Body repair is a complex operation that requires certain knowledge, special tools and devices. One such device is the reverse hammer. This is a simple tool that is easy to make with your own hands. For this, there are many photos and videos on the Internet. You can also download a drawing of the simplest version of the device.
What is a reverse hammer and what is it for?
This tool is a device that allows you to apply a certain force to a section of metal with limited access. A device is used to level small areas of a deformed car that have suffered from minor accidents.
Some areas of the car body can be leveled with a conventional rubber mallet, applying blows from the back. However, most surfaces do not have such access. In such cases, a reverse hammer is needed. Its tip is fixed at the place of deformation, and with the help of the load, which is located at the other end of the device, a retracting jerky force is transmitted to the surface.
Before you make a reverse hammer, you need to describe the varieties of this tool. You will need this to make a drawing of the device you need, and then make it.
Varieties of reverse hammer
Despite its simplicity, this device has acquired several versions over time. Each option is used in individual cases, which depend on the type of damage and the skill of the specialist. In general terms, the design of this device is the same, as is its principle of operation. The differences are only in the method of attaching the tool to the body.
The most common reverse hammer is a metal rod, at one end of which there is a hook, and at the other end there is a load with a stop. The hook is hooked onto a washer welded to the place of deformation by welding. Applying shock forces to the load, the deformation is extended to the desired moment.
The second, equally simple version of the reverse hammer differs from the previous one in that at the end, instead of a hook, there is a regular thread. To level the surface with such a device, it is necessary to make a hole in the center of deformation, insert the threaded end there, and fasten the washer and nut on it on the reverse side.
The most complex type of this device has a vacuum device at the end, which is fixed on the surface of the deformed part with the help of rarefied air. The suction cup can be actuated either by a compressor or by a conventional method. This type of device allows the leveler to repair minor damage to the bodywork, and at the same time preserve the paintwork of the site, if it is not damaged.
Self-manufacturing
Making a reverse hammer at home with your own hands is quite simple. It does not take much time, and does not require special materials and tools. For a better understanding, you can watch a video on the Internet. A primitive drawing will also not be superfluous.
To make this tool with your own hands, you will need the following:
- metal pin about 50 cm and 20 mm in diameter;
- cargo that has an internal hole;
- threading tool (optional)
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian.
If it is decided to make a reverse hammer with a hook type of fastening, then a hook is made at the end of the pin. You can do it with a vise or pliers. Or boil welding machine a ready-made hook from another device.
If the tool is made with a threaded grip, then a thread is cut at the end of the pin with an appropriate tool. You should not cut a lot of threads, since the metal of the body is quite thin.
After the tip is made, a load is put on the pin, which is limited to the back of the tool. This can be done by welding, or using a threaded stop. The second method is preferable, as it will allow the use of loads of different weights depending on the required force at the end of the reverse hammer.
Again, to visually understand how this happens, the easiest way is to watch the video. If this is not possible, then the procedure for working with this device is approximately as follows:
- the tip is fixed on the deformed section of the body;
- by hitting the load on itself, the part is aligned to the desired position;
- if the effort is not enough, then the load changes to a heavier one.
When pulling a relatively large piece of metal, you can weld several washers in line and thread a pin through them. To do this correctly, it is advisable to watch a video on this topic. Then this pin is hooked with a hook, which is welded to the fixture and pulled along with the metal, aligning it to the desired state. When using this method, be careful, as welding a large number of washers can pull the metal excessively and ruin the body part.
All wooden handles hand tool, I make from well-dried birch, including for hammers. For hammers weighing 300-400 grams, a blank of a rectangular bar, 350 millimeters long, with sides 40x30, is enough. Measure the inner throat of the hammer head. After finishing, you should get a bar with sides of approximately 35x25. On one side of the bar, mark the center (with lines from corner to corner). Build a rectangle around this center with sides equal to the hole on the hammer in width and height. Drive the ribs and planes of the bar with a planer from the back of the future handle to the sides of the rectangle drawn on the end. Chamfer the corners and round them off. Using sandpaper, fit the front edge of the handle to the size of the hole in the hammer so that it comes into tension.
The lines on the end of the handle that we drew to build the rectangle will now become marks for the place of the wedges. Take a chisel and make notches on them, so that the notches do not reach the edge of the handle closer than 5 mm, otherwise the wedges can split the handle.
We drive in wedges crosswise - first wooden and then iron. I use resinous pine for a wooden wedge, it sticks well to a birch handle.
None paints and varnishes I do not use for impregnation. I don't feel comfortable when the handle slides. A new handle mounted on a hammer, including its end parts, is impregnated a couple of times with clean engine oil, with drying a day between layers. The handle of such a hammer does not absorb water, even when left in the rain, the hand does not freeze from it in the cold season, and as a kind of aesthetic addition, it has a beautiful amber color - this staining color of birch is obtained from oil.
In this article, we will show you how to create a creative hammer handle in the form of a hand.
Hello!
This time, an old Soviet hammer without a handle turned up under my arm, which had been lying idle in my workshop for a long time.
The Internet is full of pictures with the anatomical structure of bones. We choose a more informative and simple drawing, estimate the dimensions of the hammer and approximate size bones and cut rebar.
In my work, I took 12 mm as a basis. round fittings for the handle and 10 mm. for fingers.
From the tool I needed only:
- welding machine.
I used a semi-automatic, but an inverter for RDS, which may well be in yours, will also fit here!
The workflow is pretty straightforward, so instead of tons of text, I'll just go through the chapters and mark the process in a photo.
I made the entire selection of excess on the bones with a sweeping circle of the grinder. 
For the hammer, I made it from 2 pieces of reinforcement. The photo shows that I noted the length of the handle + the segment on which I will later weld the bones + seat under the hammer.
I also betrayed the relief of the handle with a welding machine and tapping a little on it, I got a kind of handle for a hammer in garage conditions.
And now, when all the parts are individually ready: hammer, fingers, handle; We start assembling and welding. 
After the hammer was ready, I decided to oxidize and rust it a little - so to speak, to give atmospheric work.
I poured water over the hammer from the sprayer, from which the hammer darkened and got a more interesting look.
Well, you can see the result and the full process in the video!
Think you know everything about hammers? What could be simpler - a pen, a percussion part, score it, but rejoice! There really is nothing complicated in their device, but you can get confused in the varieties. A metalwork hammer, a nail puller, with and without a striker, picks - it's time to find out the whole truth about hammers!
Types of hammers - functional differences
Hammer - ancient instrument, and we can only guess for what purposes ancient people used it. But today it is a construction tool, without which not a single repair or construction project can do. Without a nail it is still possible, but without a hammer it will not work! Its design is designed to increase the impact force of a person at times and concentrate this force into one point - a person faces this need in almost every area where force must be applied.
By functional purpose these tools are divided into nail hammers, picks and hammers with strikers. Nail pullers are especially useful in household- so you can not only hammer a nail, but also, if necessary, pull it out. The design feature is the presence on the reverse side of two arcs bent inward, with which it is convenient to hook the nail head. Especially such hammers are popular with carpenters and builders. Hammers with strikers are mainly used for carpentry work, but sometimes they are also needed by the same tilers. The shape of the strikers are very different: square, round, narrow and wide, and so on.
The bricklayer's and tiler's hammer is a hammer with a flattened reverse side, which is easy to apply choking blows. With their help, you can split stones, remove excess brick or hardened concrete from the surface. Hatchet hammers are similar in design, the reverse side of the heads of which is flattened and sharpened in order to split or cut a thin object if necessary.
Much less common types of hammers that do not bounce off the surface. These are used to work with sheet metal and products requiring high precision. The ability to keep from reverse movement is provided by a cavity in the metal part of the hammer, which is half or three-quarters filled with metal shot. When the movement of the tool is directed towards the impact, the balls are collected in the back of the cavity, while during the impact itself they move forward by inertia, almost completely outweighing the rebound inertia.
What is a hammer - metalwork, soft, mallet!
There are hundreds of hammers in various shapes and sizes. If you highlight the main forms, you get this picture:
- Locksmith hammers, thanks to the narrowed back, can hammer even the smallest carnations. The material from which the working part is made is chrome vanadium steel. There are two types locksmith's hammer- one has the shape of a rectangle with a square striker, the second is slightly convex, round in shape. By weight, they are divided into 5 standard numbers. The first number weighs 200 grams, while the fifth - all 800. There are also specialized products weighing from 0.05 kg to 1 kg.
- "Soft" hammers are tools for hammering brittle materials. Usually the strikers of such tools are made of aluminum, copper, rubber, polyurethane, nylon and wood. The most practical purchase will be a hammer with interchangeable heads, thanks to which you can perform a huge list of jobs.
- A hammer with a notch on the striker prevents the striker from slipping off the nail head when struck. Most often used in carpentry.
- The roofer's hammer is characterized by a special recess at the top of the striker, in which nails can be fixed. different sizes. This simplifies the work when it is not possible to hold a nail with one hand and strike with a hammer with the other. A small magnet is embedded in the recess, which holds the nail on impact.
- A hammer with an addition on the back of the impact part in the form of a claw is the so-called nail hammer.
- A mallet is most often used to hammer chisels, so the material for its manufacture is the same type of wood from which the handle of the chisel is made. In fact, a mallet is wooden hammer, often made from a single piece of wood.
- Balda is a hammer for strong men! The history of the funny name has been lost for centuries, but such a fate does not threaten the tool itself - it is necessary in almost every construction or major repair. It looks like a huge hammer with a long thick handle and a large, heavy striker, which is also called a sledgehammer. Usually such big men are needed in order to break something, but it is very difficult to score like this without damaging the material itself.
We buy the right hammer!
Going to buy this tool, the most important thing is to decide on the size and weight of its working part. Too light a striker will not give the desired impact force, and on the contrary, an excessively heavy one will quickly wear you out when working. In addition, a heavy hammer can cause deep injury or inadvertently damage the material itself.
When buying, also pay attention to the material from which the working part is made. The head should preferably be forged, hardened and tempered. Hardening is carried out by an increased cooling rate of the material, but such a material has a high internal stress. To remove it, vacation is carried out - heating the product in an oven to a temperature of 150-250 ° C, followed by gradual cooling.
Although tempering reduces the hardening strength somewhat, in general, a product that has passed these stages is much stronger than ordinary metal parts.
handles in Lately made from the most different materials: plastic, polyurethane, fiberglass. But the wooden handle, based on the centuries-old experience of craftsmen, remains the most popular material. First, in wooden handle you can drive in a peg, which significantly strengthens its adhesion to the striker. Secondly, such a pen can be made independently if the old one has broken or become unusable for some other reason.
How to store and carry a hammer?
A hammer should always be at hand during work, but do not hold it all the time! For these purposes, there is a special belt with a convenient holder, which, however, can be made independently, from wire or a piece of leather. The essence of the holder is that it allows the pen to pass through the hole, but the striker cannot pass through. Thus, the tool is located on the belt with the handle down.
For easy storage of hammers and hammers, it is best to drill holes at the end of the handle(if it was not provided by the manufacturer) and make a stand stuffed with carnations convenient sizes. If you do not provide this tool with a permanent “residence”, you can be sure that you will spend more than one minute looking for it at the right time.
Electric version - jackhammer
Although the jackhammer is strikingly different from its older "brother", the principle of operation is the same - striking at one point. It’s just that it’s unlikely that a nail will be hammered with a hammer option, at least no one has tried it yet. Its main function is to dismantle various surfaces, structures, punching openings and niches in the walls, changing the pavement and much more.
The tool is somewhat similar to an electric or, however, a jackhammer has a more reliable and simplified design with increased impact force. The higher the force of impacts and their number, the better tool. The principle of operation of the striker is quite simple - inside the striker strikes the working part, which, after a lunge from the impact, returns to its original position. In addition to the destructive function, the jackhammer, using various platform-type nozzles, is able to compact the surface.
