How to lay a wooden floor on a concrete base - the choice of materials and installation instructions for glue, logs and plywood. How to fill the floor with concrete: stages of work

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Concreting the floor is a laborious, complex and long process, the result of which, with a qualified approach to work, will be a flat floor without flaws. The floor is an important part of any room. Nowadays, a concrete floor can be found in various buildings, ranging from garages, workshops in factories and hangars, ending with residential country houses and apartments.

Concrete has the unique qualities of fire and impact resistance, durability, water resistance, impermeability, and it is also important that the cost of the material is relatively inexpensive. If you concrete the floor in a house or apartment, then an additional plus there will be a hygiene of concrete. After all, the concrete floor is not a favorable environment for the reproduction and residence of harmful microbes and insects. Concrete flooring is universal for both residential and industrial premises. Non-professionals in this business often ask a lot of questions like how to concrete the floor, what material is needed, etc.

How to start concreting the floor on the ground

For cellars, garages and first floors country houses floors can be concreted directly on the ground. In preparation for concreting, the question of how to properly carry out preliminary work before concreting will torment. The owner of the building will be able to do this construction procedure on your own, even without having skills in this field of activity and without spending too much. Certain rules for preparing the base for the floor:

The first thing to do is to smooth the surface on which the floors will be placed in the future.
The second is to tamp the soil, using small stones or gravel. It is worth carefully tamping every cm of soil so that cracks do not appear in the future.
During the third stage of surface preparation, a ball of sand with a thickness of 0.4 m to 1.1 m should be laid on a carefully compacted base.
Then the sand cushion must be leveled and evenly compacted with a roller, pouring water over it.

It is worth noting that after the last procedure, the thickness of the sand ball will decrease by at least 26%.

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How to waterproof and reinforce a concrete floor

The second question that the layman faces is how to make a concrete floor waterproof and resistant to stress.

The first thing to consider in detail is the waterproofing of concrete floors:

After tamping the sand cushion, you need to do waterproofing. The quality of this work directly affects the penetration of dampness and moisture into the building, the appearance of fungus, which poses a threat to human health.
In order to protect the building from moisture, polymer or bituminous materials are mainly used. To save money, you can also use thick polyethylene film.
Selected materials for waterproofing are distributed over the entire surface of the floor. Fasten together with construction tape. Do not allow even the slightest damage to the waterproofing. This coating should protrude 23-30 cm from the floor to protect against moisture between the floor and walls. Excess materials should be cut off.

A person who is going to make a concrete floor over a large area in a few days must know what formwork is. It is made from wooden planks not less than 3 cm thick and placed around the entire perimeter of the building. With the help of formwork, it is possible to divide the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room into sectors, which should be concreted separately.

Next, you need to install a mesh for reinforcing the floor. That is, it is necessary to fix the reinforcement for further concreting of the floors. Most often, floors are reinforced with reinforcement so that they do not collapse under heavy loads. When choosing fittings, it is worth considering the purpose of the building in which the floors are concreted. Most often, builders use reinforcement to strengthen floors, the diameter of which is not less than 0.6 cm.

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How to pour concrete floors

In this paragraph, a detailed answer will be given to the most important question of how to concrete the floor. The laying of the concrete floor can be started immediately after the completion of the work indicated above. This process is carried out in stages:

First layer of concrete. Need to do concrete mortar from cement grade M500 with the addition of granite chips. In order to make this layer of concrete more stable, you need to add a plasticizer.
Then you need to lay out the solution on the prepared surface, while smoothing the concrete with a metal rail in accordance with the beacons.
Beacons need to be installed. We fill half of the planned area with concrete and on top of this we need to build a hillock - this will be a lighthouse. Thanks to the lighthouse, you can easily level the surface of the concrete. Lighthouses should be erected no further than 1.5-2 m from each other.
Before starting concreting, during leveling the surface, it is necessary to set the guides at zero level. After that, you need to put a vibrorail on the guides. Concrete should lie above the guides by an average of 2.3-2.7 cm.

If you need to finish concreting the floor faster, without damaging it, you can use concrete vacuuming. To do this, after leveling the concrete, it is necessary to put a filter agent on it.

An airtight mat is laid on top of it. Next is to make a pipe in the middle of the mat and attach to it Vacuum pump. It quickly removes moisture without damaging the concrete surface. In order for the concrete to completely harden using this method, it takes an average of 7-9 hours.

Floors laid on concrete floors can withstand high loads. That is why they quite often act as the main node of structures. multi-storey buildings. Laying slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make adjustments to the flooring process. To date, there are several technologies that can be used when laying the floor on concrete floor. They will be discussed below.

Creating a screed on a concrete slab

Floor device according to concrete slab may involve the use of technology when the surface is poured with a solution. It can be prepared using cement, sand and water. In some cases, a special mixture is used for this purpose. At the first stage, the plate is inspected for defects. This will let you know which areas should be given more attention. Apply a primer to the surface with a brush or roller. It is better to use a deep penetration compound.

After the base has dried, you can proceed to pouring the screed. Its layer should not be very thick. The task is to hide defects and level the surface. After a day, the screed will dry a little, at this moment it should be covered with a thick film. The canvases in this case should go on the walls by 15 cm.

How to make the floor level

Over the entire area, slats made of wood or metal profiles, which will act as beacons. When the floor is laid on a concrete slab, the next step is to install a laser level in the corner of the room.

Its light beams will define the contour of the upper level of the floor. It is on this scale that fine finish. Lighthouses should be located throughout the area. Strong threads are pulled from opposite walls, the fastening of which is carried out with self-tapping screws. Lighthouses can be fixed with a screed mortar or gypsum mixture.

Insulation of the floor and pouring the finishing layer

Do-it-yourself warming according to the described technology involves the use of expanded clay. It does not provide for the need for film protection, which distinguishes the material from porous thermal insulation. Then you can start laying the main screed. It should be dense, and its thickness usually varies from 5 to 15 cm.

To form a flat floor, a rule is used. It is laid on beacons and pulled over. The excess solution will be against the wall and fill in the bumps. After the solution dries, the beacons are removed, and the resulting gaps are filled with a solution. Finishing carried out on a completely dry surface.

The choice of material for concrete floor insulation

On the market building materials Today, heaters are presented in a wide range. Among others, it is necessary to highlight mineral wool, which is moisture resistant, as well as environmentally friendly. With its help, floor sound insulation can also be made, because the material has a fibrous structure, so the layers do not let noise and heat through themselves.

Fibers do not absorb moisture, but mineral wool allows it to pass through, so during operation it may begin to rot. If you want to install a floor on a concrete slab with insulation, then mineral wool can only be used if the system assumes the presence of a lag. Additionally, in this case, vapor and waterproofing should be applied.

Use and foam glass

Extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene are able to protect the house from heat loss. These materials provide vapor and moisture resistance, are highly rigid and do not deform if the concrete floor is insulated with the help of such canvases.

Among the shortcomings, one should highlight the ability to release toxic substances into the external environment and fragility. On domestic market relatively new material is foam glass. It does not allow heat and moisture to pass through and conducts steam very well. Foam glass is environmentally friendly and durable. However, it is fragile, so its installation can only be carried out under a raised floor.

Features of concrete slab insulation

The device of the floor on a concrete slab may involve the laying of insulation. If the building is old and there is a coating on the floor, then it must be completely removed. The surface is leveled; for this, the cavities can be covered with expanded clay or other bulk material.

The next step is to lay down a skinny layer of screed, the purpose of which is to hold the bulk material in place. After the prepared layer gains strength, you can start laying waterproofing. For this, a plastic film or a waterproof membrane is suitable. The laying of the sheets must be overlapped, and the joints must be glued with adhesive tape. The material should be brought to the surface of the walls by 15 cm.

Work methodology

The device of the floor on a concrete slab at the next stage involves the installation of thermal insulation. When it was decided to use polyurethane foam as it, it is necessary to purchase material in the form of foam cylinders to spray on the prepared base. If you decide to choose foam, then it should be laid on a special glue. Waterproofing is spread on the insulation layer. The joints of the insulation material and the waterproof layer should not coincide.

The hydrobarrier is not strengthened, it should only be glued with adhesive tape. On the resulting "pie" you can lay a wet or semi-dry screed, which will act as a rough finish and the basis for a decorative coating. Additionally, you can protect the floor from the cold with a thin sheet of polyurethane foam, carpet or linoleum.

on concrete floor

If you decide to implement a wooden floor, then you may prefer a technology that involves the use of a log. These structures are most commonly used in wooden houses or apartments. The advantages are undoubted, they are expressed in giving the floor noise and heat insulating properties. With the help of a log, any base can be leveled, while engineering communications are usually located under the floor in this case.

If you decide to resort to just such a flooring technology, then it is important to know whether the opponents of this approach emphasize that such a procedure destroys the screed, and the junctions of the base and the lag form sound transmission bridges. Proponents of rigid fixation point out that the deformation wooden beams nullifies all efforts to repair.

In fact, soundproofing is a moot point. Rigid structures transmit sound, but to exclude such an effect, a heater with soundproofing properties is placed between the lags. If you nevertheless decide to resort to the technology of installing a wooden floor on a concrete floor, then at the first stage all debris is removed from the room, the cracks are rubbed, and the protrusions are knocked off.

penetrating compounds;
hydrophobic mastics;
roll materials;
thick film.

When the floor is being installed on a concrete slab in an apartment, it is necessary to stock up on fasteners and substrates to raise the log. When choosing a substrate, it is necessary to be guided by the recommendation that the material should be rigid. Over time, he should not sag in order to prevent the occurrence of play at the fulcrum. You can use pieces of plywood and thin boards for this. But visiting hardware store, you can purchase special plastic substrates.

Laying the lag is carried out perpendicular to the falling from the window sunlight. The distance between the bars should depend on the thickness of the rough coating. The stronger and thicker the sheets, the farther apart the logs can be located. Usually this parameter varies from 40 to 50 cm. The extreme bars should be 3 cm away from the wall, everything else will depend on the width of the room.

System mount

After assembling the crate, the horizontal plane must be checked using the building level. Foamed polyethylene, linoleum or roofing material is placed under the supports. These materials will act as shock absorbers and provide additional waterproofing for the wood. After the lag system is ready, it remains to be fixed to the floor. Fasteners can be provided in one of three ways, these are:

anchor fastenings;
galvanized corners and dowels;
self-tapping screws.

Laying linoleum on concrete floor

The installation of a floor on a concrete foundation slab may involve the use of linoleum. At the first stage, a foundation is prepared, the quality of which will determine the service life finish coat. It is important to exclude depressions and protrusions that will help cause wear of linoleum. If the height difference exceeds 2 mm on square meter, then the cavities are puttied, and the protrusions are eliminated by knocking down. After that, a new floor screed is performed, for this cement or concrete mortar is usually used, as well as bulk mixtures.

Before laying linoleum on a concrete floor, it is important to lay the film, and after - insulation material. When laying the finishing layer, the temperature in the room must not be lower than +18 °C, while the humidity should not exceed 68%.

On each side, when cutting linoleum, 10 cm should remain. If there are seams, then they must be placed in the direction of light from the windows, so they will be less noticeable. You can lay linoleum without gluing, using glue or mastic, as well as using adhesive tape. The most effective and time-consuming technology will be the use of glue or mastic. For large areas, this technique is the only correct one.

Choosing a laminate flooring

Must be selected by you before work begins. It can be used as natural materials which are available in sheets or rolls. In this case, we are talking about a cork layer, which provides excellent sound and heat insulation. However given material suggests the need perfect alignment. Such a substrate for a laminate on a concrete floor must be laid on a dense plastic film, and the surface must first be vacuumed.

Among artificial materials Izolon should be highlighted, which is a foamed polyethylene. It can have a foil surface that effectively reflects heat into the room. Additional sound insulation of the floor is also provided with the help of Poliform. This substrate is similar in characteristics to Izolon, but has a lower cost.

Instead of a conclusion: a warm floor on a concrete screed

Thermal insulation must be laid on the rough screed before laying the warm floor. As it is usually used cork substrate or polypropylene. At the next stage, a damper tape is laid, only after that it is possible to proceed with the installation of underfloor heating elements.

If the system is based on water pipes, then they are laid with a certain distance ranging from 10 to 30 cm. The pipes are fastened with fixing profiles, which are fixed to the surface with screws and dowels. When a warm floor is being installed on a concrete screed, the next step is to lay a metal mesh, only then it is worth starting to pour the screed. The temperature in the room during these works should be positive. Concreting must begin from the far corner of the room, ending the process at the door.

The concrete floor has a number of advantages over its wooden, tile, laminate and other counterparts. This design is not afraid of exposure to moisture and frost, concrete is not affected by fungus and rodents, and most importantly, a properly equipped concrete floor has a high load capacity and wear resistance. How to fill the floor with concrete correctly, we will consider in this article.

When is Concrete Flooring Necessary?

In the living quarters of a private house, with rare exceptions, wooden, plywood or laminate floors are laid. The following materials are used: solid board, floor board, plywood, chipboard and other "wood containing" structural products.

During the operation of the structure, due to construction errors and water ingress, it is possible for the wood to become infected with the Serpula lacrymans house fungus. This fungus is a big lover of wood, destroying everything wooden structures within one, maximum two years. Sometimes fungal-infected floorboards in literally explode with a loud noise and crackle within six months after infection.

The danger of "Serpula lacrymans" is that it cannot be 100% removed from the building. Even if an expensive set of disinfection measures is carried out, there is still a danger of fungal spores remaining in the thickness of the walls.

In this case, the owner of a house affected by house flexibility has no choice but to fill the floor with concrete, the price of which is not only significantly lower than re-flooring with a floorboard, plywood, solid board or USB boards, but also a guarantee that the owner will never again be concerned about such a problem.

Therefore, given that infection with house fungus occurs exclusively under conditions high humidity so as not to spend a lot of money on repair work, it is recommended to immediately fill the floor with concrete in the garage, basement, barn, bathhouse, sauna, bathroom, bathroom, on an open or unheated veranda, in a cold hallway and other rooms where there is a risk of moisture condensation under the surface of the structure.

How to fill the floor with concrete with your own hands?

An ordinary concrete floor is a kind of "layer cake" consisting of waterproofing, insulation, reinforcement, a layer of concrete and a layer of iron. As an example, consider the question: how to fill the floor in a house with concrete in a room of certain dimensions. The technology discussed below is suitable for building a concrete floor in a barn, garage, basement, bathhouse, bathroom, bathroom and on the veranda.

Will be required the following materials and tools:

Portland cement CEM I 32.5N PC (M400) or CEM I 42.5N PC (M500), quarry sand and water for making mortar.
Polyethylene film or roofing material for waterproofing.
Expanded clay with a fraction size of 10-20 mm (preferably).
Steel welded reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 100x100 mm.
Water level, pencil, ruler.
Construction rule or long straight wooden lath for marking borders and leveling the surface.
Trowel and spatula for ironing.
Steel buckets, shovel, concrete mixer.

Before starting preparatory work it is desirable to define required flow building materials: cement, sand, water, expanded clay, mesh and polyethylene. For the calculation, let's set the dimensions of the room, the recommended thicknesses of the layers of materials and the grade of the recommended concrete solution:

Room, garage, sauna or veranda measuring 4x3 meters.
The thickness of the expanded clay layer is 100 mm.
40-70 mm.
Building cement-sand mortar M150.

There are different opinions about what brand of concrete to fill the floor in the garage, bathhouse, on the veranda, basement , and what brand to fill the floor in residential premises. Some sources recommend the brand M150 solution, others brand M200.

Considering the small difference in the consumption of cement, which determines strength, we take the M150 solution for calculation, suitable for all floor options in a private house and outbuildings.

Material calculation

The amount of expanded clay. In accordance with the size of the room, 4x3x0.1 = 1.2 m3 of material will be required. The specific density of expanded clay of the recommended fraction (10-20 mm) is 400 kg/m3. Accordingly, 400x1.2 = 480 kg of expanded clay will be required.
The amount of cement, sand and water. We calculate the amount of mortar: 4x3x0.04x1.1 = 0.52 m3 (the number 1.1 takes into account the shrinkage factor of 10%). M150 mortar is prepared in the following proportions: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 0.6 parts of water. Accordingly, to prepare 1 m3 of mortar, you will need: 450 kg of M400 cement, 1265 kg of sand and 285 liters of water. We accept the indicated costs as 100% and calculate the consumption of materials for our case: cement 450x0.52 = 235 kg, sand 1265x0.52 = 657 kg, water 285x0.52 = 148 l.
The amount of polyethylene film, taking into account the overlap: 4x3x1.1 = 13.2 m2.
Number of reinforcing mesh: 4x3=12 m2.

Stages of work

We prepare the surface, lay the waterproofing and install the beacons. Before you start backfilling expanded clay, you should carefully plan the base (if the floor is poured onto the ground) and carefully cover the polyethylene with a film with an overlap of 100 mm.

Installation of beacons - very milestone that requires precision and meticulousness. We will immediately answer the popular question of non-professional builders: how to evenly pour concrete on the floor without beacons?

It's possible. There is a private video on the Internet on how to evenly pour concrete on the floor without beacons. True, to implement such a technology, you will need to purchase and manufacture an expensive special tool and “fill” your hand. Therefore, it is faster and cheaper to install simple and inexpensive beacons.

Installation steps:

With the help of a ruler, we measure the boundary of the expanded clay backfill of 100 mm from the base surface, and put a point on the wall. We apply the rail or rule with one end to the point and press the rail (rule) with the side surface against the wall along the surface of the base. Using a level laid on top of the rail or rule, we set the horizontal position and draw a backfill boundary line. We consistently rearrange the rail, exposing the horizontal and outlining the border, go around the entire perimeter of the room. This operation is performed in tandem with an assistant.
From the border of the expanded clay backfill, with a ruler we measure the border of the concrete pour 40 mm and draw a line along the perimeter of the room.
Next, a thick cement-sand mortar of the M150 brand is kneaded. They retreat from the wall 1 m and with a step of 1 m, in the form of pyramids with a base of 150-200 mm, pour (heaps) of mortar - a number of lighthouses. Retreat from a number of beacons to the depth of the room 1 m and repeat the operation. As a result, they get a breakdown of the room with beacons into 1x1 meter squares. Until the solution has hardened, with the help of a rail (rule) and a level, the tops of the pyramids are aligned along the boundary line of pouring concrete. The excess solution is cut off with a spatula, the missing one is sprinkled with a trowel. After leveling, work is stopped for 4-5 days until the solution solidifies.

There are other beacon installation technologies that involve the purchase steel profiles, anchor bolts, adjusting screws and other material parts. The technology described above is the simplest and cheapest, all other things being equal. The final stages of the construction of a concrete floor:

Carefully, in order not to damage the beacons, expanded clay is poured out and aligned along the border on the wall using a rail and a level.
A reinforcing mesh is carefully laid on top of the expanded clay. If the mesh is superimposed on the top of the lighthouse, the interfering piece of wire is bitten out.
In accordance with the above proportions, a solution is prepared using a concrete mixer. The pouring of the structure is carried out along the lighthouses and the border outlined on the wall. Immediately after pouring the next batch of mortar, the surface is first leveled with a rule or a rail, after which the ironing operation is immediately carried out. In order to avoid delamination along the boundary of mortar batches, the floor must be poured continuously until complete.
Maintenance of the structure consists in spraying with water for 72 hours. You can walk on the floor 4-5 days after pouring, and laying a finish coating or installing household items is allowed only after the solution has completely dried. Complete drying control - there is no moisture condensate on the back surface of the polyethylene film laid on the floor surface.

Conclusion

The considered technology for the construction of a concrete floor is the simplest and most budgetary of all existing ones. For its implementation, in addition to a concrete mixer, no special tool is required. If necessary, and small dimensions of the room, you can do without a concrete mixer. The solution for pouring can be kneaded on a sheet of iron or in a steel trough.

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises. Firstly, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private house can be done in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

The most popular and comfortable floor for the house has always been considered wooden, since wood, unlike concrete, is a warm material in itself.
Concrete pavements are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with a wooden floor.
Raised or floating floors were not as popular with homeowners in the past, but in Lately many are increasingly turning to this option, as it is simple in the device, and it can be done in just one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, so it is necessarily included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wooden floors can be made different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made of beams laid on a concrete base, supporting pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is possible only in a room with a small area, for example, narrow corridor or small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Floors on pillars

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coverage. The lag system, arranged only on supporting pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in underground space houses to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the column should be, the greater its width and thickness.

Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug pits, then it is filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, so this process must be carried out in good faith.

Red brick pillars are laid on a compacted pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm in cross section. The erected pillars are leveled, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.

On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded studs are embedded or anchors are installed, on which floor beams will subsequently be fixed.

It should be noted that if a building or room has small area, then the supporting pillars can only be arranged along the perimeter of the future premises, but in this case massive beams must be laid on them.

After the pillars are ready, they are laid on their upper part waterproofing material. It is better if it is three ÷ four layers of roofing material.

Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting studs will pass.

Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled with wooden lining boards. When the base of the floor is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with nails, and the bars themselves also need to be fixed by screwing them to the pillars with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs are too high, it is cut off with a grinder.

It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and additionally insulate the floors.

In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all conditions have been created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay the floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving between it and wooden coating a distance of no more than ten centimeters.

Draft floor

The draft floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a particular method will depend on the material of insulation.

If slag or expanded clay is used as a heater, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are smeared with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
If the floors are insulated mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the bottom boards and laid thin plywood. A heater is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams with a stapler and staples.

Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a good example of subfloor installation

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this. focusing on which you can make a work plan.

The soil in the underground must be well tamped, and a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, should be placed on it, and then tamped again.
Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing material, is laid on a compacted pillow. If desired, under it, you can, for greater strength, lay a reinforcing mesh. Waterproofing should be at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
For waterproofing, lay bricks on the mortar or concrete blocks, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (the standard width of the insulation).
The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
On bricks, and better - on concrete blocks wooden beams, align them in level, and fix with a corner.
Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
On top of the heater, cash agi fix the vapor barrier film.
Then the floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into its side part.
The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When laying the floor on concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you can not save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

First on concrete pavement a preliminary marking of the location of the lag is done. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. The markup is done by beating the line with color.
Further, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
At these points, holes are drilled into which studs with clamps are installed, located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs embedded in the concrete surface, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
Nuts are screwed on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
The next steps are the installation of a subfloor, insulation and flooring of a clean floor.

Fastening the log directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself, having the right tools.

Stripes are beaten off on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
Further, with the help of anchor fastening, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. At the same time, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, foamed polyethylene, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
All over the wall strips cut off from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
Next, on the covered polyethylene are laid insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

From above, be sure to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

Next is laid batten or thick plywood, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and proceed to its device after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

If it is needed, upper layer soil is selected in order to arrange a pillow of sand in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It must be well tamped, pouring water.
The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam plastic chips to the solution. In addition, the solution in this case can be kneaded not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
On the finished frozen rough screed, you need to spread waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take a roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic film - the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is selected at the request of the owner of the house and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
On top of the insulation is installed metal reinforcing mesh, and then a finishing screed is poured, into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there were no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to the construction beacon level.

If desired, such a coating can be made additional insulation. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay linoleum laminate or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents the organization of the "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated in laying floors with a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in last years it is being used more and more.

The main thing in its styling is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of soundproofing and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of work, bulk floors will last a long time.

Loose mix leveling

In order for the floors to keep their shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads are installed from the boards.
On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other sheet materials. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mix, but must be moved very carefully over the surface. Evenness of laying of sheets during all work is controlled by means of level.
On gypsum fiber the sheets have folds, with the help of which they are interconnected when laying them on a dry screed.
Sheets are stacked with an offset of half a sheet, by analogy with brickwork- this will increase the stability of the coating.
Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for floor gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer, so that they tightly adjoin each other and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
The stacked top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c with glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
Right along the line doorways it is not recommended to join the sheets - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
If such floors are arranged in a room where humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor, before laying decorative coating treated with coating waterproofing.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of work performance, such technology under any circumstances is many times greater than any other.