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Handmade pocket knife. A very simple homemade folding knife How to make a clamshell knife

How to make a simple folding knife with your own hands. Folding knife made of Damascus steel with your own hands. Damascus steel manufacturing at home. I bring to your attention a high-quality, stylish, unique knife self made from Damascus steel. We will make steel with our own hands by forging. This knife is a folding, friction type, the design is very simple, but this does not prevent the knife from doing its job perfectly. It will not be a shame to give such a knife as a valuable gift, or even it can be sold for solid money. So, let's take a closer look at how you can make such a knife! Materials and tools used by the author:

List of materials:
- brass rod (for pin);
- wood for the handle (walnut);
- borax;
- iron chloride;
- rapeseed oil;
- a blade from a lawn mower and a file (for a blade);
- screw with nut (for the axis of the blade);
- epoxy adhesive;
- oil for impregnation, etc.

List of tools:
- blacksmith furnace, anvil and hammer;
- welding machine(preferably);
- orbital sander;
- vice;
- Bulgarian;
- drill or drilling machine;
- jigsaw;
- hacksaw for metal;
- clamps;
- pencil and more.

Knife making process:
Step one. A few words about Damascus steel

Damascus steel is a mixture of steels of various grades. They are mixed by heating, that is, during forging. Further, when a blade is forged from this mixture, it is then immersed in acid. Thanks to chemical reaction each steel grade darkens differently, one is lighter, the other is darker. As a result, interesting patterns are obtained on the blade. The main point is to find an interesting mixture of metals that will look good. Also, do not forget that the steel for the knife must be durable.

The author decided to use a lawn mower knife as a material, as well as old file. The resulting Damascus steel, when mixed, is called "Twisted Damascus". The steel of the file after etching will be darker, and the steel from the lawnmower blade will be lighter.



Step two. Preparing the workpiece for forging
We take a file, as well as a lawn mower knife. You will need to cut them into about 4 pieces of equal length to get 8 layers. In general, the more layers of metal in Damascus steel, the more interesting it looks. One piece should be long, this will be the handle that you will hold onto while forging.

All plates must be connected into one single block, it is best to grab them by welding. If there is no welding, we clamp the workpiece in a vice, and then twist it well with steel wire. That's it, now the workpiece is ready for the next step!











Step three. blacksmith work
We send the workpiece to the forging furnace, and heat it to the desired temperature. The steel should become soft like plasticine. Then we remove the workpiece, clamp the tip in a vise and twist it. Thus, we mix the layers of metals together.























Step four. First grinding
We work as a grinder, cut off the excess, grind the workpiece. The author's strip turned out to be so long that it was enough to make two knives.









Step five. We make a blade
You can start making a blade. First, the author decided to dip the workpiece in ferric chloride for 10 minutes to see what the drawing would turn out to be. Finally, neutralize the acid with baking soda.



We cut out a rough profile with the help of a grinder, where we use grinding discs. As a result, you will have to modify the blade with files, sandpaper and drill a hole for the mount.























Step six. heat treatment
Now the blade needs to be hardened so that it keeps sharpening for a long time. For this, the author used gas burner, but a blacksmith's furnace is also quite suitable. Calim the blade red-hot and cool in vegetable oil. Next, you will need to do more metal tempering so that the steel is not brittle. We take the burner and warm the blade to a straw color, let it cool in the air. The same procedure can be carried out in a conventional household oven.
Finally, sand the blade with sandpaper and polish.









Step seven. Blade etching
To etch the blade, iron chloride will be needed. Depending on the etching time, the pattern will be different. The author first immersed the blade for one hour, and then polished it with 2000 grit sandpaper, and then etched again. In general, everything is done through experiments.





Step eight. Making a pen
Choose beautiful, valuable wood for the handle and cut two halves. Drill two holes, one for the mounting axle and one for the locking pin. As a fixing pin, the author decided to use a brass rod.































Step nine. Assembling the knife
Using epoxy glue, glue the fixing pin into the handle. We select the desired gap so that the blade enters with a small gap and does not hang out. To fasten the blade, the author used a nut with a screw.

Check if everything works correctly.



























At the end, we impregnate the handle with oil, this will protect the wood and make it more beautiful. If desired, the handle can be polished, so it will look even better.

All you have to do is sharpen your blade. Here you will need a special sharpener Or even regular sandpaper.
That's all, a wonderful knife is ready! Share your opinions.















Attention!!! This homemade product is posted for informational purposes only.
It is forbidden to create and use as edged weapons, according to Article 223.4 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation, imprisonment of up to two years is threatened!

Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, we mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, already guided by it, we make further marking of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can lead to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.

Transferring the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind with the help of a grinder and emery along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade in the process of removing the descents, the blade itself is not cut off from the workpiece yet and the heel of the blade is not formed.

For the removal of descents, you can use various tools: grinders, emery, flat grinders, grinders. I do a rough turning of the slopes on emery and a fine one on a flat grinder.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of side dies.

Next, we drill a hole in the dies for the pin of the blade stopper, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and proceed to cut it.

Having prepared the ribs in this way, we proceed to their installation on the dies. Various methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.

For soldering, you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in a burner flame. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering points. It is cleaned with sandpaper, a file. After stripping, we coat the soldering points with acid, take, on a well-heated soldering iron, a piece of solder and tin the surface. In the process of tinning, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps left and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.

After tinning, rinse the parts well in water with soda, removing acid residues. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vise and begin to warm up with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, it is necessary to lay a thermally insulating material under the vise jaws; fragments of ceramic tiles are well suited. As it warms up, we tighten the vise until droplets of solder come out between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.

Soldering the right tack has some peculiarities: first, we solder the axis of the knife into the die, and then solder the tack, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the axis of diameter.


So, all the components of the knife are ready, it remains to assemble the knife, once again make sure that the lock is working correctly. Adjust if necessary. For smoother operation of the mechanism, it should be lubricated with engine oil. After some time of operation, the parts of the mechanism should be rubbed in, the blade will rotate easily and smoothly, the liner plate will rise slightly.



Knife - very useful tool, they can defend themselves, sharpen a stick, cut sausage or use instead of a screwdriver if necessary. In order for the knife to be always with you, it must either have a protective cover or must be folded. The second option is more convenient, since such a knife will be more compact, and you will not be able to lose the case. Folding knives come in a wide variety of designs, we will consider the simplest of them.
The author decided to make the handle of his knife exclusively from wood. This material is available and easy to work with. The author used only hand tools. The main focus of the article is on the manufacture of the handle. You can find a blade either ready-made from an old knife, or you can grind it yourself, it's not difficult. So, let's start making a knife.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- blank for the blade;
- wooden plank;
- steel rod (as an axis for the blade);
- glue for wood;
- electrical tape;
- oil for impregnation.

List of tools:

- jigsaw;
- a hacksaw for wood;
- drill;
- marker;
- planer;
- sandpaper;
- files;
- vice;
- clamps.

Knife making process:

Step one. Cut out blanks for the handle
To make a handle, you need a piece of board. You can use different types of trees according to your preferences. But just remember that more hard rocks will be more difficult to handle. We will cut the board lengthwise into two halves, as a result we will get two blanks. Here you will need to correctly consider the thickness of the board.







The blade is applied to the board and circled. Now we know how long the handle should be in order for the blade to go into it. Consider also the location of the locking pin and so on.

Having done everything necessary calculations, clamp the board in a vise in a vertical position and proceed to cutting. The author first outlines the cut line with a jigsaw, and then a hacksaw with a wide blade comes to the rescue. Slowly, slowly, cut the board into two halves.

Step two. We manufacture and install the axis of the blade
The blade is attached to the handle with a single metal axis. We are looking for a rod that is suitable in diameter and cut off the desired piece. We drill a hole in the blade of such a diameter that the axis fits snugly into the hole. The blade should not dangle on the axis.



Step three. We finalize the halves of the handle
After the board was sawn into two parts, we got two halves. Each of them needs to be properly aligned and sanded, since after cutting the parts will have a lot of irregularities. You can level them with a planer or by grinding, which is safer. At the end, sand the parts with sandpaper so that they become perfectly smooth.



Step four. Internal brace
Between the two halves there is another piece of wood, with the help of which we get the desired gap. We select the gap in accordance with the thickness of the blade. The main idea is that the blade fits snugly into the handle and does not fall out. There are no additional fasteners here. Also, this part will act as a stop for the blade. Use a dense wood for this part, like oak, maple, and so on.





Step five. Drilling axle holes
Attach the blade to the workpiece and drill holes for the axle. It should be inserted tightly into the part. Try to collect all the parts in a heap and make sure that all the parts are made correctly. The blade must not spontaneously fall out of the handle. If so, you need to reduce the gap between the halves of the handle.







Step six. Gluing
Epoxy glue is suitable for gluing, but the author decided to use wood glue, it is also quite enough here. We apply glue to the "spacer" on both sides, and then glue the halves to it on the sides. As for the axis on which the blade rests, it is highly desirable to apply epoxy glue to it before assembly, so that it will adhere securely to the handle. But be careful, if the glue sticks to the blade, you may not open the knife after it's made.

We clamp the whole thing with several clamps and let the glue dry completely. Epoxy dries for about a day, it is better to take about the same amount of time for wood glue.







Step seven. Final processing
When the glue dries, remove the clamps. You now need to cut off the protruding parts of the axis, for this we use a hacksaw.
At the end, you will have to form the desired profile of your pen. This can be done manually, as the sizes here are small. We take files and form the desired profile. Then we switch to sandpaper. Finally, we use the finest sandpaper to bring the product to the ideal.

At the same step, you can sharpen the blade, fine sandpaper dipped in water is perfect for this.



Step eight. Impregnation
Wood is a very insidious material, it instantly changes in size, cracks, deforms if moisture gets on it. To avoid these unpleasant consequences the tree needs to be protected. It will save you here linseed oil or any other designed for wood processing. Do not use mineral oils as they do not dry out. We impregnate the handle everywhere, both outside and inside. Let the oil dry. Instead of oil, you can also easily use varnish.








That's all, the manufacture of the knife has come to an end. As a result, we have a small convenient pocket knife ik. Do not forget that the handle is made of wood, so the knife will not be able to withstand a high load on the blade. However, for most household work, its strength should be enough. That's all, good luck and take care!

Dec 21, 2018 Gennady

Today, buying a folding knife is not at all difficult, since such a product is not only presented in a huge assortment, it is also sold in many retail stores, as well as on Internet sites. But, despite this, every day the number of people who want to make handmade folding knife. This is due to the fact that homemade folding knives are unique and a person can customize it as much as possible to suit their preferences. Moreover, in the process of self-manufacturing a knife, a person can use any materials, which will make the device reliable and durable.

Before you start making your own folding knife, you need to clearly define the following indicators:

  • what will be the shape of the future knife;
  • what material will be used for its manufacture;
  • what design will the future knife have;
  • what will be the design of the knife.

DIY folding knives can be made of any material and have any shape, the main thing is to adhere to the established standards in the manufacture. When choosing materials for a knife, it is necessary to give preference to the most durable and strong material. For the blade, stainless steel with high hardness or Damascus steel is suitable. After all, most people prefer it of stainless steel, since it is easier to make a knife out of it and, unlike Damascus steel, it is resistant to corrosion.

In addition to materials, for the manufacture of a knife, it is necessary to prepare tools that may be required in the process of performing the work. It should be noted that during the manufacture simple option folding knife you will need the simplest tools at hand. Special attention should be paid to the choice of material for the handle, since it must be not only reliable and durable, but also convenient to use. That is, it is necessary to think over the shape of the handle correctly so that it is securely fixed in the hand and does not slip out. Having decided on the most convenient form of the handle, you need to choose the material from which it will be most convenient to perform it.

Making a folding knife can be made using handle materials such as hardwoods natural wood, impact-resistant plastic or metal. And, of course, planning independent production knife, you need to think about the mechanism of its folding. Moreover, the mechanisms of the knife must be treated with extreme caution and everything must be thought out for the smallest details, since an incorrectly executed mechanism can cause injury during the use of the knife. Before starting work on the manufacture of a folding knife, you need to make sure that all necessary materials prepared.

folding knife mockup

So, if a person is interested in a question, how to assemble a folding knife, then it is possible to do this even without special skills. The main thing in this process is to take into account all the established parameters and adhere to all the rules for performing such a process. The first thing to do, starting with the manufacture of a knife, is to sketch the future fixture on paper. You can also use special graphic editors. by the most the best options for cutting a template for the future blade of a knife, cardboard is used, since it is more durable than paper. Moreover, all the components of the future knife can be cut out of cardboard, and then fasten the cardboard blade and the handle with a screw and nut, for this you need to cut a hole in the cardboard for the axis. This approach will help to understand how proportional the elements of the knife are, and how the manufactured fixture will close.

In addition, the execution of a cardboard model of the knife will help to correctly fit the shape of the heel of the blade, and this part, as you know, is extremely important for comfortable and practical use of the knife. You can find out how the supporting part of the heel should look like by viewing folding knife do it yourself video. The video will help make sure that the heel of the blade is really made correctly and has the required bevel angle, the angle of 7-9 0 is considered optimal. After that, it is necessary to sketch a linear knife lock, as you know, it is based on three points that form a triangle. Each point of the linear lock has its own purpose:

  • to install the pivot pin;
  • for mounting a corkscrew pin;
  • the contact zone of the supporting planes of the heel of the blade and the pressure plate, that is, the stopper.

It is worth noting that it is the lateral pressure force of the stopper that fixes the blade in the closed position; there are no other elements that perform such a function in this knife design. That is why it is extremely important to mount a small steel ball from the bearing into the stopper, it will become an additional retainer for the closed blade and, accordingly, will secure the use of the knife. It is very important to choose the correct location of the ball retainer, since the functioning of the entire knife lock depends on it.

Having marked the location of the ball retainer on the cardboard mock-up of the blade and the locking spring, you need to make sure that it will fit tightly there and will not interfere with the folding of the knife. After that, it is necessary to decide on the fasteners that will tighten the dies together. It is not recommended to use fasteners with large heads and place them too close to the edge of the handle. This is due to the fact that subsequently it may be necessary to install a spacer or tubular racks between the mounts.

How to make a folding knife with your own hands

After the cardboard layout of the future knife is ready and all its elements meet the standards, you can begin to manufacture the device itself. On this stage material for the future knife and tools that may be useful in the process of its manufacture should already be prepared. As already stated, optimal material stainless steel is considered to be used for making a knife blade, since it will not rust even if moisture gets inside the fold.

For drilling holes in hardened steel, it is best to use ceramic or glass drills. It is very important to drill at low speeds, while applying little effort. If you approach the process of drilling holes in the workpiece irresponsibly, then you can simply erase the drills without achieving the desired result. In order to prevent the steel from sinking, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of its heating and often cool the part.

As for the dies, it is better to use titanium for them, since, even with a small thickness, this material has high strength indicators. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not corrode, which is also important for a folding knife. Processing titanium and giving it desired shape, it is also recommended to work at low speed grinders, you can even use hand saw for metal.

In order to make a folding knife, the next thing to do is to cut out the contours of the corkscrew spring, which will be located at the bottom of the die. In the intended place of the end of the die, it is necessary to drill holes with diameters of not more than 2.5 millimeters, there should be 3-4 such holes. After making holes, they need to be connected and a hacksaw blade should be brought there. The next step will be sawing the stopper line, but when performing this procedure, it is necessary to leave a small margin, which is removed during the process of setting up and checking the finished knife.

As for the bottom die, it often has the same dimensions as the top one, but there is one difference: in the bottom die, you need to make a special recess, under the hole for opening the knife. Another difference between the top and bottom plates is the diameter of the screw hole. In the lower die, such holes must be made for the screw thread, while the diameters of the holes in the upper die must have the screw diameter. After all the details have been cut out and all the holes have been drilled, it is necessary to make or pick up two small washers. Washers made of bronze or fluoroplast are considered the most optimal. Such washers will act as a bearing, and are attached to the axis of rotation of the knife.

The next step in the manufacture of the knife will be its direct assembly. You need to do this in turn:

  • insert the axle into the lower die;
  • put a locking pin;
  • install the washer;
  • put the blade and assemble the knife together.

If any inaccuracies arose during the assembly process, but they need to be eliminated, for example, if the parts of the knife do not match, then they need to be adjusted in place. After the knife is assembled, it is necessary to install the corkscrew ball. To do this, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corkscrew spring, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.1-0.2 mm, that is, it must be smaller than its ball. The average size of a bearing ball is 1.5-2 mm. The ball is pressed into the locking plate using a vise, while it should protrude to the surface by about half a millimeter.

After the ball is installed, it is necessary to determine the place of its contact with the wedge, for this it is enough to close and open the knife several times. After that, a trace will remain on the knife blade, stepping back from the edge of the trace 0.3 millimeters, it is necessary to make a small hole, into which the ball will enter when the knife is closed. In order to set and test the functionality of the knife lock, it is initially recommended to assemble the fixture without the top die. If everything works properly, you can fully assemble the knife and check its operation already in the folded state.

That's all the knife is ready. As it becomes clear to do do-it-yourself folding automatic knife it may take a little time and patience.

Folding knife with your own hands. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. Folding knife do-it-yourself drawings. Friction folding knife. Author sdpskov. Hello everyone, I present to your attention the photos phased production friction type folding knife. It is difficult to call this a master class or a tutorial, much has been missed. Friction folding knives are common in countries where lockable knives are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knifemakers.

A true gourmet journey in the home country of Meissel: portraits and recipes of 25 Michelin chefs from Savoy, Haute-Savoie, Piedmont and the country of Nice, including fascinating anecdotes about the history of Savoy gastronomy by Annie Victor and illustrated photographs by Anthony Cottarela. There you will learn about the Savoy family and family, as well as modifications to production processes and the technical and commercial development of the brand. The visit ends with a film made at the seminars describing the current production processes.

With a foreword by Pavel Bokus and Michel Dejoe, the tale unfolds through the revelations of Maurice and Denis Meisel and interviews with company employees. The folding knife is one of the most common tools in America. Go to any store, sporting goods store, or outfitter in the country and you'll find several to choose from.

If, like me, we do not know how to use Coral, we draw with our hands for a long and tedious time. cut out of cardboard - fold - lay out

Friction has feature- a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the knife frame there is a locking pin against which the tail of the blade rests in the unfolded state, and a special recess in the blade, in the folded state, so that the edge of the blade does not touch the insides of the frame . well then, to the point:

With folding knives that are readily available and legal to carry in more places than a pistol, it's no surprise that everyone more people choose a folding knife as their primary self-defense tool or complement their usual concealed carry. But despite the wide range of folding knives available, not all blades are created equal. There are some outstanding records on the folder market, but also flooded with knives that are cheap, tricks, or just not good for defensive use.

Can it be opened with one hand?

If you're considering adding a folding knife to your self defense options, these are four things you need to look out for. You need a knife that can be opened with one hand. If you are fighting in the clinch, blocking a strike, holding a child, or otherwise unable to use both hands, you will only have one hand free to access and open the knife. And even if you're using the knife in a non-defensive environment, you may need to open it with one hand.

Blade making requires a separate master class. Axis and sliding washers from an unknown Chinese fold.


we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, we drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one into the other.

Does it lock with a secure locking mechanism?

The blade should lock open, without wobbling in any direction. You cannot accidentally close the knife. If you need to use your jackknife to protect yourself, adrenaline will pump you up. You and your attacker will both move and fight. When a knife is used, tremendous forces will be applied to the blade. If your locking mechanism can't handle this, you may end up with the blade closed or finger-locked.

Is blade quality steel that will have a sharp edge and is designed for penetration. The purpose of a defensive folding knife is to cut and strike. Unless your blade is heavily reliant on hard use, it won't make the cuts you need when it counts. A deeper cut is more likely to disable an attacker, and a sharper blade cuts the deepest. It is also very important that the blade profile is conducive to penetration. When your attacker is wearing heavy, thick, or even just loose clothing, thrusting can be effective and cutting becomes less reliable.


we cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a milling cutter


pretending to collect once


from thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer in the back of the handle

Is it legal to practice in areas you frequent?

Knife laws vary widely from state to state and even city to city. In fact, if you're carrying a self-defense folding knife, it might be because the fixed blade is illegal to carry in your area. There are rules about length, type, and deployment mechanisms. Some of them may be vague or vague, and many of them seem unfair. Our respect for the law is what separates us from criminals, even if we admit that some laws are stupid or arbitrary and do not deserve such respect.


we carefully estimate the whole thing many times, spit, swear


we fix the spacer in the dies, drill, insert the pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush


Make sure your knife is legal. There are many other desirable qualities in a knife. For example, you need a way to carry knives that are consistently geared towards quick access. You also want a grip that doesn't get slick when wet, whether it's sweat, blood, or water. While these things are important, they didn't make the list because they can often be dealt with after that fact. The clip is good, but straps and pocket holsters can solve the problem of carrying. The smooth handle can often be cut or dressed with a handle.

But if the knife doesn't open with one hand, it won't stay open when used hard, and won't stay sharp or penetrate a layer of clothing, this is a problem that can't be fixed. If you've ever bought a daily carry pocket knife, you'd know there are a myriad of options to choose from. Trying to understand the many types of knives and their subtle differences can be overwhelming. Of the many factors to consider when choosing something personal like a knife, its locking mechanism is one of the most important.

we make descents on the blade roughly, hardening-tempering, remove the slopes to zero + on the rhombus from above, rough assembly


grinding by hand, etching. The etching process is also missed, because it must be done separately by MK.


finally we tighten the axial screw with fixation on cyanoacrylate, we cut it roughly with a margin of lining, we drill recesses for the axle heads.

You should know what type of lock, if any, you should have depending on your needs and preferences before investing in quality knife.


Linear locks are one of the most common mechanisms found on folding knives. A characteristic component of this mechanism is a side spring bar located on the same side as the sharp edge of the blade, "lining" inner part handles. When the knife is closed, the spring bar is held under tension.


we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the foot pin, and the pins in the butt plate, similarly glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind.


When it is fully open, this tension slides down the shaft inward to make contact with the butt of the blade, holding it in place and not closing it. To disengage the liner detent, you must use your thumb to push the spring bar "down" so that it removes contact with the butt of the blade. This allows you to use forefinger pushing the blade is enough to hold the bar so that you remove your thumb from the path of the blade and then proceed to close the knife safely.

Line locks are useful in that they allow the knife to have two true sides of the handle, as opposed to a frame. You can close the knife with one hand without a switch, perfect for when you need both hands at work. You will find liner locks on both entry and high knives. This is the type of lock that both beginners and enthusiasts like.

glue the locking pin, cut it off and already grind the lining closer to the desired shape


in intimate places where you can’t clean it with a grinder (for example), we clean it with a dremel.



If you will be using the knife for heavy tasks, you should be aware that liner locks are usually not as secure as other blocking systems. They are still quite strong, but since they are usually made from a thinner piece of metal, they are more prone to wear, such as a rigid frame.


Think of a frame lock as a larger version of a liner lock. They are very similar to liner locking mechanisms, except that the inner spring band moves into place, it's part of the handle itself. Frame lock knives tend to be stronger than liner locks as the piece of metal that slides into place is more substantial than the metal liner. Due to their similarity to liner locks, closing a frame lock knife is almost the same - push down on the spring bar so it no longer blocks with the butt of the blade, remove your thumb from the path, and then fold the knife closed.


you can mat all metal elements, although this is already superfluous


As you can see, at the beginning of the process, I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to make the etching process a separate MK, because there are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, there were not enough hands. The article is taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some pictures of the finished knife.

This type of locking system puts most metal against the blade, providing strong interlock for piercing, cutting, slicing and other heavy duty tasks. Lock-locks are seen in many mid to high range knives, typically made of titanium. In the example shown here, the stainless steel insert interacts with the blade as it requires longer wear than titanium and stabilizes the stem so you don't loosen it by pushing too far. Not only do they add a unique look to the knife, but they are also easily operated with one hand.





Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, we mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, already guided by it, we make further marking of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can lead to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.


It's easy to use on one side, but also important, it's fully reversible. Here's how it works: The lock consists of a spring-tensioned rod that slides back and forth along a track cut into knife handles. To close the knife, you pull the bar towards the back of the knife using the pins thumb, and fold the blade.


Usually these knives require two hands to open and close safely. They consist of a spring bar and a specially shaped blade. To open the knife, you pull on the blade to overcome spring pressure, snapping the blade into place. To close it, make sure your fingers are out of the way of the sharp edge and lean back. Friction folders are similar, except they don't have a spring bar. Instead, the knife blade is held in place simply by friction between the blade steel and the weights of the knife.

Transferring the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind with the help of a grinder and emery along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade in the process of removing the descents, the blade itself is not cut off from the workpiece yet and the heel of the blade is not formed.

Various tools can be used to remove slopes: grinders, emery, flat grinders, grinders. I do a rough turning of the slopes on emery and a fine one on a flat grinder.

One of the main advantages of these types of knives is their legality. They are also a pleasure to carry because they are simple and easy to use. But it's worth mentioning that these knives don't have a true lock, so they're not the best for heavy duty tasks.

By now, you should be more familiar with your options in order to better choose a knife worthy of your pocket. Do you have a favorite lock type to recommend? Words and Images by Ed Jelly and Bernard Capulong. If you've seen pictures of what people carry every day, you might be wondering, "Why do so many people carry a pocketknife?" The answer is different for everyone, but it all comes back to the idea that a handy pocket knife is an indispensable tool.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of side dies.

Next, we drill a hole in the dies for the pin of the blade stopper, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and proceed to cut it.

Having a knife can also potentially save your life in an emergency or survival situation if you spend time on outdoors. However, knives can be limited depending on where you live and what your local laws are, so keep that in mind before deciding which pocket knife you can carry.

The best pocket knife for everyday carry

When choosing the best everyday carry pocket knife, there are many factors to consider: how big the knife is, how it opens, how it locks, how you will carry it, how durable it is, etc. Remember, you will need a knife that is comfortable, built, durable, safe to use, and legal to carry.

Having prepared the ribs in this way, we proceed to their installation on the dies. The methods are different: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.

For soldering, you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in a burner flame. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering points. It is cleaned with sandpaper, a file. After stripping, we coat the soldering points with acid, take, on a well-heated soldering iron, a piece of solder and tin the surface. In the process of tinning, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps left and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.

After tinning, rinse the parts well in water with soda, removing acid residues. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vise and begin to warm up with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, it is necessary to lay a thermally insulating material under the vise jaws; fragments of ceramic tiles are well suited. As it warms up, we tighten the vise until droplets of solder come out between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.

Soldering the right tack has some peculiarities: first, we solder the axis of the knife into the die, and then solder the tack, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the axis of diameter.