These are tips, mainly on choosing a tool, for those who decide to do carpentry “for themselves”. That is, at least for the time being, not to order and sell, but to start making something from furniture or other crafts for an apartment or a summer house.
There are two categories of those who are engaged in wooden craft for the soul: there are those who prefer to work hand tool, and those who work, mainly with modern power tools. The first ones like how shavings flow from under a sharply ground planer, to fit the planks with a nail file and a chisel. One such example is Jimmy Carter. We have great respect for these craftsmen, but we give advice for the second group - those who want to use, first of all, their technical thinking, acquired, possibly in real industrial production, or has an engineering background.
The first question: where to locate the workshop? Reading English-language magazines, we realized that for their craftsmen, the most standard option is to use a garage. In a warm climate, this, of course, does not cause any particular problems, but how to work with us, with frosts under thirty, or even colder. There is an exit. And this advice is suitable, not only for the "city dwellers", but also for those who are going to work in the dacha, which is usually not heated all week. Tip: use . The oven can be purchased at the store, or do it yourself. For example, we purchased a Sibir furnace from the Novosibirsk Metalworking Company with a capacity of 32 kW, this is too much for a garage, you can choose a smaller one for a small room. It cost us about 12 thousand rubles. plus a sandwich pipe that we made ourselves. The oven “eats” all types solid fuel except for coal. Sawdust burns perfectly, the main product of the carpenter's activity :). It is forbidden to use liquid fuel, but our friend in his garage drowns his buleryan exclusively by mining. We flavored the sawdust with working off - there were no problems. You can heat with a cut, which at sawmills is not just given away for nothing, but sometimes they pay extra for export. So the cost of fuel in this case is determined only by transportation costs.
Now about the actual tools. Firstly, if you are going to work seriously, in no case do not purchase multifunctional devices - such as a circular saw, jointer, drill, and the like “in one bottle”. In this case, 99% of your working time will be occupied by changeovers. In addition, the quality of such “combines” is significantly inferior to the quality of the cheapest models of a specialized tool, because. The specialized tool is made under conditions of fiercely competitive manufacturers and is structurally perfected by numerous design and research teams around the world.
Almost all woodworking tools, in fact - milling machines. More or less specialized, but all of them, with a few exceptions (drills, wood lathes, band saws, jigsaws, and maybe some more) are milling machines. Only cutters of various types. electric planer, a circular saw, thickness gauge, actually milling workpieces.
The most versatile and most essential of these tools is the circular saw. To some extent, it can replace other milling power tools: electric planer, jointer and thickness gauge. But it is impossible to replace a circular plane with a planer or thickness gauge.
If you carefully cut, then the workpiece after the circular will only have to be cycled and sanded. Here on our website for the manufacture of paneled doors using only a circular. In any case, the tables, workbenches, racks necessary in the workshop can be made using one circular, gain the necessary experience and then start buying other tools. First of all, it is worth doing, which will greatly expand the possibilities of this powerful tool. A cycle of notes on the use of the circular can be viewed with us.
We recommend taking a circular saw with a circular saw diameter that allows you to cut the workpiece at least 5-6 centimeters. The fact is that if you use a table, and even a sled, in reality, the cutting thickness for a one-time pass will be reduced by a centimeter and a half. True, this thickness can be doubled by making a second pass, turning the blank with the cut up. Well, even greater thickness can be cut if you finish the jumper with a hand saw.
Last but not least, it is worth buying a miter saw - this is the same circular saw, but only specialized. The fact is that cheap trimmings do not give the necessary accuracy - the knot for turning the vertical angle of the cut is too flimsy, so they do not hold the angle well in this place - no matter how you set it up. At the same time, an ordinary circular, built into the table and equipped with the simplest sled, in the form of a sheet of plywood and a stop attached to it, allows us to achieve fantastic accuracy in the angles - it’s just that we didn’t have a tool at our disposal that could detect the error: if for sheet blanks, a meter per meter, cut off at a right angle with the ends shifted, attach a ruler, they do not give even the slightest gap between the ruler and the workpieces.
Therefore, we use our trimming, which we, due to lack of experience and good advice, bought at the very beginning of our work as a carpenter, we use it exclusively to quickly “open” blanks. In general, the tool is useful in some cases, but there is no great need for it.
I’ll immediately answer the question: why waste time on trifles - buy everything that can come in handy. Well, if funds allow you and there is a place where to place all this, we are happy for you. But our advice, first of all, is for those, for example, who have a mortgage for new apartment, and you need to equip a tool with a patch of a standard Soviet garage, but who doesn’t want to inhale the stench of all sorts of formaldehyde from sawdust boards in a new home, from which almost all modern furniture. And we still wonder where the epidemic of cancer and allergies came from, which in the USSR we only learned about from the journal Science and Life and never encountered in everyday life ...
The next necessary tool is, perhaps, a thickness gauge. This is a planing tool, but unlike a planer, it allows you to calibrate workpieces to the desired size.
Here we made a big one ourselves. If we had a thickness gauge, but no planer, it would not be much more difficult to make it. But without a thickness gauge, having a planer / jointer, it would be much more difficult to make it, and with the skills that we had at that time, we generally undertook to do it.
By the way:- Beekeepers often start carpentry when they think. Buying such a hive is very expensive, with a hive tool you can do a lot.
1. Mood matters
Do not enter the workshop if you are tired, in a bad mood, or if your thoughts are busy with other things. At best, your carpentry success will not be impressive, and at worst, it may end in injury.
2. Eyes, ears and lungs need protection
Always wear eye and ear protection with a noise reduction rating (NKK) of at least 22dB when operating machinery and power tools. A dust mask is better than nothing, but an N95 rated respirator is preferred. When working with painting equipment, the respirator must be rated N95 or N99.
3. Get help from others
Most carpenters are willing to share their experience and give advice. A few minutes spent talking with a fellow carpenter or just a neighbor, and a complex process will turn out to be simple and enjoyable. You can also seek help from the online forum community.
4. Restock
Always keep a sufficient supply of essentials in the workshop, including masking tape, double-sided tape, hand cleaning paste, tweezers with a magnifying glass, a first aid kit, and a fire extinguisher.
5. Don't get too organized
Buy or make your own cabinets, shelves and trays to suit your needs. When everything is in order, the work will be contentious and enjoyable, and you will spend less time looking for tools and supplies.
6. Spare
When sawing out lethals for the next project, make a few extra ones and use them to check and tune the equipment. Leftover scraps can be used to test stains and other finishes to get an accurate idea of how they will look on the finished product.
7. Don't save every penny
Thrift is a good habit, but you should not overstep the line of reason. Wood is a renewable natural resource, and if you accidentally ruin a piece, you can buy a new gloss. Sandpaper wears out in 5-10 minutes. Glue has a limited shelf life (usually a goal or two). Banks with paintwork materials, on the surface of which a dense crust has formed, should be discarded.
Related article: 8. Life is too short to put up with a bad workbench
Whether you're buying a pre-made workbench or making your own, make sure it's hard enough, has a level work surface and at least one powerful vise.
9. Don't expect perfect results.
The desire to create a project without a single flaw can "unsettle you", because it is almost impossible to do so. So don't worry too much about the mistakes you will inevitably make. Instead, learn to eliminate them and prevent them from appearing in the future.
10. Take the time to prepare
Sometimes it's worth spending an hour or two crafting a special tool to perform an operation that takes five seconds. Devices provide safety, accuracy and repeatability of the actions performed.
11. The appearance of the product is more important than the waste of material
Mark the position of the workpieces to be cut with chalk on boards and sheets in order to rationally use the material. However, sometimes it is better to cut in such a way as to eliminate defective areas and to benefit from a spectacular texture pattern or color. When purchasing lumber, plan to lose 10-20% as waste.
12. Adhesive + smooth surface = strong bonding
Forget the once common opinion that roughness is needed for good gluing. Smooth surfaces stick together better than rough surfaces. Take the time to make the mating surfaces of the parts smooth and tight against each other. Remember that glue does not adhere to burnt surfaces, so avoid them.
13. How to avoid chips - two simple means help with cracks
Chips can irreparably damage the workpiece. To prevent their occurrence, support the workpiece with reverse side using appropriate aids. Purchase or make your own splinter liners for circular saw, tape and miter saw(test miter saw below), drill press. Attach a piece of wood to the corner stop to prevent chipping on the back edge of the workpiece. When milling, also support the exit point of the cutter from the workpiece using a suitable offcut.
Make special anti-splinter liners for different angles of inclination saw blade and machine settings, for example for sawing bevels and grooves.
14. How to process rough boards - the correct procedure
Here's how to process unplaned material to get the right shape.
- Cut the blanks with a length allowance of at least 6 mm, while getting rid of the end cracks.
- Plane one face on a planer.
- On a thicknesser, make the other face parallel to the first and cut the workpiece to the final thickness, removing the same amount of material from both sides.
- Work one edge on the planer, making it perpendicular to the face.
- Sawing the workpiece to the final width on a circular saw.
- Cut the workpiece to the final length.
15. Nothing replaces accurate markup
Neither glue nor putty will help save a weakened connection. Therefore, get high-quality marking tools - a combined square, a steel ruler, a marking knife and a thicknesser - and learn how to work with them.
16. Don't process artificial materials on planing machines
Composite materials such as plywood, chipboard and MDF due to high content adhesives dull the knives of planer and planer machines much faster than wood.
17. Templates guarantee fast and accurate results
When you need to make several identical parts with cutouts or curved contours, you can speed up work and achieve accuracy by sawing them in a bag and processing them according to a template on a milling table.
Fasten several blanks with double-sided tape. The rod stop will help to keep the package at the beginning of the passage.
18. Assembly first, then glue
Always dry assemble before applying adhesive. You don't want to find ill-fitted joints or irregularities after the adhesive has been applied.
19. Pre-sanding pays off.
Before assembly, finish sanding as much as possible. more details, especially their internal surfaces, access to which after assembly will be difficult.
20. Don't be picky about clamps
Most of us hardly need anything more sophisticated than inexpensive, time-tested pipe clamps. Stock up on sets of clamps 30 long; 60; 90 and 120 cm, four pieces of each size. To get longer clamps, connect them to each other with couplings or buy longer pieces of pipe and simply rearrange the clamps between them. Add to that some handy "one-handed" clamps (such as the Quick-Grip) in 15 and 30 cm lengths. Purchase other clamps only as needed.
21. Install hardware, then remove and reinstall
Before applying a stain or clear coat, assemble the product and install the metal parts to make sure everything works as it should. Then remove all the hardware, apply the finish and reinstall the hardware. This ensures that the coating is applied to all surfaces of the product, except for metal parts.
22. "Almost right" angle means not square
When assembling products with right angles, it is important to achieve perfect squareness, especially if given subject has inset doors or drawers. Therefore, buy or make mounting brackets that ensure a neat assembly. Without them, you are doomed to fixing bugs for the rest of the project.
23. Know about wood and how to saw it
Check out the most common tree species(especially those growing in your area). This will help set your “inner radar” to look for great deals. You can save money by purchasing unedged boards at local sawmills and lumber depots. First, learn to distinguish between sawing methods. Radial sawn boards are the most expensive, but at the same time they are resistant to warping and produce the least waste. Tangential sawn boards, on the other hand, are cheaper, but tend to warp and generate more waste. Mixed sawn lumber is intermediate between the two types described.
radial cut
tangential sawing
mixed cut
24. Wood changes dimensions - keep this in mind!
Seasonal fluctuations in air humidity cause shrinkage and swelling of wood. Changes in size mainly occur in the direction across the fibers, and only slightly along them. Keep this in mind when creating products, otherwise the parts will crack, the joints will fall apart, and the moving parts will jam. These problems can be minimized by allowing the materials to adapt to the humidity in your workshop by allowing them to sit for a few days before going to work.
Even when the moisture content of wood reaches a stable level, the same as in environment, the tree is still changing its size due to seasonal fluctuations in humidity.
25. Learn the real meaning of the concept of "cubic capacity"
Outside hypermarkets, a flail for wood is installed outside cubic meter(a unit of volume equivalent to a dense stack measuring 1x1x1m). Measurements are made as follows: the thickness of the board is multiplied by the width and length, expressed in meters. For example, the volume of one board 50x150x6000 mm is 0.05x0.15x6=0.045 m 3 . There will be 22 such boards in one cubic meter (1: 0.045 = 22.2).
26. Sharp means safe
Dull knives and chisels require more effort when cutting wood. Increasing the force makes it more likely that the tool will slip or you will lose control of it, and this often leads to injury. So sharpen your hand tools regularly.
27. Know when to spend and when to save
Buy high-quality machines and tools if you intend to use them for decades (milling cutter, circular saw and thicknesser machines). Equipment that is used only occasionally (oscillating and belt sanders, pneumatic stapler) does not have to be expensive.
Steel tools rust. Learn how to remove and prevent rust, especially if you live in a high humidity environment. Put aside homemade recipes and try one of the tried and true rust fighting products, such as Empire Top Saver Rust Remover and Protector, Boeshield Rust-Free Rust Remover, Boeshield T-9 Protector.
29. Thickening will not flatten boards.
Planer makes two planes of the board parallel, but it is not able to eliminate the buckling or helical twisting (wingedness). First you need to process one face of the board on a planer, so you should have both of these machines. The cost will pay off in savings due to the ability to work with cheap unplaned boards.
30. Hand tools can sometimes work faster than electric ones.
Let's just give two examples. Chamfering with a small one usually takes less time than installing a cutter and setting up a router. Good hacksaw will allow you to cut a ledge on a tenon in semi-darkness faster than a saw machine.
31. Improved filter for dust extraction system requires additional cost
When purchasing a chip blower, remember that the degree of filtration is just as important (if not more important) than the air flow (l/min) developed or the engine power. Most chip blowers come with a standard 30 micron filter, which puts a lot of dust back into the air you breathe. Purchase a filter with a purification rate of no more than 5 microns, and if possible, then 1 or 2 microns.
32. Buying a router in a set is profitable
If you can afford only one router, choose a medium power model (1300 to 1700 W) as part of a set that includes a plunge base and a fixed base. Install the fixed base in the router table, and for manual milling, move the electric motor to the plunge base.
33. Both inexpensive and high quality cutters have their uses.
Large sets of cutters, in which the cost of one cutter is $ 1-2, it makes sense to buy if you use them infrequently. Those cutters that you use constantly (mostly rounding, copying, straight, helical, chamfering and rebate cutters) are better to buy separately, without being stingy. They cut cleaner, stay sharp longer and last longer.
34. Machine tools need care too
Almost any new machine needs to be adjusted to achieve high accuracy. During routine maintenance, check (and correct if necessary) the settings you have made from time to time. So, the slots for the angle stop and the parallel stop of the saw machine must be set parallel to the saw blade. This will ensure the accuracy and safety of sawing.
To set the saw table parallel to the blade, use a dial indicator or a combination square. The table is set correctly if the measurements at the front and rear edges of the disc are the same.
35. Oily materials can cause a fire
Rags and brushes impregnated with stain or varnish on oil based, may ignite if left lying in a bag or thrown away when damp. Hang them up separately and let dry before getting rid of them.
36. Finish panels before assembly to avoid shrinkage problems
Door or side paneling of cabinets made of solid wood should be painted and finished prior to assembly. In this case, with the inevitable drying of the panel, its unfinished edges will not be exposed.
37. When spraying, remove back wall
When applying a coating from a spray gun to a body with a back wall installed, excess composition (overspray) will fly off from it right in your face - an unpleasant prospect. Instead, remove the back wall and paint it separately.
38. Hand grinding provide a better look
Despite the big final stage should be sanded by hand in the direction along the fibers to eliminate transverse scratch marks.
39. Find best way finishes
It is not necessary to master the technologies of applying all existing types coatings. Find one or two finishes that work for you (say, an oil-based finish for items that are rarely handled, and polyurethane for items that need to be reliable protection) and learn how to use them.
40. Additional grinding will help to avoid darkening of the ends
Sand the visible end cuts with sandpaper one number higher than the face and edges. In this case, the ends will absorb less stain and will better match the color of the entire product.
41 Products to be stained need additional polishing
When sanding planed parts, start with 120 grit sandpaper, then move on to 150 and 180 grit abrasives. If you are going to apply oil or clear varnish, stop after sanding number 180. However, if you will be tinting the product, sand it with sandpaper up to 220 grit to remove small scratches, which will appear after applying the dye.
42. See the marks of the cutting tool in time
Poorly visible in natural light traces left by cutting tools(seizures, ripples and steps after processing in a thicknesser machine), can hide on front sides of your product while waiting for the finish to be applied. To identify them, inspect the parts under oblique lighting, and if defects are found, remove them using sandpaper, planer or cycle.
Based on materials from the magazine for artisans “Wood Master” (excellent edition)
Practice: BOSCH GCM 12 GDL miter saw test (not advertising)
The miter saw, which we mentioned above, mentioning the fight against chipping when processing a part, is convenient and effective when performing both small and large amounts of work due to operational preparation and quick readjustment of the saw blade angles. Cutting accuracy and cut quality ensure that the task is completed the first time without rework, that is, without wasting time and material.
The package includes the GCM 12 GDL Professional miter saw itself with a mounted saw blade, a handle for fixing the angle of rotation of the bed, a clamp for clamping the workpiece, a dust bag and two hex keys. If you need to cut aluminum parts, you should additionally purchase special saw blades with a trapezoidal tooth sharpening.
PREPARATION
The stage did not take long. A sturdy kitchen table was used as a workbench. We securely attached the saw to its cover with four M8 bolts. The next step is to install a handle that fixes the angle of rotation of the bed. A special bag was put on the suction pipe to collect dust. To fix the workpiece, a clamp with a screw fastening is used. It's good that the designers provided for bed extensions. It was thanks to their extreme position that it was possible to securely fix the workpiece, although it was long.
We calculated the connection angles of the rafter elements in advance, and now it only remained to accurately set them on the calibration limb. By turning the working bed, we set the first corner and fixed it.
On the workpiece of the truss element, the marks of the beginning of the cut were already applied. The workpiece was placed on the bed and pre-fixed it. After that, the mechanism of spatial movement of the working body was unlocked. By moving the locking lever, the saw blade was lowered onto the workpiece and, loosening the fastening of the latter and moving it, aligned the saw teeth with the mark. It remains to connect the saw to the network and turn on the start button
The very first sawing pleasantly surprised me with the ease of the process and the high quality of the cut. Advancing the saw bottom requires almost no effort. The lever mechanism for moving the working tool is compact and really easy to use. Changing the sawing angle was quick and easy. There was no change in the cutting angle during sawing - the subsequent assembly of the rafters showed a high accuracy in the execution of the cutting angle of each element, which significantly reduced the time for their final assembly.
Saw control in literally concentrated at hand: the lock of the selected angle of inclination of the saw blade is on the ledge of the bed on the left, the angle of rotation lock is on the right, and the accidental movement lock button is in the center.
A double laser marker is convenient - the lines show the actual width of the cut, and not its middle. This allows you to more accurately cut, which is also very important. In general, working with this tool is a pleasure. The movement is easy, smooth, without jamming, the fixed parts are rigid, the graduation scales are easy to read, the standard blade cuts very accurately. However, the absence of a button to block accidental engine start requires special attention, especially in the process of mastering the novelty. It should also be borne in mind that at the maximum cutting angles at the end of the process, the moving part of the saw may touch the arm lock lever or the clamp post.
How to check the quality of lumber and choose a quality one? A few tips.
Procurers saw each log in such a way as to obtain from it maximum amount boards or beams, which are quite different in quality.
Good lumber has fewer knots and less chance of warping.
IN good boards for the manufacture of flooring, wood fibers are usually parallel to the surface of the board or at an angle to the surface up to 45 ° (Fig. 2). Lumber with a transverse arrangement of wood fibers to the surface of the board is a low grade of construction wood.
When making flooring, try to lay the boards up with the side that is closer to the bark of the tree.
Otherwise, the edges of the board will rise when warping, and it will accumulate even more water, which will lead to rotting of the wood.
Construction timber can be fresh or dried. Lumber dried in special ovens is much more expensive than fresh lumber, and wooden structure over time, it will dry out on the street on its own.
When choosing blanks, make sure that they do not have longitudinal and transverse cracks, delamination and splits of wood.
These defects not only weaken the load-bearing capacity of the boards, but also make them unsightly, and can also cause dangerous splinters.
Also try to avoid buying lumber that is warped, warped, or twisted.
Rice. 2. Lumber blanks and defects: 1 - wood fibers are parallel to the board face; 2-wood fibers are located at an angle to the board face; 3-wood fibers are located across the surface of the board; 4 - cracks; 5 - stratification of wood; 6 - splits in the workpiece; 7 - board warping; 8 - twisting the board; 9.10 - curvature of the board relative to different axes. CONVENIENT DEVICE FOR FOLDING CLOTHES To ... How and how to protect overhangs ...
Our portal has already talked about what opportunities open up for a home craftsman who decides to make furniture on his own. In the article you can read about the basic principles and "tricks" used by professional carpenters and the right master cabinetmakers.
In continuation of the topic, in this article we talk about what tools a novice carpenter needs, and which of the popular sets should be purchased “for growth”.
- Where to start choosing a tool for making furniture;
- Is it possible to do quality furniture without special tool;
- What is the minimum set of good hand tools needed for a beginner carpenter. Our rating;
- How to choose power tools for the workshop;
- What power tools do professional cabinet makers use. The best tool from a professional point of view;
- How to approach the arrangement of a furniture workshop;
- What is the difference between jointer and planer.
How to approach the choice of carpentry tools
A firm decision was made to self-manufacturing furniture. However, one desire is not enough - you need an appropriate tool. This is where the main "pitfall" lies.
Many novice craftsmen believe that it is impossible to make high-quality furniture without a large assortment of expensive and professional tools. The result of this popular approach is well known. A beginner either does not dare to start working, believing that “without this device I will not succeed”, or falls into the other extreme - he “runs” around the shops, buying the best tool, not even understanding whether he needs one or the other, and how to use it.
However, on initial stage it is quite possible to get by with a minimum set of reliable amateur-level tools. The main thing is to give yourself the opportunity to consciously approach the choice, guided by the principle: buy tools for the carpentry workshop as needed.
A good example of this approach is a bed made by the spouse of a member of our portal with the nickname Regina Peter.
Regina Peter FORUMHOUSE user
My husband and I moved to the countryside for permanent residence. We needed a double bed. The husband decided to make it by all means himself, although before that he didn’t even hold a small hammer in his hands, and didn’t make anything at all. My husband told me his vision, and I drew a bed in a special program. As a result, we settled on this option.
The boards and balusters that went to the legs of the bed were bought from a nearby building materials store. The work began to boil, and this is what the novice master ended up with.
The most interesting thing is that this proper bed was made with a minimal set of hand tools, and all the details were cut out with a reliable garden saw “taken away” from his wife!
Regina Peter
It was possible to buy a ready-made bed in a store, but the pleasure of work, and most importantly, the end result, cannot be compared with anything. The husband, as they say, got a taste, continued to work as a carpenter and after the bed made an insulated front door and then the table.
Conclusion: you need to start making furniture from manufacturing simple products, which require the most elementary reliable tools: stools, simple beds, simple tables, shelves, etc. And only after the passage of time, with the growth of skill, you can think about acquiring an expensive and professional tool. This is the only way to ensure that the purchase will be in demand, and will not be a waste of money.
In "furniture carpentry" the main thing is to "feel" the tree, learn how to use the tool, understand whether you like this business. Only in this case you will create products that will become your pride.
You should also figure out in advance what kind of furniture you will make, cabinet - cabinets, or whole kitchen sets etc., or soft - sofas, armchairs. Or the soul lies more in solid furniture of the author's work, with an abundance of complex figured and carved elements. Each direction requires its own, specific tool, but you need to start with the formation of a basic and universal set.
The most popular tools for the home carpenter.
Wood carpentry tool
To make things easier for you, all essential tool can be divided into three large groups:
- Hand tool;
- Tooling and Consumables;
- Power tool.
Let's take a closer look at each of these groups.
Hand tools include:
- Hand saw for wood and metal;
- hand planers and jointers;
- Manual jigsaw;
- A set of chisels for wood;
- Iron nail hammer;
- Mallet with a rubber or wooden striker;
- Furniture stapler;
- Pliers;
- Shoe knife;
- Awl;
- adjustable wrench;
- A set of screwdrivers with a straight or Phillips edge;
- wire cutters.
Equipment and consumables:
- Vice for a workbench;
- Clamps. They act as a "third hand", allowing you to fix the details during processing or gluing;
- Pencil and marker;
- Forstner drill. They are used for drilling non-through holes with a flat bottom (for internal hinges) in wood and board materials: chipboard, MDF, etc. Due to their design, these drills do not tear wood fibers, leaving behind smooth surface;
- Ring crowns for wood. Used for cutting through round hole large diameter (20-130 mm) in wood, chipboard sheets etc;
- Drills for metal with a diameter of 2 to 10 mm, in increments of 0.5 to 1 mm;
- Drills with a hard-alloy tip. Used for drilling concrete to hang shelves, etc.;
- Screwdriver bit set;
- A set of drills for wood, with a diameter of 2 to 12 mm.
The measuring tool should be singled out in a separate group.
This includes:
- Roulette length from 3 to 5 meters;
- Metal ruler from 50 to 100 cm long;
- Metal square with a side of 30 cm;
- Level 50-60 cm long.
Complementing this set with just an impact drill and a screwdriver, a person with “hands” can do a lot. In addition to the manufacture of furniture, these tools can be used for any repairs in the house or in the country.
Also, do not forget about the need for a workbench, because. it is impossible to work normally "on the knee" and get a quality product.
Sitnikoff FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.
A furniture workshop is unthinkable without a workbench. I made my first workbench from a 100x50 mm board. The boards were "junk" - left over from waste at a construction site. Therefore, the workbench turned out to be not the most successful, but it still serves me as an assembly table.
Choosing a power tool for a carpentry workshop
If there are usually no problems with choosing a hand tool, then when it comes to choosing a power tool, a lot of questions arise. Therefore, it is important to make a basic list of the essentials.
To the so-called. basic power tools, without which it is impossible or difficult to make furniture, include:
- Electric drill;
- Electric screwdriver;
- Electric jigsaw;
- Belt grinder.
This set is enough to start making, albeit not the most complex, but high-quality products. In the future, with the growth of skill and the complexity of the work, the list best tools will be replenished.
When choosing a power tool for a novice master, the main thing is not to go to extremes, buying only the cheapest models or chasing expensive professional products from one high-quality manufacturer. It is worth adhering to the golden mean "price / quality" and choosing a tool not for its cost, but one that will be convenient for you to use.
Novice carpenters often have a question: are power tools such as milling machine, jointer, thickness gauge, circular electric saws and at what stage they need to be purchased and what to be guided by when buying, except for the price.
Archimed FORUMHOUSE user
I thought about equipping my workshop. I need to process boards for wall cladding, and in the future I plan to make furniture. With a good hand tool, everything is clear, but there are many questions about the use of an electric one, and you need to “get into the budget”. I need expert advice on what to buy, what I need in the future. So far my rating is:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- grinder;
- jigsaw;
- electric planer;
- circular saw;
- manual frezer;
- thicknesser machine.
Topic created archimed, provoked a wide response. Many professional craftsmen offered their options for completing the workshop.
Sitnikoff FORUMHOUSE user
When I first started carpentry, I needed to make a simple workbench, and I only had: a bow saw, a drill, an old planer, a few chisels, Forstner drills and a shoe knife. All. But I made a workbench. Now, after 10 years of carpentry, my rating of the best tools is as follows:
- Milling table with milling cutter;
- Manual frezer;
- Belt and eccentric grinder;
- Miter saw;
- Table circular saw;
- Several electric planes;
- Electric jigsaw, electric drills and screwdrivers;
- Dust removal system;
- Grinder;
- Compressor for a carpentry workshop with a spray gun;
- Planer machine.
This is not the whole list of power tools. Plus, I had to pick up a lot of hand tools.
Moreover, Sitnikoff does not plan to stop there and is thinking of acquiring:
- jointer;
- band saw;
- drilling machine;
- wood lathe;
- Install a chip removal and air ventilation system.
Summarizing
Answering the question asked Archimed-m, we can say that a possible set of tools for a furniture maker is directly proportional to his budget, the planned volume and complexity of work, and, importantly, the area of \u200b\u200bthe workshop. After all, the entire tool will have to be placed somewhere - so that it is convenient to use, and access to it is safe, not limited or difficult.
You can make furniture, working in a limited area, in an apartment, on a balcony, in a corridor. But any master sooner or later comes to the need to build his own workshop. Moreover, a well-planned workshop, with communications connected, well insulated, in which you can work all year round, regardless of weather conditions and daylight hours.
To have a guide to the future and understand what you need to equip a furniture workshop "for growth", you can use the following list. This:
- Stationary circular saw and milling machine;
- Miter saw;
- Circular plunge-cut saw with guide rail;
- Band-saw;
- thicknessing machine;
- Stationary jointer.
On the last two machines, attention should be focused, because. sometimes novice carpenters get confused about their purpose.
With a jointer, the knife shaft is located in the table, i.e. below, so this machine sets a flat plane - the "base". Planer, unlike the thickness gauge, does not make the workpiece of the same thickness.
At the thickness gauge, the knife is located on top, so this machine makes a plane parallel to the “base”. If you run a workpiece with a “screw” or “hump” into the thickness gauge, then at the output we will get a planed curved workpiece.
Therefore, first we set the workpiece to a plane (we make a “base”), removing the “screw” or “saber” with a jointer, then we plan the workpiece to a given thickness with a thickness gauge.
Conclusion: it is necessary to acquire an expensive, complex, professional tool not “in reserve”, but only after moving to a new stage in your development as a master. In other words, you buy this or that tool only when you realize that your carpentry workshop is already a small workshop and you cannot make any furniture parts without it.
When working with power tools and machines, safety precautions must be observed. Namely: put on goggles and tight clothes, fasten your sleeves, put your hair under your headgear for reliability. In the carpentry workshop, in a conspicuous place, there must be a first aid kit.
And what should be the workplace of a cabinet maker.
as my teacher used to say in my childhood, you need to start with
tool, but better with tool box and workbench.
Woodworking: The process of making something using wood.
Most beekeepers become carpenters or use their services.
The craftsmanship of woodworking is one of the most ancient and widespread types of human activity. Ever since ancient times, when a person was just beginning to learn all the possibilities of using wood, he was already associated with this material in all its forms and forms. The growth and development of mankind was closely intertwined with the possibility of developing the art of woodworking and the growth of opportunities for using wood.
Already at the beginning of time, wood was used mainly as a material for building housing, making tools, weapons, utensils and other items necessary for life. With the development of mankind, wood began to be used to create luxury items and decorations. Rafts and all kinds of ships began to be built. This greatly accelerated the development of new lands.
With the growth of skill and knowledge about the properties of wood, this material has become almost everywhere one of the main materials used in all areas of human activity. Those who showed talent when working with wood became respected artisans and artisans. To unite and protect their interests, workshops and guilds of joiners and carpenters were created. To preserve the acquired skills and knowledge, they began to recruit students and apprentices for training. Experience and skill began to be passed down from generation to generation.
Among the masters of woodworking, their own specialists began to stand out, each with his own tool, projects and secrets of woodworking. Here are just a few of them:
Wheel master - a carpenter for the manufacture of wooden wheels and spokes.
Bondar is a craftsman who makes barrels, tubs and other assembled utensils.
A wood carver is almost an artist who can create a masterpiece from a piece of wood with a chisel.
wood turner - lathe and cutters, that's all the master needs to make round and symmetrical products, such as legs for chairs and tables, candlesticks, balusters, chiseled wooden utensils.
Carpenter - master wooden construction. He must know everything about the tree and be able to make everything that a person needs for living from it.
Cabinetmaker - expensive furniture was made mainly of mahogany, so furniture makers began to be called cabinetmakers.
Shipbuilder - earlier all ships were built of wood, but even now this profession is needed - boats, boats and yachts are sometimes built from wood.
Parquet flooring - creates wooden floors from stacked parquet, combining colors and textures of different types of wood.
To work, a carpenter needs a board; you can buy it or cut it yourself.
can be sawed makeshift sawmills like that
or more professionally with modern sawmills
In our time, some of these professions have become rare, but they can never completely disappear. Although steel, plastic, concrete and other materials have largely replaced wood, a person will never completely part with a tree. Wood products always look livelier, warmer and more attractive to us. No one will put a plastic sculpture in a museum, but a wooden sculpture exists independently as an art form.
Wood is used in many areas of our life, including residential and industrial construction, furniture manufacturing. Much application wooden products invoked not only practical considerations but mostly pleasure appearance, the traditions of our society and pride in the beauty of our home.
For many, even today, working with wood provides a livelihood. But more and more more people are engaged various types working with wood while relaxing, it brings them joy and pleasure, it becomes a rest for the soul, their useful hobby.
Like this!!!
it's also made of wood
In addition to this, in our time, tools, technologies and devices have reached a new level of development, have become more sophisticated. A novice joiner or carpenter will be amazed by the huge selection of tools and fixtures for their business.
An experienced carpenter recognizes that his skill is the result years of experience and long learning curve. Knowledge and experience are needed in order to create a beautiful box, a table decorated with carvings, to build a beautiful house.
However, not knowing where to start a project, what to focus on, discourages many beginner carpenters
and carpenters, they quickly lose interest and give up this business, believing that it is not for them. On the other hand, starting a project that is too complex with not quite the right tool, the novice master comes to the same conclusion - this is not his business and goes into another type of activity.
Luckily, tips and tricks experienced craftsman on wood will help the novice carpenter in his endeavors. In order to provide ourselves with comprehensive knowledge of woodworking, we must work hard, consult with specialists, learn from them the intricacies of working with wood, take everything useful from their many years of experience.
you can watch a movie how to make a door
There will be a board, you can do carpentry, but you need to saw it somehow
You need to start with the main types of woodworking, using the main types of tools. Don't start with too complex projects. From simple to complex - this should be your rule. Strong knowledge of different breeds wood, the ability to work with the main types of tools, compliance with all safety rules - all this will lead you to success in this business.
Most of my acquaintances in the past were carpenters, then they began to make beehives.
and engage in beekeeping.
Rules for successful tree work
1. Take your time
Don't waste your time and nerves trying to salvage damaged parts if they are smaller than required, or if your equipment does not allow us to repeat our actions. You can avoid problems by carefully studying the list of materials for which blanks are cut with an allowance. If you want to use other fittings in the project, be prepared to make changes to the design of the product. In any case, if you plan to use the recommended fittings or replace them to your liking, purchase them before starting work on the project.
2. Prepare materials
If you need straight and flat parts (for example, for a frame or a shield), cut all the boards on one side, and then pass them through a thicknesser. The planer aligns and flattens one face of the board, and after processing on the planer, the opposite face becomes parallel to the first and also aligns. Before parts are made and assembled, calibrate all workpieces for thickness without changing the thicknesser settings.
3. Pick a texture pattern
Beginners usually don't care about the texture pattern and consider all boards to be of equal value, but the expert can better bring out the properties of each board. Choose planks with an interesting pattern for an eye-catching lid or door panel. Set aside separate straight-layer boards for panel blanks and frame parts. Before gluing the shield, take some time to select the best combination plots, in which the pattern of neighboring parts coincides, and the joints become less noticeable.
4. Leave a small allowance in width
When sawing boards lengthwise into individual parts, leave an allowance of about 1 mm in width. To bring the width to the final, make one or two light passes on planer to remove sawing marks.
Before cutting seams or grooves for inserting plywood panels or other sheet materials, double check the thickness of the final sanded parts and make trial cuts on the offcuts. Do not trust factory labels and stamps too much - the actual thickness of the material may differ from the declared one.
6. Start with stops
In most projects, two or more parts of the same length or multiple parts of the same length need to be made. To be sure to achieve an exact match, use the simplest stops. In many cases, it is sufficient to clamp a piece of a bar or board with a clamp on a parallel or angular stop of a saw machine, miter saw or milling table as shown in the photo.
Do not postpone grinding and tinting of individual parts until the end of the assembly of the product. For example, it is better to polish inner edges frame and profile part of the panel before proceeding with the assembly of the door. If you are going to tint the product, apply stain to the panel before assembly to prevent the appearance of unpainted stripes if the panel subsequently dries.
8. Check dry assembly
Avoid the daunting disappointment when, in the middle of a complex assembly process, two pieces don't fit together. Check each connection immediately after it is made. Then assemble the whole product, fixing the parts only with clamps. If this is inconvenient, then assemble dry and then glue the individual assemblies and fit them to fit for the final assembly.
If you and all joints are stained with squeezed out glue, then you are applying too much glue. Lubricate with a thin layer of glue only one of the parts of each connection. When applying the optimal amount of glue, it is only slightly squeezed out of the joint in the form of small droplets or a thin roller after compression with clamps. After about half an hour, when the glue begins to dry out, becoming rubbery, remove the excess with a paint scraper. Clean the scraper frequently with a paper towel to avoid smearing adhesive on the surface of the product.
10. Be patient
At a temperature of +20 °C, a joint glued with carpentry glue requires an hour of holding in a clamped state and another day to achieve maximum bonding strength. But if you are working in a cold garage, you should double the holding time in the clamps for every 10° below +20°C. Although modern glue can work at temperatures around +5 ° C, the temperature of the wood is more important than the air temperature. If the boards have been lying in the cold all night, do not rely on them to quickly warm up to optimum temperature using a heater.
