Mixer      06/20/2020

Dremel: nozzles, purpose and methods of application. Homemade attachments for an engraver Homemade saw blade for an engraver

Greetings dear readers! It's nice when a person has his own hobby, I'm really happy for these people and I find them interesting and fulfilling. I also love to do things in my free time. But I rate my skills between two and three. Either you want to cut a carved bench into a bathhouse, or a stool from an array into a garage. It seems that no one needs a craft, but the soul is resting. For this, the usual carpentry tool. And when it comes to small local crafts, be it sculpture, engraving, carving, polishing. This is where the dremel becomes indispensable. When I was offered to make a review on the dremel that had already been on the pages of Muska, I agreed, because the truth does not fade from repetition. Under the cut there will be disassembly and examples of use and attention, a lot of photos !!!

Packaging and equipment

The Dremel comes in its original packaging with a picture of the tool and some promotional information.


The main characteristics are drawn on the side of the box.


On the other side of the box is the same print.


Description of accessories from the second side.


Above, only the name of the manufacturer in large


The box contains a set of 30 different abrasive nozzles.


The set is closed with a transparent plastic lid, each nozzle sits in its seat


Here is a closer nozzle. Everyone will find a suitable one.




The length of each nozzle is about 45 mm


Included is a convenient nozzle for vertical milling, with setting the distance of immersion in the material.



They gave us goggles as a gift.


And then in a bag in bulk they put us a lot of adaptations for a home master
Here is all this scattering


Cutting discs


Different size collets, Spare brushes


Polishing felt wheels and original nozzle + special nozzle for fixing wheels


Big set emery wheels two sizes and special nozzles for them



Includes 2 wrenches for tightening nozzles in the chuck


Nozzle for setting cutting wheels.


Brush attachments


Various options for cones



2 drills


The most pleasant accessory for me is the flexible shaft.








It allows you to work without straining, just holding it like a pen.


Appearance
Dremel Made in bright red color.


The sticker shows the model.


There is a special black skirt in order to comfortably hold the dremel tip


Here is the spec sticker. The Dremel has a power of 180W and develops up to 30,000 rpm.

- Here is the speed controller


There is a special bracket for hanging the dremel when working with a flexible shaft


Metal "button" for tightening nozzles in the cartridge.


European fork



To replace the brushes, you don’t have to disassemble the Dremel, there are special 2 compartments for their hot replacement, you just need to wrap 2 covers on the sides



Disassembly






Exploitation

In order to show the "ability" of the dremel, you can come up with a lot of scenarios.
I have 2 cats “on the farm”, or rather a cat and a cat, since we live in the private sector, they are left to their own devices and walk freely on their own. If the cat is not yet very active, then the cat is a real CAT. Can leave for a week, come thin but satisfied. And so that in these spree times his mistress would not add gray hair, I decided to try to make a plate on the collar, on which the nickname and our phone number would be written, if someone finds this beast, when he goes crazy from hormones and cannot return home, they will call "his family." In general, there has already been an attempt at such plates, I ordered from an advertising agency, they were made of plastic and swore that it was of high quality ...
Like these ones


But in fact they served no more than a week and were lost and gnawed.

I got very high quality strips from of stainless steel, 1mm thick.



But the trouble is, I tried to drill a hole, and ... failed, 5 dead drills, from different manufacturers and 0 effect. I thought that here I was waiting for a fiasco. But the dremel pleased.
I loaded the cutting disc, and let's cut :)


Cut out an approximate shape


Ennobled a little


On the other side


I took out the engraving tips from the set and began to try my hand ...


Oh, this is hard work...
It can be seen that clumsily, but this is a test sample.
I still have to drill a hole for the ring from the collar.
It’s unrealistic to do this with just a drill, so at first I shot it with a small cutter. And then, when a tiny hole had already become visible, he “finished off” with a drill. As a result, the drill is killed :)


But the result is achieved, though ugly, but the result.


Here is the disk after all the work, it is clear that once I freaked out and jerked sharply, a triangle broke off from the disk ... in general, ghxyst disks do an excellent job with such a strong stainless steel, with hardened self-tapping screws, but fragile in this direction.




Then I decided to “grind” the surface a little, the nozzle with sandpaper did an excellent job with this.


Then he ennobled a little with a cutter






It took a lot of work to carefully engrave the number on the back, but it didn’t work out to hang the craft on the cat, he hasn’t been at home for half a week ...
After such work, here is the state of the cutting disc.
was

It became

Then I made a small table out of plywood. But there were no suitable screws, they were slightly longer than the thickness of the plywood. I was too lazy to go to the store, the table was not for the exhibition, to help myself.


In the end it looked like this


there is nothing pleasant here, you can easily hurt your hand ...
so a couple of light movements with a dremel with a cutting disc and voila.


Maybe the photo does not convey, but by touch there is no feeling that something is sticking out. Everything is smooth. A self-tapping screw cuts off such a disk in seconds, with a fountain of spray.

And I considered the third option for using it purely in everyday life. The son has Railway". In fact, it is plastic, and in the semaphore zone, the son broke off the plastic lever for stopping the train “on red”, just gluing it did not work ...
The photo was not there screenshots from the video so I hid it under the spoiler

They allow you to perform an impressive range of operations for the processing of materials of various kinds. However, it is impossible to fully realize the potential of such a tool without the appropriate equipment. However, to understand the variety of nozzles for drills is not difficult.

The entire range of equipment for manual drills can be divided into three categories:

  1. Main - designed to work for the intended purpose of the tool.
  2. Additional - expanding the capabilities of the drill.
  3. Other, allowing to increase the convenience of work, to ensure the repeatability and manufacturability of processing.

Each type of equipment has its own characteristics of choice and use, so we will consider them separately.

Basic equipment

The direct purpose of drills is to remove material from small sections of a part according to a complex profile and shape. It can be done different ways, having previously determined the appropriate processing modes. In total, two groups of modes can be distinguished: cutting (milling) and grinding.

Milling attachments

The first and most extensive class of tooling for drills is burrs. various types. All their diversity can be classified according to a number of features, of which the size and shape of the working part are of the most important practical importance. The tip of the bur can have a needle, spherical, disk shape, and also have a flame tongue profile, a cylinder with a straight and rounded end, a straight and reverse cone.

By execution, burrs can be divided into solid carbide, steel (including those with a carbide tip), as well as diamond:

  • Solid carbide burs from tungsten carbide are intended mainly for large material removals, their main working surface is lateral. These cutters are usually large enough and designed to maintain cutting properties for a long time. The large size of the burs allows for a wide variety of flank profiles, which contributes to quality slotting and grooving. For a solid carbide, the notch pattern of the cutting edges, their size, shape and sharpness are extremely important. There are straight, cross and spiral notches, which contribute to the maximum effective removal chips, depending on which part of the cutter is used as a working part and what material is being processed. A separate type of burrs - spear-shaped, serving as a kind of analogue of chisels and single-blade cutters, as well as studded. These are extremely productive tips for deep grooving and edge cutting.

  • Brazed steel burs have a common drawback - poor resistance to lateral loads, which often results in breaking off the working head. The main working surface of such burrs is end, they are designed to form deep grooves and grooves of complex shape. There may be no soldering, which makes such a burr unsuitable for working with dense and hard materials. The main advantage of steel burs is their relatively low cost with high durability; this tool is most often used in the manufacture of parts made of plastic and soft wood.

  • Diamond burs- most universal tool. Thanks to the powder coating, all surfaces of such a nozzle can be equally effectively used as workers. The disadvantage of diamond burs is low productivity at low speeds, as well as relative fragility when processing viscous and melting materials. The scope of diamond burs is the processing of natural and artificial stone, bone and hard steel alloys. The durability of diamond burs is determined by the number of layers of diamond coating (1, 1.5, 2), as well as the degree of coating of the cutting particles with a binder (35-60%).

Most varieties of cutting equipment are of dental origin, and the notation system is also borrowed from there. Burs are distinguished by a colored belt on the clamping part, depending on the fineness of processing. Tungsten carbide burs and green band tips for quick release a large number material. Burs without a color designation, as well as with a yellow and white belt, have 8, 16 and 30 cutting edges, respectively. Color coding also used for diamond burrs: black, green and unmarked tips have correspondingly increasing grit for rough removal, while red, yellow and white have the smallest diamond grain size for fine finishing.

Grinding and polishing

The second type of processing that drills specialize in is abrasive grinding. In part, diamond burrs could also be attributed to grinding equipment, but in reality, during grinding, an active development of the working body occurs, while the powder of the diamond tool practically does not crumble.

Grinding with drills is used on final stages processing and is not designed to remove large portions of material. The features by which grinding equipment is distinguished are the same as for milling cutters: the size and shape of the working part, as well as the cleanliness of processing.

Grinding stones are the most common type of nozzles for rough processing of simple surfaces. Disc stones are used for grinding external surfaces, cylindrical cutters - for internal ones. The color of a stone determines its graininess, but general classification in this matter, no, each manufacturer arbitrarily determines the marking. Nozzles for grinding also exist quite diverse and differ in a number of ways:

  1. Execution integral or on a bar-holder. The fundamental difference is small: replacement stones are simply more profitable for large volumes of work, but at the same time, serious problems with centering can be observed. It is recommended to use rods and nozzles of the same series, since the landing diameters almost always differ.
  2. Type of abrasive. There are abrasive natural stones, electrocorundum and silicon carbide on a polymer bond, as well as fine-grained abrasives bonded with rubber. Each type of abrasive and bond is used exclusively for a limited range of materials specified by the manufacturer.
  3. In terms of size and shape - almost the same situation as with burrs. In this regard, the choice depends solely on the dimensions and type of workpiece. By the way, most stones can be easily edited to give the desired profile.
  4. By the presence of plasticity. Grinding stones can be either completely hard or slightly elastic. The latter property makes it possible to process surfaces with a fine texture, but the microscopic particles of the binder can be strongly packed into the pores of the material being processed.

Also in this category of equipment can be attributed polishing nozzles. These are discs, balls and cylinders made of felt, felt or muslin. Usually polishing tips are interchangeable and are used in conjunction with a landing bar. It is possible to fasten with a screw or on a conical thread - there is no fundamental difference in that. Such nozzles are designed to work with abrasive pastes: dry polishing is also possible, but for materials such as wood, this often results in the appearance of burns.

Additional equipment

Other types of processing tools can also be attached to the holding rods. Basically, such equipment is used for rough and preparatory work. We specifically put this type of nozzles in a separate category: they are completely short-lived and rather belong to the category of consumables.

Cutting and grinding wheels

Cutting and grinding wheels can be mounted on a standard rod with a tightening screw. The latter are often made by hand with round cuts from ordinary abrasive paper. Cutting wheels are arranged on the same principle as angle grinder discs, but most of them do not have a reinforcing cord, which is why they quickly crumble and crumble with strong pressure. Diamond cutting discs are the most durable type of accessories, they are mainly used for cutting stone and other hard infusible materials.

Cylindrical flap-type grinding heads are widely used, as well as cylindrical clamps for abrasive belts. There are also flap discs used for cleaning complex relief surfaces. Metal and polymer-abrasive cutters are especially popular. Disc equipment of this type can also be mounted on rods with screw clamps.

Features of the choice of collets and flexible shaft

All described types of equipment have standard shank diameters of 1.6, 2.35, 3 and 6 mm. Some manufacturers such as Dreamel and Proxxon may have custom shank sizes for some types of nozzles. The problem of incompatibility is solved by selecting collets of the appropriate diameter or adapters. Elongated adapters for dental cutting heads are especially popular. Adapters must be selected for each individual drill, taking into account the diameter of the bore in the spindle.

For greater convenience, flexible shafts can be used to provide access to the working body in hard-to-reach places. Almost all flexible shafts on the market have the same range of characteristics, only the length and diameters of the connections differ. So, the flexible shaft can simultaneously serve as an adapter for a different shank diameter. flexible shafts designed mainly for work with grinding and auxiliary equipment: work with cutters requires a rigid connection with the spindle, while the shaft core has significant radial elasticity.

Other accessories

In conclusion of our review, we will mention some devices whose task is to facilitate the work and further expand the range of capabilities of the tool. First of all, this concerns the vertical feed racks, which allow turning the drill into a small drilling machine.

One of the most popular attachments for drills is the milling support platform. This element must be chosen individually for your drill model, because quite often the pitch and thread density of the tool and equipment do not match. On milling sites, the list of body nozzles is not limited: there are also dust collectors, limiters, various stops and conductors, but their purchase or manufacture is usually associated with the need to perform some complex processing operation.

Some time ago I received a welcome gift - an engraver. Dremel 4000. The box proudly flaunted the inscription "65 nozzles." In fact, about 20 of them turned out to be discs for cutting plastic, so the variety turned out to be not at all what it might seem. Given the completely inhumane pricing policy of this manufacturer and its Russian dealers, I had to surf the Internet. Native nozzles, taking into account the cost of delivery, were catching up with the option “go to Leroy and buy”, besides, the assortment was frustrating. So I had to look towards China. There were a lot of interesting things there.

drilling

The kit included a 3.2 mm collet (and another one that I never used, because there is not a single nozzle in the kit for it). And a drill. The same 3.2 mm. But i.e. we kind of have a tool for fine workmanship and comes with a 3.2mm drill bit. It is a pity that not the eight on concrete.
Cam chuck 4486:

Drills 628 can be inserted into it:

Or use a 3.2mm collet wood drill set:

The cartridge is not a particularly successful design. As far as I understand, the drill is clamped pointwise, the area of ​​the contact spot is small, the revolutions are high, there is a “bounce” of the drill. In addition, there are a lot of reviews on the manufacturer’s website in the style of “out of curiosity, I completely screwed the chuck without a drill, and it no longer wants to spin back.”

What do the Chinese offer?
For example, here are the sets:

Visually, the bounce is imperceptible, brass drills remarkably. How many thousands of holes in PCB can be made by one drill before wear - I don’t know, I haven’t tried it. But if you need to make several (dozens) different small holes - a great option.

I ordered on ebay from seller sz_butterfly - he always has lots with a fixed price and regularly holds auctions with a low starting price (and not 15 times the shipping cost). The plastic box-stand was included.

Engraving

What is regular in stores?
Cutters. A bunch of cutters of the most different sizes and (sort of) appointments. A number of diamond-coated tips. You can open the catalog or the manufacturer's website and look there.

Everything is great, if not for one But- price. For example, such a wonderful Dremel nozzle 7105 (4.4 mm, shank 2.4 mm - the same second collet in the set) costs only 800 rubles for 2 pieces.

What do the Chinese offer?
To begin with, I ordered a set of a variety of diamond-coated drill bits. Just to understand what I need. 180 rubles with delivery:

It turned out to be a great thing. you can draw thin (and not only) lines on metal and glass. Probably plastic too. Something like this:

IMPORTANT!!! When working, be sure to use respiratory protection. I used an ordinary gauze bandage and constantly wiped the product with a wet rag. During operation, quite a lot of well, very fine dust is formed. I doubt that the lungs will be delighted with such a gift.

In my work, I really liked the spherical shape of the nozzle, because it is easiest for it to maintain good work accuracy. So I looked for these Diamond Round Ball Burr Bit Sets:

Or these (300 rubles, free shipping):

Haven't ordered yet. I don't know why I'm dumb.

Literally a month ago, the choice was just that - either you buy native Dremel consumables for 500-1000 rubles a piece, or you order from the Chinese. And 2-3 weeks ago in Leroy (I have one near my office, we regularly go there to look for something tasty) there were also budget consumables for the engraver (for example, mini-sets of diamond drills). So the meaning of waiting for delivery has fallen somewhat.

Offtopic: In addition, canvases appeared there just as suddenly for what the English-speaking Internet calls the oscillating tool, and in our country it is called anything, up to an electric broom

I hope this post will help someone try to do something with their own hands. This is an interesting process.

Offtopic 2: I also faced the problem of finding metal for work. I needed brass. In Moscow, a lot of factories are ready to sell wonderful strips or sheets of brass. From 5000 rubles. Preferably a legal entity. from 10 am to 5 pm. As a result, on the second attempt, I bought what I needed at the non-ferrous metal collection point.

The engraver in its functionality is very similar to conventional drill or grinder, but its main purpose is the processing of parts that differ in miniature size. Using such equipment and special working attachments for the engraver, you can effectively perform various technological operations, including drilling, milling, grinding, engraving, etc.

The list of materials that can be processed with an engraver is also quite extensive. This is soft and malleable wood, hard steel, fragile glass or ceramics, different kinds plastic and even bone. Naturally, for processing various materials with an engraver, different working nozzles are used, which differ from each other both in design and in the material of manufacture.

What are Engraver Attachments?

Working nozzles or tools used to work with an engraver are presented on the modern market in a wide variety. Their design includes two main elements:

  • a shank with which the tool is fixed in the chuck of the equipment used;
  • the working part, which performs the main functions, interacting with the processed material.

The choice of working nozzles for the engraver is influenced by the following factors: the characteristics of the material being processed and the list of technological tasks that need to be performed. Those of the home craftsmen and professionals who work with the engraving machine on a regular basis try to immediately purchase a set of nozzles for the engraver, which includes tools of various sizes and purposes. Depending on the needs and financial capabilities of a particular engraver, this may be a more modest set, including several dozen necessary tools, or a professional set, which contains nozzles for performing various works metal, wood and other materials.

When choosing working tools for the engraver, it should be borne in mind that some of its models can be installed collet chucks suitable for nozzles of only a certain trademark. To use such equipment in a set with any type of nozzles, you will have to purchase universal collets for the engraver, which are also sold in whole sets.

Diamond burs for engraving work

The most popular types of working attachments used to complete engraving machines are diamond engraver burs. The basis of such a tool is made of tool steel, and diamond powder is applied only to their working part. The mechanical characteristics of diamond powder make it possible to successfully use the nozzle for processing such hard materials like steel, ceramics, glass, artificial and natural stones.

Diamond burs (or cutters) are used primarily for finishing curly holes. As a rule, diamond consumables for an engraver are sold in whole sets of 10–20 tools. various forms and standard sizes. When working with them, you should strictly follow the rules for their operation, so as not to damage the diamond coating. IN standard version The shank diameter of diamond type engraving bits is 3mm.

Tools made of abrasive materials

Most budget option for use in conjunction with a drill or engraver are nozzles, the working part of which is made of rubber and abrasive material. Their shank diameter is 2.3 mm, and they are used mainly for metal work, including stainless steel. Abrasive tools are usually sold in sets of 6 pieces and have a different configuration of the working part.

Some manufacturers (in particular, the Fit company) produce abrasive engraving nozzles in various colors, which allows the user to easily determine the category of the tool. So, red abrasive cutters, designed for metal work, are made of aluminum oxide, and green ones, made of silicon carbide, are used for processing stone, glass and ceramic products. For the convenience of performing various technological operations, diamond cutters are made with different shapes of the working part, but their shanks always have the same diameter.

With the help of abrasive nozzles for the engraver, operations such as boring holes, surface grinding, etc. are performed. These nozzles are optimally suited for use at home, for a professional their capabilities will not be enough.

Working attachments for grinding and polishing

The engraving machine, as mentioned above, can be successfully used for fine grinding and polishing of products from various materials. A cutter made of felt is used as a working nozzle for performing such technological operations. Since felt does not have outstanding abrasive qualities, such a tool is used only together with special polishing pastes.

The choice of polishing pastes of a certain type, which, by their characteristics and chemical composition seriously differ from each other, depends primarily on the properties of the material that will be processed with their help. So, grinding hard metal surfaces performed using pastes, which are based on paraffin and polishing powder. For work on wood and glass, special polishing pastes based on diamond powder of various fractions are intended. With their help, you can not only effectively remove scratches from the surface of wood and glass, but also bring the product to a perfectly smooth state. Experts recommend giving preference to those in which the diamond powder has a fraction size of 3/2 and 5/3.

Accessories such as felt grinding tips for working on wood, metal, glass and other materials are successfully used not only in conjunction with a specialized engraving machine: they can be equipped with a dental drill and simple hand-held devices.

Working attachments for professional engravers

A separate category of working nozzles that engravers are equipped with are tools of the professional series. Specialists for whom work on an engraving machine is the main activity, as a rule, have at their disposal a whole set of various nozzles that differ from each other in the material of manufacture, design and shape of the working part. If we talk about the most typical composition of such a set, then it must include:

  • cutters for the engraver of various shapes, sizes and designs;
  • drills that turn the engraving machine into an efficient drill;
  • diamond, abrasive and felt cutters;
  • wire nozzles, with the help of which the treated surfaces are cleaned from traces of corrosion and other contaminants;
  • cutting discs for the engraver, which are quite difficult to purchase individually.

The fact that a specialist using an engraver in his professional activity has such a capacious set of tools is very simple to explain. Often perform high-quality and accurate work the smallest details on the surface of the workpiece does not allow only a milling cutter, a cutting disc for an engraver and other tools of the same size. That is why even within the framework of processing one product, tools often have to be changed, choosing nozzles suitable for performing a particular technological operation.

In addition, if a specialist has a set of tools, which contains drills, cutters, cutting wheels for an engraver and cutters of many other types, it is an indicator of professionalism and indicates that you are an experienced person who knows his business well. Craftsmen who constantly work with engraving devices choose expensive professional series tool kits also for the reason that they can buy individual tools from such kits one by one (in particular, cutting wheel for an engraver) is quite difficult.

Brief overview of brands

Today find on domestic market engravers and working attachments for their equipment does not present any problems. At the same time, the variety of equipment and tools presented in the free sale allows you to choose them according to your needs and financial capabilities.

Professional Grade Attachments

Those masters who are engaged in engraving on wood, metal and other materials on professional level and already have the appropriate equipment at their disposal, you should pay attention to the working nozzles produced under the trademarks "Dremel" and "Dexter". The high cost of such equipment for the engraver is fully justified by its exceptional reliability and durability. Another important advantage What distinguishes the milling cutter, cutting wheel, drill, as well as any other tool of these brands is the high precision of processing.

Having opted for Dremel or Dexter working nozzles, keep in mind that one such tool can last as long as 10 Chinese-made nozzles. In favor of purchasing quite expensive, but high-quality products from well-known manufacturers, the fact that nozzles can be found in the assortment of these companies for various purposes and size. So, it can be various cutters for a drill or engraver, drills of different diameters, disk tools, as well as cutters of any other type, designed to work on wood, metal, ceramics, glass.

Budget models

Cheap, but decent quality nozzles are offered by a domestic manufacturer - the Zubr company. Behind affordable prices you can purchase sets of nozzles, including up to 180 tools of the most popular types, designs, sizes and shapes. These kits contain tools for drilling, cutting discs for a drill or engraver, milling bits, cutters of diamond and abrasive type, and much more.

All nozzles included in the set of the Zubr trademark are placed in a plastic case, which provides convenience for both storage and transportation to the place of work.

Nozzles from Chinese manufacturers

There are two opinions about nozzles made in China. On the one hand, their quality and reliability are in question, on the other hand, they cost much less than branded equipment. A Chinese engraver router bit, cutting disc or drill bit will not last long, but throwing them away, given their cost, will not be so pitiful. If a professional works behind the engraver, then even a cheap Chinese cutter will not prevent him from doing the job efficiently (although he will have to change such a tool more often).

Chinese nozzles for a drill or engraver can be recommended to beginner engravers who can use them to acquire their first skills in this business.

Affordable prices of Chinese nozzles allow novice engravers to purchase large sets "for testing"

Homemade nozzles for engraving machines and drills

For simple engraving work in a home workshop, a cutter, cutting disc, grinding and polishing cutters can be made by hand. As the simplest cutter to equip an engraver or drill, you can use a corrugated wheel from ordinary lighter or a dowel, on the head of which working teeth are cut. It is also quite simple to make a working nozzle for grinding or polishing: for this you can use wooden drum with shank, side surface which is pasted with sandpaper.

Many homemade engraver attachments (if they are used to do not too much complex work) perform well, while the cost of their manufacture is minimal.

An engraver or burr machine is a very necessary and useful thing for those who like to carve wood, stone, metal and so on. But the engraver will fit not only for carving. It can also be a very good help when assembling or repairing something miniature to cut out of metal or plastic. desired part which cannot be cut with scissors. Also, they can grind minerals, or just beautiful stones. There are a lot of nozzles for an engraver: saw blades, grinding discs, stones of various grain sizes, brushes (both simple and metal), felt discs, various cutters for wood and glass, as well as, of course, drills.

Buying such an expensive thing as an engraver is only half the battle (however, making it yourself is also not tricky). During the entire time of use, it is also desirable to update and replenish existing stocks of drills, cutters and other nozzles, which are also not cheap. In any case, they (for some reason!) Are more expensive than consumables and nozzles for the same tool of a standard size. But it is not necessary to buy them all in a row - some nozzles can be quite easily made on your own. Of course, such complex tools as a wood cutter, a drill or a diamond gimlet for engraving on glass are unlikely to be made, but, for example, small files for cutting wood and plastic, grinding and felt discs, you can easily do it yourself.


Even without skills. I think that every person is able to cut the correct circle drawn with a compass on a workpiece with scissors. In addition, some Consumables you will not find in ordinary stores selling this kind of goods. You have to order and wait a long time when they come, and whether they come at all ... And if they do, it’s not a fact that they will turn out to be of high quality and reliable. The sanding discs I recently received in the mail were so fragile that one of them broke with a little pressure... In general, if you want to do something well, do it yourself! Today we are going to look at several options. self-manufacturing stronger tool.

Saw blades for wood and plastic

You will need:
  • A metal circle, or piece of sheet metal, no more than a millimeter thick.
  • Compass and pencil.
  • Scissors.
  • Drill and drills.
  • An emery machine with a cutting disc.
  • Metal bolt with nut children's constructor, or from a prefabricated electrical plug.
First you need to draw a circle on a sheet of metal with a diameter of 3-5 cm. Using a compass and a pencil. I had ready-made metal circles from a chandelier, only with a large hole in the center. In order to fit the hole under a small bolt, we cut out (or take ready-made, if any) two washers so that they cover the hole on the future saw blade. We make a hole for the bolt in the center of each washer, crimp the disk hole on both sides with washers, align it in the center, and tighten it with a bolt and nut.



Next, you need to cut the teeth of the disk.


We make oblique cuts along the entire edge of the disk, 3-4 mm deep, and in 2 mm increments. You can use.




We do the disk for cutting plastic in the same way, repeating the above procedures, with the exception of sharpening the teeth. Here, the cuts should be made at a right angle, two mm deep, and also a step of two mm.


The teeth should be short and wide. This disc can cut plastics of different densities, as well as plexiglass and textolites.

Sanding and felt discs

You will need:
  • A thin grinding disc (you can use it, or even a chip, but not thicker than a millimeter).
  • A piece of felt, 7-10 mm thick (from felt boots - just right).
  • Compass and pencil
  • Metal scissors.
  • Emery machine.
  • Thin bolt with nut.
Here, too, the manufacture is not much different from the first two options. We also draw a circle of 3-5 cm with a compass.



Only it is probably better to cut the felt with a sharp knife, since it is thick enough, and I crushed all my fingers with scissors. And it is better to cut the grinding wheel either with scissors for metal, or on an emery machine with the same cutting wheel. Next, we make holes in the centers of the circles, and tighten them on both sides with bolts and nuts.