hours), I process the surface with sandpaper until the surface is even.
Perhaps that's all - the body is ready for painting. 
This is what happened after the final finishing. 
“Need is cunning,” says the old adage, and computer enthusiasts have never complained about the lack of creativity. Unusual computer cases are one of the manifestations of developed imagination and resourcefulness. These people are not stopped by the fact that after buying a suitable hardware, there were no free funds for a case for it. "Kulibins" prove that the lack of funds is not a hindrance when assembling a computer. It is the creations of such creative people and this material is dedicated to cool PC cases.
I bought a case, but there was not enough for iron
There are also situations when there is a high-quality case at hand, but there is nothing to put in it. What to do in such a situation? You can find a set of iron "from the time of dinosaurs" at a flea market, but not everyone will like this approach. Such components are noisy, collect dust, consume electricity, and even break down at the wrong time.
American enthusiasts have developed a Raspberry Pi mini-computer, priced at about $30, which is slightly larger than a credit card. The board of this little one contains a filling comparable to that of an average smartphone, and when installing Linux, such a PC can be used to watch movies, surf the Internet and other simple tasks. In the example above, just such a computer is installed in a desktop PC case.
The supermarket will help us
Do you have access to old fruit containers at the supermarket or vegetable market? Then you can make a cool PC case for just a hundred rubles. Potato box, a few cable ties - and the case is ready. 
Such a PC can be called an example of minimalism and ingenuity rolled into one, but there are also weirder cases for a computer.
All my life I dreamed of a laptop
Do you want a powerful laptop, but you don’t have enough money, and taking a loan is not an option? Then a tool box and a matrix from an LCD monitor come to the rescue. A little ingenuity, and with a flick of the wrist, it all turns into a laptop. 
Of course, in terms of mass, such a machine will be 2 times heavier than a laptop, and you have to carry a keyboard and mouse with you. But, of course, this example deserves a place in the selection of the most unusual computer cases.
DIY iMac
Apple computers are not a cheap pleasure, and Lenovo monoblocks, although they cost less, are also more expensive than a desktop. But what if you want an all-in-one PC? You can tighten your belt and save up for an iMac, or you can just take the filling from a laptop with a broken screen and a desktop monitor. A little double-sided tape, a couple of self-tapping screws - and we meet the new iMac model. 
For a complete entourage, only a bitten apple is missing, as well as a silvery color. But this is not a problem either: a trip to building materials (for a can of silver) and a vegetable store (for a kilogram of apples) can solve the problem. At the same time, vitamins in the body, after a long winter. 
Another example of how to make a monoblock with your own hands. 
The second life of a cardboard box
In the era of the development of online stores, everyone in the house gradually accumulates a huge amount of packaging containers in which purchases are delivered. Sometimes it’s a pity to throw away good boxes, and the place in the pantry quickly runs out. You can breathe new life into the box by using it as a PC case. This is especially rational if the brand new pieces of iron in it also came from the store. 
This approach is very popular among the people, the Internet is full of pictures showing such unusual cases for a computer. 
If there is no time to do needlework or all the skills acquired in labor lessons in the lower grades were forgotten immediately after graduation, you don’t even have to bother with scissors and tape. 
And so it goes. And even like this: 
Subtle and tasteful
Sometimes unusual cases for a computer can pleasantly surprise you. Sometimes this is the fruit of careful work, and at a price they are compared with factory models.
The production of such a case, made in the spirit of minimalism, probably cost several hundred rubles per plexiglass. And given that all the details are carefully fitted, the owner also worked on it for more than one hour. 
And this is generally a masterpiece, and the manufacture of such a cool case for a PC definitely cost the craftsman a pretty penny. 
Poor fish
Efficient heat dissipation and a stylish look all in one also deserves a place in the selection of unusual computer cases. One can only hope that the owner purchased an aquarium specifically for the PC, and the fish did not have to go free swimming. 
By the way, if someone wants to repeat such a step, you need to take into account that water cannot be poured as a liquid. For these purposes, synthetic or mineral oil, for example, transformer oil, is optimal. In any case, the fluid must be electrically inert.
Computer in a canister
Another example of the use of obsolete containers, this time plastic. Such a machine would organically fit into some fuel depot or car service. There, such a strange computer case would not stand out against the background of the general situation. 
Cooling is not superfluous
It was this slogan, for sure, that guided the owner of this strange computer case, entirely made of fans. It just consumes so many turntables a lot, you probably need another power supply for them. Yes, and one can only imagine what kind of noise rises in the room when such a monster is turned on. 
Once and for all
That's what you can call such an unusual computer case. Mounting foam it is very difficult to remove from surfaces, and if any part fails, then you will have to sweat to get to it. 
By the way, this is another example of recycling vegetable crates.
For those who are tired of the constant overheating of the laptop
It seems that the owner of this laptop is tired of constantly dusting his computer, regularly changing thermal paste and fighting overheating. Otherwise, why else was it necessary to install a powerful water cooling system on a laptop. 
True, it is difficult to call such a design a laptop, because we are not talking about any mobility. That is why this masterpiece of "engineering" was included in the selection of the strangest computer cases.
The part about circuitry is mercilessly cut out - this is what we ourselves know how to do.
Making an amplifier is not as difficult as it seems. All work can be done at home in the kitchen, with a minimum set of tools and materials. However, you can still get impressive results. In this article, I will tell you how to do it. I also will not use machines and will do all the work by hand.
For the case, you will need an aluminum square 15X15 millimeters, it can be more, but not less, otherwise the case will not have sufficient rigidity. First you need to cut the blanks.
I recommend that you first draw the body on paper and calculate all the dimensions, so that later it would not be excruciatingly painful. When I make cases, I proceed from the fact that all standard Hi-Fi class devices have cases 430 or 460 millimeters long, while their height and depth are not limited. The size of 460 millimeters seems too big to me, so I took the size of 430 millimeters. I plan to finish the body with glass 4 mm thick. It follows from this that the frame must be smaller than the final size of the amplifier. If there is a 4 mm glass cover and a 1.5 mm thick aluminum bottom, then the height of the frame should be 5.5 mm less than the planned size. And if you make the sidewalls glass, then two thicknesses of glass must be subtracted from the total length.
Well, the blanks are cut, you can start processing. Let's start with the vertical racks of the frame. Here, too, we must not forget that two thicknesses of the shelf of the square used must be subtracted from their height. In my case, with a total amplifier thickness of 60 millimeters, a glass cover thickness of 4 mm, a bottom of 1.5 mm and a shelf thickness of the square, the stand height was 51.5 millimeters.
I processed all the racks in a package, this will allow them to get the same height.
When the racks are ready, we proceed to the processing of the horizontal frame elements. Each end of the square must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees for convenient joining. You can draw on the school square (I promised not to use a professional tool).
Pay attention to the next two photos, they show how to cut off the end of the square.
The bevel should go to the shelf, forming sharp corner. Can be pre-cut most metal with a hacksaw, and finally finish with a file. Make sure that all similar parts are the same length. To assemble a case with dimensions 430X250X60, you will need four squares 422 mm long and four squares 250 mm long. An hour later, I had all the blanks made, and I proceed to assemble the frame.
I will assemble on M3 screws, I could have riveted, but rivets have now become in short supply, and traction ones are not suitable for this business - they will have a head sticking out. Screws must be purchased with a countersunk head and sharpen the drill at an angle of 90 degrees to drill recesses for the screw head.
Two squares are assembled on one vertical rack, as shown in the picture.
And this is the view from reverse side.
For greater accuracy, you can drill holding the parts in a vise.
It should look like an aquarium.
Now we need to make the bottom and back wall. I made them from aluminum sheet 1.5 mm thick. But you can apply roofing iron or plexiglass - it will not be worse. Just have to recalculate the height of the racks. I used a jigsaw to cut the blanks, but you can cut them in any way possible.
When cutting, do not try to immediately get into size, it is better to make a millimeter more and finally fit the protruding edge in place. Here, the bottom is ready. It must be screwed to the frame with screws with a pitch of no more than one hundred millimeters, this will eliminate its deflection.
Now you can cut the protruding part of the bottom to size.
The back of the case is done in the same way. It will be equipped with a power connector, input and output jacks. They must be purchased in advance.
We mark and drill holes in the back wall.
Well, everything is simple here - the holes are round, but you have to tinker with the power connector.
We mark the place for the future window and use a thin drill to drill holes as close to each other as possible. Then we bite the jumpers with side cutters ...
Five minutes of work with a file and the window is ready!
Now think about the legs of our future amplifier. They can be used ready-made from an old computer case, but I found suitcase legs that are made of soft plastic. They fit perfectly.
You can start making the front panel. I made it from an aluminum strip 5 mm thick, but this is not critical, it can be thinner, just a thick panel looks somehow prettier.
In the picture you can see some markings, this is what I forgot to mention. Specifically in this amplifier, I wanted to make an arrow level indicator. There must be some kind of highlight. But you can do without indicators, whoever does not make them can safely skip the entire description about indicators.
Indicators ... For them, I purchased two voltmeters.
And took them apart...
Of these, we need only the mechanism itself. Here it must be handled with the utmost care.
To give the indicator a professional look, we will combine them in one case and make a backlight. On aluminum plate we transfer the markup from the original nameplate and cut it out with a needle file.
And you also need to make a bar that will cover the mechanism from prying eyes.
It should look something like what you see in the photo.
It is worth paying attention to the side covers - they are needed to complete the design. And three more holes in the center - there will be LEDs indicating the input is on. This is what it looks like from the back.
The whole structure rests on the square, which is located in the middle. Illumination will be carried out by a strip of blue LEDs. They are located in the upper part of the case, above the indicator.
Three red LEDs must be glued into the holes located in the center of the indicator.
Well, solder the board with resistors to the conclusions. The LEDs themselves are connected in parallel with the relay windings on the switching board.
Under the indicator, you need to cut a window, we will use the same technology as cutting a window under the power connector. Only here it is necessary to show maximum accuracy and patience - the appearance of the amplifier will depend on this.
Here I could not resist and milled a recess under the glass on the reverse side, but this is not mandatory. You can use a thin transparent film for laser printers, this film is very thin and will not affect the dimensions, which cannot be said about glass.
The holes for the buttons are drilled with a 8.4 mm drill bit. That's because I have an 8mm diameter aluminum bar that will make great buttons.
The chamfer in the hole is best done with a countersink, it is difficult to achieve a flat surface with a drill.
The button itself is sawn off from the bar desired length and polished by hand with hand drill. On the reverse side, you need to drill a hole of 4 millimeters. The butt is desirable to polish.
The power switch is mounted on two long screws, this will allow you to accurately set its height so that the button does not rub in the hole.
The volume knob can be used ready-made, this will not worsen the appearance. There are some beautiful pens for sale.
But I don't like it, I used a homemade one. Whoever has a familiar turner - I advise you to turn to him for help and make just such a pen.
And for completeness, you need to make a decorative ring.
In combination with a handle, this will take a completely finished look.
But once again I will say - this is not necessary, it will look great with a different handle. Remained work on finishing the body. The front panel must be carefully sanded. To do this, we will assemble a small device.
The panel is fixed on a chipboard base, a square is screwed on the side - it serves as a guide. A strip of medium grit sandpaper is attached to a piece of the same chipboard. Sandpaper moves along the panel and at the same time is pressed against the guide. This will allow you to get parallel risks on the panel.
During processing, the panel should be plentifully watered with kerosene. It can be poured into a spray bottle, it will be very convenient. The panel must always be damp. Do not rub dry! Hard-to-remove defects may remain.
In an hour you will be able to admire the results.
The volume knob can be polished with a drill.
The only thing left is to cut out the glass for finishing the case. I used a mirror for this gray color. The simplest thing is to order all this in a mirror workshop, but you can do it yourself. Cutting off glass is not a problem, but processing the edges is a must. Processing is done sandpaper with water. Gradually reducing the numbers, you can achieve almost perfect polishing. But you can stop on a flat matte surface.
The side strips of glass are glued to the body with aquarium silicone.
Glass in the recess is glued with epoxy glue. After curing, excess adhesive is removed with a sharp blade.
We collect the indicator. The picture for the nameplate is drawn in any graphic editor and printed on self-adhesive film white color.
It would also be nice to order decorative linings for screws from a turner, they will give professional look amplifier.
The case itself is covered with black spray paint, but this is also not a necessity - the frame is almost invisible. If the case cover is made of glass, by the way, good results gives an ordinary mirror, you need to drill holes in it. I made them with a tubular drill. First, up to half the thickness on the back of the mirror ...
And then from the front. If you do it the other way around, you won't be able to see where to drill, and I don't advise you to drill through - in this case, chips are inevitable.
Now we take a red LED and a diameter of three millimeters. In the volume knob, a hole is drilled on the front side with a diameter of three millimeters, and on the back, almost to the end, it is necessary to drill it with a drill of four millimeters. A resistor is soldered to the LED, and the wires are insulated with tubes. It is advisable to use MGTF brand wire.
The resulting design is inserted into the hole and fixed with a drop of glue.
The handle is put in place, and the wires are passed into the gap between the panel and the axis. The wires from the LED are connected to the supply voltage.
Now that's it! It remains to fix the top cover. It is also desirable to put decorative linings under the screws. But you can use black screws.
The final step is to make the inscriptions on the front panel. The easiest option is to print them on transparent self-adhesive film. That's exactly what I did.
Here is what you should end up with.
Without boasting, I will say that it took me sixteen hours to complete this work. So this amplifier is quite possible to build over the weekend. Success!
After acquiring a new computer or upgrading an old one, a situation often arises that the computer case itself no longer meets certain requirements. This is the noise level, the installation of new parts or additional block power, cooling. And in your old building all these innovations do not fit, or the temperature level rises simply to prohibitive limits. And you start looking for the most affordable solution to the problem: buying a new case or making it yourself, on your own. This article will consider an example of how to make a computer case with your own hands or improve it. If necessary, you can watch the video instructions for making the case, for example:
As you know, when choosing a computer case, you need to think not only about appearance, although the original approach and non-standard solution are also important. First of all, you need to clearly understand that the case is an integral part of your PC, and not just beautiful box on the table or under the table. The design of the hull must be approached with knowledge of the matter. First you need to find out what types and types of cases are, their differences and functionality.
To date, only four main types of PC cases are known. There are, of course, many extraordinary solutions, but more on that later. Each of these types has its good and not so good sides, so it is impossible to say unequivocally which one is the best. Just read their advantages and disadvantages so that you have something to rely on in your design. Or if you decide that independent production if you can't afford it, then you will be clear on the criteria by which you can buy a suitable high-quality case from the manufacturer.
There are vertical (tower) and horizontal (desktop) versions of cases. Vertical cases usually allow you to put more drives and all sorts of other devices, while horizontal cases are more compact.
The first case type we will look at is called the Small Form Factor.
This type of housing is distinguished by compact dimensions. It's especially handy for office PCs, or for home PCs if you don't need a particularly powerful system. The dimensions of such a case are very small (about 25x25 cm), which allows it to easily fit into any interior and take up a minimum of space. Such cases have a big minus, such miniaturization requires a suitable "stuffing", small size details. In such a case, it is no longer possible, for example, to insert a modern powerful video card or processor. In addition, small dimensions can cause cooling problems, components can overheat, causing system failures and breakdowns.
The second type of cases is called Mini-Tower Form
Such a case can already be used for a fairly powerful office PC, or for a home media center. Such cases, as a rule, are initially equipped with power supplies with a power of 400W or more. In such a case it is possible to assemble good system with a dual-core processor, put a powerful video card, but many modern components for this option will have to be chosen on the basis of "mini". Another inconvenience is the need for monthly dusting.
The third type of cases is called Moddle-Tower Form
This case type is the most popular and widespread. In such a case, you can easily place a good ventilation system, several powerful video cards, and put additional hard drives. This case is well suited for those who are not limited by the size of the system unit. This type of case is difficult to fit into the interior, but it provides good system performance and will satisfy the requirements of even avid gamers.
The fourth type of cases is called Big-Tower
This case is very rare to find as a home PC. It is noticeably larger than all the others, and its height reaches at least half a meter. This case can accommodate not only about five good video cards or hard drives, it is suitable for creating servers or a computer that controls other computers in the office. Such a housing allows you to place in it good ventilation, which will save the computer from the possibility of overheating. Thus, Big-Tower is ideal for the most advanced users who are engaged in the field of IT technologies and especially demanding gamers.
The first point to consider when selecting or designing a case is whether there is sufficient interior space. It is necessary to determine whether you can place devices there for the necessary cooling of the system unit, installation of fans. It is necessary that air circulate freely inside the case, thereby ensuring the cooling of all parts. Pay attention to the power of the power supply unit (PSU) located in the case or purchased separately. It should be sufficient for the planned PC system. You should also pay attention to the location of the power supply in the case. With high power PSUs, you need to think about its cooling. The PSU only needs to cool itself.
For optimal cooling and low noise, the PSU can be placed according to such schemes.
In the scheme, with the top location of the PSU, we get the following advantages:
- Enough low level noise (19 dB) when installing a 430 W PSU, ARX FD1212-S2142E 12V 0.36A 2400 rpm fan;
- The temperature of the elements rises slightly (+3 degrees in the PSU and +1 degree in the case);
- Standard location;
- Free air outlet.
Such a design can be assembled approximately as in the photo below.
SilverStonetek has launched the production of cases with a lower PSU location.
The advantages of this design are:
- The power supply only serves to cool itself;
- There is no need to redo the PSU;
- Low center of gravity for PC case.
Among the shortcomings, it can be noted: excessive fan noise and difficult air access to the PSU fan.
The body material is mostly aluminum or steel, although many homemade cases are made from wood or Plexiglas. The advantages of the aluminum case include light weight and good heat dissipation. But such a body bends easily and scratches are not uncommon. Price aluminum cases higher than steel. The steel case has greater reliability and durability. All parts in such a case will be reliably protected. In addition, steel dampens vibrations better, which reduces the noise of the computer.
When considering different design solutions cases, it is important to first determine which connectors and interfaces you will need now and in the future. Many of options, for example, a thermometer built into speakers, you do not need it, but others simply need it. Here you need to decide for yourself which design and construction to choose, based on the above. And don't forget originality...
Do-it-yourself computer case
So you decide to do makeshift case for computer. This case should allow you to install any possible components in it, give them quick access and provide good cooling. Case options are already possible that provide: almost complete noiselessness, high performance, the possibility of increasing the computing potential, and ease of maintenance. True, such a case cannot be made compact.
The computer case can be made of wood using the technology below.
The diagram shows the location of the main components and the circulation of air flows.
Working drawings of such a building can be downloaded. http://www.easycom.com.ua/downloads/skvorechnik_001.zip
Or look at the picture below.
The computer case is assembled from six walls and one transverse shelf in the middle. The top of the case will house the motherboard. CPU fan, video adapters, and at the bottom will be placed all drives, a drive, a card reader, hard drives and a power supply. It was decided to equip the lower part with only one 120x120x25 mm fan, since there will be only one element that needs forced ventilation- This is the power supply. In the upper part for normal cooling of video cards and a processor, at least three fans must be installed, with a size of 120x120x25 mm. They are ideally located on the front wall of the future case.
The choice of case material is determined by your capabilities. Plexiglas or acrylic at a cost is quite expensive. Iron sheets, from which it is theoretically possible to make the same hull, are unacceptable, as they will greatly increase the weight of the hull. Already with a sheet thickness of only 2 mm. The manufactured body is likely to exceed 40 kg. And besides, the metal is difficult to process and its cost is also not small.
In our version, chipboard will be used to make the case. This sawdust, pressed into sheets with dimensions of 2660x1660x16 mm (W.L.H.) and impregnated with special glue.
The body parts are marked according to the given drawings and cut out. There is nothing complicated in this, but you can order from those who are engaged in the manufacture of furniture. If you decide to cut the blanks yourself, then you will need essential tool: electric jigsaw and wood saws.
You should get such blanks. Finish the edges well with sandpaper.
When all the blanks are made, you can begin to assemble the case itself. It is necessary to connect and fix the parts according to the drawings. A homemade computer case in a partially assembled case will look something like this.
Due to the fact that the front panel will be used not only as an "air intake", but it will contain the power button, restart the computer and all the main indicators (hard drives and the entire system), they must be embedded in wood panel. It is necessary to make holes for all ports, power and reset buttons, indication LEDs. Everything must be done carefully and strictly in size.
LEDs cannot work directly from the motherboard block, they must be connected to it in series with a resistance of 480-500 ohms and a dissipated power of 0.25 watts. All these parts can be bought at any radio store. Wires for connecting buttons and LEDs to the motherboard are soldered into the Q-Connector that comes with ASUS boards. Heat shrink is used as an insulating material. This is a tube made of a special material (polyvinyl chloride), which can change its geometric shape (diameter) when heated. In practice, a piece of such a tube is put on a wire, soldered to another, and the piece of tube is shifted to the place of soldering. After that, it is heated up a little with a lighter. After that, the tube narrows around the soldering point and forms good insulation. Shrinkage ratio reaches up to 30%.
This means that if the diameter of the tube is 6 mm, then when heated, it will change its value to almost 4 mm. Such a tube can also be bought in any radio engineering stores, and the price is only 2-4 UAH per meter. With such an insulating material, it is desirable to carry out all work related to the installation of wires for the manufacture of this case.
Connectors for power input and output from the ~220 V mains and a backlit power switch are installed on the rear wall of the case.
Should be paid Special attention choice of case fans. They must meet aesthetic requirements, as they will always be in sight. After all, the most attention is paid to the front panel. You need to choose the quietest fans suitable for your performance. Therefore, options for the type of gratings "grill" immediately departed.
A Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm Red Pattern or similar fan is well suited for this solution. His choice was determined not only technical specifications, which many fans can envy. This fan operates at a speed of 1500 rpm and at the same time the noise level is not higher than 17 dB, which is characterized as extremely quiet. Another advantage is a kind of animated backlight.
However, you can choose a more "advanced" model from this series of fans, Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm Logo Fan. In this model, as in the Thermaltake Cyclo 12cm Red Pattern, there are no various animated emblems, but the Thermaltake logo is “written”, the approximate temperature of the passing air is shown (built-in thermal sensor), and the relative noise level that the fan creates is also displayed.
All these fans are mounted on the front panel using wood screws in the following way:
To avoid the problem of bending the motherboard textolite, which occurs due to the rigid fastening of the cooler without a special pressure plate, you need to replace this pressure plate with something. You can choose felt required thickness(about 7-8 mm) and cut out a square with dimensions slightly larger than the holes for mounting the cooler of the Socket LGA 775 processor socket. If you look at the height of the stand for mounting the motherboard, the felt is 1-2 mm higher than it, which gives the necessary rigidity when bending the textolite of the parent stalemate. Felt can be bought in many construction stores or "from hands" in the markets. The cost of such a piece will be approximately 5 to 20 UAH.
At the very end of the entire roughing of the case, it is necessary to make all the necessary holes in the motherboard shelf through which the power wires, cables of hard drives, disk drives, etc. will pass. First, you need to temporarily screw the motherboard into place and mark and sign all locations with a marker connectors. After that, with the help of an electric drill and a file, all these holes are made.
A self-made case for a computer on the outside of the case is easiest to paste over with self-adhesive. This material is made from thick paper or a special rubberized oilcloth. Color solution limited only by your imagination or the assortment of the store (from pure white to various photo wallpapers). This sticker is sold in rolls. running meter. There are two types of roll width: 450 mm and 550 mm. The cost depends on the complexity of the pattern and width, and usually within 11 - 22 UAH per linear meter. For the manufacture of this case, a shiny black “self-adhesive” was chosen. After calculating according to the drawings, it was determined that five meters of “self-adhesive” would be needed to glue the entire body.
For processing cutouts, another material will be used, double-sided tape with a foam base.
It is necessary as a sealant in places where vibrating components (hard drives, drives) come into contact with the case walls. Foam rubber, from which strips 14-18 mm wide and 2 mm thick are made, is very soft in consistency and shrinks to 0.5 mm, having the ability to also spring. All this is very good for a compactor. The presence of an adhesive substance on both sides allows this seal to be firmly fixed, and individual components to be fixed with it.
It remains to make a "basket" for attaching all drives, hard drives, a floppy drive and a card reader. It is difficult and inconvenient to use a standard "basket", which is installed in serial cases, due to the non-standard arrangement of installed devices. You can use a piece of plexiglass 4 mm thick for these purposes. It will not need so much, somewhere a meter by a meter. The cutting of such material is carried out with a manual grinder or grinder. It is not difficult to make all these works. After that, it is necessary to drill the necessary holes in the blanks. Plexiglas is a rather fragile material, and sometimes crumbles if handled carelessly. To drill a hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm in it, you need to perform this operation in three or four passes, starting with a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, and finishing with 3.6 mm. You need to remember to drill out the "nest" for the bolt head to hide it. To do this, you need a drill of such a diameter as a hat. All drives, disk drives and a card reader are attached using the same double-sided tape seal.
To prevent hard drives from transmitting their vibration to the basket, thereby increasing the noise level, you can fix them with four erasers.
When all these operations are done, you can assemble the case. The assembled lower part of the case, with a “basket”, hard drives, drives, a card reader, a floppy drive and an installed power supply, looks something like this:
In a fully assembled form, this case will look like this:
Homemade computer case after testing the computer showed good performance temperature regime. The cost of a homemade case turned out to be much lower than specialized Middle Tower or Full Tower cases. In order to make a computer case with your own hands, you only need certain skills in working with a soldering iron and a special tool.
