There are many ways to propagate roses. But for amateur floriculture, a very simple and reliable method is most suitable - cuttings of roses. Rooting cuttings can be carried out in a container of water or in a pot of soil.

It is better to cut the cuttings before the flowering of the rose shoot, when the buds are stained (not later). When cutting the cuttings at a later date, the percentage of their rooting decreases, and the rooting itself takes more time.

The method of propagating roses by cuttings is as follows: I cut off a shoot from a bush, and then I cut cuttings with three buds from its middle part. At the same time, under the lower kidney of the cutting I make an oblique cut (at an angle of 45 degrees), and above the upper kidney - a straight cut. I remove the bottom leaf of the cutting completely, and shorten the upper leaves to 1/3 of the surface.

Rooting rose cuttings in water

I put rose cuttings in water and place them in partial shade, in a warm greenhouse. The utensils and water used must be clean. It is better to take boiled water: there are a lot of pathogenic fungi in raw water, and blue-green algae in rainwater, which multiply rapidly. All care for rose cuttings is to add and change water.

After 20-30 days, when the cuttings of roses have roots, I plant them in pots with fertile soil.

In winter, I keep rooted cuttings of roses in a room on the windowsill (care for them is the same as when saving annual seedlings of own-rooted roses).

This method of rooting cuttings of roses has a drawback - there is not enough oxygen for the formation of roots in cuttings in water. For example, a rose variety Flamentanz I was not able to propagate in this way: all its cuttings rotted. Rooting such cuttings in a pot with soil and sand is more successful.

Rooting rose cuttings in the soil

With a small number of cuttings climbing roses can be rooted in pots. To do this, cut cuttings of roses are planted in pots with fertile soil. To prevent the stalk of the rose from rotting, in the center of the pot filled with the substrate, you need to make a recess (using a thick stick) and pour washed coarse-grained river sand into this recess. It is in this sand that the prepared rose cutting should be planted so that it does not touch the lower part of the fertile soil. I carefully water the planted stalk and cover glass jar, painted with water-based paint.

A prerequisite for the rooting of rose cuttings is a long daylight hours and a sufficient amount of soft light (therefore, the glass of the greenhouse jar must be painted or covered with a light-transmitting cloth); pots with rooted cuttings of roses do not need to be placed in the shade.

The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings of roses is 23-25 ​​degrees. I water cuttings as needed.

After the beginning of the growth of young shoots of roses, I begin to gradually open the jar. But you can finally remove the jar from the handle only after you make sure that the plant already has sufficiently long roots.

Best of all, rose cuttings take root if it is possible to spray the leaves of the cuttings with water every half an hour during the daytime. The water spray should be fine spray.

Manual spraying of numerous rooted cuttings of roses is quite laborious. This operation can be automated by using various fogging agents. automatic systems. But they are expensive and beneficial only with large volumes of rooting cuttings.

Automatic fogging systems can work on two principles:

1. According to the “dry-wet leaf” principle, when contacts open or close depending on the moisture content of the leaves;

2. With the use of a programmable time relay, when there is no “binding” to leaf moisture.

Both of these systems have both advantages and disadvantages.

I built a fogger for my entire greenhouse (6m x 3m) at a cost of $70.

Stefan Fedorovich Nedyalkov (Belarus)
[email protected]

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Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Flowering is long, begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, and are indispensable when creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, tapestries, green decoration of the walls of buildings, balconies, arbors.

There are so many varieties of climbing roses that would take a lot of time and space to describe. However, according to the nature of growth, these roses can be divided into three groups:

• Curly - from 5 m to 15 m high.
• Climbing height - from 3 m to 5 m.
• Semi-climbing height - from 1.5 m. - 3 m.

The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the phases of flowering and budding are very extended. The total duration of flowering is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-blooming roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

Choosing a place for planting and growing. For cultivation it is necessary to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are photophilous plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good lighting helps the growth ripen, on which flowering will occur next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, these flowers cannot be grown.

When choosing a place to plant, be sure to think about how you will lay the plants on the ground for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laid for the winter, they should not “cover” other plants that do not require shelter.

What should be the soil. To grow climbing roses, fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required. And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose, it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil friability.

Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root neck of a seedling at the age of 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem of the cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

When is the best time to plant roses? IN middle lane It is preferable to plant roses in Russia in autumn from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to the end of May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of planted roses do not dry out and suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are sprinkled with earth and sand to a height of 20-25 cm. sub-zero temperatures plants cover for the winter.

Preparing for landing. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp pruner. The aerial part is shortened to 30 cm, long roots are also cut off - up to 30 cm, cutting rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild shoots will develop from them. Seedlings are disinfected by dipping in 3% copper sulphate.

Landing. landing pits prepare the size of 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not strongly bend the roots of plants. They are supposed to be freely laid out in a hole so that they go to the bottom without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are planted 5 cm deep, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled two thirds of the depth with earth, compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water has been absorbed, the pit is filled with earth, and the seedling is spudded to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the level of hilling is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the ground is carefully raked from the bush. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, they open and process roses in the same way. autumn planting. At the same time, care must be taken to ensure that the most sensitive place of the whole plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring, new shoots will grow over it.

If a climbing rose grows against a wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought to the wall itself with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose were grown right next to the wall, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

With late spring planting held in dry warm weather, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of wet peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3-5 buds.

Caring for climbing roses

Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely top dressing, pruning, disease and pest control, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, plants must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout almost the entire summer.

How to water. Good plant care is first and foremost proper watering. During the growing season, roses consume a lot of water. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the location of the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which helps to retain moisture in the soil and better air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by mulching the soil.

The lack of moisture in the soil is reflected in the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts in the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering from a hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

Top dressing. To ensure proper care of plants, it is necessary to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed after 10-20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with complete, complex ones. Fertilizers can be both dry and liquid.

First of all, in the spring, liquid top dressing is carried out with a complete mineral fertilizer(according to instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg of ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and watered roses under the root. Such an operation will provide an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such top dressing, alternating with each other, should be done until mid-summer. From mid-July, they stop feeding with nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash fertilizers so that the bush has already begun preparing for winter.

With any top dressing, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an excess of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may worsen. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Pruning plays a very important role in the care of climbing roses.

The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long flowering, and maintain plants in a healthy state.

At good care roses grow long shoots over the summer, up to 2-3.5 m. They are covered for the winter. In the spring of the next year, only frozen and podpreshy shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned to a strong outer bud.

In the future, climbing roses are pruned, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoot formation.

The first form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They don't bloom again. In exchange for faded shoots, the so-called main (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 recovery (replacement) shoots that will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut out to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should consist of only 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots for three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut out after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong growth shoots form at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when roses are well cared for), then the main shoots are cut out, as in the first group.

In repeat-flowering bushes, it is enough to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. re blooming roses It is recommended to prune in early spring. The meaning of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be cut.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved to their full length, only the tops with underdeveloped buds should be removed. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be cut; the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful maintenance can ensure almost continuous blooming of roses in your garden throughout the growing season.

Reproduction of climbing roses

Cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2-3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cutting is planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or immediately in the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered from above with a glass jar or film and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Cuttings in early spring also give good results. During spring pruning there are many cut shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Shelter of roses for the winter can take several days.

Be prepared for the fact that the shelter for the winter of a climbing rose can last for several days, or even for a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature, in frost the stems become brittle and break easily. In no case do not try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or into two bundles and then spread them out in different directions.

If you feel that the stems may break when tilting the bush, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover a rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes this has to be done even in the snow. In the southern regions, there is enough shelter from lutrasil. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite diverse: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and there is no need to talk about how these plants transform the faceless walls of buildings.

Climbing roses can brighten up a home like no other. flowering plant. One climbing rose is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or emphasize the originality of the facade, to add romance to the previously ordinary entrance to the house.

Climbing roses can decorate any household plot. Most often, these flowers are grown in regions with a mild climate. Now, thanks to the work of breeders, gardeners in the cold Ural regions and Siberia also have the opportunity to grow chic climbing rose bushes in their gardens.

The value of climbing roses is in flexible shoots growing up to three meters, which allows them to be widely used in vertical gardening. Gardeners decorate them with arches, arbors, walls of houses. There are a lot of varieties of climbing roses (more details), so with patience and imagination, you can easily create a multi-colored rose garden fragrant with aromas on your site.

Many gardeners are trying to propagate climbing roses with their own hands. This is primarily due to the high cost planting material in shops. In this article, we will talk in detail about possible ways breeding climbing roses.

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting (budding). The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only on condition of purchase seed in the respective store. As you know, independently harvested seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or garden do not carry varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Each breeding method has its own characteristics and difficulties, which are not always amenable to those who are just starting to breed these amazing plants. The simplest, giving a greater percentage of survival, is the propagation of climbing roses by cuttings, root offspring and layering.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings- most easy way, almost always giving a 100% positive result.

Planting material is cut before the shoot blooms (in spring) or 10 days after flowering. There must be at least three buds on the shoot, ready for growth. The middle part is separated from the shoot, on which there should be three live buds. The bottom is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, the top - 90 degrees. All the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half.

You can root cuttings of roses in several ways:

Rooting a rose cutting in water

To get a healthy climbing rose, the stalk must be placed in boiled water. The cutting needs a shaded place, so the sun can burn the planting material. Water is changed every other day. On average, the root system will form in about a month. The cutting can be planted on permanent place. The only problem that arises with this method of reproduction is the lack of oxygen, which often leads to decay of the cutting.

Rooting a rose cutting in the ground

It is possible to propagate a climbing rose by rooting cuttings immediately in the soil. To prevent decay, coarse-grained sand is poured under the planting material. It must be scalded with boiling water to kill harmful microorganisms. After abundant watering from above, the planting is covered with a jar of glass. The jar can be painted over with a white water-based emulsion or thrown over with a white cloth. The container is placed on a well-lit window, but not in the sun. Cuttings root well at temperatures from +23 to +25°C. The "greenhouse" is lifted from time to time for ventilation. The jar can be removed when the plant gives good roots.

Rooting a rose cutting in a plastic bag

Cuttings to obtain a new rose bush are first moistened with aloe juice, planted in a pot, spilled warm water. After that, they put it in a large bag, tie it up and hang it in front of the window. The bag creates high humidity, fog. As a rule, rooting occurs after 30 days. It remains only to land the planting material in the ground. Cuttings root best in spring.

Rooting a rose cutting in a potato

There is nothing surprising in the propagation of climbing roses in young potatoes, no. This is a long-tried and reliable method that even a novice gardener can handle.

What does a potato give to a cutting during reproduction:
. maintaining a constant moist environment
. the future rose feeds on the carbohydrates and starch contained in the root

Before propagating roses with cuttings planted in a potato, a trench is dug at least 15 cm deep. The bottom is covered with sand with a layer of 5 centimeters. The stalk should be up to 20 cm. Thorns and leaves are removed from it. Eyes are cut out from the potato to deprive it of vegetation, and the cuttings are inserted with a sharp end. Live "capacity" is laid out at a distance of 15 cm.

Planting must be protected from wind and sun at first, therefore, when propagating a climbing rose, shelter is required. They can serve as an ordinary glass jar or a piece of tin.

You can open the garden with roses after 14 days to accustom the plants to the climate. After another 14 days, the rose fully opens.

In this method of propagating climbing roses, it is important to use shoots growing at the root collar. In early March, they are bent to the ground and laid in small grooves, then sprinkled with loose soil.

The tops of the shoots remain outside, and in places of contact with the ground, ring cuts must be made to increase the intensity of the influx of nutrients.

By autumn, layering will take root, but they can be separated only next spring, and weak plants - only a year later. Under the natural conditions of our country, the tops of climbing roses that are not covered with snow die off, so the shoots that should become layering in the spring are bent to the ground and covered with peat.

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a wild rose bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. Best time for this operation - the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the wild rose should be generously watered.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. In this kind of "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we tightly press the eye to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is spudded, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the advent new spring it is removed for good.

How to properly bud a rose, you can use this example: "Grafting an apple tree by budding"

Climbing rose seeds are pre-soaked in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of growing the plant. After we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, cover with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also impregnated with peroxide.

The resulting "sandwich" is placed in a plastic bag and hidden in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully moved into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mix. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

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There are many ways to propagate a climbing rose. Some of them are quite traditional, others are original and innovative. Each of these methods includes its own nuances, following which you can get your own rose garden by next year.

Ways to propagate climbing roses

Climbing roses, like many other crops, can be propagated by seed. However, gardeners are holders of these beautiful flowers, most often choose vegetative propagation. This is the most efficient and effective way to increase the number of roses in your area. The basis of this method is the ability of climbing beauties to regenerate their body from one of its parts - a leaf, stem, root.

All cultivated roses are propagated vegetatively.

Plants obtained by vegetative propagation, are called own-rooted, since a leaf or offspring is planted - these parts are overgrown with their own roots, from which you can grow a new plant that has the same genes as the mother.

Roses can be propagated vegetatively in several ways:

• layering;
• root suckers;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

In addition, a new rose bush can be obtained by grafting (growing) an eye (bud) of a varietal rose onto a healthy bush wild rosehip. This method is called "budding". Grafted roses grow faster than native roses, but they are more labor intensive to care for. Roses grown on "their" roots have high vitality - they are more hardy and winter-hardy.

It is easiest for an ordinary gardener to propagate roses by offspring, layering or cuttings. These are the least labor intensive and more effective ways. However, it should be borne in mind that not all varieties of this flower can be propagated by cuttings. And flowering from new plants can be achieved only after a couple of years. Budding technique is a little more complicated than previous breeding methods and requires additional skills from the gardener. In addition, there is a need to produce healthy, well-developed rootstocks.

Each method has its pros and cons. Which one to use for you will help the analysis of each method in more detail.

Terms of procedures for the propagation of climbing roses

Each breeding method has its own timing. So green cuttings are usually carried out from the end of June to the third decade of July. If the cuttings are planted later than July 15, they will not have time to germinate before winter, and will die. If the cuttings were harvested in the fall, then they are planted in the ground in March-April, but only in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Some flower growers manage to plant cuttings even in September. But with this method, it is important to securely cover the plantings for the winter or move them home until spring.

Vaccination is recommended to be carried out in spring and summer - this is due to the beginning of sap flow (for roses, intense juice goes twice for warm season: April-May and July-August). It is customary to carry out budding at such times due to the fact that during sap flow the bark is easily separated from the cambium, which means that the stock will be easier to prepare. In addition, it was at this time that all life processes in a pink plant go faster, and therefore fusion will occur in a short time.

Experienced gardeners manage to bud in winter. To obtain a positive result, the scion and stock must be prepared in advance: the rootstocks are dug up in the fall and stored in a cold place, and the scions are cut in advance. Table grafting allows you to more accurately connect the scion to the root neck of the stock.

Layers for rooting are selected and added dropwise in the ground at the end of March, as soon as the snow completely melts and the vegetation process begins soon. From layering, a new plant is obtained by mid-autumn. At the same time, offspring are rooted. The division of the bush is carried out in early spring, planting the separated parts of the plant immediately in open ground. By autumn, they will already be rooted enough to successfully bloom next year.

seed propagation

The most time-consuming and time-consuming method in the process is that it will take many years to get an adult flowering plant. Most often, seed propagation is used by breeders or amateur rose growers who want to get a new one. unique variety or grow rootstock for roses. For propagation of roses in a similar way, seeds collected by oneself or bought in a store are suitable.

Note!

From seeds it is impossible to obtain a plant similar in genotype to the mother. Neither the color of the flowers, nor the form, nor the productivity in the new plant will be repeated.

Seeds are harvested when the fruits begin to turn red - seeds from these fruits will sprout better. Sowing is carried out in the second decade of April in a common seedling box. Before the sowing procedure, the seeds are disinfected with hydrogen peroxide. Rose seeds take a very long time to germinate. You can improve their germination by creating stress for them: first, you need to keep the material in a humid environment for a couple of days high temperature and then place them in the refrigerator for another 1-2 days. Refrigeration will help activate the seeds. Seedlings germinate in 1.5-2 months. In early summer, seedlings are planted in open ground. When transplanting, minerals and a fungicide against root rot are added to the hole. Plantings are regularly sprayed with a disinfectant solution so that by autumn the seedlings can successfully grow a strong, and most importantly, healthy root system.

The germination of rose seeds is very low, so it will have to be sown very a large number of seed material.

If by autumn the young bushes are not strong enough, then for the winter they can be transplanted into pots and withstand the cold months at home on the windowsill or cellar, and planted in the flower garden in the spring. In the second year after sowing the seeds, a flowering plant can be obtained.

cuttings

It is believed that climbing roses, like no other, are suitable for propagation by cuttings. This method has a lot of advantages: there is always a large amount of planting material at hand, practically no costs are required, and a new varietal plant is obtained in a short time.

It has been observed that varieties with dark petals take root best of all. But light roses grow roots much longer and harder.

Procurement of cuttings

Cuttings are harvested from a one-year-old shoot. From the branch, the middle region is chosen, the thickness of the handle should be at least 5 millimeters. Semi-lignified cuttings are best rooted, which are cut from the plant after it enters the budding phase. After pruning, each branch should contain a minimum of 2 buds and a maximum of two leaves. In this case, all the spikes are cut off. The upper cut is made 2 centimeters above the kidney, the lower one is immediately below the lowest located kidney.

The lower end is soaked in a growth stimulator (Kornevin or Heteroauxin preparations) and planted in a soil substrate at an angle of 45 degrees.

Too woody or green escape increases the engraftment time, since the roots on it will develop very slowly. Therefore, it is not recommended to make cuttings from such stems.

Planting cuttings

Landing is carried out in an impromptu greenhouse - a recess in the ground in the quietest and sunniest place in the garden. The greenhouse is prepared in advance, the bottom is covered with manure and covered with a film to create an optimal climate. Then the shelter is removed, and the manure layer is covered with soddy soil and cleaned sand (peat can be used). During the procedure for planting cuttings, the soil must be well moistened.

Seedlings are deepened by 1.5-2 centimeters, maintaining a distance between processes of 5-6 centimeters. The first 12-14 days, the cuttings are under the film, which all this time must be regularly removed for ventilation. In order to maintain a humidity of 80-90% inside, the cuttings are constantly sprayed with warm water. They also wet the ground.

Closer to the month, the cuttings will take root, the buds will begin to develop. As soon as the kidneys turn green and swell, the film is removed.

Cuttings planted in spring may bloom this summer. However, the mission of the gardener is to grow a strong productive plant. Therefore, all buds will need to be removed. Only next summer, rooted cuttings will turn into young pink bushes. And only then they can be transplanted into the rose garden to adult plants.

Woody rose cuttings

Such cuttings are cut at the end of autumn when pruning roses. Some gardeners keep twigs until spring, while others prefer to plant cuttings in the fall. Still others root future roses in pots or jars at home.

Methods for rooting cuttings:

• Bouquet cuttings. The strongest are selected from the cut flowers. They are cut into cuttings 12-15 centimeters long. Each cutting should have 2-3 buds.

Attention!

The cutting is cut from the middle of the stem. The top of the branch for cuttings is not suitable!

The lower cut is made at an angle, the upper one is straight. The lower part is covered with brilliant green, soaked in a growth stimulator, and then planted in loose soil consisting of turf and sand. Cuttings can be planted immediately in separate cups and covered with the same glass on top to create a greenhouse effect. The disadvantage of this method of reproduction is the low percentage of rooting of cuttings.

Up to three cuttings can be placed under one jar.

Caring for such plantings is quite simple: you need to regularly moisten the ground, loosen the soil around the cans. In a month, the cuttings will start up the first leaves. Seedlings are left in this state until spring. For the winter, they will need to be covered with a thick layer of foliage or sawdust. In the spring, banks can be removed as soon as warm weather sets in.

• Rooting in the package. If there are few cuttings (10-15 pieces), then they can be germinated in the usual plastic bag. To do this, moss, peat (moistened with aloe solution), or earth with sand are poured into the bottom of the bag and the twigs soaked in the growth solution are stuck into the substrate. The bag is filled with air and closed, hung in a sunny place. A week later, a callus will appear at the branches, and after another 14 days, roots will appear. It is permissible to open the package only a month after planting the branches - all the previous time the cuttings do not bother. Those plants that have taken root best of all are transplanted into pots and covered with a film. Underdeveloped seedlings are again placed in a bag for "ripening". Well-grown bushes are transplanted into a flower garden only the next year.
• Rooting in water. Cut cuttings can be placed in water (lower part), and covered with a film on top. It should not be removed until rooting occurs.
• Cuttings in potatoes. You can even root a rose using an ordinary potato. For this method, young tubers are selected without signs of disease and lesions, all eyes are cut out of them. A small hole is made in the potato and a rose stalk is stuck in. The potatoes themselves are placed in a small earthen hole covered with sand. Potatoes are an ideal environment for the formation of roots from a young twig, since the root crop contains all the necessary nutrients for this.

Note!

Such rooting is carried out in the spring, when the weather is comfortable for the germination of flowers.

The division of the bush

If for some reason a climbing rose needs to be transplanted to another place, then there is a great chance to get several new plants from one shrub at once. For propagation of roses by dividing the bush, adult shrubs are suitable with strongly developed powerful roots. The bush is divided into several parts so that each part has a piece of a common root system and 2-3 shoots with buds. Shoots and roots are cut by a third. Before planting, the roots are dipped in a clay-dung mash. If there is no confidence in the viability of the roots, then they can be soaked in a growth stimulator. From the newly planted bushes, in two or three years, a new climbing plant will develop, pleasing lush bloom all summer.

layering

The climbing rose, thanks to its long flexible shoots, can be easily propagated by layering. Roses are propagated in the spring, when the earth warms up well, and by this time the bushes will be treated for pests and diseases and cut off. For diversion, a reviving shoot of one year old is chosen. It is placed in a shallow groove, in the ground, well fertilized with compost or humus. The whip is laid horizontally for its entire length so that the end remains above the ground. To prevent the whip from “jumping out”, it is pinned with garden staples. The end is tied to a small peg - so it will stretch up, and not grow into the ground.

Attention!

Only one lash can be removed from one bush. If you take a few, kut will weaken and may get sick.

During the warm season, the layering has time to take root. To make this happen faster, before instillation, you can cut the bark near the kidneys. The land in which the lash sprouts should be in a semi-moist state, so it is important to water it regularly, carry out light loosening, and get rid of the weed. For best result soil can be shed liquid fertilizer. At the end of summer, the lash will sprout, many new sprouts will appear - this will mean that a new root system has formed and developed sufficiently inside.

The "ripe" layering is separated from the mother bush and planted in a new place in September. Although many experts advise to leave new roots on the parent plant until spring, this way new seedlings will have more strength to survive the cold winter. In the spring, after the snow melts, a young bush is transplanted for permanent residence. Already in the first year, a climbing rose can bloom. However, it is better to overcome the desire to see blossoming flowers, and let the plant gain strength in the current year and grow up. To do this, the buds will have to be cut off. Do not be upset - the next year the rose obtained from the layering will bloom in full force.

From one whip you can get several new plants at once. Lay the shoot into the ground in waves: one bud above the surface, one underground.

Budding

Vaccination - effective way propagate varietal whimsical plant with the help of a more hardy, winter-hardy relative - an ordinary wild rose. It is on him that the eyes of those varietal roses are grafted, which for some reason grow poorly or bloom little. Thus, you can get a unique variety that will bloom magnificently even in unusual conditions.

At first, it seems that budding, that is, planting part of one plant onto another, is only possible for experienced gardeners. In fact, this method of reproduction in execution is quite simple, and even a beginner rose grower can master it. The essence of grafting is that the apical part of one plant (scion) is planted on the root system of another (rootstock). First you need to prepare the scion and stock.

Rootstock preparation:

• for grafting, choose a stock that is at least three years old;
• 12-14 days before the procedure, the main bush is spudded to a height of 20-25 centimeters with moist earth. This is necessary in order to form a stronger root system;
• on the eve of grafting, the bush is generously watered with warm water;
• before the procedure, the plant is loosened until the root collar is exposed. The base is washed and dried. It is in this place that the vaccination will be carried out.

Scion preparation:

• the bush from which the stock is taken is well watered the day before the cutting is cut;
• on the day of budding, a cutting 10 centimeters long and at least 5 millimeters thick is cut;
• the largest peephole is selected from the cut shoot, it is taken out together with a piece of wood with a knife.

Budding technique: a cut is made at the base of the stock T-shape. A sleeping eye (shield), cut earlier from a prepared cutting, is inserted into it. The edges of the incision are pressed tightly, wrapped with electrical tape, leaving the eye on the outside. The scion will grow by feeding on the roots of the rootstock. The next year, a strong healthy shoot will grow from the eye.

Note!

Plant roses in cloudy cool weather. The stock must be dry during budding, otherwise the cut site is quickly affected by the disease.

Remove the bandage in early spring. At the rootstock, all wild shoots are cut out, sanitary pruning is carried out. As soon as the grafted shoot has 4-5 leaves, it is pinched (like all other shoots), stimulating the awakening of the buds and the growth of the plant.

Reproduction offspring

The easiest way to propagate, for which only own-rooted roses are suitable, since flowers grafted onto wild rose will not produce a varietal plant. From them you can get only the same wild rosehip.

Offspring - a set of upright shoots that grow annually around the base of the plant. Most of them are formed on the south side of the bush. From them, you can grow independent roses that have the same characteristics as the mother plant.

In the first year of appearance, the shoots do not yet have their own root system, so they can only be planted from the second year. The strongest, well-developing offspring are suitable for separation, others are immediately removed so that they do not use up the strength of the mother plant.

Transplantation of young shoots is carried out when they are guaranteed to acquire their roots and be able to fully grow without parental nutrition. Separate the offspring as close as possible to mother plant. The shoot is cut out along with part of the maternal roots. The seedling is transferred to a new place of residence. Planted in fertilized, loose, moist soil. Before planting, they are cut off by a third - such a manipulation will stimulate the young bush for rapid development.

Conclusion

This is the essence of all the main methods of propagation of roses. Most of them do not require special knowledge and skills, successfully increase the number climbing bushes maybe even a beginner florist.

Rose is the queen of flowers. For vertical gardening, arches, trellises and decorative columns use climbing roses. With their help, you can create many interesting compositions on your suburban area. In this article we will tell you how to propagate climbing roses.

Climbing roses are propagated in three ways: cuttings, layering and budding.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings. Cuttings as a method of propagation of climbing roses are the most effective. Cuttings should be harvested in September large-flowered roses and after flowering in small-flowered. Shoots 17-20 cm long are cut into cuttings that contain 3-4 buds.

The lower cut of the cutting should be made at an angle just after the lower kidney. Stepping back a little from the upper kidney, make a straight cut. The lower leaves of the cutting must be removed, the rest cut in half.

Cuttings can be rooted in two ways: in water and in the ground. If the first method is chosen, then you need to put the stalk in purified water. Ordinary water can cause rotting of the emerging roots, so it is better to boil it.

Usually roots desired length appear in 20-30 days and the cutting can be planted in flower pot. Until next spring, the stalk must be left in the room, where it should be looked after like house flowers.

When rooted in the substrate, there is no problem of root rot. A vertical hole is made in the pot with a diameter twice the diameter of the cutting. Sand is poured into such a hole and a cutting is inserted. Sand, the first time should be constantly wet. After the cutting is planted, it must be covered with a glass jar. Before putting the pot with the handle on the window, the jar needs to be shaded by covering it with a cloth.

Propagation of climbing roses by layering. If layering is chosen as a method of propagation of climbing roses, then in the fall or spring you need to choose a good shoot and dig a groove under it, the width of which will be 10-15 cm. The depth of the groove should not exceed the spade bayonet. Humus is placed at the bottom and, having covered it with a thin layer of earth, the shoot is lowered.

On the shoot, before it is buried, you need to cut the bark under the kidneys. So the formation of roots should occur much faster. The buried shoot must be pinned to the ground in several places. The end of the shoot must be vertical.

Budding as a method of propagation of climbing roses. Budding is less popular with flower growers. The thing is that only some varieties of climbing roses can be propagated in this way.

Budding is done in August - September. For this method, a sleeping eye is taken and, having cut the bark in the area of ​​​​the root neck of the wild rose, insert it. After the budding area is wrapped with film tapes. The engraftment of the eye is possible only with good contact, which is achieved by tight binding of the place of budding.

Before planting cuttings in open ground, you need to dig a groove and pour sand on its bottom. The cuttings are added dropwise in the groove at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. The bottom sheet of the cutting should be at ground level.

Caring for rooted cuttings of a climbing rose consists of watering, weeding and loosening the soil. For the winter, the cuttings are covered with peat or loose earth. Spruce branches or special materials can cause the death of the cuttings due to the lack of air supply to the plants.