Show the diagram and dimensions of the air conditioner installation. Installing a split system: step-by-step instructions for self-installation. How to lay pipes

Smirnov Pavel Petrovich

Experienced specialist in ventilation and air conditioning systems. He has been working in this field for more than 15 years.

Articles written

To install an air conditioner, many seek the help of specialists who issue a special document confirming the work was done correctly.

Regarding the installation of a split system with your own hands, you cannot take advantage of warranty service. Before you decide to install an air conditioner yourself, you need to understand that such an activity is quite troublesome and time-consuming.

The process involves performing a number of actions: selecting the appropriate installation kit, right choice places, installation of blocks. The most common, affordable option A similar technique is the split system, because it has a minimum of disadvantages and increased efficiency.

Do-it-yourself split system installation

Below we will consider detailed instructions on installing split systems, but for now you should know in advance that the work will consist of the following stages:

• selection of the most suitable location;
• fixing the air conditioner;
• installation work with the internal compartment;
• performing a test run.

List of required materials:

• brackets;
• reinforced tape;
• electrical cables;
• thermal insulation;
• anchor;
• copper tubes.

During the installation process you cannot do without such a special tool:

• vacuum pump;
• pipe bending and rolling;
• Rimmer-stripping;
• manometer and pipe cutter.

The indoor module must be installed so that during use there is no discomfort caused by strong cold air.

Many people think about buying an air conditioner exclusively in the summer, when the prices for such equipment are too high. To save money, there is a completely reasonable solution - buying an air conditioner and installing it in winter.

It is quite possible to install the device in winter. Installing the device in the cold, namely attaching modules and connecting blocks, is no different from similar actions in warm weather.

It is important to know at what temperature problems may occur. The main difficulties with vacuumization and filling the system arise if the air temperature is below five degrees below zero. Operating or turning on the air conditioner at low temperatures can cause it.

Air conditioner connection

There are two proven methods by which you can connect the device yourself, namely through or using a separate wire connected to the electrical panel.

By installing a residual current device, you can protect the device from network overload and voltage surges. Thanks to a separate line, it is possible to place modules absolutely anywhere. It is advisable to take into account the list of important requirements put forward to the line:

• copper conductors;
• the presence of separate grounding along the entire line;
• AZO or RCD;
• compliance of the wire diameter with the size specified by the manufacturer.

An electrical harness is passed into the protective hose and then placed in an appropriate plastic box, which will help avoid damage to the integrity of the walls.

Requirements for a home outlet:

• It is desirable to have a good grounding;
• connection to the panel via automatic protection.

To properly connect the device, you can use the wire of the size marked for specific model. Do not run wires near heating or gas. Place the bundles in the grooves and carefully secure them with clamps.

Layout of split system elements

As for the principle and technology for connecting modules, it is absolutely similar. First you need to remove the front panel; it serves a decorative function. Remove the protection cover and the cable clamp at the bottom. Pull the cable through the opening in the wall, remove the protective insulation 3 cm from the end from each core. Insert the ends into the terminals and tighten the screws. Strengthen the wires and replace the cover. After connecting the blocks, you should carefully check the correctness of all connections by checking the diagrams, after which a trial connection is allowed.

How to properly install a split system yourself

Algorithm of actions:

Fixing the indoor unit

Take the mounting steel frame, then attach it horizontally to the wall using a level where the hair dryer will be located. Carefully mark all fastening points, make holes with a puncher and hammer in plastic dowels. Use self-tapping screws to secure the plate. Hang the hair dryer, checking the level.

Preparatory work with communication channels

To install the device yourself, you must properly prepare the channel for the highway. Make appropriate holes in the wall using a hammer drill and install the refrigerant circuit pipe. During the drilling process, you need to make a not very sharp slope so that a full-fledged path is formed for the discharge of the resulting condensate.

Fixing the outdoor unit

This is the most difficult part of the work, since the mass of the block can exceed twenty kilograms. Often it is necessary to mount at a fairly high height. Use a level to mark and use a hammer drill to make holes of the required diameter. Screw in the anchor bolts and fasten the brackets. After this you are allowed to install external unit. During the installation process you will need the help of at least one person. If the height is too high, it is advisable to contact climbers. Considering the fact that the module is secured with bolts, it is advisable to place rubber under the feet, this will help reduce possible vibration.

Connecting two modules

Remove all protective plastic covers from the outdoor module terminals, then carefully connect all the cables coming from the indoor unit. Install the split system route, not forgetting to insulate the pipes. To prevent debris from getting into them, the ends can be sealed with reinforced tape. Attach the route to the wall with clamps, cut off the tubes, but there should be a margin of ten centimeters; union nuts are attached to them. Remove the chamfer using a special trimmer. Use union nuts to attach the tubes to the fittings of the external and internal units. Then carefully attach the drainage tube; you can use plastic clamps for this.

Vacuum procedure

Before starting the freon, you need to perform a vacuum using a manifold or pump. As for the pump, it should be connected to the fitting through the manifold and turned on for half an hour. This time is enough to eliminate the air. When the pump is turned on, you need to open the handle; it is located under the pressure gauge. After the procedure, turn off the tap located on the manifold, then you can turn off the pump.

Freon filling

You can start the refrigerant using a hex wrench by opening the valve. Having filled the route with freon, the hose is unscrewed. It is important to know that in the process of disconnecting the hose, a release of refrigerant may occur, and this can cause eye damage and frostbite on your hands. Gloves and safety glasses will help you avoid trouble. Unscrew the fitting from the valve quickly so as not to lose freon. Clean possible leak points and check plugs.

After making sure that the seal is 100% tight, you can perform a test run of the device, then check the connections again.

Installing a split system is a difficult job, and watching the process of installing an external air conditioner unit on the wall of some high-rise building is sometimes, frankly speaking, even scary. But there is nothing supernatural in this work, and below we will tell you how to install the air conditioner yourself, although you will probably need an assistant.

Tools and consumables

Installing an air conditioner yourself will require the use of expensive tools. This primarily applies to vacuum pump, the simplest version of which costs a couple of hundred dollars. You can rent this equipment, ask a familiar technician, etc., because it is very difficult to install an air conditioner correctly without it. True, looking ahead, we will say that it is possible to do without a vacuum pump; there will be no guarantee of quality.

So, you will need following materials for installation:

1. The vacuum pump we just talked about.
2. A professional SDS+ hammer drill with a power of at least 750 W with a 22 mm diameter drill bit, but it is better to use a special industrial hammer drill with a 40 mm drill bit, then you won’t have to drill two holes in the wall.
3. The hammer drill will also require 6x60 mm drills for attaching the indoor unit and 12x200 mm drills for attaching the outdoor unit.
4. Good rolling preferably with a polished cone. Otherwise, when rolling, you will definitely cut copper dust and shavings, which will damage the compressor.
5. Pipe cutter Pipes cannot be cut with a regular hacksaw. The reason again is large quantities the resulting chips and uneven edges of the cutting area, due to which it will be impossible to perform high-quality flaring, and installing the air conditioner yourself will be performed poorly.
6. A pair of brackets that can support up to 60 kg of weight for attaching the outdoor unit.
7. Copper tubes for arranging routes with a diameter of 3/8 and 1/4 inches are for low-power household air conditioners of 7 and 9 BTU/h (British thermal unit, the number is indicated on the package). More powerful devices use other diameters.
8. Sponge special insulation for thick and thin copper tubes.

You will also need a plastic drainage tube, aluminum tape for wrapping pipes behind the wall, a 60x80 mm box for the route in the apartment, as well as a level and other materials for installation, which are usually always available in stock.

More information about the air conditioner

To understand how to install an air conditioner yourself, you need to understand some of the details of the device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner. The main element is the outdoor unit and, accordingly, the compressor. into it The plant has already pumped in freon to fill the five-meter route, although self-respecting installers usually take a refrigerant bottle with them just in case. You can read about how to recharge the air conditioner.

There are two fittings on one side of the external block.

On one you can see a couple of nuts:

• the first, with a copper or plastic plug - for connecting a thin copper tube of the route;
• the second, blind, under which is hidden a control valve with a hexagon valve - by turning it, freon is launched into the system after the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed.

The second fitting has three nuts:

• with a plug – for connecting a thick copper tube;
• blind nut under which the valve is located;
• the third, located in the opposite direction to the highway, hides the refueling port.

It is connected to the system until the control valve is turned and serves for refilling as well as measuring the refrigerant pressure. When installing the air conditioner with our own hands, we will use it - we will need it to connect the vacuum pump.

Brass nuts with a cone connect the ports to copper tubes without any gaskets - tightened with a force of 70-80 kg, they completely tightly press the copper to the cone. These nuts can be loosened a little, but the plugs cannot be removed - nothing should get inside. Next, we’ll tell you how to install an air conditioner yourself.

Installation of the indoor unit

It is better to mount it closer to the external wall, so that installing the air conditioner yourself does not involve laying a long route. It is necessary to leave about thirty centimeters from the ceiling for the indoor unit so that nothing interferes with the air intake.

The metal mounting frame of the device is mounted horizontally and level. Next, you need to decide where the box will be, for which you can attach it to the frame indoor unit. There will be drainage along the box to remove condensate, so it should be placed at a slope, but small - about 5 mm per 30 cm in length.

Difficult stage

Having completed the installation of the indoor unit and having marked where the box will connect to the external wall, you can begin drilling the hole outward. You can use a powerful professional hammer drill, but you will have to drill not one, but two and in some cases even three holes.

Drainage will be discharged into the lower one, electrical wiring and copper tubes. For obvious reasons, both holes should be drilled at an angle - the same or even steeper than that of the box. Upon completion of the work, communications should be extended.

Installation of the outdoor unit

It is installed on an external wall. If there open balcony– great, installing an air conditioner in winter will even be safe. On a loggia, the air conditioner can be mounted on the front or side, which is usually in the shade. The rules for installing an air conditioner prohibit installation inside a glazed balcony, or the windows must be open during operation.

First, the brackets are attached - holes are marked and drilled, the first bracket is leveled, then the second. The distance between the mounting legs of the outdoor unit must be measured in advance in order to know at what distance from each other to mount the brackets.

The block is installed and screwed onto them. The route should already be laid out by this time. Copper tubes in concrete do not need to be insulated, but in other areas they must be insulated - stretch the tubes with sponge insulation, wrap the joints with electrical tape, ensuring the tightness of the connection, otherwise the installation of the air conditioner yourself will be carried out poorly.

Route assembly

The brass nuts are unscrewed from the short tubes of the indoor unit, the plugs are removed, and the copper tubes are connected. At the beginning of the process, a hissing sound will be heard - this is the release of an inert gas pumped into the unit at the factory to prevent corrosion.

Before installing the air conditioner yourself, it makes sense to practice cutting and flaring copper pipes, as this is a very responsible process. After the indoor unit, the outdoor unit should be connected to the route in the same way. In this case, there is no need to worry about freon leakage - you have not opened the ports yet.

Evacuating the system

Although you can install the air conditioner yourself, you will still need a vacuum pump. It is connected to the charging port and turned on for 15-30 minutes.

The main thing in this process is not removing air from the system (which happens literally in a minute), but removing moisture from the system, which is detrimental to the compressor.

Within a quarter of an hour, watch the pressure gauge needle, which should not “creep” back to the zero mark. If the arrow does not move, you can proceed to the next step; if not, then the tightness of the connections has not been achieved. In this case, before installing the air conditioner yourself, you need to find and fix the leak.

Starting the system

1. You need to insert a hexagon into the control valve of the lower port (near the thick copper tube) and carefully turn it until it stops. Until this point, the pump hose must not be disconnected!
2. After filling the route with freon, the filling port will be locked - the vacuum pump hose can be unscrewed.
3. In the same way, open the second port next to the thin tube on the top fitting.

When you install the electrical part, start the air conditioner in cooling mode. In a few minutes, the indoor unit will start cold air.

Installation secrets

By the way, installing an air conditioner in winter is also quite possible. True, installing an air conditioner in winter requires less comfortable conditions, but you need to be more careful to ensure that no snow or water gets into the line during work. But it’s better to open the valves and run freon into the system at above-zero temperatures - the rubber seal of the valve “stubs” and may fail.

In conclusion, we will tell you how to install an air conditioner yourself without a vacuum process and, accordingly, without a pump. This is possible on a hot summer day when the air is very dry. To do this, the nut on the thin copper pipe must not be fully tightened, and then very slowly open the control valve on the thick pipe.

Freon will displace air with its pressure, but you need to accurately catch the moment when cold freon comes out from under the nut on a thin tube and quickly tighten it. This method, we repeat, is incorrect, especially if the air conditioner is installed in winter; you will not be able to check the tightness of the connections, but in certain situations this self installation air conditioning is possible.

Video instruction

Below we present a video in which, in five minutes, the process of installing an air conditioner is described in some detail - installing an external unit, an internal one, connecting the route and filling the system with freon.

In contact with

Installing an air conditioner is not an easy task, but it can be done! At each stage many questions arise. This is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to give one standard scheme - each case is individual. If you don’t know where to start installation, in what sequence to perform operations, then this article is for you!

There are many recommendations and guides on the Internet, but they are not very specific. In this post I will highlight the nuances that arise at each installation step - I will try to make clear instructions. So that with the help of it everyone can perform a simple installation of a household split system. But before starting work, read the entire article.

• if the “route” of the air conditioner is very long and has complex bends;
• if the highway will pass through several walls;
• if the external unit is installed at a high altitude (above the second floor);
• if the diameter of at least one of the pipes is greater than 3/8 inch.

Air conditioner installation

1. The first stage is the most difficult. It is necessary to imagine how the “route” between them will be laid. Each factor should be taken into account:

On mounting plate mark the center of the block. Then we mark the center on the wall. Don't forget about the distance to the ceiling. Using a level, level the plate and secure it.

After this, you can fit the indoor unit to the fixed plate (but do not snap the lower clips to the plate!). Use a pencil to mark the lower corners of the body. Then remove the block from the plate.

1. Mark where the hole will be in the outer wall.

Carefully cut through the wallpaper and knock off the plaster at the drilling point. If the installation is direct or as in the photo above, then you need to make a so-called “approach” to the hole (where the tubes will enter the wall). So that in this place the bend of the “route” is smooth.

• for brick or concrete walls you will need a large hammer drill and a drill with a pobedite tip. Drill the first 2-3 cm of the wall without tilting (in a straight line) so that the drill barely enters the wall. Then be sure to bend down. During this operation it is better to use an industrial vacuum cleaner.
• wooden wall It's better to drill with a drill feather drill with a diameter of 45 mm. The process will go slowly but surely. Don't forget to tilt the hole down.
• It is better to drill a metal profile or “sandwich” with a 45mm bimetallic crown. Also, do not forget about the downward slope of the hole.

1. If the air conditioner “route” needs to be pulled through just one hole in the wall, then you can proceed as follows:

We conveniently position the indoor unit and connect the materials to it:

We form the following materials into one compact bundle:

1. With the help of a partner, we drag the indoor block with the “route” through the hole in the wall. We hang it on the plate, but do not snap the lower clips!
   
2. We bring the power cable to the desired place inside the room (but do not connect it!). If required, we close the “route” inside the room with a cable channel. Snap the lower clips of the block.
   
3. We throw the external unit onto the brackets and screw it securely. We carefully bring the “route” from the outside to the taps of the external unit.
   
4. We unscrew the nuts of the taps of the external unit (make sure that nothing gets into the open fittings). We put the nuts on the tubes, after which we roll them. We screw the copper tubes to the fittings.
   
5. We connect the interconnect cable in the same way as to the indoor unit. If the air conditioner comes with an additional wire, then connect it to the appropriate block. We connect the “power” cable if, according to the diagram, it goes to the external unit.
   
6. Further you will need pressure gauges and a vacuum pump(pressure gauges must match the type of freon). Be careful here:

• connect the LEFT hose of the pressure gauge to the fitting of the external unit (to which a large diameter tube fits). Connect the MIDDLE pressure gauge hose to the vacuum pump;
  
• start the pump and open the LEFT tap on the pressure gauge (counterclockwise);
  
• We wait a few minutes until the air is pumped out. For small air conditioners (up to 2.7 kW of power) and a short “path” (up to 5 meters), wait 8 to 10 minutes;
• at the end of the “pumping out”, close the LEFT valve of the pressure gauge, and immediately after that turn off the pump. We look at the pressure gauge readings (the arrow should be at “-1”). If in your case refueling with freon is required, then read the relevant articles ();
  
• open the tap of the thin tube on the external block with a hexagon. At the same time, we look at the readings of the pressure gauges - “catch” the arrow at about 3 bar. We watch the arrow for 5 minutes - it should not move to 0 bar (which will indicate the tightness of the tube connections);
  
• Next, unscrew the LEFT pressure gauge hose from the air conditioner. Here you need to be VERY careful and QUICKLY unscrew the hose so as not to get burned by the freon (be sure to wear gloves). Even experienced specialists can suffer during this operation;
  
• open both taps on the external block with a hexagon (counterclockwise). After this we can close all the plugs.
  

Approximately the same instructions are in a separate article.

Thus, the installation of the air conditioner is complete! This article is not universal instructions for all household air conditioners. But in most cases it will be relevant, and I hope it will help you install an air conditioner. Look detailed video for installation of a split system.

If you have anything to add, leave a comment!

Show content articles

Split systems provide coolness in the hot season, normalize the microclimate and purify the air. High price installation work encourages you to start connecting climate control equipment yourself. Sequential installation of a powerful air conditioner, done by yourself, is possible only if you follow the step-by-step instructions and standards.

Selecting a location

The presence of two or more units of climate control equipment requires a choice of location for each of them. Before starting installation work, you will need accompanying documentation.

Do I need permission to install an air conditioner?

Structurally, the air conditioner is a system with an indoor and outdoor unit, which is mounted on the facade.

Multi-storey building, on the basis of Art. 246 of the Civil Code is common property with the right of disposal by all owners. Installation of equipment without approval is a violation:

• the device makes noise, buzzes, disturbing the peace of the neighbors;
• condensation can damage the façade of the building or get onto the balcony below;
• the overall block blocks the view or view and windows;
• There are risks of wall cracking, wiring shorting and fire.

Based on paragraph 1 of Art. 25 LCD installation of a split system is considered as a reconstruction or re-equipment of the premises. Clause 3.5.8 of Resolution No. 170 states that it is prohibited to install an air conditioner without permission from the management company and neighbors. Consent or refusal can only be obtained after a meeting of the residents of the house.

Important! Residents of private homes can begin installation immediately after purchasing the device.

Permission is required if:

• installation work is carried out on the front part of the high-rise building;
• the user lives in a house that is valuable from a historical and cultural point of view;
• the split system is located above the pedestrian paths;
• on window opening where the block is located, there are no special fences.

Important! Management Company has no right to remove air conditioners. Art. 330 of the Criminal Code considers such actions as arbitrariness. Dismantling of devices is carried out only by court order.

Choosing a location for the indoor unit

Installation of the internal air conditioner module is carried out with your own hands so that cold air flows do not cause discomfort. It can be placed above the head of the sofa, on the side and behind the workplace. Construction regulations define the order of location of the indoor unit:

• from the structure to the ceiling - at least 15 cm;
• from the module to the right or left wall - at least 30 cm;
• from the block to the floor - 280 cm, but for apartments on the ground floor the external block is mounted at the same level or lower than the internal one;
• from obstacles to the movement of air flows - no less than 150 cm;

Advice! In a room with a sofa and TV, it is better to place the air conditioner above the sofa.

Where to locate the outdoor unit?

The outdoor module is placed near a window opening or on an open loggia. If the balcony is glazed, the block is placed on a fence with good load-bearing capacity or on the facade. Residents of the 1-2 floors need to determine a place for the outdoor module as far as possible from passers-by. On the 3rd or more floors, it is allowed to place the device under a window or on the side.

In a private house, the outdoor unit is placed on a wall with high load-bearing capacity. On ventilated facades they organize special mount or place the block on the plinth.

Determining the distance between blocks

The maximum length of the intermodule route is 6 m; if it is exceeded, additional freon injection will be required. If the external and internal modules are placed at a distance of 1 m, the route should not exceed 5 m. The excess of the system is formed into a ring and placed behind the block.

Interesting to know! Manufacturers indicate different maximum distances between blocks. For Daikin equipment it is 1.5-2.5 m, for Panasonic - 3 m.

What you need for installation

Consistent installation of a good split system when doing it yourself should be carried out taking into account ease of access during maintenance and ergonomic criteria - cold air should not have direct access to resting and working areas.

Approximate layout of split systems

The appropriate layout for installing a new air conditioner depends on the type of unit. The indoor module can be hung:

• to the left of the outside. The track is flat, the block is located 0.5 m from the wall. When turning the line onto an adjacent wall, the distance can be reduced to 0.1 m. The output and the route are masked under the cover of the equipment;
• on the left of external wall without laying cables on the facade. Communications are laid in the corner of the room and hidden in a box. They hide him under the curtain;
• to the right of outer wall. A typical solution involves laying the route in a box from the wall or laying it in a groove.

Advice! Use the groove laying technology if there is a ban on laying the route on the facade.

Outdoor unit can be placed:

• on the loggia or balcony. The module is fixed frontally or sideways for ease of maintenance;
• on glassed balcony. The window sash should be above the air conditioner. To prevent snow, moisture or debris from getting on the block, install a visor and plastic;
• under the window. This option is suitable for rooms without a balcony;
• next to the window. The block is placed at the level of the bottom of the window.

Air conditioner installation options

Advice! Do not use hollow or metal materials for the visor - they have low noise insulation.

Equipment

When installing climate control equipment yourself, you will need:

• perforator for making through holes for the output of pipes, cables, drainage pipes;
• a pipe cutter with a sharp blade or a hacksaw for metal;
• file and rimmer for trimming nicks;
• a pipe bender or a special spring for forming copper pipes;
• a drill with drills of different diameters to make holes for the mounting plates;
• pipe calibrator and flarer;
• wall chaser, which can be replaced with a chisel, sledgehammer and hammer;
• vacuum pump to start the air conditioning system;
• screwdrivers, hex wrenches, level.

Important! Cutting pipes with a hacksaw involves smoothing the edges with sandpaper.

Materials and consumables

Use only quality materials, selecting them according to the type of equipment:

• supply wire for power supply and connection of modules - power cable for 4 cores with a cross section of 2 mm2×2.5 mm2;
• seamless copper pipes with the diameter specified in the instructions. The length of the products is equal to the length of the route, and the margin is about 30 cm;
• insulating insulation (foamed rubber) - sections along the length of the route;
• synthetic insulation;
• corrugated hose with an internal plastic spiral for drainage or propylene pipe along the length of the route plus 80 cm;
• L-shaped brackets (2 pcs.) for fixing the outdoor unit with a permissible load limit of 5 times the weight of the device;
• fastening elements - bolts, dowels and anchors, selected according to the type of brackets for the internal module.

Important! To hide the route you will need a plastic box 60x80 cm.

Basic rules for installing and connecting an air conditioner

Installation and connection of a household air conditioner when doing it yourself requires compliance with a number of requirements.

Rules for installing the outdoor unit

The module is configured as follows:

1. Checking a balcony or facade for strength is 2 times more equipment, which weighs from 10-15 to 40 kg.
2. Inspection of brackets on external insulation - they must be hidden in the wall material.
3. Laying a damping seal on a ventilated facade or aerated concrete walls.
4. Taking into account equipment noise - the maximum permissible level is from 25 to 30 dB.
5. Check for distortions at each stage of installation to prevent refrigerant leakage.
6. Installation in a windy area with a canopy for protection from bad weather.
7. Maintain a line distance of 15-20 cm if the equipment is located on the roof.
8. Connecting the condensate collection pipe to the sewer.

Important! The distance from the outdoor unit to the wall surface is at least 10 cm.

Rules for installing the indoor unit

A second module is installed in the room and a line is laid:

1. Connection to the electrical network with the organization of an individual line - the energy consumption of the air conditioner is 2 kW.
2. Laying the main line externally (hidden in a box) or internally (hidden in a wall) methods.
3. Maintain a distance between blocks of a maximum of 6 m for efficient work designs.
4. Removal household appliances, curtains from the device by 3 m.
5. The air conditioner is not located above radiators or furniture.
6. Maintain a distance of 20-25 cm from the block to the ceiling.

Important! The indoor unit is mounted on the wall or ceiling.

Installing an air conditioner yourself

Correct installation of a powerful split system will be done with high quality by yourself if you follow the sequential work instructions.

Installation of the indoor unit

The internal module or hair dryer is installed immediately. Installation activities include:

1. Taking measurements from the device.
2. Place the steel mounting frame on the wall strictly horizontally, checking with a level.
3. Marking the points where the fasteners will be.
4. Making holes in the wall with a hammer drill.
5. Fixing plastic dowels with a hammer.
6. Attaching the mounting panel to the wall and fixing it with self-tapping screws.
7. Hanging the hair dryer on a special plate and checking that it is horizontal.

Important! If there are distortions, there is a risk of condensation accumulating on the pallet and flowing onto the walls.

Laying a communication line

Experts advise users who do not know how to properly connect a household air conditioner without making mistakes with their own hands, to start by preparing the main channels.

Electrical connections

High energy consumption of split systems (more than 1.5 kW) requires the organization of a separate line and the installation of an RCD. For the main line, a cable with a cross-section of 1.5-2 mm2 and automatic shutdowns are used. A yellow cable with a green stripe running along it is connected to the neutral (zero) wire of the input panel. Using the indicator, zero and phase are determined. If non-standard wires are used, neutral and phase sections are marked at both ends.

Air conditioner connection diagram
Installation diagram

Holes

It is better to carry out the work together:

• V block houses the locations for laying the reinforcement are determined so as not to harm the load-bearing walls;
• the assistant should be below and report on the installation;
• holes are drilled using a hammer drill;
• for houses without thermal insulation, the diameter is 50-60 mm, for thermally insulated buildings - at least 80 mm.

After preparing the holes, you need to install the brackets.

Pipelines

For preparation and installation you will need:

1. Slice copper pipe with a bend reserve of 1 m.
2. After cutting, carefully bend the product without kinks, observing the maximum radius of 10 cm.
3. Place flexible thermal insulation on the tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber should not be used due to rapid wear.
4. Place special flanges on the end of the pipe with threads.
5. Flare the ends of the tubes.
6. Connect the pipeline, cold and hot fittings one by one, checking their diameter.
7. Tighten the fitting flange firmly, but not too tightly.
8. Make a drainage channel from a section of reinforced plastic pipe, connecting it to the drain with a flange or heat-shrinkable pipe.
9. Make a solder by working the soldering iron in a circle.

Important! If the pipes are severely bent, the refrigerant will move unevenly, increasing electricity consumption.

Outdoor unit installation

The external module of the split system weighs more than 20 kg due to the compressor. Work at height is carried out with the involvement of 1-2 people:

1. Marking is organized using a level.
2. Holes are made using a hammer drill, taking into account the thermal insulation of the house.
3. Anchor bolts are screwed into the holes.
4. The brackets are screwed with a nut to the bolts.
5. To reduce vibrations, rubber is placed under the feet of the outdoor module.
6. The quality of the fasteners is checked and the external module is hung.

Important! If the outdoor module is installed on the 3rd floor or higher, it is advisable to contact industrial climbers.

Connecting system units

The blocks are connected through channels in the wall with the cable connected to terminals similar to the color of the main wiring. If there is a difference in the level of the modules by more than 5 m, a special loop. If the difference is smaller, the loop is not performed.

Drainage

Drainage channels are equipped with a discharge to the street or to the sewer. The pipes are connected as follows:

1. A corrugation is pulled onto the outlet of the indoor unit (a plastic tube with a tip).
2. The connection is secured with a clamp.
3. A hose is attached to the outlet of the outdoor unit to remove moisture from the walls.
4. When using a polymer pipe, an adapter is selected.

Drainage pipes must be laid with a slope. The maximum is 3 mm*1 m, the minimum is 1 mm*1 m.

Freon circulation system

Copper refrigerant tubes are bent using a pipe bender or a spring without sharp turns. The connection begins with the indoor unit - the nuts are unscrewed from the ports. As they weaken, the hissing of nitrogen is heard. After it stops, remove the plugs, remove the nuts, put them on the tube and begin rolling.

Rolling

After removing the plugs from the tubes:

1. The evenness of the edges is checked.
2. The jags are smoothed out with sandpaper.
3. The cross section is adjusted using a calibrator and the edges are aligned by 5 cm.
4. The extreme parts are flared for fastening at the inlet and outlet.
5. During flaring, the edge of the pipe is directed downward and fixed with a 2 mm exit.
6. The flaring cone is placed on the edge of the pipe and tightened with force.
7. Rolling ends when the cone does not pass into the edge.

The operation is repeated for all segments.

Port connection

The flared end of the tube is connected to the outlet, and the nut is tightened. No sealants or additional gaskets are used. For strong fixation, a pressure of 50-70 kg will be required so that the copper is flattened and the connection becomes monolithic. Work is being done for all exits.

Leak test

A solution is used for sealing. You will need 0.5 liters of distilled water, heated to boiling water. Dissolve 1 tbsp in liquid. l. laundry soap. The outlet nipple is removed and a bicycle pump is put on the pipe. When pumping, the compound is applied with a brush, and the thread is tightened until bubbles stop forming by 1/8.

Important! It is better to remove soap scum with a damp cloth.

Vacuuming

Vacuuming helps remove moisture, dust, and excess air. The system is pumped with a special pump for 60 minutes. During this time, moisture and remaining air are completely removed.

Filling and watering

The system is filled from a cylinder with refrigerant. The reservoir is connected via a pressure gauge with an adapter. The pressure is injected to the value specified in the manufacturer's documentation. Electric wires connected via terminals - zero to zero or neutral. Phase ones are connected by color.

Important! Air conditioners with refrigerant are not filled with freon and vice versa.

Testing

The check is carried out as follows:

1. The circuit breaker turns on.
2. The air conditioner goes into test mode automatically.
3. For some models, the test is activated from the remote control.
4. If air flows at the end of the test, the position of the blinds is set.
5. Thermal shielding is performed with thin aluminum - this saves 2-3% more electricity.
6. The harness and drainage pipe are wrapped with insulating tape that is resistant to moisture.

On last stage holes in the wall are carefully sealed.

Common mistakes during air conditioner installation

With unprofessional installation, users can make a number of mistakes:

• laying pipes with kinks - increases the load on the compressor;
• installing an external unit on a balcony with glazing - normal air circulation is lost;
• location of the air conditioner next to welding machines;
• uneven arrangement of blocks - condensation begins to flow onto the floor;
• choosing equipment that does not have an auto-defrost option - in heating mode, the external unit freezes.

For normal operation of the air conditioner, you need to regularly clean the filters and drainage channels. When overloaded, the system becomes noisy - the fan is unbalanced or the bearings wear out. These breakdowns should only be repaired by a specialist.

1. Automatic switches designed for boilers and washing machines are suitable for split systems.
2. If the drainage pipes sag too much, condensation accumulates.
3. If you have never done flaring before, practice on an unnecessary piece of pipe.
4. It is better to carry out sealing together.
5. After connecting the pipeline, you need to blow out the holes polyurethane foam or fill with silicone sealant.

Watch a video on how to install an air conditioner yourself

Choosing a location for placing the external and internal units of the split system.
Below we provide standard schemes installation of air conditioners, most successfully combining the location of indoor and outdoor units. You need to determine the location of the indoor and outdoor units based on the following parameters:
Location of the indoor air conditioner unit: left or right
Location of the external (outdoor) unit: under the window, between the windows, on the balcony railing, on the balcony
Route location method: indoors or outdoors

Scheme No. 1. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external under the window.

This is the most commonly practiced air conditioner installation scheme. The indoor unit of the split system is installed on the wall adjacent to the facade, and the outdoor unit is hung under the window. The convenience of this scheme, along with the ease of installation and further maintenance of the air conditioner, is that the indoor unit creates a directed flow along the window, without affecting in most cases the area where people are constantly present. Interblock communications, if the air conditioner is installed during the renovation of an apartment, are recommended to be laid in the wall, making the necessary recess in it. If the apartment has already been renovated, then the highway can be covered with a decorative box.

Scheme No. 2. Installation of the indoor air conditioner unit on the right wall, external between the windows.

This scheme has all the advantages of option No. 1. In addition, interblock communications are extremely small and do not create problems for both the interior of the room and the facade of the house. From the outside, this installation option looks very neat and natural. The downside is the somewhat higher cost of installation (taking into account possible high-altitude work) and some inconvenience during maintenance and repair.

Scheme No. 3. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external near the balcony.

This scheme is similar in functionality to option No. 1. Its big advantage is that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner does not block the view from the window at all. However, there is also a subtle point - the balcony should either not be glazed or have windows that open from the end. Otherwise, both during installation and maintenance of the air conditioner, the services of an industrial climber will be required.

Scheme No. 4. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external one on the balcony railing.

In this scheme, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is installed directly on the balcony railing. The only condition is that the balcony railing to which the outdoor unit is attached must be suitable for this.

Scheme No. 5. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external one on the balcony railing.

Perhaps this is the most effective installation scheme for an air conditioner using a balcony. Also suitable for most loggias, including glazed ones. If the installation of the air conditioner is carried out before renovation, then the route can be hidden under the balcony trim. The only condition is that the balcony railing to which the outdoor unit is attached must be suitable for this.

Scheme No. 6. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the left wall, external under the window.

This is the most commonly practiced air conditioner installation scheme. The indoor unit of the split system is installed on the wall adjacent to the facade, and the outdoor unit is hung under the window. The convenience of this scheme, along with the ease of installation and further maintenance of the air conditioner, is that the indoor unit creates a directed flow along the window, without affecting in most cases the area where people are constantly present. You also need to understand that when installing an indoor unit on the left wall, it will not be possible to bring this unit as close as possible to the corner of the room, because With this installation, you have to turn out the communication tails.

Scheme No. 7. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the left wall, external near the balcony.

The big advantage of this scheme is that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner does not block the view from the window at all. However, there is a subtle point - even if the balcony is not glazed, there is a high probability that the services of an industrial climber will be required. You also need to understand that when installing an indoor unit on the left wall, it will not be possible to bring this unit as close as possible to the corner of the room, because With this installation, you have to turn out the communication tails.

Scheme No. 8. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the left wall, external one on the balcony railing.

Perhaps this is the most effective installation scheme for an air conditioner using a balcony. Also suitable for most loggias, including glazed ones. If the installation of the air conditioner is carried out before renovation, then the route can be hidden under the balcony trim. The only condition is that the balcony railing to which the outdoor unit is attached must be suitable for this. You also need to understand that when installing an indoor unit on the left wall, it will not be possible to bring this unit as close as possible to the corner of the room, because With this installation, you have to turn out the communication tails.

Scheme No. 9. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit between the windows, external under the left window.

Scheme No. 10. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit between the windows, external under the right window.

This option is good because the air flow from the air conditioner is evenly distributed throughout the room and helps create a uniform temperature environment in any part of it. To install the indoor unit, a sufficient width of the inter-window wall opening and the absence of curtains in this part are required. It is recommended to use the scheme if the central area of ​​the room does not involve frequent presence in it, because This is where the main flow of cooled air will be directed. The outdoor unit of the air conditioner is installed under the window, which, as in all similar cases, makes it easy to maintain.

Scheme No. 11. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit between the windows, the external one between the windows.

The layout of the indoor air conditioner unit is similar to the previous option with the installation of the outdoor unit on the side of the window, the purpose of which is to reduce the inter-unit distance and reduce the length of the line as much as possible. I must say that such a scheme will fit very well into an already renovated room, because... will not require laying communications in grooves or using decorative boxes for this. Installation of the air conditioner is carried out, as installers say, “block to block”. It is recommended to use the scheme if the central area of ​​the room does not involve frequent presence in it, because This is where the main flow of cooled air will be directed.

Scheme No. 12. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit near the window, the external one on the side of the window.

This scheme is rational if there is enough space between the window and the adjacent wall to mount the internal air conditioner unit and it is not planned to use curtains along the entire length of the window wall. There should be no work tables, chairs, beds, etc. in the air flow area. It is quite convenient to position the internal unit of a split system in this way if, for example, you have audio/video equipment installed along the wall along which the flow will be directed.