A compressor can bring a lot of benefits in various areas of life. Perhaps you need a device for quickly inflating car tires, or you have decided to do airbrushing, but you don’t have suitable equipment, but I don’t want to buy it. You can solve this problem by making a compressor yourself. We will talk about how to do this and what is needed for this.
Make or buy
Before you learn how to make a compressor with your own hands, you need to understand how and what problems it can solve homemade version, and how to deal with them with a store-bought unit. In this regard, everything depends more on the direction for which you need a compressor. If you need it for simple tire inflation, then you can use a homemade one.
It’s another matter if you are drawn to creativity. It doesn't have to be airbrushing to trip over imperfections. home option. The thing is that painting requires a uniform and uniform air flow. It should be free of debris and other small particles.
If these conditions are not met, grainy paintwork or other types of defects may result. This is what you should think about first when you see photos of homemade compressors.
To all of the above, you can also add heterogeneous stains and drips, which will be a problem even when painting a bicycle frame, let alone car parts.
Despite this, both types of compressors are designed pretty much the same when it comes to the basics. In any case, you need a tank in which the air is under high pressure. It can be generated by manual injection, or it can appear from mechanical action.
If the first option is cheaper to implement, then it is worth considering that the work will be much more difficult, because you will constantly need to monitor the pressure level inside the compressor.
If the compressor is equipped with additional automation, all you need to do is add oil or change it from time to time. The result of the operation of such a device will be a constant and uniform supply of air, which can play a very important role important role for you.
Preparation
Here we come to step by step instructions for assembling a compressor at home. If we talk about its advantages, then first of all it is worth remembering the volume of operation, because such a unit will work significantly quieter than the factory version. To do this, you will need to tightly connect all the components, but this work is worth the effort.
What can you make your own compressor from?
First, you will need something that can replace the receiver. A simple car camera works well for this. Next you will need to find a simple pump with a pressure gauge installed. It is needed to increase the air pressure inside the chamber. To this we add a simple awl, repair kit for the wheel and a simple nipple for the camera.
First of all, you need to make sure that the chamber is still sealed and does not leak air. If it turns out that she cannot cope with her tasks, in conditions of increased pressure the consequences can be serious.
If during the inspection you find air leaks, then the chamber needs to be sealed, and this is best done using vulcanization.
Since our camera will serve as a receiver, we will need to make another hole in it, for which we will need a simple awl. You will need to glue the nipple into it, which I talked about earlier. It will be used to supply air inside the chamber.
For correct installation the pacifier is well suited to the belt kit, which is indicated in the list necessary details. Next, unscrew the nipple and check how the air moves.
A DIY mini compressor is made according to the same principle, you will just need to take a smaller chamber, which will require a lower power pump. Such an installation will have lower productivity, but will have a certain compactness.
Peculiarities
After everything that was done earlier, you need to install the release valve on the nipple that was originally on the camera. It is necessary to relieve pressure if it rises too high. In order to check the performance of the device not only by direct use, it would not be superfluous to install an additional pressure gauge.
Otherwise, if you are painting, you will need to first do a test run, then look at the uniformity of the enamel or plain paint, and only then start working. This is not very convenient, and can be quite expensive, depending on the price of materials.
It is important to know that when checking the pressure level with a pressure gauge, its needle should not twitch. If this happens, you need to check the entire structure, as this is a sign that the air flow is not uniform.
In fact, the idea of homemade compressors and the manufacture of one does not require any superpowers. Naturally, you will need direct hands, basic skills in working with different instruments, and the main thing is the desire to do all this. If you need a compressor for professional needs, then it is better to turn to ready-made solutions.
There are many reviews that homemade compressors work more reliably and are more durable. It is important to understand that this depends primarily on who made this unit, and the materials that were used to create it are no less important.
If you want to work in your garage or shed as a hobby, and you have enough free time to do it - why not.
DIY compressor photos
Using a 12-volt compressor, you can pump up tires, remove debris and dust, blow out (clean) grill elements, inflate balls, supply compressed air to a spray gun, etc.
If the compressor is equipped with a receiver, its operating mode will be easier. After all, such a container creates a supply of compressed air, which allows you to take breaks in the operation of the compressor.
At the same time, the quality of the supplied air will increase, since the receiver equalizes the pressure, smoothes out pulsations, cools the compressed air coming from the compressor, and collects condensate.
Required accessories
Our installation will consist of two main parts: a compressor and a receiver - the fire extinguisher body. For safe and reliable operation of the device, it is important that the pressure generated by the compressor (140 psi ≈ 10 bar ≈ 10 kg/sq.cm) does not more pressure, for which the fire extinguisher body is designed (20 bar ≈ 20 kg/sq.cm).
To create an installation that operates in automatic mode, we will need the following accessories:
- a shut-off unit on the receiver with a system of threaded channels;
- safety valve;
- pressure gauge with scale in bars;
- switch pressure switch;
- valve in the form of a ball valve;
- spiral and linear hoses;
- air gun;
- 12 Volt battery;
- fittings, unions and adapters.
- keys and pliers;
- drill and crimper (means for crimping wire lugs);
- hacksaw and scissors;
- O-rings and FUM tape;
- knitting wire and double-sided tape;
- piece plastic pipe.
Making a receiver from a fire extinguisher housing for a 12 V compressor
It is better to choose a fire extinguisher with a large volume for the receiver. In this case, its efficiency when working in tandem with a compressor will be higher.
Next, we unscrew the shut-off valve with a hose, shake out its contents from the body (usually this is a substance based on ammonium phosphates, as it is the cheapest, but there may be other compositions).
Then we wash the inside of the fire extinguisher body clean water repeatedly. Wipe the outside of the container with a clean cloth and dry the inside with a hair dryer.
Receiver equipment
Before this stage of work, we once again compare the characteristics of the compressor and the former fire extinguisher housing, and make sure that our receiver will meet the capabilities of the compressor in all respects.
We screw a locking assembly with a central channel and four threaded side holes into the neck of the metal container.
We screw a safety valve into one of the side channels, adjusting it to a lower opening pressure.
Of the two available pressure gauges, select the one that is calibrated in bar pressure units, and also screw it into the other side channel on the locking unit.
In the two remaining channels we screw in an adapter and a pressure switch - the main element of the automation system, which turns on the compressor when the pressure in the receiver becomes less than the operating one.
We screw a ball valve into the shut-off unit from above to supply compressed air from the receiver or its shut-off.
Next, using a set of rubber rings, FUM tape and keys, we seal and strengthen the joints of all elements with the locking unit and the latter with the body of the future receiver.
It remains to screw onto the ball valve, also using an O-ring and FUM tape, an adapter for installing a spiral hose, at the other end of which a tool powered by compressed air (we have a pneumatic gun) will be attached through the same adapter.
Compressor piping
We first check its functionality by connecting it to a 12-volt battery and make sure that everything is in order with it.We put a hose adapter on the compressor outlet fitting. We seal using FUM tape and firmly tighten the hex connector with keys.
We install the compressor on the receiver in the place where it will later be fixed. We cut off the hose at the outlet with scissors, leaving a small extension onto which we put a plastic rectangular fitting. It is necessary to give the desired direction to the hose that will come out of it and connect to the adapter on the receiver. Between the last two parts, a hexagonal connector is cut into the hose - also known as check valve.
Installing the compressor on the receiver
We glue strips of double-sided tape onto the supporting surfaces of the compressor base. This will allow you to pre-fix the nodes relative to each other, and further promote the strength of the connection.Then, using pliers and a binding wire, which we pass through the holes in the base, firmly screw the compressor to the receiver.
Manufacturing of the installation support part
To do this, you will need a piece of plastic pipe comparable in size to the outer diameter of the receiver. Using a hacksaw, cut three rings of equal width from the pipe.
We make a cross-section in two rings so that they can be put on the receiver. Cut the third ring into two equal parts. They, in fact, will be the “legs” of our installation.
In two rings, at points diametrically opposite to the cuts, we drill holes using a drill. We do the same in the half rings in their center.
We connect rings with half rings in pairs using screws and a drill, screwing in the hardware from the side of the split full ring.
On inner part We glue the split rings, covering the heads of the screws, with a strip of double-sided tape to fix the rings on the bottom of the receiver body.
We install the rings on the receiver, spreading them along the cut. To firmly fix the rings on the surface of the receiver, we also glue a strip under each end of the ring, starting from the cut and below.
Selecting pressure in the receiver and setting the relay
After connecting the hoses and turning on the compressor, we check the pressure build-up in the receiver using a pressure gauge and the operation of the installation using a pneumatic gun when the power is turned off. Relieve the pressure in the receiver using safety valve by pulling the ring on the rod.
We cut one strand of the wire from the compressor and connect its ends to the pressure switch using lugs and a crimper. We turn on the compressor again and make sure that the pressure in the receiver increases.
Simple air compressor, with which you can perform painting work or inflate car tires, you can make it yourself from scrap materials. A homemade compressor will work no worse than its factory-made counterparts, and the costs of its manufacture will be minimal.
You can make a mini compressor for connecting a spray gun or airbrush from a car pump, improving it a little. Modernizing the compressor will increase its power (performance) and will consist of adapting it to a voltage of 220 V (instead of 12 V), connecting the device to the receiver and installing automation.
Adaptation of the device to 220 V voltage
To connect the car pump to a 220 V network, you will need to find some power supply (PSU), the output of which will be 12 V and the current strength suitable for the device.
Advice! A power supply from a computer is well suited for this purpose.
You can find out the current consumed by the device by looking at its nameplate. In this case, the power supply from the PC (see figure above) will be quite sufficient in terms of current and voltage.
So, if you plug the electrical cord into your PC's power supply and turn it on, nothing will happen. This is explained by the fact that the power supply will not turn on until it receives a signal from the PC. To simulate turning on a PC, on the connector coming out of the power supply, you need insert the jumper. You will need to find among the many conductors one wire that is green and the other wire that is black, as shown in the following photo.
These wires can be cut and twisted, but it is better to short them with a jumper.
Since the car pump has plug for connecting to the car cigarette lighter, then you can cut it off and connect the device with the corresponding color wires from the power supply.
But it will be better if you buy a car cigarette lighter and connect it to the power supply, and connect the device itself using a standard plug.
There are 3 wires coming out of the cigarette lighter: red – “+”, black – “-” and yellow – “+”, intended for connecting the LED. Connect the conductors to the cigarette lighter, observing the polarity (see photo below).
If you insert the plug from the device into the cigarette lighter, you will get a 220 V electric air compressor, capable of not only inflating tires, but also working with an airbrush.
Connecting additional elements
To connect the device to the receiver, you need to assemble the structure shown in the diagram below.
This harness includes the following elements.
- Cross, having all outputs with BP1/2. The marking means: “BP” - internal thread, “1/2” - thread diameter in inches.
- Tee, has all outlets with HP1/2 (“HP” - external thread).
- Valves in the amount of 2 pcs. (BP1/2 – BP1/2). Designed to block air movement in both directions. Double marking means that there is an internal thread on both sides of the valve.
- . Designed to allow air to flow in one direction only. You can install a simple spring valve BP1/2 – BP1/2. If you plan to work with a pressure of 6-7 bar, then it is necessary to select a check valve that does not have plastic parts.
- Straight nipple, is an adapter with 2 external threads (HP1/2).
- Adapter nipple HP1/2 – HP1/4. Allows you to change from one external thread diameter to another.
- Extension(60 mm) HP1/2 – HP1/2. This is the same nipple, only straight. That is, the thread at both ends has the same diameter.
- Transitional coupling. It is an adapter from an internal thread of the same diameter to internal thread with another. In this case, from BP1/2 to BP1/8.
- Tee, having all outputs already with HP1/8 thread.
- Straight coupling VR1/8 – VR1/8. Has 2 identical internal threads.
- Hose adapter HP1/8.
- Pressure regulator (pressostat) with moisture-oil separator. The pressure switch allows you to maintain the air pressure in the receiver not lower than the minimum and not higher than the maximum permissible level. A moisture separator may not be installed if the unit will be used as a tire inflator. When using the unit for painting, installing a moisture-oil separator is a must.
The above piping diagram assumes 2 outlet fittings: the first for venting air to the spray gun (airbrush), and the second for inflating tires.
- Adapter nipple HP1/4 – HP1/8.
- Futorka(HP1/4 – BP1/8), is an adapter with larger diameter external thread to a smaller diameter internal thread.
- Pressure gauges. These devices allow you to visually monitor the level of air pressure in the receiver and at the supply to the main line.
When assembling all elements it is necessary use thread sealant , for example, fum tape. Pressure gauges can be connected via hose pieces high pressure. The latter should be pulled onto the adapters and secured with clamps.
Pressure gauges can be screwed directly onto the thread, without using hoses, if you do not need to display them on the front panel of the unit.
What the compressor piping looks like when assembled according to the diagram is shown in the following photo.
The receiver for an auto compressor can be made from metal pipe large diameter, welded on both sides, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder. If the compressor is supposed to work only with an airbrush, then a regular tubeless wheel from a passenger car can serve as the receiver.
Important! When selecting a container for the receiver, you should take into account the fact that the car pump can operate for no more than 10 minutes. continuously. Accordingly, the volume of the receiver should be small (about 20 liters) so that the device can raise the air pressure in it to the required level before 10 minutes have passed.
A simple version of the unit from a fire extinguisher/gas cylinder
Making a compressor with your own hands using a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder as a storage tank for air is quite simple. For example, the compressor unit itself, if you need to make powerful unit, you can take from a Zilov compressor. But first it needs a little tweaking.
You should drill 2 holes in each connecting rod (assembled, together with the liners) and 1 hole in each connecting rod cap.
When the unit is operating, the oil in the crankcase will flow through these holes to the liners and reduce friction between them and the crankshaft.
If you take fire extinguisher for receiver, then you first need to remove all unnecessary parts from it, leaving only the container itself and the lid.
The cast iron lid should be threaded to ¼ inch. It is also necessary to place a rubber gasket under the cast iron lid, if it was not there, and tighten the lid, using fum tape to seal the threads.
The steps to connect all the strapping elements were described at the beginning of the article. But, since this unit is made from a ZIL 130 compressor, and is more powerful than the one previously considered, it will require the installation of a safety (emergency) valve. It will release excess pressure if for some reason the automation does not work.
You can also do gas cylinder compressor. But first you need to release the gas from the cylinder, and then tighten the valve. Next, you need to completely fill the cylinder with water to remove any remaining gas. The container should be rinsed with water several times and, if possible, dried. Usually installed under the cylinder gas burner and evaporate all moisture from the container.
A fitting is screwed into the hole where the valve was placed, and a crosspiece is screwed into it, to which the automation and the entire harness are attached. It is necessary to drill a hole in the lower part of the cylinder and weld a fitting to it to drain the condensate. You can install a regular water tap on the fitting.
For mounting on the receiver of the engine and compressor block, it is made frame made of metal corner. The mounting bolts are first welded to the cylinder. The frame will be attached to them (see photo below).
Important! The engine for this unit should have a power of about 1.3 -2.2 kW.
You can also make your own compressor for inflating tires. from a chainsaw which cannot be repaired. The device is made from an engine, that is, from a piston block: the output hose is connected through a check valve instead of a spark plug, and the exhaust gas hole is closed. To rotate the crankshaft, you can use either an electric motor or a conventional electric drill.
An air compressor made from a refrigerator, or rather, from its unit, is the quietest. But you should know that such a device is not different high performance . With its help, you can only inflate car tires or work with an airbrush. For the normal operation of various pneumatic tools (screwdriver, grinder, spray gun, etc.), the performance of this unit is not enough, even if you connect a large volume receiver to it. Although on the Internet you can find designs consisting of two or three compressors connected in series, connected to a large receiver.
So, the unit removed from the refrigerator has starting relay with power cord. Also coming out of the device are 3 copper tubes. Two of them are intended for air inlet and outlet, and the third (soldered) is for oil filling. If you turn on the device for a short time, you can determine which of the two tubes sucks in air and which one blows it out.
The following figure shows how to assemble the entire structure, consisting of a unit, a receiver and a pressure regulator with a pressure gauge.
Advice! Instead of an outlet filter, which sometimes bursts due to high pressure, it is better to install a moisture-oil separator. Its presence is mandatory if the device will be used for painting.
Installed on the inlet tube air filter to prevent dust from getting inside the unit. To automate the air pumping process, you can install automation in the form of a pressure switch.
DIY high pressure compressor
The high pressure compressor (HP) is made from two-stage compressor head AK-150.
As a drive you can take 380 V motor 4 kW. The rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the piston group shaft using an eccentric, which also serves as a drive for a plunger-type oil pump. It creates an oil pressure of about 2 kgf/cm2.
Compressed air, leaving the last stage, enters through an adapter with an installed pressure gauge into the fitting of a liter cylinder, which is installed in its lower part. A valve for draining condensate is also installed here. The cylinder is filled with polished glass chips and acts as a moisture-oil separator.
Air exits from the top of the cylinder through a finger fitting. Compressor cooling is aquatic. After 45 min. When the unit operates, the water heats up to 70 degrees. The author of this unit claims that during this time you can pump 1 8-liter cylinder and 2 4-liter cylinders to 260 atm.
A compressor is a necessary device on a household. Making it yourself is not very easy, but it is possible. And for this you will need improvised means, as well as small things from the building materials store.
Materials
For creating homemade compressor From the fire extinguisher you will need:
- fire extinguisher OHP-10 with a volume of 10.5 liters (as a receiver);
- pressure switch PM5, designed for water, but also suitable for air;
- two moisture separator filters;
- one automobile fuel, fine purification;
- adapters;
- crosses;
- reinforced PVC hose with an internal diameter of 10 mm.
See the photo for everything included in the set. I also purchased a valve (at first I thought that I would use it to regulate the pressure, and that it was no different from a reducer).
After I figured out that the valve and the reducer are still somewhat different things, I bought a reducer with a pressure gauge, and a separate pressure gauge to measure the pressure inside the receiver. We also purchased a thin silicone hose from a pet store, costing 10 rubles per meter. It is very flexible, light and durable, there is nothing better for an airbrush feeder.
And of course, where would we be without FUM tape, which is sold in any plumbing store.
Step 1. First of all, screw the balloon to the base. We take out all the stuff from the lid, and from inside the fire extinguisher, we leave only the cylinder itself and the lid.
Step 2. In the hole in the cast iron lid we cut a pipe thread, 1/4 inch. We also wrap FUM tape around the wide thread on the cylinder, make a rubber gasket (in theory there should be one, I had one too, but I put it somewhere, and in the end I cut it out myself from a car inner tube; after construction, I found an original one) and screw it on cast iron lid.
Step 3. Screw an adapter from 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP into the hole in the cover.
Step 5. We screw the pressure switch into the crosspiece through the 1/2HP-1/4HP adapter, and screw in the 1/2HP-1/2HP adapter from the side.
Step 7. To it on one side we screw a gearbox with a 1/4HP thread through a 1/2HP-1/4BP adapter.
Step 8. From the other end, also through the 1/2HP-1/4VN adapter, we screw a pressure gauge, which has a 1/4HP thread. On the opposite side of the cross we screw in a valve (to bleed air from the cylinder), which has a 1/2 HP thread.
Step 9. We screw a filter-moisture separator to the gearbox, which has a 1/4 HP thread and fits directly to the gearbox. The nuance here is that the filter must be positioned correctly (maintain the top and bottom), and make sure that there is a drain hole at the lowest point.
Step 10. Next, we make a line for another filter, from the inlet side there is a 1/2BP fitting, which is connected through an adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP, screw it onto the filter having a 1/4HP thread. I was a little tricky with the outlet hole, because there were extra parts, and there were some missing ones, so in the end it turned out like this.
Step 11. A 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter is screwed into the hole in the 1/4HP filter, a tee is screwed onto it (I had an extra one), on one side of which a plug with 1/2HP is screwed in, on the other side of the tee opposite the filter a fitting is screwed in 1/2HP.
ATTENTION: I did it so cleverly because there were extra parts, so that you don’t make this mistake, do this: a 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter is screwed into the outlet hole, and a fitting for the hose with a 1/2HP thread is screwed onto it. The layout below will be given specifically for this option.
Step 12. Next, a reinforced hose is ideally suited to the hole with an external thread of unknown cross-section and pitch (I couldn’t find it) that comes out of the fire extinguisher as an outlet nozzle, which we secure on top with a clamp.
Step 13. At the other end of the hose we insert the fitting from the filter and also secure it with a clamp.
Step 14. Next, we again insert the reinforced hose from the incoming fitting of the filter and connect it to the outlet tube of the compressor. I think you can figure out how to secure this goodness there. I have a cunning system of several gaskets there and everything is clamped on top with a clamp.
Step 15. Finally, we screw a 1/4HP fitting into the outlet hole of the 1/4HP filter, onto which we place a silicone tube that fits almost perfectly on it, and does not even require compression with a clamp, the second end of the tube is already connected to the airbrush.
Since the pressure after the reducer is small compared to the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any effort. At the inlet of the compressor, as I already said, a car filter is installed to clean the air.
Regarding the oil change, there are three pipes coming out of the compressor. one is inlet, the other is output, the third is sealed and is for adding oil. So we bite it off with pliers, but be careful not to get sawdust inside, otherwise the motor may be finished.
Drain the oil from there. I honestly didn’t measure how much I drained, but it was something like a glass. I poured back in 10W40 car oil, about 350 grams in volume. Automotive oil the better, which, firstly, has a bunch of additives that protect the engine, and secondly, unlike spindle oil, it does not “absorb” moisture.
What to buy where
1) A compressor from a refrigerator - either screw it together or buy it from organizations that repair refrigerators. I have no idea how much it might cost there, I wasn’t interested.
2) Receiver (fire extinguisher) - get it from an enterprise or organization, you can write it off, or buy it, I heard that the price for this is about 200 rubles
3) Pressure switch - 250 rubles, in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.
5) Reinforced hose with internal dia. 10 mm - 55 rubles/meter, I bought two meters at the car market, although one would have been enough.
6) Silicone hose - 10 rubles/m, pet store, bought three meters.
7) Air filters-moisture separators - 170 rubles per piece, at the car market, bought a pair.
8) Automotive fine gasoline filter - 35 rubles, car market.
9) Cross - 1 piece
- Tee - 1 piece.
- Valve - 1 piece.
- Adapter 1/2НР-1/2НР - 1 piece.
- Adapter 1/2HP-1/4HP - 3 pcs.
- Adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP - 3 pcs.
- fitting 1/2VR - 2 pcs.
- Fitting 1/4HP - 1 pc.
All this is bought in plumbing stores, and in total it will cost about 500 rubles.
10) Pressure gauge - 1 piece, 90 rubles in a store selling heaters, water pumps, and other plumbing products.
11) FUM tape - 12 rubles, in any plumbing store.
12) Clamps - 5-10 rubles/piece. 6 pieces (or better yet 8 just in case), at the car market.
Amount: 1897 rubles.
Agree, not so bad! This does not cover screws, bolts, angles, etc. elements with which you will attach the receiver and compressor to the base.
Note: male thread - male thread, female thread - female thread!
Do it yourself small compressor It's very easy for an airbrush. For these purposes, you will need a small air compressor, as well as a container in which air under pressure will accumulate, in other words, a receiver. For this homemade product, the author used a compressor from a refrigerator as a compressor. As for the receiver, the OHP-10 fire extinguisher was perfect for these purposes, the volume of which, when measured, turned out to be 10.5 liters instead of the declared 8.5 liters; the fire extinguisher was obtained almost free of charge. The homemade product cost the author no more than 2,000 rubles.
Materials and tools for homemade work:
- fire extinguisher OHP-10 or another suitable one;
- pressure switch PM5;
- two moisture separator filters;
- one fuel filter;
- reinforced PVC hose (internal diameter 10 mm);
- gearbox with pressure gauge;
- pressure gauge for measuring the pressure inside the receiver;
- FUM tape;
- pliers, wrenches and other tools.
Airbrush manufacturing process:
Step one. Preparing the fire extinguisher
The first step is to empty the fire extinguisher of its contents. This must be done in an open area.
Now you get an empty cylinder; you need to screw it to the base. This process will not work for anyone a lot of work.
All contents must be removed from the lid, including the fire extinguisher. As a result, there should be a cylinder and a lid.
Step two. Homemade assembly
The cast iron cap needs to be threaded to 1/4 inch pipe threads. You need to wrap FUM tape around the wide thread of the cylinder for tightness, and also make a rubber gasket if the original one is lost or damaged. It can be made from a car camera. Well, then the cast iron lid is screwed on.
Then a 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP inch adapter is screwed into the hole in the cover. Then you need to screw on the 1/2-inch cross. Of course, all connections must be sealed using FUM tape.
You need to screw a pressure switch into the adapter with 1/2HP-1/4HP, and the adapter 1/2HP-1/2HP is also screwed into the side.
The author screws the tee on the side.
Subsequently, a reducer is screwed to the tee using a 1/2HP-1/4BP adapter; it has a 1/4HP thread.
On the other hand, again through the 1/2HP-1/4VN adapter, a pressure gauge is screwed on, it also has a 1/4HP thread. It is necessary to screw in a valve on the opposite side of the cylinder, with the help of which air will be released from the cylinder. The valve has a 1/2 HP thread.
A water separator filter needs to be connected to the gearbox; a 1/4 HP thread is used here. It is important to install a filter under right angle. The drain hole should be at the lowest point.
Then you need to make another filter line. On the side of the inlet hole there is a 1/2BP fitting connected through an adapter 1/2HP-1/4BP. It needs to be screwed onto the filter, which has a 1/4 HP thread. What should happen in the end can be seen in the photo.
You need to screw a 1/4HP-1/2HP adapter into the hole of the 1/4HP filter, and then screw a tee to it. On one side the tee is plugged with a 1/2 HP plug, and on the opposite side a 1/2 HP fitting is screwed in.
Step three. Final stage of assembly
Now you need to take a reinforced hose and screw it onto the fitting coming out of the fire extinguisher, which acts as a nozzle. The hose is secured with a clamp. On the other side, a fitting from the filter is inserted into the hose, and it is also secured with a clamp.
After this, the hose is again connected to the filter and connected to the compressor tube. Everything is tightened with clamps.
On final stage a similar fitting must be screwed into the outlet hole of the 1/4BP filter. A silicone tube fits perfectly onto it and doesn’t even need to be secured with a clamp. Well, the other end is connected directly to the airbrush.
Due to the fact that the pressure behind the reducer is small, compared with the receiver, the tube can withstand it without any problems.
