How to make a simple folding knife with your own hands. DIY folding knife made of Damascus steel. Damascus steel made at home. I bring to your attention a high-quality, stylish, unique knife self made made of Damascus steel. We will make steel with our own hands by forging. This knife is folding, friction type, the design is very simple, but this does not prevent the knife from doing its job perfectly. It would not be a shame to give such a knife as a valuable gift, or it can even be sold for substantial money. So, let's take a closer look at how you can make such a knife! Materials and tools used by the author:
List of materials:
- brass rod (for the pin);
- wood for the handle (walnut);
- borax;
- ferric chloride;
- rapeseed oil;
- a lawn mower blade and a file (for the blade);
- screw with nut (for the blade axis);
- epoxy adhesive;
- oil for impregnation, etc.
List of tools:
- forge furnace, anvil and hammer;
- welding machine(preferably);
- orbital sander;
- vice;
- Bulgarian;
- drill or drilling machine;
- jigsaw;
- hacksaw for metal;
- clamps;
-pencil and more.
Knife making process:
Step one. A few words about Damascus steel
Damascus steel is a mixture of different grades of steel. They are mixed by heating, that is, by forging. Next, when a blade is forged from this mixture, it is then immersed in acid. Thanks to chemical reaction Each grade of steel darkens differently, some are lighter, others are darker. As a result, interesting patterns are obtained on the blade. The key is to find an interesting mix of metals that will look good. Also, do not forget that the steel for the knife must be durable.
The author decided to use a lawn mower knife as a material, as well as old file. The resulting Damascus steel when mixed is called "Twisted Damascus". The steel from the file will be darker after pickling, while the steel from the lawnmower blade will be lighter.
We take a file, as well as a lawn mower blade. You will need to cut them into approximately 4 pieces of equal length to make 8 layers. In general, the more layers of metal in Damascus steel, the more interesting it looks. One piece should be long, this will be the handle that you will hold on to while forging.
All plates need to be connected into one single block; it is best to secure them by welding. If there is no welding, we clamp the workpiece in a vice, and then twist it thoroughly with steel wire. That's all, now the workpiece is ready for the next stage!
We send the workpiece to the forge and heat it to the specified temperature. The steel should become soft like plasticine. Then we remove the workpiece, clamp the tip in a vice and twist it. This way we mix layers of metals together.
We work with a grinder, cut off the excess, and polish the workpiece. The author's strip was so long that it was enough to make two knives.
You can start making the blade. First, the author decided to immerse the workpiece in ferric chloride for 10 minutes to see how the pattern would turn out. Finally, neutralize the acid using baking soda.
We cut out the rough profile using a grinder, using grinding discs where necessary. As a result, all you have to do is modify the blade with files, sandpaper and drill a hole for the mounting axis.
Now the blade needs to be hardened so that it holds an edge for a long time. For this, the author used gas burner, but a forge oven will do just fine. We heat the blade until red hot and cool it in vegetable oil. Next, you will need to temper the metal so that the steel is not brittle. We take a burner and heat the blade until it has a straw color, let it cool in the air. The same procedure can be carried out in a regular household oven.
Finally, sand the blade with sandpaper and polish it.
To etch the blade you will need ferric chloride. Depending on the etching time, the pattern will be different. The author first dipped the blade for one hour and then polished it with 2000 grit sandpaper, and then etched again. In general, everything here is done through experimentation.
Select beautiful, valuable wood for the handle and cut out two halves. Drill two holes, one for the mounting axle and one for the locking pin. The author decided to use a brass rod as a fixing pin.
Using epoxy glue, glue the fixing pin into the handle. We select the required gap so that the blade fits in with a small gap and does not dangle. To fasten the blade, the author used a nut with a screw.
Check if everything is working correctly.
Finally, saturate the handle with oil, this will protect the wood and make it more beautiful. If desired, the handle can be polished, so it will look even better.
All you have to do is sharpen the blade well. Here you will need special sharpening device or even regular sandpaper.
That's all, the wonderful knife is ready! Share your opinions.
The creation and use as a bladed weapon is prohibited; according to Article 223.4 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation, it is punishable by imprisonment for up to two years!
Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, using it as a guide, we make further markings of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can move to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.
Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind it using a grinder and sandpaper along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade during the process of removing the slopes, we do not yet cut off the blade itself from the workpiece and do not form the heel of the blade.
To remove descents you can use various instruments: grinders, emery machines, flat grinders, grinders. I do rough grinding of the slopes on sandpaper and fine grinding on a surface grinder.
Next, we begin making the side dies.
Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, or rather the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.
Having prepared the pristinas in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.
For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas. Cleaned with sandpaper and a file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.
After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well. As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.
Soldering the right pritina has its own peculiarities: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.
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| So, all the components of the knife are ready, all that remains is to assemble the knife and once again make sure that the lock is working correctly. Adjust if necessary. For smoother operation of the mechanism, it should be lubricated with machine oil. After some time of operation, the parts of the mechanism will rub in, the blade will rotate easily and smoothly, and the liner plate will rise slightly upward. |
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The knife is very useful tool, you can use it to defend yourself, sharpen a stick, cut sausage, or use it instead of a screwdriver if necessary. In order for the knife to always be with you, it must either have a protective cover or be foldable. The second option is more convenient, since such a knife will be more compact and you will not be able to lose the case. Folding knives come in a wide variety of designs, we will look at the simplest of them.
The author decided to make the handle of his knife exclusively from wood. This material is accessible and easy to work with. The author used only hand tools. The main emphasis in the article is on making a handle. You can either find a blade ready-made from an old knife, or you can sharpen it yourself, it’s not difficult. So, let's start making a knife.
Materials and tools used
List of materials:
– blade blank;
– wooden board;
– steel rod (as an axis for the blade);
– wood glue;
– electrical tape;
– oil for impregnation.
List of tools:
– jigsaw;
– wood hacksaw;
– drill;
– marker;
– plane;
- sandpaper;
– files;
– vice;
– clamps.
Knife making process:
Step one. Cutting out blanks for the handle
To make a handle you will need a piece of board. You can use different types of trees based on your preferences. But just remember that more hard rocks will be more difficult to process. We will cut the board lengthwise into two halves, and in the end we will get two blanks. Here you will need to correctly take into account the thickness of the board.
We apply the blade to the board and trace it. Now we know approximately how long the handle should be so that the blade can fit into it. Also consider the location of the locking pin and so on. Having done everything necessary calculations, clamp the board in a vice in a vertical position and begin cutting. The author first marks the cutting line using a jigsaw, and then a hacksaw with a wide blade comes to the rescue. Slowly, slowly, cut the board into two halves. Step two. We make and install the blade axis
Step three. Finalizing the handle halves
Step four. Internal spacer
Step five. Drilling holes for the axle
Step six. Gluing
We clamp the whole thing with several clamps and let the glue dry completely. Epoxy dries in about a day; wood glue should also take about the same amount of time. Step seven. Final processing
At the same step, you can sharpen the blade; fine sandpaper dipped in water is perfect for this. Step eight. Impregnation
That's all, the making of the knife has come to an end. As a result, we have a small convenient pocket knife ik. Do not forget that the handle is made of wood, so the knife will not be able to withstand high loads on the blade. However, for most household work its strength should be sufficient. That's all, good luck and take care of yourself! Dec 21, 2018 Gennady
The blade is attached to the handle using one metal axis. We look for a rod of suitable diameter and cut off the required piece. We drill a hole in the blade of such a diameter that the axis fits tightly into the hole. The blade should not dangle on the axis.
After the board was sawn into two parts, we got two halves. Each of them needs to be thoroughly leveled and polished, since after cutting the parts will have a lot of irregularities. They can be leveled using a plane or by grinding, which is safer. Finally, sand the parts with sandpaper until they are perfectly smooth.
Between the two halves there is another piece of wood, with its help we get the required gap. We select the gap in accordance with the thickness of the blade. The main idea is for the blade to fit tightly into the handle and not fall out. There are no additional fasteners here. This part will also act as a stop for the blade. Use dense wood for this part, like oak, maple, and so on.
Attach the blade to the workpiece and drill holes for the axle. It should fit tightly into the part. Try to collect all the parts in a pile and make sure that all the parts are made correctly. The blade should not spontaneously fall out of the handle. If this is the case, you need to reduce the gap between the handle halves.
Epoxy glue is suitable for gluing, but the author decided to use wood glue, which is also quite sufficient here. Apply glue to the “spacer” on both sides, and then glue the halves to the sides. As for the axis on which the blade rests, it is highly advisable to apply epoxy glue to it before assembly, so that it will reliably stick to the handle. But be careful, if the glue sticks to the blade, you may not be able to open the knife after making it.
When the glue dries, remove the clamps. You now need to cut off the protruding parts of the axle; for this we use a hacksaw.
Finally, all you have to do is create the desired profile of your handle. This can be done manually, since the sizes are small. We take files and form the desired profile. Then we switch to sandpaper. Finally, we use the finest sandpaper to bring the product to perfection.
Wood is a very treacherous material; it instantly changes in size, cracks, and becomes deformed if moisture gets on it. To avoid these unpleasant consequences, the tree needs to be protected. It will save you here linseed oil or any others intended for wood processing. Do not use mineral oils as they do not dry out. We impregnate the handle everywhere, both outside and inside. Let the oil dry. You can also easily use varnish instead of oil.
Today, buying a folding knife is not at all difficult, since such products are not only presented in a huge assortment, they are also sold in many retail stores, as well as on Internet sites. But, despite this, every day the number of people who want to make DIY folding knife. This is due to the fact that homemade folding knives are unique and a person can customize it as much as possible to suit his preferences. Moreover, in the process of making a knife yourself, a person can use any materials, which will make the device reliable and durable.
Before you start making your own folding knife, you need to clearly define the following indicators:
- what will be the shape of the future knife;
- what material will be used to make it;
- what design the future knife will have;
- what will be the design of the knife?
DIY folding knives can be made of any material and have any shape, the main thing is to adhere to established standards when manufacturing. When selecting materials for a knife, you must give preference to the most durable and strong material. Stainless steel with high hardness or Damascus steel is suitable for the blade. Of course, most people prefer of stainless steel, since it is easier to make a knife from it and, unlike Damascus steel, it is resistant to corrosion.
In addition to the materials, to make a knife you need to prepare the tools that may be required during the work process. It is worth noting that during production simple option folding knife you will need the simplest available tools. Special attention should be paid to the choice of material for the handle, since it should not only be reliable and durable, but also comfortable to use. That is, you need to properly think through the shape of the handle so that it fits securely in your hand and does not slip out. Having decided on the most convenient shape of the handle, you need to choose the material from which it will be most convenient to make it.
Making a folding knife can occur using handle materials such as hardwood natural wood, impact-resistant plastic or metal. And, of course, planning self-production knife, you need to think about the mechanism of its folding. Moreover, knife mechanisms must be treated with special care and every detail must be thought through, since an incorrectly executed mechanism can cause injuries while using the knife. Before you begin work on making a folding knife, you need to make sure that everything necessary materials prepared.
Folding knife mockup
So, if a person is interested in the question, how to assemble a folding knife, then this can be done even without special skills. The main thing in this process is to take into account all the established parameters and adhere to all the rules for performing such a process. The first thing to do, starting with making a knife, is to sketch the future device on paper. You can also use special graphic editors. The most optimal options Use cardboard to cut out a template for the future knife blade, as it is more durable than paper. Moreover, you can cut out all the components of the future knife from cardboard, and then fasten the cardboard blade and handle with a screw and nut; to do this, you need to cut a hole in the cardboard for the axle. This approach will help you understand how proportional the elements of the knife are, and how the device being manufactured will close.
In addition, making a cardboard model of the knife will help to correctly match the shape of the heel of the blade, and this part, as you know, is extremely important for the comfortable and practical use of the knife. You can find out what the supporting part of the heel should look like by viewing DIY folding knife video. The video will help you make sure that the heel of the blade is really made correctly and has the required bevel angle; an angle of 7-9 0 is considered optimal. After this, you need to sketch a linear knife lock; as you know, it is based on three points that form a triangle. Each point of the linear lock has its own purpose:
- for installing the pivot pin;
- for mounting a corkscrew pin;
- the contact zone of the supporting planes of the heel of the blade and the pressure plate, that is, the stopper.
It is worth noting that it is the lateral pressure force of the stopper that fixes the blade in the closed position; there are no other elements performing this function in this knife design. That is why it is extremely important to mount a small steel ball from the bearing into the stopper; it will become an additional retainer for the closed blade and, accordingly, will secure the use of the knife. It is very important to choose the correct location of the ball retainer, since it depends on the functioning of the entire knife lock.
Having marked the location of the ball retainer on a cardboard mock-up of the blade and locking spring, you need to make sure that it will fit tightly there and will not interfere with folding the knife. After this, you need to decide on the fasteners that will tighten the dies together. It is not recommended to use fasteners with large heads or place them too close to the edge of the handle. This is due to the fact that subsequently it may be necessary to install a spacer or tubular racks between the fasteners.
The procedure for making a folding knife with your own hands
Once the cardboard model of the future knife is ready and all its elements meet the standards, you can begin manufacturing the device itself. On at this stage The material for the future knife and tools that may be useful in the process of its manufacture should already be prepared. As already stated, optimal material Stainless steel is considered to be used for making a knife blade, since it will not rust even if moisture gets inside the folder.
To drill holes in hardened steel, it is best to use ceramic or glass drills. It is very important to drill at low speeds and apply a little force. If you approach the process of drilling holes in a workpiece irresponsibly, you can simply erase the drill bits without achieving the desired result. In order to prevent steel from sinking, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of its heating and often cool the part.
As for dies, it is better to use titanium for them, since, even with a small thickness, this material has high strength indicators. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not corrode, which is also important for a folding knife. Processing titanium and giving it the required form, it is also recommended to work at low speeds of the grinder, you can even use hand saw on metal.
In order to make a folding knife, the next thing to do is to cut out the contours of the corkscrew spring, which will be located at the bottom of the die. At the intended end of the die, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of no more than 2.5 millimeters; there should be 3-4 such holes. After making the holes, you need to connect them and insert a hacksaw blade there. The next step will be sawing through the stopper line, but when performing this procedure it is necessary to leave a small margin, which will be removed during the process of setting up and checking the finished knife.
As for the lower die, it often has the same dimensions as the upper one, but there is one difference; in the lower die it is necessary to make a special recess for the hole for opening the knife. Another difference between the top and bottom dies is the diameter of the screw holes. In the lower die, such holes must be made for the screw thread, while the diameters of the holes in the upper die must have the diameter of the screw. After all the parts have been cut out and all the holes drilled, you need to make or select two small washers. Bronze or fluoroplastic washers are considered the most optimal. Such washers will act as a bearing and be mounted on the axis of rotation of the knife.
The next stage in the manufacture of the knife will be its direct assembly. This must be done one by one:
- insert the axle into the lower die;
- install the locking pin;
- install the washer;
- place the blade and assemble the knife together.
If any inaccuracies arise during the assembly process, but they need to be eliminated, for example, if the parts of the knife do not mate, then they need to be adjusted in place. After the knife is assembled, you need to install the corkscrew ball. To do this, in the area of the corkscrew spring it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.1-0.2 millimeters, that is, it must be smaller than its ball. The average size of a bearing ball is 1.5-2 millimeters. The ball is pressed into the locking plate using a vice, and it should protrude to the surface by approximately half a millimeter.
After the ball is installed, it is necessary to determine the place of its contact with the wedge; to do this, just close and open the knife several times. After this, a mark will remain on the blade of the knife; at a distance of 0.3 millimeters from the edge of the mark, it is necessary to make a small hole into which the ball will enter when the knife is closed. In order to set and check the functionality of the knife lock, it is initially recommended to assemble the device without the top die. If everything works properly, you can completely assemble the knife and check its operation while folded.
Now the knife is ready. As it becomes clear, do DIY automatic folding knife This may take a little time and patience.
DIY folding knife. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. DIY folding knife drawings. Friction folding knife. Author. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photos step-by-step production friction type folding knife. It’s hard to call it a master class or tutorial; a lot is missing. Friction folding knives are common in countries where knives with locking locks are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knife makers.
A true gourmet's journey through the home country of Meisel: portraits and recipes of 25 Michelin-starred chefs from Savoy, Haute-Savoie, Piedmont and the country of Nice, including fascinating anecdotes about the history of Savoyard gastronomy written by Annie Victor and illustrated photographs by Anthony Cottarel. There you will learn about the Savoie family and family, as well as modifications to production processes and the technical and commercial development of the brand. The visit ends with a film made during the workshops describing the current production processes.
With a foreword by Pavel Baucus and Michel Dejoe, the tale unfolds through the revelations of Maurice and Denis Meisel and interviews with company employees. The folding knife is one of the most common tools in America. Go to any convenience store, sporting goods store or outfitter in the country and you will find several to choose from.
If, like me, we don’t know how to use Corel, we draw for a long time and tediously with our hands. cut out of cardboard - fold and unfold
The clutch has characteristic feature- a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the frame of the knife there is a locking pin into which the tail of the blade rests when unfolded, and a special recess in the blade when folded so that the edge of the blade does not touch the insides of the frame . Well then, to the point:
With folding knives readily available and legal to carry in more places than a pistol, it's no surprise that everyone more people choose a folding knife as their primary self-defense tool or to complement their regular concealed carry. But despite the wide range of folding knives available, not all blades are created equal. The folder market has some outstanding entries, but is also flooded with knives that are cheap, gimmicks, or simply not suitable for defensive use.
Can you open it with one hand?
If you're considering adding a folding knife to your self-defense options, these are the four things you need to look for. You need a knife that can be opened with one hand. If you are fighting in a clinch, blocking a strike, holding a child, or otherwise unable to use both hands, you will only have one hand free to access and open the knife. And even if you're using the knife in a non-defensive environment, you may need to open it with one hand.
Making a blade requires a separate master class. The axle and sliding washers are from an unknown Chinese folding unit.
we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one in the other.
Does it have a secure locking mechanism?
The blade should lock open, without swinging in any direction. You won't be able to accidentally close the knife. If you need to use your switchblade to defend yourself, the adrenaline will pump through you. You and your attacker will both move and fight. When a knife is used, enormous forces will be applied to the blade. If your locking mechanism fails to handle this, you may find yourself with the blade locked or locked on your fingers.
Is the blade quality steel that will have a sharp edge and is designed to penetrate. The purpose of a defensive jackknife is to cut and stab. Unless your blade gets a lot of use from hard use, it won't make the cuts you need when it counts. A deeper cut is more likely to disable an attacker, and a sharper blade cuts the deepest. It is also very important that the blade profile promotes penetration. When your attacker is wearing heavy, thick, or even just loose clothing, stabbing can be effective and cutting becomes less reliable.
We cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a router
let's take a look at the assembly
From thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer into the back of the handle
Is it legal to exercise in areas you frequent?
Laws regarding knives vary widely from state to state and even city to city. In fact, if you are carrying a folding knife for self-defense, it may be because a fixed blade is illegal to carry in your area. There are rules about length, type and deployment mechanisms. Some of them may be vague or vague, and many of them seem unfair. Our respect for the law is what separates us from criminals, even if we admit that some laws are stupid or arbitrary and do not deserve such respect.
we carefully consider this whole thing many times, we spit and swear
we attach the spacer to the dies, drill, insert pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush
Make sure your knife is legal. There are many other desirable qualities in a knife. For example, you need a way to carry knives that consistently targets quick access. You also want a grip that doesn't get slick when it's wet, be it sweat, blood, or water. While these things are important, they didn't make a list because they can often be dealt with after the fact. The clip is good, but belts and pocket holsters can be a problem with carry. A smooth handle can often be trimmed or dressed with a handle.
But if the knife won't open with one hand, won't stay open under hard use, and won't stay sharp or penetrate layers of clothing, it's a problem that can't be fixed. If you've ever shopped for a pocket knife for daily carry, you'd know that there are a ton of options to choose from. Trying to understand the many types of knives and their subtle differences can become overwhelming. Of the many factors to consider when choosing something as personal as a knife, its locking mechanism is one of the most important.
we make descents on the blade roughly, hardening - tempering, remove descents to zero+ on the diamond from above, rough assembly
hand sanding, etching. The etching process is also missed because this needs to be done separately by MK.
We finally tighten the axial screw with cyanoacrylate fixation, roughly saw out the lining with a spare, and drill recesses for the axle heads.
You should know what type of locking, if any, you should have based on your needs and preferences before investing in quality knife.
Linear locks are one of the most common mechanisms found on folding knives. A characteristic component of this mechanism is the side spring bar, located on the same side as the sharp edge of the blade, "lining" inner part handles. When the knife is closed, the spring bar is held under tension.
we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the stop pin, and pins in the backplate, similarly we glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind them.
When fully open, this tension slides down the shaft inward to contact the butt of the blade, holding it in place without closing it. To disengage the liner lock, you must use your thumb to push the spring bar "down" so that it releases contact with the butt of the blade. This allows you to use forefinger To push the blade, it's enough to hold the bar so that you remove your thumb from the path of the blade, and then proceed to close the knife safely.
Linear locks are useful because they allow the knife to have two true handle sides, as opposed to a frame. You can close the knife with one hand without a switch, ideal when you need both hands at work. You will find liner locks on both entry-level and high-end knives. This is the type of locking that appeals to both beginners and enthusiasts.
glue in the locking pin, cut it off and grind the pads closer to the desired shape
in intimate places where it cannot be removed with a grinder (for example), we remove it with a Dremel.
If you will be using the knife for heavy duty tasks, you should be aware that liner locks are usually not as secure as other locking systems. They're still quite strong, but since they're usually made from a thinner piece of metal, they're more prone to wear and tear, like a hard frame.
Think of a frame lock as a larger version of a liner lock. They are very similar to liner locking mechanisms, except that the internal spring strip moves into place, it is part of the handle itself. Frame lock knives tend to be stronger than liner locks because the piece of metal that slides into place is more substantial than the metal liner. Because of their similarity to liner locks, closing a frame lock knife is essentially the same - push down on the spring bar so it no longer blocks the butt of the blade, move your thumb out of the way, and then fold the knife closed.
you can matte all metal elements, although this is unnecessary
As you can see, at the beginning of the process I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding frame, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to do the etching process as a separate MK, because There are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, I didn’t have enough hands. Article taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some photos of the finished knife.
This type of locking system puts most metal against the blade, providing strong locking for piercing, cutting, slicing and other heavy-duty tasks. Locking locks are seen on many mid to high range knives, usually made from titanium. In the example shown here, the stainless steel insert interacts with the blade as it takes longer to wear than titanium and stabilizes the shaft so you don't loosen it by pushing too far. Not only do they add a unique look to the knife, but they are also easy to operate with one hand.
Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, using it as a guide, we make further markings of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can move to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.
It's easy to use on one side, but also important, it's completely reversible. Here's how it works: The lock consists of a spring-tensioned rod that slides back and forth along a track cut into the handles of the knife. To close the knife you will pull the bar towards the back of the knife using the pins thumb, and fold the blade.
Typically these knives require two hands to open and close safely. They consist of a spring bar and a specially shaped blade. To open the knife, you pull the blade to overcome the spring pressure, snapping the blade into place. To close it, make sure your fingers are out of the way of the sharp edge and lean back. Friction folders are similar except they do not have a spring bar. Instead, the knife blade is held in place simply by friction between the steel of the blade and the weights of the knife.
Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind it using a grinder and sandpaper along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade during the process of removing the slopes, we do not yet cut off the blade itself from the workpiece and do not form the heel of the blade.
To remove slopes, you can use various tools: grinders, sandpapers, flat grinders, grinders. I do rough grinding of the slopes on sandpaper and fine grinding on a surface grinder.
One of the main advantages of these types of knives is their legality. They are also a pleasure to carry because they are simple and easy to use. But it's worth mentioning that these knives don't have a real lock, so they're not the best for heavy-duty tasks.
By now you should be more familiar with your options to better choose a knife worthy of your pocket. Do you have a favorite type of lock to recommend? Words and images by Ed Jelly and Bernard Capulong. If you've seen photos of what people carry every day, you might be wondering, "Why do so many people carry a pocket knife?" The answer is different for everyone, but it all comes back to the idea that a handy pocket knife is an essential tool.
Next, we begin making the side dies.
Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, or rather the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.
Carrying a knife can also potentially save your life in an emergency or survival situation if you spend time on outdoors. However, knives may be restricted depending on where you live and what your local laws are, so keep that in mind before deciding which pocket knife you can carry.
Best pocket knife for everyday carry
When you're choosing the best pocket knife for everyday carry, you should consider many factors: how big the knife is, how it opens, how it locks, how you'll carry it, how durable it is, etc. Remember that you will need a knife that is comfortable, built, durable, safe to use, and legal to carry.
Having prepared the pristinas in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.
For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas. Cleaned with sandpaper and a file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.
After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well. As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.
Soldering the right pritina has its own peculiarities: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.
