The cheaper it is to insulate the ceiling of the house. What is the best way to insulate the ceiling? Necessary tools and materials. Insulation of the ceiling in the house: principles and features, materials, technology of work Ceilings insulation in your brick house

December 27, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Whatever efforts we make to insulate the walls and floor of the dwelling, a huge part of the heat energy loss falls on the upper part of the room. Therefore, it's time to talk about how to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Today I will tell you the best way to insulate the attic beam ceiling in a wooden house, and also describe in detail the technology for laying heat-insulating material inside the house in the country. The article shows the most effective, in my opinion, scheme, when a vapor barrier membrane is installed from the inside, and the main insulation from the outside. But about everything in due time.

The choice of material for work

To begin with, I want to figure out with you how you can insulate a ceiling constructed from floor beams. If you study the advice of heating professionals, you can see what each of them offers various materials: expanded clay, polystyrene, perlite, polyurethane foam and so on.

But out of all the variety it's warm insulating materials for warming a wooden ceiling, I suggest using basalt wool. In my opinion this the best choice if you decide how to insulate the ceiling from the outside along the logs. In support of what has been said, I cite the most important technical characteristics of this material.

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity of basalt wool is approximately 0.035 W / (m * K). Hence for effective thermal insulation it is enough to use a layer 10 cm thick. That is, the insulation boards will just fit into the gaps between the support beams.
High vapor permeability	The vapor permeability coefficient of the described insulation with a density of 50 kg per m3 is 0.6 mg / (m * h * Pa), which is more than that of wood. Consequently, the thermal insulation layer will not prevent air infiltration through the walls, moisture will evaporate from the floor beams. This will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house, and on the integrity of the building envelope.
Low hygroscopicity	In direct contact with a liquid, the material absorbs no more than 2% of its own volume of moisture. That is, if water gets on the ceiling (ceiling on the reverse side) due to a leaking roof, the liquid will not reduce the performance of the heat-shielding layer.
High fire safety	According to the current classification of building materials, basalt mats are classified as NG. The insulation does not ignite under the action of an open flame, does not contribute to the spread of fire and does not emit toxic smoke. This is very important for a dwelling built of wood.
High sound insulation	The open structure of mineral mats (in contrast to foam) contributes to a very effective absorption of sound waves of structural and air origin. When using basalt insulation for thermal insulation of the ceiling, the inhabitants of the upper and lower floors will not hear each other's conversation, and the people below will not suffer from the rumble of furniture moving upstairs and careless steps.
biological neutrality	The insulation has antiseptic properties; mold, fungus and other microorganisms do not form on its surface and inside. As a result, wooden floor beams will be reliably protected from rot, which will extend their service life.
Ease	The insulation is a porous material, therefore it is light in weight. The thermal insulation layer on the ceiling (even with additional hydro and vapor barrier membranes) will not exert a large load on the floor beams, load-bearing walls and foundation.
Ease of installation	All work on the installation of basalt insulation is carried out manually. To do this, you do not need compressors and other mechanisms (as is the case with PPU). In addition, its use eliminates the use of "wet" construction processes, so you can work even at negative air temperatures.
Long term exploitation	Basalt mats will retain their original technical characteristics for as long as the ceiling beams themselves. At the same time, the insulation does not shrink, forming islands of cold and reducing the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

A small fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey is the high price of insulation. However, taking into account all the performance characteristics listed above, I believe that this is the best material for thermal insulation of a ceiling in a frame or in log house outside.

For work, I will use basalt wool slabs manufactured by Knauf Insulation TeploKrovlya Expert. They are cut into pieces 1200 by 610 mm in size, that is, with a distance between the beams of 600 mm, the insulation will fit back to back without forming gaps. The thickness of the material is 50 mm, since I will put it in two layers with alternating joints. One package is enough for 18.3 m2 of surface (but keep in mind that you will have to put in two layers).

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling. However, in addition to mineral mats, other materials with tools will also be needed. I will list them in the next section.

Necessary tools and materials

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to stock up on other materials:

1. Vapor barrier membrane. This polymer film does not allow water vapor formed in the room as a result of human activity to penetrate into the insulation, causing the latter to become wet. It is better not to use impervious films, as all the benefits of breathable mineral wool are lost. An excellent manufacturer of vapor barrier membranes is Juta.

1. waterproofing film. A waterproof membrane that protects the insulation layer from moisture as a result of water getting inside the insulation cake due to a leaky roof or for other subjective reasons.

1. Plywood. With it, I will hem the floor beams from below, that is, glued veneer sheets will support mineral mats between the rafters. Instead of plywood, you can use a board, GKL, GVL, lining and other similar materials. The thickness of the sheets is 10 mm, the brand is ordinary FK (you can use moisture-resistant PSF, but it has a higher level of formaldehyde emission).
2. Polyurethane adhesive for insulation. Sold in bottles, applied with mounting gun. It is needed only in order to, if necessary, seal the joints of thermal insulation sheets. Since I have everything calculated exactly, and the mineral wool is laid in two layers, it is practically not necessary to use foam.
3. Wooden bars with a section of 5 by 5 cm. They are useful for mounting the counter-lattice from the outside of the ceiling, since between the insulation and the top decorative material leave a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Choose high-quality lumber, the dimensions of which are the same along the entire length, otherwise you will not be able to make a flat floor.
4. Grooved board. The attic above the ceiling in my case will be used as residential attic. Therefore, I will make the floor (that is, the ceiling on the reverse side) strong and reliable from a grooved board. If you have just an attic there, you can limit yourself to plywood.
5. Fire and bioprotective impregnation for wood. This substance will need to process the floor beams and bars used for mounting the crate. Liquid will increase fire safety wooden structure, will destroy microorganisms and protect the enclosing structures from biocorrosion. You can use, for example, Bastion liquid, which, among other things, has hydrophobic properties.

As for the tools, the main ones are a screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws, a stapler for fixing films and a saw for cutting plywood and foam. Everything else is the usual set of plumbing fixtures, available in the arsenal of even a novice specialist.

Well, now it's time to move on to the story of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden dwelling.

Warming technology

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house is carried out in several steps. All of them are shown in the diagram below.

I will try to describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Floor preparation

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house begins with the preparation of the ceiling, which in my case is a set of load-bearing beams (from bars with a section of 50 by 100 mm) installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. I carry out the processing of load-bearing beams. Several important tasks need to be solved at once:
   • Check the integrity of structural elements, remove damaged areas and replace defective fragments. If the beams are not new, they must be cleaned of mold and fungus with sandpaper and grinder. Damaged sections are sawn out and replaced with new fragments, and I advise you to completely change the heavily worn beams for new ones. Otherwise, the life of the insulated ceiling will not be very long.

• Treat the beams with fire protection. To do this, the primer antiseptic composition of your choice is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package, after which the ceiling beams are covered with it. It is best to work with a brush-brush, carefully rubbing the fire protection into wooden surface(it should be well saturated).

1. I carry out the installation engineering communications in the ceiling. Most often (as in my case) these are three separate systems - ventilation, electricity and a chimney passage. Each has some minor features:
   • I recommend insulating ventilation pipes (made of thin-walled metal or plastic) with polyethylene foam cylinders or mineral mats. This will improve the efficiency of the system and reduce the noise generated by the airflow.

• Electrical wires in the ceiling wooden house(if you prefer concealed wiring) must be carried out in special metal or plastic fireproof channels. The latter prevent the ignition of the ceiling and further dissemination fire in the event of a short circuit.

• The intersection of the chimney pipe and the ceiling of a wooden house must be carefully protected with non-combustible fireproof material. I made a square box out of tin, which I mounted in the ceiling. After inner part the box was covered with expanded clay, which excluded contact hot pipe with boards and plywood ceiling.

Having completed the preparation wooden poles ceiling, you can go down to the living rooms, as further work will be carried out from inside the house.

Works indoors

From the lower part of the ceiling, we need to solve two problems - to exclude the moistening of mineral mats by water vapor dissolved in the air and to provide a reliable support for basalt fiber slabs (their installation procedure is described in the next section).

Therefore, the workflow will be as follows:

1. I fix a vapor barrier membrane on the floor beams. For this, as you already know, Juta vapor barrier film is used. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • I roll out the first roll of insulating membrane, after which I fix it on the bottom of the beams with construction stapler and staples. It is not necessary to pull it strongly, especially if the work is carried out in the warm season. The film should sag 1 cm every meter. In this case, after cooling (in winter), it will not tear.

• The second and subsequent rolls of the vapor barrier layer must be fixed in such a way that their edges form an overlap of 10 cm wide. This is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints.
• After processing the entire ceiling, the joints of the individual sheets must be glued with adhesive tape. The result should be a picture similar to the one shown in this photo.

1. I install the bars of the counter-lattice. With their help, a ventilation gap is formed between the film and the decorative material (in my case -), which will help to remove the moisture concentrated there.
   • The lumber that I will use for work is pre-treated with a fire retardant and an antiseptic (in one bottle). It is better to do it outdoors and bring it inside after protective compound completely absorbed into the surface and dry.

• Directly through the vapor barrier membrane, using self-tapping screws, I fasten the bars to the supporting joists of the ceiling so that the parts are perpendicular to each other. The distance between adjacent elements is about 40 cm. Thus, the bars will form a gap and serve as a support for the mineral wool insulation boards laid in the sphere.

• Between individual bars, as well as at the walls, gaps of 3-5 mm should be made, which are necessary to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the bars.

1. I hem the ceiling from below with sheets of birch plywood. I use this material because of the characteristics of the subsequent decorative finish. However, you can replace it with other suitable sheet or rack products. The scheme for mounting plywood is as follows:
   • I cut the sheets of material into parts of the required dimensions in such a way that after fixing the counter-lattice on the bars, there is a gap between the wall and the plywood. Through it, the condensed moisture will be removed from the air gap.

• I fix the plywood on the bars of the crate. For this, black self-tapping screws are perfect, which are protected from corrosion. The distance between the screws is 20 cm. They need to be screwed along the edge of the plywood sheets and in the middle, attracting the material to the supporting elements. There should be a distance of a few millimeters between plywood sheets to compensate for thermal expansion.

After that, you can finish work inside the living space and move to the attic, where the insulation will be laid.

Works in the attic

Work from the outside attic floor much easier than with the inside. The fact is that in this case you do not have to come up with various tricks to fix the mineral mats. They are easy and simple to lay on a horizontal surface and do not sag.

The detailed workflow looks like this:

1. I lay mineral mats between the floor joists. It is done like this:
   • Basalt fiber slabs are cut under the right dimensions. I have the distance between the lags exactly equal to the width of the slab minus 1 cm (the slab is 61 cm, the beams are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other). That is, the thermal insulation will become a surprise without the formation of cold bridges. If you need to customize the dimensions, then for this I recommend using a file with fine teeth or a sharp stationery knife with interchangeable blades.

• The first layer of insulation is laid on a vapor barrier film and bars of a counter-lattice fixed on the lower plane of the ceiling. It is necessary to fit the heat-insulating mats to each other as tightly as possible so that cold bridges do not form along the seams. Then the second layer is placed on top so that the gaps are interspersed with an offset of 15-20 cm relative to each other.

• Joints between mineral wool boards can be filled with polyurethane adhesive-foam. It glues the insulation fibers together and forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer, which excludes unproductive losses of thermal energy.

1. Installing a waterproofing membrane. It is necessary to use a special polymer film, and not ordinary polyethylene. The latter stops air infiltration through the ceiling, which negates all the advantages of using wood, mineral wool and other "breathable" materials. The scheme is as follows:
   • The membrane is rolled out over the insulation in such a way that the edges of one roll are located on the edges of the other, forming an overlap of 10 cm wide.

• After that, the film is fixed on wooden parts using staples and a construction stapler. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so that it does not tear in winter. But there is no need to leave a lot of slack, otherwise the polymer film will rustle during operation.
• The joints of adjacent elements of the waterproof layer are sealed with adhesive tape. The film must form an impermeable layer to prevent water from entering the surface of the basalt mats.
• The film should lie on the surface of the basalt insulation. If its thickness is not enough to fill the vertical space between the beams, then the membrane must be lowered down and fixed on the side surfaces of the supporting elements using wooden blocks.

1. I fasten the bars of the counter-lattice to the beams. It is necessary when you are going to lay decorative material on top (in my case, a tongue-and-groove board for the floor in the attic). It is done like this:
   • Wooden beams with a section of 5 by 5 cm are screwed onto the beams over the waterproofing. They must be placed perpendicular to the direction in which the boards will be laid. You can fix the crate with self-tapping screws.
   • To avoid warping of the coating, I recommend not to install the bars close to the walls of the attic and to each other. Small seams a few millimeters wide will help compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
2. I lay a tongue-and-groove board on top. I took this material

On this, the process of insulating the ceiling can be considered complete.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool. But there are other, cheaper ways to insulate. Instructions on how to use expanded clay for this purpose are set out in the video in this article. And how to insulate from the inside wooden ceiling(if there is no access to it from the attic), you can read in my other articles on this site.

You can leave your opinion about the information contained in the material in the comments below.

Compared to city apartments in high-rise buildings, private houses have a large area of ​​contact with the external environment, so the issue of high-quality thermal insulation is much more relevant here. About 35% of the heat escapes into the ambient air through an uninsulated ceiling if the roof and attic space are not insulated with a thermal barrier. Losing so much thermal energy for nothing is an unaffordable luxury, so we will consider the best options for thermal insulation of ceilings.

Insulation from the inside or from the side of the attic - which is preferable?

Modern building technology provide for the installation of heat-insulating layers simultaneously with the construction of the building. In this case, the most convenient and efficient insulation installation schemes are selected at the design stage, taking into account the type of ceiling, the total load on building structures, and the need for heat saving in a given climatic zone. This happens ideally if it is built new house in compliance with building requirements and regulations.

If a private building was erected a long time ago, or recently, but on its own, it is quite possible that there may not be high-quality thermal insulation, including ceiling ceilings, in the house. In such a situation, homeowners have to solve the problem of insulation on their own, choosing methods that meet the needs for saving heat, the features of the building in general and the type of floors in particular. The first question that arises on the way to solving the indicated problem is the side of the ceilings, from which it is more convenient and expedient to arrange a thermal insulation barrier.

It is possible to insulate the floors on each side, and in any case it will be correct. But when choosing a method of insulation, you need to take into account some nuances. The first one is the height of the ceilings. If the ceilings are low, and there is no desire to hide the usable space further, insulation from the attic clearly suggests itself, because the insulation layer (at least 5-6 cm) plus the finish (2-3 cm) will make the ceilings even lower. Another situation - the rooms have already been finished, the interior is decorated, and it suits the household quite well. Warming the ceiling from the inside will lead to the need to make repairs again, which is inappropriate in every respect. Here, it is also preferable to lay a heat-insulating barrier on top of the floors.

Insulating ceilings from the inside makes sense only in a situation where the house is overhaul. In this case, one of the methods of internal thermal insulation of ceilings is envisaged, which is carried out during the repair and finishing works. Although recently, homeowners increasingly prefer to insulate the ceiling from the attic. So much more convenient, less expensive and, moreover, easy. And this is a strong factor if you plan to install a heat-insulating barrier with your own hands.

There is an option to insulate the floors on both sides. So do those who want to turn housing into an impregnable fortress for the winter cold and summer heat, so that they can constantly save on energy bills.

Looking for the right material - polymers or fibers?

Now there is a sufficient choice that can be applied for our purposes. Along with the use of modern thermal insulation materials, traditional heaters are often used, which have been serving for this for more than one century. These include wood chips and sawdust, as well as materials based on them (sawdust concrete, a mixture of woodworking waste with clay). Some cover the floor of the attic with a layer of dry leaves or paws. coniferous trees. Such methods of floor insulation were used by our ancestors, but nothing prevents us from using such completely natural and often free materials in our time. Although modern technologies and materials are preferred by consumers, therefore, we will briefly consider their diversity and main characteristics.

By classifying the materials applicable for the insulation of ceilings, they can be divided into several groups:

• polymer heat insulators;
• fibrous insulation;
• sprayed materials;
• bulk substances.

Polymers include the well-known polystyrene and extruded polystyrene, which is rapidly gaining popularity, known to many under the commercial name "foam". Polyfoam is used very widely for thermal insulation purposes in construction. The popularity of the material is provided by two factors - a very affordable cost and good thermal insulation properties. A high-quality material with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3 also has sufficient hydrophobicity so that there is no need to install hydro- and vapor barriers when installing an insulating layer. Everything would be fine, but there are, the main of which is flammability, accompanied by extreme toxicity. The smoke emitted during the combustion of this polymer is capable of sending anyone who inhales it 2-3 times to the forefathers. For this reason, in many developed countries, this insulation is prohibited for thermal insulation works in residential buildings.

Penoplex is devoid of many of the shortcomings of foam. It belongs to the class of materials that do not support combustion or self-extinguishing, so its use in residential construction is not limited. In addition, polystyrene is absolutely not susceptible to moisture, is not susceptible to damage by bacterial and fungal microflora. The strength of foam is one of the highest when compared with other heat insulators, so polystyrene is often used where strength characteristics play important role(under the screed, thermal insulation of the socles of buildings, basements). In terms of thermal insulation properties, polystyrene is approximately the same as polystyrene - to create a reliable thermal barrier, a layer of insulation of 5-10 cm is sufficient (depending on the geography of the region).

Fibrous materials for thermal insulation works in construction include varieties of mineral wool. The material differs in the nature of the raw material, which is used for the manufacture of the material. All types of mineral wool are produced by melting minerals and forming fibers held together with organic adhesives. If the fibers are formed from molten glass, the result is glass wool. Slag wool is made in the same way from blast-furnace slag and other mineral waste from metallurgical production. Basalt wool, considered the highest quality material from this category, is formed by thermal action on certain types of rocks.

All fibrous heaters are made in various densities. Highest specific gravity have mats used mainly for facade thermal insulation for plastering. Such a heat insulator is strong and rigid, therefore it forms a solid surface for finishing work on it. Mineral wool of medium density is also produced in the form of mats, but the material is looser and does not have high strength. Mineral wool with the lowest specific gravity goes on sale rolled into rolls. To insulate the ceiling in the house, you can use mineral wool of medium and low density, and the first one will be more appropriate for thermal insulation from the side of the attic with cold roof, the second - for the device of a thermal barrier from the inside.

Sprayable and bulk options - there is plenty to choose from

The last word in the technology of thermal insulation of building surfaces is sprayed heat insulators. These include polyurethane foam and ecowool. The first material is a polymer, the second is made from natural raw materials (cellulose). Both heat insulators are applied to the surfaces to be insulated by spraying, although in some cases ecowool is poured into the existing gaps in a dry form, followed by tamping.

Polyurethane foam by its chemical nature, method of application and structure of the finished thermal insulation is very close to conventional mounting foam. For the preparation of a foam material with excellent adhesive properties, two components are used, which are dismounted and then applied using special equipment. The advantage of sprayed insulation is its seamlessness, which prevents the formation of cold bridges. Polyurethane foam in the polymerized (hardened) state is not combustible and has 1.3 times better thermal insulation characteristics than polystyrene. The disadvantage of the heat insulator is the gradual destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation (needs to be protected) and the impossibility of working with it with your own hands (the equipment is expensive and it is not advisable to purchase it for one-time use).

The most used loose heat insulator is expanded clay - porous granules of various fractions. The raw material for the production of expanded clay is ordinary clay, so this insulation is environmentally friendly and natural. This insulation does not burn, has moderate hygroscopicity and good thermal insulation properties. The ability to resist heat loss depends on the size of the granules - the smaller the fraction, the higher the thermal conductivity.

For insulation of the attic floor, it is advisable to use expanded clay with a fraction of 5-10 mm.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of living rooms

There are two ways to insulate floors from the inside. The first one involves the installation of heat-insulating plates or mats directly on the floor surface using glue and additional fixation with special dowels. This method is best used if a reinforced concrete slab is used as the floor. The second technology provides for the installation of a crate for subsequent sheathing with drywall sheets, plastic panels or clapboard. In this case, the insulation is laid between load-bearing elements frame. This method is feasible for any type of ceiling. Both methods give a good thermal insulation effect, although the thickness of the layer is often limited, due to the desire to save a maximum of usable space.

To implement the technology of direct installation of insulation on plates, extruded polystyrene is more often used, although mineral wool mats with a high specific gravity can also be used. Polystyrene is preferred for several reasons:

• the material is lighter, more convenient to work with during its installation;
• the thermal conductivity of polystyrene of the same thickness is about one and a half times lower than the same indicator of high-density mineral wool;
• to form finishing layers on the surface of mineral wool, you need to have the skills of such an activity, while plastering on polystyrene is no more difficult than on drywall.

In general, the installation of these heaters differs little. The only difference is in the polymer-cement mixtures used for gluing heat-insulating sheets. The sequence of actions with this method of insulation is as follows:

• we process the floor slab with a priming mixture;
• we prepare polymer cement glue (according to the instructions on the package);
• we apply the adhesive mixture on the insulation sheet (along the perimeter and in the center), after which we press the polystyrene plate to concrete surface and set in a horizontal plane;
• after the glue has set (about a day later), we additionally fix the insulation sheets with "umbrellas" - special dowels with a wide round cap.

It remains to plaster the insulation using a reinforcing mesh and apply finishing finishing layers. If the second method is used, which involves laying insulation in the gaps between the slats or profiles, we take medium or low density mineral wool as a heat-insulating material. Thermal insulation is placed between the elements of the frame and slightly fixed with bent planks of direct hangers, with which the profiles are attached to the ceiling, after which the crate is closed with sheathing.

Thermal barrier device on the attic floor - available methods

For the installation of a thermal barrier on the side of the attic, all of the materials mentioned above are applicable. If you need to hire specialized teams for insulation with ecowool or polyurethane foam, form heat-insulating layers with expanded clay, mineral wool or polymer sheet insulation will not be difficult for any home master.

If the overlap is done reinforced concrete slab, it is more expedient to use expanded clay, filling it with a layer of up to 15 cm, or lay penoplex, filling the seams between sheets of polymer insulation mounting foam. When it is better to use mineral wool, since it is similar to wood in terms of its ability to pass water vapor. Fibrous insulation is laid between the carriers wooden beams, after which a vapor barrier is arranged from the corresponding film. Then counter-rails are sewn along the beams, which will be the basis for laying the attic floor boards.

If there is free access to lumber waste, you can reduce the cost of the event as much as possible by filling the spaces between the beams with a mixture of small chips and sawdust. This method of thermal insulation will be the most environmentally friendly and natural for floors made of wood materials.

The fact that in private houses with a "cold" roof it is necessary to insulate the ceiling on the top floor, developers do not need to be persuaded. The question is different: how to make it right with your own hands, without overpaying extra money for materials. Finding out the answer will help you step by step guide outlined in this article. Here we will explain how to insulate the ceiling from the attic (or room) side and what measures to take so that there is no condensation.

The better to insulate attic floors

The range of materials for ceiling thermal insulation is so wide that it is not easy for an ordinary homeowner to make a choice. Judge for yourself:

• mineral wool based on fiberglass and basalt fiber;
• polymeric heaters - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam;
• bulk building materials - vermiculite, expanded clay;
• folk remedies - sawdust, straw or reeds (can be used mixed with clay);
• a relatively new cellulose-based insulator - ecowool.

It looks like applying ecowool

Comparing heaters, one cannot say that one is bad and the other is good. They differ greatly in properties, price and scope. An important role is played by the budget allocated by the developer for the thermal insulation of the ceilings of a private house or cottage. Therefore, it is worth considering each group of materials separately.

Mineral wool products

These porous building materials are produced in the form of plates and rolls, the density varies between 35-150 kg / m3. We list their features:

1. Basalt mineral wool does not burn at all and calmly withstands temperatures up to 600 ° C, and upon further heating it is destroyed without ignition. The heat resistance limit of glass wool is 200 ° C, so it is considered a slow-burning substance.
2. Both insulators pass water vapor well and are able to absorb moisture, as a result of which they lose their thermal insulation properties.
3. In terms of cost, cotton wool occupies a middle position between cheap polystyrene foam and more expensive polystyrene foam.
4. The thermal conductivity of mineral wool products depends on their density. The average value is 0.045 W / m ° C, this is a rather high figure.
5. Dense slabs are rarely eaten by rodents.

Basalt wool slabs

Reference. Glass wool is prohibited by regulations in most countries for indoor use, as it is unsafe for the health of residents of residential buildings. The most famous manufacturers are the brands Ursa (Ursa) and Izover (Izover).

The main scope of both types of mineral wool is wooden and frame houses. Unlike polymeric insulating materials, it allows the wood to "breathe" and not rot from moisture, as it has a high vapor permeability. At the same time, fibrous insulation requires protection from direct moisture from the outside.

Fiberglass boards and rolls can be used for insulation of ceilings from the outside, from the side of a cold attic. Stone wool can be used from the inside of buildings, but at the same time it can be hermetically covered with a vapor barrier film.

Warm polymers

By properties, this group of heaters is the exact opposite of mineral wool. Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam, well known under the name Penoplex (brand name), is capable of igniting and burning, no matter what the manufacturers claim. And only polyurethane, applied mechanically in the form of foam, can withstand fire for no longer than 30 minutes, and then collapses. At the same time, the materials practically do not let steam through and do not lose their properties when wet.

This is how polyurethane foam is sprayed

Note. Styrofoam is still permeable to moisture, although it passes it in smaller quantities than cotton wool.

The thermal insulation characteristics of polymers are the best among all heaters:

• polystyrene - 0.04 W / m ° C;
• extruded polystyrene foam - 0.035 W / m ° C;
• polyurethane foam - 0.03 W / m ° C.

Heaters are not good friends with wood, which often leads to its decay at the point of contact. Therefore, in wooden dwellings and steam rooms of baths with high humidity, their use is allowed together with an active supply and exhaust ventilation device. Best of all, materials are combined with concrete ceilings and basement ceilings.

Styrofoam is the cheapest, but inferior in durability, in addition, mice love to gnaw it. Foamed polyurethane is also inexpensive, but requires the expense of applying with specialized equipment. Expanded polystyrene occupies an average position in terms of cost, and in terms of practicality - the first. It is strong and durable, moreover, it is easily mounted on ceilings with your own hands, including from inside the premises.

Here you can see that Penoplex is simply screwed with self-tapping screws

Other heaters

We have combined these building materials into a common group according to one feature - loose structure. The indicators of their thermal conductivity are shown in the table:

Bulk heaters are popular due to their low cost (except for vermiculite) and ease of use. But one must understand that in temperate latitudes the calculated layer of the same expanded clay must be at least 40 cm, otherwise the thermal insulation will be mediocre. It is not always possible to load the ceiling with such a mass.

Straw is not inferior to polystyrene in terms of thermal conductivity, but it is stored in dry form for only a few years. To extend the service life, it is customary to mix it with clay, but then the insulating properties are reduced, as can be seen from the table. A compromise option is small sawdust, poured in a thick layer.

Reference. All organic heaters are very fond of rodents. They appear at the beginning of the cold period and make nests for the winter in a layer of sawdust or adobe.

It turns out that these budget materials can be used for floor insulation, but with reservations. Vermiculite is expensive, and it makes sense to fill up expanded clay only in the southern regions. To use sawdust, you need to take measures to combat rodents, for example, install ultrasonic repellers.

Determining the thickness of the thermal insulation

When we figured out how to insulate the ceiling, it is necessary to find out the thickness of the insulating layer. Ideally, such calculations should be performed by design engineers using a rather complex technique. It takes into account the thermal conductivity of all construction materials, up to plasterboard cladding.

We offer a simpler method that allows you to determine the thickness of the insulation with acceptable accuracy using a simple formula. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. Find out the exact thermal conductivity λ (W/m°C) of the selected material or take the value shown in the table below.
2. Refer to the building regulations for your country of residence to find out the minimum allowable heat transfer resistance R (m²°C/W) for floors in a particular region.
3. Calculate the thickness of the insulation in meters using the formula δ = R x λ.

Example. According to SNiP, floor insulation in Moscow should provide heat transfer resistance R = 4.15 m² ° C / W. If foam plastic with a thermal conductivity of λ = 0.04 W / m ° C is laid on the ceiling, a thickness of δ = 4.15 x 0.04 = 0.166 m or rounded 170 mm will be required. The thinnest layer will come out of polyurethane foam - 125 mm, and the thickest - from expanded clay (415 mm).

How to make insulation from the attic

External thermal insulation building structures is considered correct, because it eliminates the fight against condensate that can form at the junction of the ceiling material with the insulation. When the latter is located on the cold side, water vapor from the living quarters cannot get into its thickness and condense, causing mold to appear.

To block the path of a couple to the attic, the first layer in the "pie" is an ordinary dense film, as shown in the diagram. Thermal insulation is laid on top of it, and a crate is knocked out from below for interior decoration ceiling. Above the insulation, you need to make a ventilation gap (air), and then cover it with a waterproofing membrane that allows moisture to pass only in one direction - out.

Note. The gap between the insulation layer and the membrane is necessary to remove the condensate formed due to the dew point. Without ventilation, moisture will accumulate in the insulation, reducing its ability to withstand the cold. For this, natural ventilation is organized under the roof.

Ceiling insulation in the attic pitched roof performed using the following technology:

1. The vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from the bottom with brackets or with the help of battens. If the ceilings are already hemmed and lined, then lay the film on the floor of the attic, bypassing the boards, as shown in the photo above.
2. Lay between the beams a row of slab or roll insulation. If the pitch of the rafters does not match the width of the insulation, cut the latter accurately to size between the boards.
3. When it is necessary to make 2 or 3 layers, lay the plates apart (with the overlapping of the lower joints) and the beams themselves. Soft roll material do not tamp or crush, it should be completely straightened.
4. If the level of thermal insulation turned out to be lower than the roofing boards, then the ventilation air is ready. It remains to cover the entire area with a diffusion membrane, pin the bars of the counter-lattice and the boardwalk.
5. The reverse situation: the insulation is above the level of the beams. Then they need to increase wooden blocks, fixing the latter across the boards.

The device of expanded clay or sawdust insulating layer is also made using vapor barrier films. The material is poured between the beams to the calculated height, leveled and covered with a membrane. It is not necessary to compact sawdust, so as not to worsen their thermal insulation properties.

The concrete coating under the pitched roof is insulated using the same technology. The process of thermal insulation is shown in more detail in the video:

Sheathing from the inside

It is not always technically possible to independently perform external thermal insulation of coatings. There are many examples: apartments on the top floors, loggias with balconies, attics of private houses. In these cases, there is nothing left but to insulate the ceiling from the inside. So feel free to proceed with the preparation - seal all the cracks with mounting foam, treat the wood with an antiseptic, and concrete with an appropriate primer.

There are 2 ways internal insulation coatings:

1. Installation of plate material - polystyrene or basalt wool - on glue, followed by fixing with dowels, if we are talking about a concrete surface.
2. Device suspended ceilings with laying insulation under the cladding.

In the first option, mineral wool or polystyrene boards are attached to the ceiling with an adhesive mixture or mounting foam in such a way that the joints of adjacent rows do not match. After the glue hardens, each element is additionally fixed with dowels in the form of fungi, as shown in the photo. From below, the insulation is closed with vapor insulation, after which it is mounted top coat- plaster or stretch ceiling.

In the second case, a metal or wooden frame with a step of rails equal to the width of the insulation (usually 600 mm). The lower plane of the frame should be separated from the ceiling by the thickness of the insulation or be lower. Then a rolled mineral wool is taken and inserted between the slats by surprise with additional fixation with dowels, the expanded polystyrene plates sit on the glue. Next - vapor barrier and finishing.

Conclusion

Fulfilling self-insulation ceilings, it is important not to confuse vapor and waterproofing films, but put the superdiffusion membrane correctly - with the marked side up. This is the only difficult moment in the whole procedure, the rest of the work is quite simple. The last nuance: after unpacking the mineral wool roll, let it straighten out and no longer compress during installation: this is the working state of the material.

A very significant part of the heat generated in the house leaves through the cold ceiling and attic, if the ceiling does not have reliable insulation. Therefore, high-quality thermal insulation of this design is essential. Warm air always going up. And if a cold barrier is encountered on its way, it will rapidly cool down. And this means, firstly, that the heating system will partially work for the heating of an uninsulated floor that no one needs, that is, it will waste expensive energy carriers. And secondly, a meeting with a cold barrier leads to the condensation of water vapor, which is always contained in the atmosphere of the premises. Well, who likes that the ceiling is constantly wet? And this affects the durability of the finish and the overlap itself in the most negative way.

In a word, the ceiling, or rather, the ceiling between the living rooms and the cold attic, must be insulated without fail. Moreover, if earlier it was problematic to find a suitable material, today the market offers a very wide range of different heaters for “different tastes and wallets”.

To begin with, in the table we present some of the main characteristics of the heaters listed above:

Insulation name	Thermal conductivity, W/m×K	Flammability group	Environmental friendliness of the material
glass wool	0.038÷0.046	NG - G3	contain phenol-formaldehyde resins
Basalt wool	0.035÷0.042
slag wool	0.046÷0.050
Cork slabs	0.03÷0.05	NG	natural
Ecowool	0.038÷0.045	G3-G4	natural
linen mats	0.037÷0.04	G4	natural
Thermal insulation peat blocks	0.052÷0.064	G3-G4	natural
Foam glass	0.045÷0.07	NG	natural
	0.032÷0.035	G1-G3	capable of releasing toxic substances, especially during thermal decomposition
Sprayed polyurethane foam	0.028÷0.030	G2	source components may be hazardous before they are mixed, foamed and polymerized
Expanded clay	0.16	NG	natural
Slag	0.29 - boiler room; 0.15 - granulated	NG	may contain substances hazardous to human health
Sawdust	0.06÷0.08	G4	natural

Mineral wool

Mineral wool can be made from different materials - these are basalt rocks, glass raw materials and slag. Materials have different characteristics, therefore, products made from them differ from each other in some parameters.

Mineral wool of any type is produced in mats and slabs with different densities, and the spread is very large: from 25 to 200 kg / m³. Products of low density are mainly used for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. More dense options are produced in slabs and are suitable for insulating facades, roofs, floors, etc. For thermal insulation of the ceiling (that is, the attic floor), it is absolutely not necessary to chase the increased density.

Basalt (stone) wool

This type of material has the best performance of all mineral wools. True, it costs more.

You may be interested in information about which insulation has

Stone wool is made from the melt of rocks of the gabbro-basalt group. Microscopic fibers are pulled out of the molten mass, from which mats and slabs are then formed.

Due to the special processing of high-quality products, they have a low moisture absorption coefficient, sometimes reaching almost complete hydrophobicity. This suggests that the insulation does not lose its thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.

High-quality basalt wool withstands high temperatures. Many products are completely non-combustible, that is, they belong to the NG group. The advantage is the increased flexibility and elasticity of the fibers. It is easier to work with such material, and there is practically no tendency to shrink in high-quality basalt wool.

The disadvantages of this material include the content of phenolic resins, which serve as a binder for the fibers. If a decision is made to purchase such a heater, then you should pay attention to products labeled "ECO". Such materials, of course, have a higher cost, but the manufacturer guarantees their environmental friendliness, since acrylic resins that are harmless to humans act as a binder for fibers.

glass wool

For the manufacture of glass wool, cullet, sand, soda, limestone and borax are used - all of them are safe for human health and the environment. These components also melt, turn into fibers. However, the same phenol-formaldehyde resins act as binders for them, which is one of the "minuses" of this material. Moreover, the evaporation of these substances can occur throughout the operation of the insulation.

Glass fibers are much more fragile than basalt fibers. They can cause superficial damage to the skin, enter the respiratory tract, and pose a danger to the mucous membranes, especially if it comes into contact with the eyes. Therefore, when installing glass wool insulation, you should always use protective equipment for open areas of the body (overalls), eyes (glasses) and respiratory organs (respirator).

The positive characteristics of this material, made without violating the technology, include the following qualities:

• Relatively high fire resistance.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• Frost resistance.
• Inert to the effects of chemicals.
• Affordable price - glass wool will always be cheaper than a basalt counterpart with the same performance characteristics.

In terms of thermal insulation qualities, glass wool sometimes even surpasses its basalt "brother". But due to insufficient elasticity and strength of the fibers, it is still subject to shrinkage, which reduces the heat-insulating properties of the material. It also has worse indicators of hygroscopicity, that is, it is much easier to wet the insulation layer.

slag wool

Slag is produced from blast-furnace slag. The material consists of fibers (again, drawn from the melt), slag dust and solid particles, although the presence of the latter indicates a low quality insulation.

Since waste from metallurgical production is used, it is completely possible that slag wool may contain substances hazardous to humans. In addition, such a "chemical bouquet" can lead to the rapid development of corrosion on metal structural elements in contact with the insulating material.

To date, this insulation in individual construction is practically not used. Too many risks that don't justify at all affordable price. Yes, and there are enough other significant shortcomings:

• High hygroscopicity - slag wool absorbs moisture well.
• Over time, the material shrinks strongly, while its thermal insulation qualities decrease.
• The presence in the composition of the material is not only formaldehyde binders, but also other substances hazardous to human health.
• The material is brittle, the fibers are prickly, that is, slag is also very uncomfortable to use.

So, the best choice see basalt wool. However, high-quality glass wool products (in many of them its shortcomings are minimized) are also well suited for floor insulation. It is better not to even consider slag wool as a possible option at all.

With all the advantages of mineral wool, it also has a serious "minus"

Although very often manufacturers claim that mineral wool does not attract rodents, it is impossible to agree with this. Mice feel great both in basalt and glass wool, and in slag insulation. They equip nests in the slabs and gnaw through passages, and this happens especially often if the insulation is in a closed state. This means that some protective measures will have to be taken, for example, to surround the thermal insulation layer around the perimeter with a fine metal mesh, in order to basically exclude the possibility of mice penetrating into it.

Cork slabs

Slabs made of natural cork (agglomerate) can be called a unique material. They are made from cork oak bark, and natural wood adhesives serve as a binder for crushed crumbs. They are activated during the processing of raw materials under certain conditions of temperature and pressure (pressing). Therefore, cork boards can be safely attributed to environmentally friendly heaters.

Due to the peculiarities of natural raw materials, the heat insulator has excellent performance characteristics, namely:

The disadvantage of this material, perhaps, can be called only one factor - this is its cost, which significantly exceeds the price of mineral wool of any type.

Ecowool

Ecowool is made from cellulose fibers, as well as from waste paper and cardboard production. This material goes on sale in packages - in bulk or in the form of molded plates. fixed size.

The loose version of the material is used in a dry form for filling the cavities left for insulation, or in a moistened one, using the spraying method. The most convenient and cheaper installation of plate material, since the process of insulation does not require additional equipment.

The advantages of ecowool-based insulation materials include the following qualities:

• Relatively high level of soundproofing.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• High vapor permeability, which means that moisture will not linger in the insulation layers, subject to the laying rules.
• The material creates a monolithic seamless coating, which eliminates the occurrence of "cold bridges".
• Quite affordable price.

Ecowool also has its disadvantages:

• High level hygroscopicity.
• Over time, the thermal insulation qualities of the material decrease due to its shrinkage. Therefore, from time to time it may be necessary to add ecowool to the original layer.
• The complexity of applying ecowool in a “wet” way, since this purpose requires special equipment and skills to work with it.
• Ecowool is treated for the excessive flammability inherent in cellulose. But it is still impossible to call it a completely non-combustible material.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene is a modern board material, which can have different thicknesses and densities. This insulation is used for both internal and external insulation of residential and non-residential buildings.

The insulation consists of 98% air, therefore it has very high thermal insulation capabilities.

The advantages of this material include its following qualities:

• Low thermal conductivity, one of the lowest among all heaters in general.
• Ease of processing and installation, along with high strength and form stability throughout the entire service life.
• Long service life without loss thermal insulation properties.
• Almost complete absence of moisture absorption.
• As part of quality material flame retardant additives are introduced that prevent the fire of expanded polystyrene in extreme situations.
• Chemical stability, resistance to biological damage.

The disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam include:

• With prolonged exposure to an open flame, the plates still ignite and melt, and the molten mass is able to spread, spreading fire. But even worse, when burned, extremely toxic, deadly smoke is released.
• Extruded polystyrene foam is not vapor-permeable, that is, it is not a "breathable" material. This should be taken into account when planning the "warming pie".

Let's clarify one point: the article deliberately does not consider the "close relative" of extruded polystyrene foam, namely, ordinary white foam. Just for the reason that it has much more serious shortcomings, and using foam plastic for internal insulation of a house or apartment is a very risky business. Extruded polystyrene foam is still much safer.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

This insulation is made directly in the process of its application with special equipment by mixing two initial components. These components, when mixed, react, resulting in the formation of a foamy substance. It is sprayed onto the surface in a relatively thin layer and begins to expand, filling all the surrounding free space, forming a monolithic coating.

After expansion, the solidification phase begins, and a durable thermal insulation coating is obtained, which is a homogeneous porous mass with isolated gas-filled cells.

Polyurethane foam is one of the most effective, reliable and durable insulation. Talks about it whole line its merits:

• Very low thermal conductivity. And the solidity of the applied layer eliminates the occurrence of "cold bridges".
• Fairly high strength of the solidified layer at a low specific density.
• Complete resistance to moisture - the material is impervious to neither water nor water vapor.
• High adhesive ability with almost any building materials.
• High soundproof qualities.
• The material does not settle and does not lose its thermal insulation qualities over time.
• High speed of thermal insulation work on structures of any complexity.

Disadvantages of sprayed polyurethane foam:

• The material is not "breathable", but in some cases this can be regarded as a positive quality.
• Low resistance to ultraviolet radiation - insulation requires unconditional protection from sunlight.
• Combustibility of the material during prolonged exposure to open flame. True, its rapid self-extinguishing is observed if the source of the flame is removed. In addition, the material does not flow when exposed to fire, and charring upper layers prevents further spread of the fire.
• The very high cost of the material, taking into account the invitation of the master with the equipment. Disposable kits for self-application have appeared on sale, but their price so far seems to be frighteningly high.

Expanded clay

One of the options for ceiling insulation is the use of expanded clay of various fractions. This natural material, produced from clay, by its special heat treatment.

Expanded clay has a number positive qualities:

• Ecological purity. The material does not contain or emit toxic substances.
• Relatively low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay throughout the entire period of operation does not lose its thermal insulation qualities.
• Good soundproofing ability.
• Low moisture absorption.
• High vapor permeability.
• Expanded clay refers to non-combustible materials.
• High frost resistance.
• Inertness to temperature changes.
• The biological stability of the material, that is, pathogenic microflora does not form on it, rodents bypass it.
• Ease of use.

But, despite the numerous advantages, expanded clay has its drawbacks:

• In terms of thermal insulation, it is almost three times inferior to modern heaters such as mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. That is, for a full-fledged, high-quality insulation of the floor, a very thick layer of expanded clay is required, which is not always possible.
• Since expanded clay will require a lot, this can lead to a significant increase in the cost of the floor insulation project. Moreover, also taking into account the transportation of large volumes of material and lifting them to a height.
• The material is loose and rather dusty, especially if a grade with a small expanded clay fraction is used. This affects the design of the "warming pie".

Sawdust

Wood sawdust is one of the oldest insulating materials for thermal insulation of private houses. The thermal conductivity of sawdust is perhaps somewhat higher than that of modern materials, however, the combination of all characteristics often looks more advantageous than the use of synthetic insulation.

So, sawdust has both positive and negative qualities. The first features include the following:

• Affordable material cost. Sometimes it even comes for free.
• Low thermal conductivity, although a thicker layer of material will have to be laid for sufficient thermal insulation.
• Excellent vapor permeability. Sawdust is a "breathing" heat insulator that does not retain moisture. They have unique properties to absorb excess moisture, and with a decrease in air humidity - to give it to environment.
• Long service life. Properly prepared sawdust will serve as a heat insulator for 50 years or more.
• Ecological purity of the material.

The disadvantages of sawdust insulation include its following characteristics:

• Flammability. However, if a wooden house is insulated with them, it in itself has the same characteristic. When burning, sawdust does not produce toxic smoke.
• The need for special treatment to prevent biological degradation or damage to the material. That is, sawdust will last for a long time without losing the original thermal insulation qualities only if they are properly prepared.

Ceiling insulation with sawdust is done in three ways:

Backfilling of floor cavities with sawdust treated with boric acid, lime, antiseptics and flame retardants;

Filling with a solution of sawdust of gypsum, cement, clay or PVA glue;

Formation of sawdust and clay insulation boards.

In any case, it will take a lot of time for high-quality insulation with sawdust. Such laboriousness often scares off the owners of private houses, and they prefer easier installation finished materials.

Installation of different types of insulation for thermal insulation of the ceiling

As mentioned above, there are plate, roll, backfill and sprayed heaters. Some of them are used in very similar technology. Therefore, this process will be considered in this way.

The use of slab and roll insulation

If a slab or roll insulation is selected, then during the work, the following scheme is usually followed. However, the use of mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam has its own nuances, since the materials differ in their density and rigidity.

The layout of materials for insulating the ceiling from the attic side is as follows:

1. Cover beams.
2. Windproof membrane.
3. Warming material.
4. Vapor barrier membrane.

The process of warming step by step is as follows:

• If mineral wool slabs or rolls, linen slabs or other vapor-permeable material are used, then the first step is to cover the floor surface with a vapor barrier membrane.

The material bends around the floor beams and freely lays between them, then it is attached to the wood with a stapler and staples. The vapor barrier will protect the insulation from evaporation from the premises of the house - there the pressure of water vapor is always higher, especially in the cold season. When laying the membrane, it is necessary to focus on the markings on the film. The manufacturer indicates which side it should be laid down.

The membrane is laid in strips with an overlap of 100 mm between them. Sealed along the joint line with moisture-resistant adhesive tape.

• In the case of using foam plastic for insulation (although, to be honest, it’s better not to use it at all) or extruded polystyrene foam, you will have to level the surface between the floor beams for its installation - usually a rough ceiling filing is stuffed. If the mineral wool takes the form of a base due to its elasticity, then the rigid foam boards will simply break when pressed on them. That is why the base must be even. Under extruded polystyrene foam, in fact, vapor barrier can not be laid at all, since it is vapor-tight, non-hygroscopic, that is, it does not absorb vapors and moisture.
• The next step is to lay a slab or roll insulation on the vapor barrier film between the floor beams.

Installation of slab or roll insulation is a simple process. Usually, such a step between the balls (lags) is already provided in advance so that the plates or rolls are stacked at a distance.

If styrofoam or other rigid boards are being laid, they should be cut exactly the width of the step between the beams or a little less. If, after the installation of this insulation, gaps remain between the beams and slabs (and this, one way or another, cannot be avoided), they must be filled with mounting foam.

• After laying the insulation, the entire surface of the attic floor is covered with a windproof membrane, which is fixed with brackets on the beams.
• Further, if it is planned to equip the floor in the attic, a compressed or plywood flooring is laid on top of the wind protection. At the same time, it is desirable to leave a ventilation gap so that it is easier for moisture from the insulation to evaporate into the atmosphere.

• When using insulation with a foil layer, resistance to heat loss will be increased. In this case, the insulation is laid with the foil side down.
• If the floor beams are recessed in the backfill, then logs are fixed perpendicular to them with a step "in the light" of about 550 mm. After that, a vapor barrier is fixed on the surface, and then a heater is laid.

It is not necessary to install thermal insulation from the side of the attic, although it is probably easier this way. Sometimes the installation of the "insulation pie" is also carried out from the side of the room. But the arrangement of the membranes is preserved. That is, after laying the insulation, it must be tightened with a vapor barrier from below, and only then the ceiling is filed. This will be discussed in detail below.

Laying backfill thermal insulation

In order to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic with backfill material, it is necessary to prepare the base.

There are two ways to prepare the bases:

Lay a material that will keep the filling insulation in the required area, preventing it from getting into the gaps between the boards of the rough ceiling sheathing;

Cover the gaps between the boards, as well as between the boards and floor beams with a solution of clay and lime.

The second option requires more time to work, but the amount allocated for the covering material will be saved.

Roofing material, glassine or the same vapor barrier membrane can be used as a covering for loose insulation. The canvases are overlapped by 100 ÷ 150 mm, and glued with a wide moisture-resistant adhesive tape. If roofing material is used, then its joints are glued bituminous mastic.

If a backfill material such as sawdust is chosen, then the preparation of the base for it should be done by smearing with a clay-lime mixture. For ecowool, it would be better to use a vapor barrier membrane.

When filling the ceiling with ecowool, it must be well tamped, otherwise it will shrink over time.

When the ceiling is completely filled with insulation, the entire surface is covered with a diffuse membrane, so that moisture from above (for example, when the roof leaks) does not enter the heat-insulating layer, but can freely evaporate from it. Again, it is recommended to leave a ventilation gap.

Well, then the attic floor is laid.

Sometimes, in those cases when the attic does not become an exploitable space, and there is no doubt about the reliability of the roofing, they do without the upper membrane at all, and even without the boardwalk too.

Video: insulation of the ceiling of a private house with expanded clay

Warming the ceiling from the inside of the house - step by step

It is clear that it is more convenient to perform floor insulation from the side of the attic. But it also happens that the roof slopes are located at a very slight angle, and there is no possibility of free work in the attic.

For example, the process of such insulation will be shown step by step - from the side of the room. However, some processes may still require penetration under the roof. How in this case the master solved this problem will also be presented in the instructions for laying the insulation.

To begin with, it is worth determining the list of everything necessary for the work:

• Warming material. In this case, this is Izover Profi mineral wool in a roll, but a slab version can also be purchased.
• Windproof membrane "Izover".
• Vapor barrier membrane "Izover".
• Bar with a section of 50 × 50 mm.
• Boards 120 × 15 mm for lathing under the ceiling sheathing.
• Antiseptic impregnation for wood processing.
• Nylon or polypropylene twine.
• Material for outer skin- drywall, wall paneling, Qwick Deck boards, etc.
• Self-tapping screws of different lengths.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Scaffolding or a reliable stable ladder (goats).
• Stapler and staples.
• Building level.
• Stationery knife.
• Respirator to protect the respiratory tract, gloves and clothing that completely covers the surface of the skin.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	So, in a room of 9 m², it is necessary to equip and insulate the ceiling. As you can see in the photo, so far only floor beams made of 200 × 50 mm boards are fixed on the Mauerlat.
	To perform the work, you will need a beam with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. The beam must be even and clean. Therefore, if black stains of mold are found on its surface, it is recommended to clean them, for example, using an electric planer.
	Then the wooden parts are treated with an antiseptic solution - flame retardant. It is best to use solutions that have a kind of tinting - then the treated areas will be immediately visible. It is convenient to cover the beam with an antiseptic by laying the parts in a row. Having applied the composition to one side of the wood, the bars are turned with the other side - and so on until all the material has been processed.
	The next step along the perimeter of the ceiling, under the floor beams, on the end of the Mauerlat, the prepared timber is fixed.
	Further, for the convenience of laying a windproof film, temporary retaining boards are laid on top of the floor beams. They are not fixed, as they will move. A windproof membrane is laid on top of the boards. In this case, the hydro-wind barrier "Isover HB Light" was chosen.
	The membrane is first fixed on the extreme beams, as well as on the end boards (Mauerlat) installed on the concrete wall framing. Fixation is carried out using a stapler and staples. Adjacent membrane sheets are overlapped by 150 mm.
	Further, the work is carried out from the side of the attic, since it is necessary to fix the wind protection to the upper ends of the floor beams. For the safety of movement along the beams, the master laid the membrane on top perpendicular to the beams support boards 150÷170 mm wide and 25 mm thick.
	The next step, the previously fixed bars framing the ceiling, must be supplemented with the crossbars of the crate. They sort of line up in a frame. These lintels will be a good support for blocks of mineral wool when they are laid between the beams, and subsequently serve as a crate for the ceiling sheathing. The step is chosen so that the strips of insulation fit snugly between the crossbars. That is, since a roll with a width of 600 mm is used, then there should be approximately 550 mm between the bars in the light.
	As a heater, the master chose Isover Profi mineral wool, which is sold in a roll. Material thickness - 100 mm. It is more convenient to purchase heat-insulating material in a roll because plates of the required width can be cut from it. Thus, less waste can be obtained.
	The first step in working with insulation is to cut strips from it to close the gaps between the Mauerlat and the windproof membrane around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. The width of the strips should be 40÷50 mm.
	Further, the mineral wool is cut from a roll into slabs of the required length and, if necessary, width. Calculations carried out in advance showed that a layer of insulation of 200 mm would be required. This was provided - the height of the boards of the floor beams is just 200 mm, that is, two layers of insulation 100 mm thick will be required.
	Prepared fragments of mineral wool are placed between the floor beams. Each layer is carefully distributed in space and gently pressed against the windproof membrane.
	Then the second layer of insulation is laid below. At the same time, the place where blocks of mineral wool of the upper layer were joined is covered with a whole slab in the lower one.
	To speed up the work, you can immediately form a 200 mm mat from two pieces of insulation with a thickness of 100 mm and lay it under the crossbeams from the timber, fixed on the floor beams.
	However, do not forget that when laying the insulation in this way, it is necessary that the joints of the plates of the upper and lower layers are separated from each other by about 250 ÷ 300 mm. Such an arrangement will completely remove the question of possible "cold bridges" in the insulation layer.
	If there are a lot of scraps left, then you can collect the inner (upper) layer from them, and make the bottom one from whole pieces.
	So that the insulation does not sag down between the jumper bars, it should be reinforced with plastic twine, fixing it on the ends of the floor beams with a stapler and staples.
	For this purpose, ordinary inexpensive, for example, nylon or polypropylene twine is used. It will take quite a lot, since the lowest layer of insulation has yet to be tied up. Sparing the twine is not recommended. Let everything be safe.
	The last, outer layer of heat-insulating material is mounted along the stuffed bars Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of the beam, that is, 50 mm. To do this, cut plates with a thickness of 100 mm must be divided into two in thickness. Here, laying each slab, it must immediately be fixed with twine, shooting it to the bars.
	Further, the thermal insulation structure should be closed from below with a layer of reliable vapor barrier material so that moisture from inside the house does not penetrate into the insulation. Do not confuse this material with a windproof membrane! It is important here that a reliable barrier be put up for the couple. If moisture accumulates inside the mineral wool, it will lose its thermal insulation qualities. Yes, and rehydration. wooden parts construction does not work for them.
	The master uses a vapor barrier membrane "Isover VS 80". It will be more convenient to work if you choose a material equipped with an adhesive strip, which makes it easier to bond two adjacent canvases. The adhesive strip is covered with a protective film, which is removed before bonding the sheets.
	After the second canvas is overlapped with the first one to the width, usually indicated on the canvas itself by a line, the edge of the first canvas is removed protective film. After that, it is enough to run your hand along the junction of the canvases so that they are securely connected to each other.
	If the connection does not seem strong enough, it can be glued with tape. For this purpose, it is best to use reinforced plumbing tape, which is moisture resistant and has good adhesion to almost any surface. In any case, it keeps perfectly on any membranes.
	The membrane is cut out according to the size of the ceiling and fixed on three sides. Then, holding the canvas with a piece metal profile or building level, the membrane is tightened and fixed on the bar finally with the help of staples.
	For the convenience of working at heights, it is recommended to use reliable scaffolding or goats. If you work with them, both hands of the master remain free, and it is also possible to cover a fairly large work area. With an ordinary stepladder, you can suffer a lot.
	When fixing the last side of the vapor barrier material, it is better not to stretch it, but to assemble it into an “accordion” in order to compensate for the linear expansion of the material when temperatures change. In order for the "accordion" to be held in the required position, it should be fixed with tape.
	The joint between the wall and the vapor barrier should be glued with sealant. To do this, the edge of the canvas is lifted up, a sealant is applied to the wall, then the edge of the material is lowered and pressed against the wall.
	The main task of using a sealant is to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation during the operation of the premises. The remaining folded-down edge of the vapor barrier can then be joined to the wall vapor barrier if required.
	Further, on top of the vapor barrier to the bars, perpendicular to them, batten boards are attached for subsequent ceiling cladding. In this case, the step between them is 600 mm, but if desired, they can be installed more often, depending on the chosen decorative material. Self-tapping screws, of course, will make holes in the vapor barrier, but boards firmly pressed in these places to the bars will not allow steam to penetrate into the insulation. If the vapor barrier film was accidentally pierced during work, then the hole should be immediately sealed with sanitary tape.
	The result of the work done was a membrane-covered insulation on both sides, enclosed between the floor beams and supported by the batten boards. Boards stuffed from below are not only a frame for finishing the ceiling. They also set the necessary ventilation gap between the vapor barrier membrane and the finishing layer. If this is not foreseen, condensate may begin to accumulate on the surface of the ceiling.
	Ceiling sheathing can be made with drywall or clapboard. But in this case, the master chose moisture-resistant Quick Deck sheets. To fasten the sheets, it is necessary to choose self-tapping screws of such length that they do not pierce through the boards of the crate and do not break through the vapor barrier. For the convenience of fixing the sheathing on the crate, it is recommended to pre-bait self-tapping screws along the edges of the plate.
	Before attaching the skin, do not forget to run the electrical cable for the ceiling lighting fixture. It must be insulated in a special corrugated tube. Further, the sheets are fixed to the boards of the crate with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the material of the plates to a small depth (about 1 mm). This is easily solved correct adjustment screwdriver tightening torque (ratchet).
	It is necessary to leave a small gap between the wall and the cladding plates for the thermal expansion of the material when the room temperature and humidity change. If necessary, additional marking, cutting and fitting of sheets is carried out.
	Quick Deck panels are equipped with a tongue and groove lock, so when they are installed, the connection is tight and even. In this case, the lock itself provides for a temperature gap. First, the plates are tacked in several places, and then fixed with capital additional self-tapping screws.

Thanks to precise markings and well-fitted details, the ceiling turned out to be even and neat. Further? the surface is puttied and painted or pasted over with a decorative material. But this is already Finishing work, but with the insulation of the ceiling, we, in fact, have already completely figured out.

As you can see from the description presented, it is quite possible to perform ceiling insulation on your own, without involving professional builders. True, working extremely carefully, with exact observance of the sequence of mounting layers of the common “pie” /

And we still have one more important question left unanswered - what is the thickness of a sufficient layer of insulation? We will consider it in the appendix to the article.

APPENDIX: What thickness of ceiling insulation is required?

To determine this parameter, you will have to make a small thermal calculation. You should not be immediately afraid of this - with our calculator it will not be difficult to perform the necessary calculations.

The calculation itself is based on the fact that the total thermal resistance of the ceiling structure under a cold attic (or without it at all, for example, when flat roof) must not be less than the normalized value established by SNiP. And this total resistance is the sum of the indicators of each of the layers of the structure. Thus, knowing the materials of manufacture and thermal conductivity indicators, having a clear plan for further sheathing of the ceiling and attic floor, it is easy to calculate which layer and which insulation will provide the required thermal resistance value.

And the normalized value of heat transfer resistance can be found for your region from the proposed map-scheme. A small nuance: for walls, ceilings and coatings it is different - therefore, the values ​​\u200b\u200bin the diagram are highlighted in different colors. In this case, we are interested in "for floors" - these indicators are highlighted in blue.

We will not overload the reader with formulas, but rather we will immediately offer an online calculator. Directly below it will be given a number of explanations, possibly necessary for a quick and accurate calculation.

Ceilings in private houses are usually made of wood: beams are laid, and then they are knocked out from below with a board. If the house does not have a heated attic, the ceiling in the building must be insulated. Yes, and when equipping a living room in the attic, laying a floor with something will not hurt. After all, most, among other things, can also serve as excellent sound insulators.

Material selection

So, let's see how to insulate the house. And first, let's figure out which type of insulator is best to choose in a particular case. Typically, floors in suburban buildings are insulated:

• mineral wool;
• polystyrene foam;
• sawdust;
• expanded clay.

Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

This heat insulator is currently the most popular and is used most often in private homes. Its main advantages include:

• Low cost.
• Ease of installation.
• High heat-preserving qualities.
• Insulation of the ceiling in the house with this material allows, among other things, to improve the soundproofing properties of the floors.
• Durability.
• Fire resistance.

The disadvantages of this material include:

• The ability to accumulate moisture and at the same time lose some of its thermal insulation qualities.
• Not too high degree of environmental cleanliness.

Styrofoam

This material is also an excellent answer to the question of how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. It is a lightweight environmentally friendly plate. Although they are made using a slightly different technology, they look very similar to the well-known foam plastic. They differ from the latter in that they practically do not crumble and retain heat much better. Expanded polystyrene serves much longer than polystyrene. Unlike mineral wool, this material is not afraid of moisture at all. Its main advantage over the basalt insulator is its smaller thickness with the same heat-preserving qualities.

Its disadvantages include only a rather high cost and flammability. In addition, it is strongly not recommended to use this material if there are rodents in the house. Mice simply love to make passages and holes in foamy materials.

Expanded clay

This material is also very often used to insulate a wooden ceiling in a private house. Expanded clay is a special porous granules made from clay. The material is very inexpensive and retains heat well. Its main advantage is that it can last much longer than any other insulation. Not afraid of expanded clay and water. In addition, it is very durable and fire resistant.

Sawdust

The main advantages of this bulk material absolute ecological cleanliness and low weight are considered. Ceiling insulation with sawdust is very inexpensive. At sawmills, this material is sold literally for a penny, and sometimes even given away for free. The disadvantages of sawdust include, first of all, a very high degree of fire risk. In addition, they can dry out or begin to rot. As with Styrofoam, mice or rats can get into them.

Insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house with mineral wool

When insulating the ceiling from the attic side, this material is laid as follows:

• In a building under construction, the ceiling itself is stuffed onto the beams from below. edged board. If the house is old and there are already floors in the attic, a cellular frame should be mounted on them.
• A vapor barrier is laid between the beams. You can use either polyethylene or foil material. The latter option is more expensive, but performs its function much better. In addition, the foil is able to reflect heat back into the room. Therefore, such materials, in addition to everything else, are also able to additionally retain heat. On the existing attic floors in old houses, the vapor barrier is laid before installing the frame under the slabs.
• At the next stage, the mineral wool itself is mounted. They lay her down. That is, the step between the beams should be slightly less than the width of the plates. This allows you to arrange the most effective insulation. You need to start laying cotton wool from the corner farthest from the door. In order to make it convenient to walk on the floor, it is worth laying the attic with strips of plywood.
• A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the mineral wool if the attic is not supposed to be insulated in the future. If the roof is waterproofed with a film, this stage can be skipped.
• Next, the finishing floor of the attic is stuffed.

In exactly the same way, a wooden ceiling is insulated in a brick or poured concrete. If there is a chimney in the attic, the plates are superimposed on it to a height of 40-50 cm and fixed.

Mounting from the inside

Next, let's see how to insulate the wooden ceiling in the house with mineral wool from the side of the living room. Most often, the material in this case is installed simultaneously with the pre-assembled metal carcass under drywall. The distance between its constituent profiles is usually 40 cm. Mineral wool slabs have a width of 50-120 cm. Therefore, installation is carried out using the "accordion" method. Cotton wool is simply slipped under the frame elements. In this case, the plates are installed close to each other. Fulfilling this work, you should try not to crush the material. Otherwise, wool will lose some of its performance characteristics.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation from the inside continues with the installation of a vapor barrier film. Next, the GCR itself is installed on the frame. In the event that the installation of false ceilings will not be carried out, the work is performed using a slightly different technology:

• Previously, the ceiling is covered with a vapor barrier film. If there is no attic above, it is better to use a waterproofing membrane.
• Further on it is stuffed wooden crate. For its manufacture, bars with a section of 30 * 30 - 40 * 40 mm are used. In this case, the step between the elements of the frame is made in such a way that the plates lie flat.
• At the next stage, mineral wool is inserted between the bars. In the event that the crate was installed correctly, the plates will hold up well and just like that. However, in order to completely eliminate the risk of falling out, it is worth additionally fixing them with special fungal dowels.
• Next, it is stretched onto the frame. It needs to be nailed with slats with a thickness of three centimeters or more. Thus, an additional ventilation layer will be arranged.
• At the next stage, the ceiling is usually sheathed with plywood and glued with ceiling tiles.

Styrofoam installation

Now let's figure out how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house using another modern material. Usually, expanded polystyrene is laid in the attic in the same way as mineral wool - between beams or in a crate. However, it is quite allowed to mount it directly on the attic floors, if any, that is, without installing the frame. In this case, the base must be carefully cleaned of dirt and leveled. Further work is done like this:

• They check that the floor boards have not rotted or come off.
• Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Fastening is carried out on staplers.
• From the corner farthest from the door, they begin to lay out the expanded polystyrene plates. At the same time, make sure that the joints do not converge in a cross. That is, they perform laying apart.
• The joints between the plates are sealed with mounting foam and additionally glued with construction tape.
• Since the plates are a rather fragile material, they are either stuffed with a board or poured over them. cement screed 3-4 cm. In the first case, before laying polystyrene foam on the floors, you will need to fill a few lags.

Using Styrofoam from the Inside

Insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house in this case is carried out as follows:

• The ceiling is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, old plaster (if any), etc.
• After that, it should be primed.
• Further on the ceiling - using foam glue - expanded polystyrene plates are glued. In this case, the material should also be additionally fixed with "fungi".
• A reinforcing mesh is glued on top of the plates.
• Next, the ceiling is plastered.

Of course, you can mount polystyrene foam in the same way as mineral wool, that is, in a crate. In this case, the ceiling at the final stage is sheathed with plywood, clapboard or edged board.

We insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with expanded clay

In this case, the space between the floor beams is pre-covered with roofing felt. You can also use a very thick plastic film. should cover the beams themselves as well. The seams on the roofing material are glued with bituminous mastic, on the film - with adhesive tape. Around the attic waterproofing material must be raised to the height of the future backfill layer.

Next, the ceiling is actually insulated with expanded clay. Sometimes the roofing material is pre-coated with a clay solution. The thickness of the expanded clay layer is usually 12-16 cm. It is desirable to use a material having different fractions of granules. In this case, the insulating layer will be more dense and even. Sometimes, to enhance the thermal insulation effect, crushed foam is added to expanded clay.

From above, the heat insulator is covered with a waterproofing film. Further arranged concrete screed 4-5 cm thick. 20 days after pouring, you can proceed to fine finish gender.

Insulation with sawdust

For such a material, cement is usually used as a binder. In order to prevent the appearance of rodents, a little lime can also be added to the sawdust. Rotting is prevented by using borax.

As with expanded clay insulation, the attic floors in this case are first covered with roofing felt or plastic wrap. You can also use sheet parchment.

The following requirements are imposed on the sawdust itself:

• They must be aged for at least a year.
• The material must be dry.
• It is not allowed to insulate the ceiling with sawdust, rotten or infected insects.
• It is best to use sawdust of medium fraction.

After the attic floors are prepared and waterproofed, they proceed to the actual preparation of the insulation solution itself. To do this, ten buckets of sawdust take one bucket of cement and half a bucket of lime. In addition, a glass of borax is diluted in a bucket of water and this solution is sprayed from a watering can over the mixture. The amount of water depends on the moisture content of the sawdust. Usually you have to add 5-10 liters.

The chimney must be laid before laying this type of insulation. Wiring in the attic in this case is pulled in special metal pipes. It is not necessary to do a screed over sawdust insulation. The hardened mixture itself will be strong enough.

So, now you know how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. If the work will be done from the inside - use thinner polystyrene foam. When insulating from the side of the attic, it is better to take mineral wool. You can save money by using expanded clay or sawdust.