Well      03/05/2020

Homemade chair vise. Do-it-yourself machine vice. Making a carpenter's vice

If you need a compact vise to perform certain jobs, it is not at all necessary to buy them in a store - they are easy to make with your own hands from improvised materials. For a better and more reliable fixation of parts on the vise jaws, pieces of a flat file or plates of hardened steel with notches can be welded.

To make a simple homemade vice, you will need the following materials: a steel square with sides of 40 mm and a length of 12-15 cm, two pieces of plate, a stud of suitable length, one bearing, as well as a hexagon, a strip and a nut. Many of necessary materials found in every garage or home workshop, so homemade costs are minimal.

We make homemade vise: the progress of work

We apply a piece of strip to the steel square, mark it, after which we make a small indentation - “ seat" for her. In the strip itself, you need to drill two holes for fastening to the table. Then, in one of the plates, we make a U-shaped cutout along the thickness of the steel square. We weld the bearing to the same plate in the center.

We grind one end of the stud into a cone, and weld a hexagon to the other. On one side of the square, it is necessary to weld a nut into which we screw the stud, and insert its truncated end into the bearing. We weld the second plate to the free edge of the steel square. All places of welding are well cleaned with a grinder.


Summing up

It's so easy to make compact homemade vices from improvised materials that will be useful in the garage and home workshop. Step by step process production, see the video on our website.

A carpentry vice in a home workshop is simply an indispensable thing for those who are engaged in manufacturing wooden structures and carving. Thanks to them, it will be much more convenient to process certain workpieces. It is best to do this, also using a special workbench.

Of course, you can also process the sides or end of the board with clamps pressed against the bar. But the work will be much easier if you make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands.

Finished product design

You can make your own carpentry vise or purchase it at specialized retail outlets. The purchased product is a case with a movable bar. It moves along two guides, and the base is a place for screwing nuts or bolts to the vise.

It is possible to fix all kinds of wooden, plastic or metal linings on the sponges. They are needed in order to protect the workpiece from damage. It is especially desirable to set this if you are working with soft types of wood.

Shop vices are able to fix workpieces at least 20 cm, and in order not to move the screw for clamping too long, it is better to use a special spring mechanism that will do this much faster by moving the movable lip away. In the required position, the tree is fixed with a screw equipped with a trapezoidal thread.

Features of homemade designs

Well, if you are going to make a carpenter's vice, then they will have a slightly different structure. As a basis, we take a screw with a thread of 20 mm, while its length is 150 mm. Often such designs are used in sports-type corners. They are inserted into vertical pipes in order to lift certain things higher with their help. The threads in such screws are quite large, while they are not designed for heavy loads. However, it is quite possible to make a carpentry vice with their help. It is better that the screw be longer, since the distance between the lips will increase.

Be sure to select the appropriate hairpins, which can be specially purchased for this work or found at home. Other types of fasteners may also come up instead. Some even used motorcycle mirror attachments. They have a curved structure, so they need to be straightened on the anvil with a sledgehammer before work.

Product manufacturing example

And now we will consider in more detail how to make a carpenter's vise with our own hands. To get started, make a board from the expense of two clamping sponges. The size is determined individually, depending on your working surface In workshop. Then, on the front sponge, you need to make markings for two holes, and they should be spaced as close as possible to each of the edges. We place the front board over the back and make a hole in it, depending on the diameter of the clamping bolt. Under the T-nuts, we drill holes according to the marks made earlier and then insert them there. Our carpenter's vise is ready. Now you can put the back sponge on the table, press it with a clamp and, holding the part, make cuts.

To fix the handle in the long head of the screw, there must be a slot. If it does not match the handle in size, then it can be modified with a file, expanding the hole. Instead of a lever for unscrewing the clamping screw, you can take a design with a ring instead of a cap.

As a fixed sponge for a vise, carpenters use a pine board nailed to the table. And its moving part should have a thickness of 20 mm, a width of 18 mm and a length of 50 cm.

The hole for the screw must be made in both parts with adjustable drill for a diameter of 21 mm, but for studs you can use the usual 10 mm, respectively. So that both sponges can be processed in this way simultaneously through and through, nail them to each other, and then pull the nails out when the work is completed.

Benefits of using the product

We looked at how to make a carpentry vice at home for the convenience of working with wood and other blanks. There are other options for their manufacture, in particular designs with higher jaws, which are used exclusively for manual joinery. Often in a vise carpenter's work shop they have a task called "double screw". Classic variant products - two threads and two jaws, which are fixed in front of the workbench, have been widely used for more than one century in a row.

Moreover, a carpentry vice is enough simple thing in use. It is enough just to insert the part to be processed between the jaws and clamp it with bolts. Thanks to them, carpenters got rid of many problems, in particular, they can process parts regardless of size, and they also help level the back over the table surface.

Masters note key benefits vise:

  • they can be placed anywhere on the working surface of the workshop, in this regard they are very portable;
  • since this product is not used by the master every day, they are easy to remove and place on the wall in a dedicated place;
  • the product can be installed on the table and used as a large clamp.

How to make a vise with a pressed nut

To make a similar product with your own hands, you need to prepare the following:

  • bolt with nut for breeding;
  • metal staples.

So that the key does not break off the nut when squeezing a wooden or metal workpiece, it must be pressed into it. To this end, the sponges need to be heated on fire and embrace it too. To assemble such a structure with your own hands, you will need a minimum of materials and necessary parts.

Assembling a vise based on shock absorbers

If you have experience and imagination, then you can assemble such a product from any old parts and fixtures that can be found in a workshop or garage. IN specific example we will need:

  • shock absorbers;
  • nut M18;
  • corner based on metal;
  • hairpin;
  • rod from the gas stop for the design handle.

With the help of all the details we assemble the vise, and then we attach them to the table. We drill holes between the shock absorbers in the corners and attach them. To make it easier to work with the key material, the corners can be welded. Shock absorbers will move easier if they are burned a little.

Any carpenter who works with wood and other materials will note that a carpenter's vise for a workbench is very convenient fixture which greatly simplifies the work. What’s more, you can easily make them yourself.

In the vastness of Runet, you can find statements like: "A real master makes a vice only on his own." What a real master will say about this is not difficult to imagine. He, an amateur or living by his own work, the pro knows perfectly well what tool and equipment is better to buy and what to make of it yourself. However, there are times when it makes sense to make a vice with your own hands. For example, for summer cottages (those bought there are idle for nothing in the winter, and they can steal them), when working on the road and / or on occasion (I came to visit relatives, asked for help, but they are not artisans at all). Unfortunately, in the current situation with the tool, there is also a circumstance that makes you think: why not make the vise yourself?

Cast iron and steel

The details of the frame and the clamp of the bench vise are supposed to be made of structural cast iron - it rusts very badly, is hard and viscous, has a low TEC (thermal expansion coefficient), but most importantly, it is practically not subject to metal fatigue. Cast iron vise serve not decades - centuries. Since "the strength of the entire chain is determined by its very weak link”, vise jaws and a pair of lead screw - nut are made of tool steel of various grades. A simple structural one is too ductile, it leads strongly when welding, and it rusts easily. Therefore, leave a homemade vise like those in fig. below, wintering in the country is not recommended - over the winter they can become completely unusable.

But this is not the essence of the problem. And the fact is that now, at a vise purchased at an affordable price, the paws of the sponges often break already at the first clamp; at best, with regular use, the vise will last six months to a year. Upon examination of the fracture, it turns out that they are made of simple gray cast iron. The paws do not break, so the running pair wears out - the thread there is of the usual triangular profile (see below), and the steel, it seems, is no better than St44. And the prices for certified vices with full specifications and a guarantee… let's not talk about sad things, let's remember something good from the past. As a result, the question arises: is it worth it to make a vise yourself at home? Not to mention the case when it is necessary to clamp the workpiece, but at least there are no vices within reach. They will not be better, so at least they will cost less. Or for nothing, if there are suitable trimmings of the metal profile in the trash, see, for example, the plot:

Video: homemade vise in half a day from scrap metal


Primitive from a log

Most material handling operations require clamping the workpiece, and your own arms and legs are by no means the most suitable fixture for this. Therefore, let's start with a vise from a wooden block of wood. For their manufacture, you will need 4+ weaving nails or 150-200 mm and an ax. Ripsaw also does not hurt, if there is. The type of such a device modern man cause either laughter or horror, but the ancestors of the Stone Age would shed a tear of tenderness over him - a vise from a block of wood holds the workpieces quite securely irregular shapes almost any material.

How to make a vise from a wooden block is shown in the figure:

A piece of log/log of good straight-grained wood is split (sawn) as shown on the left in the figure; a crooked chip can be roughly hewn to a plane. The fixed sponge and the thrust heel are attached to the "bed" with nails; the ancients fastened them with sharp splinters of hard wood. Nails are driven in obliquely so that the clamping force pulls them more than bends them.

The movable sponge slides freely on the bed. Clamp - wedge; the wedge can be a bough at the end or a pair of them. Some skill is required to properly trim the wedge(s): too sharp will tip the movable jaw onto the workpiece, while too blunt will push it (sponge) up. But the clamped workpiece is held quite securely due to the elasticity and viscosity of the tree. So reliable that a wedge has to be knocked out to free the workpiece.

Note: long workpieces can be fixed with a pair or more of the same vise.

What to expect from homemade

The device described is, of course, temporary - all its details are quickly soaked, even if the tree presses the tree. Therefore, we will first deal with the question: what kind of homemade vise should be made?

jigs itself different kind in technology, an innumerable multitude is used; patents for them number in the thousands and tens of thousands. It makes sense to make a vice on your own, firstly, the most common. Secondly, they do not require special materials, production equipment and complex technologies for the manufacture.

Ordinary locksmith vise (pos. 1 in the figure) will have to be made fixed. Otherwise, you will have to look for either a ready-made neck-skirt pair (see below), which, moreover, can be taken away during assembly by welding, or the opportunity to use a shaping machine (simply, shaping). Of which there are very few left on the go, labor- and energy-intensive shaping processing is increasingly being replaced by precision casting, stamping and robots.

Note: in a shaping machine, the workpiece is clamped motionless, and the cutter, rotating, moves along the longitudinal and transverse axes. In screw-cutting and carousel lathes, the workpiece is clamped in a rotating spindle (on a carousel table) and the cutter moves in a longitudinal-transverse (in a lathe) or vertical-transverse plane. It didn’t occur to you to think about how the flanges / necks of curved cast pipes, casings of centrifugal “snail” pumps, etc. are turned. details of a complex configuration? On shaping.

Adjustable (mobile) mini-vices, pos. 2 seems to be simpler, but their manufacture requires especially high-quality and, accordingly, difficult-to-process materials. The fact is that the clamping force of the hand vice is determined by the muscular strength of the worker. And the cross section of the parts of the vise with a decrease in their size falls according to a quadratic law, i.e. fast. Paws most often break off just at the mini-vice. However, expanding their functionality on their own is just not difficult, see below.

Ordinary joiner's vice, pos. 3, are part of carpentry workbench and are inoperable without it. But then we will look at how to make a Moxon vise for woodworking, turning any desktop (including at least a written one) into an almost full-fledged carpentry workbench.

Here's what you really need to do yourself home master, so this is a single-coordinate machine vice (a simple fixed table) to a drilling machine, pos. 4. They can also be used independently (separately from the machine) for a wide variety of jobs. The material for machine tools is suitable ordinary available in wide sale; work on the manufacture of machine vices that are not inferior to branded vices requires literally nothing.

Jewelry vise hand (pos. 5) and desktop (pos. 6) - the most convenient things for small precision work. But alas, for their manufacture, special materials and equipment are needed, which are available at any general engineering plant. At home, you can make good substitutes for vise-“frogs”, pos. 7, which, by the way, are often included in the set of desktop jewelry vise, pos. 8.

But with an angle vice (pos. 9) for clamping parts connected at an angle, the matter, as they say, is deaf. It is possible to make their likeness with your own hands (pos. 10), but, firstly, it turns out that it is very difficult to provide a clamp already at a fixed angle of exactly 90 degrees, and if it is possible, then the angle then quickly “floats”. There is no need to talk about homemade angle vise with adjustable clamping angle. The same applies to 2-3-axis manual machine vise (pos. 11-14) and, for example, devices for knitting fishing flies (pos. 15), which are no longer a vise, but a highly specialized machine.

Locksmiths

The device of manual metalwork vice is shown in fig. The shaped nut of the screw is fixedly fixed in the bed tunnel; it also includes a clamp shank, called a slider. The sections of the tunnel and the slider are also shaped (complex configuration) and correspond to each other.

As already mentioned, turning the vise in a horizontal plane will have to be abandoned: base plate for this you need to machine the neck, and on the bottom of the bed - a skirt. Super precision is not needed for this, but special equipment is required, see above.

The second problem is paws with sponges. The paws must be very rigid so that they do not succumb to the reaction of the clamped part, and at the same time viscous so that they do not break. Therefore, the most cheap material paws of a good vise together with a clamp and a bed are structural cast iron, but it is poorly processed, and the clamp with a bed is cast. At home, you can’t put a cupola furnace or an electric furnace at 1700-1800 degrees, so we forget about casting ferrous metals.

However, cast iron is also very hard, rather brittle, and therefore paws without sponges can either spoil the part or crumble on it themselves. Jaws made of hard wear-resistant and at the same time very flexible special steel solve the problem. From it, it would be possible to make all the vise, but then their price ... You did not come across desktop vices at a price of at. $1 for also 1mm wide jaws? This is all-steel, and we need to think about how to make a bed and a vice clamp, suitable for at least occasional use, from ordinary structural steel.

running pair

But here's where problems arise that seem insurmountable, so it's running a pair of vise. It seems nothing complicated: a screw with a nut or a threaded hole in the frame. A groove is machined in the neck of the screw; it seems to be possible to select it with a needle file, clamping the screw wrapped by the thread with thin aluminum into the cartridge drilling machine or a drill fixed on the table. In the clamp (or in the slider of the vise assembled from separate parts), the screw is fixed with a fork, see fig. on right.

The whole point is that all these parts have to take on huge workloads. If you lean on the collar with a force of approx. 20 kgf (nonsense for an adult normal man), then more than 120-130 kgf / sq. mm. In total, so that the vice does not wear out very quickly, the screw, nut and fork must be made of steel with a yield strength of more than 150 kgf / sq. mm; for a conventional structural thread, it is less than 100. And the usual metric thread of a triangular profile will quickly collapse or merge.

Blueprints lead screw bench vise with a width of jaws up to 180 mm are given in the figure:

One critical point is bypassed here: instead of a groove on the neck, there are a pair of bushings made of ordinary steel. In this case, the fork grip can also be made from it. The details of the screw retainer will have to be changed periodically, but this is still all right. But how to cut a D20 trapezoidal thread? Looking for a running pair from an old vise? So in them with a 99.0% probability it is the “stroke” that is worn out, and the cast-iron frame, clamp and plate are still quite serviceable.

Not everything is so bad

Lead screw and nut to it for irregularly used vise with a jaw width of up to 150 mm can be found in almost any household, tool or hardware store or at the iron market. New, the fly did not sit. Where? From fasteners designed for a load of at least 450-460 kgf. The knots are very responsible, and the steel on them is just right, even better - the running pair of vices, on which they do not work intensively, will be quite durable and with a conventional metric thread.

The cheapest option is the ring anchor for hanging heavy chandeliers or multifunctional simulators from the ceiling and walls, at the top in fig. below. Make sure that the screw is either cast, or the joint of the ring and the neck is welded on it (shown by the red arrow). Anchor rings are available up to M22 up to 450 mm long - make a vise what you want. Anchor-ring M12x150 holds a load of 480 kgf, and M16x220 for a 150-mm vice is also suitable with a margin.

The second option, “the fly didn’t sit class,” will cost more, but, possibly, at the price of scrap metal - if it’s broken. This is a hook-ring lanyard, below in fig. Of course, the annular part (shown by the green arrow) comes into play. The advantage is that you will immediately have an excellent wear-resistant nut. The disadvantage is the shorter length and, accordingly, the stroke of the vise jaws: the screws of the turnbuckle for 200 threaded lengths are slightly more than 100 mm.

Note: some disadvantages of both - the vise knob will have to be turned for a long time each time, because. standard metric thread pitch approx. three times smaller than the special trapezoid. With a running pair, it will be necessary to periodically lubricate with grease or other grease - “dry” vise with such a running pair spins tightly, but does not press well.

Sponges

Fig. below. True, there is a mistake - lock nuts are also needed M16. The rear of them along the screw is screwed on first and welded to the stud. Then the pin with the rear washer put on is inserted into the clamp, which in this case is also the slider (“moving part” in the figure); the front washer is put on, the front nut M16 is screwed on and welded, and the eye for the collar is welded; this is an M18 nut. Bed ("moving part") - square corrugated pipe 120x120x4; the slider is also a square professional pipe 100x100x3.

So far so good, but the sponges are also from a professional pipe. Their working surfaces are smooth, but corrugated ones are needed, but this is not so bad. And the trouble is that even from a slight pressure, the sponges will irreversibly disperse (added to the figure). Jaws inside or outside will not help - the metal itself is not suitable. The reader may have already guessed - since the problem is described, there is a way out. Even two, see below and next. chapter.

Note: the advantage of a metalwork vise from segments of professional pipes is cheapness. Suitable pieces are likely to be found in any heap of scrap metal, see for example. video below:

Video: homemade vise from pipe scraps

The first is also from Runet: paws and sponges from the shanks of turning tools for metal. On paws - thicker incisors; on the lips - less. But this, in general, is not an option. Tool steel is very difficult to machine. Almost all that can be done with it in a home workshop is to saw off the shanks with a grinder, weld sponges to the paws and all together to the frame and clamp. Tool steel from welding almost does not lead. But it also boils badly: ready-made paws with sponges, welding them to professional pipes, will have to be heated in such a way that the frame / clamp will unacceptably lead. And the times are not the same now when worn-out cutters could be collected at a factory dump, and defective ones could be bought for a penny at the Young Technician store. With the spread of electric arc melting of metals in the world, tool steel has become a valuable secondary raw material, and at enterprises, turned-out tools are accounted for by the piece. So let's move on to the second one.

Machine tools

As mentioned above, it is most profitable to make a machine vice with your own hands. They greatly simplify drilling work, and almost any of the available materials is suitable for a machine vice: from a channel, see the video:

Video: simple channel vice

to plywood, see plot:

Video: plywood joinery vice for a drilling machine


And again sponges

The strength and stability of the jaws for a machine vice is even more important than for a locksmith: if a drill (cone, cutter) turns a part out of them, this is fraught with serious injury. And so, we return to the question above: what to make vise jaws from? From the corner from 40x40x4. In this case, the entire sponge will work not in shear, but in bending, which the metal resists much more strongly. This is the case when less iron is stronger.

But not every corner of the same size is suitable. The drawn and cold-rolled corner (pos. A and B in the figure below) is unsuitable - the metal is rather weak. Sponges and home-made and metalwork, and machine vices must be made from a hot-rolled corner (pos. B). First of all, it is much stronger. Secondly, a number of its standard sizes is wider: if the thickness of the cold-rolled angle flange general purpose up to 0.1 of the smaller width, then for hot-rolled - up to 0.2b. That is, you can find a hot-rolled corner, say, 60x60x12 - vice jaws from it will be quite reliable.

A hot-rolled corner is easy to recognize by the type of cut: the entire edge of the outer corner is always sharp (shown by an arrow on the left in the next figure), and inside it there is a larger fillet than that of a cold-rolled corner. If the vise is assembled by welding, both an equal-angle and an unequal-angle corner will do. If you assemble them on bolts, it is better to use an unequal one with a ratio of the widths of the shelves (1.5-2) / 1 (a / b \u003d 1.5 ... 2/1). In this case, a large shelf is laid horizontally!

A diagram of the device for a home-made machine vice from a bolted corner is given in the center in fig; on the right - their drawings general view. The slider and the bracket for the clamping screw are bent from a steel strip with a thickness of 1.5 mm or more. The screw in it can be fixed with a groove, because. its fixation works only when the movable jaw is retracted and is negligibly loaded. On the clamp, the tail of the screw rests directly on the sponge; the screw itself is M16-M20. More about homemade machine vise from the corner see video:

Video: simple vise for a drilling machine

Improving the mini

You can’t really improve modern mini-vices, but if you come across or already have old Soviet ones (for example, pos. A in the figure on the right):

Their functionality can be significantly expanded in this way:

  • The flare of the shank of the set screw is drilled out (carefully, not completely!) Holding the plate of the set clamp. You need to drill with a drill with short “pokes” obliquely from different sides.
  • The cymbal is removed and the mounting clamp screw is unscrewed (do not lose it or the cymbal).
  • A bolt hole is drilled in the section of the channel with the same thread as on the clamp screw.
  • The vise is mounted on the resulting stand and fixed with a lock nut (pos. B).
  • A blind axial hole for the M2-M3 thread is drilled in the clamp screw through the rest of the shank. It is not difficult to do this, because. a conical recess remained in the peg from the shank.
  • A thread is cut in the axial hole.
  • The plate is put back into place and is kept from falling out with a cone head screw (shown by an arrow in pos. B).
  • The clamp screw is determined for storage in a stash, excuse me, a storeroom.

Thus we get, neither more nor less - turntable for small drilling work. True, without an angular divider, but instead of it, a protractor can be adapted to the base of the channel, and an arrow-pointer to the vice bracket. The resulting accuracy of 1 degree for home amateur work is enough. And if you remove the vise from the base and replace the clamping screw, they can be used for their original purpose.

Making a frog

Jewelry vise in amateur work, as mentioned above, is in most cases interchangeable with a frog vise; they can also be clamped in a conventional vise. Best of her homemade version- if your pliers or other pliers have a broken handle, at the top in fig. To drill the jaws of the pliers, you need to purchase a carbide twist drill- the usual for metal will not take them.

Homemade vice-“frogs” (locksmith clamps)

A simple replacement, if the pliers still do not break, is a frog-vice made of oak or beech bars, a steel bracket, overhead jaws from a steel angle and fasteners, at the bottom left in fig. A simpler option is a frog from a door or small barn hinge, at the bottom right. But over it will have to puff, using the usual vise. It may be necessary to release the workpiece, heating it red-hot and then slowly cooling it down.

joinery

Moxon's carpentry vise is designed for itinerant joiners and carpenters. In Europe, the USA and Canada, this is a rather sought-after specialty: at the local prices for lumber, many customers require the master to work with them on site and leave the smallest trimmings, up to sawdust and shavings, to the owner. A pair of Moxon vise, which makes it possible to work with long materials, can be carried in the trunk of a car, on a bicycle, scooter and carried in a bag. Amateurs immediately appreciated the find - Moxon's vise allows you to quickly and reversibly turn any more or less durable table to a carpenter's workbench.

The appearance and method of fastening the Moxon mobile carpentry vice are shown on the left and in the center in fig. On the right - the device of their amateur version for fastening to the table tightly.

The Moxon vise has spawned many modifications. Drawings of one of them, a very simple and convenient carpentry vice of only 3 boards and a pair of clamps, are shown in fig. Further. True, in fact, you will need 2 more short clamps to attach the vise to the table. The extra 4 clamps (also not a very cheap pleasure in our time) can be overhead for an amateur. But for a carpenter - an individual entrepreneur working on call, such a vise is a godsend, they can be disassembled and carried with you in an ordinary duffel bag.

Do-it-yourself vise can be made from improvised materials. For this, screws with a thread of 20 mm and a length of 150 mm are used. They can be removed from the sports corner. The thread of such screws is designed for significant loads.

Homemade carpentry vise can be made from improvised materials.

Design features

Do-it-yourself carpentry vise is recommended to be made using long screws. The distance between the jaws of the tool depends on this indicator. Studs are replaced with other fasteners. To fix the handle in the screw, you will need to make a slot. If necessary, the hole is enlarged with a file.

A homemade tool must be equipped with a screw with a ring. A fixed sponge is made from a board. She is nailed to the table. To make the movable part of the workbench, you need a board 20 mm thick and 18 mm wide. The length of the sponge should be 50 cm.

To arrange the hole for the screw, a feather drill is used. It is recommended to pre-adjust it to a diameter of 21 mm. To make a hole for the studs, you need a drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Screws and studs are inserted into the holes.

In order for a home-made vice to process short workpieces, the studs are rearranged. 2 additional holes are made in the board. To work with long boards, a drilling machine with long screws is made.

Application of pressed nuts

Carpentry tools with a pressed nut are made from metal staples. To prevent the key from breaking off the nut when clamping the workpiece, it must be pressed in. To do this, you need to heat the sponges of the key on the fire.

Carpentry tools can be made from shock absorbers and M18 nuts. Holes are made in the corners of the 1st elements. To fix them together, bolts with a countersunk head are used. For self-manufacturing vise can use the following materials:

  • metallic profile;
  • hairpin;
  • nuts;
  • welding;
  • corners.

Previously, 2 segments are cut from the profile. The third strip is cut lengthwise at an angle. The bottom is cut out of a long strip using magnetic corners. The blanks are tried on and cleaned to ensure good adhesion by the welding machine. The vise support is aligned with magnetic corners. The next stage involves welding the last elements and supports. To give the tool greater strength, metal strips are used.

Additional work

Scheme of the carpenter's vice device.

Then the front lip of the vise is welded to the guide. Previously, it is placed with a cutout down. The next step is to make the frame. A metal tape is welded to the last element. Its tasks include limiting the travel of the guide and holding the fastener with a thread.

Nuts are welded to the frame. The pin is screwed in first. The hole for the stem is marked and drilled in the plate. The last part is welded. Steel fastener screwed to the frame. The nut is screwed onto the 1st element.

The stem is inserted into the frame so that the pin passes through the hole. 2 nuts are screwed on top. The pipe is passed through it. Excess pieces of metal tape are cut off. The rear lip is welded to the workpiece and to the bed. If necessary homemade tool paint. To do this, you need to clean them with a felt circle, the stem is lubricated with a special grease. Vices are collected.

Conclusion on the topic

At home, you can make metalwork and carpentry vise. To make 2 tools, water and gas pipes are used. It is necessary to choose pipes with different diameters. A product with a smaller diameter is inserted into a large analogue and fixed by electric welding.

On a smaller product, a flange with an M18 nut is installed. The threaded stud is inserted into the small pipe so that the pre-fixed nut rests against the large bore flange. Other fastener screwed onto the protruding end of the stud. To fix the 1st element, apply welding machine.

The end of the threaded stud is screwed into the pipe nut with large diameter. The next step is to install the pressure and base plate on the vise. Sponges are made from square pipe, and paws - from the corner.

For ease of use, a nut is welded to the protruding end of the stud. This takes into account the possibility of installing a metal bar in it. This technology will allow you to rotate the axis, easily controlling the vise.

Homemade vise may have some negative characteristics:

  • simultaneous rotation of the inner tube with the pin;
  • the pipe must be in the appropriate position (for this you will need to install a retainer).

In the manufacture of home-made vise from 2 scraps in the form of squares, the above technology should be followed.

Many plumbing jobs require special vices. Their purpose is to rigidly fix the workpiece being processed. There are quite a few on sale a large number of various options execution of locksmith machines, all of them are united by a rather high cost. For a private workshop, you can make a metalwork vice with your own hands. The created design will cost much less and at the same time is ideal for installation in a private workshop.

Vise Features

Do-it-yourself strong vise at home can be made from a profile pipe. The resulting design will have a compact size, can be rigidly attached to the base. Similar vices are used to work with various workpieces, since the device can exert different pressure on the jaws.

Step-by-step instruction

Relatively few tools are required for the job. The entire manufacturing process can be divided into several main stages:

After the structure has been assembled, it is painted. As a rule, the angle used is made using ordinary steel, which corrodes during long-term operation. The created vise can be bolted to the base.

Universal design for domestic use

Homemade vise for a drilling machine or workbench does not require complex calculations. As a rule, a steel pipe is used as the basis in most cases.

When considering how to make a homemade vice, attention should be paid to the design features:

Such a design can withstand significant impact and last for a long period.

Do-it-yourself work

To work with metal, you need a grinder and a welding machine. Machine milling vice of this type is made as follows:

The created vise design is characterized by high reliability and long term operation. However, it is easy to repair and inexpensive. That is why it is quite popular among home craftsmen.

Making a carpenter's vice

For processing wooden blanks, a carpenter's vice is required. They are used both in the manufacture of new parts and in the repair of existing ones. It is inconvenient to work with wood when using a bench vise. That is why many people decide to make joinery, which have a number of their own characteristics.

The simplest design is represented by a combination of the following elements:

Manufacturing features include the following:

In this way, a very practical carpenter's vice can be made. They will cost inexpensively, can be used for most carpentry work.

Homemade designs are in no way inferior to industrial ones. They can also be designed to withstand heavy loads. The vise created can have a variety of qualities, as they are created by the master, depending on the needs.