Everyone who grows seedlings knows firsthand how difficult it becomes to water seedlings when they grow up. In order to somehow facilitate their work, summer residents invent various watering cans. We invite you to familiarize yourself with some of them.
1. Insert a slightly curved tube into a clean plastic bottle (1.5-2 L). It should be longer than the height of the bottle so that you can easily water the seedlings even in the most inconvenient place.
So that when the tube is bent, it does not decrease in diameter (flattened), close one edge of the tube with plasticine or clay, pour water and put it in the cold (you can freezer), so that water does not spill out of it. When the water turns to ice, bend the tube. In this case, the tube itself will take desired shape, and the ice will not allow the walls of the tube to shrink.
Many gardeners grow seedlings in foil containers, and a watering can made in this way will be a great help in caring for seedlings.
2. Sometimes seedlings do not require root watering, but with the capture of leaves. In order not to accidentally douse the seedlings with water, make a do-it-yourself watering can.
Wash a half-liter plastic bottle thoroughly, remove the stickers from the outside and make dots with a marker, instead of which you will then make holes. Place the dots in a 5x5 square.
Clamp the nail head in pliers and burn the end of the nail on fire (candle) for 20-30 seconds. Now pierce the drawn points with a heated nail. When the nail cools down, heat it up again. On reverse side Use a knife to cut out a hole for filling the water bottle so that it is 2-4 cm higher than the watering holes. Fill the bottle with water and carefully place it horizontally above the plants.
For convenience, you can build a handle on a bottle-watering can from adhesive tape.
3. There are not many watering cans either in the country or at home for seedlings and plants. Many plants cannot be watered with a hose, especially in greenhouse gardening, so it's best and easiest to have a watering can at every turn. In order not to spend money on the purchase, we suggest doing it yourself. To do this, take any plastic canister (from water, car oil), polypropylene pipe 50 cm long and rotated 60°.
Near the bottom on a flat place, attach a “turn” and mark the diameter of the future hole with a marker. Cut and try on how easily the pipe enters the canister (there should not be a large gap). Lubricate the connection well with hot glue, insert the pipe and leave to dry. Then you just have to put a piece of pipe on the pipe and, if necessary, shorten it by cutting off the excess. The optimal length of the "spout" is considered to be the height that does not exceed the canister lid.
Tie the tube (spout) to the handle of the canister so that it does not break under water pressure. A cut plug can be inserted into the spout so that water flows in a fan in a limited stream. If the watering can has to scoop up water in the well, then for the convenience of filling with water, make a hole on the opposite side of the spout so that the air can quickly escape.
4. From a small plastic container (shampoo bottle) you can also make an excellent watering can. To do this, it is enough to make holes at the bottom with an awl or nail. Pour water into a container, close the neck, turn upside down and water.
5. You can make the most primitive watering can. Punch holes in the lid plastic canister and on the opposite side for air outlet.
6. If it is not possible to regularly water seedlings or seedlings, then it makes sense to do automatic watering. For this at the bottom plastic bottle make holes with a hot nail, fill the container with water and close the lid. Dig a bottle into the ground next to each plant in the garden, or one for several seedlings.
As you can see, there are many options to make a watering can with your own hands, choose your own, make and share your suggestions.
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earth drill
Such a technical device makes it easy to extract powerful roots of various weeds deeply seated in the soil from the soil.
hydrodrillThe device is designed to apply fertilizer directly to the root zone, significantly reduce moisture loss through evaporation, reduce the degree of injury to plant roots, and wash pests off trunks and branches.
Hydrodrill. 1 - tube, 2 - tip, 3 - hose, 4 - tee, 5 - handle, 6 - tap, 7 - dispenser tank, 8 - flexible partition, 9 - hose, 10 - valve, 11 - hose.
A conical tip is put on a durable rubber hose. The diameter of its outlet should be 6 - 8 mm. With a pressure in the water supply system of 1 atm, the water flowing out of the hydraulic drill washes out a hole in the soil up to 70 cm deep (up to 6 cm in diameter) in a matter of seconds.
In order to apply top dressing with the help of a hydraulic drill, a hydraulic compressor with a flexible partition is connected to it. After connecting it, the supply of the nutrient solution is regulated using a special valve.
Drill from an old potA drill made from an old pan is fixed on a riser, having previously installed a drill bit (25 mm in diameter) from below. (Instead, a strip of steel twisted in a spiral can be used.) A knife is attached to the body from 2 sides. Before each of them, small slots were made (30 - 40 mm wide). When the drill is deepened through these same slots, the soil is fed into the pan. Then it is removed.
Drill from an old pan. 1 - tip, 2 - slot, 3 - knife, 4 - knife mount, 5 - body, 6 - riser.
Markers and planters
On suburban area wherever you turn, it is required manual labor. Even primitive mechanization of work will greatly facilitate the work and increase labor productivity. A marker is a device that allows one movement to make not one, but several grooves (or nests) for seeds at once.
Cross marker
cross marker. 1 - base, 2 - rail, 3 - handle, 4 - stand-support, 5 - tap.
If it is planned that the crops on the bed will be located across, the grooves are made using a transverse marker that captures the entire width of the ridge.
The base of the marker is the board. From below, slats are nailed to it, but not flat, but having a triangular section. A handle with a stand-support and a tap is attached from above. The marker is placed across the ridge and rested with the foot on the board. In this case, one of the edges of the rail is pressed into the soil and leaves even grooves. The thorn of the tap is a kind of border for the next installation of the marker. Row by row, setting a marker, mark the entire garden.
Longitudinal markerWhen the plants are placed along the ridge, a longitudinal marker is used, shaped like a rake. But this is only in form: instead of teeth, 3-sided parallel wooden blocks are attached to the base.
The device makes it possible to make 12 furrows at once in one pass.
simple markerMake landings vegetable crops a simpler marker will help to be more accurate.
Its design and dimensions are shown in the figure (1 - for radish seeds, 2 - for pea seeds).
Rake markerYou can also adapt an ordinary rake for a marker. But this is not without improvement.
2 metal points are attached to the rake with bolts, the length of which exceeds their teeth. Having drilled several holes in the rake bar, rearranging the points, you can change the distance between them, and therefore the interval between the grooves.
Simplified MarkerIt will help out when you need to make many holes for seeds. Looks like a tool used by plasterers. Made from a board or a piece of chipboard. On working surface the marker is fixed with wooden spikes, and a handle is attached on top.
Easy markerThey are made from old ("toothless") rakes. To the base, on the opposite side, "antennae" of 3 thin metal plates are riveted.
A triangular recess is provided in the middle of the base. Thanks to it, the marker can be moved along a stretched cord, which guarantees accurate marking.
Marker (I. Mikhailov)It is intended both for sowing radishes and carrots, and for marking the area for tomatoes and cucumbers. The craftsman based the invention on wooden slats 50 - 60 mm wide (15 - 30 mm thick and 130 and 200 cm long). He planed them with a planer, shaping them into a wedge, and then connected them with 2 short (proportional to the spacing) transverse bars. Before starting agricultural work, the gardener puts the structure on the bed, lightly presses on it with his foot - and furrows 20-30 mm deep appear in the soil. The innovator determines the location of the future plant as follows: he lays a pre-marked pipe with a diameter of 76.2 mm on the site. Its length corresponds to the size of the site.
Marker (N. Semenov)The inventor passed a steel bar (diameter 12 mm) through metal pipe(length 30 and outer diameter 6 cm). At the ends of the homegrown axle, he planted a bearing.
To the same axis, the gardener attached 2 curved plates forming "horns". A second pipe is inserted between their ends, but already 120 cm long (through the ears of the plates and the lower end of the second pipe, for greater strength of the connection, 2 rows of holes with a diameter of 8 mm were drilled. Mounting bolts M8 were inserted into them). Depending on the desired row spacing, from 3 to 7 disks (outer diameter 100 and inner diameter 60 mm) are put on a shaft rotating in a horizontal plane. The thickness of the disks is 10 mm, their outer edge is sharpened into a cone). In order to facilitate the movement of the marker from above, a handlebar from a children's bicycle is inserted into the vertical pipe.
Multi-row markerMade from a piece of thick plywood (or chipboard). At the base of the fixture, holes are drilled at the required intervals (in several rows). Wooden round pegs are driven into them, protruding from one side of the base by the required amount. The lower end of the pegs is sharpened. Handles are attached to 2 sides of the base.
Seeder-shoeThey use such an original device for sowing seeds of fairly large garden crops, placed in a row at a step distance (or a multiple of a step). With it, you can even sow the seeds of some trees (for example, spruces), as well as corn and melons.
The device, shaped like a bird's beak, is attached to the heel of the boot with straps. Having taken a step, the gardener presses the "beak" of the seeder into the ground. It forms a hole. In this case, the lever touches the spring plate and turns. The "beak" opens - and the seeds fall into the ground.
A container with seeds is attached to the belt. It is connected to the "beak" with a flexible tube. But just throwing a seed into the ground is not enough: it needs to be watered and fed. For this purpose, another tube is brought to the “beak”, through which water or liquid fertilizer enters the hole.
cane seederEliminates constant tilting during sowing. For manufacturing, an old bicycle is suitable. A movable seed container is inserted into the vertical part of the handle. In the lower part of the device, a trapezoidal strap with a seed placement depth regulator and a soil compactor are riveted. Before work, seeds are poured into the container and deepened into the sling to the required depth (after setting the limiter). Then the "cane" is turned around its axis by 90 - 130 °, as a result of which a funnel-shaped nest is obtained. After that, the container is lifted, and the seeds rush into the chamber. Pushed through the slit with a finger required amount seeds in a tube.
Cane seeder. 1 - container for seeds, 2 - container fasteners, 3 - slot, 4 - chamber, 5 - container, 6 - tube, 7 - strap, 8 - soil compactor, 9 - depth regulator.
Three-wheeled seeder (M. Krasilnikov)
The craftsman fitted 3 wheels to the seeder: the rear one was from a children's bicycle (300 mm in diameter), the front wheels (on the same axle) were from a baby stroller. On a frame bent in the form of the letter “P” made of strip iron (40 × 350 mm in size) (525 mm long and 115 mm wide), a box of plywood with a plexiglass cover is placed and pulled with 2 bolts. This is a seed bin. Inside the box on 2 plain bearings, in a horizontal plane, the main part of the apparatus is mounted - a shaft carved from birch and varnished, shaped like a spool for threads. One of 3 replaceable tapes made of a leather belt is inserted into its cavity, in which hemispherical depressions are burned out (their number depends on the area of crops, and the diameter is 10 - 8 mm). When the seeder moves along the plowed area, the bicycle chain stretched between the rear wheel sprocket to the seeding coil rotates the latter. The cells of the tape in the hopper capture the seeds and send them to the funnel (the diameter of the funnel itself is 56 mm, the outlet tube is 28 mm).
The seeder is three-wheeled. a - seeder diagram (side and top view), b - seeding coil diagram (top and side view); 1 - driving wheel, 2 - seeding unit, 3 - frame, 4 - marking wheel, 5 - funnel, 6 - coulter, 7 - seed tube, 8 - coil, 9 - handle, 10 - sprocket, 11 - chain.
From there, the seeds fall by gravity first into the coulter, and then into the furrow.
The simplest planterUnder it, you can adapt any (fortunately, they now come in different volumes) pharmacy vial. Seeds are poured into it, the neck is plugged with a cork, into which the hollow thickened end of the goose feather is passed. Before sowing the seeds, the vial is tilted and gently shaken. Seeds lie down in the furrow prepared in advance with an even line.
Simple crutchDesigned for planting potatoes and other crops. It is made from a cutting of arbitrary length. A bar 170 - 180 mm long is nailed across the handle, at a distance of 250 mm from the sharpened end.
One person makes holes in certain places, and the other lowers nodules into them.
The crossbar on the handle prevents the spike from going deeper into the soil than required, which ensures the same depth of the planting holes.
The transverse part of it has a length of 130 - 200 mm and a width of about 100 mm, is made in the form of a shuttle and is mounted on the handle. The device is convenient to make grooves for sowing seeds.
Cabbage crutchUse when planting cabbage seedlings and other vegetable crops. The crutch consists of a handle 1.25 m long, pointed on one side, and a handle, which is also made of wood. The landing process, like using a simple crutch, requires a partner. The first, walking along the ridge, makes holes in the soil, and the second plants seedlings in them.
Irrigation tools and devices
If watering the ridges can be handled either with a conventional watering can or an improved one, then in the garden this operation turns out to be quite laborious. And there is no escape: trees and shrubs also want to "drink". So let's talk about sprinklers. All makeshift installations for irrigation have a significant drawback: too much water consumption. In light of this, gardeners are interested drip irrigation. Such a device is more often used when there are few fruit trees on the site.
watering cans
For decades, the design of a fairly simple representative gardening equipment remains virtually unchanged. Nevertheless, skilled gardeners are constantly modernizing what, it would seem, cannot be modernized.
Watering can-telescopeIn a garden watering can, the watering net nozzle is usually located just above the handle. A piece of metal (or rubber) pipe lengthens the standard "nose". It is much more convenient to work with an improved watering can: the “telescope” delivers life-giving moisture to the edge of even the widest beds.
Usually, during storage and transportation, the spout of the watering can requires extra bed. Yes, and it interferes with scooping up water from the barrel. The watering can will become more convenient during operation and storage, when the spout and body are connected with a corrugated rubber tube. A cable is tied to the mesh nozzle and secured to the latch. So that the watering can does not rust from the remaining moisture, a hole is made in its body (closer to top cover). It is better to store an improved watering can upside down.
A handle is soldered to the watering can in the form of an arc. The quality of watering will be significantly improved by a transverse tubular nozzle.
It replaces the standard grid. It is much more convenient to work with such a watering can, and besides, after modernization, its working grip will increase.
Watering can with dividerThe water divider, as a rule, is put on the nozzle of the watering can. In this case, the fit of the branch pipe and the divider in relation to the branch pipe of the watering can is made internal.
Watering can with divider. 1 - body of the watering can, 2 - branch pipe with a baffle collar, 3 - divider.
The seating surface of the branch pipe divider can be both conical and cylindrical. The divider is inserted into the pipe until it stops. Thanks to this improvement, the water seeping into the gap between the nozzle and the divider is directed along the water stopper into the irrigation zone. The watering device reduces water consumption and increases the convenience of using the watering can. When applying liquid fertilizer, the divider is removed, while the solution flows through the nozzle. The shoulder prevents the fertilizer from flowing out of the fertilizing area through the nozzle and watering can.
Rational watering canStandard garden watering can, with 2 handles (top and back) on a cylindrical body, is extremely inconvenient. Firstly, you have to carry a full watering can, holding your hand out, which is quite tiring. Secondly, watering with such a watering can is also inconvenient: the center of gravity shifts as it decreases, and it is impossible to intercept hands, since their position is fixed.
A watering can with an oval body and a curved handle is much more rational. The design will allow you to occupy only one hand, and as the center of gravity changes, it can be intercepted. Such a watering can is more convenient to wear than a cylindrical one, and the arc-shaped handle runs along the body.
The most important advantage of this design is the following: the gardener can water the ridges with 2 watering cans at once, which significantly reduces the time for plant care. The capacity of the oval watering can is different. Make a watering can from galvanized sheet iron. A hoop is attached to the oval body for strength. Its edge should be slightly below the bottom of the watering can. Well, if the spout is 1.5 times higher than the body. This will make it possible to water plantings located at a great distance.
Original nozzle for the watering canAnd you can make an original nozzle for the watering can. To do this, a piece of steel or roofing sheet is cut and bent. With its help of such a nozzle it is convenient to water the ridges liquid fertilizer. At the same time, the mesh of the watering can does not become clogged, and the jet from the nozzle turns out to be fan-shaped.
As a rule, gardeners are not satisfied with 1 - 2 types of crops grown on the site. And different plants require different care. The same applies to such a seemingly simple operation as watering. There may be only one watering can on the farm, but in order to increase its versatility, you must at least have a similar set of nozzles.
A set of accessories for a watering can. 1 – general form, 2 - nozzle with a strainer facing upwards, for watering tall plants, 3 - nozzle with a strainer facing forward, for watering plants of medium height, 4 - nozzle for watering with a fertilizer solution, 5 - nozzle for watering into holes, 6 - adaptation to watering can for small-drop watering.
homemade sprayer
Simple and reliable fixture. Air is supplied to it with hand pump. The device is mounted at the end of a pole 1.5 - 2 m long and is used to process the crowns of fruit trees.
They take the most ordinary canister (with a capacity of 10 - 12 liters). A fitting from a bicycle chamber is pressed into the handle, to which a hose 1.5 m long is connected. A hose with a spray is brought to the bottom of the container. Its end is attached to a pole. When using such a device, safety precautions must be strictly observed. It is strictly forbidden to spray trees with pesticides without using personal protective equipment.
Homemade sprayer. 1 - rail-holder, 2 - tap, 3 - canister, 4 - pump.
Universal sprayer
Water in the garden for spraying plants is taken from the main. For this, from her garden plot make a tap and put a stopcock on it and check valve. From pipes with a diameter of 15 - 20 mm, several taps are cut in to parse water and connect hoses with a sawing tip. The higher the water pressure in the network, the easier the work of the gardener.
Spraying scheme (a) and plant nutrition device (b). 1 – main water supply, 2 - outlet, 3 - stopcock, 4 - tap for water analysis, 5 - pipeline, 6 - hose, 7 - tip, 8 - check valve.
For spraying use a proportional dispenser. Its principle of operation is quite simple. Reducing the diameter of a pipe (for example, at a faucet) causes a drop in water pressure. By inserting a container with chemicals into this place, by turning the tap valve, the concentration of the solution used for spraying is changed.
Plants in the area are sprayed clean water by connecting the hose to the nearest faucet. Various dispensers are used to feed plantings or protect them from pests. They are installed either on the pipeline or next to the tip.
A tank with a solution is also attached directly near the tip (Fig. b). As a rule, all devices are made from improvised materials. In this case, the dispenser is old barrel And plastic bag, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the barrel. Scheme of work: the barrel is disconnected from the water supply using a 3-way tap. Pour the solution into the bag through the funnel. He, through drain tap, displaces water from the barrel.
Upon filling the bag, the tap is opened, and now the water displaces the solution.
Poil RingCraft similar device is not difficult: it is enough to have a rubber hose (about 10 m long) and a tee. Small holes are made in the hose at an equal distance from each other. After that, the hose is rolled into a ring (1 m in diameter) around the trunk fruit tree, and the ends are put on a tee connected through a tap to the water supply. The pressure is given such that trickles of water are immediately absorbed into the ground without forming puddles.
An almost ideal way of watering: using it, you do not need to dig an irrigation groove, which can harm the roots, or loosen the ground: a crust does not form on it during ring irrigation.
And most importantly, the water is evenly distributed under the crown, while not flooding the neck of the tree.
Mechanized water intake from the sourceAll “landowners” know that mechanized water intake for irrigation is associated with high energy costs, and therefore financial ones. Therefore, the ability to reduce energy costs naturally attracts many gardeners.
It is not at all difficult to make a wind-powered water intake installation. To use wind energy, a wooden riser is placed right above the well. From above, a rod with an impeller is attached to it. It turns out the drive shaft. In the well itself, below the water level, a driven shaft is installed. The drive is carried out using a porous rubber belt.
The impeller, under the influence of the wind, rotates and sets the belt in motion. He draws water from the well. Water is squeezed out of the belt with special device(it looks like spinning the old washing machine) and it enters the water tank. The upper shaft with the impeller is mounted on an annular float so that it can turn in the direction of the wind. The belt is made from almost any material, but it must quickly absorb water.
Water supply with the help of wind. 1 - driven shaft, 2 - foam rubber belt, 3 - water collectors, 4 - annular float, 5 - drive shaft, 6 - shaft, 7 - impeller.
Automatic watering
A platform is built on a free patch and a container is installed on it. Its dimensions depend on the size of the garden (can be from 1 to 10 m 3). At the bottom of the tank there is a valve for water release.
In the neighborhood with a large capacity, they put a smaller one - a kind of water clock. It contains a 40 mm thick foam float (or a rubber ball). Water clocks are equipped with an outlet device into which special gaskets are inserted. Such inserts (up to 10 pieces) are made of aluminum. The holes in the inserts vary in diameter: from 0.1 mm to 1.4 mm. Each hole corresponds to a specific watering interval. If it is permissible to pour any water into a large container, then only clean water into a small one, otherwise the water clock will become clogged. Water from them, through a calibrated hole, seeps out gradually. At the same time as the water level, the float also drops.
Device for automatic watering . 1 - rod, 2 - rack, 3 - microswitch, 4 - switch.
When it reaches a certain position, a simple device (a lever with a weight and a cable) will pull the large capacity valve up. The drain hole will open and water will flow through the pipes to the plants.
They make holes at certain distances. Water seeps through them, moistening the soil.
When the water is poured out, the boom is lowered and the microswitch turns on the electric motor. The tank fills up, the boom rises and closes the switch on the rack.
Attention! This is an introductory section of the book.
If you liked the beginning of the book, then full version can be purchased from our partner - a distributor of legal content LLC "LitRes".
Hello DIYers, as well as summer residents and gardeners! This August has finally taken revenge on the previous two abnormally cold and rainy summer months. He has already spoiled us with real summer warmth and even heat, but at the same time, the situation turned out to be the opposite with rains, since there were practically no rains this August. Therefore, I had to again take on waterings and watering cans and water garden beds. And then, in the midst of watering work, we completely broke down the purchased nozzle-watering can for a plastic watering can. I must say, it was rather flimsy from the very beginning, and even earlier it had to be rewound with electrical tape. But then a whole piece broke off from her, and she became completely unsuitable for irrigation.
We really also have two old metal sprinklers with durable metal nozzles However, they are quite heavy and not very comfortable to use. Moreover, it is especially difficult for women to use them. From this point of view, modern plastic pouring is of course much more convenient and therefore used most often. Therefore, I decided to quickly make homemade nozzle on this watering, literally from what was at hand.
From the materials for this I needed:- Empty plastic shampoo bottle;- A piece of old rubber hose. Of the tools needed:- Cordless drill-driver;
- Drill for metal with a diameter of 2.5 mm;
- Knife;
- Shilo.
Irrigation making
First I cut off a small piece of rubber hose.
This hose is very well suited to the neck of the shampoo bottle, as it is put on it very tightly and firmly, and no additional fastening is required.
However, in order to put the other end of this piece of hose on the sprinkler spout, it is required to remove a certain layer of rubber from the inside with a knife.
And now this piece of hose is already quite easy, but at the same time it is very tightly put on the watering spout.
Now you need to modify the shampoo bottle by drilling holes in it.
To do this, you first need to mark and prick the centers of future holes with an awl.
And then drill them out with a drill.
After that, it remains only to cut off with a knife from the surface of the bottle, the pieces of plastic left after drilling the holes.
Then you need to rinse this bottle from the remnants of plastic chips that got inside, and put on the previously prepared piece of rubber hose. And now our nozzle is ready!
Now you can put it on the spout of the watering.
How to make a watering can from a bottleAgree, a watering can is a necessary thing for a gardener, but it is not always at hand when you grow houseplants. After all, watering simply from a mug under the root is not suitable for every plant and does not always favorably affect them. appearance, as some plants need to be watered from above, capturing leaves and flowers.
Today we will look at an example of how you can do without a purchased watering can at home. And make it from a simple plastic bottle.
1. Take a half-liter or liter plastic bottle and wash it thoroughly, removing all kinds of stickers, as well as removing any soda or juice residue.
2. Use a marker to mark the bottle with dot marks where the holes will be located in the future. The holes on the bottle should not be too close to each other, but also too far apart, since at a close distance, the water will flow in one continuous stream. The optimal number of holes for irrigation is 25 pieces, 5 horizontally and 5 vertically, forming a square on the walls of the bottle.
3. Take pliers and a small nail. Clamp the nail with pliers in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cap, and bring it to an open fire. For an open flame, you can use a paraffin candle. Only the tip of the nail needs to be heated on fire for 20 seconds.
4. Bring the heated nail to the plastic bottle where the markings are, then pierce the wall of the bottle by slightly pressing on the nail. If, when making holes, the nail has cooled down, then heat it again over a candle.
5. On the opposite side of the bottle, using a knife, cut a square hole for pouring water into the bottle. You choose the diameter of the square hole yourself, but it should not be lower than the holes for watering, relative to the bottom of the bottle.
6. For easy watering from a bottle, you can make a handle out of tape.
Uzambara (Uzumbarskaya) violet- a plant of the Gesneriev family, grows in the natural environment of tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, Africa, Eastern Australia, South America and the Indian Ocean islands.
Saintpaulia- a plant named after the father and son of Saint-Paul, who brought a plant unknown to Europeans from the Uzambara district (modern Tanzania) in the 19th century, presented for the first time on international exhibition flowers in Ghent in 1893.
Violet room- one of the most popular plants in indoor floriculture since 1927. By 1949, more than 100 varieties were bred, and today their number exceeds several thousand.
rooting- possibly in water, in the substrate, moss.
Priming- purchased soil or a mixture of leafy, coniferous, soddy and peat soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 2: 1 with the addition of baking powder (perlite, vermiculite, river sand, crushed sphagnum moss.
Lighting- it is best to put flower pots on the western or eastern windows. In order for the plant to be evenly lit from all sides, the pots are periodically rotated. In winter, when daylight hours decrease, you can use artificial lighting - fluorescent lamps.
Care- real art and serious painstaking work at the same time, including watering, fertilizing, creating a favorable humid climate. Water Saintpaulia as the soil dries. The soil must be regularly moistened, but excess moisture should not stagnate in the roots. When watering, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves. Do not water the uzambar violet cold water. Top dressing is carried out with a complex mineral fertilizer once in two weeks. Saintpaulia reacts negatively to a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Optimal Humidity air about 50%, temperature - 20-22 ° C, without sharp fluctuations and drafts. The leaves of the plant must not touch window glass. Removal of faded flowers and damaged leaves is carried out regularly.
reproduction- planting a leaf cutting, part of a leaf, a daughter outlet. The most popular method is rooting a leaf cutting. The formation of roots and the development of children lasts 4-8 weeks.
Pests- this is one of the problems of the grower. There are many various kinds pests, it is very difficult to classify them. Among the pests of saintpaulia, several groups can be distinguished: mites (spider, flat, transparent, etc.), insects (aphids, thrips, springtails, podura, mealybugs, whiteflies, scale insects, etc.), worms (nematode).
Diseases- distinguish between infectious gray rot, powdery mildew) and non-infectious diseases (rotting of the stem and root, wilting of the lower leaves, yellowing, leaf spotting, incomplete opening and premature drying, falling flowers) of plants. The causative agents of infectious diseases are bacteria, fungi, viruses. To prevent infectious disease it is necessary to strictly observe the modes of watering, temperature, humidity, illumination. Non-communicable diseases usually occur due to violations of agricultural practices. They may appear on one instance and not spread to others.
