How to drill a hole for a furniture hinge. Work with a manual milling cutter: inserting furniture hinges step by step photo instructions. Drilling holes for hinges

Many furniture is equipped with doors. Correct location hinges implies convenient use and long service life of the door. Sometimes it happens that the door does not open well or mows a little. Such moments cause unpleasant emotions when using the closet. Therefore, it is worth taking a closer and more serious attitude to the fact that when furniture hinges are mounted, the installation of the markup should be carried out taking into account all the rules.

Do-it-yourself installation of loops begins with the analysis of the part itself. In the manufacture of furniture, various hinges on the cabinet are used. The most popular loops are overhead. They are used when fastening facades to the body. There are also semi-overhead, internal, corner, using a closer and spring. The question of how to install overhead furniture hinges will be considered in more detail. In particular, the well-known four-hinged model. These loops vary in size. The most common with a diameter of 35 mm. The canopy consists of the following parts:

• cup;
• mounting plate;
• shoulder.

The cup is fixed on the facade, and the mounting plate is fixed on the cabinet body. The shoulder is involved in the bridge connection of these two elements. To properly install furniture hinges with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• ruler;
• construction level;
• cutter;
• pencil;
• screwdriver;
• screws.

The cutter diameter is 35 mm. When all the tools and materials are ready, the next stage begins.

Tools

markup

Installation furniture hinges do-it-yourself means accurate markup. Having made a bad markup, you can get flaws when opening the door. The marking process for furniture hinges involves finding the center of the hole for them. It should retreat 7-12 cm from the edge of the facade. The number of hinges installed on the door may vary. But you need to observe a certain distance between the canopies, equal to 50 cm. There is a certain dependence of the number of canopies on the parameters of the door.

When the number of canopies is determined, the center holes are marked relative to the width of the door. Moreover, the indent from the side of the door should be 2.1-2.2 cm. And it should also be borne in mind that the mount should not lie on the location of the shelves.

Thus, having measured the required distance from the top and bottom of the door, a mark is made. Further, observing the indentation relative to the width, the point of the future location is also marked. At the intersection of the measured marks, a notch should be made with a self-tapping screw or a nail. With a facade height of more than 100 cm, marks must be made every 50 cm.

Hole preparation

To understand how to properly install and hang hinges, it is important to follow all the required steps. The next installation step is how to embed furniture hinges? Using a drill or screwdriver, you need to drill holes. In this case, you need to use a cutter. The facade is laid on a solid surface. Drilling is carried out in the place of the markup.

Installation of a furniture hinge is carried out subject to the following conditions:

• the hole depth is 12-13 mm. The tie-in should not be deeper to avoid cracks with front side doors;
• the use of a sharpened cutter helps to eliminate chips or damage to the surface of the facade;
• the drill or screwdriver follows vertically, corresponding to the drilling axis, to avoid damaging the surface;
• do not drill in a hurry, otherwise the hole will be sloppy as a result.

After drilling for one hole, the next slots are drilled. When all the holes are made, the stage of laying the loop cups in them follows.

Hinge attachment

Hinges are placed in the holes and, using a ruler or level, adjust their position relative to the height of the facade. Each canopy should tightly touch the surface of the facade. If you do not adjust the location of the canopies, the door may take an oblique position. When the hinges are aligned, you should make marks for the screws. This can be done with a pencil or the screw itself. Next, use a screwdriver to screw the furniture hinges to the door.

Facade hanging

When the marking and installation of the furniture hinge is completed, the most difficult stage begins - fastening the door to be installed to the cabinet body. Door hanging progress:

• mark the places of installation of mounting sites for hinges;
• attaching a platform for fixing hinges that are installed on the facade;
• hang the door to the side of the cabinet;
• connection of two parts of the loop;
• adjusting the cabinet door relative to the cabinet with a screwdriver.

Hanging the door is best done on flat surface. In this case, the side of the locker, on which the canopy bar is attached, must be in a horizontal position. This creates a certain convenience when trying on and screwing the facade to the sidewall. After screwing to the body, you can put the cabinet in a vertical position and adjust it relative to the body.

Adjustment

The final step in the installation of furniture canopies is regulation. After the door is attached to the body, it is necessary to make adjustments in three planes. Of course, you will have to unscrew and tighten the screw several times, but a favorable outcome is guaranteed. Three planes are vertical, horizontal and relative to the fixation depth:

• depth adjustment helps to press the front closer to the body or loosen it. Using a screwdriver, an oval hole is twisted. This type of adjustment is widely used in rooms where the floors have some kind of unevenness;
• vertical adjustment helps to move the facade in a vertical position. Adjustment is carried out by twisting the oval holes. After some time, the door may sag. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out adjustment of canopies sometimes;
• Horizontal adjustment involves moving the door from left to right or vice versa. Its purpose is to avoid gaps between the door and the cabinet body. We apply this method even in rooms with uneven walls and floor.

The adjustment step can be carried out when the cabinet is not yet hung. But, in order to immediately orient with respect to the walls and ceiling, it is best to hang the cabinet on the wall.

It turns out that to fasten the loops, you do not need to have special knowledge or skills. Install furniture hinge quite easy. The main thing is that when installing the furniture hinge, the marking and installation were carried out taking into account all the rules. This avoids the appearance of cracks on the facade, gaps between the body and the door, friction when opening. Moreover, the work done by one's own hands brings a lot of positive emotions.

Today I will cover in detail such a frequently encountered issue as the addition of cup furniture hinges (“frog hinges,” as they are sometimes called). Let's analyze this process using the example of installing a facade on a kitchen box under the sink. Inexpensive hinges are used in this box quick installation with integrated closers.

First, we sit down the mounting strips. To do this, the loop is disassembled. We carry out the markup, set aside the following dimensions from the bottom of the box: 100 mm (center of the lower loop) and 600 mm (center of the upper loop). We put pencil marks at these levels.

From them we set aside a perpendicular of 37 mm from which 16 mm in each direction (16 + 16 = 32). It is advisable to drill these points with a thin 1 mm drill. I apologize for the quality of the photo. I first screwed on the bar, and only then remembered the need to photograph, which is why the holes have such an unsightly appearance.

With a pair of self-tapping screws we fasten the mounting plate to the rack of the box. It is advisable not to tighten the screws, as adjustment will be required later.

Now let's move on to a more important moment - the addition of facades.

On the reverse side of the facade (be sure to decide before marking where bottom-top, and right-left, so that it would not be offensive later), we also set aside the aforementioned 100 and 600 mm from the bottom corner.

From the facade I do not shoot protective film so as not to damage it later during transportation - do not pay attention to it.

We mark the hole for the cup 21.5-22 mm from the edge. And the holes for the hinge fasteners are 24 mm on both sides of the perpendicular and 27 mm from the edge (I forgot to note this size in the photo). We prick these points with an awl.

I will dwell on the tool for drilling such holes in a little more detail. It is called a Forstner drill (or cutter). We need a diameter of 35 mm. Pay attention to the central spike, which ensures the centering of the drill relative to the axis. It can be long (globus matte drill) and short (yellow Encore).

• In the first case, it holds better on the workpiece, that is, the risk of cutter displacement during initial drilling is lower, but the risk of pushing through the front side with this spike is higher.
• In the second, the slope during initial drilling (this is true for people who will drill with a simple drill) can lead to the drill breaking and scratches on inner surface facade, but the risk of pushing through is less.

Personally, I would advise you to look for the second option and ALWAYS practice on unnecessary parts.

Now the drilling process itself. Option one - drilling with drilling machine(it must be said that perfect option). We expose the guide, set the center of the workpiece under the center of the drill, try on.

Then we drill to a depth that is limited by the stop-limiter. The risk of damage to the facade in this case tends to zero. And the output is such neat holes of the same depth. And with the minimum amount dust (pay attention to the vacuum cleaner nozzle behind the drill).

Now consider a more common (household) drilling option - using a simple drill. It requires great accuracy, but, in general, there is nothing complicated either. During the initial drilling, the drill should be held strictly vertically, controlling this process along the circle, which is cut out by the cutting knives of the cutter.

As soon as the cutter has deepened into the material by 2-3 mm, it will no longer go to the side, and you can relax a little, but it is advisable to keep the angle all the same. As a rule, you should stop when the cutter goes into the material at the level of its upper platform, but still practice on scraps first. You can drill in several steps, checking the depth with a loop cup, until you reach the desired one.

As a result, you should get such a hole for the hinge cup and another couple of 1 mm for mounting screws.

We insert the loops into the holes. To align them with respect to the edge of the facade, we use a long straight object (I have a piece of chipboard, you can use the second same facade or ruler), which supports the hinges in front.

This trick allows you to accurately position the hinge strictly perpendicular to the edge of the facade (this is clearly seen from the position of the mounting holes that we marked earlier).

Fasten the hinges with a couple more screws.

Now the stage of hanging the hinges on the mounting strips.

Here I was tormented by trying to hold the facade with one hand and still photograph the process)).

We apply the facade to the installation site (you can put something under it from below or hold it with your foot, as I did) and put the loop on the bar in front, snap the lock. If you have simple cheap hinges, then they also wind up in front, but the hinge body winds up under the screw that is on the bar. By tightening the latter, fixation is made.

The same manipulations are repeated with the rest of the loops. In principle, the facade is already fixed.

It remains to put it on the sides of the box, that is, to carry out the adjustment. Cup hinges are adjustable in all three planes.

By loosening the screws that secure the mounting plate to the box post, we are able to move the facade up / down by 1-2 mm. Then tighten the screws back.

By twisting and unscrewing the adjusting screw located in front of the hinge, we move the facade left and right. In this way, you can tilt the facade in one direction or another (changing the position of only one hinge or twisting them in different directions).

And finally, by loosening and tightening the rear screw, we move the facade back and forth.

As a result, we should get something similar. Photo of the finale with the facade open.

And closed. It can be seen that the edge of the door is parallel to the edge of the box (that is, the adjustment is correct).

And finally, we will analyze how many loops should be hung on the facade. After all, it is clear that for large doors a pair of hinges will simply not be enough. The quantity depends on the size and weight of the facades. For clarity, here is a diagram.

Please note that the weight can vary greatly depending on the materials used.

Master class shows simple technology tapping with a manual router of cup-type furniture hinges. Using an inexpensive slot cutter and a homemade template, you can quickly make professional-quality blind holes in your home workshop.

Recesses for cup hinges are often made with a Forstner drill, but the holes rarely come out neat and accurate. Yes, and the centering spike of the drill easily pops out from reverse side furniture board. The use of a manual milling machine allows you to make holes no worse than factory ones.

Tools used:

1. Drill.
2. Drill "ballerina".
3. Thin drill.
4. Frazier.
5. Copy sleeve.
6. Straight groove cutter 8-14 mm.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Hacksaw.
9. Clamp.
10. Calipers.
11. Square.
12. Screwdriver.
13. Awl.

How to make a template

1. Determine the thickness of the plywood for the template: it should be slightly larger than the protruding part of the copy sleeve. Too thick material should not be taken - the cutter overhang may not be enough.

2. Measure the outer diameter of the copy sleeve.

3. Calculate the size of the hole to be cut (D) using the formula:

D = D1 + D2 - D3, where:

• D1 - the required diameter of the recess for the loop (26, 35 or 40 mm);
• D2 is the diameter of the copy sleeve;
• D3 - cutter gauge.

For example, for a furniture hinge with a 35 mm cup, with a 14 mm cutter and a 30 mm sleeve, you will need a template hole with a diameter of 51 mm.

4. Cut out a blank from plywood and mark the center of the hole to be drilled according to the drawing.

5. Having placed an unnecessary board, fix the plywood with a clamp and mark the drilling point with an awl.

6. Putting on the "ballerina" right size, drill a hole.

Advice. The accuracy of the operation affects the quality of the manufactured template. It is better to try out the sliding drill on an unnecessary board and adjust the size.

7. sandpaper clean the edges of the hole.

8. Cut a strip of plywood 3 cm wide and 14 cm long.

9. Draw a line parallel to the axis of the hole at a distance of 22 mm, marking the location of the edge of the furniture door.

10. According to the markup, fix the stop bar with glue and cloves.

11. Transfer the center line to the other side of the workpiece to make it easier to determine the location of the buttonhole.

12. The template is ready.

Loop insertion order

1. furniture door mark according to the recommended distances between the loops.

2. Having rested the limiter on the end, place the template on the door and secure with a clamp.

3. Place the router in working area, lower the tool body until the cutter touches the surface of the workpiece and clamp the locking lever.

4. Lower the depth gauge to the position support.

5. Read on the 11.5 mm scale and set the position of the limiter.

6. Tighten the milling depth adjuster lock.

7. Adjust the setting with a micrometer screw.

8. Release the locking lever.

9. Rotate the position support to set the depth of the first pass.

10. Start the router, press the body and lock the position. Smoothly guiding the tool along the surface to be machined, cut the material, starting from the circle and moving to the center.

11. After completing the passage, snap off the latch. Rotate the support to the next position and repeat the process until the recess is complete.

Advice. In the absence of a sawdust removal system, it is recommended to clean the working area with a vacuum cleaner after each pass in order to avoid milling defects.

12. Neat seat ready.

13. Insert the loop into the recess, align and mark the location of the screws.

14. Drill for screws, limiting the drilling depth.

15. Fasten the hinges with countersunk screws.

After inserting the hinges, proceed to the door suspension, for which mark the location of the counterparts. In our example, the marking for the screws is 37 mm from the end of the chipboard. For other modifications of fittings, determine the size in place: after assembling the hinge and setting the front adjustment screw in the middle, lean the door against the sidewall with a gap of 2 mm and put marks through the oblong holes. Complete the work with adjustment operations.

Adjustment screws: 1 - in height; 2 - in depth; 3 - in width.

For fastening and further operation of doors in furniture production use Various types loops. If you bought a wardrobe and decided to assemble it yourself, then you cannot avoid the process of installing doors on furniture hinges.

Figure 1. Furniture hinge device

On the modern furniture market, there are different kinds door hinges, which include both four-hinged hinges and simply hinged ones, which were very popular back in Soviet times. Today, four-hinged hinges are very popular, which are simple and robust design as well as easy installation. They possess high level durability, which provides an unlimited number of working cycles of opening and closing. Another significant advantage of this mechanism is the ability to adjust it in 3 planes, which will allow you to align the cabinet doors without any problems.

The four-hinged loop consists of the following elements (Fig. 1):

• cup;
• shoulder;
• mounting (reciprocal) level.

The hinge is fixed to the furniture box with a mounting plate, and with a cup - to the door. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. The shoulder plays the role of a lever and connects the cup to the striker plate using a four-hinged device. An adjusting screw is located in the cover of the bar, with which you can adjust the position of the door relative to the base.

According to the method of applying the sash to the body, the hinges are divided into:

1. Overhead. They are used when the door closes the sides of the niche in which it is placed. This method of fastening doors is the most popular, so it can be found on almost any furniture set.
2. Semi overhead. They are used when 2 doors enter the same sidewall of a furniture product. Hinges of this type differ from the rest by a slight bend in the base, which provides a small distance between the two facades.
3. Internal. Apply in case internal fastening facade, that is, the door does not cover the sides of the niche in which it is located, but is located inside it. The base of such hinges has a pronounced bend.
4. Corner. With the help of such mechanisms, it is possible to fix the doors at a certain angle.

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Preparatory work

To install a furniture hinge on a cabinet with your own hands, you need to prepare tools such as:

Figure 2. Marking the loop

• screwdriver;
• end mill with a diameter of 35 mm;
• ruler;
• building level;
• awl;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws - 3.5x16 or 4x16 mm, 2 pcs. for 1 loop.

After preparing the tool, marking is made, which consists in marking the center of each hole for the hinges. Depending on the height of the door, as well as on the placement of the shelves in height, about 7-12 cm recede from the edge of the facade. If the door has large dimensions, then it is necessary to use not 2 hinges, but 3 or more. In this case, the step between the canopies should be at least 50 cm. The dependence of the number of loops on the height and weight of the facade is presented in the table.

After marking in height, the centers of the holes are marked from the edges in width. For standard door hinge the indentation from the edge should be approximately 21-22 mm (Fig. 2). When marking, it is necessary to ensure that after mounting the hinges they do not come into contact with the shelves of the cabinet, because this will interfere with the normal functioning of the door.