However, as a flexible shaft for the engraver, it is possible to use the drive shaft from a drill or the shaft for the speedometer of a car or motorcycle. We use this option for our homemade product.
Due to the flexible shaft, the device has an advantage. During operation of the device, there is no excessive load on the hands. This is due to the fact that the shaft head is several times lighter than a power tool with a built-in drive.
Making a working nozzle
The body of the working attachment, in the clamping mechanism of which the cutting tool will be fixed, can also be used from a drill or made independently. In our case, it is made of steel (we used the services of a turner - a neighbor in the garage). This option has its advantages - strength and accuracy, but also disadvantages - more weight. Due to small loads, it is possible to make the housing from non-ferrous metal (for example, lighter aluminum alloys) or from a block of textolite, drilling a stepped hole for bearings in its inner part and processing the outer contour of the body to fit your hand for comfortable holding.
The threaded part of the housing is designed to connect it to the used flexible speedometer shaft and corresponds to it in thread. In our case, this is M18x1.5 10 mm long. The 70 mm long housing is bored for two ball bearings with a diameter of 22 x 8 mm.
As drive shaft collet clamp, which will be installed in the case, we use a double-sided hand tool with replaceable collets, sometimes used for drilling holes in boards. It's time to mechanize this tool.
The outer diameter of the tube (handle) of the tool body is 8 mm, slightly increased when performing the knurling operation. The thread of the collets screwed into the tool is M6. We disassemble the tool and complete the assembly with two ball bearings.
For the width of the bearing, to ensure a tight fit, we clean the corrugations from the edges of the tube. We press the bearing on one side. To fix the shaft when clamping cutting tool in a collet, select a sleeve of suitable dimensions, install it in the middle of the tube and secure it with a pin. We drill through the installed sleeve, in diameter, through hole 3.5 mm to install the stopper when clamping.
In the threaded hole of the tool tube, on one side (instead of a collet), we screw a piece copper tube with a diameter of 6 mm. To do this, at one end of it, we pre-cut the M6 thread, and gently squeeze the other end until the square fits snugly at the output end of the flexible shaft of the speedometer. As a result, the total length of the drive shaft must match the length of the housing.
We press the second bearing on the other side.
We measure the distance from the front end of the tube to the hole for the stopper. Install the assembled shaft into the housing until it stops back wall. Mark the location of the locking hole on the body. We remove the drive shaft and drill a locking hole in the housing. After lubricating the bearings, we assemble the working attachment. Check the alignment of the holes for the stopper. If the bearings turned out to be unprotected, we cut out and install, from the side of the collet, a protective washer made of plastic or felt.
After complete assembly of the body of the working nozzle, the open end of the drive shaft must coincide with the end of the body, and the crimped end of the copper tube should be flush with the threaded end.
Install the collet of the required size.
We attach the flexible shaft to the body.
To secure the cutting tool
We use a drift as a stopper.
Tool
The following tools are used to transform a compact engraving device into a multifunctional processing device:
- drills, with the help of which the engraver turns into a mini-drill;
- cutters various designs, allowing processing of flat and shaped surfaces, as well as holes, grooves and recesses of various configurations;
- disk tools used to perform cutting operations on materials of small thickness;
- metal brushes, which are used to clean treated surfaces from traces of corrosion and other contaminants;
- abrasive tools with working heads round, semicircular, oval and cylindrical used for grinding and polishing surfaces;
- tools with a conical working head for applying inscriptions and patterns to the surface of the workpiece;
- tools, the working head of which is made of felt, for performing polishing operations.
Sufficiently high-quality cutters for engraving machines can be made from broken drills, if you give their working part the required configuration using a regular sharpening machine.
Device drive
Drive electric motor, which can be any motor powered by electric current voltage 220 volts. It could be the engine from washing machine or another one you do not use household appliances.
The optimal choice for a homemade engraver is an electric motor from sewing machine, since it is possible there to regulate the shaft rotation speed within fairly wide limits. Such motors, as a rule, are capable of shaft rotation speeds of up to 6 thousand rpm, which is quite enough for a household engraver. WITH soft materials It is better to work at slow speeds, since a high rotation speed will lead to overheating of the tool or melting of the edges of the workpiece. On average speed It is recommended to work with metal. Handle hard natural stone best at maximum speed.
As a drive for the engraver, you can use an angle grinder with a “flying” gearbox, a drill or a screwdriver.
This temporary use option is also possible.
Good time everyone!
In this post I want to share with you the process of creating laser engraver based on a diode laser from China.
A few years ago I had a desire to buy myself ready-made option engraver from Aliexpress with a budget of 15 thousand, but after a long search I came to the conclusion that all the presented options are too simple and are essentially toys. But I wanted something tabletop and at the same time quite serious. After a month of research, it was decided to make this device with our own hands, and away we go...
At that moment I did not yet have a 3D printer and 3D modeling experience, but everything was fine with drawing)
Here is actually one of those ready-made engravers from China.
Having looked at the options possible designs mechanics, the first sketches of the future machine were made on a piece of paper..))
It was decided that the engraving area should be no smaller than an A3 sheet.
The laser module itself was one of the first to be purchased. Power 2W, since it was the most the best option for reasonable money.
Here is the laser module itself.
And so, it was decided that the X axis would travel along the Y axis and its design began. And it all started with the carriage...
The entire machine frame was made from aluminum profiles different shapes, bought in Leroy.
At this stage, sketches on notebook sheets no longer appeared, everything was drawn and thought out in Compass.
Having bought 2 meters of a square profile 40x40 mm to build the frame of the machine, in the end only the carriage itself was made of it ..))
Motors, linear bearings, belts, shafts and all electronics were ordered from Aliexpress during the development process and plans for how the motors would be mounted and what the control board would be changed along the way.
After a few days of drawing in Compass, a more or less clear version of the machine design was determined.
And so the X axis was born..))
Sidewalls of the Y axis (sorry for the photo quality).
Fitting.
And finally the first launch!
A simple 3D model was built general view machine in order to accurately determine its appearance and sizes.
And off we go... Plexiglas... Painting, wiring and other little things.
And finally, when everything was adjusted and the last part was painted black 8), the finish line came!
Creation engraving machine doing it yourself is quite a difficult task. Despite this, there are craftsmen who can make a homemade engraving machine with numerical control at home, which is much more difficult. In this article we will provide detailed instructions, following which you can create your own device for engraving processing of workpieces.
Of course, constructing such a device at home requires large material costs and solid skills, but by making such a machine yourself, you can save a significant amount of money and create a device that best suits your production goals.
Where to begin?
If you decide to make an engraving machine with your own hands, we recommend that you immediately design a CNC device. This will significantly increase the performance of the device and make it easier to work with. After this, decide on the layout of the device. As a basis, you can take an old mini-drilling machine and replace the drill in it with the cutter itself.
- Choose a mechanism that will be responsible for moving the working unit along the planes. For these purposes, you can use carriages from an old printer. In addition, the apparatus constructed in this way will make it relatively easy to attach a digital node. It is worth noting that the carriages are best taken from large printers. This will significantly strengthen the design of the machine.
- Equip your machine with a powerful stepper motor. For this purpose, we recommend using old electric motors.
- Special attention pay attention to the milling unit.
- To carry out the transmission from the engine to the working unit, it is best to use a toothed belt drive.
Assembling the device
After we have decided on the layout of the machine and the origin of its main parts, it's time to start assembling our machine for engraving workpieces. The basis for the device can be made a rectangular beam, which is mounted on rails. It is recommended to fasten the remaining structural elements to the beam using screws.
The fact is that our entire structure must have increased rigidity, since quite serious loads will act on it during operation. The lack of reliable fasteners and the unsteadiness of the installation will necessarily affect the quality of workpiece processing.
At the same time, you should not abuse welding work. The fact is that welding seams are quite seriously subject to deformation and destruction. Such connections are especially difficult to tolerate various vibrations, which will be quite a lot during the operation of the device. Guides should also be made of durable material, resistant to a variety of deformations.
Otherwise, this element of the structure will have to be changed after a relatively short time after the start of use of the machine. The device design must include lifting mechanism for the milling unit. It is best to use a screw drive for these purposes.
The vertical axis for the machine is best made from an aluminum plate. Its dimensions must be compared with the dimensions of other elements of the structure of the machine. When we have the axis ready, we can begin installing stepper motors. The first will move in the horizontal direction, and the second in the vertical direction. Transmission method: belt. Before using the machine, it must be operated manually.
Electrical equipment and software
Any modern engraving machine will only be as effective as its software. High-quality electrical equipment also plays a decisive role.
What a digital node should look like:
- The software must have all the necessary drivers for installed elements machine In addition, the machine program must correspond to all modes of operation of the device. First of all, the software must be reliable and functional.
- The design of the unit must include an LPT port.
- The numerical software is connected via the LPT port.
- After installing the CNC on the machine, all necessary drivers and programs are installed.
When assembling the digital unit of an engraving machine, you should remember that the quality of the work performed will certainly affect the operation of the device. Before using the device, you should carefully check the functionality of the software. After setting up the entire machine correctly and troubleshooting, homemade device will be able to perform many functions efficiently.
Video: DIY engraving and milling machine.
Which engine to choose?
Any engraving machines with numerical software should be equipped with a stepper motor electric type. Motors from old printers are perfect for these purposes. Most of these products were equipped with a pair of suitable motors. In addition to the units themselves, you can also remove cores from printers that are suitable for our device.
It is worth noting that for full operation of a homemade engraving device, not two, but three such motors should be installed on it. Thus, you need to look for either two dot matrix printers, or buy necessary details On the market.
The optimal motor design should include five separate control wires, which will significantly increase the functionality of the device. An important indicator for a motor is the number of degrees per step. An important factor is the operating voltage and winding resistance. Information about these indicators will help to correctly configure the operation of the entire device.
- A nut and stud with the required dimensions can be used as a drive.
- Fastenings for parts can be made using a drill and file. A bushing with a screw is perfect for these purposes.
- The motor shaft is most often secured using a thick rubber wire with a good winding. Using this element, you can efficiently attach the engine to the stud.
The instructions presented above are suitable not only for making a homemade engraving machine, but also for constructing other devices with numerical software. For example, using these recommendations, you can make a machine for coordinate boring of parts. Depending on the power of the machine, it can process workpieces from different materials(metal, wood, chipboard).
Everyone has probably already heard that you can extract a semiconductor laser from a DVD burner and use it to light matches and burn through thin paper.
But the author of this video went further and made it quite like this handy tool for engraving on organic surfaces. And this idea immediately played out differently. It should be noted that the video instructions for making a laser engraver are very detailed. The author explains in detail all the steps and why, what is needed. The only thing the author did not say is that even such a low-power laser should be handled very carefully and avoid getting the beam reflected from any surface into your eyes. Otherwise, you may seriously damage your eye. There is a way to increase the laser power. You just need to use several semiconductor lasers and focus their beams to one point. But this will seriously complicate the design and require a more powerful power source.
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Good day, brain engineers! Today I will share with you a guide on how to how to do laser cutter with a power of 3W and a work table of 1.2x1.2 meters controlled by an Arduino microcontroller.
This brain trick born to create coffee table in pixel art style. It was necessary to cut the material into cubes, but this is difficult manually, and very expensive through an online service. Then this 3-watt cutter/engraver for thin materials appeared. Let me clarify that industrial cutters have a minimum power of about 400 watts. That is, this cutter can handle light materials such as polystyrene foam, cork sheets, plastic or cardboard, but it only engraves thicker and denser ones.
Step 1: Materials
Arduino R3
Proto Board – board with display
stepper motors
3 watt laser
laser cooling
power unit
DC-DC regulator
MOSFET transistor
motor control boards
Limit switches
case (large enough to hold almost all the items listed)
timing belts
ball bearings 10mm
timing belt pulleys
ball bearings
2 boards 135x 10x2 cm
2 boards 125x10x2 cm
4 smooth rods with a diameter of 1cm
various bolts and nuts
screws 3.8cm
lubricant
zip ties
computer
a circular saw
screwdriver
various drills
sandpaper
vice
Step 2: Wiring Diagram
Laser circuit homemade products is presented informatively in the photo, there are only a few clarifications.
Stepper Motors: I think you noticed that the two motors are driven from the same control board. This is necessary so that one side of the belt does not lag behind the other, that is, the two motors work synchronously and maintain the tension of the timing belt necessary for high-quality work crafts.
Laser Power: When adjusting the DC-DC regulator, make sure that the laser is receiving constant pressure, not exceeding specifications laser, otherwise you will simply burn it. My laser is rated for 5V and 2.4A, so the regulator is set to 2A and the voltage is slightly lower than 5V.
MOSFET transistor: this important detail given brain games, since it is this transistor that turns the laser on and off, receiving a signal from the Arduino. Since the current from the microcontroller is very weak, only this MOSFET transistor can sense it and lock or unlock the laser power circuit; other transistors simply do not respond to such a low-current signal. The MOSFET is mounted between the laser and the ground from the DC regulator.
Cooling: when creating your own laser cutter I encountered the problem of cooling the laser diode to avoid overheating. The problem was solved by installing computer fan, with which the laser functioned perfectly even when working for 9 hours in a row, and a simple radiator could not cope with the cooling task. I also installed coolers next to the motor control boards, since they also get quite hot, even if the cutter is not running, but just turned on.
Step 3: Assembly
The attached files contain a 3D model of a laser cutter, showing the dimensions and assembly principle of the desktop frame.
Shuttle design: it consists of one shuttle responsible for the Y axis, and two paired shuttles responsible for the X axis. The Z axis is not needed, since this is not a 3D printer, but instead the laser will alternately turn on and off, that is, the Z axis is replaced by the piercing depth . I tried to reflect all the dimensions of the shuttle structure in the photo, I will only clarify that all the mounting holes for the rods in the sides and shuttles are 1.2 cm deep.
Guide rods: steel rods (although aluminum is preferable, but steel is easier to get), quite large diameter 1 cm, but this thickness of the rod will avoid sagging. The factory grease was removed from the rods, and the rods themselves were carefully ground with a grinder and sandpaper until perfectly smooth for good glide. And after grinding, the rods are treated with white lithium lubricant, which prevents oxidation and improves sliding.
Belts and stepper motors: For installation stepper motors and I used timing belts ordinary tools and materials that came to hand. First, the motors and ball bearings are mounted, and then the belts themselves. A sheet of metal approximately the same in width and twice as long as the engine itself was used as a bracket for the engines. This sheet has 4 holes drilled for mounting on the engine and two for mounting to the body. homemade products, the sheet is bent at an angle of 90 degrees and screwed to the body with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side from the engine mounting point, a bearing system is installed in a similar way, consisting of a bolt, two ball bearings, a washer and metal sheet. A hole is drilled in the center of this sheet, with which it is attached to the body, then the sheet is folded in half and a hole is drilled in the center of both halves for installing the bearing system. A toothed belt is put on the motor-bearing pair thus obtained, which is attached to wooden base shuttle with a regular self-tapping screw. This process is shown more clearly in the photo.
Step 4: Soft
Fortunately the software for this brain games free and open source. Everything you need can be found at the links below:
That's all I wanted to tell you about my laser cutter/engraver. Thank you for attention!
Successful homemade!
