Over time, during use, the bathtub breaks down. This is especially true for Soviet-made cast iron bathtubs. But what to do? Buy a new one or carry out repairs cast iron bath on one's own? Of course, it’s up to you to decide, but it’s worth noting that buying a new bathtub is quite expensive, so we recommend doing the renovation. But before that, you need to study all its features.
Methods for repairing a cast iron bathtub
When considering options for repairing a bathtub, there are only two:
- Application of enamel. Which in turn can be divided into the installation of enamel and the application of liquid acrylic.
- Acrylic liner device.
Each of these options has features that must be taken into account when carrying out work. Let's look at each repair method in more detail.
Enameling
The first way is . Note that it is available for use only in the case when the bath itself is intact, and you are only confused by it appearance(which has deteriorated considerably over many years of use).
Restoration work of this type is divided into several stages:
- Choice of enamel.
- Preparing the bath surface.
- Coating.
In order to carry out all the work efficiently, it is necessary to study the features of each stage.
Choosing bath enamel
The first, and very important, is the choice of enamel, which will subsequently be applied to the surface. Accordingly, to make a choice you need to know several features:
- The coating can be applied in several ways: using a brush or roller, as well as in the form of an aerosol. Please note that applying an aerosol is not suitable for a complete restoration.
- Also, bath enamel should be supplied complete with all the components necessary for work.
- For two-component compositions, a hardener is required, which is selected in accordance with the shade.
And let's look at the most suitable compositions for similar work:
Any of the presented types, which are the most popular today, is suitable for work.
Now that the material has been selected, you can proceed directly to the work.
Preparing the base
Before you begin directly applying the composition to the surface of the bath, you must carefully prepare it. The preparation itself is carried out as follows:
Once the preparation is complete, you can proceed directly to applying the enamel, and it will differ depending on the choice made. Namely, different ways regular enamel is applied and liquid acrylic. We will look at each of them in more detail.
Applying enamel
Upon completion of preparation, we proceed to repair the bathtub using enameling, which is done as follows:
When finished, allow the bathroom to dry completely. It is recommended to use it no earlier than 2-3 days after applying the composition.
- The process of restoring or repairing a cast iron bathtub using this method lasts about 4 hours. It begins after the enamel is replaced.
- The method involves applying an additional (fourth) layer of enamel to the surface of the bathroom.
- If a new coating has been applied before, it must dry completely, after which an additional layer is applied.
When performing strengthening, it is worth considering some features:
- After applying the last layer, the enamel should dry well.
- The bathtub cannot be used for three days.
- Such repairs of a cast iron bathtub can be carried out independently, taking into account detailed instructions to the jar of enamel.
- You can also use the services of a restoration company. However, there are some nuances here.
- You must take into account that such enamel has a service life of about one and a half years.
- This bath should be used carefully. Since the enamel is scratched, it should only be washed with a soft cloth and gels.
- After a year and a half, new repairs will be required.
But nevertheless, although the method is short-term, it is not expensive. In this way, you can maintain the attractive appearance of the bathroom for many years, and prevent it from rusting and completely deteriorating.
Liquid acrylic
And the second way to restore cast iron plumbing is to apply liquid acrylic. The entire process is carried out in accordance with the technology:
Acrylic liner
Another way to repair a cast iron bathtub is
- When the base of the bathtub is in poor condition, and it is impossible to get by simply replacing the enamel.
- In cases where there is a desire to give the new kind soy old plumbing.
- In addition, it is actively used for “reconstruction” of the bathtub. As you know, metal transfers and absorbs heat very well. And usually in any metal and cast iron products the water cools down very quickly, preventing you from enjoying it. This is when the acrylic liner device comes to the rescue.
In addition, it is worth noting a number of advantages of this solution:
- The liner is wear-resistant.
- Quite durable.
- During use, it does not change color or properties.
- Has sufficient moisture resistance.
- Easy to maintain and use.
- In addition, it has a smooth coating, which repels dirt.
- Insensitive to household dyes and household chemicals.
- It heats up quite quickly and cools down slowly.
But let's look directly at how the repair process itself goes:
Important! When purchasing an acrylic liner, be sure to request a quality certificate for it. In addition, check its integrity at the place of purchase.
Conclusion
As you may have noticed, there are not many ways to restore and repair a cast iron bathtub, and at the same time they are as simple as possible, therefore it is possible independent execution all work (even without anyone's help). We also recommend that you watch several videos that will clearly show all the repair methods, and you will once again see how easy it is to do everything yourself.
What to do if the bathtub is no longer presentable, but there is no opportunity or desire to install a new one ( major renovation almost inevitable when replacing)? There are several technologies that allow you to old bath make a new one - update the coating. Restoring a bathtub is possible with your own hands, you just need to choose which specific method you will use.
Methods for restoring a bathtub, their advantages and disadvantages
Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration can be done in three ways:
- painting with special enamel;
- liquid (self-leveling acrylic);
- insert of an acrylic liner (bathtub in the bathroom).
If speak about independently conducting work, then most often the bathtub coating is restored by painting or poured acrylic. It’s just that the cost of an acrylic liner is about 80% of the total amount that companies charge for this procedure, so rarely does anyone want to understand the intricacies. In addition, when self-installation you lose your warranty. However, using this method you can update the bathtub with your own hands.
Enamel painting
Now about the pros and cons of each method. Painting with enamel is the cheapest option, but also the most short-lived. This coverage lasts for several years - from 3 to 5. The specific figure depends on the care pre-training surface and paint quality.
The painting process is not the easiest - to obtain good result several applications are required (at least three), and each of them has to be “worked on”, removing sagging, drips, and smoothing out unevenness. All this takes time and patience. But how a budget option, the method is not bad. After the paint begins to peel off, it is removed (heated with a hair dryer, removed with a spatula) and, after treating the surface, the bathtub can be painted.
The enamel composition has a very sharp, persistent odor that lasts quite a long time. It is better to work in a respirator, but it is advisable not to open the doors - the paint will dry faster and it will be more difficult to correct.
By brand of paint that is used to paint the bathroom. First of all, this is Tikkurila REAFLEX 50 (Tikkurila Reaflex). Two-component enamel. Not cheap, but high quality. Reviews about its use are positive. In principle, the quality of the coating depends on how accurately the proportions are observed when mixing the components. You can't pour less or more. It will only get worse.
There are other enamels - organosilicon enamels, on which it is written “for baths”. Others cannot be used, as they come into contact with warm water may release harmful substances.
Filling bath
Bathtub restoration using self-leveling acrylic is becoming increasingly popular. This is a two-component composition that is mixed immediately before use. The cost of the set is about $50 (more or less depends on the size of the bowl). As in the previous option, the durability of the coating depends on the quality of surface preparation. And it should not have any contamination, greasy stains, and the surface itself needs to be smooth and rough. The process of applying the composition is simple - it is simply poured in a thin stream from a small container, and it levels itself out. On the walls the layer is thinner, on the bottom it is thicker. An ideal state of affairs for operation. If everything is done correctly, such a coating will last up to 5-7 years, although manufacturers say that the service life is more than 10 years, some even say 15 years.
Filling bathtub - it’s not in vain that they say so. Acrylic is simply poured onto the sides
In addition to durability, this material also pleases with its lack of odor. Or rather, there is a smell, but it is very weak, almost unnoticeable, so it is comfortable to work with.
About materials that can be used to restore a bathtub at home. There are mainly reviews about two brands: Stakril and PlastAll. Both materials have a good reputation (if done correctly). Available on the market a large number of There are cheaper brands of liquid acrylic, but they rarely have hygienic certificates. And without documents it’s better not to take risks.
Bath liner
The advantage of the “bath in a bath” option is the durability of the coating - up to 15 years, but the guarantee is usually given for 2-3 years. However, not everything is so simple with this method. Installing an acrylic liner is both easier and more difficult at the same time. Firstly, there are only so many liners for standard bathrooms, and not everyone has them. Secondly, they cannot be installed on thin-walled metal or “light” cast iron - the metal is thin and moves when loaded, which is why the liner quickly separates from the base and bursts. Since these are the specimens that most often have to be restored, companies simply “forget” about this point.
There are three more negative aspects to using the “bath in a bath” method. They are not necessarily present, but they can be present and lead to damage to the liner, so it is advisable to be aware of them. So, what can negatively affect the service life of the acrylic liner in the bathroom:
- The molded liner has an ideal geometry, but the bathtubs, most often, have deviations. In places of these inconsistencies, cracks usually form.
- Acrylic sits on a special two-component foam. Although it holds the load better than construction material, it can still press down. In these places, voids form, and they lead to the appearance of cracks.
- In the places where the siphon and overflow are installed, two containers are connected. It is very important to carefully seal this joint. Firstly, because water will leak onto the floor, and secondly, it can flow into the voids, bloom there and spread the corresponding “aromas”.
In addition to all the installation nuances, it is important to choose a high-quality liner. And this is very difficult. Plumbing acrylic is expensive. That’s why the liners are sometimes made very thin or from cheap porous and fragile acrylic, sometimes from coated fiberglass.
The essence of the “bath in a bath” method
The thicker the acrylic layer in the liner, the higher the price. In cheap liners the thickness is very small - 0.5-1 mm, in average quality ones it is 2-3 mm, and it is very difficult to find an liner with 4 mm acrylic, but they are the most durable. When calling companies, ask about the thickness of the liner at the bottom. If they say that it is 5-6 mm or even more, they are deceiving you. They just don’t do that and there’s nothing else to talk about. The second thing you need to inquire about is the presence of a hygiene certificate. Sometimes the inserts are molded from counterfeit material, but it is very short-lived - it cracks after a few months. There are no documents for such goods, although the “leftists” can provide them. But, still... The next stage of quality control is visual. When visiting a company where you plan to purchase a plastic liner for your bathroom, inspect several pieces. They should be perfectly even, and the color should be snowy white. Not greyish, greenish or yellowish. Snow white. No shades. In this case, you can hope that the bathroom he restored will serve for a long time.
Preparation
Preparing the bathtub for restoration is important in any case. Even if you are going to install an insert. There, too, good adhesion (adhesion) to the foam is necessary. And in the case of using enamel or acrylic, preparation plays a very important role.
If you look at the description of the work of companies involved in the restoration of bathtubs, they preparatory stage- remove the drain and overflow, go over the entire surface well with sandpaper and abrasive powder, wash and dry. If there are any, repair the chips with automotive putty. Sometimes they add that it is necessary to degrease the surface with a solvent. That's all, then enamel is applied or acrylic is poured. The entire work takes a maximum of 3-4 hours.
When studying reviews about self-restoration, a different picture emerges - there are many more stages and preparation often drags on for a day. There are two ways. The first is to delete upper layer using a grinder and flap sandpaper (remove the top layer of enamel, and do not clean it down to the metal). After removing the dust, you can paint.
The second way is to remove contaminants using acids, alkalis, and solvents. Both methods have been tried and work equally well. It is up to you to choose what is better - dust and sound when processed with an angle grinder, or odors when processed with chemicals.
Here's what to do before restoring enamel using chemical method cleansing:
Application of self-leveling acrylic
Restoring a bathtub using self-leveling acrylic is perhaps the most easy way update it (albeit not the cheapest), you just need to know a few subtleties.
The first point concerns the thickness and temperature of the material. For a normal polymerization process, a temperature of 22-26°C is required. In order for liquid acrylic to spread normally, it must stand in a warm room for at least a day. During this time, the composition will reach the required temperature. There is another option - put it in a bucket or basin with warm water (not hot, but warm). Only in this case is there a chance of overheating. Then it will be too fluid, the layer on the bathtub will be much thinner than required. So we try to bring it exactly to the required temperature.
The second point is the absence of any drafts. Good masters work in enclosed spaces. They even sand the enamel with a grinder or treat it with acid. They do this in respirators, which is what we advise you to do. But they need to hurry, because for them time is money, and the owner has nowhere to rush. If you are doing the restoration of the bathroom coating for yourself, you can do all dusty or “smelly” work at open doors and ventilation turned on, then close the doors and wait until the temperature reaches the desired limit of 22°C or slightly higher.
The third point is to prevent the ingress of water droplets and dust. While the room is heating up, you need to wrap all the taps with polyethylene, completely eliminating the possibility of water getting in. In addition, it is necessary to wrap the shelves, heated towel rail or other devices and objects that are located above the bathtub with fabric. This is necessary to prevent the formation of condensation, drops of which can damage the surface of the uncured filling bath. Also: during work and polymerization (from two to five days), the doors must be kept closed. This way you maintain the required temperature and also reduce the possibility of dust, debris and insects getting onto the surface. It’s very disappointing when a midge or fly lands on a beautiful white surface. It is almost impossible to remove it without leaving traces. After complete hardening, you will have to sand it and fill it again, but the mark usually remains - there is not enough qualifications.
When the temperature in the bathroom has risen to 22°C, film or paper is placed under the outer edge of the bathroom, and a clean container is placed under the drain hole into which excess material will be drained. If the edge of the bathroom is tiled, so as not to get dirty, it is covered with masking tape, making sure that the edge is smooth.
For further work you will need a regular or rubber spatula about 10 cm wide, plastic container with a volume of 500-600 ml (a beer glass will do). Open the jar with the acrylic heated to the desired temperature, carefully remove the remaining acrylic from the lid with a spatula and place it in the jar. Then the material is also cleaned from the walls. All walls must be clean so that there is no acrylic left on them that is not mixed with the hardener.
The hardener that comes with the acrylic is poured into the jar and mixed for 15 minutes. You can stir with a planed wooden stick or a drill attachment at low speed. It’s safer to use a stick - you’re guaranteed not to damage the can or splash the material. If you decide to use a drill, the nozzle should not have burrs or sharp protrusions, and the speed should be as low as possible. When stirring, work the bottom and edges well.
Leave the stirred naive bath acrylic for 10 minutes, then stir again for 5 minutes. You must work either without a shirt or in clothes that will not touch the edges of the bathtub.
We put the jar in the bath, take a container, pour the composition into it from the jar. We begin to pour from the glass onto the side with far edge bathroom, going around it on three sides. The composition slowly flows down, enveloping the surface, and is distributed in an even layer.
It is impossible to pour onto the side exactly under the wall, and the edge looks ugly. Take a spatula and carefully distribute the composition, covering the entire surface. It will level itself out.
Having poured three sides along the side, we begin to pour just above the place where the old coating is visible. We pass again on three sides. Usually two or three passes are enough to cover the entire surface; in some places you can make slight adjustments with a spatula, directing the material to the desired place.
Fill the near side last. It starts to drip, so work carefully. The process is the same. First at the top, then a couple of times a little lower.
The finishing touches. We move the corner of the spatula along the bottom of the bathtub in a zigzag motion. This will help distribute the composition evenly and avoid sagging. Finally, use a spatula to remove any drops that have hung there from the outer edge of the edge (just run the spatula blade along the edge).
The bath is left for 48 hours. After this, you can remove the tape, film, paper that was placed around. That's it, the restoration of the bathtub with your own hands is completed, but you can use it in another three days.
This is a bathtub “before” and “after” restoration with poured acrylic
Enameling a bath at home
About good compositions for enameling it was described above, so it is advisable to use them. There are instructions for use on the can, but the practical rules are the same as for regular painting. Only the preparation is unusual, but it has already been written about.
Some companies suggest priming the surface before applying enamel to the bathtub. If there is such an opportunity, this should be done. The primer is applied in the same way as enamel, after drying (the period is indicated on the can), sanded until smooth, then cleaned of dust, washed, and dried. Next, the enamel is applied.
To distribute the composition, you can use a good natural bristle brush or a small foam roller. To prevent bristles from coming out of the brush, soak it in water for a day and remove everything that comes out with your hands. There are no problems with the roller.
A hardener is poured into the main composition. Measure exactly as recommended, no more, no less. Stir well, paying special attention to the bottom and walls. When using a roller, some of the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the tub - this makes it easier to work with. Use a brush to take the composition from the jar. They try to apply the enamel or primer evenly, without leaving unpainted areas or streaks.
After priming, sanding is required, followed by cleaning from dust, and after applying enamel, you need to look at the results. If everything is smooth, you can stop there. If you are not satisfied with the appearance, you need to sand it again. smoothing out the unevenness and painting again. Sometimes up to 4 layers are necessary.
Self-installation of acrylic liner (insert)
Restoring a bathroom using this technology has its own peculiarity: if the side of the bathtub is tiled, it must be removed. Not the most pleasant moment. You can do without removing the tiles if the side of the bathroom protrudes from underneath it by at least 1 cm. Then the liner can be trimmed along the edge. Cut it with a grinder or jigsaw along the marked line
When removing tiles, they are trimmed along the wall using a grinder with diamond blade. Then, using a puncher, the edging is gradually beaten off. Next, remove the siphon, clean the drain and overflow holes from dirt. We measure their position in the bathroom - the location must be transferred to the liner. The match must be perfect. In the marked places, holes are drilled using a crown of the appropriate diameter placed on a drill.
Let's proceed directly to installing the acrylic liner:
- In the bathtub, around the drain and overflow holes, apply a solid strip of acrylic sealant. We don't skimp on the sealant - it will prevent leaks.
- Using special foam (FOME-PRO) we apply stripes to the surface of the bathtub. On the bottom - 4-5 pieces lengthwise and transverse stripes in increments of 5-7 cm. On side surfaces, with an approach to the side - three stripes in the corners, and on the sides they make a cage with a pitch of 5-7 cm. Two stripes are laid on the side. In general, the foam should be distributed evenly.
At the bottom we make a “mesh” of special foam
- We insert the liner from above, trying not to displace the foam on the sides. You need to lower it in the center, carefully.
- Smooth the liner along the entire length of the sides, walls and bottom. The bottom must be pressed especially carefully.
- Silicone will come out of the drain holes. We delete it.
- Special grates are installed on the drain and overflow - they have a special fastening, since the thickness of the bathtub has become much larger.
- Filling the bath cold water, leave for 8-12 hours - the time of foam polymerization.
- We install the sides. They are placed on mounting foam, the joints are sealed with sealant.
- The bath is ready.
Over time, any bathtub loses its former novelty: the color fades, an unpleasant roughness appears, the enamel cracks... If your bathtub has lost its beauty, you don’t necessarily have to spend money on a new one. Restore old bath will not be difficult, especially since you can choose the most suitable method.
Before you begin restoring a bathtub, you need to make sure that it is being renovated and not disposed of.
The bath can be updated if:
- the enamel has become rough;
- there are shallow cracks, scratches and chips of the enamel;
- the color faded and became a dirty yellow.
If the body of your bath is deformed, or deep cracks have formed in it, no restoration will help here.
Enamelling
Cast-iron baths are available in almost all apartments in the post-Soviet space. These are reliable non-lifting structures that are easier to repair than replace, which is what we will do today.
The enamel on such bathrooms wears out for several reasons. Firstly, the service life is too long. As a rule, enamel lasts about 10-15 years correct use. If the apartment, for example, was built back in Soviet times, then the “natural death” of the enamel should have occurred a long time ago. Therefore, if you get such a “treasure”, you must immediately restore it. cast iron bath. Secondly, during operation, household chemicals, sometimes very aggressive, are used to clean the surface. Slowly but surely they destroy the enamel and speed up the repair time.
Restoring a smooth enamel coating at home is quite simple. You just need to purchase necessary tools and materials and get to work.
Tools and materials:
- drill with grinding attachment;
- abrasive powder;
- rust remover (you can buy special remedy in the store or get rid of rust with a “folk” remedy - “Coca-Cola”);
- sandpaper;
- degreasing agent;
- lint-free rags;
- flute brush made of natural bristles (flat);
- gloves;
- respirator;
- two-component enamel.
Progress:
Congratulations, you have refinished your bathtub! However, do not rush to bathe - before using it is better to wait about a week for the enamel to harden properly. Such a coating is "enough" for 6-10 years, depending on the quality of the enamel used.
Liquid acrylic
This is a relatively "young" way, which, nevertheless, has already gained popularity around the world because of its speed, convenience and durability. You just need to call the master, and literally in an hour you can enjoy the view of the snow-white renovated bathroom! But we have gathered here because it is not in our rules to spend money on the services of masters. Restoring a bathtub with your own hands using acrylic is as easy as shelling pears.
First, a few words about this very acrylic. This is a special high-strength composition called stacrylic. Stakryl is a two-component acrylic (acrylic and fixative) that is specially designed for bathtubs. That is, when buying stacryl, you simply cannot make a mistake, while enamel can be used both for cars and for water pipes, and for painting wood. Glass acrylic forms a dense film 4-6 mm thick, which does not allow water to pass through and has excellent performance characteristics.
Advantages of glass:
- viscosity;
- fluidity (the composition quickly envelops and is distributed over the surface);
- slow polymerization (low rates of hardening help to carry out restoration efficiently and without haste);
- protection from mechanical damage (in its frozen form there is no fear that the composition will break off from an accidental blow).
Progress:
- Prepare the surface of the bath in the same way as in the case of enameling.
- Disconnect the siphon and place a plastic container under the drain (you can use a cut-off five-liter bottle). The acrylic will flow there.
- Prepare the acrylic mixture according to the instructions on the package and begin pouring it in a thin stream over the edge of the bathtub. As soon as the mixture flows down to the middle height of the sides, begin to slowly move along the perimeter. When you return to the starting point, repeat the procedure again, starting from the middle of the bath.
- Acrylic must be poured continuously, so you must immediately ensure that the container is of the appropriate size. It is better not to save money in this matter, since redoing mistakes after improper handling of glass is much more difficult than restoring an ordinary enamel bathtub.
Polymerization takes from two to four days, depending on the type of composition. It is best to take your time and choose acrylic with long term hardening (the longer the better). In this case, it will be much stronger and will last much longer than quick-drying compounds. The service life of acrylic coating is about 20 years.
Video on how to restore a bathtub using acrylic:
Insert or “bath in bath”
The most basic, but at the same time the most expensive way to restore a bathtub. Its essence is as follows: the surface of the bathtub is smeared with glue and a thin “cast” of identical dimensions is inserted into it. Everything seems simple, but you can only get such a liner at the factory where the baths are made. If you live near one of these businesses or have managed to purchase one, the following instructions are written especially for you!
Progress:
Now you know how to restore the bath yourself. As a good parting word, we can only advise you not to limit yourself to the standard white color, but to choose the shade of enamel in accordance with the interior or your own fantasies. So, black bathtubs look very impressive, but you should be warned that this is a “capricious” color that requires permanent care. Blue and green colors will allow you to relax and unwind, and orange will instantly lift your spirits!
Sooner or later, the enamel of any bathtub becomes thinner, indelible rust stains appear on it, and its owner is saddened to note that it is time to change the equipment. This difficult procedure is very labor-intensive, so many are trying to figure out how to update an old cast-iron bathtub and whether it is even possible. Despite the fact that the appearance of such a device leaves much to be desired, the design fully retains all its performance characteristics. Therefore, restoration should consist only of applying a new enamel coating. Modern technologies allow you to do this.
Is it worth restoring old equipment?
The most obvious solution is to replace the plumbing equipment. Let's try to estimate how much such an event will cost. To the cost of the simplest bathtub we add the costs of transporting it and lifting the device to the floor, if required. In addition, a certain amount will be required to pay for the dismantling of old equipment and installation of new ones. At the lowest prices, all this will require about 12,000 rubles. This is only the case when the wall and flooring will not be damaged by installation work. Otherwise, you will also have to pay for partial bathroom renovations.
Removing an old bathtub and installing a new one is a troublesome and costly undertaking. If the enamel of the equipment has become thinner or washed away, but the device itself is still in good condition, you should think about restoration
Thus, for a fairly large sum, we get a modest result, since the cost of the cheapest bath was included in the calculation. If you want a more convenient or high-quality design, you will have to increase the expected cost item. Not everyone can afford such costs, so they want to restore their cast-iron bathtub. This is a cheaper and more effective solution.
However, it is very important to choose the restoration method wisely. There are only three of them:
- covering the bathtub with acrylic;
- applying a new layer of enamel to the surface of the device;
- installation of acrylic liner.
Let's look at each method in more detail.
What restoration methods exist?
Option #1 - acrylic coating
Restoring a cast iron bathtub by “pouring” acrylic is considered one of the simplest. This is enough new method, which managed to gain popularity among consumers. It consists of applying a liquid acrylic solution by pouring onto the surface of the equipment. Its advantages include:
- Durability. The coating obtained in this way, provided it is applied correctly, retains its properties for about 8-15 years. This is due to the fact that acrylic is applied in a fairly thick layer of about 6 mm.
- Smooth glossy finish. The composition is quite thick. It spreads well over the surface of the device, filling possible irregularities, forming an almost perfectly flat and smooth plane.
- Relative simplicity and high speed of application of liquid acrylic.
- Absence unpleasant odor, which allows you to perform work even in houses where allergy sufferers, children and the elderly live.
There are also disadvantages of the method. These include the drying time of the composition. This usually takes about three days, during which it is not recommended to even approach the device. Because debris, dust particles or water accidentally falling on the drying surface can ruin it.
Despite the apparent simplicity of applying acrylic using the pouring method, it is a rather complex method of restoration. Requires certain skills to work with composition
Another negative point is the relatively high cost. It is higher than that of enameling. However, this price is quite justified more for a long time operation and good quality coverings.
Option #2 - do-it-yourself enameling
Most old way restoration. It vaguely resembles painting, but you need to clearly understand that in this case special enamel is applied. This is exactly what you need to choose when wondering what you can use to paint a cast iron bathtub. There are two types of such compositions: for professional application and for self-application. The first ones are very liquid and require laying in several layers. This is a rather complicated procedure. The second ones are thicker and, accordingly, easier to apply.
The correctly selected composition is applied using a roller, or more often a brush, onto the prepared surface of the equipment. Advantages of this method:
- The cheapest restoration option.
- There is no need to dismantle and subsequently install the drain and overflow.
- Suitable for both cast iron and steel bathtubs.
Enameling has many more disadvantages:
- The service life of new enamel is about 5 years.
- The composition applied to the surface of the equipment takes quite a long time to dry - about 5-7 days.
- The coating is hard and therefore very sensitive to impacts. Over time, chips may appear.
- The enamel is applied in a fairly thin layer, so it is not able to cover various surface irregularities such as dents, chips, etc.
- Over time, the epoxy coating will inevitably turn yellow.
You need to understand that the enamel obtained as a result of restoration is significantly different from the one that was originally applied to the equipment.
Cold enamel is the cheapest and easiest method of restoration. It resembles painting the surface with a special composition
To ensure that the enamel lasts as long as possible, you should: simple rules. For example, to clean an updated cast-iron bathtub you will need not abrasive powder, but soft soap solution. Otherwise the enamel will be damaged. The device should be protected from impacts, especially with sharp objects, and do not pour too much water into it. hot water. When filling the container, you should first open the cold water tap and only then open the hot water tap.
Option #3 - “bath to bath” method
This is the name of the restoration method, which consists of installing an acrylic liner inside the old structure that completely follows its contours. The insert is mounted on a special adhesive foam. With proper work, the service life of the bathtub after restoration is about 15 years. The main advantages of the method:
- Durability of the new coating. Acrylic is much stronger than enamel.
- A smooth surface that hides all defects of the old structure.
- The surface will not turn yellow over time.
- A successful combination of the advantages of an acrylic and cast iron bathtub.
The disadvantages of this method include the need to dismantle drain siphon and a ban on the installation of inserts in thin structures, which are called “light cast iron” or “thin cast iron”. This is due to the fact that the equipment may sag and the adhesive layer securing the liner will be damaged. The “bath to bath” method is very demanding on the quality of materials. It will not be possible to restore the bathtub using a low-quality insert or unsuitable glue.
Installing an acrylic liner is easy and effective method restoration. Special attention you need to pay attention to the size of the insert. It should fit the bath perfectly
All three methods require preparing the equipment for the update. This step usually involves cleaning the cast iron bathtub from dirt and grease. Degreasing is carried out using oxalic acid or baking soda. All defects are carefully cleaned so that the surface is smooth. Then grinding is carried out. The result should be a rough surface. When the desired composition is applied to it, adhesion to it will be maximum.
To restore or not - objective conclusions
The decision to restore or replace an old bathtub, of course, will be made by its owner. However, you need to know that if you carry out restoration work correctly and use only quality materials, the updated bathtub will last for a long time. It may be worth entrusting this task to experienced specialists with a good reputation. Then for relatively little money you can get excellent results.
A cast iron bathtub is something that will last for a long time. But over time even the most high-quality coating loses its visual appeal. Replacing a cast iron bathtub is a troublesome task, so the question arises, how to repair a cast iron bathtub?
Of course, renovating a bathtub is quite labor-intensive and requires patience. However, many people prefer to carry out restoration rather than replacing the bathtub with a new model. There are three main ways to restore the appearance of a bathtub. Let's consider each of them.
Applying new enamel
To complete the work you will need:
- Drill with attachment for removing old coating.
- Oxalic acid.
- Composition for surface degreasing.
- Enamel.
- Brush for applying enamel.
The work is performed in the following sequence.
- The surface of the bath is cleaned of the layer of previous enamel. The easiest way to do this is with a drill with an appropriate attachment.
- If there is water stone on the surface, it should be removed using oxalic acid.
- The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and degreased.
To make it easier to collect dust, you should cover all surfaces in the bathroom with old newspapers or sheets.
- Fill the prepared bath with hot water and soak for ten minutes. Then drain the water, wipe the surface thoroughly and let it dry well.
- Prepare the enamel by mixing the main component with the hardener.
- Apply the first layer of enamel to the dry surface of the bathtub. Allow 20-30 minutes to dry.
- Apply the second and third coats, remembering to allow time to dry.
- The last fourth layer is strengthening. After its application, the repair can be considered complete.
You will be able to use the bathroom after applying the enamel no earlier than three days later.
Sanding the bathtub and applying new enamel
What's good about this method?
- It allows you to change the color of the bath at your discretion, choosing the desired shade.
- The work can be successfully completed independently, even with modest experience in construction.
This restoration method has significantly more disadvantages:
- The method is labor-intensive; the process of cleaning the enamel generates a lot of dust.
- The strength of the resulting coating cannot be compared with factory enameling. It will need to be handled with extreme care, but even in this case, the new coating will last no more than 20 months.
Using Acrylic Liner
Bathtub renovation using an acrylic liner
To complete this work you will need:
- Bathtub-sized sanitary acrylic liner.
- Mounting two-component foam or special mastic.
- Silicone sealant.
This recovery method is one of the simplest and most effective. To implement this, you should purchase an acrylic bathtub liner.
A good result can only be achieved if the acrylic liner is of high quality. Therefore, when purchasing, you should definitely require the presentation of a certificate.
Repair procedure:
- First you should prepare the liner by making holes in it for draining and overflowing.
- The space near the holes made is lubricated with sealant.
- The liner is secured in place using two-component foam or special mastic.
- The foam should be applied evenly over the entire surface of the liner, otherwise voids will appear in which the acrylic will sag.
The consequence of such a defect will be the rapid appearance of cracks.
Advantages of this method:
- can be carried out without special costs labor and quickly enough.
- Provided that a high quality liner was used, the bathtub can last for a long time.
- The surface of the acrylic liner is smooth and shiny, it is wear-resistant and does not lose color during use.
The disadvantages include the need to carry out work before finishing the walls in the room. Otherwise, you will have to break off the tiles located around the perimeter of the bath.
Using liquid acrylic or the pour-over bath method
Bathroom renovation using liquid acrylic
To perform restoration using this method, you will need a special composition - liquid acrylic, which is sold under the brand name "Stakryl". In essence, this method is similar to enameling a bathtub, but the material consumption is an order of magnitude greater, and, therefore, the layer of the new coating will be thicker. Due to the use of a modern hardener, the material spreads evenly over the surface, so there is no need to distribute it manually.
When using this method, as when applying enamel, careful surface preparation will be required. You will need to thoroughly clean the bathtub from the old coating, degrease, wash and dry it.
Acrylic coating, unlike enamel, is not applied with a brush, but is poured over the surface (hence the name of the method). Filling begins from the upper sides, then the walls in the lower part and, lastly, the bottom are processed.
When performing this work, you need to disconnect the bathroom drain and place a container under the drain hole into which excess material will drain. This ensures that the acrylic is applied evenly.
The coating layer will be about 6 mm. You will be able to use the bathroom 3-4 days after the work is completed, as the new coating should have time to dry well.
The disadvantages of this method are that it is labor intensive, but the resulting coating is of higher quality and more durable than when using enamel. This coating is more resistant to mechanical damage, and the wide range of colors of the Stakryl material allows you to choose the shade of the bathtub to suit your taste.
By using one of the methods described above, you can successfully repair an old cast iron bathtub. Of course, if you plan to carry out repairs on your own, then performing this work will require time and significant labor costs. However, restoration is still cheaper and easier than replacing a bathtub.
After all, cast iron is a very heavy metal, and it is extremely difficult to transport and install bathtubs made of this material. If you do not want or have the opportunity to carry out restoration work yourself, you can place an order with companies that are engaged in restoring the enamel of old bathtubs.
