Cut a window in a wooden house - We make door and window openings in a wooden house

Wooden houses have been built since ancient times. Previously, there was quite a lot of such building material, so all the walls were erected in one piece and only at the end were openings for windows and doors made.

The process of installing a door in a log house depends on what material will be used for construction.

In today's world, to achieve maximum savings, all openings are pre-marked. This will reduce the amount of waste. Installation of the door in the log house is carried out after the completion of the construction of the walls and roof. When building walls, it is very important to leave solid logs or beams in the place of the door opening, this will prevent the crowns from being squeezed out. After the entire structure is strengthened, solid logs are sawn from the opening.

The process of installing a door in a log house directly depends on what material is used for construction. Regardless of what is used (log or timber) for building a house, the installation of the door is the same. To install the door, it is very important to pause. Such a temporary break should be counted from the moment of complete completion of the construction of the walls and the completion of the assembly of the entire roof structure and be about 6 months.

During this period, the house will shrink partially. Over the next year, the design will give the maximum possible shrinkage. Shrinkage rates will depend not only on specifications but also on the moisture content of the wood.

On average, the period of complete shrinkage can reach 6 years. Throughout the year, the house can change its height up to 5 cm. Based on such indicators, work on installing a door in a log house should be carried out using a special technology. By following certain rules, you can avoid such a phenomenon as skew. Today there are two options that can be used to install the door:

installation of a special casing bar;
installation of casing when using a bar.

What may be needed in the process?

To get started, that is, to arrange a door in a log house, it is worth preparing everything necessary tools. This will allow you to complete all the work much faster. You will need:

saw;
hammer;
drill;
circular;
chisel;
building square;
roulette;
level;
nails, bolts, screws.

Door installation tools: saw; hammer; drill; circular; chisel; building square; roulette; level; nails; bolts; self-tapping screws.

Using a saw, you need to make an opening in which the door will be installed. It is necessary to cut it in such a way that, as a result, half of the beam remains at the top and bottom. To check the level, normal construction tool not enough to get the most accurate result. It is better to use a plumb line or a laser level.

With the help of a cutter, a kind of groove measuring 50x50 is cut out at the end of the opening. In order to adjust the exact dimensions, it is worth using a chisel and a chisel. After the groove is ready, it is necessary to install a bar with a section size of 50 * 50 mm into it. It is very important to consider the length of the bar. If the log house is relatively fresh, then the length should be 5 cm less. If the log house gave a hollow shrinkage, then the length should be only 2 cm less.

If the walls are made of logs, then for strength it is enough to use one bar. If the house is built of timber or cylindering, then such reinforcement is not enough, since too large forces will act on it. To strengthen the bar, a board with a thickness of up to 50 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall is attached to it. Very often in construction, specialists use a steel channel instead of a wooden bar.

After the side bars are fixed, work should begin on the formation of the doorway in the log house. To do this, below, to the lower logs, a board is nailed - a threshold. For maximum strength, it is best to use a 100 mm bar that is cut in a T-shape.

Features of casing from a bar

No less popular today is a method for mounting a door in wooden house is the installation of casing from a bar. Getting started on sawing the opening is no different from the first method. Just like in the first option, it is necessary to make a spike, the width of which should be 50 mm and the height - about 38 mm. For casing, it is necessary to use a beam measuring 100x100. In the middle of the bar, it is worth cutting a groove 50 mm wide and 40 mm deep. In order to make a groove, it is best to use cutters. The height of the bar should also be selected depending on the shrinkage of the house. If the structure did not shrink completely, then 5 cm should be retreated from the top of the opening. If the structure has given maximum shrinkage, then the gap between the bar and the top can be no more than 2 cm.

At the top, the casing can be fixed with two different ways. The first option is to use a board with a section of 50x200 mm, which is installed by surprise. To fix it, you should use self-tapping screws. The second option involves installing the top bar above the side ones. Thus, the use of screws and other fasteners is not necessary.

The nuances of installing doors in a log house

In the normal case, when installing the casing system, the box does not need to be installed. The exception is when, as finishing material used wooden lining. In this case, the box is placed on mounting foam. After installation, the box is closed with platbands. If shrinkage occurs, they can be reattached again or new ones installed.

A very common question is: how to install a metal door in a log house? The casing installation methods remain unchanged. The only thing is that you can not install the upper pigtail. Instead, it is worth leaving a gap that is 10 cm. This will allow shrinkage to occur naturally. In this case, the surfaces are not broken or deformed. The advantage of a metal door is its durability. The metal box is able to withstand almost any wood pressure during shrinkage.

Side casings are made along the entire height of the doorway.

It is worth following the recommendations regarding the size of the doorway. The height of the opening should be 15 cm more. This is necessary in order to be able to install the upper pigtail from a board with a section of 150 * 50. This also applies to the width of the opening. It should be 12 cm larger than the door leaf. For the manufacture of side carriages, a bar is used, the size of which is 150 * 100 mm.

To prevent the formation of cold bridges, it is worth taking care of high-quality thermal insulation. To do this, to the ridges (before installation), the carriage is attached with tow. All cracks and gaps that are formed can be filled with mounting foam.

Sometimes it happens that after the walls are erected, openings for all windows and doors are immediately cut out, while there are no fixing elements left. If the casing is not done in time, then such an opening will be deformed after shrinkage of the house. This situation can be eliminated: for this it is worth using a bar 50 * 100 or 100 * 150 mm with a length of at least 2 meters. It must be fixed on the side where the deformation occurred. For fixing, you need to use self-tapping screws 6x150 mm. Two self-tapping screws should be fixed to one log. In the beam it is very important to pre-make all the holes for the screws.

To tighten and eliminate the deformation of the wall, the fastenings of the timber are made alternately up and down, while approaching the center. As a result of such work, the opening should be leveled. In order to eliminate holes from self-tapping screws, you can use veneer or special wood putty.

A wooden house or bath is constantly changing in size - it “sits down” a little, then rises again. Therefore, simply taking and rigidly fixing windows and doors into the openings will not work: either the frames will bend or the walls will “hang” - they will not be able to sit down when shrinkage. To prevent this from happening, a wooden casing box (casing or pigtail) is installed in the opening, which is held only by friction. It is already possible to attach a window or door frame to the elements of this box.

First, let's deal with casing profiles. Fixation due to the force of friction is provided by an elementary thorn-groove lock. In one case, a spike is made on the logs / timber of the opening, in the other, a groove is cut out.

If you have a wooden bath - a log house made of logs or timber, then the technology for installing windows and doors will be exactly the same as in the house. No difference. So everything described applies to the bath.

Monolithic casing boxes

The counterpart is often made from one piece wooden beam. They are also called monolithic or finishing. Depending on whether the groove is cut out or a spike, the counterpart is made P or T-shaped. Please note that when installing windows or doors, fasteners should not go into the beam / log of the wall. To ensure proper reliability, the frames are mounted in the "thickest" parts of the casing.

The casing is made from a bar in which a groove is selected or a spike is cut. Accordingly, casing / pigtail profiles are P or T shaped

The material for the casing is a monolithic or glued timber. The use of glued beams in baths is not welcome: when using non-moisture-resistant glue (and this usually happens), the glue is destroyed by constant changes in humidity, the beam crumbles. Therefore, it is better to use a monolithic beam of the required size. Just note that the timber must be dry - no more than 12% moisture. Wet will crack or lead. Order timber at the sawmill right size chamber drying, or within 4-6 months, dry it yourself in the shade in a draft.

This type of casing is called monolithic or capital. You can already attach a window or door frame to it. If the windows/doors are plastic, the "face" of the casing can be left flat. If you plan to install wooden products, a quarter is chosen for them.

Which of these two casings / pigtails is considered the best? Properly done, both normally perform their tasks. Everyone chooses what is easier for him to do.

How to make a spike on the opening

There are two options - first cut the spike in doorway, then make a casing under it. The second option is to mark the spike along the finished groove. In any case, markup is applied first.

The width and depth of the tenon should be 4-5 mm less than the dimensions of the groove. The casing is “planted” on a heater, and a place is required on it. The width is marked at the end of the logs / timber, the depth - on the side surface of the walls. When marking, it is important to maintain the verticality of the lines.

Next, take a circular or chain saw, and cuts are made according to the marked marks. At the same time, it is important to maintain the required depth of cut on the side surfaces and not cut off the spike completely. If you don’t own a chain saw very well, it’s better to use a circular saw - you won’t be able to cut very deep there.

An example of the formation of a spike, see the video.

We make a groove in the opening

Making the groove safer: even if the cuts are too deep, you can not remove the entire core, in last resort, make the spike on the pigtail bigger.

Everything is simpler here: mark the width of the groove at the end. In this case, it is 4-5 mm larger than the groove on the casing / pigtail. Make two cuts, and remove the middle between them. There are virtuosos who do it with a chainsaw, but mostly they work with an ax, then they earn extra money with a chisel.

Casing box manufacturing

The casing box consists of two sidewalls (side racks), the top - the upper board and the window sill or threshold (also called the bottom). I must say that the lower part is not always present: it is often not done in interior doors. In some cases (when installing PVC windows, for example), they do not make a window sill, but simply a lower mortgage board, to which a “regular” window sill is then attached.

Also note that the tip does not rest against the top edge of the window or doorway. Between them there is a gap of 5-7 cm - for the shrinkage of the log house. This gap is then filled with insulation and closed with platbands, finishing materials.

Most of the questions arise when forming the locks necessary for joining the parts of the casing. These elements are especially difficult if a quarter is to be sampled. It is difficult to explain in words, here are the drawings. Take a look at them and see what's what. But the final understanding will come in the process: when you put the bottom and attach the side racks. They are circled with a pencil, then gradually cut out. In this process, it is important not to cut off the excess - it will not work to grow and there will be ugly gaps.

Before installing the casing, the window / doorway is treated with an antiseptic. Then lay two layers of insulation. The design is "dressed" on it. The procedure for assembling the casing on the windows is as follows:

The lower part is installed.
Put two sidewalls, check the accuracy of the coincidence of the locks. Hit the sides well.
Set the top. Often he "does not climb" - the racks are closer than necessary. Do not immediately take up the saw. Take the spacers of the length that the opening should be, and use them to bring the window to the required dimensions. First, put it obliquely, then, aligning it, leveling it. The sidewalls crush the insulation and take the necessary position. After that, the top is in place.

Rough casing or in a mortgage bar

One of the varieties of pigtails, when a groove is cut in the opening, is into a mortgage bar. It differs from a monolith in that it consists of two parts - the actual embedded bar, which is inserted into the spike, and a separate casing board. The casing board is attached to the embedded beam, and it is already possible to attach to it door frame(It can also be attached directly to the mortgage).

Please note that the mortgage bar and the spike under it do a little more than in the monolith. This is necessary to make the fastening more reliable. When fastening windows / doors, fasteners must be chosen so that they do not go into the wall.

Of course, this option is much easier to implement. But they don’t like him very much: his reliability is still much lower than that of a monolith. But it can also be used - for light doors and for any windows. Another possible use is as a temporary option only for the time of shrinkage after the openings have been cut down and the log house has been left to dry. If the openings are not fixed, the walls can twist. In this case, a mortgage beam is an excellent solution.

They cut out / cut out a groove into which the timber is driven. It is no longer held on by anything - no nails, screws

Photo report on the production of a finishing pigtail

The work was carried out in a log house that had settled for a year. We used a purchased chamber-drying beam and the remnants of profiled construction, which dried for a year along with the house. The casing is monolithic U-shaped. The width of the spike turned out to be approximately 45 mm. This distance remains if you make a cut circular saw on both sides of the wall. In order not to modify later with a chain saw, it was decided to make the spike wider. Its height is 35 mm. The spike under the bottom / window sill is 1 cm high. Its task is to prevent the occurrence of a draft.

We start with the preparation of openings. First, cuts were made in the side planes of the walls with a circular saw. There were no problems with vertical cuts, and when cutting horizontally, the saw kept trying to go up and down. Be careful in this part.

Then we take a chain saw and finalize the spike. This is the most responsible and delicate work. We make the first pass from top to bottom. Its depth is only 1-2 cm. All subsequent ones - from the bottom up, gradually increasing the depth. In order not to mess up, a step-by-step algorithm was used: first, they cut it with a circular saw, departing from the cut 0.5-1 centimeter, they cut it with a chain saw, and brought it to the desired depth with a grinder and a planer. Long, but reliable.

The opening is ready. Let's start making a casing. First we make the bottom0-sill. In it we make a groove with a depth of 10 * 45 mm. Also, do not forget about the protrusions: the window sill should "go" onto the wall.

This is the sides

Now let's make the sides. They are from a bar 200 * 100 mm. It was adjusted to the dimensions and polished. The groove was molded using a milling cutter. It could have been done with a circular saw - it would have been faster, but less accurate.

After a circular saw, a quarter was made - its size is 70-30 mm.

Next, you need to cut out the locks. On the sides, those that go into the bottom are simple. All that is needed is to cut off 20-40 mm from three sides. If, like mine, there is a quarter, then on this side we cut out less to the depth of a quarter, i.e. cut out 10 mm (40 mm - 30 mm = 10 mm). Here is the finished spike.

Next, put it on the bottom, trace the outline with a pencil, remove all unnecessary. The castle is ready. Having installed everything in place, we see pretty decent cracks. Now the task is to bring them to a minimum by gradual adjustment. The main thing here is not to cut off the excess, since it is impossible to build up. Therefore, we gradually grind and try on, grind and try on.

When the lower locks are ready and fitted, you can cut the sidewalls. They should not reach the top of the opening by 6 cm. With this calculation, we cut it.

We make the top itself in the same way as the side racks, then we cut out a quarter in it. You'll have to fiddle around with the lock. There are two conditions:

The distance above should be the same as below. We adjust all the dimensions of the spike based on this postulate.
Then we also circle it, but the shape here is much more complicated. It is desirable to cut it so that there are no through connections, so that there is no way for air to freely enter from the street.

Therefore, we make stepped cutouts.

When the form is ready, the adjustment with the help of grinding begins again. We work slowly, slowly. When the proper result is achieved, we disassemble the box, grind, round the edges. In general, we bring beauty.

After grinding, we cover all parts (including openings) with antiseptics. After drying, the elements of the casing can be painted in the desired color. In any case, you can go through the paint once.

While everything dries, we lay a jute tape in the opening. There is no tape for the entire width of the casing; it was laid in two parts with an overlap in the area of the spike. We apply a layer of sealant over the insulation.

First, they laid the bottom (it was not possible to put it on jute - it was torn off during installation, but the voids were filled later). Sidewall sat down, but with difficulty. The top part didn't fit at all.

We take a spacer, first we put it obliquely, then with a hammer - more horizontally. The sidewalls move a little. As a result of these manipulations, the upper part also sat in place.

After installing the spacer "village" and the upper part of the casing

To prevent it from moving, we install wedges. They are removed after the installation of window or door blocks. Here's what happened as a result.

Few people dream of living in beautiful house from a bar, in which it is so cozy, warm and smells of resins. But all romance disappears as soon as it comes to repairs in such a dwelling. If sticking wallpaper is half the trouble, then replace the door in wooden partition– this is a real problem. But because of this, it’s not worth chopping off your shoulder and giving up your dream. Just when carrying out construction works consider the specifics of wooden buildings.

Features of wooden houses

Unlike their brick counterparts, log or timber buildings require more attention and care. This is due natural properties natural materials. Along with environmental friendliness, durability, wooden houses have a number of features:

A wooden house needs special care

Without neglecting these simple rules, you will be able to avoid such troubles as deformation, breakage door structure. Otherwise, the elimination of defects that have appeared will significantly affect the family budget.

Instructions for installing an interior door

To install correctly interior door in a wooden house, you need to clearly follow the scheme.

Preparatory process

Before undertaking work, arm yourself with a set of construction equipment:

nail puller;
level;
hacksaw or chainsaw;
chisel;
fastening;
mounting foam.

When everything is at hand, start the process by installing the pigtails.

Assembly and installation of the casing

A casing box or pigtail is a structure consisting of uprights, horizontal bars. Speaking plain language, this is a simple frame that is assembled from dry thick boards.

The casing box prevents the house from skewing

Without a pigtail, it is impossible to mount the door in wooden frame . The design performs a number of functions:

prevents skew opening;
minimizes the load of the walls on the opening;
prevents the destruction of the canvases;
does not allow the appearance of gaps between the logs.

The casing is made and installed by several methods. Consider the 2 most popular:

“in a mortgage bar”;
"into the deck".

Casing "into a mortgage bar" is performed as follows:

Installation of the casing structure “into the deck” also takes place in several stages:

Door installation

Mounting the door structure is carried out in stages.

Box assembly

The box is included in the kit. It may be at the discretion of the manufacturers in ready-made or consist of individual elements: hinged timber, vestibule, lintels, threshold. As a rule, the second option is more common.

When assembling the box, pay attention to the cuts and the connection of the bars

The most difficult thing when assembling the box is considered to be the correct cut and connection of the vertical and horizontal bars. The beam is attached in different ways. However, a spiked connection is recognized as the most reliable way. Fastening with spikes involves the manufacture of ridges and grooves on the bars.

Box assembly

When assembling the box with your own hands, decide at what angle the docking will be performed: at a straight line or 45 degrees. If you are a beginner, then the first option is the easiest.

After connecting all the structural elements, it is required to check the correctness of the work. To do this, put the box on the floor, and the sash on top of it. If it enters freely, while leaving a small gap, the connection is well made.

Box installation

Insert the box into the opening and fix it with wedges. After that, adjust the structure vertically and horizontally.

After installing the box, the structure is fixed with wedges.

The box is attached with screws to the pigtail. This must be done very carefully so that the screws do not go through the casing bars through. Otherwise, the skew of the door during shrinkage of the house cannot be avoided..

Self-tapping screws are used to fix the box to the pigtail

During the installation of the structure, gaps may appear. Seal them with mounting foam.

Hinge installation and door hanging

Loops are right and left. Choose them depending on where the door opens. They are installed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the end of the canvas. Canopies are disassembled into two components: a large part for the box and a small part for the door.

After that, the loop is attached to the end of the sash and circled along the contour, first with a pencil, and then with an office knife. The canvas must be constantly attached to the box in order to check the coincidence of the marks.

The edges of the sash and hinges are connected so that distortions do not appear. The hinges must face the direction the door opens.

Using a chisel and hammer, make a 5 mm recess and install the hinges. Hang on them door leaf. If it opens and closes without problems, then you did a great job.

Installing the handle and lock

The final stage of work is the installation of the locking mechanism and handle. The construction market is represented by a large assortment of fittings. Products differ in color, shape, design, principle of operation, method of installation. When choosing, be guided by the design of the door and the style of your interior.

Features of installing a metal door

Put front door made of high-strength metal - this means creating reliable protection against sudden penetration into your home.

For reliable protection a wooden structure install a metal front door

Installation metal structure in a wooden house consists of several steps:

Opening arrangement. If the opening was not provided during the construction of the house, then it is cut out in a blank wall with a chainsaw. When non-solid crowns are installed in its place, then mark and cut off the extra protrusions of the tree.
Pigtail installation. On the sides of the opening, ridges are made, on which carriages with a groove are subsequently mounted. Then the cross bars are attached.
Installing the box and sash. If necessary metal box needs to be insulated. After it is inserted into the pigtail, align the structure and secure with self-tapping screws. The number of fastening points should be such that the load is evenly distributed over the entire wall. After installing the box, the canvas is hung on four loops.
Joint sealing. It is done with mounting foam.
Decoration of the opening. To make the opening look more attractive, it is decorated with overhead strips. They are not attached to the wall, but to a metal frame.

Insert metal door difficult alone due to its large weight. Therefore, it is recommended to call someone to help you. Strict adherence to the instructions and the presence of desire will allow you to cope with this not very easy job, even in the absence of experience.

This type of work, such as a door frame and window openings in a wooden house is a prerequisite for newly erected buildings. Without additional reinforcement, over time, the house can become unsafe, so a lot depends on the quality of the work in this case.

Pivoting of openings is a necessary measure in wooden houses

Why do you need a pigtail

What is a slit of openings? At its core, this is the construction of additional supports that will prevent the movement of walls during gradual shrinkage throughout the entire life of the building. For wooden houses such an operation is of particular importance, since the specificity of the material increases the risk of distortion of the planes. Over the years, even the highest quality wood begins to dry out, and the pressure on the foundation of the house leads to the fact that its walls and floors can change their original position.

What are the functions of such a structure?

protects the building from the effects of shrinkage;
provides a special technological gap at the top of the opening;
improves the connection of logs;
necessary for the installation of doors and windows.

It is necessary to make a pigtail within the first ten years after the construction of the building, otherwise the expediency of the operation will be lost. It is advisable to do this at the construction stage.

The window frame of the doorway will protect the home from the consequences during shrinkage

Constituent elements

In order to perform a high-quality pigtail in a wooden house, it is necessary to deal with the main constituent structural elements. First of all, you need to highlight such details as:

sidewall. These are side racks that connect to the wall of the house, they act as guides along which the walls will move. At the same time, the shape and strength of the opening will remain unchanged.
Vershnik. This is the top cross bar, it is connected to the sidewalls and serves as a horizontal spacer, at the same time it holds the contours of the opening and forms a shrinkage gap with the sealant.
Threshold. This is the bottom of the doorway window structures its role is played by the window sill. It bears the main load.

In order for the framing of the opening to withstand the load that the walls will put on it wooden house, it is best to use glued laminated timber. For spike connection a bar with a section of 50x50 mm is used. To finish the slopes, a straight board is additionally taken.

Components of the construction of a pigtail for a wooden house

Basic ways

Okosyachka door and window openings in a wooden house can be carried out in one of the following ways:

Mortgage bar. A recess is cut in the side parts of the opening, into which a bar of the same size is driven close, then a draft box is stuffed over it, and the top is fixed separately.
spike monolith. In this case, the embedded bar and part of the box are a single piece, it is cut out of the bar and driven into the prepared groove in the wall, a transverse bar is applied on top.
Into the deck. okosyachka doorways performed by the opposite principle, now the spike is created on the side of the wall, a box is put on it, consisting of planks with a recess and a straight tip.
The spike with ready slope . The principle of creating a pigtail of a wooden house is the same as in the case of the “monolith spike” method, the only difference is that in this case, a ready-made box is installed. Details have additional protrusions that tightly envelop the opening.

The most common ways of pigtailing openings

Today, a very popular method is the use of a mortgage bar; as its modification, the “monolith spike” technique is also used. It is necessary to select the technology depending on the characteristics of the building and the skills of the builders.

Sequence of work

Since it is best to make a doorway in a wooden house at the very beginning of construction, all operations can be divided into several stages:

Formation of the opening. First you need to determine the location of the doorway. This is best done at the design stage of the building, as it is necessary to take into account the basic principles of architecture and distribute the load on the walls. In a wooden house exact dimensions can be corrected after laying the logs, marking is done for this, and then a rectangle of the required size is cut using a chainsaw.
Cutting fasteners. Next, you need to prepare the attachment points. This stage directly depends on the technology used. If you plan to drive the pigtail into the prepared groove, you need to cut recesses 50 mm deep and wide in the side sections. If, on the contrary, the planks will be put on the ledge, you need to cut out the corresponding element.
Sidewall installation. A 50x50 mm bar is driven into the cut out recess. From above, it should be somewhat shorter so that the walls have room for movement, the joints are laid with a sealant and a rough cut is nailed to the opening. Make sure that nails and self-tapping screws do not go into the bar.
Vertex installation. The upper transverse bar is laid on the prepared ledges. A heater is laid between the wall and the pigtail, for example, mineral wool. Foam cannot be used. Additionally, the pigtail is fastened to the walls with anchor bolts cut at an angle. The top and sidewalls are connected in the same way.

Then you can install directly the door itself. Before installing the pigtails, be sure to remove sawdust and treat all wood with an antiseptic. If you do everything right, your house will be quite safe to live in even after a few decades.

Okosyachka or casing - what is it, why is it made, what types of connections are used in this case, how to arrange a window and doorway in a log house wall? These questions are often asked by many owners. land plots who decided to build a bathhouse or another wooden building with your own hands.

Okosyachka or casing(casing box), which is one and the same, is a team wooden frame inserted into the opening wooden wall for its rigid fastening, and the subsequent installation of doors or windows in a reinforced opening.

Of course, this is a simplified interpretation of the properties of the pigtail. In fact, it carries a number of such basic design functions that do not allow windows and doors to deform during operation. These include the following properties:

Creation of a strong connection in the opening of the cut crowns of the log house.
Providing a gap between the window (or door) frame and the upper adjacent log, which is necessary to compensate for the draft of the log house.
Creating a sliding connection of the casing with the ends of the cut logs. This property prevents deformation installed windows and doors during the draft of the log house, as well as when their overall dimensions change under the influence of atmospheric phenomena, for example, when high humidity- increase, and at elevated temperature - decrease, and vice versa.
Reliable fastening in the casing of windows and doors.

Options for casing connections in openings in wooden walls

Connection "to the deck"

With this type of connection, everything is done in a mirror image - a spike is processed in the logs, and a groove in the jambs. The assembly of the pigtail is carried out in the same order.

"Finish" casing connection

According to the method of processing materials, the pigtail can be of two types: "rough" or "finishing".

A draft version of the casing is used when the walls will be sheathed with decorative building materials(lining, siding, etc.). In this case, all roughly processed logs and the pigtail itself must be covered with finishing materials.

The second option assumes that it will be installed in the opening without further processing and will perform, in addition to the main function, also decorative. For example, if the walls of a log house are made of round logs or profiled timber and you want the interior of the bath to be as close as possible to its original appearance.

The finished casing box is installed using 50x50 mm embedded bars, which are inserted into the corresponding vertical grooves under these bars. Jambs made in the form of a quarter (letter "G") are installed in the opening, fixed to the embedded bars and bursting with the lower and upper boards. A quarter is located on the outside of the log house, and will serve as a support for window or door frames.

Stitched lnovatin is used to seal the joints. All irregularities and damaged sections of the casing are covered with platbands from the outer and inside log house. At the top of the casing, a gap of 6-10 cm to the upper crown must be left to compensate for the settlement of the log house, and it is filled with heat-insulating material, for example, basalt wool, jute, moss, etc.

How to make a window and door frame

Openings for doors and windows are cut either after the log house is fully assembled, or during its construction. If the building is planned to be used after the final settlement, then the best option there will be a cutting of the opening after all construction work. Otherwise, it is possible to select the opening directly in the process of erecting wooden walls.

With any method, to prevent the logs from being squeezed over the openings, it is necessary to drive in or mark out places for dowels (2 pieces per opening). Otherwise, under the weight of the upper part of the log house, deformation of logs, casing, window and door frames may occur. It is important to provide correct location dowels so that when cutting the opening, they are not removed along with the log trimmings.

In order to make it easier to navigate, you can make marks for the dimensions of the openings, or when building walls, make one crown with a hole that repeats the width of the opening. If an opening in the wall is made during the construction process, then it dimensions reduced with a guaranteed tolerance for subsequent finishing.

One of the options for installing a casing after the construction of a log house can be the following technological process:

It is also useful to watch this video, which will complement this article:

So, all the work on the design of openings in the wall is completed. Now you can start installing doors and windows. True, this is usually done after they have been erected.