You've finally decided to make your first folding knife. This is right. In any case, this gives me great pleasure, and the result inspires new creativity. Give it a try. You won't regret it anyway. Someone smart once said: “it’s better to do it and then regret it than to regret not doing it.”
Since you have already made up your mind, it means you have some design ideas. Let's assume that you have chosen a lock (Liner Lock), and this is one of the best knife locks. If not the best. It contains a minimum of parts, which means it has maximum reliability.
A little history. The modern linear lock was invented by Michael Walker in 1981. The most important thing that Michael did was create an independent blade fixation system that has only one spring. The lock's leaf spring not only locks the blade in the open position, but also ensures its secure fixation in the closed position.
In addition, this lock allows you to open and close the folding knife with one hand. This invention in the full sense of the word changed the face of the modern folding knife. Honor and praise to him for this.
Make a sketch of the future design on paper or in some graphics editor. For example, it turned out like this:
First of all, choose your materials. It is preferable for a blade, since if moisture gets inside a folding knife, the moisture is not so easy to remove. Therefore, if there is something to rust, it will rust. If there is a thermal operator capable of working with high-carbon alloyed stainless steels, then you are very lucky in life (at the level of happiness).
If not, you will have to work on hardened material, and this is not easy. To drill holes in hardened metal, I use ceramic and glass drills with an arrowhead tip. You need to work hard, at low speeds, but carefully. You can chip the drill. And, of course, monitor the heating of the part. Be sure to refrigerate frequently, otherwise it will release.
Give the required form blade. I have used blades from Tramontina Professional Master series knives several times. They are a little more expensive than regular kitchen appliances from this company, but they are made from Sandvik 12C27 or 1.4110 from Krupa. This is good steel.
For folding knife dies, I recommend titanium. Despite its small thickness, it is quite strong and has sufficient rigidity and springing properties. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not rust at all. There are some peculiarities in titanium processing.
Titanium should be worked at low speeds. For example, I couldn’t cut a 4 mm plate with a grinder, but I could easily cut it with a hacksaw for metal, although it took a long time. The thread in titanium must be cut slowly, with oil, going back every 0.5-1 revolution.
To cut out the contour of the locking spring in the lower die, at the place where it is supposed to end, I drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, connect them, insert a hacksaw blade there and off we go. Slowly, almost to the hole for the axle. In this place, I also recommend drilling a small technological hole for a clear end of the cut. All that remains is to saw through the line of the stopper itself. Here it is necessary to leave a reserve, which is then removed when setting up the lock.
The second, upper, die has exactly the same dimensions (as a rule) as the lower one. But it must have a recess for a hole for opening the knife. All mating holes should be drilled in batches. Start with the holes for the axle. Do not forget that the diameter of the holes for the fastening screws in the lower die must be threaded, and in the upper one the diameter of the screw.
So everything is cut and drilled. Select, or make your own, two fluoroplastic or bronze washers that will be used as a bearing on the axis of rotation (folding) of the knife. Insert the axle into the lower die, install the locking pin, washer, blade, and fold the future folding knife.
If something doesn't match, adjust it to the correct size. This must be done very carefully and carefully. Remember Zhvanetsky: “One careless movement: and you are a father.” Well, everything fits together!
On the locking spring of the lower die, mark a place for the ball and in this place drill a hole with a diameter 0.1-0.2 mm smaller than the diameter of the ball. I use balls with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, from the bearing. Then, in a vice (placing a piece of hot metal under the ball, otherwise it will fit into the jaws of the vice), press the ball into the locking plate. The ball should protrude outward by approximately 0.5 mm. The thickness of the washer on the axis between the blade and the die.
Next, using a marker, draw in the place on the heel of the blade where the ball will move and fold/unfold the future folding knife several times. A clear mark from the ball will be visible on the blade. Stepping back 0.3-0.5 mm from the place where it (the trace) ends, drill a hole into which the ball will go in the folded position of the knife. Carefully bend the plate in the desired direction.
Assemble your future folding knife without the top die and adjust the lock (your stopper is cut out with a margin). Do this very carefully (remember Zhvanetsky). As soon as the lock engages, stop. Assemble the folding knife completely, with the top die, and try folding/unfolding it several times, apply force (as if cutting something). Do this several times. And put it off until tomorrow.
Final adjustment of the parts of a homemade folding knife.
Sleep with the idea that you have made your first folding knife. The next day there will definitely be something to finish. Bring the castle to condition. The locking plate should not reach the upper end of the heel of the blade, otherwise it will fall all the way to the top plate and jam the lock.
If the spring is too tight (depending on the thickness and brand of used
The variety of types of knives does not allow the topic of their manufacture to dry out. on our own. A knife is an ideal assistant not only in household, but also for hunting, fishing and other outdoor conditions. Some people may also need a knife for tough self-defense. But it is still better to try to avoid using a knife as a weapon of self-defense. There are items of self-defense that are less dangerous to human life and more legal, so to speak. But life is life and you never know when, how and with what you will have to defend it. Hiking and Hunter knives It is convenient to carry in a sheath, but in an urban environment, a cleaver on a belt will look quite wild and will naturally attract the close attention of law enforcement agencies. That's why there are folding knives that are convenient to carry in your trouser pocket. We will start making this today.
Naturally, it will be much easier to buy a folding knife, but people come to this site who do not pursue simplicity, but try to do everything with their own hands. The article is for informational purposes and is aimed at readers who already have an idea about making knives, so the description is given rather briefly; but from the photographs you can understand almost every step of the work.
To make a folding knife, we need a titanium plate, although we can also use stainless steel or some other good steel. Naturally, it all starts with making a template, the shape of which you will then transfer to a steel strip.
First we will make the handle liners of the folding knife. We outline the shape of the liner on a titanium plate and cut it out using any tool available to you. Next, we do rough processing of the liner, grinding off excess metal using sandpaper and files. We are making a second liner. To do this, apply the finished liner to a strip of metal and drill two holes through. We cut threads into them, fasten the liners with headless screws and cut out the second liner, using the first as a template. Next, we process the paired liners using sandpaper and files, getting as close as possible to the contour line of the liner.
Now it’s time to make the folding knife blade and the back of the handle. We proceed in exactly the same way: templates, transfer to a titanium strip, sawing and sanding.
We drill holes in the liners for attaching the back of the knife handle. We assemble the knife and look where there are inconsistencies and cracks. If necessary, we modify these places, using files to achieve a perfect alignment of all parts of the folding knife.
We put on the second liner and drill additional holes for attaching the back of the knife. You can fasten the parts of the knife handle using special screws by first cutting the threads in the holes with a tap. The screws are convenient because, if necessary, the knife can be easily disassembled and any modifications can be made. We flare all the holes for the screws with a larger drill so that the screw head does not protrude above the surface of the liner.
Next, we cut out two upper and two lower metal linings of the knife handle. We glue them to the liners using superglue. Now we drill holes for the screws through the liners into the metal plates. The holes in the linings should not be through. Now put the knife in a bath of acetone to dissolve the superglue.
We chamfer the blind holes of the metal plates of the folding knife and cut threads into them. We attach the pads to the liners using screws. We adjust the linings by sanding off the excess metal to the shape of the liners.Next, we perform the final grinding of the knife handle.
From the inside, on the front metal plates, we drill recesses for the blade axis with a drill sharpened at an obtuse angle. For the axle, we grind the support screws to lathe. We cut the thread with a die.In the back of the handle we cut out a cone-shaped (dovetail) groove for the leaf spring.
We harden all metal parts of a folding knife using homemade horn or a gas burner.We will make the middle part of the overlays from any available material: wood, bone, plastic, plexiglass, textolite, etc.
We cut out and grind the plate, adjusting its shape. The work requires precision, so adjust the middle pad slowly and periodically try it on. After this, we drill blind holes in the liners for attaching the wooden trim. And cut out the L-shaped slots.
The matter remains closed. Drill holes for the lock at each end of the liner. We connect them with a slot. Then we make a transverse cut and get an L-shaped slot that forms the locking plate. We harden it gas burner and bend it to the side three or four millimeters.
We drill a hole in the corner of the lock plate and press a metal ball into it. The back of this locking ball is ground flush with the spring plane.We sharpen the axle screw, making it rectangular. We mill a slot for the screw in the liner body.We sharpen the fin of the back of the knife handle on both sides. We grind the metal parts of the handle linings. We make bevels on the blade of a folding knife.
Assembling the knife. But the axle is fitted with a thin washer, a blade, and another washer. Then the second liner is put on. We insert the middle pads, snapping them into the L-shaped holes. We tighten the screws with a flat special key.
The urbanization of the modern world has led to an increase in the popularity of folding knives (in common parlance - “folders” or “folders”, from the English folder - a folded object). Such a knife is compact and convenient for a city dweller, attracts less attention, and is usually absolutely legal to carry.
It can be used for a variety of operations - opening envelopes and cardboard boxes, opening plastic packaging, cutting tape, etc. In a critical situation, it can also be used as a weapon of personal defense. There was even a special term for the knives of a city dweller - “everyday carry knife” or EDC knife (from the English abbreviation EDC - Every Day Carring).
The activities of human rights organizations in many countries of the world have led to the fact that folding knives have come to replace fixed-blade knives in law enforcement agencies and even in special units operating in urban environments. These knives are called “tactical”. While superior to city knives in strength and reliability, they are inferior to them in size and weight.
In addition to self-defense, they can be used for a wide variety of operations - breaking doors, breaking through office partitions and, of course, cutting ropes, etc. These knives are often used as auxiliary knives in military units, as well as tourist (camping) knives or knives for working in field conditions.
Main types of blade clamps
The achievements of modern metallurgy and inorganic chemistry, the introduction of new materials processing technologies make it possible to implement the most daring design ideas. Close interaction between knifemakers and hand-to-hand combat experts allows us to create original models of tactical knives with enhanced fighting qualities. As a result, new models of folding knives with unusual shape blades, ergonomic handles, additional elements designs that increase the convenience and safety of using the knife.
Knives with increased cutting properties
There is no perfect knife. Certain design solutions and elements increase the performance of a knife for performing certain types of work. In addition, no two people are the same; they have different hand sizes; they may have a leading right or left hand. For those who are not experts in the field of bladed weapons, the variety of designs creates certain difficulties when choosing a knife to suit their needs.
Design of folding knives
Folding knives have a long history and have gone from primitive designs to high-tech products, the manufacture of which uses the most advanced technologies.
A typical folding knife is a blade with a single-sided sharpening, mounted on the axis of the handle. When folded, the knife blade is hidden in the handle.
The main structural elements of a knife are the blade and the handle.
IN classic version The blade rotates in the plane of the handle. Much less common are knives in which the axis of rotation of the knife is perpendicular to the plane of the blade. Such knives look very original, but are inferior in reliability to knives of classical design. An exception to this rule is hinged knives with a transverse blade opening.
In most folding knives, when open, the blade is in line with the handle. Among folding knives designed for personal self-defense, you can find knives in which the blade can be fixed in an intermediate position - perpendicular to the handle. In this case, the knife turns into a knife with a brass knuckle grip of the type of the famous “push daggers”, which originate from the daggers of the hidden carry of card players of the Wild West. The advantage of such knives is a simplified striking technique - a blow is similar to a blow with a fist.
The STI company even developed the Tai sabaki knife (from the name of the Japanese technique of turning the body), in which the blade can be fixed in six positions, which allows you to expand the technical arsenal of striking.
STI knife with blade fixation in several positions
According to the principle of opening, knives can be divided into knives:
- with manual opening and closing of the blade;
- with semi-automatic and automatic blade opening;
- fully automatic.
In knives with semi-automatic opening, to bring the blade into working condition, it is enough to move the knife blade slightly, and then it is brought to working condition by a special spring.
Semi-automatic knives and automatic knife (right)
In knives with automatic opening, you only need to press a special button or a folding trigger guard on the handle. In knife literature, such knives are often called “automatic” or “automatic knives,” although this is not entirely true, since the reverse operation of folding the blade is performed manually. A classic example of such knives is the “Italian stiletto” and its numerous clones.
Buttons for opening semi-automatic knives and an Italian stiletto
In fully automatic knives, both opening and closing of the knife occurs automatically. Moreover, the blade extends from the handle along the longitudinal axis of the blade (frontal ejection of the blade), and in the closed position it is completely retracted into the handle. This allows the use of dagger-type blades with double-sided or one-and-a-half sharpening in such knives, but imposes restrictions on the width of the blade - it cannot be greater than the width of the handle.
The process of opening/closing the blade is controlled by a special slider on the handle. These knives usually have a characteristic blade play. Only specialists from the Microtek company, known for the high quality of knife manufacturing, managed to create automatic knives that are practically free of this drawback. But the price for this is their high price.
Automatic knives from Microtek
The legislation of many countries, including Russia, classifies automatic knives with a certain blade length as criminal, and their carrying in these countries is prohibited. These restrictions do not apply to semi-automatic knives.
To avoid the risk of injury if these knives are accidentally opened in a pocket, they often have a special safety lock.
The main advantage of automatic and semi-automatic knives is that they can be quickly brought into working condition with one hand. This is of great importance in knife fighting, as well as for people who, as a result of their professional activities, can only use one hand.
The disadvantages of these knives include increased sensitivity to dirt due to the rather complex design of the opening mechanism, and therefore less reliability. Cleaning the mechanism is a rather complex procedure, especially in fully automatic knives, where it can only be carried out by qualified personnel. Therefore, automatic and semi-automatic knives are not well suited for field conditions.
Knives in which the blade opens due to its gravity (“inertial knives”) do not have these disadvantages. The most famous of them is the knife of the Wehrmacht airborne units, which is still produced in a modified version today. The knife is very reliable, has simple design and can be easily disassembled for preventative cleaning.
Fixing the blade in the open position is ensured by special structural elements - locks(in English literature - lock). This blade fixation ensures safe use knife, especially during operations where its piercing action is necessary.
On the first primitive folding knives, the latch-lock was a special protrusion on the butt of the knife, similar to a straight razor. Currently, there are many varieties of these devices. However, only three types of locks are most widespread - back up (lock on the butt of the blade), liner lock (strip lock) and axis lock (axial lock), as well as their varieties. All of them allow you to create knives that can be opened with only one hand, and provide a fairly reliable fastening of the blade in the open position.
A type of lock on the butt of a blade
Lock on the butt of the blade (back up lock) considered the most reliable. But knives with this type of lock are difficult to fold with one hand. In addition, there is a possibility of accidental folding of the blade when the handle is squeezed tightly.
Knives that use a type of back up lock, which was originally used on Spanish Navaja knives, are free from this drawback. A similar lock is used on the South African Okapi. In this lock-clamp, the blade is locked in the open position by the protrusion of the butt, which fits into the hole on the spring bar of the lock. To disengage the lock, just pull the special ring. IN modern versions the ring has been replaced by a more compact and convenient folding bracket - a lever.
Linear lock compared to the previous one, it allows you to close the knife with one hand (in fairness, it should be noted that due to the asymmetry of the design, this is not entirely convenient for people with a dominant left hand). Experts believe that in terms of the reliability of fixing the blade, this lock is inferior to the lock on the butt of the blade - under strong longitudinal load, the end of the locking strip may disengage with the heel of the blade.
Much less common is ring lock, which is used on French Opinel knives, which have been produced since the end of the 19th century. This lock has a very simple design - a ring with a slot. To unlock the blade, simply turn the ring so that its slot aligns with the line of the blade. The same type of lock was used on the original domestic knife “Fortel”.
In addition to the classic ones, there is a very interesting type of hinge-frame type knives. In these knives, the main design element is special frames or hinges, which simultaneously secure the blade. Such knives are characterized by high reliability of locking the blade in the open position while the knife is held in the hand. They have a symmetrical shape, making them equally convenient for both right-handed and left-handed people.
Frame knives consist of two frames, the planes of rotation of which are mutually perpendicular. Among domestic knives, these include “Chizhik” by master Konstantin Sazhin and “Skat” by the company “NOKS”.
Frame knives “Chizhik” and “Scat”
Of the hinged knives, the most famous is the Philippine balisong (butterfly knife) and its antipode, in which the plane of rotation of the blade is perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the knife. The latter is perhaps the only knife with a transverse blade tear-off, which ensures very reliable fixation of the knife blade in the open state.
Among articulated knives, the most complex design have pantograph knives. Typical examples are the German Paratrooper knife and the Smith & Wesson Power Glide knife.
Knives with transverse blade rotation
The Paratruper knife, patented in Germany in 1938, is sometimes mistakenly called a Wehrmacht airborne knife. An indispensable condition for knives for parachutists is the ability to open it with one hand, but the Paratrooper cannot be opened with one hand. The reason for this misconception was the name of the knife, which translates as “paratrooper”. However, this name is not related to the purpose of the knife, but to the fact that its opening resembles the opening of a parachute canopy. Unique Feature This knife is that the length of the blade when open exceeds the length of the handle.
The main disadvantage of hinged frame knives is the inability to open the knife with one hand and the complexity of the design. The only knife of this type that does not have these shortcomings is the famous Philippine balisong knife.
Articulated knives
In most folding knives, when folded, the blade is completely hidden in the handle of the knife. Only part of the butt protrudes from the handle (for this reason, double-sided sharpening of the blade is not used in folding knives). However, there are knives in which, when folded, the blade comes out of the handle - semi-folding knives. A classic example of such a knife is the daggers of Admiral D’Estaing. This design combines the advantages of large fixed-blade knives and the small dimensions of folding knives. This design of knives was quite common on hunting and huntsman knives in the last century. It is with this knife that Kuzmich cuts a pineapple from the garden in the popular comedy “Peculiarities of the National Hunt.”
Half-mounted knives
The downside to these knives is that they require a sheath to carry them. Knives are free from them, in which the blade is retracted into a special groove that extends from the handle when the blade is folded.
The Soviet knife designed by A. I. Shilin, deputy chief designer of the Kovrov plant No. 2 named after. K. O. Kirkizha (State Union Plant No. 2). The knife was developed as part of a competition to select a folding knife for officers of the Soviet Army, which was held in 1944, and took second place in this competition. According to some reports, a small test series of these knives was made in 1945. However, for unknown reasons, the knife never entered service. The knife had a blade with double-sided sharpening. When folded, the blade was hidden two-thirds of its length in the handle. Used to carry a knife wooden scabbard, inside of which there were special hooks that ensured automatic extension of the blade to its full length when the knife was removed. In addition to the blade itself, the handle of the knife contained a standard set of tools necessary for Everyday life- awl, corkscrew, screwdriver, can opener and bottle opener.
Officer's knife designed by A.I. Shilin and its modern Chinese analogue
The ideas laid down by Shilin have now been used by the Chinese to develop a special knife that is in service with the Chinese police.
The blade is the main part of the knife. The piercing and cutting properties of the knife depend on it. The main factors that determine the operational characteristics of a blade are the material and technology of its manufacture, as well as its shape and cross-section. The blades of modern folding knives are made of corrosion-resistant types of steel. On blades from well-known manufacturers, the steel grade is often stamped on the blade at the base of the handle. On cheap knives you can often see the inscription on the blade - “stainless” or “rostfrei”, which simply means “ stainless steel" Currently, the knife industry uses several dozen different grades of steel. Since in different countries Since there are different standards for designating steel grades, the same steel may have different designations. The most common steel grades used for the manufacture of folding knife blades are shown in the table.
For an inexperienced user, it is enough to take into account the fact that the more expensive the steel, the longer it holds an edge, but this increases the fragility of the cutting edge and makes it more difficult to edit the knife at home. The quality of the blade is largely influenced by the technology of thermal hardening of the steel used by the manufacturer. With proper heat treatment, even relatively cheap types of steel provide good cutting qualities of a knife, and vice versa, even expensive types steel with flaws in heat treatment will not allow to ensure good quality blade. This is precisely why the high cost of folding knives from well-known manufacturers with modern equipment and carefully monitoring the quality of the blade.
The hardness of a cutting edge is expressed in Rockwell units. Typically, folding knife blades are hardened to 42–60 HRC. The higher this number, the longer the knife holds an edge, but this comes at the cost of less resistance to impact loads and the difficulty of sharpening the knife. And, conversely, at low HRC values, the cutting edge is more ductile, easy to sharpen, but does not hold an edge well. When the hardness increases above 61 HRC, the blade of knives with a normal spine thickness becomes very fragile. Blade blades hardened to 42 units. or less, has low strength and is difficult to cut ordinary materials. This indicator is not given on the packaging of knives. Even when describing the model on the manufacturer’s website, it is not always possible to see it. When using a knife, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the knife blade is very sensitive to temperature increases. That is why you should not stir up the coals of a fire with a knife or use an electric sharpener for plumbing or carpentry tools to sharpen it.
The surface of the blade can be polished, matted, blued, chrome-plated or have a special protective coating.
Polishing increases the blade's resistance to corrosion, but this surface shines in the sun, which is not entirely acceptable in tactical knives. Matting increases the anti-reflective properties, but worsens the corrosion resistance of the knife.
When a blade is blued, a thin layer of protective oxide film is created on its surface, and the blade acquires a dark color. When chrome plating, a thin layer of chromium is applied to the surface of the blade, which prevents corrosion of the blade, but not its cutting edge.
In modern knives, blade coatings made of synthetic materials (epoxy resins, Teflon) are becoming increasingly common, which provide high resistance to moisture or acidic and alkaline environments. Because this coating prevents the blade from reflecting in the sun, it is often called "anti-glare" and is often used on tactical knives. The disadvantage of such coatings is low wear resistance and sensitivity to scratches.
IN Lately As industrial production of Damascus steel becomes cheaper, more and more blades are made from it. Damascus steel is produced by forge welding several layers of steel with different carbon contents. As a result, a beautiful pattern appears on the surface of the blade. Modern industrial production Damascus steel allows you to pre-design the shape of this pattern (“mosaic damascus”).
The combination of low-carbon steel strips, which provide ductility, and high-carbon steel, which ensures the hardness of the cutting edge, allows you to create blades with excellent performance qualities. In addition, the cutting edge of Damascus steel knives has micro-teeth, which increase the cutting ability of the knife.
Knives with Damascus steel blades look very impressive. However, it should be borne in mind that the risk of receiving a defective Damascus steel blade is much higher than when purchasing a knife with a regular steel blade. This is due to the rather complex technology of manufacturing such steel.
Doly, which are often called blood flows, are longitudinal grooves along the axis of the blade and serve to lighten the weight of the blade. At the same time, they increase the rigidity of the blade in the transverse direction. Sometimes they are through-cuts.
Ricasso— the unsharpened part of the blade at the handle serves for the convenience of sharpening the knife.
False blade came from combat knives with a fixed blade with a one-and-a-half sharpening.
Folding knives use a variety of blade shapes. For ordinary household operations, knives with a straight blade or a blade converging to the tip are preferred. The disadvantage of the classic blade shape is its lower strength at the tip, since the thickness of the blade smoothly decreases towards the tip. Blades in the form of “tanto” or “modified tanto” are free from this drawback.
At the beginning of this century, first on knives with a fixed blade, and then on folding knives, a special blade shape with a reinforced tip began to be used. If increased cutting properties are required from a knife (knives for self-defense), blades with a blade having a convex or wavy shape are used. At the end of the last - beginning of this century, knives with a sickle-shaped blade, which is characteristic of Malaysian karambit knives, came into fashion. Such a blade does not cut, but rips up the surface of the target like a plow. Knives with such a blade are used for self-defense or for cutting car seat belts. Knives in which the blade is located at an angle to the handle serve the same purpose. This idea received its maximum development in knives with pistol grips from STI.
Flat wedge It has high performance qualities, combining blade strength and a sharp blade. Due to the even distribution of force, it cuts well soft materials large thickness. Disadvantages: difficult to sharpen, does not cope well with cutting hard materials.
Chisel profile— differs in manufacturability and ease of sharpening. It is widespread on the blades of Asian knives. It has excellent chopping properties and cuts thin materials well.
Plano-concave wedge and its variety, a flat-concave wedge with an inlet, is distinguished by its ease of manufacture, is easy to straighten and sharpen, and performs excellent shallow cuts. Disadvantages: low mechanical strength, difficulty cutting thick materials due to protruding side ribs.
Wedge profile has excellent cutting properties. The disadvantage is the fragility of the cutting edge and the difficulty of sharpening (it is necessary to sharpen the entire plane of the blade). The wedge-shaped section with inlet is free from this drawback.
Pentagonal profile combines manufacturability, strength, good cutting qualities, and is easy to straighten. Disadvantages: difficulty in sharpening when restoring the cutting edge.
In addition to the blade, folding pocket knives may have additional auxiliary tools - an awl, a corkscrew, a can opener, a bottle opener. In the so-called “Swiss Army knives” the number of such tools can reach several dozen. Such multifunctional knives are called “multi-tools.” For self-defense, knives with two working blades are also produced, which allow you to hit a target with forward and backward strokes of the hand without changing the orientation of the knife or changing its grip.
Part of the blade blade may be sharpened in the form of a saw for cutting fibrous materials. In knife literature, such sharpening is called “serator” or “sereitor” (from the English. serrated"sawtooth") In self-defense knives, serrated sharpening makes it easier to cut through thick outer clothing and can be done along the entire length of the blade. The configuration of the teeth of this mini saw may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The presence of a serrated blade makes it difficult to sharpen a blade at home; for this you need to have a special tool and skills to work with it, or contact an appropriate specialist. 
The design of most modern folding knives allows you to open them with one hand, both right and left. For this purpose, there are special elements at the base of the blade - cylindrical pins, round or square dies or holes in the blade (the round hole is protected by a patent owned by the American company Spiderco, and other manufacturing companies are forced to use other forms). It is more convenient to open knives with protruding elements - pins or dies, but they reduce the effective length of the blade.
At the beginning of this century, a special device appeared on knives in the form of a hook on the spine, which ensures automatic opening of the knife when pulled out of a trouser pocket. Owners of such knives should be aware that if the trousers are made of thin material, then after several cycles of drawing the knife they will most likely be torn.
Much less common on modern knives is a special semicircular cutout on the blade. Most often it is used in models that have several working blades or tools, or in knives without fixing the blade, which are well known to the older generation from Soviet times.
Another element that makes it easier to open the knife is the flipper. flipper"fin") - a special protrusion on the butt of the blade. To open regular knife It is enough to move the blade slightly, pressing the flipper with your finger, and then, with an energetic swing of the hand, bring the blade into the working position. In semi-automatic knives there is no need for such a swing; the blade is brought to the working position automatically by a spring mechanism.
In addition, the flipper plays the role of a kind of guard, preventing the hand from slipping onto the blade.
The most common grip for folding knives is a straight diagonal (fencing) grip. In this grip, the thumb is located on the butt of the blade. For more comfortable control of the knife, a special notch is made at the point of contact of the thumb on the butt of the blade. The part of the handle adjacent to the blade may also have a notch.
Handles
The handles of most modern knives have a stacked design consisting of an internal frame in the form of metal strips - liners and linings. Blade fixation elements and an automatic opening mechanism (for semi-automatic and automatic knives) are mounted inside the frame.
Simple monolithic handles with a groove for a blade or a handle made of bent strip steels are rarely found in modern knives, mainly in the French “Opinel” and African “Duk-duk”. Previously, the parts of the handle were connected into a single whole using rivets. The axis of the blade was also riveted. IN modern models For this purpose, as a rule, screw connections are used. The use of screw connections allows you to eliminate the loosening of parts that appears during the operation of the knife, regulate the “softness of the blade,” and facilitate disassembly of the knife for maintenance work. Most foreign folding knives use screws with a figured Torx slot. To work with such screws, you need a special tool - screwdrivers or socket wrenches with a corresponding head. Some companies include such keys with the knife, otherwise they have to be purchased additionally.
The shape of the handle, its cross-section, as well as the texture of the lining determine the convenience and safety of using the knife. The rectangular cross-section of the knife is technologically advanced in production, but not convenient in execution. long work with a knife. The round handle fits comfortably in the hand, but it does not allow you to determine the orientation of the knife by touch. Therefore, oval-shaped handles are most convenient. The rectangular shape is compact, but does not provide protection against the hand slipping onto the blade. The wedge-shaped handle better protects the hand when working with the tip of the knife, but when trying to pull out a knife stuck in dense material, the hand will slide off the handle. Small pocket knives often have this shape for performing small household jobs.
The concave shape of the handle provides a more secure grip, but is not entirely comfortable. The convex shape of the handle fits perfectly in the hand and is comfortable for work. This is the shape of the handle that time-tested Finnish-type knives have.
Even more convenient is the convex-concave handle, which is often used on tactical knives. Modern knives increasingly use handles of complex shapes that take into account the ergonomics of the hand. However, its configuration is designed for a medium-sized hand, and a person with a large or, conversely, small hand will not be able to take full advantage of its benefits.
Overlays
For their manufacture, materials of natural (wood, bone, horn) and artificial origin (metals, plastic) can be used. The main advantage of wooden overlays is their “warmth” and the beauty of a natural material. Expensive designer knives can use exotic woods with a very beautiful texture. The main disadvantage is poor wear and moisture resistance. A multi-layer varnish coating in some way solves the problem, but at the same time the reliability of holding the knife in the hand decreases. Another natural material is horn and bone. Handles made from these materials are well polished and look very nice. Disadvantage: They can crack and scratch easily. Metal linings are highly durable, but in the cold season, knives with such handles are inconvenient to use. In addition, they are difficult to hold in a wet or sweaty hand, even if they have a notch on them. In modern knives, titanium alloys based on aluminum or titanium are used for their manufacture. Damascus steel can also be used in expensive designer knives.
Materials based on synthetic resins allow you to imitate the structure natural materials and at the same time avoid their inherent disadvantages, although they are inferior in weight. One of the most popular materials of this type is one of the types of textolite “Micarta”. Recently, overlays made of various types plastics, such as ABC, Zitel, Kydex, etc. These materials are technologically advanced, moisture-resistant, durable and resistant to the external environment. They allow the production of overlays of any shape with any texture pattern - from a simple roughness inherent in the overlay material itself, or a rectangular notch to specially designed surface types. Thus, the knives of the CRKT “For Those Who Serve” series use a special honeycomb structure that prevents the knife from slipping in the hand. Rubberized inserts or structural elements such as sandpaper inserts are used for the same purpose.
In the end part of the handles of many models of folding knives there is a through round hole for attaching a lanyard or lanyard to it.
Security Elements
Although modern designs of blade locks are quite reliable, nevertheless, as noted above, there is a possibility of accidental folding of the blade. To prevent this, modern knives have special fuses. For knives with a lock on the butt, they are usually located in the cutout area of the locking lever. In models with a linear lock, they are located in the front of the handle under the thumb. Supplementing the blade locks with safeties practically turns the knife from a folding knife into a knife with a fixed blade.
To safely carry semi-automatic and automatic knives, the safety must prevent the knife from opening in a clothing pocket if the trigger is accidentally pulled. Therefore, in such knives the fuse often has a double effect - it blocks the blade in the closed and open state.
Clip for wearing
An almost obligatory attribute of modern folding knives is a steel spring clip. In knife literature, the term “clip” is often used to denote it. clip clamp, paper clip). It ensures convenient carrying of the knife in clothing pockets or on a trouser belt.
Many knife manufacturers make the clamp adjustable—that is, it can be attached to different sides of the handle depending on whether the owner is right-handed or left-handed. In addition, sometimes you can change not only the side of the clamp - at the base or at the end. In this case, the knife in the pocket will be oriented either with the tip down or up. Some experts believe that when wearing a knife with the tip up, there is a possibility of a cut when trying to get the knife out of your pocket if, for some reason, the blade comes out of the handle. At the same time, with this orientation of the knife, it is brought into working condition more quickly.
In some models of folding knives, the clip attachment point is not Z-shaped, but shaped like the letter “L” or “P”. In this case, when the knife is carried in a clothing pocket, the upper part of the handle is hidden from external view - only the spring plate of the clip protrudes from the pocket. Outwardly, it looks like an ordinary ballpoint pen.
Elements that enhance striking capabilities
For self-defense purposes, the knife can be used without opening the blade. In this case, it is used as a palm stick and the blow is delivered by parts of the handle protruding from the fist. In tactical and self-defense knives, the end of the handle, to increase the effectiveness of such strikes, often has a triangular shape or a special striking element in the form of a cylinder, cone or pyramid.
Concluding the review of folding knife designs, it should be noted that the legality of a knife, that is, the fact that it is not a bladed weapon, can only be determined by law by an expert. Therefore, when purchasing a knife, you should always ask the seller for a copy of the information sheet for the certification test report (in common parlance it is often called a “certificate”). The absence of such a document, no matter what the seller says, may indicate that the knife you like has not passed the test to be a bladed weapon. Moreover, it is best if such tests were carried out by the parent organization “Forensic Expert Center of the Ministry of Internal Affairs”. It is better to always have a copy of this document with you, which will allow you to avoid unnecessary conflicts with law enforcement officials. 
Most of the high-quality folding knives on the Russian knife market are products of foreign companies. Unfortunately, most serial domestic folding knives are inferior to foreign ones in almost all respects, and original models can rarely be found among them. Russian craftsmen and knife companies prefer to create knives with a fixed blade, and among them there are very original models that have no analogues abroad, which include the knives of Vitaly Kim, the Kondrat knife, the NDK-17 knife (a saboteur knife designed by Kochergin) . This is largely due to the more complex technology and the expensive equipment required for it. Among Russian craftsmen, only a few design and produce original handmade folding knives that are not inferior to foreign ones (including in price). As an example, folding knives from the Ural master Urakov and the workshop of the Shirogorov brothers are shown. The rapid pace of development of the Russian knife industry allows us to hope for the emergence of domestic folding knives that are not inferior to foreign models.
Anatoly Fomin. Magazine "Brother" 2013-01
Today, buying a folding knife is not at all difficult, since such products are not only presented in a huge assortment, they are also sold in many retail stores, as well as on Internet sites. But, despite this, every day the number of people who want to make DIY folding knife. This is due to the fact that homemade folding knives are unique and a person can customize it as much as possible to suit his preferences. Moreover, in the process of making a knife yourself, a person can use any materials, which will make the device reliable and durable.
Before you start making your own folding knife, you need to clearly define the following indicators:
- what will be the shape of the future knife;
- what material will be used to make it;
- what design the future knife will have;
- what will be the design of the knife?
DIY folding knives can be made of any material and have any shape, the main thing is to adhere to established standards when manufacturing. When selecting materials for a knife, you must give preference to the most durable and strong material. Stainless steel with high hardness or Damascus steel is suitable for the blade. Of course, most people prefer stainless steel, since it is easier to make a knife from it and, unlike Damascus steel, it is resistant to corrosion.
In addition to the materials, to make a knife you need to prepare the tools that may be required during the work process. It is worth noting that when making a simple version of a folding knife, you will need the simplest available tools. Special attention should be paid to the choice of material for the handle, since it should not only be reliable and durable, but also comfortable to use. That is, you need to properly think through the shape of the handle so that it fits securely in your hand and does not slip out. Having decided on the most convenient shape of the handle, you need to choose the material from which it will be most convenient to make it.
Making a folding knife can occur using handle materials such as, hard rocks natural wood, impact-resistant plastic or metal. And, of course, planning self-production knife, you need to think about the mechanism of its folding. Moreover, knife mechanisms must be treated with special care and every detail must be thought through, since an incorrectly executed mechanism can cause injuries while using the knife. Before you begin work on making a folding knife, you need to make sure that everything necessary materials prepared.
Folding knife mockup
So, if a person is interested in the question, how to assemble a folding knife, then this can be done even without special skills. The main thing in this process is to take into account all the established parameters and adhere to all the rules for performing such a process. The first thing to do, starting with making a knife, is to sketch the future device on paper. You can also use special graphic editors. The best option for cutting out a template for the future knife blade is cardboard, since it is more durable than paper. Moreover, you can cut out all the components of the future knife from cardboard, and then fasten the cardboard blade and handle with a screw and nut; to do this, you need to cut a hole in the cardboard for the axle. This approach will help you understand how proportional the elements of the knife are, and how the device being manufactured will close.
In addition, making a cardboard model of the knife will help to correctly match the shape of the heel of the blade, and this part, as you know, is extremely important for the comfortable and practical use of the knife. You can find out what the supporting part of the heel should look like by viewing DIY folding knife video. The video will help you make sure that the heel of the blade is really made correctly and has the required bevel angle; an angle of 7-9 0 is considered optimal. After this, you need to sketch a linear knife lock; as you know, it is based on three points that form a triangle. Each point of the linear lock has its own purpose:
- for installing the pivot pin;
- for mounting a corkscrew pin;
- the contact zone of the supporting planes of the heel of the blade and the pressure plate, that is, the stopper.
It is worth noting that it is the lateral pressure force of the stopper that fixes the blade in the closed position; there are no other elements performing this function in this knife design. That is why it is extremely important to mount a small steel ball from the bearing into the stopper; it will become an additional retainer for the closed blade and, accordingly, will secure the use of the knife. It is very important to choose the correct location of the ball retainer, since it depends on the functioning of the entire knife lock.
Having marked the location of the ball retainer on a cardboard mock-up of the blade and locking spring, you need to make sure that it will fit tightly there and will not interfere with folding the knife. After this, you need to decide on the fasteners that will tighten the dies together. It is not recommended to use fasteners with large heads or place them too close to the edge of the handle. This is due to the fact that subsequently it may be necessary to install a spacer or tubular racks between the fasteners.
The procedure for making a folding knife with your own hands
Once the cardboard model of the future knife is ready and all its elements meet the standards, you can begin manufacturing the device itself. On at this stage The material for the future knife and tools that may be useful in the process of its manufacture should already be prepared. As already stated, optimal material Stainless steel is considered to be used for making a knife blade, since it will not rust even if moisture gets inside the folder.
To drill holes in hardened steel, it is best to use ceramic or glass drills. It is very important to drill at low speeds and apply a little force. If you approach the process of drilling holes in a workpiece irresponsibly, you can simply erase the drill bits without achieving the desired result. In order to prevent steel from sinking, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of its heating and often cool the part.
As for dies, it is better to use titanium for them, since, even with a small thickness, this material has high strength indicators. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not corrode, which is also important for a folding knife. When processing titanium and giving it the desired shape, it is also recommended to work at low speeds of the grinder; you can even use hand saw on metal.
In order to make a folding knife, the next thing to do is to cut out the contours of the corkscrew spring, which will be located at the bottom of the die. At the intended end of the die, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of no more than 2.5 millimeters; there should be 3-4 such holes. After making the holes, you need to connect them and insert a hacksaw blade there. The next step will be sawing through the stopper line, but when performing this procedure it is necessary to leave a small margin, which will be removed during the process of setting up and checking the finished knife.
As for the lower die, it often has the same dimensions as the upper one, but there is one difference; in the lower die it is necessary to make a special recess for the hole for opening the knife. Another difference between the top and bottom dies is the diameter of the screw holes. In the lower die, such holes must be made for the screw thread, while the diameters of the holes in the upper die must have the diameter of the screw. After all the parts have been cut out and all the holes drilled, you need to make or select two small washers. Bronze or fluoroplastic washers are considered the most optimal. Such washers will act as a bearing and be mounted on the axis of rotation of the knife.
The next stage in the manufacture of the knife will be its direct assembly. This must be done one by one:
- insert the axle into the lower die;
- install the locking pin;
- install the washer;
- place the blade and assemble the knife together.
If any inaccuracies arise during the assembly process, but they need to be eliminated, for example, if the parts of the knife do not mate, then they need to be adjusted in place. After the knife is assembled, you need to install the corkscrew ball. To do this, in the area of the corkscrew spring it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.1-0.2 millimeters, that is, it must be smaller than its ball. The average size of a bearing ball is 1.5-2 millimeters. The ball is pressed into the locking plate using a vice, and it should protrude to the surface by approximately half a millimeter.
After the ball is installed, it is necessary to determine the place of its contact with the wedge; to do this, just close and open the knife several times. After this, a mark will remain on the blade of the knife; at a distance of 0.3 millimeters from the edge of the mark, it is necessary to make a small hole into which the ball will enter when the knife is closed. In order to set and check the functionality of the knife lock, it is initially recommended to assemble the device without the top die. If everything works properly, you can completely assemble the knife and check its operation while folded.
Now the knife is ready. As it becomes clear, do DIY automatic folding knife This may take a little time and patience.
Well, to complete the review of the anatomy of folding knives, we should consider one more the most important detail, for some reason in the above article only mentioned in passing: fuse/lock. A lock is a mechanism that secures the knife blade in the “open” position and prevents it from closing spontaneously. For modern folding knives, many various designs castles, it is difficult to say which one is better - each has its own characteristics.
Liner lock
The most common type of lock, relatively simple to manufacture and yet reliable enough for most everyday tasks. The lock mechanism is based on a flat spring, which is part of the liner and rests against the shank of the blade when the knife is opened. You should pay attention to how far the spring extends onto the shank - this largely determines the reliability of the lock. This distance must be greater than the thickness of the spring itself, otherwise the knife may fold under light pressure. 
Framelock (monolock, integral lock)
A type of liner lock. The only difference is that the role of the locking plate is played by part of the knife handle, which in such cases is made of metal. This adds strength to the entire lock, because... In this case, it becomes more difficult to deform the spring. In addition, the hand holding the knife additionally presses the locking plate. 
Back lock
In castles like back lock the shank of the blade is fixed on the side of the butt by a spring-loaded rocker arm. These locks are more difficult to make due to the fact that the part of the rocker that engages and the slot on the shank must fit together quite precisely. Otherwise, the blade is either poorly fixed (the rocker arm does not fully fit into the shank) or wobbles (the rocker arm fits in freely). And even if they are identical, at a certain load vector there will be a slight backlash, which is due to the design itself. 
In 2008, Cold Steel refined the back lock and introduced its new creation - Tri-Ad Lock. The original design received minor modifications: a locking pin was added, which absorbs almost the entire mechanical load, the geometry of the rocker arm engagement itself and the groove in the shank was redesigned, and the hole of the rocker arm axis was made oval. As a result, the strength has increased radically, and when the contacting parts wear out, the rocker will simply change its position without increasing the play of the structure. 
Compression lock
It is a hybrid of liner lock and (to some extent) back lock. The peculiarity is that the flat spring rests on the shank not from behind, as in a liner lock, but from above. Another feature is that the spring extends onto the shank on one side and rests against the locking pin on the other side. An undeniable advantage of the mechanism is that when closing the knife, not a single finger will be in the path of the blade. 
Levitator lock
Knives with locks of this type are produced by Benchmade. Due to its characteristics, the lock can only be used in knives with a metal handle. A special pattern is carved on the handle, forming a spring plate, when pressed, the rod entering the blade's shank moves and releases the blade. 
Coupling lock
Under the name Viroblock is used in most modern knives trademark Opinel. The blade is fixed using a rotating metal coupling with a longitudinal cut. In the extreme position, the clutch blocks the opening of the blade, and when the knife is in the open position, turning the clutch in any direction blocks its closure. Considering the low cost of such knives, the lock on them is simply excellent. 
Pin locks
The AXIS lock type is a patented feature of Benchmade. The blade is fixed with a spindle-shaped pin, which fits into the corresponding grooves on the shank of the knife. In this case, fixation is carried out in both the open and closed positions of the knife, which avoids accidental closing of the blade. According to the results of testing the strength of locks on budget knives by enthusiasts of the website knifelife.ru, the most durable was AXIS in the Benchmade Griptilian 551 model. The main enemy of such a lock is dirt, which can damage the knife. 
Arc lock, patented by SOG, is very similar in operating principle to AXIS, but has slight differences - the pin is additionally secured to a small rocker arm inside the handle. 
Rolling lock- another lock from Benchmade. Here the pin is completely inside the handle and is activated by an L-shaped lever with a pin extended outward. 
Ultra Lock- another type of pin lock, this time from Cold Steel. In this embodiment, the pin moves along a U-shaped groove in the blade's shank. The locking rod locks the blade at the extreme points, which ensures reliable fixation in the open and closed positions. 
Push button locks
Lock type button lock(or plunge lock) most often found on automatic knives. When pressed, a spring-loaded button-pin of variable diameter moves its thinner part into the plane of the blade and releases it. Holds the blade both open and closed. The quality of locks of this type depends entirely on the manufacturer. In general, they can be very durable, but they are afraid of dirt. 
Axial lock- a rather unusual lock, which puts most inexperienced knife lovers into a state of slight thoughtfulness. Such a knife opens and closes by pressing on the axis of the knife and turning it with your thumb. On the axis there are protrusions that engage with grooves on the blade and in the handle. 
Stud Lock
A movable pin lock design found on Kershaw knives. When opened, a spring-loaded pin on the knife blade engages a notch in the front of the handle. To unlock the blade, you need to move the peg towards the tip. With proper skill, closing the knife is seamless and quick, and the lock guarantees proper strength. 
Deadbolt locks
Lock ram safe lock mounted on a rather unusual and recognizable Cold Steel Pocket Bushman knife. For all its technological simplicity, the lock is very powerful. In it, the shank of the blade is locked with a rod (crossbar), which moves parallel to the butt. The rod on the opposite side of the blade is pressed by a rigid spiral spring, and in order to open the knife, you need to pull the lanyard. Opening (and especially closing) with one hand is extremely difficult, but in order to break such a lock, you will have to work hard. 
Design bolt lock differs from the previous lock by the presence of a pin attached to the crossbar and located on the side surface of the handle. The principle of operation of the lock is very similar to pin designs. 
Gear lock
In design ratchet lock(or cogwheel lock) the rounded shank of the blade is made in the form of a comb with straight or slightly curved teeth, and the locking is done by a plate-plate with a slot for one tooth. When the knife is opened, the plate rises, and all the teeth of this half-gear pass through it, and in order to close the knife, it is necessary to manually lift the locking plate (most often by the ring). The lock is traditional for Spanish Navaja knives, but is also found on South African okapi (and their modern incarnation Cold Steel Kudu). 
Balisong
It is difficult to call the design of a balisong knife (popularly called a “butterfly”) a lock, but, nevertheless, we will describe this method of fixing the blade. When folded, the blade is covered with halves of the handle on both sides. When opened, each half rotates 180 degrees; in some designs they are then secured with a latch, while in others they are simply held together with one hand. 
Slip-joint
Perhaps one of the simplest types of lock, which has found its application in many budget models of tourist knives. In extreme positions, the blade is held from above by the rounded shank by a flat spring. The lock does not provide rigid fixation of the blade, but nevertheless prevents the blade from accidentally folding and damaging your fingers. 
Friction fixation
So-called friction folder- the oldest design of a folding knife, the blade of which is held open due to the friction of the shank on the handle in the area of the axis. Most of these knives have a lever on the tang that protrudes from the handle when the knife is closed. By pressing it, you can remove the blade from the handle, and then open the knife by the blade. In an open knife, the same lever is pressed by hand during operation and additionally prevents folding. Well-known straight razors, European medieval peasant knives and Japanese Higonokami knives are made using this principle. 
