The problem of choosing what to hem the rough ceiling wooden beams, always arises during the construction of wooden log houses, timber buildings, frame cottages, dachas and even extensions to the main premises. It will be necessary to select the material and method of installation on the ceiling base so as to ensure its reliable fastening to the supporting joists, and any shrinkage or deformation processes that accompany all wooden buildings do not lead to subsidence or deformation of the load-bearing structures.

Materials for filing floors

Wooden beams remain today universal remedy for arranging the ceiling, they are light and durable, relatively easy to process, cut, and drill. Any type of fastener can be driven into the wood; installation and installation work does not require powerful lifting equipment.

But wooden beams, like any wood, with all their advantages, have two significant disadvantages:

A beam or log, even if it has undergone careful processing, still remains susceptible to thermal deformation, shrinkage, and shrinkage, which can ultimately lead to breakage of the fastening for hemming the ceiling in wooden house;
The plane formed by the lower edges of wooden beams, even with the most careful leveling of the supporting surface of the walls, always remains uneven. Therefore, the material planned for the rough lining of the ceiling in a wooden house must have maximum strength.

For your information! The last point is extremely important for high-quality filling of the rough ceiling. Usually correct hemming with a long wooden strip, OSB board or plywood allows you to dramatically increase the rigidity of the structure.

The most difficult situation is with large rooms. The problem of how to make a rough ceiling in a private house using wooden beams of large elongation is always aggravated by the fact that the load-bearing wooden logs or double boards always bend under their own weight, the weight of insulation and attic furniture.

Therefore, it is important not only to choose the right way to hem the ceiling in a private house, but also to choose a method for attaching the hem to the beams. Ideally, the material should be laid in such a way as to compensate for any deflections of the rough floor, or at least make them invisible.

Materials for laying on wooden beams

To file a rough ceiling, several of the most accessible and easy-to-process materials are used:

Edged board 20-25 mm thick with a sanded and untreated surface;
OSB boards with non-laminated surface;
Plywood fabric;
Old laminate.

All of the listed materials are made on the basis of wood chips, which, after deep processing using pressure and chemical reagents, still maintains the coefficient of thermal expansion within the characteristics of construction wood.

Plasterboard sheets, for all their advantages, are not suitable for fastening directly to wooden beams of the rough floor. A transition frame is needed.

In this case, in order to install a rough plasterboard ceiling on ceiling beams, you will need to install metal carcass from thin sheet profile.

There are quite a few alternative options materials. Before hemming the ceiling base in a private house with expensive plywood or clapboard, you can use an old wooden lath from the facade of the building or even trimming cladding panels.

The old dismantled laminate can be used as a backing material for the rough ceiling. Usually owners throw it away or use it for flooring in the most unexpected places. Slats treated with oil varnish can solve the problem of choosing how to sew up a ceiling on beams in a small room.

Plank lining of the rough ceiling on wooden beams

Most suitable option Binders have to be selected based on the characteristics of the building, the method of its insulation, the presence of a warm or cold attic space, the material of the walls, and the humidity of the atmosphere inside the box.

The ideal option for a rough ceiling may well be considered to be padding the wooden floor beams with a regular shalevka or edged board.

There are three most proven flooring methods:

Fastening long boards along the lower ends of the rough floor;
Installation of boards on skull strips;
Flooring by outer surface wooden beams.

At first glance, the material options are not much different, but this is not entirely true; there are certain differences. Before hemming the rough ceiling along the beams, you need to pay attention to the structure of the attic and ceiling.

Laying a wooden batten along the upper plane of the beam is used only in case of a serious need to increase the height of the ceiling or arrange attic premises winter type. In this case, to reduce losses, the floor is insulated with an additional layer mineral wool over the rough sheathing of wooden beams. Removing the logs from the insulation layer reduces heat loss and significantly improves vapor barrier.

The classic version of lining the ceiling on wooden beams

Tongue and groove boards are rarely used for rough coatings due to the high price. In the simplest case, an edged board is used to file the floor. But there are exceptions, in frame buildings rough ceilings can be hemmed wooden clapboard or floorboard.

The shalevka is cut to size, sewn to the length of the overlap and sanded along the back and front parts. This option turns out to be cheaper than if you purchase edged or, especially, tongue and groove boards. At first glance, the material used for arranging a rough ceiling does not have to be sanded or processed using a jointer. In fact, removing coarse lint from wooden surface, remaining after cutting, significantly reduces the consumption of antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants.

If the distance between the beams does not exceed 60 cm, then the board can be hit directly on a wooden beam. In this case, the material should be laid on the rough ceiling perpendicular to the direction of laying the ceiling. If the room is large enough, and the distance between the beams is more than a meter, then you will need to sew additional sheathing from cut inch boards to reduce the distance to 40 cm.

The only problem that you have to face when arranging a rough ceiling is the difficulty of holding the board on wooden beams at outstretched arms. If you have to work alone, then adjustable scaffolding, homemade wooden supports or carpentry clamps come to the rescue. The laid board is carefully pressed to remove the gap, and secured with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

In the same way, a rough ceiling is assembled from a tongue-and-groove floorboard or wooden lining.

The advantage of filing a rough ceiling on cranial beams

You can also make a hem for the ceiling surface using cranial wooden blocks. This wooden slats with a cross section of 40x40 mm, sewn on both sides of the beam along its entire length. The rough ceiling is made from short wooden planks or scrap boards laid on cranial supports along the entire length of the ceiling.

U similar method Binders have their advantages:

Laying the material can be done independently, without assistants, while the worker is located directly on the ceiling from the attic side, so it is much more convenient to lay the lining material than to lift it with outstretched arms above his head;
The stacked ceiling is much simpler option tamping long boards along the entire length of the floor. You can always remove one or two boards in order to check the condition of the insulation or lay additional communications.

The technology of laying a rough ceiling on cranial blocks also has its own rather serious disadvantages. Firstly, the dimensions of the support rail-bar must be at least 40x40 mm, otherwise the weight of the filing will simply push it through. Secondly, the thickness of the insulation of the rough ceiling is reduced by the height of the support. Otherwise, the floor surface will need to be raised by the same 40 mm.

Thirdly, the horizontal dimension between wooden beams is automatically reduced by 80mm, resulting in deterioration of vapor permeability, most of which is not removed through the ventilation gap, but will linger on the sub-ceiling.

Another factor is that short boards do not in any way affect the strength and rigidity of the rough ceiling. Conversely, long hemming significantly improves the load-bearing capacity of the timber, so it is recommended to hem very elongated ceilings without the use of cranial supports.

Lining with plywood, OSB and fiberboard

Of the three materials used for lining sub-ceilings, fiberboard is considered the weakest, but due to its light weight, fiberboard can be installed or laid on wooden beams alone, without assistants.

Fiberboard ceiling

Lining with wood-fiber material is used as a rough base before installing suspended ceiling membranes, pasting foam tiles, stucco moldings, all types decorative finishing having low weight.

If wooden beams made of hewn logs are laid on the walls, then before assembling the rough ceiling, a sheathing of thin slats with a section of 20x60 mm must be placed on the lower edge. If you attach the wood fiber web directly to uneven surface logs, the surface will be crooked and uneven.

Lining wooden beams with plywood

To construct a rough ceiling, plywood up to 10 mm thick is used. The material can be laid in any order, directly on the beams, without any crate or intermediate rail.

If the ceiling surface will be further finished, painted or tinted under a solid wood cladding, then the joints and seams between the coatings are sealed with a special paste prepared from painted birch shavings and oil varnish.

Before laying the material, the seams and edges are sealed with adhesive tape so that the varnish does not get on front side, otherwise stains and streaks will remain on the plywood due to poor toner absorption.

Using OSB boards

Arranging a backing layer on wooden beams using OSB boards rightly considered one of the most optimal options rough ceiling filings. The cost of a 10 mm thick slab is approximately half the price of plywood, despite the fact that the strength of OSB is sufficient to hold the insulation layer, and correct fastening, at least five screws for every 20 cm of wooden beam length, the panel can withstand a weight of up to 100 kg per square meter.

Conclusion

The technology of laying a draft ceiling on wooden beams is available to all novice finishers in terms of complexity. Anyone who has ever dealt with the installation of rails and boards, without resorting to the services of hired workers. Of course, before proceeding with the equipment of the draft ceiling, it would be right to think over the entire technology for performing work, especially in terms of transferring the floor material and temporarily holding it until it is completely fixed.

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Ceiling in a private house: 13 steps to comfort and practicality

This article is about how to make a ceiling in a private house. In it, I am going to touch upon the problems of choosing the height of the ceiling, its structure and the selection of materials for its installation and design. Let's get started.

Height

Minimum

What is the minimum possible ceiling height in a private house??

2.4 meters. By reducing the height even more, you will make the living rooms downright uncomfortable: the ceilings will literally put pressure on the inhabitants of the house, forcing them to constantly bend down.

By the way: already at a height of 2.4 - 2.5 meters, a person above average height will begin to cling to his head hanging chandeliers and lamps. Personally verified: with a height of 186 cm, it is quite difficult for me to move freely in a typical Khrushchev or Brezhnevka apartment with hanging light sources.

Optimum

What is optimal height ceiling in the house?

If we talk only about the subjective perception of the room - the more, the better. A tall room, even with a relatively small area, looks spacious. However, with significant ceiling heights in full height, excuse the involuntary pun, the heating problem arises.

Warm air tends upward, and in order to provide comfortable temperature at floor level, under the ceiling it will have to be heated to +30 +35C. Excessive air heating attic floor means an unjustified increase in heat losses: they are always proportional to the temperature delta with the street.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

For convection heating (using or convectors) - limiting the ceiling height to approximately 2.7 meters. In my opinion, this height represents a reasonable compromise between comfort and heat savings;

Clue: standard height ceilings in new buildings are exactly this - 2.7 meters. In most houses of Soviet projects it is noticeably smaller - 2.6, 2.5 and even 2.45 m.

In addition, heat distribution in a high room will be optimal in the case of a heated floor - water, cable or film. It will provide a comfortable temperature at the level of human height, without overheating the air near the ceiling.

By the way: in houses with second light, warm floors and infrared heaters are generally the only heat sources capable of providing a comfortable temperature regime. When using convection heating, either heat at the second floor level or bitter cold below will be inevitable.

House with second light. The only reasonable way of heating is underfloor heating.

Higher, even higher

How to increase the height of ceilings in the house?

If you have panel or monolithic reinforced concrete floors, you can only change the visual perception of the height of the room using tools from the designers' arsenal.

Which ones exactly?

Light colors make objects appear further away than they really are. The effect is emphasized by the contrasting colors of surrounding objects. Simply put, if you paint the ceiling in White color, and make the walls dark - the room will look much larger than its actual size;

The same effect can be achieved by playing with lighting. To increase the apparent height of the ceiling, it is organized hidden backlight spotlights or spotlights.

Ceilings on wooden beams give much more room for a real increase in the height of the premises.

If the ceiling is hemmed from above along the bottom of the beams, it is worth removing the hemming (usually a board panel) and laying the flooring between the beams, along the cranial bars, or on top of them. Yes, and here the effect will be largely visual, since the beams will be only two to three centimeters higher than the old filing; however, the room will become much more spacious.

More radical way- physical increase in the height of the ceiling. To do this, alas, it is necessary to remove the roof, so the work should be timed to coincide with major renovation roofs. The height of the walls increases due to several additional rows of masonry or new frame crowns laid on top of the walls.

The log house can also be raised on jacks by starting under it an additional one or two crowns.

Finally, in houses with a floor on wooden beams, it is often practiced to dismantle them with the laying of an insulated screed on the ground. The disadvantage of this method is that windows and thresholds doorways will rise noticeably relative to the level of the finished floor.

How to raise ceilings this way?

The floor is opened with complete dismantling flooring and insulation;

Beams are cut off;
The soil is removed and leveled;

The subfloor cannot be deepened below the foundation level. This is fraught with soil subsidence and wall deformation.

A sand or sand-gravel cushion with a thickness of at least 10-15 centimeters is formed on the ground. It will ensure drainage and avoid freezing of the soil under the floor;
A layer of waterproofing is spread over the sand, overlapping the walls (as a rule, dense polyethylene plays this role);
Laid out on top concrete preparation- a cushion 8-10 centimeters thick made of low-quality (M-100 - M150) concrete;

After it gains strength, a layer of insulation is laid on top - expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam with a density of C-35. Thickness is determined by local climatic conditions. Usually it is 40-50 millimeters;
On top of another layer of waterproofing film on stands 15-25 mm high, galvanized reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm is laid out;
It is filled with a screed 8-10 cm thick. After it has gained strength and leveled the surface in any convenient way (self-leveling floor, plywood, etc.), the finishing coating can be laid.

Concrete should come into contact with the wood of the walls only through the waterproofing. In its absence, the lower crowns of the log house or the frame of the walls will quickly rot.

Materials and solutions

Reinforced concrete floors

What finishing options are used for slab and monolithic reinforced concrete floors??

The simplest (but not the cheapest) way to make the ceiling perfectly flat is to order a stretch ceiling. In Crimea, where I live, it will cost from 400 rubles per square meter. It is useful for the future owner to know several features of this solution:

The minimum distance from the ceiling to the web of the tension flow is about 4 centimeters. Accordingly, the room will become, albeit slightly, lower;

The tension force of the canvas is about 70 kgf per linear meter of the baguette, which is attached to the walls. Accordingly, all walls must have sufficient strength in relation to the horizontal load. Plasterboard partitions are built with a reinforced frame, and the boxes multilevel ceilings made of plasterboard for fastening the baguette, reinforced with bevels from the profile;

Glossy ceilings are made from the thinnest vinyl film. For its tension, the air in the room is heated by a gas heat gun to 65 - 75 degrees; After cooling, the canvas is stretched and made perfectly even.

Gloss visually makes the room taller due to the ghostly reflection of its interior, which is a definite plus. However, the thin film is not durable: it can even be damaged by a shot of a champagne cork;

Matte fabric ceilings cheaper and more durable than glossy ones. However, due to the peculiarities of joining the canvases, the seams remain visible on them;
If you plan to hide under stretch ceiling hidden lamps, platforms for them and electrical wiring must be installed in advance. At the location of the lamp, a reinforcing ring is glued to the canvas, after which the fabric or film inside the ring is cut out.

The ceiling under the suspended ceiling should be pre-treated with antiseptic primer. A fabric that is impermeable to air will limit the ventilation of the surface of the slabs or monolith, and it is advisable that fungus does not take advantage of this.

How to finish reinforced concrete floor, if suspended ceilings are undesirable for some reason (for example, due to the small height of the room)?

The most obvious way is to level the ceiling gypsum plaster(Rotband, HP Start and so on) followed by puttying on the fiberglass mesh.

In this case, do-it-yourself finishing is done like this:

The ceiling is cleaned of whitewash and old plaster (of course, if there is any). This work is easiest to do with a hard steel spatula, having previously moistened the surface abundantly with water two or three times with a small interval using a spray gun or a wide brush;
The slab ceiling is cut (cleaned of cement mortar old seal) seams. Tools - chisel and hammer or small pick;
The entire surface of the ceiling is primed with adhesive primer (concrete contact) with the addition of an antiseptic;
Beacon profiles are attached to the ceiling level, in one horizontal plane. To attach them, it is better to use building plaster rather than plaster or putty - it sets in 3-7 minutes, and not in 30-40;
The plaster is thrown or spread onto the ceiling with a medium trowel or rectangular trowel. After the 1-1.5 meter long section between the profiles is filled, the excess is removed using a long rule. As a rule, you will have to go through each section several times, with re-filling the gaps;

The layer of plaster should not be thicker than 3 cm. If the differences between the floor slabs exceed this value, it is better to choose a suspended or suspended ceiling.

After drying the plaster, we move on to puttying. Gypsum putty (personally, I liked ABS Saten the most) is applied with a narrow (10-12 cm) spatula to a medium one (30-35 cm) and spread onto the ceiling with sliding movements in the thinnest layer possible.

After puttying a section 1 - 1.5 meters long, a sheet of reinforcing fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 mm is pressed into the putty with the same spatula. The second layer of putty covers the fiberglass mesh, completely hiding its texture;

The last stage is sanding. I use an inexpensive oscillating sander for this purpose with #80 and #120 sanding grids for the first and second passes respectively.

You need to sand the ceiling under oblique lighting, emphasizing the slightest irregularities, and with the obligatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. Gypsum dust severely irritates the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.

Which ceiling is better to install in a room with high humidity - a bathroom, toilet or combined bathroom?

Here are the types of finishes that are most resistant to dampness:

The suspended ceilings I have already mentioned;
Plaster ceilings using cement mixtures. The technology for their application is no fundamentally different from gypsum. If gypsum gets wet at high humidity and becomes plastic, then cement completely retains its mechanical properties;

To level the surface of the plaster, use putty on white cement. It will show through the paint much less.

Suspended - from wall and ceiling plastic panels.

How to build a ceiling from panels?

For this you will need:

Ceiling guide profiles UD (27x28 mm) with a total length equal to the perimeter of the room with a small margin for trimming;
CD ceiling profiles (60x27 mm) with a length equal to or greater than the length or width of the room (they come in 3- and 4-meter lengths). Their quantity should allow the installation of the sheathing with a pitch of no more than 60 centimeters - with a larger sheathing pitch, the plastic panels will sag within 1 - 1.5 years;

Hint from the Captain Obvious: the sheathing is mounted perpendicular to the panels. The maximum length of the panels can reach 6 meters, so they are usually oriented parallel to more long wall rooms.

Direct hangers are attached along each ceiling profile in increments of no more than 80 cm;
For their fastening and for mounting the ceiling guide profile, dowels are used - screws 6x60 - 8x80 mm;
The profiles are connected to each other and to the hangers using metal screws 9 mm long. Using the same self-tapping screws, but already 25 mm long, they are hemmed to the panel profiles;
The suspended ceiling itself is assembled from polyvinyl chloride wall or ceiling panels of the maximum available width with seamless tongue-and-groove locks;

Opt for white glossy panels. They are visually almost indistinguishable from a glossy stretch ceiling; at the same time, they are much stronger and extremely easy to clean: the surface can be wiped with a damp sponge and any non-abrasive detergent.

To edge the ceiling and to hide its junction with the walls, you can use vinyl, polyurethane or foam plinth. The latter is the cheapest and easiest to install: it can be glued to walls and ceilings using any universal glue, sealant or acrylic putty.

Preparation of the ceiling surface is reduced only to treatment with antiseptic primer: a suspended ceiling, like a suspended ceiling, will sharply worsen its ventilation and can lead to fungal infection.

The construction of the ceiling is carried out in the following order:

Along the perimeter of the room in a horizontal plane, a ceiling guide profile is attached to the wall. Fastening step - 50 - 60 cm;
The position of the ceiling profiles is marked perpendicular to the panels on the ceiling;
Along each of them, in increments of 80 cm, straight hangers are attached with dowel-screws;
Ceiling profiles, cut to size using metal scissors, are inserted into the guides and pressed against the ceiling with the ears of the hangers bent inward;
Several threads are stretched between the guide profiles, which will serve as guides for installation of ceiling profiles in one plane. Each of them is lowered until it touches the thread, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears bends upward;
Ceiling profiles are screwed to the guides;

The first panel, cut to fit the ceiling, is attached parallel to one of the walls.

Hint: It is most convenient to cut PVC with a grinder with any abrasive disc. And in this case, eye and respiratory protection is important: fine plastic dust evenly fills the entire volume of the room and settles very slowly.

The panel is attached to the profile at a minimum distance from the wall using self-tapping screws. On the other side of the panel, self-tapping screws attract the protrusion of its tongue-and-groove lock to the profile;
The next panel is inserted into the lock first, after which its protrusion is also attracted to the ceiling profile with self-tapping screws - and so on across the entire width of the room;
The last panel is again secured with self-tapping screws passing through it at a minimum distance from the wall. The fastener caps will be hidden by the ceiling plinth;
The plinth is glued last, after completion fine finishing walls

Beam ceilings

What is a rough ceiling on beams made of??

Here are the basic materials for filing a rough ceiling:

Edged and unedged boards. A plank board is usually used to lay insulation on it. The board can either be hemmed to the beams from below, or laid between them, on the cranial bars;

tongue and groove board;
Plywood 10 - 18 mm thick (depending on the pitch between the beams);
OSB of the same thickness.

What to make a finished ceiling from?

Here are the finishing materials that can be used for this purpose:

Plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheet;

It is better to use not GVL, but gypsum board. Even if the sheet breaks during transportation or installation, it can be used: the fragments of the gypsum core will be held in one plane by a kraft paper shell. It is enough just to securely fasten the plasterboard in the area of damage.

Wooden lining;
Plastic wall panels already familiar to us;
Plywood. Yes, yes, it can serve as a decorative finishing coating. Plywood cut into squares is varnished; The gaps between adjacent sheets are closed with strip strips painted in a contrasting color.

How to lay a rough ceiling using cranial blocks?

Its device is not complicated:

On side surfaces the logs are filled with bars measuring 50x50 mm;
A 20-25 mm thick edged board cut to length (depending on the distance between the joists) is laid on them;

With the same success, you can hem the flooring with wall panels. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws through the protrusions of the locks or sit on glue. The starting profile or plastic corner acts as the edging.

How to hem a board panel along the beams from below?

Each board is attached to the beam at the point where they intersect with two nails driven staggered (at an angle with a slope in different directions). This method of fastening will prevent the weight of the ceiling and insulation from tearing out the fasteners.

How to do wooden ceiling with your own hands from clapboard on beams?

The lining is fastened through clamps - galvanized steel shaped plates. It is better to fasten them to the beams with self-tapping screws. Clamps allow, if necessary, to disassemble the ceiling without damaging the lining.

A galvanized clamp is a simple device for fastening a tongue-and-groove lining lock to the sheathing.

The ceiling edging is traditionally made of wooden plinths. Transverse gaps between boards connected along their length are hidden with thin slats.

How to fix drywall?

It is attached to a solid board panel with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-25 centimeters. But when installing along beams or rafters (in the attic or attic) under gypsum boards or gypsum fiber boards, you will have to assemble the sheathing. I mounted it like this:

A vapor barrier film was lined along the rafters with insulation laid between them (5 cm of mineral wool and 5 cm of foam plastic with a density of C-25). The goal is to prevent the insulation from getting wet and the rafters from rotting. A furniture stapler was used to file the film;

The UD ceiling guide profile was attached to the gables. In my case they are panoramic windows, so the profile had to be attached directly to the plastic frames;
Along the attic, a ceiling profile was attached to the rafters using direct hangers. At the junctions of the inclined and horizontal sections of the ceiling, two profiles were mounted next to each other;
GKL sheets were fastened across the sheathing profiles. I used 12.5mm thick wall plasterboard instead of the thinner ceiling plasterboard as the bottom of the sloping sections of the ceiling are only 1.9m high and can be subject to mechanical stress. For fastening, phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long were used in increments of 15 - 20 cm;

The seams were puttied with ABS gypsum putty and glued with rolled fiberglass mat mounted on PVA glue, after which they were covered with another layer of putty.

The way the ventilation of the space above the ceiling is arranged deserves special mention. Air sampling is organized from there exhaust fan through one of the attic gables; At its corners, four supply ventilation grilles are installed in the finished ceiling.

The photo shows grilles for ventilation of the space between the ceiling and the roof of the attic.

For painting plasterboard thread we used:

In dry rooms - office and bedroom - latex water-dispersion paint, resistant to dry abrasion;
In the bathroom there is waterproof rubber paint on water based. It reliably protects the plasterboard from splashes of water and can be washed with any cleaning agents except abrasive ones. The texture of the painted surface is semi-gloss, with a slight shine.

Conclusion

Of course, in a relatively short article I did not mention everything possible solutions. The video in this article will help our dear reader learn more about how to cover a ceiling in a private house. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

Wooden beams are one of the types of the base of the interfloor ceiling in a house. They are installed with their ends on load-bearing walls, and the gaps between them are closed with boards or sheet, panel or plate materials. Depending on whether the beams will be decorative elements of the interior space of the premises, they are either left inside, sheathed on top, or covered with ceiling materials from below. Let's consider both options.

So, it was decided to leave the beams in the form of a bar as a decorative element. What is done in this case, what work is carried out. The easiest option is to lay boards 30-40 mm thick on top of them, which will determine either the draft ceiling or the finishing one.

As for the finishing design. To do this, use tongue-and-groove boards with a moisture content of no more than 20%. Before laying them on top of the beams, the latter are leveled in a horizontal plane by removing a layer of protruding surfaces, for which an electric planer is used. You can, of course, carry out alignment by raising or lowering each beam, but this is more difficult option. Moreover, if high-quality beams were chosen as the supporting ceiling structures, then their dimensional parameters are quite accurate, which will reduce the number of layers removed by the power tool.

After the leveling work, the tongue-and-groove boards are laid, as if they were mounted on the floor. It's done like this:

The first board is laid with a tenon towards the wall with a gap from the wall surface within 10 mm (in case of thermal and moisture expansion of the wood).
The board is aligned with the wall.
The board is attached to wooden beams with self-tapping screws, the length of which is twice the width of the board.
A 50x50 mm rail is fixed along the beams parallel to the board. The distance from it to the first board is 2-3 cm greater than the thickness of the already laid ceiling element.
The second board is installed with a tenon in the groove.
Between it and the clogged rail, several wedges are driven in, which will tightly press the second board to the first.
Fastening is done with self-tapping screws.
The rail is dismantled and moved with the fastening further to the same distance. And the entire installation process is repeated.

What happens in the end? The load-bearing beams are visible from inside the premises of the house; a plank flooring is laid along them without gaps and cracks. All that remains is to finish general design inside: paint or varnish.

As for the ceiling itself:

on the upper side, the tongue-and-groove boards are closed with a waterproofing membrane;
insulation is laid on top;
another layer of waterproofing.

Second option

If the load-bearing beams serve as supports for the floor of the upper floor, then the process of forming both the floor and the ceiling is carried out differently. Skull bars are punched along the beams (along them), to which pieces of finishing ceiling material are attached from below. It can be the same boards, plywood, drywall and others.

A pie of waterproofing, insulation and another waterproofing layer is placed on top of the resulting structure. The last material is laid on the beams. And already on them the floor of the upper floor is formed.

It turns out that on the lower floor the beams will not be visible to their entire height, but only to part of it. At the same time, the amount of materials used for finishing increases. And one moment. This design does not have a draft ceiling as such. Here, most likely, there will be a subfloor, which is mounted on wooden beams (from above).

Load-bearing beams are not a decorative element

Let's start with the question of how to line the ceiling along wooden beams in a house. In principle, there are no restrictions on the choice of material in this situation. Use:

plywood,
OSB boards,
drywall,
plastic panels.

There is another question here: is a rough ceiling on wooden beams needed in this case? It is absolutely necessary, because finishing is just the outer side of the structure, which has low load-bearing capacity. And the rough ceiling is an element with high load-bearing capacity.

How to make a draft ceiling

Load-bearing beams are several parallel beams, logs or boards (50 mm thick and above), which form a kind of lathing in the interfloor ceiling. Rough ceiling - materials laid along the lower ends of the load-bearing beams, forming a ceiling plane. They are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws on the bottom side or metal fasteners (usually corners) on the top side. Often both types of fasteners are used simultaneously.

The main task of the work producer is to assemble sheet or slab materials, boards, in one plane formed by beams. And it will be necessary to think about the laid materials decorative design ceiling structure.

Let's go back to the rough design. Look at the photo below where it is assembled from OSB boards. Installation of slabs and sheets is carried out in a strict sequence, where certain rules are followed:

sheet and slab materials are joined only on floor beams;
a small gap of 5 mm is left between them in the form of a compensation gap in case of expansion wooden products, this also applies to drywall.

Pay attention to the photo, where you can clearly see that the beams are not laid edged boards, covered with a waterproofing membrane on top. This is a rough ceiling structure.

Beams hemmed with panel, sheet or slab products – Smooth surface, which can be sheathed, in principle, in any way. Such a ceiling is a surface on which you can attach suspended structure from plasterboard, plastic panels, metal slats, OSB boards and other finishing materials. To do this, standard technology is used using a slatted frame made of wood or metal profiles.

How to cover a ceiling with plastic panels

Consider the cladding option plastic panels because it doesn't happen often. This finish is best used in rooms with high humidity.

The low corner of the room is determined by measuring the height of the ceiling in the corners. The smallest size will be the starting point in the process of finishing the ceiling.
In this place, a size of 5 cm is laid down.
On the set point with a level, better than a laser one, lines are drawn that define the horizontal plane.
The supporting profile is installed along the lines and fastened to the walls with self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch is 40-50 cm.
Direct hangers are installed along the beams in increments of 40-60 cm.
Ceiling profiles are inserted into the profiles every 40-60 cm, to which they are attached with self-tapping screws at the level of the installed suspensions.
Ceiling profiles (each) are exposed building level horizontally and at this level they are attached to direct suspensions with bugs.

The frame is assembled, you can proceed to the installation of plastic panels. Assembly begins from the wall. The panels are laid perpendicular to the laid profiles. The first panel is laid against the wall with the tenon facing the surface. Must be left between finishing material and the wall surface there is a compensation gap of 5-10 mm. The panels are assembled using standard technology with the screws screwed into the groove.

In the same way, ceiling cladding is carried out along load-bearing beams using plasterboard, plywood, MDF panels, OSB boards and other ceiling materials. Of course, except for the stretch ceiling, for which it doesn’t matter what is under it. The main thing is smooth walls.

Regardless of which finishing option is chosen, load-bearing wooden beams must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. The solutions are applied one on top of the other, first antiseptic. Each layer must dry thoroughly.

The natural beauty of wood is always a priority, so it is not recommended to paint beams. It is better to cover it with clear varnish.

If beams have become a decorative element, then you need to take care of their geometric evenness. Optimally - to carry out work on part-time work before installation. If they are installed, you should try to level the ends and the bottom plane with an electric planer. This is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

If they are hemmed with a finished ceiling (plasterboard, plywood and other materials), the lower surface can be leveled with slats or metal profiles. Or, as described with plastic panels, with direct hangers. The latter are more often used if the difference in the plane of the beams is significant. With small differences, wooden slats are also suitable.

The hemmed ceiling is now even more popular than the whitewashed one in the past. Today there is simply a huge amount of materials that can be used to cover the ceiling in markets and stores. You can find everything - plastic, wood, wood-like, gypsum board, right down to steel plates and brick-like. During material selection a large number of issues - cost, durability, rationality, aesthetics, and so on. We still suggest you figure out what would be better to hem the ceiling. However, in this article we will review ceiling finishing options and present the characteristics of the materials, their advantages, what justifies the choice and, of course, the existing disadvantages. We will talk about installation technologies a little later.

General information on sheathed ceilings

The technology for filing the ceiling is not something complicated and is only accessible experienced craftsmen. These are not suspended ceilings, which will be somewhat problematic to install with your own hands. In our case, no special tools or equipment will be required, and no high professional knowledge will be required. We can even say that skills in working with materials will not be very important, because... All of them can be easily either cut with a knife or sawn, and also have a low specific gravity; they are simply marked and secured with ordinary self-tapping screws or special fasteners for this purpose.

Let’s say right away that one of the main advantages of sheathed or suspended ceilings is that wiring and communications can be laid inside and along them. Another general advantage is that no extensive preparation of the underlying surface is required prior to installation. If you still need to level the ceiling, you can read the article. Well, you don’t need this for rough filing. The frame of the future ceiling will hold up perfectly, and all defects and irregularities will be hidden.

Review of materials for ceiling finishing

Drywall

Drywall is the most common material. It is perfect for ceilings in wooden houses, apartments and country houses.

Advantages of plasterboard ceilings:

Easy to install;
Not high cost;
Easy operation;
Long service life;
It has excellent sound insulation and the necessary thermal insulation;
An additional plus is that, with skillful exposure to moisture, it can take on any curved shape, which will be a convenient moment when arranging exquisite structures.

The last property can also be considered a disadvantage. Indeed, with excess humidity or under intense steam formation (kitchen), gypsum plasterboard reduces its strength and begins to deform, to the point where complete disintegration occurs. Accordingly, the bathroom and kitchen will disappear according to technical parameters this material.

GCR is a lightweight material (15-19 kg per m² of surface), so it is necessary to use an aluminum profile for the manufacture of frames. By the way, this is fast and convenient. Besides, plasterboard sheets on wooden guides they will last a little less. This is due to the fact that wood is a more living material. What does it mean? This means that under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity, it contracts and expands from time to time. Therefore, such deformations negatively affect weak gypsum board fastenings, accordingly reducing the service life of the entire structure.

PVC panels

PVC panels are also not a very expensive material that meets the basic requirements for ceiling lining. Has good sound and heat insulation. However, it has a serious drawback - it is easily flammable. Modern manufacturers are trying to improve PVC panels with various additives that should reduce combustion, but in fact this is not very effective yet. To be more precise, it doesn't help.

Advantages of the material:

Ease of assembly;
Light weight of the entire structure;
Easy to care for;
High service life;
Resistance to mold and mildew formation;
Large selection of colors and textures.

PVC panels, as well as individual slats, can be matched to any home interior.

TO PVC ceiling panels are mounted on PVC profiles. During installation you must be careful, because... the material is quite fragile. In the main living rooms these profiles can be replaced with wooden blocks, however, this is unacceptable in the bathroom due to expansion when humidity builds up.

Please note that if for PVC panels realize improper care, then the service life of the ceiling will not be too long.

However, with proper installation and proper care, the original appearance of the material will be preserved for more than 15 years.

Metal slats

Another option for finishing the ceiling - slatted ceilings. Slats made to look like metal or real metal are also a fairly popular type of ceiling lining in the house. By the way, probably comes third in popularity. Quite a popular material for finishing bathrooms. What other options you can find out from the article ““

Advantages of the material:

The material itself does not require any processing. The surface of the base of the ceiling does not need to be prepared;
The absence of combustible materials in its composition. 100% fireproof. Spraying, which is applied to give color to the rails, does not count, because. it is only a few microns thick;
Ease. Can be mounted on any ceiling. However, their use in wooden houses is not recommended.

The material has its own big disadvantage - the lack of sound insulation, just like all metal materials. That is why installation must be done with soundproofing materials.

Metal slats are easy to clean. However, you need to be careful in the process because... Scratches from various abrasive materials easily remain on the surface of the material.

MDF boards and panels

Wood fiber is also an excellent option for finishing the ceiling in an apartment or house.

Advantages of the material:

Excellent heat retention and sound retention;
Can be used in rooms with high humidity. Some options may require additional protection.
Surface lamination provides long term service and ease of cleaning;
Easy to assemble;
The low weight of the material makes it possible to install lightweight frames;

The main disadvantage of the material- Most of the MDF ceiling boards sold are not finished. Therefore, painting and lamination will be required. But reverse side is the cost of the material.

Tree

Another material under consideration that can be used to line the ceiling is wood. It can be distinguished into a separate group, which includes lining, as well as various euro types of cladding.

In order to understand all the charm, beauty and comfort of the material, just look at various photos ceilings covered with wood. Wood has many advantages. The first is durability. However, the main advantage is the natural naturalness, as well as the properties inherent in wood to create a favorable microclimate and comfort in the room.

Material characteristics:

It retains heat well. No additional thermal insulation required. Preliminary preparation the ceiling surface is also not required.
The material “breathes” well. This means that it allows air to pass through well, which helps to ventilate the ceiling space.

There are no cons, but there are some inconveniences:

Quite heavy weight, which will require the construction of a massive frame;
Expensive. However, it is worth saying here that quality costs money.

So we looked at the main materials for finishing the ceiling. Installation technology and how to hem the ceiling with each material will be discussed in other articles.

Wooden beams are structures that are found not only in private houses, but also in old 3-5-story buildings. To make the ceiling surface smooth and suitable for finishing cladding, it is necessary to make a high-quality rough ceiling using wooden beams. The work can be done with your own hands with a minimum set of tools and materials.

Before hemming the ceiling surface, you should understand the layers that make up the interfloor covering in a wooden house.

Floor layers from top to bottom:

Most upper layer– boardwalk, which can be the basis under finishing coat or perform finishing functions.
Vapor barrier membrane– a required layer. Membrane fabric prevents the formation of condensation on wooden structures, prevents the formation of wet areas, mold and fungal growth.
Thermal insulation. It can be installed in any case, regardless of whether the premises are residential or not on the floor above. If the attic is not residential, the energy efficiency of the house increases; if the attic is residential, the sound insulation of the floors increases.
Waterproofing. The layer is designed to protect the insulation and wooden structures from moisture. If you do not lay down waterproofing, humid air and hot steam, rising to the ceiling, will destroy thermal insulation material– which will reduce the practical characteristics of the product.
Rough ceiling– the last layer, which is finished with finishing cladding.

Sometimes boardwalks are left unlined, especially when planks are used good quality. If, after arranging the floors, the floor needs to be laid on the floor above, then a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation, then the plank base of the floor can be laid.

How to hem a rough ceiling on wooden beams

The range of products is wide, so when choosing what to line the ceiling with in a private home, you should pay attention to the interior design of the room:

ceiling sheet materials: chipboard, fiberboard, plywood;
plastic decor resists moisture well, but you will have to make a high-quality vapor barrier to prevent condensation from accumulating;
the wood will become optimal choice, affordable in price and quality.

In rooms with changes in humidity levels and temperature changes, you should not choose resinous wood so that when released, the resin does not drip down. For hemming the ceiling, edged boards are suitable, the price of which is from $80 per m3, plywood will cost less - from $2.6 per sheet.

Tools and materials for work

To complete the work you will need:

board 25 mm;
fasteners: nails or screws 45-55 mm;
cranial timber for arranging boards above beams;
sheets of mineral wool for insulation or mineral wool with dry sawdust in a ratio of 50:50;
waterproofing (film) and vapor barrier membrane.

If the ceiling is hemmed over wooden beams using plywood, a batten and bars will be useful for decorating the lathing frame.

Tools that will be useful: saw or jigsaw, hammer, stapler, screwdriver, pencil, tape measure, construction or laser level, square, strong support or stepladder. You will also need to stock up on personal protective equipment: gloves, mask.

Advice! The board is a more practical material - there is no need to purchase additional slats for the sheathing. The boards are fastened directly to the beams; it is stronger and cheaper.

Ceiling boarding

Having figured out how to hem the ceiling along wooden beams, you need to know how to do it.

Algorithm for installing a plank subfloor:

secure the boards to the joists with self-tapping screws or nails;
lay insulation and waterproofing material on top of the flooring.

Attention! It is important to prepare the boards according to the dimensions of the ceiling so that there are no cracks or gaps left during fastening.

The option of fastening the boards from below the joists is the simplest, but in this case the beams are covered and it is difficult to reach them if the need arises. It is much better to sheathe the joists with a board along the top.

Stages of work:

secure the cranial bars to the beams;
lay the boards on the block;
lay out sheets of heat and vapor barriers, and the materials can be laid out both above and below the boards;
cover the structure with plywood or other material.

In this case, the logs and cranial beams will be visible and will become a good decoration for the room.

On a note! All wooden elements must be properly dried, pre-treated with impregnations against rot, bugs, and fire.

Plywood ceiling lining

This option requires the installation of a sheathing, which will become a frame for mounting plywood sheets. When choosing what to hem the ceiling with, it is worth assessing the evenness of the surface - plywood sheets on the lathing help to hide all the imperfections in the evenness of the ceiling.

Advice! The option with plywood is chosen by the owners of houses where the ceilings still retain their strength qualities, but have lost their aesthetic appeal. In addition, this design will withstand a thick layer of insulation.

The work is carried out in the following order:

fasten the vapor barrier membrane to the beams with a stapler;
on top form a frame from timber (40x60 mm) with a step equal to half a sheet of plywood;
Hem sheets of plywood onto the sheathing, fastening with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter and crosswise;
lay insulation sheets.

You can lay insulation between the sheathing beams and then hem plywood - the choice is up to the owner. The main thing is that the sheets of material adjoin each other without gaps and level the horizontal level of the frame to obtain a flat ceiling plane.

Is it necessary to treat the rough ceiling?

Having figured out how to hem the ceiling in a wooden house, do not forget that the design requires additional protection, especially if there are changes in humidity levels in the room. Processing includes the following stages: sanding for smoothness, puttying the seams between the sheets and fastening points. As soon as the putty mixture has dried, sand the surface again and treat it with impregnation with an antiseptic and antiprene.

If the ceiling will be covered with gypsum boards, they will be mounted on the rough ceiling metal profiles, onto which sheet material is then hemmed. Or you can leave the plywood covering without decoration, impregnating it with tinting impregnation, matte or glossy varnish, or paints.