How to connect laminate laid in different directions. How to connect laminate flooring between rooms with and without thresholds. Laminate interlocking: plank materials

bends at the point of contact between two floor coverings look beautiful in design projects and in the photo, but to make them in real life very hard. In this tutorial, we will look at how to make a technological junction of tiles and laminate on straight and winding sections.

Most often, the joining of laminate and tiles has to be done in the following cases:

In the hallway and in the kitchen - in order not to spoil the laminate from moisture and increase the wear resistance of the coating;
For zoning a room;
Under the doorway.

Quick article navigation

Junction options

There are several ways to make a technological joining of laminate and tiles:

Flexible PVC profile - suitable for any curved bends. Consists of a base and a decorative nozzle.

Flexible metallic profile - most often used on curved sections, but it can also be used on straight seams. They are powder coated for durability.

Aluminum nut- best suited for mounting on a joint under the door leaf. It allows you to hide not only the expansion joint, but also to level the height differences. Some models are powder coated. There are several types of sills:
- Thresholds with holes for self-tapping screws - standard;
- With a hidden mount - look more beautiful;
- Self-adhesive - the easiest installation.
box threshold- it is installed to increase sound insulation, get rid of drafts and to protect against water leakage from the bathroom in the event of a flood. But doing this option is categorically not recommended: you will hardly notice much difference, but you will constantly stumble about the threshold 3 cm high.

According to the "Manual for the design of autonomous engineering systems single-family and semi-detached residential buildings” (Ventilation section, item 4.84) under interior doors there must be a gap of at least 2 cm for air to flow.

Solid T-Profile- a beautiful, but expensive pleasure for decorating straight seams. The cost can start from 600 rubles per running meter. It is usually used to decorate the junction of parquet with tiles. Installed with glue.

– a good option if you want to get a smooth join between laminate and tiles without a threshold. Laminate and tiles should be cut as evenly as possible, and a special cork sealant is inserted into the expansion joint. It costs about 200 rubles for 90 cm. This option has an obvious disadvantage - over time, dirt will get inside the cracks, which will need to be cleaned.

PVC transition profile- allows you to accurately draw a large height difference between the two coatings. First, a mounting profile is installed, and a plug is attached to it.

Mounting methods

Let's take a closer look at the installation features of each option.

Cutting tiles and laminate

When the seams between the two materials are straight, there are no problems with their adjustment, but it is difficult to trim the sinuous sections. To do this, you will need to make a template from improvised material (cardboard, polystyrene foam, etc.), on which to mark the future joint.

A curved cut on a laminate is done using a manual or electric jigsaw.
The tile can be cut to bends of any shape with a grinder diamond disc on a tile, or manually with a jigsaw / hacksaw with a diamond string. You can also drill as many holes as possible along the cut line, and break off the excess with wire cutters.

Installation of a flexible PVC profile

Installation instructions for flexible PVC profile

After laying tiles and laminate, there should be a gap, the thickness of which will allow you to install the fixing profile and leave a temperature gap of 5 mm next to the laminate.
Using a perforator, we drill holes for dowels in the expansion joint. If you have a warm floor passing through the seam, then you can use liquid nails for installation, but it is better to exclude such cases at the design stage.
We cut off the required length of the profile with a knife / hacksaw / jigsaw.
We fasten the fixing profile to the base with self-tapping screws.
Before laying the decorative flexible profile, you need to soften it. To do this, it fits into warm water(50-70 degrees) for 15-20 minutes.
The decorative cap is inserted into the mounting profile and snapped into place.

Installation of a flexible metal profile

Installation of aluminum sill

A regular nut with holes is installed as follows:

Cut the sill to the width of the doorway.
Mark the drilling points at the junction.
Drill holes, insert dowels and fasten the threshold to the screws on top.
To screw in the screws, use a screwdriver or a screwdriver with minimal torque, otherwise the nut will bend.

An important nuance: the measurement is done taking into account the casing, and not just between the two extreme points of the box. Then the nut is trimmed under the trim to avoid gaps.

Proper pruning

If the nut has a hidden mount:

Holes are marked on the base.
A self-tapping screw with a dowel is inserted into the groove on the wrong side of the nut.
Holes are made in the floor.
The nut with dowels on is inserted into the holes and hammered to the end. In order not to damage it, strike it through the block spacer.

The standard fastening has a significant drawback: the BM 6x40 dowel has a large gap between the cap and the threshold arch, so it will not be installed securely. To avoid this, it is better to take dowels 8x60 and grind off the hat on both sides for a snug fit.

To remove the backlash - take the dowel bigger size and file a hat

The easiest way is to put a threshold with a self-adhesive base:

Mark the contour of the sill on the floor covering to glue it evenly in the center of the joint.
Delete protective film from the self-adhesive base and stick it.

Conclusion

From a practical point of view, the appearance of additional thresholds at the junction is not very convenient - the floor becomes more difficult to wash and you can stumble on it.

Also keep in mind that the laminate must be laid in a floating way, so do not use sealants, grout or foam to fill the joints.

comments powered by HyperComments

No related posts found.

Laminate is the perfect covering for your floor, giving your space a complete and aesthetic look. right kind. But a poor-quality joint between laminate and laminate can spoil the whole picture.

Laminate joining tools

The basis of the material from which the laminate is made is chipboard. This means that under the influence of moisture it can swell, diverge and deform. Laminate, divergent and swollen from moisture, needs to be replaced. The answer to the questions of what to do and how to seal the joint is a gel sealant.

Below is a list of the minimum required for a successful flooring installation:

The main function of the gel sealant is to prevent moisture from entering joints, gaps and seams.

It is worth noting that the gel does not stick the seams, and if you need to disassemble the flooring, you can do it without much effort. Often, at the final stage of laying the coating, the question arises of how to join the laminate or how to seal the joint between the laminate and the laminate.

Why hide joints

The reasons for hiding the joint between the laminate and the laminate can be as follows:

In a separate room, a laminate with a different locking device is used and it is necessary to hide the joints of the laminate;
During the transition from one room to another, there is a difference in the joints of the laminate;
If in the laminate you need to select a zone according to the design idea;
The steps of the stairs are made using a floor covering;
In the event that the total area of the room is more than 64 m2, and according to the laying technology, it is necessary to make a compression seam, which must be closed.

In all of the above points, you need to use docking strips. This solution is considered the most correct, since with this method of closing the connecting seam, the necessary gap remains for temperature fluctuations.

The installed bar allows you to protect the ends of the coating and close the upper gap from all kinds of debris.

Types of laminate joining

Straight planks are used to join the laminate, which is at the same level relative to each other;
Leveling strips ensure the connection of coatings with different levels, not exceeding four millimeters;
Different-level strips allow you to join the laminate with a difference of up to two centimeters;
Corner strips connect steps, podiums, etc.

The connecting profile is necessary in order to hide the joint between the laminate and the laminate. Produced from various materials, it depends on the profile function.

The principle of choosing docking strips:

Laminated profile - made from chips pressed in a special way, which are covered with a laminated film, on which different patterns are subsequently applied. When it is necessary to make the connection of the coating as invisible as possible, the pattern is selected with a complete match with the pattern of the coating.
Metal strips - made of extra strong aluminum alloy, stainless steel or brass alloy, then the strip is covered with a specialized film. Products made using this technology have improved wear resistance and are used in places with a large flow of people.
Plastic profiles - these panels are used to close curved joints. The main advantages of these products are low price and a wide range colors, and the main disadvantage is a rather low service life.
The rubber bar is mainly produced in the form of corner profile and is used to decorate the steps of the stairs. This type of connection guarantees a safer operation of the flight of stairs and prevents the floor covering from spreading.

Everything connecting elements supplied with a mounting rail, which is used for concealed mounting. Mounting rails are attached to the base with glue or screws, and fasteners for self-tapping screws are more reliable because, if necessary, it can be removed and reused, but this is impossible when using glue.

But the metal profile, it is possible to install open way, you will need dowels and screws. It is for such cases where metal products during one of the stages of production, technological holes are made, and fasteners are included in the delivery set.

How to join laminate

How to close the joint between laminate and laminate:

A rail for inconspicuous mounting is mounted near the edge of the coating, attached using self-tapping screws;
The next one is sequentially placed on the other side of the plank;
A decorative strip is mounted in the mounting rail guide and latched using a rubberized hammer.

Cork filler as a replacement for the docking bar

An alternative to the use of all kinds of planks is the connection with a laminate using cork filler. Weak moment of this method are a necessity to have absolutely perfect surfaces to be bonded and a very high degree of exposure to moisture. Therefore, this method has found little fame.

Special attention when mounting a docking profile for a laminate, gaps should be given. After all, it is at the joints that you need to leave a gap of three to four millimeters. This gap compensates for the diverging torque as the temperature rises. Each person chooses how to choose the joint between laminate and laminate, this is a matter of taste and specifically your decision.

High-quality laminate, not subject to stress, serves for a long time, retaining all the declared functions. Laying a laminate is quite possible without specialized training, if you have and desire.

Laying laminate is not as easy as it seems at first glance. This process has a lot of nuances, the observance of which is important for the successful completion of the procedure. And the correct joining of the laminate between rooms, as well as with other coatings, just refers to these aspects. correct installation. The procedure is simple, but it is important to know how to join the laminate between rooms. Only with the necessary knowledge, it will be possible to create neat and beautiful floors.

How to dock laminate and tile - photo

This material, which is a rectangular long slats, which consist of several layers, is one of the most sought after floor coverings on the market. It is characterized by high strength, attractive appearance, ease of installation. The coating itself, created from a laminate, can serve for many years if strips of the appropriate quality were used for manufacturing, and they were correctly laid.

On a note! The thickness of one lamella varies between 9-11 mm. The width is 19.5 cm, and the length of the bar can be up to 185 cm.

The coating consists of several layers, its base is made of fiberboard, and other layers are located above and below it. From above, the coating is covered with a special protection made of melamine resin, under which there is a layer responsible for giving the material certain color(for example, imitation of a cut of wood or stone). The bottom layer also performs a protective function. Thanks to the top layer, the coating is not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays, moisture and other external factors.

Laminate does not like water, and its side, unlike the bottom or top, usually does not have moisture protection. That is why it is important to correctly lay the material so that there are no gaps between the individual lamellas. However, often when laying a flooring in an apartment between separate rooms or other rooms, you have to join the lamellas - it is not always possible to lay a laminate with one continuous cover. Also, this type of coating is often joined with other types of materials for finishing floors - for example, tiles, linoleum, etc.

On a note! Since laminate does not like water, it is rarely installed in rooms with high humidity. These are kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms. Ceramic tiles usually take their rightful place there. And it is also very important to properly and beautifully dock with the laminate.

Prices for laminate "Tarkett"

tarkett laminate

Why you need a connection

Why is it so important to correctly arrange the joints of the laminate between rooms? There are several correct answers to this question:

individual sections of the coating are sometimes easier to dock between rooms than to continue to lay out the coating all over;
according to the recommendations of experts, every 7-8 meters between the rows of laminate should be gaps about 10-15 mm wide. They are necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the slats;
jointing is necessary for joining different types laminate, the interlocks of which do not match;
the procedure is performed with a combination of lamellas of different colors or different coatings when zoning a room;
it is also indispensable in the design of steps, if the room has a podium.

By itself, the locking connection between the lamellas is quite strong and reliable; it will not allow individual parts of the coating to walk. But the laminate is a “live” coating, it is able to change its dimensions depending on the temperature and humidity of the air, either expanding or narrowing. That is why the presence of deformation gaps is necessary. Still, the laminate has in its structure a wood component, which reacts sharply to changes in humidity and temperature.

On a note! Such deformation gaps must also remain along the walls along the perimeter of the room. Otherwise, the coating may bulge over time.

Thus, it is necessary to do the joining of individual parts of the coating and not always the reason is that it is required to connect the floors in separate rooms. It will also look ugly if you leave different types of coatings without joining.

How to join laminate

Connecting individual laminate planks between two rooms can be done in several ways. It can be docking with locks, directly available on the lamellas, docking with thresholds, cork compensator or adhesive mixtures such as sealants or mounting foam.

lock connection suitable if the same planks of the coating are joined, having the same structure and height. Simply put, when lamellas from the same batch are used. In this case, the locks will match exactly. Also, the method is suitable for small premises, where additional compensation gaps between the coating areas are simply not needed.

Nuts are used more often than other elements for docking. This is due to the simplicity of their installation, availability and low cost - you can buy sills in any hardware store for little money. The profile is simply screwed or glued (depending on the type of product) to the gap remaining between the laid sections of the coatings. This gap will be sufficient so that the lamellas can easily expand if necessary, and the coating will not rear up. By the way, sills can be made from the most different materials, but standard metal ones are most often used. Their length can also vary.

On a note! With the help of thresholds, you can join a variety of types of floor coverings with each other, including laminate with ceramic tiles or laminate with linoleum.

It is usually used only to connect two sections of a laminated coating, less often - to connect different types of coatings. Such a product will allow you to avoid the presence of gaps on the floor at all, since cork is a rather soft material and will simply wrinkle when the coating expands, and when it shrinks, it will return to its original shape again. The cork compensator is laid already immediately after the installation of the entire coating - with the help of a small spatula, as it were, it is inserted into the cavity of the remaining gap. Usually the cork is not even visible to the naked eye, since the color rarely differs from the coating itself. And if necessary, it can be tinted with a marker or paint.

Sealant and foam are used less often as they can stain the surface of the coating. But on the other hand, with their help, you can hide gaps of any width and join sections of coatings that have rather bizarre shapes. It is important to immediately remove excess material after application, otherwise after drying they will leave ugly marks. The main disadvantage of the method is the impossibility of dismantling this section of the panels if necessary. Also, because of the sealant, the lamellas cannot expand, which means that the method can only be used in small areas.

Sometimes connecting elements are produced together with the laminate. They are ideal for joining individual sections of the coating. They cost, as a rule, more than universal connecting elements. Typically, only large and well-known manufacturers of laminated flooring produce such options.

Types of connecting strips

All connectors for individual sections of flooring can be divided into several categories. They are divided by the type of material from which they are made, as well as by shape.

Table. What can sills be made from?

Type / material of manufacture	Peculiarities
	This type of sills is made from pressed wood shavings, in other words, these are MDF moldings. They have a laminated coating on the top, which gives the desired color to the product. Usually selected in accordance with the texture of the lamellae. They allow you to discreetly and beautifully join individual sections of the laminate floor. The disadvantage is that MDF moldings are afraid of moisture.
	It can be made of several types of metal - aluminum, brass, steel. The surface has decorative coating, which is often done in gold, wood or silver. Due to the high strength of the product, they are usually installed in places with high traffic and a significant impact on the floor covering.
	Pretty flexible and suitable option for the design of curly joints between coatings. Such a threshold is made of plastic, it is inexpensive, it can be made in almost any color. The main drawback is the fragility, which is why such a threshold quickly loses its appearance.
	It usually looks like an angular profile and is used if you need to decorate the edges of stairs or podiums. Made from rubber. Strong, durable product with no sharp edges.
	A rather expensive option for sills, which is rarely used for joining laminate. It is more often used for the design of joints between individual sections of a natural wooden floor. The nut is difficult to care for, constantly requires varnishing and polishing.

Combined floor in the hallway - tiles and laminate

Also, profiles for decorating joints can have a different shape. They are:

direct- these are used to form joints between two types of laminate or between a laminate and other coatings. The main thing is that they have the same height, otherwise it will be inconvenient to fasten the sills;
transitional- this version of the nut is useful just for joining multi-level coatings;
corner- such a threshold is useful if you need to connect two perpendicular surfaces to each other, for example, when decorating podiums and stairs;
final– allow you to close the edge of the last lath of the laminate.

What to consider before starting installation work?

Before you start joining two separate sections of laminate flooring or joining it with another type of flooring, you should take into account several features and make sure that everything necessary requirements to the conditions of the work were met. For example, the installation of a laminate and its docking can only be carried out if the rough base is perfectly even. There shouldn't be any gaps.

On a note! The maximum horizontal deviation of the floor prepared for laying the laminate should not exceed 2 mm.

Also, do not lay and immediately acquired laminate. He must necessarily lie down in the room for two days before starting work. Otherwise, the coating will most likely heave over time, and even the presence of compensation gaps will not save the situation.

Installation of laminate can only be carried out at positive temperatures. Work begins from the farthest corner of the room from the exit. It is also recommended to orient the lamellas along the direction of incidence of light rays, so the joints between the lamellas will be minimally noticeable.

Mounting of connecting strips

Let's see how the installation of connector thresholds is carried out, which are necessary for joining individual sections of the laminate between rooms.

Step 1. The first step is to measure the threshold and doorway. It is necessary to make sure that the product enters the opening and completely closes the deformation gap along the entire length.

Step 2 The threshold is applied to the installation site, markings are applied through the holes in it, which will allow you to outline the drilling points of the rough base. Dowel holes should be drilled in the center of the gap and not on the surface of the laminate. The location of the nut is also noted.

Step 3 At the marking site, holes are made in the subfloor. The diameter of the drill should be optimal for the size of the dowels included with the nut.

Step 4 Dowels are inserted into the holes made in the floor.

Step 5 The sill is placed in its intended place.

Step 6 The strap is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into plastic dowels and tightened tightly.

On sale there are also sills with hidden fasteners. In this case, you will have to act as follows.

Step 1. As in the previous case, the threshold and doorway are measured, and then markings are applied to the subfloor in the places where the dowels will be inserted.

Step 2 The threshold with hidden fasteners has reverse side a groove into which the self-tapping screws are inserted. The dowels are screwed onto the self-tapping screws immediately.

Step 3 According to the previously applied marks, holes are made for the dowels.

Step 4 The nut is attached to the gap, which must be closed with it. Dowels fixed on self-tapping screws, moving along the groove, are inserted into the holes made by the perforator.

On a note! There are also self-adhesive sills on sale, with wrong side they have a special adhesive tape that allows you to fix the product in the right place.

Video - Nut mounting option

Joining laminate and tiles

If you need to join the laminate and tiles, you can proceed in exactly the same way as during installation metal sills, or you can use another version of the docking profile - a cork compensator.

Step 1. To install a flexible cork expansion joint, you will need to cut it not only to the required length of the doorway, but also in height so that it does not protrude above the surface of the coatings.

Step 2 The laminate at this stage has already been laid, you need to start laying the tiles. But first, the cork sill itself is glued to the base with the help of reliable building glue. First, glue is applied to the rough base along the edge of the laminate, on which the threshold is then laid, but is not temporarily pressed.

Step 3 Acrylic sealant is also used to seal the gaps between the cork compensator and the laminate. Then the cork compensator is pressed against subfloor and laminate.

Step 4 Excess sealant is removed with a sponge dipped in water. The surface is then wiped with a dry cloth.

Step 5 In the traditional way, on the other side of the cork compensator, ceramic tiles are laid on glue.

In general, joining laminate and tiles is necessary to achieve aesthetic harmony, extend the life of coatings, and protect the joint from water.

Video - Option for joining laminate and tiles

It is not difficult to join individual sections of a laminate or different types of floor coverings to each other. The main thing is to know how it's done. In general, if you follow the installation instructions, difficulties should not arise even for novice craftsmen.

What is the difference good repair from bad? Thoughtfulness of details. Very good and expensive material can be spoiled by little things. In the case of laminate, this is 100% true. Even such a nuance as a seam in the coating between two rooms, the junction of two laminates that are different in height or in the way of laying. All this requires a thoughtful approach. How to join a laminate, what methods and materials to use and we'll talk further.

The laminate is laid using floating floor technology. To ensure that it does not rise with changes in temperature or humidity, the coating should not have hard fastening points. To compensate for changes in size, a gap of about 1 cm is left around the perimeter of the rooms to the walls. Subsequently, it is closed with a plinth. Skirting boards are attached to the wall, not to the floor.

Even if the same type of laminate is laid in the rooms, with large areas it is better to doorway make a seam. It is needed all for the same purposes: so that when the dimensions of the planks increase, the seams do not swell. The seam usually runs under the door. When it's closed, you can't see anything at all. Even when the doors are open, a properly selected docking profile or threshold does not attract attention.

How to connect laminate between rooms

Where to make a laminate joint between rooms? It is most logical to connect laminate to laminate so that the seam is under door leaf. Then at closed door joints are not visible. If several doors enter the room, it is desirable to arrange all connections in the same way.

Between the rooms, the laminate is connected using:

connecting profiles;
thresholds;
cork compensator.

The connecting profile and the nut are not the same thing. It's two different types connectors. The thresholds can be used with any floor covering, but they differ in appearance, as they are usually made of a different material. The connecting profiles are produced by the same companies that make the laminate. They are covered with the same film that is used for laminating the plates. This allows you to choose a connecting strip for a laminate with an exact match in color and pattern (if you're lucky).

Connection profiles

How to join a laminate so that the seam is minimally noticeable? Using laminated joint profiles. They are made of aluminum alloy or MDF, covered with a film that covers the laminate. Connecting profiles for laminate consist of a guide and a decorative strip. The guide can be plastic or metal. It is attached to the floor with glue (plastic) or dowels (metal).

The decorative strip can be metal or MDF. In any case, the material is laminated with a film. This type of molding is produced by the same companies that make laminate. Colors and textures match the laminate. If your company does not produce such strips, you will have to take a sample and try to find it from other manufacturers.

By shape top bar, connectors can be straight (pictured top center) or rounded (pictured left). Straight lines are less noticeable, but materials of the same thickness should be joined. Rounded ones can be set at a slight angle, which makes it possible to join laminate of different thicknesses.

Straight butt profiles for joining laminate flooring come in one thickness. They are called direct or connecting. There are options for coatings of different thicknesses, they are called "transitional". They have different shelf heights. It is selected according to the thickness of the coating used.

The width of the bar can also be different. The wider it is, the greater the compensation gap can be made. Minimum Width strips 22 mm, maximum - 44 mm. Perhaps there are more or less, but they are very rare.

How to join laminate with sills

Thresholds for connecting floor coverings are a plank made of wear-resistant material. What distinguishes them from connecting profiles is that it is only a bar. It just closes the gap at the top.

Make sills from the following materials:

Metals and their alloys. Most often this aluminum alloys and brass. Coloring usually imitates one of the metals - brass, bronze, aluminum, etc. They can be shiny, matte, with a satin finish (semi-gloss), etc. There are options laminated with wood-like film, but they must be selected according to the color of the coating.
Made of wear-resistant plastic. There are many planks in brown tones, there are colored ones, with imitation of wood.
Wooden. Sold unpainted, you can try to choose the color yourself.

In order for the sills to look normal and not “scratch” the eyes, they are selected to match one of the mating coatings. Before joining the laminate, take samples of your coatings and go in search of the sills. Neither by eye nor by photo you will understand which of the options will be optimal. Only by attaching to a specific material can you choose.

Without "trying on" you will not understand which one is better.

According to the type of fastening, the sills are hidden or open-mounted. Open-mounted - with through holes in the bar in which the fasteners are installed. Fasteners - self-tapping screws. It is desirable to select their color to match the color of the nut, and the shape of the cap should be conical and straight on top. If there is no fasteners in the kit, it is better to take a bar or a piece of it with a hole to the store with you. There you can "try on" different screws and choose the best option.

One of the sills is a gap-closing profile. And all

Flush-mounted thresholds are usually made of metal. More often made of aluminum and brass, can be found from of stainless steel(for the price of an airplane wing). It is better if the aluminum is anodized - it does not change color longer. Aluminum can be laminated with a woodgrain film, which increases the chances of making the joint less noticeable. Fasteners are included with the strap. It must have a certain shape of the cap - so that they go into the groove.

Cork expansion joints

If you do not like the sills, you can put a cork in the seam. There are special cork compensators. They are usually used when laying parquet. In width, they can be 7-12 mm, in height - 15, 18, 20 and 22 mm. Cork strips are painted and polished. Cork compensators are sold in pieces of 90 cm, 120 cm. You can also find strips 3 m long.

Cork compensators are laid when one of the coatings has already been laid, and the second will be mounted. This is convenient if the doors open onto the corridor, and two coverings from different laminates are connected, moreover, with different laying directions.

To install a cork compensator, you will need wood glue and silicone sealant (preferably transparent, it is almost imperceptible). We apply glue on the floor in a zigzag or two parallel strips, install a strip of cork and press it. We take silicone, bend the cork, coat the joint with the laminate, return the compensator to its place, press it.

When the second coating reaches the joint, the laminate cut must be smeared with silicone - this will protect against moisture and debris. Be sure to remove excess silicone immediately, otherwise they can then be torn off the cork only by damaging the surface. So, once again: we glue the bottom of the cork strip with universal glue, which glues wood and concrete (if you have concrete), and glue the sides with a sealant to the cuts of the flooring.

Installation of thresholds in the seam of the laminate

Read the installation instructions before making a joint between a laminate and a laminate threshold. It is usually included in the package. There may be some nuances, but in general, the order is the same. We will describe the general sequence of actions.

Connecting laminate flooring between rooms with a flush-mounted threshold

When installing a flush-mounted threshold, the bar is cut to the desired length. Holes are drilled in the seam, in the middle between the two coatings. Dowel plugs are installed in them. The dowel heads are inserted into the groove on the plank and distributed along the plank so that they are opposite the holes. It is more convenient to press the bar to one of the door jambs, turn it sideways, set the screws in this position.

If there is a self-adhesive layer on the bar, the protective film is removed. If there is no such layer, a thin strip is applied to the edges silicone sealant. It is better to choose a sealant that, after drying, remains elastic, and not hard. Such a seal will not collapse from periodic loads (when someone steps on the threshold).

Then we turn the bar with the fasteners installed, and carefully, from top to bottom, lower it into the holes. If the fasteners are set incorrectly, an assistant will be required. One person holds the bar, the second adjusts the position of the screws. When all the screws are in the holes, take rubber mallet or a hammer and a piece of wood and, with their help, we seat the threshold in place.

Docking laminate with laminate between rooms with an open-mounted threshold

You can close the joint of the laminate with an ordinary threshold. First of all, we measure desired length strips, cut with a hacksaw. We clear the junction of debris. We apply the threshold as it will lie. Using a pencil or marker, we put marks on the floor through the holes for installing fasteners. We hold the pencil strictly perpendicular. Even a slight deviation can bring installation problems.

We take a drill, insert a drill. Diameter - 1 mm less than the diameter of the fastener. We drill holes in each of the marks. The drill, again, is vertical.

We install plastic dowel plugs into the holes, hammer them so that they are flush with the floor. Apply a layer of silicone sealant on the sides of the nut strip. Turn the plank over and put it in place. It must be lowered from top to bottom. Lateral movements are undesirable due to the possibility of smearing silicone. We take the screws, insert them from above, tighten them.

If during installation silicone squeezed out from under the bar, immediately take a damp cloth and wipe everything without residue. As long as it has not polymerized, it is removed without problems. After a few minutes, it can be difficult to achieve a clean surface.

Now you know how to join a laminate with the help of thresholds. It's not all that difficult.

Laying laminate without thresholds throughout the apartment

Not everyone likes laminate joints, no matter how you arrange them. IN small apartments you can lay this coating with a continuous carpet. But the maximum length without thresholds is 10 meters, and the width is 8 meters. Different manufacturers may have differences in the maximum allowable laying without connecting seams, but not by much.

Even if this is possible in your apartment, it is not very convenient if you need to repair the laminate. The fact is that the laminate can be deformed, rubbed, etc. When laying with joints, it is easier to get to the desired fragment and replace it. If there are no joints throughout the apartment, for any replacement you will have to sort through everything from the very end. Very uncomfortable, though not fatal.

Still, laying laminate without joints throughout the apartment requires a thoughtful development of a laying plan. After all, there are no joints, you have to think which of the schemes will be the most convenient.

Despite the widespread belief that laying laminate flooring is a simple and labor-intensive process, certain difficulties often arise during the installation of the coating. Especially often people are faced with a problem when it is necessary to connect one laminated coating to another. Such situations often arise, because in some cases the same model of laminate flooring rarely fits in all areas of the house.

As a rule, it is necessary to join a laminate with a laminate only in two cases:

When to lay coatings in different rooms and it is necessary to dock them beautifully so that there is no sharp transition;
When inside one room you need to make a beautiful transition from coating to coating (for example, to zone a room).

It is worth noting that in last years joining two types of laminate flooring has become common design solution, which allows you to bring non-standard and originality to the interior of the room.

If in the same room or at the junction of adjacent rooms it is planned to subsequently connect two laminated coatings, then it must be foreseen that the subfloors were perfectly even.

If the subfloors are even, then you must also take into account the fact that different laminate can have a different thickness, which varies from 6 to 12 mm. The best option– purchase of floor coverings, underlayment, heat-insulating and sound-insulating materials of the same thickness. In addition, technological cakes (substrate, insulating layers, film, etc.) must also be made using the same technology so that there is not even the slightest difference in height. It is also not recommended to join laminated floors from different manufacturers, which will differ in wear resistance class and, as a result, operational life.

How to connect laminate flooring?

In fact, there are several fairly simple and uncomplicated ways to connect laminate-laminate. The most common of these are:

The easiest option is to install two types of laminate flooring from the same manufacturer. In this case, as a rule, the laminate in both the first and second cases will have the same locking system, so joining panels of two different types will be extremely simple. Great option in such a situation - the purchase of different decors (for example, dark and light) from one collection of a particular manufacturer. True, this method is suitable if you need to join the laminate in the same room.

If the connection of laminated coatings is carried out at the junction of two rooms (for example, in a doorway), then between the materials it is necessary to provide for the presence technological clearance. If it is not there, then there is a high probability of formation of defects, swelling and a decrease in the life of the laminate floor.

The use of thresholds. In most cases, thresholds are used to connect two laminated coatings. With the help of modern docking profiles, you can make smooth and subtle transitions between two types of coatings. Thresholds also allow the formation of a small gap, which is necessary for thermal expansion. wooden material. Connecting thresholds can be made of plastic, metal, wood - the choice of one or another type will depend on the stylistic decision in the room and the preferences of the owners.

In addition, many manufacturers of laminate floors, along with the laminate, also produce connecting thresholds. Of course, they will cost much more than the traditional options presented in specialized stores, but in terms of style and harmony of the transition, such a solution would be the most correct. Such products can be found at Quick-Step, Pergo, Tarkett, EPI, Alloc and other major manufacturers.

Not so long ago, cork expansion joints appeared on the construction market, with which you can easily connect two different models laminated floors. The main advantage of this method is the absence of a gap as such. The cork insert completely fills the gap between the materials. The cork insert is installed after the installation of the laminate flooring. It is enough to cut the compensator, roughly fit it to the size of the gap, and then insert it.

In most cases, externally cork compensator in the transition will be invisible, because. its tone is neutral. If the cork insert is noticeable and catches the eye, then it can be painted over with a marker suitable color or special paint to get a more or less similar shade.

The use of construction mounting foams and sealants, which are available in a wide variety of stores, to connect two laminates is not a very common solution. At the same time, with their help, you can remove the joint between panels of different sizes.

The main disadvantages of such a solution to create a connection between the coatings are: it will not be possible to dismantle the panel without damage that is in contact with the sealant; if there is a sealant or foam at the junction between the coatings, the material will not be able to expand when exposed to temperature, which will cause damage to the boards and reduce the life of the floor.

Conclusion

By and large, there should not be any special problems when connecting two types of laminated coatings (especially when using thresholds and a cork compensator). In the event that you need to join the floors without using any additional means, or the work needs to be carried out in a large room and the joint should turn out to be long enough, then the process is best entrusted to specialists. In addition, a professional approach is needed if there are serious differences in height between the two coatings.