Faulty pedal for sewing machine can cause a lot of trouble when operating this equipment. Even if the car does not stop completely and responds to pressing the pedal, it may not reach the speed, or, conversely, without smooth acceleration, it will break down to maximum speed, and may respond only after several presses on the pedal... Be that as it may, if the pedal breaks It becomes impossible to sew with sewing machines.
The first difficulty is that all of the listed difficulties may not necessarily be a consequence of the fact that it is broken. This could be a motor, wire, contacts. Only after making sure that they are in working condition, the conclusion is obvious: it is the faulty pedal that is to blame sewing machine.
The complexity of the repair depends on the type and design of the pedal itself. They come in two varieties depending on the car model: pedal with rheostat and with electronic stuffing. You can determine which one is in your sewing machine by its weight. A rheostat pedal is usually much heavier than an electronic pedal. This is due to its internal design.
What is the difference between repairing rheostat and electronic pedals for sewing machines?
A pedal with a rheostat most often fails due to its fragility and careless use by consumers. Repairing the pedal of a sewing machine of this type is usually required after using it for a long time. Moreover, the threat of breakdown can be determined in advance, by the first signs: the sewing machine begins to move only at the end of pressing the pedal. If you do not pay attention to this in a timely manner, the car pedal will simply shatter into fragments and the essence of the repair will be gluing all the particles together with a very good and strong glue or replacing the pedal with a new one. The second option is, of course, more reliable.To avoid problems with the machine pedal, it is advisable to avoid sudden and strong pressing and not leave it plugged in if you are not using the sewing machine.
If the electronic pedal breaks down, it is unlikely that you can repair it yourself. All that a user who is far from electronics can do is to inspect its external integrity, whether the soldering of radio elements is damaged, or whether the wiring is torn off. More detailed repairs can be carried out by an electronics specialist with the necessary knowledge and equipment (oscilloscope, tester). Moreover, in case of such a breakdown, you should contact not a sewing machine workshop, but a radio-electronic equipment adjuster.
The pedal for a sewing machine often causes a “breakdown” of the electric drive. The sewing machine suddenly begins to stop periodically and only after several presses “all the way” on the pedal does it resume its movement.
It happens that the sewing machine stops altogether, and even if you press the pedal with both feet, it will not work. The first thought that comes to mind in such a situation is that the engine has “burnt out.”
In fact, it was the sewing pedal that broke, not the motor. This can be determined if only because the engine lets you know about it before it “burns out”. There is a strong smell of burnt electrical wiring, and it gets as hot as an iron.
Before deciding that the engine has “burned out,” touch it with your hand, you can even smell it,
Actually, repair sewing machine pedals in many such cases it is not necessary, since the reason may be trivially simple. The contacts of the connecting plugs have oxidized or the wire inside the cord insulation has broken. Contact oxidation is easy to eliminate, you just need to clean the contacts sandpaper. But it is very difficult to find a broken wire inside the wiring, and you will need a tester.
A wire break inside the insulation occurs by various reasons, but mainly due to careless handling of the pedal connecting wiring. This happens when the plug is constantly pulled out of the socket by the cord or angular, heavy objects, such as a chair leg, come into contact with the cord.
You can replace all the wiring without searching for a break. But this can only be done by an electrician, and not always, since the connecting plugs are often not disassembled, since they are cast at the factory along with the contacts and wiring.
The only way out in this case is to buy a new pedal for the sewing machine, and sometimes complete with a motor, which is of course more expensive. See How to disassemble the machine and replace the electric drive.
You will not be able to restore the wiring yourself and, most importantly, it is pointless, since the break may appear after some time in another place. Once one cliff has appeared, another one will soon appear. And in general, we categorically do not recommend repairing electrical appliances with your own hands. Electricity is a “serious” matter and only a specialist should do such work.
2. How does a sewing machine pedal work?
The sewing pedal circuit of household machines that do not use electronics is very simple and is a switch, only in the form of a rheostat, which consists of many graphite round plates. The graphite parts of the rheostat “burn out” and a coating appears on their surface, preventing electric current. As a result of many years long work sewing pedal pedal goes out of order, although external signs you won't find it.
The only sign of this is when the machine “disappears” at slow speeds. When you have to press the pedal “all the way” for the sewing machine to start working, and then immediately at the most high speed. This a clear sign that you need to buy a new pedal for the machine.
If your machine has a pedal of approximately this type, then you can move the rheostat housing. This can be used to regulate the smooth, jerk-free operation of the machine’s electric drive.
3. Can the sewing pedal be repaired?
Sometimes electronic pedals for a sewing machine cannot be repaired even by a sewing machine repairman. Rather, this needs to be done by a TV technician, since inside it there is a microcircuit and a board of radio components and a circuit and various testers will definitely be required. And by the way, these pedals, which are included in many models of Soviet-made sewing machines Chaika and Podolsk, very often break.
Such a pedal stops working suddenly, but always at the most inopportune moment. By this sign you can easily understand that the pedal is broken forever. But seriously, the main radio component (thyristor) inside the pedal simply fails and therefore it suddenly stops working.
These pedals are easy to distinguish from others. They have a plastic body and are much lighter than other types of pedals because there is only one small circuit board inside. Another difference is that the wire is mounted directly into the pedal body and is not disconnected, like, for example, the sewing pedal to the TUR-2 electric motor.
4. Sewing pedal for electric motor TUR-2
Another sewing pedal, often used in sewing machines that perform zigzag stitches, such as Chaika, Veritas sewing machine, Podolsk. A very good pedal and comes complete with a TUR-2 electric motor, too good quality. True, its fragile body often breaks, but this is not the fault of the pedal, but the owner of the sewing machine, who treats it carelessly.
The body of this sewing pedal is very fragile and top cover held in place by a slight ebb on the lower body. Often this protrusion breaks when hit or pressed hard with the foot and the pedal “opens”. This is the moment when you will see how the pedal works.
You can fix this damage yourself, but you will need to restore the limiter in any way convenient for you. For example, glue or screw a small stopper made of plastic or metal.
In order to disassemble this sewing pedal, you need to pull out the bushing that connects both halves of the pedal. It is not difficult to find where this bushing is located, but it is difficult to discover that it is also secured with a screw. There is a hole in the middle of the bottom cover at the level of the bushing, which is sealed with putty. Under the putty is the screw that securely clamps the bushing. Unscrew it and the bushing can be easily removed.
Why is such secrecy necessary? Most likely, not everyone can disassemble a rather unsafe electrical device. I hope you also understand that disassembling electric pedals is dangerous.
5. Do not leave the pedal connected to the network unattended.
After self-repair Do not leave the sewing pedal plugged in for long time unattended. Due to inept adjustment of the rheostat, the sewing pedal may remain in the on mode all the time and overheat.
If you remove your foot from the pedal, there should be no voltage at the output contacts of the plug going to the electric motor, since complete disconnection occurs electrical circuit. But, you can break this chain without knowing it.
Even when you take your foot off the pedal, a small current will still flow to the rheostat. The circuit closes, but you will not understand this, since the sewing machine will not move. As a result, both the pedal and the electric motor will gradually heat up and heat up, and then you know what happens...
Therefore, if you cannot check this with a tester, just take as a rule any sewing machine electric machine, even a new one, should not be left plugged into the outlet unattended, especially for a long time.
6. The first models of sewing machine pedals
Well, and the last “rarity” that “our” cars have had since Soviet times. Especially often such a pedal can be found on straight-stitch sewing machines, such as Singer, Podolsk. I don’t know who came up with such a design, but it’s for sure that this sewing pedal is more convenient to use with your thumb than with your foot. Otherwise, this is a fairly reliable and “eternal” sewing pedal. And the wiring does not break inside its insulation. You can't break it if you want, it's such a thick wire. And the rheostat never burns out and even splitting its body is quite difficult. So, if it comes with the electric drive of your sewing machine, don’t expect it to last for a long time.
How does a modern household electric sewing machine work? Basic malfunctions of components and mechanisms.
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Just like the pedal, the electric motor should not be repaired yourself. Moreover, there is nothing to repair there. The engine either works or it doesn't. If it does not work, and you know for sure that there is no other reason for this, then it does not need to be repaired, but replaced. And to figure out when it needs to be changed, read this article.
If you have such a machine, then it can be converted. Instead of manual drive install an electric drive with a pedal. Buy the cheapest kit. Just be careful not to confuse the rotation of the motor, since the overlock motor rotates in reverse side. It is advisable that the pedal for the sewing machine is not the cheapest and has a ceramic body.
The foot drive is difficult to use, literally and figuratively. In addition, it knocks a lot, which, as a rule, requires replacing the bearing. The best decision for a broken foot drive, use it as a table and install an electric motor to the machine. And then you can control the machine using a sewing pedal.
To avoid overloading the electric motor and sewing machine pedal At the same time, use elastic and not too thick threads. You should also not sew fabrics that are not intended for sewing on household sewing machines. This causes the electric drive to experience increased loads and heat up. And the first thing that happens is the sewing pedal.
How can a needle affect the operation of a sewing machine pedal? It is not just one thing that influences, but many factors in combination. For example, thick, rough fabrics, a blunt needle with a curved tip, continuous, non-stop operation of the engine, etc. All this causes the sewing machine pedal to burn out.
Dear Colleague kirich I recently reviewed a holder for an engraver with an inhumane price tag in . In the comments, I promised to describe the holder much simpler and almost an order of magnitude cheaper.
Well, no one pulled their tongue - I am fulfilling my obligation :)
Before the collapse of the ruble, I bought a Dremel “clone” for one and a half thousand rubles, with a full set of attachments and a flexible shaft. Over time, the engraver turned out to be the most frequently used tool - it is so practical and convenient. Only I didn’t use a flexible shaft - I was always afraid that if the attachment got stuck, the engraver would start jumping around the table, destroying everything. Yes, and reaching for the button is inconvenient.
The turning point came when I needed to cut tiles to correct flaws after renovation in the bathroom. The tiles cut like butter, the flexible shaft turned out to be very convenient to use. I realized that something needs to be improved in the design in order to use the flexible shaft permanently.
So, introductory:
- I need the engraver to stand securely while I’m sawing something
- you need a remote button, and ideally a pedal
- I don’t want to cut the engraver’s wire or unscrew the case
The solution to the second problem was a penny pedal from Aliexpress:
As a base, I took a piece of DNT slab left over after installing “adjustable floors” in the apartment. A piece of about 16x20 cm pulled 500 grams - which solved the issue with stability. And here pine board the same size had to be rejected, it turned out to be too lightweight - after all, the glue and sawdust from which DNT is made are much denser. As an alternative, I considered cutting porcelain stoneware or marble, but it was not necessary.
We use plastic plugs from kitchen furniture as “legs”:
We place a patch socket on the same piece of wood (we didn’t want to cut the engraver’s original wire, did we?) We use the socket body as a junction box - we run the wire to the socket and the pedal there. We tin the twist and insulate it with a couple of layers of heat shrink:
We disassemble the pedal (to do this you just need to push the axle to the side): 
We unsolder the standard wire (it’s still not good for anything, either in cross-section or in length). We connect our wire to the switch using saber connectors:
(There is no marking on the switch, except for the designation of contacts NO and NC, and the manufacturer’s brand - “DAIER”. The closest similar model on the site is 16A, but I would not allow more than 10A through it)
When assembled, the entire device takes up little space and is very stable - after all, we added half a kilo of mass to the engraver:
The pedal is very sensitive and handles light presses perfectly. Thanks to 4 large rubber feet, it is absolutely non-slip:
The entire assembled unit takes up little space; my engraver with all accessories fits in a standard IKEA tin box:
Let's summarize - for three kopecks we turn a hand engraver from scrap materials into a more solid device, and at the same time increase the safety of use. Additionally, the engraver can be secured on the table with a clamp, which will make the fastening completely reliable.
No changes were made to the design. Removing and installing the engraver on the base is a matter of minutes; there is no need to unscrew or screw anything. The latches hold the engraver absolutely securely.
Since the unit is fixed, it can be used not only with a flexible shaft, but also as a small “machine”. For example, I want to get to a 3D printer and print something like this
