Winding a transformer with your own hands is a necessary skill for both a beginner and an experienced electrician or radio amateur. It is performed during such work as assembling a radio receiver, amplifier, or repairing an old transformer device. Before winding the transformer, it is important to determine for yourself the sequence of actions and testing of the device, as well as to know what materials and tools are used for this.
Figure 1. The device is based on the principle of a well gate.
What devices to use?
In factory conditions, when the industry demands from the winding process, first of all, speed and accuracy, all work is carried out using special machines. What should home craftsmen and radio amateurs do? In most cases, winding has to be done manually, which ultimately affects the accuracy of the device. The second (more preferable) option is the use of homemade winding machines. Their design is extremely simple, the presence of such a tool will greatly facilitate this routine task. When choosing the design of the device for winding, it is necessary to be guided by the following parameters:
- ease of creation and use of the device;
- smooth movement of the coil;
- the possibility of winding transformers of different sizes;
- it is desirable to have a device for counting the number of coils of wire.
Figure 2. Device from hand drill.
There are several simple devices that fully meet the stated requirements. Their manufacture does not take much time, and you can use improvised materials. Let's look at these options below.
The simplest and most common device works on the principle of a well gate. Its element is a base on which a horizontal metal axis is mounted, located on two uprights. It is passed through the holes in both racks, on the one hand, bending in the form of a handle (Fig. 1).
To avoid movements of the axis in the horizontal direction, two small tubes are put on it. Near one of the tubes will be placed a wooden block, fixed with a metal pin, and a wedge that allows you to securely fix the device on the axis.
A device made from a hand drill works on the same principle. The only difference is that the tool must be securely fixed in order to avoid unnecessary movements that can lead to a violation of the interval between coils of wire. A steel rod is inserted into the drill, on which the body of the future transformer is put on. Perfect option- the use of a metal stud is not large diameter. Due to the presence of a thread on its surface, the transformer housing can be completely immobilized with stoppers from 2 nuts (Fig. 2).
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Winding of a toroidal transformer
Figure 3. Ring machines are used for winding transformers on an industrial scale.
Some types of appliances - audio systems, low-voltage lighting devices - use special toroidal-type transformers. The need to wind such a device often leads people who are faced with this situation to a standstill. Industrial winding toroidal transformers carried out using special ring machines (Fig. 3), but in the home workshop you will have to do with improvised means. There are 3 ways to wind devices of this type:
- Manually. The disadvantages are as follows: long, difficult, the turns are not very even. But sometimes this is the only available method.
- With the help of "shuttle". The shuttle is hand device working on the principle of a sewing needle mechanism.
- Usage homemade device.
If everything is clear with the first two methods, then the third requires a detailed explanation. To create a home-made device, you will need a rim from a bicycle wheel, movably fixed to the wall with a pin, and a rubber ring for fixing the wire (Fig. 4).
Figure 4. Winding with a rim.
The bike rim will need to be cut and fitted with a metal plate on two small bolts to further connect the cut. After the transformer coil is prepared for winding, it is put on the rim through the slot, the circle is closed and the required amount of wire is wound on it. The loose spool will rotate freely along the rim at this time. The next step is to connect the coil to the wire. After that, it is simply led along the rim, and the wire itself will be laid in even turns. You only need to monitor the stretch and density of the turns.
The method described above is well suited for transformers. large sizes. For small devices used in household appliances and radio engineering, the method can be modified and not a bicycle rim can be used, but any suitable ring with flat surface the right sizes.
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Wire unwind
If you plan to use an old transformer as a source of winding wire, then you can make the work easier and faster with a small unwinder. Its use allows you to evenly remove the wire, avoiding jerks and damage to the insulation. The principle of operation and the structure of the device resemble a winding machine, but the movements of the coil occur in the opposite direction.
Quite simple to manufacture and use, the device looks almost the same as manual machine. The difference lies in the absence of a handle and the presence of a device for fixing the hollow body of the transformer on a metal axis. Secure the case with a piece of cardboard, paper or any other rolled up into a multilayer tube. suitable material. So, it will be possible to ensure smooth unwinding, the absence of jumps and shocks of the coil on the axis.
Figure 5. Machine with studs.
By slightly complicating the design and adding clamps made of wooden, metal or textolite plates to it, you can make the device much more convenient to use. Instead of a metal axis, in this case, a threaded stud with a diameter of 6 mm is used. It will not only rotate freely in the racks, but will be fixed by a system of wing nuts (Fig. 5).
When unwinding powerful transformers between the primary and secondary windings, one can detect insulating material. It should not be thrown away, as it has increased reliability and will be useful in the design of your device. In addition, when disassembling an old transformer, you will encounter such a problem as separate layers of wire coated with transparent material- special varnish. No attempt should be made to remove or scrape it off, as the process can easily damage the thin outer wrapping of the wire. It is best to unwind such a transformer on the machine, making smooth and slow movements, while the wire itself will normally move away.
Very often, when repairing this or that equipment, especially if the assembly has a very rare transformer, there are problems with the availability of this element. Of course, you can order a transformer from the manufacturer itself.
But it is unlikely that the plant will serve a one-time client, and even with one more order. And in order to avoid such problems, a machine was created by him. N. Filenko. The device is quite simple and quite functional. Agree, any master, and even a novice radio amateur, would not refuse to have a machine in his collection of tools that skillfully winds coils for a transformer.
Peculiarities.
The machine allows you to wind wires on frames with an inner diameter of 10 mm, and even on square and rectangular frames with dimensions from 10 x 10 mm.
Max. winding length is 180-200mm.
Max. the diameter (i.e. the diagonal of the square frame) is 190-200mm.
Winding can be carried out in manual mode using wire up to 3.2 mm, in the "semi-automatic" mode using wire from 0.3 to 2.00 mm.
The semi-automatic winding mode provides for the laying and winding of a wire layer synchronously, followed by manual laying of insulation layers and changing the directions of laying wires.
In the machine, for laying wires of different diameters, there is a set of pulleys that are easy to change, and which allow you to choose about 27 different winding pitches with a range of 0.31 to 1.0 mm, or 57 steps with a range of 0.31 to 3.2 mm.
The device, due to its large mass, does not need to be fixed to the base.
The principle of operation of the machine is quite simple: the shaft on which the transformer frame is installed is connected to the shaft, along which the wire stacker itself moves synchronously. The inside of the wire handler bushing is threaded. As this shaft rotates, the sleeve moves and pulls the wire guide.
The speed of rotation of the shaft depends on the size of the pulleys, that is, on their diameters, which are installed on the lower and upper shafts, and the speed of movement of the sleeve itself, plus everything, on the thread pitch of the stacker. The rotation of the shaft with the frame itself can be done manually, you can also attach an electric drill as a drive.
Details and elements.
bed
The bed of the equipment is made of a pair of steel sheets. The base of the bed is made of steel with a thickness of 15 mm, sidewalls - 6 mm. This design was taken specifically from the consideration of the surface stability of the equipment.
Before fixing the sidewall, the beds are stacked together and holes are drilled simultaneously on both sidewalls. Further, after this, the beds are installed on the base itself and welded to it by welding.
IN drilled holes(except for the lower) sidewalls, bushings are inserted, and bearings are inserted into the remaining holes. These elements were taken from a 5-inch conventional drive. To prevent the bearings and bushings from moving, they must be fixed with covers.
Shafts.
Upper shaft designed for attaching the coil frame. Made from 12mm rod. (In the machine, absolutely all the shafts match each other in terms of their dimensions, and they are taken from old dot matrix printers, since they are made from hardened steel, they are chrome-plated and ground).
middle shaft. The wire feeder rests on this shaft. The middle shaft is also made of a shaft with a diameter of 12 mm. Here this rod is recommended to be polished.
Stacker bushings.
Sleeve length and length 20 mm; the internal thread must be the same as on the lower shaft, that is, M12x1.0 mm (and in the original it is M10x1.0 mm)
Pulleys
The pulleys of the machine are made with 3 grooves of different diameters in one block. The diameters were chosen in such a way as to most optimally cover the range of wire cross-sections.
The combination of pulleys makes it possible to obtain up to 54 different wire winding pitches. The grooves for the belt, in particular their width, are selected based on the existing belts, in this option- 6 mm. Please note: The total thickness of the pulleys should not exceed 20 mm. If the thickness is greater, then it will be necessary to increase the length of the left shanks of the upper and lower shafts.
Step table.
This table shows: columns - the diameter of the driven pulleys; lines - the diameter of the driving pulleys; cells - winding steps.
note: All parameters given in the table are for informational purposes only, since the data directly depend on the accuracy of the design of the pulleys themselves, the diameters of the belt and the thread pitch on the falling shaft. It is recommended, after the manufacture of the machine, to clarify the indicators by carrying out test windings. Some inaccuracy in the design will not particularly have a big impact on performance, but still, we advise you to bring the matter to mind. If it becomes necessary to wind thinner wires, it will be possible to make a triple pulley with a diameter of 12 / 16 / 20 mm. The additional presence of such pulleys will allow the use of wires with diameters from 0.15 mm.
Wire stacker.
The stacker is made of three plates connected to each other with M4 screws. Hole size 20 mm. Holes in the upper part - 6 mm, made for a screw that regulates the tension of the wire.
The inner plate is made of steel. Weld a steel sleeve 20 mm in size and 20 mm long into the lower hole, and with internal thread in 12x1.0. Insert a fluoroplastic sleeve with a diameter of 20 mm into the upper hole, and int. diameter - 12.5 mm. The size of the sleeve itself should be 20 mm. After all, the plates are fastened together with two screws, but this is not indicated in the figure.
A leather groove is glued between the outer plates, it is needed in order to straighten and stretch the wire. Also, to adjust the tension, a screw is installed in the upper part of the stacker, which tightens the upper parts of the outer plates. A folding bracket is installed on the back of the bed, where the coil with wires is attached.
And finally, the drive itself. Here, an ordinary gear was used as this element, to which a handle is attached. The winding process can also be automated by installing a conventional winding chuck. cordless screwdriver.
If from right to left - "eight"
If winding is performed in semi-automatic mode, then press the “1 + 1” functions on the calculator. This mode will allow you to add one to the above expression with each revolution of the shaft. When unwinding the wires, simply select the expression "1 - 1", here the counter will work in a similar way, but with a deduction.
During operation, carefully monitor the installation. As soon as the wire reaches the opposite cheek of the transformer, press the clamp and quickly change the position of the belt.
Well, that's basically the whole secret.
Scheme of a homemade water leakage sensor
Winding a coil, a transformer, winding threads from a ball, all this can be done without much difficulty if you have home arsenal there is a winding machine.
You can make a winding machine from any improvised means. It is only important to be guided by the most appropriate engineering solutions for your task. First you need to think over the weight and size dimensions, and pick up everything you need.
I would like to draw your attention to a non-tricky design solution that may help you easily, simply and efficiently design and implement a multifunctional winding machine.
You will need: a platform on which the entire structure will be located, an engine that will drive your machine, wheels connected to each other by a rubber belt (Figure No. 1), bearings, axles, fasteners and other material that is provided for by your design.
Figure No. 1 - Wheels connected by a belt You need wheels connected by a groove so that in the event of jamming your machine does not fail or the material you wind is not torn. Also, the belt drive formed by the rubber belt provides you with the proper winding speed, regardless of the speed of your engine. And if you place several pieces of different diameters on the same axis, you can easily adjust the winding speed (Figure No. 2) simply by transferring the belt to another hollow. Although it is more competent to simply regulate the speed of rotation of the engine - but this is not always possible.
Figure No. 2 - Several wheels on the axle to adjust the winding speed Structurally, the wheels can be made, as shown in Figure No. 3, and I also recommend making a non-cunning pyramid-like clamp for the convenience of fixing the coil to the machine.
Figure No. 3 - An example of the design of wheels and clamp After you have made the wheels, you need to fix them as shown in Figure 4.5.
Figure No. 4 - Design example 
Figure No. 5 - Design example In order to fix coils of different diameters in your machine, I recommend that one holder is firmly fixed to the platform and the second one is connected to it with a movable connection (you need to think it over yourself, depending on the intended design) Figure No. 6.
Figure No. 6 - Sketch of the design of the machine in the assembly. I guarantee that such a design solution may not satisfy all your winding needs, but it will simplify the lion's share of this process.
P.S.: I tried to clearly show and describe not tricky tips. I hope that at least something will be useful to you. But this is not all that is possible to invent, so go ahead and study the site
Very often when creating electronic homemade products you have to wind and rewind various transformers and coils. A good assistant in this difficult and painstaking task can be an easy-to-make and reliable home-made winding machine for pulse transformers from computer power supplies and conventional transformers with a “W” shaped magnetic circuit.
The design of the winding machine is very simple to manufacture, even a novice turner can do it. The machine consists of a shaft fixed on a rotation support. On the right side there is a handle for rotating the shaft. On the shaft from left to right there is a clamping device, left and right cones for reliable fastening of transformers.
This picture shows a drawing for making a do-it-yourself winding machine. The machine is designed for winding pulse transformers from computer power supplies and "W" shaped transformers. If you are going to wind something very small or too large then you need to scale the drawing to fit your needs. Well, if you are satisfied with the size of the machine, feel free to take the drawing and go to a familiar turner. - A good turner will make a winding machine in three hours ... - Let him do it. Oh, and don't forget to take some lathe currency with you. All work must be paid.
The machine is equipped with an electronic revolution counter. Which I purchased from a very famous Chinese online store for only $7.5. Perhaps this is not expensive ... For this money, the meter is equipped with a reed sensor, a mounting plate for the reed sensor and a small neodymium magnet! There are two oval buttons on the front panel of the counter. The left button "Pause" turns on the device and saves the counter readings, the "Reset" button resets the readings of the device. The device is powered by just one AA 1.5V AA battery, located on the rear panel of the rev counter under plastic lid. There are also connectors for connecting a reed sensor and an additional "Reset" button.
I screwed the reed sensor to the aluminum post using a mounting plate. Neodymium magnet attached to the handle. For correct operation device, it is necessary to set the gap between the reed sensor and the neodymium magnet no more than five millimeters. Each passage of the neodymium magnet over the reed sensor is counted by the revolution counter as one turn.
How to use a transformer winding machine?
And so, a familiar turner made all the details of the machine in three hours. You assembled the winding machine with your own hands and carefully lubricated all rotating parts, installed a coil counter. Now you can start winding the transformers. We unscrew the M5 screw on the clamping device, remove it and the left clamping cone. We put the transformer frame on the shaft and put on the left cone with a clamping device. With a flat screwdriver, we fix the M5 screw on the clamping device, then we press the frame with two nuts. In this case, the main thing is not to overtighten, otherwise you will split the frame. We turn on the counter of turns and, if necessary, reset the instrument readings to zero.
We clean the end of the wire from the varnish with a knife and fasten it to the stamp of the frame from the transformer. With the left hand we direct the wire, and with the right we turn the handle. After a few minutes of training, the wire will lay down in even layers. In order to avoid breakdown, we isolate each layer of wire with several layers of ordinary adhesive tape. Don't forget to keep an eye on the counter.
Friends, I wish you good luck and good mood! See you in new articles!
The machine turned out to be simple and at the same time functional. Front and top view.
It allows you to wind windings on round hollow frames with an internal diameter of 10 mm or more, as well as on square or rectangular frames. internal dimension from 10x10 mm.
The maximum winding length is 180-200 mm. The maximum diameter (diagonal of the rectangular frame) is 200 mm. Winding can be carried out manually with a wire with a diameter of up to 3.2 mm, in the "semi-automatic" winding mode with a wire from 0.31 to 2.0 mm. “Semi-automatic” winding involves winding and laying the wire layer synchronously with winding, followed by manual laying of the insulation layer and changing the direction of laying the wire. On hand-laid round mandrels, even a tube with a diameter of up to 6 mm can be wound. For laying wires of different diameters, a set of interchangeable pulleys is provided, allowing you to select 27 different winding pitches in the range of 0.31 - 1.0 mm or 54 winding pitches in the range of 0.31 - 3.2 mm. The machine itself easily fits on an ordinary kitchen stool, due to its large weight it does not require additional fastening.
Principle of operation
Simple to ugliness. The shaft on which the transformer frame is mounted is kinematically connected to the shaft along which the wire stacker moves. The wire handler has a bushing, inside of which a thread is cut. When the shaft rotates, the sleeve moves and moves the wire guide behind it. The speed of rotation of the shaft is determined by the diameters of the pulleys installed on the upper and lower shafts, and the speed of the sleeve is also determined by the thread pitch of the stacker shaft. A set of 3 triple sheaves allows for up to 54 wire pitch combinations. The laying direction is changed by rearranging the belt connecting the pulleys. The rotation of the shaft with the frame can be done manually, or you can adapt an electric drill as a drive.
DETAILS
All dimensions are indicated as in the original.
bed
The machine bed is welded from steel sheets. The base of the frame is selected with a thickness of 15 mm, the sidewalls - with a thickness of 6 mm. The choice is primarily due to the stability of the machine (the heavier, the better)
Before welding, the sides of the bed are folded together and holes are drilled simultaneously in both sides. After that, the beds are installed on the base and welded to it. Bronze bushings are inserted into the upper and middle holes of the sidewalls, and bearings into the lower ones.
Bearings taken from an old 5 inch drive. From movement, bearings and bushings on the outer side of the sidewalls are fixed with covers.
Shafts
The upper shaft, on which the coil frame is mounted, is made of a rod with a diameter of 12 mm. In this design, all shafts are made from suitable diameter shafts from end-of-life dot matrix printers, they are made of good steel, hardened, chrome-plated or ground.
The middle shaft, on which the wire feeder rests, is also made of 12 mm diameter bar. The shaft should be polished.
The choice of the diameter of the lower shaft - the feed one, is due to the need to have a thread pitch of 1 mm, and there was only one suitable lerk 10x1.0. It is desirable (for greater reliability) to make this shaft also with a diameter of 12 mm.
Stacker bushing
Diameter 20 mm, length 20 mm, internal thread is the same as on the lower shaft M12x1.0 (in the original - M10x1.0)
Pulleys
The pulleys are made triple, i.e. 3 grooves of different diameters in one block. The diameters are chosen so as to most optimally cover the required range of wire cross-sections.
Machined from steel, the combination of pulleys allows for 54 different winding pitches. The width of the groove for the belt is selected based on the available belts, in a particular case 6 mm. Please note: the total thickness of the pulleys must be no more than 20 mm. If the thickness of the pulleys is greater, it is necessary to increase the length of the left shanks of the lower and upper shaft (the diameter of which is 8 mm, the length is 50 mm).
If necessary, single pulleys of appropriate diameters can be made. Selected pulley diameters provide wire winding with 54 different pitches.
Step table
The rows indicate the diameters of the driving pulleys, the columns - the diameters of the driven pulleys. In the cells of the table - a sword winding wire.
This table is only indicative, since it depends on the accuracy of the manufacture of pulleys, the diameter of the belt and the thread pitch on the lower (feeding shaft). After the manufacture of the entire machine, it is necessary to clarify the resulting ratios by the test winding method and compile a similar table. Inaccuracy in manufacturing will not affect performance, other diameter ratios will lead to different winding steps. But a large number of combinations will allow you to choose the right step in any case. If it is necessary to wind with a thinner wire, another triple pulley can be made with diameters for example 12, 16 and 20 mm. The presence of such a pulley will further expand the range of wire used (starting with a diameter of 0.15 mm).
Wire stacker.
Stacker plate drawing
It is made of 3 plates interconnected with M4 screws. Hole diameter 20 mm. Hole in the upper part with a diameter of 6 mm for the tension adjustment screw.
The inner plate is made of steel, a steel bushing with a diameter of 20 mm, a length of 20 mm and an internal thread 12x1.0 is welded into the lower hole. A PTFE bushing with an outer diameter of 20 mm and an inner diameter of 12.5 mm is inserted into the upper hole, the length of the bushing is 20 mm. The plates are pulled together with 2 M4 screws, the holes for them are not shown in the figure.
A groove made of leather 1.8-2 mm thick is glued into the groove between the outer plates, it helps to straighten and tension the wire. To adjust the tension, a screw or a mini clamp is installed in the upper part of the stacker, which tightens the upper part of the outer plates, depending on the diameter of the wire and the required tension.
At the back of the bed, a folding bracket for a coil of wire is installed, an optional but convenient thing.
Drive unit
A large-diameter gear is used as a drive, to which a handle is riveted. On the right side of the bed (in place) there is a fixation unit and an auxiliary drive, representing a shaft with a gear, mounted on a separate bracket with a collet clamp and a protruding axle. The axis can be fixed in the chuck of a cordless screwdriver or an electric drill and thus make an electric drive. When winding a thick wire, you can fix the handle on the axis, then it will be easier to wind even a thick tube. The collet clamp allows you to securely fix the shaft with the coil being wound, if for some reason you have to interrupt the winding for a long time.
Turn counter.
A magnet is fixed on the gear of the upper shaft, and on the right sidewall there is a reed switch, the conclusions of which are connected to the contacts of the “=” button of the calculator.
Other small parts and the parts are installed in place and made from what God will send.
The last photo shows that the coil with wire is placed on a separate shaft. The shaft is mounted on 2 levers that can be lifted up, then they will fold into the machine. This is done so that the machine does not take up much space during its inactivity.
Work on the machine.
Although it is already clear what is being done and how, I will describe the order of work. The slight complexity of installing frames and the apparent difficulty of changing the laying direction are compensated by the simplicity of the machine.
Remove the upper pulley, extend the upper shaft to the right to the length required to install the frame. Install the right disk on the shaft, then the coil mandrel and put the coil or transformer frame on the mandrel. Install the left disk, screw on the nut and insert the shaft into the left sleeve. Replace and secure the upper pulley (corresponding to the table for winding the primary winding).
Insert a cotter pin or stud into the hole on the upper shaft, center the frame on the mandrel and clamp the frame with the mandrel with a nut.
Install the required pulley (for winding the primary winding) on the supply shaft.
Rotate the feed roller pulley to set the stacker against the right or left cheek of the coil frame. Put a belt on the pulleys. If the wire is laid from left to right, the belt is put on in a “ring”, if the wire is to be laid from right to left, the belt is put on in a “figure of eight”.
The wire is threaded under the additional shaft, then placed from the bottom up into the leather groove of the stacker and fixed to the frame. The clamps at the top of the stacker adjust the tension of the wire so that it wraps tightly around the frame.
On the calculator, press 1 + 1. Now, with each revolution of the shaft with the frame, the calculator will add 1, that is, it will count the turns of the wire. If you need to rewind several turns, press - 1 and with each turn of the shaft, the calculator readings will decrease by 1.
During the winding of the wire, follow the laying of the turns, if necessary, correcting the turns on the frame. When the wire reaches the opposite cheek of the frame, clamp Collet clamp and change the position of the belt from the "ring" to the "eight" or vice versa. After releasing the collet, place release paper under the wire and continue winding.
If it is necessary to change the thickness of the wire, select the ratio of the pulleys for the required winding pitch.
OK it's all over Now. I apologize for the low quality of the photos, but I hope that everything will become clear to you from the photos and drawings given.
