How to cut laminate to fit a pipe. Step by step instructions on how to lay laminate flooring correctly. Contours for heating pipes under laminate when installing flooring

It is unlikely that today you can find a floor covering that is easier to install than laminate. Even a child can connect the planks together with glueless locks. But even with such the easy way assembly, there are some pitfalls that are very difficult to get around without professional skills. This article is devoted to considering ways to bypass various obstacles that arise when laying laminate flooring.

Difficult places when laying laminate flooring

Laying laminate flooring in a straight line is not difficult for anyone today. You don't need to be an expert to do this. However, when laying laminate flooring, you have to deal with problem areas that can be general case reduce it to the following list:

• Transitions to adjacent rooms through wide open openings with side walls. A canonical example of such transitions are openings formed when connecting loggias to the living part of the rooms.
• Pipes coming out of screeds. These most often include heating pipes for batteries with bottom connection.
• Going through doorways. The difficulty of getting through these places is that you need to go around the door frames so that there are no gaps left.
• Installation of the last row of panels. Of all the cases listed, this option is the simplest.
• Transition of the “laminate – another coating” type. The problem here is that the thickness of the coatings can be different and this entails a number of difficulties, including the need to cast screeds at different levels. In addition, rarely anyone is interested in transitions in a straight line. The most common transitions are along curves.

Let's consider the order of work for each of these cases separately.

How to transition laminate flooring through a wide opening with side walls

In order to move from a room to a glazed and insulated loggia, attached to the living space as a result of redevelopment, it is necessary that the floor screed in the room and the floor screed on the loggia are at the same level. This must be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, there will be a step on the room dividing line.

If the levels of the screeds are the same, then laying the laminate begins from the side wall that does not have a doorway. The direction of laying the panels should be “in the light”. That is, long joints should be positioned so that the light falling from the loggia window passes along them.

The first few rows of laminate flooring will be laid straight. This will continue until the wall runs out. At the point where the partition transitions to the slope, you need to make a cut in the panel (or in two adjacent panels joined along the length) and extend a row to the wall of the loggia fence along the facade. Then you need to lay another row of laminate in order to cover the transverse joints on the loggia.

And the next step will be to lay the laminate in the reverse order directly on the loggia behind the wall, if you look at it from the room. When reinstalling laminate flooring lock connection you will have to lift the previous row, which is already in place, bring the panel under it at an angle, join it manually without knocking it, and, shaking it, place it on the lining. At the same time, if the width of the loggia is greater than the length of one panel, then the resulting undercut must have a separation of at least 30 cm from the panels of the next row.

When the last panel is laid in reverse order, you can continue laying the laminate further. There will be no problems when crossing the second wall, since the direction of laying there coincides with the direction in the rest of the room.

How to go around pipes with laminate

Most often, difficulties with pipes when laying laminate flooring arise if they come out of the screed far from the corner. This situation is typical for houses with autonomous heating, where heating devices with bottom connections are installed. In this case, two pipes are located side by side at a distance of about 5-7 cm from each other.

In this case, laying the laminate is carried out in the same way as if these pipes did not exist. Until the moment when you come close to the pipes. Here it will become clear whether both pipes will fit on one panel or whether it will be necessary to make cutouts for them on two adjacent laminate panels.

If the pipes pass through one panel, you need to mark the centers of both pipes on it, cut holes with a suitable radial saw with a small margin to the larger side, cut the panel crosswise along the center line with a jigsaw and put the cut panel in place. If you made the markings correctly, the panel will neatly go around the pipes that will remain inside. All that remains is to attach the second part from behind to close the surface of the laminate behind the pipes. If everything is in order, then you can lay the next row of laminate, which will close the cut parts and prevent them from moving.

A more difficult case will be when the pipes are not located on the same panel. In this case, one of the panels will be longer and the second shorter, since there must be a gap between the rows. To correctly mark the places for cutting the holes, you need to lay two rows of laminate on which the pipes fall, but without installing the last panels, which you just need to cut to size along the length.

The panels are then joined together and the centers of the holes are marked. The panels must match the cut line against the wall. Then, using the same radial saw, holes are cut out without separating the laminate panels and a cut is made along the center line of the holes in the transverse direction of both panels. Then proceed in the same way as in the previous case.

How to go around a doorway with laminate

Difficulty with doorways arises when the doors are installed before the laminate is laid. This happens if all tiling work in the room is completed before starting work on the flooring. If the doors are installed on top of the laminate, which means it is impossible to fully carry out all the work in the room according to finishing, then in this case it is possible to significantly simplify the procedure for crossing the doorway. Which, however, is not always equivalent in terms of labor costs and is associated with the need to protect the already laid laminate from damage and contamination.

Typically, door frames interior doors in modern versions they do not have a threshold and are installed directly on the subfloor. To avoid gaps between the laminate and a profile with a complex cross-section door frame it needs to be filed in place. To do this, you need to take a piece of laminate that is laid in the room and a lining. Place the scrap on the backing next to the vertical post of the box and mark on it the thickness of the laminate on the backing. The same must be done on the second rack. Then you need to take a rigid hacksaw with small tooth and saw off the excess along the marked line.

Next, you need to mark a transition line on the screed, which should run in the center door leaf from one box post to another. After which you can continue laying the laminate until the last panel remains (or panels, if the laminate approaches the opening perpendicular to it), which must be marked so that it can fit under the racks and does not touch the walls and slopes under the racks. Next, the panel must be engaged with the lock of the previous panel and placed in front of the rack. Then you need to take a piece of laminate and carefully use a hammer to knock the panel under the counter. Moreover, the panel should be joined to the second half approximately in the middle of the opening. The part paired to it must be cut so that it first fits tightly under the end of the second rack, and then it must be joined to the first part by tamping it in the same way. The trims that should go along the wall are measured and installed regardless of the location of the transverse seams of the rest of the floor.

How to install the last row of laminate panels

There are rare cases when the last row fits into an entire strip of laminate. Most often it is necessary to install trims that are smaller than the whole panel. To do this work accurately, it is necessary to mark several points on each trim panel, with a tolerance of 1 cm and directly in place, since the walls are far from ideal flat surface, then connect the points with a line and cut off the excess along it with a jigsaw.

Before cutting the next part, you need to install the previous one. To put the trims in place, you can use a pry bar. At the same time, in places where it will rest against the wall, you need to place at least a piece of laminate or other hard material that will not stain the walls.

Transition type “laminate – other coating”

In this case, it is necessary to lay another covering first. This could be tiles, carpet, parquet, self-leveling flooring, etc. It is important here to get clear contours of the transition line, which must be set before laying the laminate. A support for the transition strip is mounted parallel to the outline.

The laminate is then laid in the usual manner, and the outline last panel, which should be joined to the bar, is first obtained on a paper template, from which it is transferred to the required part. It is necessary to take into account the gap recommended by the manufacturer of the strip in order to avoid defects after its final installation.

It is important long before laying the laminate to match the levels of the screed in places with different coatings. For example, the thickness of parquet with a base is approximately 45 mm. And the thickness of the laminate with lining is approximately 15 mm. This means that you need to raise the side of the room where the laminate will be laid by three centimeters.

The final transition strip is installed after the laminate is laid. Most often, it is enough to carefully place it on a base with a guide using a hammer and a spacer made of wood or plywood.

Functional purpose of decorative products

Installation Features

A variety of linings for heating pipes and radiators

Appearance of pipes laid in the room and installed radiators heating should be in harmony with the overall interior.

bypassing the pipe with laminate

To do this, it is necessary to use decorative products such as panels, screens, and overlays. How to choose these elements correctly and what should you pay attention to first of all?

Functional purpose of decorative products

When laying flooring, for example, laminate or parquet, there is a need to make the place where the pipes and the floor come into contact with each other invisible. Even if you make a hole, in the end the problem will not be solved. The joint will still be noticeable, since when performing correct installation you need to leave a gap of about 10 millimeters, which will help avoid problems when the flooring material narrows or expands.

Products such as decorative linings for pipes will help eliminate the problem of camouflage. They were specially created for such purposes. These elements are a ring that is made from different materials.

Pipe covers will not only carefully cover the gap, but will also not disturb the interior of the room.

Installation Features

Installation of such products is quite simple, since they have a simple design. Since the cover is a collapsible decorative ring for pipes, it is put on the girth and closes the gap, after which the element is slammed shut.

The pad should be firmly pressed to the floor covering. Thanks to their shape, the products are fixed securely. The decorative overlay is installed on the pipes within one minute. This product is convenient to use. If necessary, the ring can be removed without any problems.

To reuse heating pipe covers, you only need to wash them and then reinstall them. Experts recommend gluing the area where the floor covering connects to the ring.

A variety of linings for heating pipes and radiators

There is a huge selection on offer decorative elements for pipes and radiators.

Heating pipe rings vary:

1. Dimensions. Standard elements come in ½ and ¾ sizes.
2. Material of manufacture. Most often, this is solid wood, and they use different tree species. They are also made from MDF. The second version of the products has affordable price unlike the expensive first one.
3. Scope of application. A decorative overlay is produced for the heating pipe, imitating parquet, laminate, fake diamond etc.
4. Decorative design. Rings differ in color, shades, texture.

Along with rings, other options for masking joints are used:

• jute or hemp rope, which has good thermal insulation and reduces heat loss.
• use heat-resistant fabric;
• carry out painting.

Laying laminate Instructions 3

How to avoid terrain obstacles.

Laminate bypass of heating pipes

There is often a beautiful way to bypass heating pipes on the Internet. The experience of our laminate laying specialists will allow you to choose the most elegant way to get around obstacles of any complexity (corners, pipes).

One of them is when the pipes are, as it were, taken into blocks:

• The laminate is laid until the next row is not blocked by a pipe.
• Using a tape measure, corner and others convenient tools The location of the pipes is measured - the distance from the center of the pipes to the laid laminate sheet and from the center to the wall
• The diameter of the pipes is determined
• The obtained values ​​are marked on the planned laminate board - circles of pipes are drawn taking into account the required gap from the wall and the pipes themselves (the diameter is 1 cm larger)
• The cut is made in a straight line across the laminate board
• The short part is inserted behind the pipes (from the wall), after which the long part of the laminate board is laid

Even more beautiful solution There is an option when, instead of a cross cut to connect the short and long parts, an end lock is used. Those. all markings and cutting of holes for the pipe are made at the junction of the laminate boards (as in the photo above)

In practice, this option is extremely rare. Usually the pipes are very close to the walls.

It’s easier to make an oval cut for the pipe, taking into account the required gap, and if you really want to, make the reverse part from the remaining piece. But this is not necessary - the presence of a gap and installation of the plinth on the wall leads to the need for decorative intervention (colored sealant or special overlays).

It is better to first make the markings on cardboard, check them several times, and then transfer them to the laminate board and saw them off. Because The radius of the oval will be small, the jigsaw must be driven very slowly and significant efforts must be made to turn it. Usually the canvas begins to “burn” - smoke may appear, and the canvas becomes covered with soot. But it was never possible to bring it to the flame)). For greater convenience, you first need to cut out one side of the oval, then the other.

A gap between the pipe and the laminate (or between the pipe and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorative agents.

Laminate around corners

If the angle is encountered in the direction of travel, i.e. the ledge is on the right in the direction of movement, then there is no great difficulty. Get to the corner, measure the geometry of the protrusion on the whole board: length to the protrusion, depth of the protrusion, add a gap, double-check it several times and saw off.

It is more difficult when the angle is on the left in the direction of travel and affects the geometry of several boards (i.e. a long partition). In this case, you can miscalculate the depth of the cut boards, because no azimuth. In this case, it is necessary to make a false row.

To the laid row we add either a whole board or the longest piece of board possible (if a whole board cannot be used due to limited width). We attach several boards to it - a false row to the extreme left position. We align all the edges and secure all the locks. We take measurements of the resulting niches and transfer them to the blanks, check them several times (dimensions, location of locks) and saw them off. Then we disassemble the false row and install the sawn blanks.

This work is complicated by the fact that the locks will have to be connected not from left to right, but vice versa.

Walking around door frames and furniture

There are two ways to pair floor coverings with door frames: adjustment of coating geometry or filed the box. Both methods have pros and cons. The filing of the box is a beautiful option - there are no gaps. But the door frame is a more static element than the floor covering. For example, first a parquet board was laid (height 12-15 mm), it was scratched, wet, and cracked. It was decided to replace it with laminate (height 8 mm) of the same color. And the box has already been sawed - there will be an 8 mm gap. Or you need to quickly disassemble the floor during flooding - with the option of boards placed under a box, this is not always easy to do.

The second disadvantage is the complexity and cost of the box. Prices for interior doors can vary from 1,500 to 100,000 rubles (or more). Sawing down the door frame of an expensive door is an extremely unpleasant task. In this position (hacksaw blade bending, pressed to the floor), the cut may become distorted or the veneer may chip.

Adjusting the geometry of the floor covering to the shape of the box does not have the above-mentioned disadvantages, but requires decorative masking of the deformation gap. This is usually done with colored sealants.

If selected first way, you need to take a hacksaw with a fine tooth, mark the height of the cut using a small piece of coating (+ substrate, board and 1-3 mm of reserve) and very carefully make the cut. If it is possible to remove the trim, it is better to do this, it will be more convenient. If not, the work will become more difficult. Don't forget what's behind them concrete wall, which can damage the hacksaw. A margin of 1-3 mm is necessary so that the box does not press the laminate.

Next, the board is measured and cut. The geometry of the cut should be such that after laying all the edges are hidden under the box by 5-10 mm, but do not rest against an obstacle. For convenience, the minimum acceptable length of the board is desirable - equal to the width of the board.

Once the laminate board of the required geometry is made, it is snapped along the long side (into the longitudinal lock), and then gently tapped through a tamping block (or through a piece of board with a reverse lock) and moved under the door frame. In this operation, the slowness and frictional force of the longitudinal locks are important (the longer the board, the more difficult it is to move it along the longitudinal lock).

If selected second way, you need to use cardboard. The geometry of the box is applied to it, the necessary cut is made, checked and only then transferred to the workpiece. It is better to mark the threshold line using a flat tool placed between the door frame jambs.

A gap between the door frame and the laminate (or between the frame and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorative agents.

Laying laminate flooring in a doorway in a complex version

Most difficult option bypassing the door frame when the direction of laying the laminate or parquet board parallel to the doorway, and the laminate must be placed under the door frame.

• The joint of the boards should be done close to the middle of the opening. If the penultimate row does not allow this, then maintain a run-up, but join in doorway
• No matter how long the row is and no matter where it is doorway(edges of the wall or the middle), it will need to be laid away from the doorway.
• Saw off a small board (10-15 cm wide) so that it can be inserted into the lock of the penultimate laid row and there will be 1 cm between it and the wall.
• Remove the wedges from all sides of the laid laminate or parquet board
• Insert the board into the penultimate row and from one edge and move the entire sheet with a nail puller by 5-7 mm, then do this from the other edge.
• File the door frame on both sides (it is advisable to do this before laying the last 2-3 rows)

• Measure and cut the board (with any part of the lock in the middle - the left or right side of the structure). The geometry of the cut laminate or parquet board should be such that the cracks are covered by the frame and trim, but the board does not rest against the wall or frame anywhere.
• Insert the workpiece into the lock and carefully tap it to the extreme position, i.e. 5-7 mm from the normal position. If the geometry needs to be changed, do it.
• Measure and cut the next piece. Its geometry should be such that it fits into the short lock of the laid workpiece and fits into the remaining opening between the door frame. All cracks, in the end, should also be covered with the door frame and trim.
• Insert the workpiece into place. The following situation should result - the entire panel is shifted from the doorway by 5-7 mm, one board is placed under the door frame until it touches the wall, the other is laid in all the locks, but not under the door frame

• Next, you need to move two blanks along the canvas. This is done either by tamping or with a nail puller (if there is a stop).
• After this, using a nail puller, the entire canvas is shifted towards the doorway by 5-7 mm. It goes under the box.

  How to bypass the pipe when laying laminate?

  Do not forget about the distance for installing the threshold.

• Add the rest of the last row.

Note

Laying laminate or parquet boards in a doorway as described above is not an easy process. Without experience, you can ruin more than one workpiece, but there is no need to despair - the one who walks will master the road.

Note

Even if the entire apartment is planned to be covered with one floor covering, thresholds are necessary. Our craftsmen periodically travel to sites where it is necessary to break up a single covering of several rooms, because... it rose like a wave.

If the room has built-in furniture that cannot be moved, it can be left in place and a covering can be laid around. In this case, all geometric adjustments must be made using cardboard templates.

Note

There are very difficult ones geometric figures, for example, bypassing a door frame when diagonal laying boards Without a template it will be difficult even for experienced craftsmen.

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Instructions for laying laminate flooring

Step 1. Preparing to lay the laminate

Step 2. Row-by-row laying of laminate

Features of laying parquet boards

Laying laminate flooring with your own hands - brief instructions

Laying parquet boards diagonally

Good afternoon Please tell me how to properly lay laminate flooring in doorways and near pipe risers. I will have to install the flooring myself. In general, a master did the flooring work for me: he picked necessary materials, prepared the foundation. All that was left was to install the laminate, but he became seriously ill and would not be able to continue for the next 5-6 months. I decided to do everything myself. In principle, I imagine the procedure, but it’s specific places that confuse me, where I’m afraid of spoiling it.

Yes, valid when laying laminate Special attention need to be given to zones in districts doorways and places where communication elements are located. In this aspect, two methods of installing laminate flooring are relevant.

What about doorways?

Method number 1

It is characterized by high labor costs, although this technology is the most optimal in the vast majority of cases. The door frame is cut to a height that will be sufficient for laying the laminate panel. But when performing such manipulations, the popular wisdom is very relevant: “Measure seven times before cutting.” Here the main emphasis is on dimensional accuracy, since there is no chance to correct the situation.

Method number 2

An easier method that involves working with a laminate panel. It is cut to fit the size of the door jamb or other “protrusion”, leaving a gap from the wall. Near the doorway, a gap of no more than 5 mm is allowed. In addition, it will subsequently be closed with a special decorative strip, which will be installed in such a way that it will not interfere with the closing and opening of the door.

Particular attention to risers and pipelines

In this case, laying should be done in such a way that the transverse joint falls on the pipes. Or you need to pre-drill a special hole that completely matches the shape and size of the pipe. In this case, it is important to comply with the following condition: the size of the hole must be 20 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe. At the final stage of installation of the laminate flooring, the resulting gaps will be closed with special plugs that match the color of the floor.

Lay laminate flooring around pipes and under doors

Lay laminate flooring around pipes and under doors. and also under other obstacles, in fact, there are no particular difficulties - you just need to know a few important points. These are the ones we will talk about here.

Bypassing the pipe with laminate is carried out as follows: a) it is necessary to take measurements and set marks; b) cut a hole of the required diameter in the corresponding shield, taking into account that there should be a distance of 10 mm between the pipe and the edge of the laminate.

The laminate around corners, steps, thresholds, ramps and other similar elements is subject to the same rule - the distance between them and the edge of the laminate should be 10 mm.

Where does this distance come from? The fact is that 10 mm. - This minimum width expansion (expansion) joint, which is necessary to ensure free movement of the coating occurring due to temperature and other deformation (laminated floors continuously “breathe”). If there are no expansion joints, the panels may swell. so we need to take this seriously. Although laminate is a “construction set for adults” and “wallpaper for the floor,” its flooring is still not toys, but work that must be treated as such.

The laminate under the doors is laid as follows: during the installation process, or rather, even before it, the doors are removed from their hinges and removed from the room. But before that, you need to calculate whether the door will close after you lay the floors. To do this, add up the thickness of the substrate and the thickness of the laminate and subtract all this from the distance from concrete base floor to the edge of the door. If less than 3 mm remains. (without taking into account the aluminum threshold), then the door will have to be filed down. If you also need a threshold, then there should be at least 8 mm. (another thing is that the threshold may be located behind the door.

The flooring of the outermost row is carried out in the same way as the rest of the rows, only it will most likely have to be sawed along, that is, all of its panels will have to be sawed. This is not as difficult as it might seem: you simply measure the distance between the edge of the penultimate row and the wall, subtract the same 10 mm. sawing, joining, laying. The process is described in full (with photos and videos) in general material for laying laminate.

How to lay laminate flooring if a pipe running across the room is in the way? Yes, very simple. You just need to take the panel, place it on the previous one and click it with a sharp force (watch the video). True, the panel should not be too short so that it can be bent:

© 2012 Finishing and general construction works

Based on materials from the site: http://silite.spb.ru

Many would not mind learning how to lay laminate flooring, because this skill will allow you to do modern renovation and at the same time save on the services of masters.

You will have to master, not only how to lay laminate flooring correctly, but also how to lead preparatory work. Between the cleaned and primed base, as well as the future floor, it is necessary to lay a backing made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene film. One of the ways to lay a laminated coating is the following method: armed with PVC glue, treat the edges of the panels with it.

How to put laminate under a pipe?

There is no need to glue laminate flooring to the floor.

Listen to good advice How to lay laminate correctly: stretch a straight rope along the walls, which will allow you to avoid curvature in your work. When you finish laying one row, the next row must begin with the plank that remains from the previous stage. Please note that the panel length must be 400 millimeters or more. If the board is shorter, cut the new panel in half.

Remember that the row of laminate in contact with the wall must have a gap of 5 mm with it. If the room is held heating pipes, cut a hole in the board 10 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe itself. Mask the cut of the hole with special flaps. When the laminate is laid, remove the spacer wedges and install a skirting board at least 1 cm wide.

How to lay laminate flooring correctly. Video lesson

25.07.2013

When laying laminate flooring, be sure to leave a gap. That is, there should be such a gap between all objects. First of all, the boards do not touch the walls. But they should not touch door frames, heating pipes and should not rest against other floor coverings. For example, in tiles.

A floor made from laminate is called a floating floor.

It is not attached to the base and is not placed in a spacer for one reason - laminate, like natural wood, changes its size depending on the humidity in the room. This is why they leave a gap: in anticipation of possible changes.

This gap is most noticeable along the walls. But there it is covered with a plinth. A modern plinth is nailed to the wall. Previously, it was nailed to the floor, but now they don’t do that; the floor must be “floating.” The gap between different floor coverings is closed with standard thresholds. They are made of aluminum and painted to match the color of the laminate. But there are still places that need to be closed.

This refers to holes for heating pipes. The pipes themselves can be hidden in the screed, but the place where they exit needs to be arranged somehow. It is impossible to lay the laminate closely (given the need for a gap), and it is not possible. The hole is difficult to mark, and if you cut it end to end, the board will not be able to be inserted into the lock; it will simply rest against the pipe. According to the standard, the gap should be 8-10mm, but it can be less - 3-5mm. So far not a single board has been damaged.

The easiest way is to cover the hole with a decorative round cover. But they are not so easy to buy, and it is not possible to install them everywhere: the cover simply does not fit between the pipe and the wall.

Then you need to close the gap with decorative putty. In theory, sealant or wood putty would be suitable for this purpose. But the temperature can cause the putty to crumble; the sealant is elastic and easily survives heat. But it’s better to go to the store together with a piece of laminate in order to accurately select the color (the sealant is sold already tinted according to the RAL system). Another option is grout for seams ceramic tiles. It is also sold tinted and at the same time (if diluted with latex) it is quite elastic. The only thing is that at best 10% of the package will be used. The rest will remain in case of possible repairs.

Comments

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Makhlin Oleg

As far as I can see, they cover everything with regular grout.

Informative. It would be nice if other cases were described. For example, when the box has been completed and you can no longer install a threshold or a plinth there.

Igor Kulbeda

It depends on how you cut it. The easiest way to close it is with a decorative washer. But when the pipes are close to the wall, they are usually cut into a rectangle, so the washer does not fit.

For such cases, you need to run pipes into the wall. And then they carefully come out of the wall directly onto the tap.

Well, they take it out mainly from the floor.

Contours for heating pipes under laminate when installing flooring

Lay laminate flooring around pipes and under doors, as well as other obstacles, actually does not present any particular difficulties - you just need to know some important points. These are the ones we will talk about here.

Laminate pipe bypass carried out as follows: a) it is necessary to take measurements and set marks; b) cut a hole of the required diameter in the corresponding shield, taking into account that there should be a distance of 10 mm between the pipe and the edge of the laminate.

The seams around pipes and other iron must be sealed with acrylic sealant (it is better to take a sealant that exactly matches the color of the floor, the color here in the photo is not very suitable). However, the perimeter seams covered by skirting boards must remain unfilled:

Laminate flooring around corners, steps, thresholds, ramps and other similar elements are subject to the same rule - the distance between them and the edge of the laminate should be 10 mm.

Where does this distance come from? The fact is that 10 mm. - this is the minimum width of the expansion joint, which is necessary to ensure free movement of the coating that occurs due to temperature and other deformation (laminated floors continuously “breathe”). If there are no expansion joints, the shields may swell, so you need to take this seriously. Although laminate is a “construction set for adults” and “wallpaper for the floor,” its flooring is still not toys, but work that must be treated as such.

Laminate under doors it is laid as follows: during the installation process, or rather, even before it, the doors are removed from their hinges and removed from the room. But before you need to calculate whether the door will close after you lay the floors. To do this, add up the thickness of the substrate and the thickness of the laminate and subtract all this from the distance from the concrete base of the floor to the edge of the door. If less than 3 mm remains (excluding the aluminum threshold), then the door will have to be sawed down. If you also need a threshold, then at least 8 mm should remain (another thing is that the threshold can be located Behind the door, and not under it).

Flooring of the outermost row is carried out in the same way as the rest of the rows, only it will most likely have to be sawed lengthwise, that is, all its shields will have to be sawed. This is not as difficult as it might seem: you simply measure the distance between the edge of the penultimate row and the wall, subtract the same 10 mm, saw off, connect, lay. The process is described in full (with photos and videos) in the general material on laying laminate flooring.

If a row cannot be installed (for example, because a steam heating radiator is in the way), then you should use a planer to remove part of the lock edge of the panel of the previous row, which will make it possible to insert the panel of the outermost row at a greater angle than usual. Apply glue to the lock, push the unruly panel under the radiator and finish the row.

How to lay laminate flooring if a pipe running across the room is in the way? Yes, very simple! You just need to take the panel, place it on the previous one and click it with a sharp force (watch the video).

True, the panel should not be too short so that it can be bent:

This is how you need to avoid obstacles when laying laminate floors. Agree that there is absolutely nothing complicated or supernatural in this. Yes, it should be remembered that when you carry out such work to order, the avoidance of obstacles is usually assessed separately (for example, as is the case with tiling). I mean, in an ordinary room with four corners and one radiator, the cost of installation is basic, but if it is full of different corners and the radiators are mounted on the walls like cockroaches, and at the same time pipes stretch along the floor almost under every wall, then the estimate of the work should be reconsidered .

Laying laminate Instructions 3

How to avoid terrain obstacles.

Laminate bypass of heating pipes

There is often a beautiful way to bypass heating pipes on the Internet. The experience of our laminate laying specialists will allow you to choose the most elegant way to get around obstacles of any complexity (corners, pipes).

One of them is when the pipes are, as it were, taken into blocks:

• The laminate is laid until the next row is not blocked by a pipe.
• Using a tape measure, a corner and other convenient tools, the location of the pipes is measured - the distance from the center of the pipes to the laid laminate sheet and from the center to the wall
• The diameter of the pipes is determined
• On the planned laminate board, the obtained values ​​are marked - circles of pipes are drawn, taking into account the required gap from the wall and the pipes themselves (diameter 1 cm.
• The cut is made in a straight line across the laminate board
• The short part is inserted behind the pipes (from the wall), after which the long part of the laminate board is laid

An even more beautiful solution is the option when, instead of cross-cutting the connection between the short and long parts, an end lock is used.

Laminate and heating pipes

Those. all markings and cutting of holes for the pipe are made at the junction of the laminate boards (as in the photo above)

In practice, this option is extremely rare. Usually the pipes are very close to the walls.

It’s easier to make an oval cut for the pipe, taking into account the required gap, and if you really want to, make the reverse part from the remaining piece.

But this is not necessary - the presence of a gap and installation of the plinth on the wall leads to the need for decorative intervention (colored sealant or special overlays).

It is better to first make the markings on cardboard, check them several times, and then transfer them to the laminate board and saw them off. Because The radius of the oval will be small, the jigsaw must be driven very slowly and significant efforts must be made to turn it. Usually the canvas begins to “burn” - smoke may appear, and the canvas becomes covered with soot. But it was never possible to bring it to the flame)). For greater convenience, you first need to cut out one side of the oval, then the other.

A gap between the pipe and the laminate (or between the pipe and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorative agents.

Laminate around corners

If the angle is encountered in the direction of travel, i.e. the ledge is on the right in the direction of movement, then there is no great difficulty. Get to the corner, measure the geometry of the protrusion on the whole board: length to the protrusion, depth of the protrusion, add a gap, double-check it several times and saw off.

It is more difficult when the angle is on the left in the direction of travel and affects the geometry of several boards (i.e. a long partition). In this case, you can miscalculate the depth of the cut boards, because no azimuth. In this case, it is necessary to make a false row.

To the laid row we add either a whole board or the longest piece of board possible (if a whole board cannot be used due to limited width). We attach several boards to it - a false row to the extreme left position. We align all the edges and secure all the locks. We take measurements of the resulting niches and transfer them to the blanks, check them several times (dimensions, location of locks) and saw them off. Then we disassemble the false row and install the sawn blanks.

This work is complicated by the fact that the locks will have to be connected not from left to right, but vice versa.

Walking around door frames and furniture

There are two ways to pair floor coverings with door frames: adjustment of coating geometry or filed the box. Both methods have pros and cons. The filing of the box is a beautiful option - there are no gaps. But the door frame is a more static element than the floor covering. For example, first a parquet board was laid (height 12-15 mm), it was scratched, wet, and cracked. It was decided to replace it with laminate (height 8 mm) of the same color. And the box has already been sawed - there will be an 8 mm gap. Or you need to quickly disassemble the floor during flooding - with the option of boards placed under a box, this is not always easy to do.

The second disadvantage is the complexity and cost of the box. Prices for interior doors can vary from 1,500 to 100,000 rubles (or more). Sawing down the door frame of an expensive door is an extremely unpleasant task. In this position (hacksaw blade bending, pressed to the floor), the cut may become distorted or the veneer may chip.

Adjusting the geometry of the floor covering to the shape of the box does not have the above-mentioned disadvantages, but requires decorative masking of the deformation gap. This is usually done with colored sealants.

If selected first way, you need to take a hacksaw with a fine tooth, mark the height of the cut using a small piece of coating (+ substrate, board and 1-3 mm of reserve) and very carefully make the cut. If it is possible to remove the trim, it is better to do this, it will be more convenient. If not, the work will become more difficult. Don't forget that there is a concrete wall behind them, which can damage the hacksaw. A margin of 1-3 mm is necessary so that the box does not press the laminate.

Next, the board is measured and cut. The geometry of the cut should be such that after laying all the edges are hidden under the box by 5-10 mm, but do not rest against an obstacle. For convenience, the minimum acceptable length of the board is desirable - equal to the width of the board.

Once the laminate board of the required geometry is made, it is snapped along the long side (into the longitudinal lock), and then gently tapped through a tamping block (or through a piece of board with a reverse lock) and moved under the door frame. In this operation, the slowness and frictional force of the longitudinal locks are important (the longer the board, the more difficult it is to move it along the longitudinal lock).

If selected second way, you need to use cardboard. The geometry of the box is applied to it, the necessary cut is made, checked and only then transferred to the workpiece. It is better to mark the threshold line using a flat tool placed between the door frame jambs.

A gap between the door frame and the laminate (or between the frame and the parquet board) is required. To prevent dust from accumulating in it, it is necessary to use decorative agents.

Laying laminate flooring in a doorway in a complex version

The most difficult option for bypassing a door frame is when the direction of laying the laminate or parquet board is parallel to the doorway, and the laminate must be placed under the door frame.

• The joint of the boards should be done close to the middle of the opening. If the penultimate row does not allow this, then maintain a run-up, but meet in the doorway
• No matter how long the row is and no matter where the doorway is (edges of the wall or the middle), it will need to be laid away from the doorway.
• Saw off a small board (10-15 cm wide) so that it can be inserted into the lock of the penultimate laid row and there will be 1 cm between it and the wall.
• Remove the wedges from all sides of the laid laminate or parquet board
• Insert the board into the penultimate row and from one edge and move the entire sheet with a nail puller by 5-7 mm, then do this from the other edge.
• File the door frame on both sides (it is advisable to do this before laying the last 2-3 rows)

• Measure and cut the board (with any part of the lock in the middle - the left or right side of the structure). The geometry of the cut laminate or parquet board should be such that the cracks are covered by the frame and trim, but the board does not rest against the wall or frame anywhere.
• Insert the workpiece into the lock and carefully tap it to the extreme position, i.e. 5-7 mm from the normal position. If the geometry needs to be changed, do it.
• Measure and cut the next piece. Its geometry should be such that it fits into the short lock of the laid workpiece and fits into the remaining opening between the door frame. All cracks, in the end, should also be covered with the door frame and trim.
• Insert the workpiece into place. The following situation should result - the entire panel is shifted from the doorway by 5-7 mm, one board is placed under the door frame until it touches the wall, the other is laid in all the locks, but not under the door frame

• Next, you need to move two blanks along the canvas. This is done either by tamping or with a nail puller (if there is a stop).
• After this, using a nail puller, the entire canvas is shifted towards the doorway by 5-7 mm. It goes under the box. Do not forget about the distance for installing the threshold.

• Add the rest of the last row.

Note

Laying laminate or parquet boards in a doorway as described above is not an easy process.

Without experience, you can ruin more than one workpiece, but there is no need to despair - the one who walks will master the road.

Note

Even if the entire apartment is planned to be covered with one floor covering, thresholds are necessary. Our craftsmen periodically travel to sites where it is necessary to break up a single covering of several rooms, because... it rose like a wave.

If the room has built-in furniture that cannot be moved, it can be left in place and a covering can be laid around. In this case, all geometric adjustments must be made using cardboard templates.

Note

There are very complex geometric shapes, for example, going around a door frame when laying boards diagonally. Without a template it will be difficult even for experienced craftsmen.

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Instructions for laying laminate flooring

Step 1. Preparing to lay the laminate

Step 2. Row-by-row laying of laminate

Features of laying parquet boards

Laying laminate flooring with your own hands - brief instructions

Laying parquet boards diagonally

If, when laying the laminate, you have to go around a heating or water pipe, then you need to make a template of the laminate board from cardboard or drawing paper and attach it in place. By carefully cutting the board template, you can make an exact match between the pipe and the laminate board. Then, once again checking that the template is trimmed correctly, you need to cut out an exact match to the template on a real laminate board using a jigsaw and/or a hacksaw, rounding off the smooth lines with a rasp or round file. But you will still need to leave a small gap of 2-3 mm, and then cover this place with a decorative overlay. After laying the cut boards, continue to lay the laminate in the usual manner.

Naturally, laminate is not linoleum, and the person laying a very expensive coating wants to do everything beautifully, as they say for the soul!

If the pipe is close to the wall or not far from the wall, then I think it’s clear that you need to make a template out of cardboard, fit it as best as possible, transfer it to a laminate board, cut it out, lay it, and cover the minor defect with a decorative ring!

But this is understandable, as they say, everything is clear here, but if the pipe is at a significant distance from the wall, it’s worth cutting a long hole and then tinkering with the pieces - in short it will be the devil knows what!

No! In this case, you will have to ruin one of the laminate boards by cutting off the side lock from it at the required distance from the wall, and perhaps you already have leftovers of this size - you will need to cut holes from the two halves so that the locks close to form a perfect fit around the pipe - naturally, you first need to make a template, and then cut the laminate.

It looks like this, see photo, and after docking it is closed with decorative rings.

When we install laminate flooring in our home, we may encounter obstacles, for example, in the form of pipes. How to get around them? When we get to the pipes, we need to measure where to cut the holes in the laminate. It is best to take a sheet of paper, place it in place and mark the proposed holes. Then we transfer this template to the laminate and draw a circle. Now you can cut with a drill with a pen of the desired diameter.
Then use a hacksaw to cut the laminate in the center of the cut circle. Now you can lay the laminate as shown in the picture.