Sergei Obraztsov
I was going to align the walls in the apartment myself. Can you please tell me how best to align the curved walls? There are pot-bellied surfaces, and there are concave inwards. The house is rather crookedly made by the builders, it needs to be corrected. I will do it myself, there is no money for workers. Therefore, I would like to understand the essence of the alignment of the walls.
How to straighten curved walls?
During any repair, sometimes it is necessary to tidy up the work surfaces. After all, neither wallpaper, nor paint, nor, especially, ceramic tiles can be laid perfectly evenly and neatly, if, for example, the walls are not too even. But they are also always clearly visible, and any flaws in the finish will immediately become evident. So how do you straighten out crooked walls?
General points
Even the most inexperienced master can put the walls in order. If there are only small irregularities or thin cracks, then such flaws can be covered with expensive corrugated wallpaper. But in the case of wavy walls, you will have to work hard. There are only two types of such repairs, which have their own subtleties and features:
- Dry leveling, in which drywall is used in the form of a wide variety of designs.
- Raw alignment in which building mixtures are used.
When is the type used?
If the "waves" are relatively small, within sixty millimeters? Here it is better to use raw leveling and plaster. But if the bends are larger, it is better and cheaper to use frames, then sheathed with drywall. However, in both cases, the main thing is to make the corners even, because it is in them that all the shortcomings and imperfections are visible.
Stage of preparatory work
When figuring out how to align curved walls, you need to take into account that before proceeding with the main part of the work, you will have to perform several preliminary manipulations. First, the walls are examined to determine the size of the "heights". To do this, you can take either a simple cord stretched along the wall (this applies to the horizontal measurement), or a special level used in construction, more than one and a half meters long (for vertical measurements).
How to tidy up the walls with plaster: the preparatory stage
Before starting work, it is worth turning off the electricity in the building being renovated, in order to avoid accidents. Now you need to remove all the remnants of old plaster, peeling paint or wallpaper from the walls, and then treat the cleaned walls with a primer. Such manipulations will ensure better fixing of building mixtures on the walls, and the primer will also not allow the materials to delaminate, making them more resistant to moisture. If it is planned to use cement mixtures, then a special solution is applied to the walls under them, which is mixed from the cement itself, of course, water and, of course, ordinary sand. The last stage is the installation of special beacon rails (for this, profiles are installed, the verticality of which is checked by a plumb line).
self alignment
How to level curved walls with plaster? It is necessary to dilute the cement mortar (about ten liters), and then apply it to the repaired surfaces with a spatula (this is the most the best option). It is best to do this with large masks in the distances between the beacons. After that, an even stick or a rule is taken, and with their help the superimposed mixture is leveled with movements from the bottom up (an option is along the beacon lines). Until the entire surface is leveled, you need to add the mixture in accordance with the order already described. The final touch is the alignment of the corners with a spatula.
What points you need to know
When choosing the most suitable dry mix, you need to look not only at the thickness of the layer that will be applied to the wall, but also what material serves as a binder - gypsum or cement. The fact is that mixtures with the addition of the first are used for leveling in living rooms, since gypsum preserves the microclimate. cement mixtures it is better to take for rooms with constant humidity (for baths, toilets, bathrooms). Leveling with plaster does not “eat up” the living space of the rooms, but it also has a drawback: the process is quite laborious, and there is so much garbage after it that a couple of general cleanings are required.
Leveling with drywall: preparation
If the wave drops on the walls exceed five to six centimeters, it is preferable to take drywall. During the work, the main attention is paid to the quality and strength of the base (no crumbs and crumbling pieces should be allowed). In addition, before installing the frames, it is worth protecting the supports from high humidity, freezing and moisture formation. Now you need to clean the surfaces to be repaired from everything that can affect the glue: oil, pieces of wax, any remnants of the solutions used earlier. This is the only way the drywall will hold securely. The cleaned surfaces are covered with a primer. If the walls are loose, porous enough, better fit composition with deep penetration. It must be applied with a sprayer or brush. In the case when the walls are built from materials that do not absorb moisture, for example, from concrete, a special primer is suitable, the label of which is marked "concrete active".
Plasterboard leveling
So, how to align curved walls with drywall? After preparing the surfaces, all hidden wiring is mounted, and the socket boxes should not recede from the walls by more than twenty millimeters. Now you can install the frames. If necessary, insulating or insulating materials can be laid under them. Despite the relative ease and cleanliness of work, drywall reduces the usable area and is less durable compared to plastered walls.
Before you start leveling very curved walls in a room, they need to be prepared. It is required to remove old wallpaper or cracked paint, and, if necessary, remove the swollen layer of plaster. This must be done carefully so as not to accidentally damage the wiring. When the walls are cleaned, they need to be treated with a primer. On primed walls, the leveling material will lie better. To align the walls with drywall, you need to use a special mounting adhesive. Sold in any hardware store.
Alignment of walls with drywall
The most common way to level walls.
Pros:
- comfortable and fast way alignment of curved walls;
- saving material;
- durable uniform surface.
Minuses:
- hollow, echoing wall;
- wall thickness increases.
After the walls are prepared, you need to find out the curvature of the wall. If the curvature is up to 7 mm, then you can simply apply glue to the drywall sheet and glue it. If the curvature is up to 20 mm, then we apply glue in the form of cakes around the entire perimeter on the drywall sheet. If the walls are too curved, and the curvature is longer than 20 mm, then first we glue the primed plasterboard strips to the wall, and the sheet of material itself will be glued to these strips.
Please note that the glue sets quite quickly, about half an hour. Therefore, it is not necessary to coat the entire wall with it at once. Drywall sheets should be wall, and preferably moisture resistant. After the glue has been applied, we apply the drywall to the wall, and at the top and bottom we make an indent of about 10-20 mm, and put it under the lining sheet. This will evaporate excess moisture glue, so it sticks faster. If there are outlets for communications in the wall, holes should be cut in advance on drywall.
frame method. To level very curved walls, you can use the frame method of installing drywall. The essence of the method is to install a drywall sheet on frames made of wood or metal profiles. If you want to use wood as a frame, then keep in mind that it must be dried as much as possible, otherwise the bars will dry out when the wall is leveled, which will lead to the curvature of the entire structure. Sheets can separate and gaps form between them, so it is better to use metal profiles. Metal carcass requires the installation of two types of profile: rack-mount and guide. Guide profiles are needed to install the contour, and are installed parallel to each other, first to the ceiling surface, and then, using a plumb line, the exact location of attachment to the floor is determined. To do this, we take self-tapping screws and connect the guide profiles and the rack profiles, which are inserted into the guides in increments of 50 cm.
Leveling very curved walls using plaster
without spending a lot of energy and Money? There is an option -. There are two types: gypsum and cement-sand. Any mixture will do, but gypsum mixture is more convenient to work with and the quality is higher. At the corners of the walls we attach beacons with a mass, as close as possible to the wall, in order to determine the level of curvature. We also install beacons along the wall. Now we knead the solution until a homogeneous thick state so that it does not drain from the spatula. Next, we wet the walls with water and throw a solution on it. After that, we evaluate the level of the plastered wall in accordance with the beacons, and remove the excess solution. When we got rid of the bumps, we rub the bumps with a grater. When the solution hardens slightly, we get rid of the beacons, and close up the remaining grooves.
The curvature of the walls in our apartments has already become almost a topic for jokes, but during repairs this curvature has to be corrected, and here it’s no longer a laughing matter. So what are the options for dealing with this scourge? I'll try to tell.
There are several options:
1. Masking the bumpiness of the walls with wallpaper with a cheerful pattern. To be honest, the option inherited from Soviet times, and therefore we will not consider it as suitable only for cosmetic repairs and then only as a temporary measure.
2. Installation wall panels. This option is easy to perform, as it does not require any preparation of the walls or special skills, and the commercially available selection of wall panels allows you to choose the color and texture just for your interior. There are also moisture-resistant wall panels suitable for use in the bathroom, as well as panels with improved heat-insulating and sound-absorbing functions. The disadvantage of the panels is that they give the interior a somewhat office look, and, in fact, they do not look rich.
3. Drywall. In my opinion, best material for leveling walls, excluding plaster. It can be fastened both to the frame-crate, and directly glued to the wall using gypsum with the addition of bone glue to prevent instant setting of the gypsum. In the first case, under the drywall, you can additionally place sound and heat insulation, as well as various communications (wiring and antenna wire, for example). Drywall can be either wallpapered, pre-treated with self-tapping screws to prevent corrosion, or whitewashed and painted various paints. So there are many options for finishing such walls.
4. Plaster. Probably the most time-consuming method of leveling walls, but giving the best and most durable result. One of the advantages of this method compared to leveling with drywall or wall panels is less loss of room space, and this is important for small rooms.
However, it is worth paying attention directly to plaster mixtures, which can be divided into two groups according to the price / quality ratio. The first group is cheap plaster mixtures made using outdated technologies and suitable only in cases where the cost of repairs is at the forefront. The second group is plaster mixtures made either by domestic companies using the technologies of Western companies or their own, but developed recently, or original plaster mixtures produced by Western companies.
Here, probably, are all the ways to level the walls, and which one to choose depends only on you and your budget and skills. Or entrust the choice to specialists repairmen.
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User comments:
The best option in terms of cost, simplicity and end result - definitely drywall! When sticking to the wall, space is not lost, and if insulation is needed, we attach it to the profile. By the way, there is a special Perlfix glue for gluing, you don’t need to invent anything with bone glue!
We had a problem with a very curved wall in the living room. For a long time we hid it with a large carpet, but when everyone finally got tired of it, we decided to look for another way out. And they came to the conclusion that the ideal option is drywall: it is inexpensive and there is practically no hassle. At the same time, we decided to level the rest of the walls in the room. The work turned out to be quite simple - they glued sheets of drywall, then painted it - and the room was transformed beyond recognition! Three years have passed since then, but there are no problems and, I hope, will not be.
So my personal choice in a situation with curved walls is drywall and drywall only.
Of course the curvature of the walls is a huge problem, and the author gave a very good advice who can help many.
Well, I can’t but agree that drywall in this case is an ideal option, cheap, high quality and beautiful. and very quickly you can level the walls with drywall.
Drywall is definitely the best option, but if you install it yourself, it is probably even more labor-intensive than plaster.
We plastered with a mixture of Knauf. The good news is that many popular manufacturers have everything in the kit - plaster, finish, and primer. Everything “lives without conflict” among themselves 🙂
I'm also leaning towards plaster. Drywall is a good thing for spacious apartments, and in city birdhouses every centimeter counts and you don’t want to lose it. In addition, when using drywall, it is necessary to foresee options for attaching hanging cabinets, carpets, etc. in advance. Yes, and the strength of the plaster is much better.
In our small bathroom(less than 3 sq.m.), part of the walls was leveled with plaster, and the side with pipes and risers was sheathed with plasterboard. The optimal option turned out. If everyone covered with drywall, then the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom would become very tiny. Plastered walls are a more natural option, they do not have voids, they do not tap like gypsum. In general, you should use plaster wherever you can do without drywall.
It is better to use drywall using wall sticker technology not only in small apartments. In this option, there is less danger of damaging the partition mechanically, and then furniture and paintings can be hung anywhere on the wall, just take longer fasteners. And sheathing to align the walls along the frame makes sense only in rooms that need mandatory additional insulation.
Of course, it is best to thoroughly plaster the wall along the lighthouses so that any finish can be used later. But this option is not always applicable, for example, if the family is experiencing financial difficulties or has a small child, and you don’t want the apartment to be filled with the “flavors” of damp plaster. As a temporary option for masking bumps, you can use mirrored wall stickers that simply distract attention from the quality of the surface.
- Alignment requires curved, uneven or littered walls, if any in your home. Alignment of the walls is usually always necessary during repair work. Whatever quality you buy, they will not be able to hide the curvature of the wall from the eyes. When installing furniture, you will not only not hide, but, on the contrary, visually emphasize the defectiveness of the surface. Walls with a large curvature are usually leveled with either plaster mixes. The first step in leveling a curved wall is to prepare its surface. old surface it is cleaned of wallpaper, cracked paint or plaster with a spatula, hammer and perforator. The work must be done carefully.
Wall preparation
- Do not forget about safety when performing repairs! Remember, wires are hidden under the treated surface. Before starting work, disconnect the power supply in the repaired room. If you have been living in an apartment for a long time, consider whether this renovation will be a great opportunity to change the wiring, install additional sockets and switches, relocate lighting to another place.
Padding. Exposure of lighthouses
- After you get rid of the old materials on the wall, treat its surface with a primer designed specifically to ensure that the wall and the new leveling material are perfectly connected and do not crack or peel. Proper wall alignment is a complex and lengthy process. The first step will be the installation of special beacons. They are placed on the surface that you are going to align. Subsequently, these beacons will become the level for all subsequent measurements. Beacons should be installed with special care and responsibility. To obtain the greatest possible accuracy, use a construction bubble or laser level, a plumb line or thread stretched across a horizontal surface. After installing the beacons, we proceed to the next stage. To do this, we use a gypsum plaster mixture in our work. We carry out all work according to the level, conventional or laser, striving to obtain the most even surface in the same plane as possible.
Applying plaster
- The third stage will be the plastering of the walls. The plaster mortar is prepared using the manufacturer's instructions on the package. For faster and better kneading, we use a drill with a special nozzle in the form of a mixer or a plaster station for machine application of plaster. We start work from the bottom of the wall, strictly focusing on the position of the lighthouses.
How to align wall corners
Date: 2012-08-13
From this article, you will learn how to straighten wall corners. At the beginning, a little theory about why and when it is appropriate to align the corners of the walls, and then step by step with photographs.
So why are the corners of the walls crooked? Because the plaster is not of high quality. Curved corners are striking. In any case, during the repair, the corners must be aligned. This can be done by level or by plane (by bumps).
Which method and when to apply? If the walls are prepared for wallpapering, then better angles level up. If the wallpaper is patterned or has vertical stripes, then with curved walls you will have to cut the wallpaper in the corner, as a wrinkle will form. This will spoil the whole look of the wallpaper, the picture will shift. For other types (painting, decorative plaster) you can align the corners on the plane. Personally, I think that it is better to align not only the corners of the walls, but the whole walls.
Brief technology: The corners are leveled with gypsum plaster, making a beacon in the very corner, and then the corner is tightened to the width of the rule. The longer the rule, the smoother and less noticeable the transition from the corner to the wall. It is necessary to use gypsum plaster (starting putty), as it allows you to level fairly thin layers without sagging.
Let's get started. You will need:
- Primer
- Gypsum plaster
- Drill with whisk
- rule
- Buckets
- Spatula
- Squirt (required)
- Sandpaper number 40 and grater
I will say right away that it is better to have two rules in the arsenal, one is 2.5 m, the second is 1.5 m. It is good to make a lighthouse first, since you will capture the entire wall in height at once, and tighten the plaster with the second.
Before you align the corners of the walls, you need to determine where the bumps are. To do this, put the rule in a corner and look at the gap. Mark the most protruding places with a pencil. Now put the rule horizontally on the bump in the corner and check if there is a gap. If there is, then the hillock can be knocked down. Thus, you will need less materials to level the corner, because the layer will become smaller.
If you use a 1.5 m rule to tighten the plaster, then we prime the walls from the corner to a distance slightly greater than the length of the rule - 1.6 m. After it dries, you can make a lighthouse in the corner. You already know where your hillocks are, and you need to make a beacon along them, using them as stops.
Dilute the gypsum plaster, mix it twice so that it is without lumps. Then apply a 5 cm wide track on the wall in the very corner and pull it vertically with the rule. The result should look like this beacon:
Pay attention to some subtleties. In each corner you need to make two lighthouses, since there are also two walls. And if you align all the corners in the room, then you first need to do one beacon in the corner, in a circle. This way you won't damage the neighboring beacons in one corner while they are wet. If you have only a short rule, which is not enough for the entire height, then the lighthouses are made along the bottom, and when the bottom hardens, the top part of the lighthouse is completed. If the layer is too thin and “tears”, then it should be diluted with water to a more liquid state.
Separately, let's talk about beacons by level. For their device, you will also need a level. Attach the rule to the wall and determine the most protruding place. This will be one reference point for the beacon. Then you need to drive a chopstick into the wall and screw in a self-tapping screw so that you end up with a strictly vertical beacon. Read more about lighthouses in the article: Application gypsum plaster. Starter putty.
After the beacons dry, you can tighten the wall using the rule. We need to bring the wall and the corner to nothing. To do this, we spread putty on the length of the rule, rest the rule on the lighthouse in the corner and on the wall and tighten the excess. As a result, we get this angle:
You need to use a squirt gun, as a thin layer of putty will tear in the area of the lighthouse and at the opposite end. This happens when you re-tighten. spray the surface with water again. When removing the putty from the rule back into the bucket, immediately throw the last one to the side (from the side of the lighthouse). She is dirty and dry. Once in a bucket of normal plaster, she will draw furrows for you.
After the plaster has hardened, it can be stretched in a thin layer to fill in all scratches and grooves. After complete drying, the corners should be sanded. To do this, put the rule against the wall and move it up and down. Black marks are bumps that should be sanded. The farther from the corner, the crooked the wall, because you didn’t make a lighthouse on the wall itself.
You can also align the corners of the walls above and below, so that the plinth and baguette look smoother.
That's all, write your opinion on how to align the corners of the walls in the comments.
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If something is not clear to you - ask a question on the page: ask a repair question
How to level walls - leveling walls (4 photos)
Small cracks or bumps will help hide expensive corrugated wallpaper, but if the walls in your apartment are “wavy”, then only alignment will help.
According to the types of materials used, there are two types of wall alignment - dry (installation various designs from drywall) and raw (using building mixtures). Each of these methods is effective only if a strict sequence of work is observed, but has its own characteristics.
So, the alignment of walls with plaster is used for small differences in "heights" - from 30 to 60 mm. If necessary, you can level the walls with a greater curvature in a crude way, but this will require more time and money for material and work. In this case, it is better to give preference to the installation of the frame, followed by plasterboard sheathing.
But no matter which method you choose, the main thing is to pay maximum attention to aligning the corners. Curvature, imperceptible to the eye, will manifest itself when gluing borders and installing skirting boards.
Immediately before leveling the wall, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory work.
First of all, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the wall irregularities. When measuring horizontally, you can use the cord by pulling it taut along the wall, or use building level, the length of which should not be less than 1.5 m. Vertical irregularities are measured with a plumb line. If the differences are not more than 3 - 5 cm, then this wall defect is corrected with the help of building mixtures.
Leveling walls with plaster
When choosing a dry building mix, it is necessary to pay attention to both the thickness of the applied layer and the type of “binding” material (cement or gypsum).
When using drywall for wall cladding, pay attention to the base - it should not have crumbling fragments and be durable.
The wall lined with plasterboard must be protected from exposure to excessive moisture. This wall also cannot be subjected to spatial deformation. Do not allow freezing of the wall and the appearance of condensate.
And in order for drywall sheets to hold better and longer, the wall must be cleaned of residues of mortar, oil, wax and other substances that impair the contact properties of the adhesive. After that, the wall must be primed.
On very porous, loose surfaces, apply with a brush or sprayer.
On walls that do not absorb moisture - and other dense, low-porous surfaces - a special primer marked "concrete active".
Before installation drywall sheets don't forget to mount concealed wiring. Mounting boxes for sockets should not protrude above the wall surface by more than 20 mm.
Pros and cons of leveling walls with plaster and drywall
The use of building mixtures does not reduce the living area of the apartment. But this method is quite laborious, in the production of work there is a lot of dirt - debris and dust.
When facing walls with drywall, no pre-cleaning of the surface is required. In addition, heat and sound insulating materials can be laid behind the frame, as well as various communications can be hidden. But the walls sheathed with plasterboard “eat up” part of the usable area of the apartment and withstand a much lower load compared to a wall covered with building mixture.
When buying material, pay attention to the color of drywall sheets. Its moisture-resistant varieties can be distinguished by a green cardboard coating, while ordinary sheets will be gray. For wall cladding in bathrooms, kitchens and other rooms with high humidity choose GKLV sheets.
Got crooked walls? align! » do-it-yourself apartment renovation
If the walls in the apartment are crooked and you absolutely do not want to put up with this, there are several options:
1. Paste wallpaper with a cheerful pattern to visually hide the unevenness of the walls.
2. Install wall panels.
3. Straighten the walls with drywall sheets.
4. Arm yourself with the necessary plaster mixtures, beacons, squares - and use them to level the walls completely and irrevocably.
With option 1, popular in Soviet times, everything is obvious - it will not radically improve the situation. For this reason, let's move on immediately to the remaining 3rd ones.
Panels
Pros this option quite a few. There is no need to specially prepare the walls, there are more than 40 varieties of panel decors today: under natural wood, with imitation of foliage, marble, there are even similar ones that you can’t distinguish from. The panels are moisture resistant, have good sound absorption and thermal insulation.
They are usually attached to a crate (metal or made of a frame that is attached to the wall), under which it is possible to hide the wires, because there is a space of up to 25 millimeters between the panel and the wall. And it's easy to replace: I installed the crate 1 time - and change the panels as much as you like, like ordinary wallpaper.
Drywall
Plastering materials: traditions and difficultiesPlastering worksWhat a parquet restorer should understand The Basics of Methods This now fashionable material is a well-forgotten old one - simply dry plaster: after all, a GK sheet is a very dense cardboard on a gypsum base. It also needs a crate, metal or wood. However, it is possible to attach a sheet of GK to the wall without a crate - just stick it with the so-called gypsum mastic test, which is made of building gypsum and 2 percent bone solution (glue is necessary so that the gypsum does not harden in the same minute). Also drywall. best base under wallpaper. They can be glued without any pre-treatment, the only thing worth doing is to cover the nail heads with nitro enamel or alcohol varnish to prevent rusting. And it is possible not to paste over the walls, but, for example, to whitewash or paint with oil or glue paint, like ordinary plastered surfaces. It is not advisable to just use lime paints, as they do not adhere well to cardboard.
Plaster
When leveling with plaster mixtures (gypsum or cement-sand), you will have almost no loss of space, because it is placed directly on a curved wall. From additional material you will need only plaster profiles: plaster beacon guide rails (or simply "beacons") and protective plaster corners.
Although pay attention to plaster mixtures.
In terms of cost-quality ratio, experts divide plasters into subsequent groups.
I-I - the cheapest materials produced by outdated methods. They are applicable in those situations where the decisive factor is cost, not quality.
The second group consists of high-tech mixtures that are made by domestic enterprises jointly with foreign companies or on their own, but with the use of imported components (most often, these are modifying additives).
And finally, the original plasters of well-known foreign companies are related to the third group.
Those who decided to build buildings good repair, experts advise, if possible, to buy materials of the II and III groups. At the same time, plaster compositions of Russian and foreign manufacture can be successfully combined, cladding the most "responsible" expensive imported building materials, and all others - also of high quality, but cheaper domestic ...
It will come in handy
Lighthouses provide an opportunity in a short time and without extra costs get a smooth plastered surface with a selected thickness of the plaster layer. In addition, they make it possible to maintain the solidity of the walls after plastering, because they remain in the wall and do not require subsequent dismantling. And it is no less important that such work does not require high qualifications, you can cope with it yourself.
Plaster corners protect the corners of the premises from damage. They also create these most even and beautiful corners.
Online about wall alignment:
Wall alignment. how to level the walls with your own hands.
I already wrote about leveling ceilings. Now I will describe in detail how to align the walls. Unfortunately, in our old, and often just built and commissioned houses, the walls and ceilings leave much to be desired. Drops, waves, all kinds of cracks and dents. If you don't care appearance your apartment, then definitely before using the walls for wallpapering, overlaying or other types of finishing works they need to be aligned.
How to level walls? First of all, as in the case of leveling the ceiling, decide how you want to level the walls in your apartment. This can be done with building mixtures or using drywall.
Have you decided what kind of manipulations with your wall you will do after leveling? Are you going to align the walls with wallpaper? Under the tiles? Or are you just going to paint it?
If, for example, you want to stick wallpaper or paint a wall, then both options are possible: both leveling the walls with drywall, and using building mixtures. If you are going to lay tiles, then we need wall leveling compounds for a more rigid adhesion of the tile to the wall.
How to level walls with building mixtures? Now I will explain how to do it yourself and quite simply. In one of the upper corners of our wall we drive in a nail, leaving somewhere 2-3 mm on the surface. This is our first beacon. Next, we take the thread and attach some kind of load to it, the same nut. We get a hang. We fasten this plumb line to our nail in such a way that the load almost reaches the floor. We wait until the plumb line stops swinging and freezes in place. We get a straight line. We drive in the second carnation at the bottom of our wall so that the thread and the head of the nail are on the same line. Approximately as in the picture on the right.
The owners of old houses, or even new ones, in which poor-quality finishes are made, often face the problem of curved walls. You can ignore the curved walls and then this will not be a problem. But if you want the apartment to look decent, you have to take up the trowel.
alignment concrete walls, as well as alignment brick wall, carried out by plastering. But before that, the wall must be primed.
Primer
First of all, we impregnate the wall with a primer, which improves the adhesion of the plaster to the wall. If the wall surface is loose, for example, consisting of foam concrete blocks, then it is advisable to apply several layers of soil. In general, with any wall material, if the primer is absorbed quickly, a second layer is definitely needed. And if you abandon the primer in order to save time and money, then there is a high risk that the plaster will fall off and you will have to redo everything.
How to set beacons for plaster
Gone are the days when walls were plastered "by eye" and the quality of work depended only on the experience of the plasterer. Now, guide beacons are used for plastering, thanks to which even a beginner can create a perfectly flat plastered surface. To do this, you need guide beacons, which are sold in almost any hardware store. They are different sizes. Beacon number 6 is best for us. Any quick-drying material is used to attach the beacons to the wall. Perfect option- building alabaster, which dries in a couple of minutes. It is better to start work with a small wall. When "hands are full" on a small wall, then it will be easier to cope with a large area. First of all, extreme beacons are installed, i.e. extreme right and extreme left. But we install them not from the very edge of the wall, but about 20 centimeters from the edge. We measure the height of the ceiling and cut off the lighthouse desired length. We knead the alabaster with water and apply a small amount of the solution to the wall (top, bottom and middle). And while it has not hardened, quickly press and align the beacon. In this case, several requirements must be met.
Firstly, the beacon must be installed so that a plaster layer of 15 - 30 mm would be obtained as a result. Those. the outer side of the beacon should be at this distance from the wall. But in the case of a very curved wall, you can deviate from this rule and exceed the allowable 30 mm, because. otherwise the wall will not be leveled.
Secondly, the beacon must be installed strictly according to the level. Therefore, we apply a level to the lighthouse and align its vertical position. We hold the lighthouse in this position for a minute so that the alabaster hardens. Install the beacon on the other side of the wall in the same way. After that, it remains only to install intermediate beacons. We install them at an equal distance from each other, so that the distance between them is a meter or a half. The installation of intermediate beacons is somewhat different. They must be installed not relative to the wall, but relative to the extreme lighthouses. To do this, you can take a long, even rail and attach it to the extreme beacons, or pull the fishing line from above and below from the left beacon to the right one and install an intermediate beacon in accordance with the position of the rail or fishing line. Then you can be sure that all beacons are in the same plane. This work is best done together, because. it is necessary to apply the rail and hold the beacon, which is difficult to do alone. This is the most important stage of work, because the result of all work depends on how to put the beacons on the wall. After that, plaster must be applied under the lighthouse along its entire length. If this is not done, then when we begin to press the rule against the lighthouse, the lighthouse will begin to bend and a cavity will turn out in the wall. Therefore, it is impossible for the lighthouse to hang in the air, it must rest against the plaster along its entire length.
Plastering
When the solution under the beacons has dried up, you can start plastering. For this purpose, it is best to choose a gypsum plaster mixture. Why plaster? Because such plaster is able to "breathe", and it will provide the room with a better microclimate. Thoroughly mix the plaster mixture, so that a homogeneous mass without lumps is obtained. After that, let the mixture brew for five minutes. But before that, we read the instructions on the packaging with the mixture and do everything in accordance with the instructions, because. specific recommendations may vary. If there are depressions on the wall, the thickness of the plaster in which will have to exceed 30 mm, then first you need to close up these depressions with mortar, wait a day and only after that start plastering the entire wall. If this is not done and a large layer is immediately sculpted, then the plaster will slide down, or it will simply fall off. The solution is applied to the wall with a trowel or trowel. In this case, the solution can be smeared into the wall, or it can be thrown. Who is more comfortable. We fill with a solution all the space between the beacons. We take a long rule, press it to two lighthouses and stretch it from bottom to top, while making small movements to the right and left. We remove the solution from the rule, clean its working part and repeat the procedure. It is advisable to wash the rule periodically, because. a rule with a dried mixture slips worse and good result can't be done with him. Next, we fill up all the holes with a trowel and again go through the rule. The result should be a perfectly flat surface. Then we move on to the next gap between the beacons and repeat the procedure.
In order for the work to be of the highest quality and the plaster does not crack, it is recommended to use a paint grid. To do this, we need a paint grid with a cell of 5 by 5 mm. We impose it on fresh plaster, take a spatula and smooth the mesh with it, pressing it into the surface of the plaster. The result should be a flat surface, and the grid should not protrude outward.
When the entire wall is plastered, we take a break of 10-12 days, so that the plaster has time to dry, and proceed to puttying.
How to remove beacons from plaster
No, this is not necessary so that the corners can be reused. The point is different. The walls of the apartment sometimes start to get damp (especially in autumn, when the air humidity is high and the heating is not yet turned on). The corners that are in damp plaster gradually begin to rust. Over time, rust breaks through the plaster, putty and begins to appear on the wallpaper. A very unpleasant surprise! To insure against this, after the plaster dries a little, it is necessary to remove the beacons from the wall. This is done simply. Above the upper edge of the lighthouse we peel off the plaster (it is advisable to mark the location of the lighthouses in advance, for example, with a line on the ceiling, so as not to guess where they are later). We pick up the edge of the lighthouse so that it protrudes. Then we grab it with pliers and tear it off the wall. We also do with all the other beacons. After that, we plaster the formed depressions.
Puttying
So we have flat wall, but with cracks, pores, small pits. All this will fix puttying. For this purpose, we use gypsum putty, intended for internal works. Mix it with water (after reading the instructions on the package). We wait 5 minutes. Mix again and get to work. We take a long spatula, apply putty along its entire length and smear the putty on the wall. There is one here important point. Plaster is not always perfectly smooth. Often it consists of small undulating irregularities. If you attach a bar, a level, or at least the spatula itself to the wall, it will become clear whether there are these irregularities and in which direction they are directed. If they are, then the spatula must be driven parallel to the waves. In this case, the putty will ideally fill all the cavities between the waves. On the packaging with the putty mixture, the permissible thickness of the putty layer is indicated. When working, you must strictly adhere to this value. If this value is exceeded, then the putty may begin to move down, forming smudges, or crack when dry. Slowly, gently putty the entire wall. At the same time, we apply the mixture to the wall with the movement of the spatula in one direction. Then we clean the spatula and move in reverse side remove excess putty. And if you apply putty and remove excess by moving in the same direction, then it will be much more difficult to achieve a good result. It must also be remembered that each new layer is applied slightly overlapping the previous one. If cavities remain, then we immediately cover them up and again level everything with a spatula. The more carefully we putty the wall, the less sanding will have to be done later! After the putty has hardened, we grind the wall sandpaper. If you plan to glue the wallpaper, then it does not make sense to grind hard. It is enough just to remove all the protruding places, which does not take much time. But if you plan to paint, then you will have to spend more time, because you can only level the walls for painting by neat and high-quality puttying and sanding.
