Do-it-yourself manual gas burner. How to make a simple burner from cans Propane gas burner how to make it yourself

For carrying out repairs and other roofing works, which involve melting mastics and laying roofing materials, you will need a special gas burner. The device is primarily used to perform the following tasks:

— heating and drying of roofing materials;

— cutting and soldering of metal;

- layer firing old paint.

Approximate structure of a gas burner

Gas-burner has enough simple design. It is a glass made of metal and equipped with a nozzle and a handle, which is attached to the body . Heat-resistant plastic or wood can be used to make the handle. Gas enters the housing passing through the gas pipeline. In most cases, propane under pressure is used to operate the burner.

The burner glass should have a shape that protects the flame from being blown out by the wind.

There is a valve on the burner body that allows you to adjust the flame length and intensity of the supplied gas. It’s good if the burner has a reducer, which allows you to use gas economically.

Roof burner components

During the assembly process of the device, mechanical processing is practically not used. The burner is assembled from ready-made spare parts. To make it we will need:

1. A steel valve that can be taken from a cylinder intended for storing liquefied gas.
2. A plug used for transporting gas cylinders.
3. Jet from blowtorch with a nozzle diameter of 0.8 mm.
4. A piece of pipe one meter long with an internal diameter of 10 mm. and steel thickness 2 mm.
5. Wooden handle.

You can use the handle from a burnt-out soldering iron as a handle.

Step-by-step burner manufacturing process

The process of manufacturing a gas burner begins with the fact that we insert the supply tube, for which we will use a steel pipe, into the handle and secure it with glue. The divider and body must be machined from a brass rod, the diameter of which should be 20 mm. In the finished body, two radial holes are drilled (each diameter is 5 mm) and four holes are drilled in the divider rod (each diameter is 1 mm).

When assembling, it is necessary to press the divider into the body with a slight tension. At the same time, the flange must be installed inside the housing with a gap, that is, the internal diameter of the manufactured housing must be 0.6 mm larger. diameter machined The resulting gap is responsible for braking the gas flow, which is supplied to the drilled holes in the igniter.

To do thin hole in our nozzle, you need to take a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. and use it to make a blind hole, which is 1.5 mm. doesn't reach the exit. Drill with a diameter of 0.4 mm. used for jumper. The resulting hole must be completely caulked with gentle hammer blows. Then you need to sharpen the end. To do this, take sanding paper and sharpen it until the desired cross-section of the outlet hole is found, that is, until the nozzle can be placed on the tip of the threaded burner tube.

A supply hose made of fabric-rubber material must be attached to the end of the gas supply tube. Secure the hose to the tube with a clamp. We set the working pressure, after which we supply gas. Wait until all the air is forced out of the hose, and only then insert the nozzle into the flame of the gas burner.

Modification of heating equipment, or simply put, its improvement, is necessary to improve operating efficiency. Servicing solid fuel boilers and constantly monitoring the level of firewood or coal in the firebox sometimes pushes owners to solve non-standard problems. If it becomes possible to connect the house to the gas main, but there is no desire to buy a new special boiler, they start to come up with ideas homemade devices heating water heating equipment.

It is necessary to immediately make a reservation that any handicraft products intended for heating systems must undergo a number of checks, namely:

• Obtaining a quality certificate.
• Permits from the State Technical Supervision Authority.
• Checking the design for compliance with quality and operational parameters.

Collecting this documentation will require a lot of time and effort. Therefore, it is much more profitable to purchase a factory gas burner for the boiler. But if the desire to assemble and test a product of your own production is great, you can make a gas burner with your own hands.

The principle of operation of a gas burner

There are several types of burners, which may differ in design and operating principle. The following types are most often installed for heating boilers:

• Atmospheric - with an open combustion chamber.
• With forced air supply - with a closed chamber.

For self-made The 1st type of burner is suitable, since it is much simpler in design and can be made from scrap materials.

The operation of a gas burner is based on mixing a dense flow of natural gas and atmospheric air. The operating principle is clearly shown in the figure:

For production you will need:

1. Valve from oxygen cylinder– it will act as the basis of the nozzle. You can take the common VK-74.
2. To form a narrowly directed gas stream, it is necessary to make a cap that will be screwed onto the valve. A hole is made in it and a jet is inserted (you can use a blowtorch).
3. The injector is made from steel pipe, up to 2 mm thick. Its length is approximately 100 mm. The fastening is done by welding using steel wire. In this case, a certain distance must be maintained between the cap and the nozzle to allow air to enter the combustion zone.
4. To activate the flame, you can install a piezoelectric element, or ignite it with a match or burning paper.

The atmospheric gas burner is ready. Next, a base is made on which it will be attached for installation in the combustion chamber of the boiler. It should be borne in mind that the hole should not be completely closed - air will flow through it to maintain the combustion process.

But can it be used with the same comfort and safety as the factory one? To find out, let's look at all the design flaws:

• Lack of required sensors. The most important of these is flame control. If for some reason the fire goes out and the gas continues to flow into the nozzle, spontaneous combustion may occur. A draft control sensor in the boiler is also needed, which controls the air flow.
• Temperature sensor. It indicates the boundary temperature conditions, non-compliance with which can lead to rapid failure of not only the burner, but also the boiler.
• To set up the operation of the burner under gas pressure from the central line, you need appropriate experience and special equipment.
• Lack of a mechanism for regulating the gas pressure entering the burner. When the pressure drops in gas pipeline the flame power changes, which again leads to possible breakdowns and defects.

But not only the burner design can suffer from the above factors - this also applies to the boiler itself. Each model of heating equipment is designed for specific operating conditions. If the manufacturer indicates that this can be adapted to operate a gas burner with forced air supply with power parameters up to 30 kW and with the installation of an additional fan to create draft, then other conditions may lead to its failure.

If you want to make a homemade burner for a specific boiler, you need to weigh the pros and cons. Is it worth risking expensive equipment, your safety and your loved ones?

A homemade gas burner is a device that has whole line advantages compared to its other analogues running on gasoline and other types of fuel. The main advantages of gas burners are as follows: they are easy to use, do not emit harmful and unpleasant odors during use and do not smoke, like, for example, gasoline ones. In addition, it is very compact, which means it can be used in almost any sector of the economy. What are its features and how to make it yourself?

Gas burner device

The design of this tool assumes the presence of the following main parts:

1. Gearbox.
2. Injectors.
3. Fuel supply regulator (in this case gas).
4. Heads.
5. The node where it is fixed

What does it work on?

As for fuel, a gas burner often runs on propane (or a propane-butane mixture). It fills a separate container (cylinder), which, as we noted above, is attached to a special unit.

Is it difficult to make it yourself?

It is worth noting that in its design this device doesn't have any complex elements and details. Therefore, it is done with your own hands very quickly (as practice shows, the work takes no more than 30-40 minutes), and even a novice master can understand its design. In the case of gasoline devices, things will not be so positive.

Scope of application and design elements

It is used mainly for heating and drying materials, for cutting metal products, including pipes, and burning old paint. The design of the burner includes a metal body (it also includes a special glass that prevents the wind from blowing out the flame), a nozzle (for igniting fuel), a handle that is attached to the body (by the way, its length should be no more than 100 centimeters), a holder ( mounted on the handle and made of wood or heat-resistant plastic), and gas hose. In addition, there is a gearbox and a supply pipe with a valve. The latter regulates the gas supply level and, accordingly, the flame length too.

How to make a mini gas burner with your own hands?

You can start with the simplest thing - with the handle. It can be made from wood, but it is best to take a ready-made one from a burnt-out soldering iron. The supply tube should be made of steel. Pay special attention to the sizes. The optimal diameter of the tube should be approximately 1 centimeter. Moreover, the thickness is no more than 2-2.5 millimeters. This tube must be inserted into the handle and secured. This can be done using regular glue.

Frame

We also make it from steel, namely from a brass rod 2 centimeters wide. A divider can also be made from it. Next you need to make several holes. This is necessary in order to ensure a normal supply of oxygen. Otherwise, at the slightest draft, the burner flame will go out or the gas from the nozzle simply will not ignite. How many holes should I make? There are 4 of them in total, each of which has a diameter of 1 millimeter. These holes must be made in the divider rod. In addition, drill 2 radical holes of 5 millimeters each directly in the body. All this will contribute to the normal combustion of fuel in the device, which will have a positive effect on the speed and quality of work performed.

How to make a homemade gas burner next? Next, you will need to press the divider into the body. In this case, the internal flange should be installed with a small gap (at least 0.6 millimeters). This gap will serve to slow down the flow of gas supplied to the igniter hole.

How to make a nozzle?

It will be machined from a metal rod. To make a hole in the nozzle, you will need to use a 2mm drill bit and make a blind hole with it. In this case, the distance to the exit should be at least one and a half millimeters. For the jumper we try on a drill with a diameter of 4 mm. The hole made is caulked with a hammer, then the end of the device is sharpened sandpaper. It needs to be processed until the moment when the nozzle can be screwed onto the threaded tip of the tube.

Now a hose (it comes from the cylinder) made of a special rubber-fabric material is put on the end of the tube. It is secured with a regular clamp using a Phillips or minus screwdriver. When the operating pressure is set, supply gas and place the nozzle into the flame of the gas burner. This should be done only after the substance has completely displaced the air from the hose. The upper part of the part should be sanded. It needs to be processed until the length of the burner torch is about 50 millimeters.

How to bring all these elements together?

The body together with the divider should be screwed onto the external thread of the nozzle. At the same time, a gas burner, made with your own hands, taking into account all the recommendations, should supply an even flame. It is important to ensure that the fuel does not emit soot during combustion.

What to do if the burner smokes and produces an uneven flame? In this case, you need to gradually turn the body on the nozzle thread. This must be done until the gas produces such characteristic smoke. If it is very loose, compact it All on at this stage a do-it-yourself gas burner has been successfully constructed. Now you can safely use it on the farm.

A few words about how to use the tool

To ensure that a self-made gas burner is safe to use, before the first start-up, be sure to check its parts for leaks, namely solder joints, joints of connectors and sleeves. After this, open the valve half a turn and wait until the device produces a flame. Here the ignition process occurs automatically, so no further action should be taken. Now adjust the level and length of the supplied flame (this is done using a reducer or the same valve) and get to work.

So, we found out how to make a gas burner with our own hands, learned its design and the rules for using this device.

In this article I will tell you how I managed to assemble a gas burner with my own hands from water fittings, which are available in any hardware department. Finding the regulator was not so easy. Can be used gas reducer 5-10 psi (0.34-0.68 atmospheres), but in this case you will not be able to regulate the burner flame.

The main purpose I had in building this propane gas torch was to melt metal in a forge, but it can be used for other purposes. For example, it can be used to burn weeds. The burner can be changed to suit your needs, but the basic principles of operation will remain unchanged.

Warning: Propane is an explosive gas and you work with it at your own risk. I do not bear any responsibility for damage caused to your health or property. When propane burns, carbon monoxide is released ( carbon monoxide), equipment, including this propane burner, should only be used in well-ventilated areas.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

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Materials for assembling a powerful gas burner:

• threaded barrel 13 mm (1/2”) (minimum 25 cm).
• brass coupling 13 mm (1/2”)
• brass pipe plug with internal thread 3.2 mm (1/8”)
• threaded brass barrel 3.2 mm (1/8”) x 5.1 cm (2”)
• brass nipple 13mm (1/2") x 13mm (1/2")
• brass fitting 6.4 mm (1/4”) x 3.2 mm (1/8”)
• brass coupling 6.4 mm (1/4”)

Gas fittings:

• quick coupling for gas equipment low pressure 6.4 mm (1/4”) plug for propane welding
• Coupler with ball valve 6.4mm (1/4”) socket
• adjustable propane supply regulator 1-5 psi (0.068-0.34 atmospheres)
• thread sealant
• a metal sheet
• self-tapping screws
• drill 6.4mm (1/4”)
• 0.8mm (1/32”) drill bit (or smaller depending on how big of a burner flame you want)

Tools:

• drill
• center punch
• adjustable wrench
• solder and flux
• soldering torch/lamp

Step 2: Assembly Video

The video shows in detail the burner assembly process and is a supplement to the article.

Step 3: It's better not to do this

At first I took a threaded barrel that was too short for assembly, because of this the burner got very hot. It is better to use a piece of black steel pipe 20-25 cm long, it will not heat up so much. I couldn't find a piece of steel pipe required length and instead took a galvanized pipe and, using a coupling, increased it to the length I needed.

Galvanized pipe may release toxic zinc fumes when heated; this can be avoided by leaving the pipe in vinegar overnight to allow the coating to come off.

Step 4: Assembling the burner

The video shows more clearly the stages of assembling a homemade gas burner. All connections must be made using thread sealant or sealing thread.

1. Drill a hole in the brass plug to allow gas to pass through, for this I used a 0.8 mm drill.
2. On the steel pipe, drill four holes along the end of the thread, for this I used a 3.2 mm drill.
3. We solder a brass threaded barrel 3.2 mm x 5.1 cm into a brass nipple 13 mm x 13 mm, the centers of the circles of the parts must coincide. The nipple, in turn, is screwed into coupling 13 mm (1/2”). Attach the coupling to the end of the steel tip. Let's call this assembled part a "centered nipple assembly."
4. Screw a 3.2mm brass plug with a drilled hole onto the 3.2mm x 5.1cm brass threaded barrel that is part of the "centered nipple assembly". You need to tighten the plug until it rests on the thread of the 13 mm x 13 mm brass nipple, now we will call this part the “nozzle assembly”.
5. We screw the “nozzle assembly” into a 13 mm brass coupling.
6. We screw a steel pipe with 3.2 mm holes drilled into a 13 mm brass coupling on the other side.
7. We tighten the 6.4 mm (1/4”) brass coupling on the other side of the jet assembly.
8. Screw a 6.4mm (1/4”) x 3.2mm (1/8”) brass fitting into a 6.4mm (1/4”) brass socket.
9. Screw the 6.4 mm (1/4”) quick connector for low pressure gas equipment into the brass fitting.

Step 5: Burner Nozzle

Form a burner nozzle from metal sheet. I simply cut a piece of sheet metal and, through trial and error, used pliers to twist the metal into a cone. Holes are drilled at the base of the cone, and through them, using self-tapping screws, the nozzle is fixed to the end of the steel pipe. To make the nozzle, I would recommend using stainless steel.
The burner is assembled!

1. Attach the propane regulator to the propane tank and connect the coupling unit to the burner.
2. Use soapy water to find leaks. If there are leaks, seal them.
3. For your own safety, use safety glasses when working with the burner.
4. Open the propane supply and light it with a gas lighter.
5. I usually work at 0.41-0.54 atmospheres, adjusting if necessary.

The flame height reaches approximately 10-25 cm. If you want to reduce or increase the flame height, use a smaller diameter drill when drilling the jet and make the air intake holes larger or smaller. Use a nozzle to create a flame.

In the attached video there is an option for additional flame adjustment.

Furnaces and boilers running on waste oil have long taken their rightful place among heating appliances. Exhaust is a cheap and sometimes free type of fuel; it is often used for this purpose in car repair shops and garages. Many craftsmen, when choosing a design, ask the question: is it possible to convert a gasoline blowtorch into a burner for mining?

The principle of operation of a conventional blowtorch is to ignite gasoline vapors, which are pushed out under the action of compressed air. This effect is achieved by forcing air into the burner fuel tank.

What happens if you pour used oil into a blowtorch?

The oil itself, even under pressure, does not evaporate well - it needs to be heated. Due to poor atomization, the flame will be uneven and it will be difficult to ignite the burner. Oil burns with formation large quantity carbon deposits and soot, so the jet will quickly coke, its cross-section will decrease, and the lamp will fail. Increasing the cross-section of the nozzle will also not give the expected effect - the oil will be sprayed in large drops, which will not allow obtaining a uniform flame of the torch.

In addition, used oil often contains impurities: diesel fuel, gasoline, antifreeze and even water, which can lead to flashes inside the lamp. To use waste as fuel for a blowtorch, you will have to install a filtration system, which will further complicate the task.

Considering all the difficulties, using a gasoline blowtorch as a burner during mining is difficult and unsafe. Therefore, it is necessary to modify or completely change its design.

How to make a burner for mining yourself

For successful combustion of oil, you must either preheat it to the evaporation temperature - approximately 300 degrees Celsius, or finely spray and enrich the oil vapor with air. You can heat the oil to such temperatures using powerful heating elements, but this will increase energy costs.
An oil aerosol can be created by applying a stream of compressed air through a layer of oil. This effect is realized in the Babington burner - a device, an analogue of which you can assemble with your own hands from available components.

Babington burner - an alternative to a blowtorch

The Babington burner was originally patented to run on diesel fuel. Later, having made minor changes to the design, the craftsmen changed the design with their own hands and adapted the burner for burning waste machine and food oils. The degree of oil contamination does not matter much, since the fuel channels of the unit are free of bottlenecks prone to blockages.

Unlike a blowtorch, where the fuel-air mixture is sprayed under pressure through nozzles, in a Babington burner oil is pumped from a reservoir using a low-power pump and flows in a thin film along an inclined or spherical surface, and the oil-air mixture is formed by blowing a thin jet of compressed air air through this film.

The spraying effect is clearly presented in the video:

The Babington burner consists of several functional blocks:
• Fuel - tank, pump and pipes for supplying fuel.
• Air, it consists of a compressor and an air tube.
• A hemisphere with a small diameter hole where the air stream mixes with oil.
• A nozzle that directs the flame in the desired direction.

The standard design can be modified with your own hands, increasing its efficiency. To do this, the fuel tank is equipped with a heater that heats the oil before the burner starts operating, which makes it possible to increase its fluidity. In addition, a fuel channel made of a metal tube can be wound around the nozzle - this way the oil will heat up while the burner is operating.

The burner nozzle is directed into the boiler, where the fuel chamber and water jacket are heated. You can also use the device to melt and heat metals.

Advantages of a DIY Babington burner:

• a wide selection of fuel - used machine oils, lubricants of any viscosity, diesel fuel, fuel oil, any vegetable oils, including food production waste;
• the presence of impurities in the fuel;
• simplicity of design - you can do it yourself.

Flaws:

• difficulty setting up the burner, especially often when changing the type of fuel;
• smell and dirt - the burner cannot be installed in residential premises, a boiler room is required;
• The use of the burner involves an open flame, so fire safety precautions must be observed.