The better to insulate the walls of wood. What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside? Features of wall insulation from timber outside

Previously, in Rus', houses were built mainly from logs, and nails were not used in construction. Qualitatively made wooden houses were not only warm, but also durable, they served their owners for several decades. But in the modern world you will not surprise anyone with a private house made of wood, made of solid logs. But what to do if heat is very poorly preserved in such a house? Of course, such a house needs to be insulated, but what to choose as the main insulation?

Today, there is a huge variety of different heaters on the market, and it is impossible to say unequivocally which one is bad and which is good. Each of them has its pros and cons, and you need to choose based on some decisive factors.

Heat is lost due to too much air exchange. All heaters are located at the bottom, because warm air always rises, where it meets the cold ceiling and, having given up part of the heat, falls lower, gradually continuing to lose heat due to cold walls. As a result, it may turn out that the house practically does not warm up from below, all the warm air is located only under the ceiling, and it never reaches the bottom.

Features of wall insulation from timber outside

Increased heat loss in a wooden house occurs due to design features. To a greater extent, this is influenced by the thickness of the walls.

Before proceeding to the choice of a specific insulation, first of all, you need to decide what kind of house design we are dealing with. The usual size of the beam is 20 by 20 centimeters, it may be less, but it is not allowed to use a beam less than 15 by 15 centimeters. In general, houses from glued beams began to be built in countries that are located closer to the equator, i.e. in warm countries. Naturally, in Russia this construction technology should be a little different, the house should be designed for a harsh climate. First of all, the peculiarity lies in the presence of a heater, because only in this case it will be possible to stay in the house with comfort.

wall insulation technology wooden house outside: 1. Wall of the house; 2. Vapor barrier; 3. Insulation; 4. Hydro-windproofing; 5. Facade cladding.

A house made of timber is relatively cheap for the owner, in addition, if you correctly make external insulation, you can save a lot on heating. The work on warming the walls of a house from a bar outside consists of four main stages:

• choice of insulation;
• calculation of thermal efficiency, price, other qualities of insulation;
• installation of a heater;
• decorative decoration of the house.

The effectiveness of warming a house from a bar with not properly selected and installed facade decreases significantly. This is due to the fact that moisture will be concentrated inside the house and in its walls. As a result of this, condensation will form, which adversely affects almost all material, including the insulation. The efficiency of wet insulation is very low, moreover, in this state it will quickly become unusable. Based on the foregoing, you need to remember once and for all that the insulation of the walls of a house made of timber from the outside requires the mandatory presence of a ventilated facade, which will not allow moisture to concentrate in the walls.

To insulate the ceiling, you can use various materials: sawdust, expanded clay, mineral wool, etc.

Do not forget about the insulation of the floor and ceiling. Up to half of all the heat in the house can go through the ceiling alone, so it needs to be insulated first. It is useless to look for specific cracks through which heat escapes, it is much easier and more efficient to insulate the entire ceiling as a whole. In this case, you can use any insulation, up to ordinary sawdust, the most important thing is to make a layer of insulation at least 15 centimeters. Whatever insulation you choose, it must be evenly distributed over the entire attic area, avoiding “bald spots”.

As for the floor, it can be made simpler here, it will be enough to lay a carpet on the floor, then it will be clearly visible whether the cold actually comes from the floor, or the problem is not in it. But ideally, floor insulation should also be approached thoroughly, laying insulation and waterproofing.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house?

Mineral wool is a heat-insulating fibrous material made from rock melts, metallurgical slags and their mixtures.

Today, there is a huge selection of various insulation on sale, thanks to which you can effectively insulate the walls of a house from a bar from the outside. Let's start with the most popular and inexpensive options:

1. Jute. Practical material, used in many cases. It is produced from the "jute" plant, which is grown in a special way;
2. Linen fiber;
3. Tape glue;
4. New generation materials: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polystyrene.

You should not choose the warmest and cheapest, you need to navigate based on the characteristics of the house itself: the condition of the walls, the climate, the purpose of insulation, etc.

Styrofoam is a gas-filled heat-insulating material with low vapor and air permeability.

Today, people are increasingly giving their preference to one of these two materials:

• mineral wool;

But, it is worth noting that most professionals do not recommend using polystyrene foam for insulation from the outside, because. in this case, it will not be effective enough to perform its function of preserving heat in the house. The fact is that the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the foam is on average 0.082 W / m², and the coefficient for mineral wool is 0.036 W / m². It turns out that polystyrene conducts heat through itself much better, and therefore conducts cold more. It is much better to use mineral wool as a heater for the outside of a house made of timber.

Calculation of heat-insulating materials for the insulation of walls from a bar from the outside

Mineral wool on the market is presented both in rolls and in sheet form.

Above, we have already decided on the choice of insulation, we will insulate with mineral wool. But what should be the thickness of the insulation, how to calculate it correctly? In what format should I buy mineral wool, because it is sold in the form of mats, slabs and in rolls? Consider the features of each of the formats. Mineral wool in slabs is very convenient to use, it is a little more expensive, but it retains its shape well even in a vertical state. Rolled is softer, more suitable for warming the house from the inside, because it is easy for them to fill all the bumps and corners. The mats are only suitable for the floor, because they are quite large and heavy.

If the air temperature outside in winter does not fall below -20 degrees, and the thickness wooden walls- 20 centimeters, then you need only one layer of insulation with standard thickness 5 centimeters.

In the case when the thermometer drops below 20 degrees in winter, and the thickness of the house is the same 20 centimeters, then you will need to make 2 or even 3 layers of insulation with mineral wool.

The waterproofing film serves to protect the interior from moisture.

For insulation, you will also need a beam with a cross section, which will depend on the layers of insulation. So, for one layer of mineral wool, you will need a bar with a section of 5x5 centimeters, and for two layers you will need a bar with a section of 5x10 centimeters.

To work, you will need the following set of tools and materials:

• waterproofing film;
• antifungal composition;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchor;
• level;
• construction stapler;
• plumb.

The procedure for installing insulation

Installation of insulation on a house from a bar from the outside is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Surface preparation;
2. Installation of the first layer of waterproofing;
3. A wooden crate is installed from a bar with the required section;
4. Mineral wool is laid;
5. Closed with another waterproofing layer.

The result is this cake: wall, waterproofing, mineral wool, again waterproofing, decorative finishes.

Installation of the crate wooden beams carried out vertically with an interval of 1.5-2 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.

Most importantly, when processing a wall for insulation, treat it with an antiseptic antifungal compound. It will not be superfluous to treat the walls also with a pesticide. After all treatments, it is necessary to wait for the walls to dry completely, therefore, it is more expedient to do this procedure in warm and dry weather.

After the walls are completely dry, you can proceed with the installation of the first layer of waterproofing. This is very milestone, and it should be remembered that the film must be laid on one side only. If you look closely at the film, you can see that on the one hand it is smooth, and on the other a little rough. Due to this structure, the film is able to pass moisture on the rough side, but not on the smooth side.

The film must be attached to the wall construction stapler, making an overlap of 10-15 centimeters. Joints must be sealed with tape. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the crate. The first beam is attached to the corner of the building end-to-end with self-tapping screws. Further, the beams are mounted at the same distance from each other, it is important to strictly observe the vertical.

How to properly fix the mineral wool?

Mineral wool slabs are quite easily cut with a knife. The plates are fixed to the wall with anchors, both plastic and metal can be used. To install the anchor, first of all, you need to drill a through hole in the wall through the mineral wool. Next, a core with a cap is clogged, reliably pressing down the insulation.

As soon as all the insulation is installed, it is necessary to cover it with a second layer of waterproofing on top. The rough side should be in contact with the mineral wool, while the protective smooth side should be on the outside. After that, a beam of 40x50 mm is mounted for further finishing of the facade.

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When building a private house, both the developer and the future owner of the cottage should pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation and ensuring comfortable living conditions even in the most severe cold. This fully applies to buildings made of log cabins or timber. But at the same time, such cottages have their own specifics, due to the material from which they are built. It cannot be ignored - otherwise it will negatively affect the durability of the walls and the finishing of buildings made of logs and timber. Therefore, it is not so easy to decide how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what, and you need to approach this matter in detail.

When carrying out measures for the installation of thermal insulation in a house made of timber or a log house, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of wood as a material. There are many of them, but the main ones are two - high vapor permeability and exposure to fungus and other microorganisms.

The first means that wood well absorbs and passes moisture through itself, both from the inside and outside. Accordingly, the insulation for a house built from a bar or a log house must have comparable vapor permeability indicators - otherwise the walls will gradually dampen, rot and become unusable. In addition, there is a need for a ventilation gap between the exterior finish and the insulation - without it, the latter will take in too much water and lose its thermal insulation qualities.

And the second feature of wood, associated with the susceptibility of the material to fungus and microorganisms, requires the mandatory treatment of all walls and parts of the thermal insulation system with antiseptic compounds, and in several layers.

Insulation of a private house can be divided into two types.

1. Internal when a layer of heat-insulating material is located on the side of the living quarters and is covered with plasterboard, clapboard or any other finishing material.
2. outdoor when thermal insulation is located on the walls from the side of the street. From above, it is closed with a windproof film and external trim, which can be boards, siding, corrugated board, fake diamond and so on.

Internal insulation in wooden houses is usually used when it is necessary to maintain appearance buildings under the tree. This usually refers to log cabins.

But at the same time, such a thermal insulation system has several disadvantages:

• reduction of the usable area of ​​residential premises;
• non-optimal position of the dew point, leading to the appearance of dampness and condensation;
• gradual destruction of the walls from the outside, due to temperature changes.

Therefore, external insulation looks like a more preferable option. Such a solution has the following advantages.

1. Saving living space- the insulation layer and the frame under it are located outside, which means you save a few square meters inside the house.
2. Dew point shift outside the walls of the house- with good external thermal insulation over the entire thickness of the wall from a bar or log house, the temperature will be above zero. Consequently, condensation will not fall on the wall from the inside, there will be less dampness, and the service life of the structures will be longer.
3. By shifting the dew point and using ventilated façade technology Significantly reduces the risk of mold and rot.
4. Walls made of timber or logs can serve as interior decoration, the original "texture" of a country cottage is preserved.

Due to these advantages, the article will focus on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and what materials are suitable for this.

General device for external insulation of a wooden house

From the point of view of providing high-quality thermal insulation and preventing the appearance of dampness / condensation on the wall and in the insulation, the most preferred way to protect the house from the cold is to equip a ventilated facade. Regardless of the material used, the design is a "layer cake", consisting of the following elements:

• load-bearing wall of the house, made of timber or logs;
• frame for insulation, created from a bar or metal profile;
• a layer of heat-insulating material and fasteners under it;
• windproof membrane film or windproof plate;
• crate for exterior trim;
• exterior decoration of the house.

At the same time, a ventilation gap is formed between the insulation and the exterior of the wooden house due to the crate, which ensures effective removal of flags and reduces the risk of condensation and dampness.

Important! Separately, it is worth paying attention to such an issue as the presence of a vapor barrier film between wooden wall and a heater. This film has long been the subject of controversy. Some craftsmen argue that a vapor barrier between the wall and the insulation is needed, otherwise the heat-insulating material will quickly become damp due to moisture coming from the house. Others hold the opposite opinion and say that the vapor barrier will disrupt the removal of moisture from the walls of the house, condensation will appear between it and the insulation, and then mold. Given both of these opinions, it can be said that it is possible to install a film to protect the heat-insulating material from dampness, but only if there is good ventilation in the house and a gap between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Prices for dowels for insulation

Dowel umbrella

You can get acquainted with the materials used to insulate a wooden house from the outside from the table below and in the following sections of the article.

Table. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - the main materials.

Material name	Short description
	Rolls and slabs of fine fibers of basalt and other minerals.
	A soft fibreboard made from recycled wood. Does not contain glue or chemical binders. It has high density and vapor permeability.
	Rounded porous cells of polystyrene foam fastened into plates.
	A kind of expanded polystyrene, made using a slightly different technology. Differs in greater density and better thermal insulation qualities.
	Paper and fabric processed into pulp with anti-caking, rotting and anti-rodent additives.

What material to choose for external insulation of a wooden house

Before proceeding with the insulation of a wooden house, you need to decide how to do it, that is, with what material. You can see the options available to most in the table from the previous section. These are mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Let's consider them in a little more detail.

Mineral wool is a collection of many fibers obtained from the melts of various rocks. As in cellulose wadding, between the fibers is a large number of air, due to which the material acquires its heat-insulating qualities.

The following advantages speak in favor of mineral wool as a heater for a wooden house:

• ease of installation;
• availability;
• resistance to combustion - mineral wool melts only at a very high temperature;
• vapor permeability at the level of wood;
• excellent heat and sound insulation qualities.

But it should be borne in mind that mineral wool absorbs moisture well and at the same time greatly loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the outside of the insulation must be protected by a membrane windproof film.

A good option for warming a wooden house is Isoplat soft fiberboard. It is made "wet" from ground fiber of coniferous trees without the addition of glue and other chemical binders. Due to this, the plate works efficiently in a humid and cold climate and does not exfoliate from temperature changes. From above the plate is treated with paraffin to protect against atmospheric moisture. The Isoplat plate has a high rate of vapor permeability, which means it prevents dampening of the walls, the formation of fungus and mold. In terms of thermal insulation properties, 25 cm of material is comparable to 88 mm of solid wood. Isoplat also has a high sound insulation rate, which means that the house will become much quieter and more comfortable.

Insulation of a wooden house with Izoplat slabs

Other insulation options for a wooden house are polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both are polymers, consisting of cells glued together with many pores and voids. The latter, filled with air, provide the material with high thermal insulation qualities. Extruded polystyrene foam is made using a slightly different technology than regular foam, due to which the material is denser, and its cells are smaller. The material itself becomes stronger, but at the same time retains its thermal insulation qualities.

Styrofoam insulation is not the best option for a wooden house, but many resort to this solution because of the cheapness of heat-insulating material

However, both polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam have a serious drawback, due to which their use as a heater for a wooden house is doubtful - this is low vapor permeability. Moisture and water vapor through these materials penetrate very poorly. Therefore, if a wooden house is insulated with polystyrene foam, a humid environment will necessarily arise between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, favorable for the development of fungi, other microorganisms and, as a result, for rotting and damage to wood.

According to environmentalists, up to 40% of heat and electricity generated in the northern hemisphere is spent on heating residential, industrial and other facilities. For this reason, high-quality insulation of buildings brings tangible benefits in terms of financial savings and living comfort. One of the most popular heat insulators is (polystyrene foam, PPS).

Another option for insulation is ecowool. This material is obtained from paper and textile waste, converted into cellulose. But at the same time, it is supplemented with additives that protect the material from caking, rotting, burning and make it unattractive to insects and rodents. It has excellent thermal insulating qualities. But at the same time, the method of laying it differs from mineral wool and polystyrene - ecowool in liquid form is sprayed onto the surface of wooden walls between the elements of the crate using special equipment. Then the material seizes, dries and becomes a very durable layer of thermal insulation. However, you need to understand that without the help of a specialist, it will be impossible to perform ecowool insulation.

Now that you know more about the materials used to insulate cottages made of timber or logs, let's start describing how the insulation process should be performed.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video - Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside

Insulation of a wooden house with Izoplatom

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat. The plate is a dense, but at the same time elastic material. It is enough just to press it against the wall and nail it with nails with a wide flat hat. Isoplat firmly adheres to the base and does not allow the appearance of "cold bridges". A ventilated facade is installed on top of the slab. In addition, Isoplat slabs of 25 mm or more can be covered with plaster. Warming in this way can be done independently without the involvement of specialists. This is the fastest, easiest and most reliable option for warming a wooden house.

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat plates

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool

Consider how to perform one of the most popular ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside - using mineral wool slabs.

Calculation of the amount of insulation

Work begins with the calculation of the required amount of insulation. To do this, calculate how many square meters of the house are in the surfaces to be sheathed with mineral wool. This problem is solved by the following algorithm.

Step 1. Calculate the height of the walls from the basement to the beginning of the gable. If one part of the house is one-story, and the second is two-story, perform calculations for them separately.

Step 2 Determine the perimeter of the walls by counting their length.

Step 3 Multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height and subtract the area of ​​the openings from the resulting figure - this will give you an approximate surface area to be insulated. But the calculations don't end there.

Step 4 Using the formulas for determining the area of ​​a triangle, calculate how many square meters are in your gables (if you are going to insulate them too), and sum the resulting figure with the result of the calculations from the previous step.

Determining the area of ​​a wall, a simple pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle and a pediment of complex shape (which is the sum of a trapezoid and a triangle)

Step 5 Determine what brand and size of mineral wool you choose. Divide the total area of ​​insulation by the area of ​​each individual insulation board. Then increase the result by 10-15% for the reserve. The figure you received is the number of mineral wool slabs that will be needed for one layer of external insulation of a wooden house. At the same time, keep in mind that several insulation panels are sold in one package and, as a rule, it is written on them how many square meters this pack is designed for.

Mineral wool ROCKWOOL Light Butts. In one such pack there are six plates with a thickness of 50 mm and with dimensions of 600x800 mm. Their total area is 2.88 sq. m.

Step 6 Determine how thick the insulation should be. As a rule, in the southern regions it is 50 mm, in the middle lane - 100 mm, in Siberia and northern latitudes - 150 mm. If in your case it will be impossible to perform insulation in one layer, double the number of mineral wool slabs from the previous operation.

List of tools

First of all, you will need something with which you can cut and saw materials for the sheathing. If the frame for the insulation will be made of wood, this task will perfectly cope electric jigsaw with matching blade. But in the case when the crate is made of a metal profile, it is better to give preference metal scissors.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Electric jigsaw

Important! The use of a grinder for cutting a profile onto a frame for insulation is acceptable, but undesirable - in the process of such sawing, the external anti-corrosion coating is damaged, which significantly reduces the service life of the future structure.

Next, you will need a tool for screwing screws into wood or metal. Considering that the work on insulation is carried out with a house made of timber or logs, only screwdriver and bit set. Choose a tool with a battery - the wire will not hang under your feet and interfere.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Advice! Experienced craftsmen use a screwdriver with two batteries. While one is working, the other is charging. Then they change places, and a person gets the opportunity to install the crate for insulation without stopping and wasting time.

You will need hammer or rubber mallet.

One of the indispensable tools for construction work is a knife for cutting mineral wool. You will need it to open packages of mineral wool and to cut slabs of this material. Alternatively, you can use a construction knife with a retractable blade.

Fastening the windproof membrane film on the insulation crate requires construction stapler and a set of staples.

The crate under the insulation should be as straight as possible horizontally and vertically. It is almost impossible to achieve this by eye, so be sure to use building level and plumb.

The wall of the house itself is made of timber or a log house, and that's it. wooden elements crates require the mandatory application of several layers of an antiseptic that protects materials from decay. For this you will need container and roller. But if you want to do everything quickly - use spray gun for paint.

Both before and during the work on the insulation of a wooden house, the master may need to apply various marks, measure distances and create records. These tasks are successfully completed with the help of a pencil, several sheets of paper (or one notebook), a tape measure and a carpenter's square.

Laying mineral wool on a wooden frame

Let us first consider the most common option, when mineral wool is laid between the elements of the crate made of wooden beams.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - remove all protruding elements from their surface, if any. These can be shutters, ebbs, decorative details, etc. Then treat the wall with an antiseptic and flame retardant, preferably 2-3 times. Apply a new layer only after the previous one has completely dried.

Important! When working with a log house, pay special attention to processing the corners and end parts of the logs - they are the most susceptible to the effects of fungi and other microorganisms.

Step 2 Make a crate. For her, take the highest quality timber, in this case, products with a section of 30x30 mm are used. Wood should not show signs of fungus or rot. First, install the upper and lower bars, secure them with galvanized self-tapping screws (it is undesirable to use others due to corrosion). Then install the horizontal elements of the crate, between which the mineral wool of the first layer will be laid. The interval between the beams should be approximately 5 mm less than the height of the insulation plate - this is necessary to more tightly fix the material and eliminate gaps.

Step 3 On top of the first "layer" of the crate, fix the second, where the elements are arranged perpendicularly. In this case, they are mounted vertically. Also, do not forget to fix the bars around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Step 4 Unpack and prepare the mineral wool boards. If necessary, cut them into pieces for installation around openings and in other places where full-sized insulation elements will not fit. Install the plates between the elements of the crate of the first layer, make sure that they hold tightly there. Fix them with dish-shaped dowels. Then, following the same principle, lay the plates of the second layer of insulation. It is desirable that they overlap the horizontal seams between the mineral wool sheets of the previous layer.

Prices for mineral wool

Step 5 Lay and secure a windproof membrane over the insulation. Joint its individual segments with each other with an overlap of about 10 cm (as a rule, a special marking is applied to the film for this). Attach the membrane to the crate with a construction stapler, and close the joints with a special adhesive tape. Special attention when working with a windproof film, give openings that also need to be covered.

Step 6 On top of the windproof film on the wooden elements of the insulation crate, fasten thick slats on which the exterior finish of the house will be held.

Step 7 Lay the exterior trim on the mounted rails. In this case, boards are used for this. Then install other protruding elements such as window and rain shutters, shutters, slopes, decorative details and more.

Laying mineral wool on brackets

Now consider another option for external insulation of the house. Here, mineral wool is not attached to the crate, but to metal brackets.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - treat them with an antiseptic and flame retardant. Then unpack the mounting brackets and calculate how many you need.

Step 2 Fasten the metal brackets to the wall using two long roofing screws with press washers. Since the house will subsequently be finished with siding, the fasteners are arranged in increments corresponding to the interval between the elements of the crate for vinyl panels.

Important! To ensure better sound and heat insulation, place small pieces of paronite under the part of the brackets that touches the wood.

Step 3 Unpack the mineral wool, check the quality of the insulation and prepare it for installation.

Step 4 Install mineral wool boards on the walls. To do this, put them on the brackets mounted in the previous stages of work. Holes for this can either be pushed through by the fasteners themselves, or cut with a knife.

Step 5 For better fixation, screw the dish-shaped dowels evenly over the area of ​​each individual plate.

Step 6 Repeat the previous two operations for all walls and gables of the house.

Step 7 Lay a windproof film over the insulation layer. Secure it with an overlap with dish-shaped dowels.

Step 8 Using a knife or scissors, cut slotted holes in the windproof film through which the ends of the brackets should pass.

Step 9 Prepare, cut and fix on the brackets with self-tapping screws the vertical and horizontal elements of the crate from the metal profile. In this case, it is very important to achieve the evenness of each individual rack or beam, using a plumb line and building level.

Step 10 On the crate, equipped in the previous operation, install the outer trim. In this case, these are vinyl siding panels.

With a competent approach to business, the external insulation of a wooden house will provide you with coziness and comfort of living in a new place.

Dried wood is not only strong and durable construction material. It also retains heat well.

Thus, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of masonry from hollow bricks on a mortar of cement and sand is 0.52, and the same coefficient for different varieties wood 0.18–0.23. In other words, the tree is about 2.5 times retains heat better than ceramic bricks.

However, modern thermal insulation materials are significantly ahead of wood in terms of their ability to retain heat, so many owners of wooden country houses try to insulate them, reducing your costs for heating.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Usually homeowners are interested in how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside under siding, because this technology most simple.

Improve wall insulation can be done in two ways:

• laying material outside;
• laying the heat insulator from the inside.

Inside wooden houses warm rarely. The reasons for this and the details of the technology of internal insulation can be found in the article "Rules and secrets of wall insulation in a wooden house from the inside." Next, consider external thermal insulation wooden building.

Wood as a building material has specific properties things to consider while working with it:

1. This natural material in its raw state is quickly destroyed by fungi and bacteria, which, under favorable conditions, destroy the building in 2–3 years.
2. The wood gradually dries out, decreasing in size. Through the pores, not only its internal moisture escapes to the outside, but also water vapor from the room. Vapor permeability, humidity and shrinkage of this building material must be taken into account when carrying out insulation work. Warming of an old wooden house from the outside possible at any time, and the walls of the new one should be insulated no earlier than three years after construction.

So that these features do not negatively affect the result of work, insulation should be done this way:

1. Choose a porous heat-insulating material that does not retain moisture and does not interfere with the release of vapors to the outside. Protect the insulation from drops of water that may fall on it from the outside.
2. If you have to make thermal insulation with a material that does not allow water vapor to pass through, leave a ventilated air gap between the wall and the insulation to remove excess steam.

Most often, after laying the thermal insulation, the wall is finished with plaster or siding. In the first case must be taken into account that the plaster does not pass water vapor well. This means that with such a finish, you need to choose a scheme with an air gap between the wall and the insulation.

When finishing with siding there will be an air gap between it and the thermal insulation. The heat insulator itself in this case is laid close to the wall. Heaters when laying according to these schemes will need different ones. Their isolation will also vary.

Choosing a heater

For independent external insulation of a wooden house, materials are usually used in slabs or rolls.

For this purpose, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene in various modifications (foam or polystyrene), polyethylene foam are suitable. Ecowool is also used, but by wet spraying.

Mineral wool — better than others, basalt wool in slabs is suitable for the installation of a ventilated facade. It consists of fibers of molten and cooled basalt bound together with a minimal amount of synthetic resin. This is a dense elastic material that retains its shape well.

Mineral wool does not burn, does not support combustion, practically does not absorb moisture, but passes water vapor well. In combination with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (at a density of 50 kg/m³ it is 0.06 W/m K), these qualities make it one of the the best heaters wood.

Ecowool is a gray powder containing natural cellulose fibers from waste, boric acid and borax. Boron compounds are non-toxic to humans and animals, but they have a detrimental effect on fungi and bacteria that cause decay. When ecowool is heated by fire, the additives act as fire retardants that extinguish the flame, so such a heater does not burn, but chars.

Ecowool is not suitable for independent work, because it is sprayed wet on wooden walls using special equipment. In regions with a maritime climate, where the air is very humid in winter, use ecowool doesn't make sense because it absorbs a lot of water vapor and loses its thermal insulation properties.

Styrofoam- This material is produced in various modifications. Fine-mesh foam has the best thermal insulation properties. Styrofoam, in which the cells are larger, stores heat somewhat worse.

All modifications of expanded polystyrene almost do not absorb water (no more than 2% of the volume) and practically do not pass water vapor. For this reason, this material is mounted.

Polyethylene foam is a modern heat insulator produced by extrusion. Contains very small gas bubbles. It is made uncoated, with one-sided and two-sided aluminum foil coating.

Differs in almost complete vapor impermeability. The foil layer reflects heat radiation, improving the heat-insulating properties. This heater can be used only in ventilated facade.

Mineral wool insulation technology

Mineral wool insulation technology provides for laying insulation without an air gap between it and the wall. This is done in such sequences:

1. Wall preparation. Before starting work, the wall should be cleaned, leveled and protected from fungus and microorganisms. For antifungal treatment sold special means in solutions. They are applied with a brush and left to dry completely. According to the instructions, processing can be done several times.
2. Laying waterproofing. A small amount of condensation may form on the mineral wool fibers. This moisture should not wet the wood. To protect the wood, a waterproofing film is fixed on the wall surface, which allows steam to pass through, but retains liquid water. This film is spread on the wall and fixed with metal brackets using a stapler. The edges of the panels should overlap to a width of 15 cm. The joints are fastened with construction tape.


3. crate. A crate of bars is constructed on top of the waterproofing film to secure the thermal insulation. For a single-layer laying, bars of 50 × 50 mm will be needed, for a two-layer laying - 50 × 100 mm (with a thickness of mineral wool sheets of 50 mm). The bars are fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws vertically, setting them on edge and controlling the level. The distance between the bars should be 4–5 cm less than the width of the mineral wool sheets. In this case, the elastic plates of the material are well held between the bars.
4. Mineral wool laying. Insulation plates are laid between the bars butt to each other, and then fixed to the wall with screws with fungi. If two layers are laid (in areas with a harsh climate), then the second layer of plates is mounted according to the principle brickwork: The top sheet should overlap the junction of the two bottom sheets.
5. Fastening of the windproofing. A windproof membrane is fixed on top of the thermal insulation. This is a film coating that does not allow wind damage to mineral wool and protects it from raindrops. Such a film easily passes water vapor. Fasten it with a stapler on the crate overlap.

1. Finishing. For finishing with this method of insulation, it is best to use vinyl siding. For its fastening to the bars, the battens are screwed with self-tapping rails with a section of 30 × 50 mm. Fasteners are screwed onto these rails with screws, and then the siding is snapped onto them.

finishing make plaster. But it cannot be applied to mineral wool, because this will significantly impair vapor permeability. Instead of siding, foam sheets can be fixed on the rails, and plaster is already applied to them.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam

Warming a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam (foam or polystyrene foam) is also easy to do with your own hands. Laying is done according to this technologies:

1. Fungus wall treatment produced in the same way as when using mineral wool.
2. After the preparation has dried on the wall with self-tapping screws the crate is fixed from vertical bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm. The distance between the bars should be no more than the width of the expanded polystyrene sheets, so that the insulation sheets, in the future, can be conveniently attached to this layer of bars.
3. A vapor barrier film is stretched onto the crate and fastened with a stapler. Instead, you can nail a layer of foil-wrapped polyethylene foam (penofol) with foil towards the wall. The edges of this heat insulator are butted, the joints are sealed with metallized tape. Thus, an air gap of 50 mm thick remains between the vapor barrier layer and the wall to remove water vapor.


4. An additional crate is stuffed on top of the film or penofol on the bars from horizontal bars. The thickness of the beams is chosen so that after laying the thermal insulation, the surface of the expanded polystyrene sheets is on the same level with the outer surface of the beams. For such flat surface easy to apply plaster.
5. Expanded polystyrene sheets are laid on horizontal bars, fixing them with screws with fungi to the vertical bars of the previous crate. If necessary, overlap several layers of insulation.
6. Over a layer of expanded polystyrene on the crate fix the reinforcing mesh and then plaster is applied.

In this case heat insulator layer protected not only from water, but also from steam. Steam seeping through the wooden wall escapes through the air gap between the insulation and the wall. Despite the low thermal conductivity of wood, it makes sense to insulate the walls of a wooden house with modern heat insulators, since their thermal conductivity is much lower.

The installation of thermal insulation must be started after completion of the shrinkage of the new house. To insulate a wooden house, materials of different properties can be used, but subject to the condition of free exit of steam through the pores of the wood.

How to properly insulate a wooden house outside under siding, look at the video:

holodine.net

Scheme of insulation of wooden facades

1. At the first stage, antifungal treatment of the walls is performed.

2. Laying a vapor barrier layer. Its task is to protect against getting wet and at the same time to provide ventilation of the facade.

Acceptable options for creating a parabarrier are as follows:

• polyethylene film (not thinner than 0.1 mm);
• bituminous roofing material;
• aluminum foil 0.02 mm thick;
• special film for vapor barrier.

If the log house is made of round logs, then the ventilation gap is formed naturally, and buildings with smooth walls require stuffing of vertical slats 2-2.5 cm in size, located along the perimeter at intervals of about 1 m. slats with bituminous mastic.

3. Thermal insulation. The crate is made of boards with a section of 5x10 cm. They are nailed to the walls so as to form deep niches, the width of which is 20 mm less than the width of the plates (for tight laying). Warming of the facade of a wooden house with mineral wool is carried out in two layers with overlapping joints. To do this, take elastic plates with a rigidity of at least 90 kg / m3. They do not need to be specially fixed so that unnecessary cold bridges do not appear.

4. Waterproofing. On top of the frame, a waterproofing film is attached to the boards with brackets, which does not allow external moisture to pass through and is permeable to internal steam. After that, the cladding frame is stuffed, creating the necessary ventilation gap (its underside is isolated from mice and insects with a steel mesh with small cells).

Insulation of a frame house from the outside

The base of the house is constructed from timber sheathed with massive OSB boards. The resulting interstitial space is filled with insulation. For the insulation of frame buildings, the same materials are mounted as for wooden houses, protecting them with a vapor barrier and a wind membrane. If high humidity is noticeable in the premises, polystyrene foam materials are undesirable.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation is carried out in stages:

• the leveled surface of the base is cleaned, primed with an adhesive solution of low concentration;
• lay a waterproofing layer that protects the walls from external moisture and dampness. As a waterproofing, it is better to use glassine or modern membrane coatings;
• Penoplex plates are fixed with glue, after drying, the sheets are screwed with plastic dowels (metal ones contribute to heat loss);
• a protective layer is applied by double-puttying the slabs with a pre-attached reinforced mesh. At the end, the walls are covered with facade paint.

What you need to know about home insulation from the inside

If desired, along with the outer, internal insulation of the housing is carried out. This is done if the interior space of the house allows. Used as a frame aluminum profiles: They are preferred over wooden slats due to their dimensional accuracy. Sequence of operations:

• pasting walls with waterproofing;
• installation between the mineral wool layer guides. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of it, which is glued with adhesive tape directly onto the metal profile;
• installation drywall sheets and final finishing.

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Types of thermal insulation materials

When deciding whether to insulate a wooden house, you should know that it depends on how well it is built. With the right thickness of the walls (in accordance with the winter temperatures in the region), additional thermal insulation is unlikely to be needed. Where it is cold, it is necessary to insulate a structure made of natural wood. It is important to choose the right materials for this. Not everything is recommended for the exterior walls of a wooden house.

Thermal insulation of a log house

Important. Heaters are divided into natural and artificial. The first "breathe", do not violate the microclimate of the building. The latter are more affordable, but not always safe for health.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? This question always remains open. Adherents of natural materials are happy to use mats made of algae (damask) and hemp (hemp fiber), despite their high cost, and adobe. Those who do not disdain artificial thermal insulation most often use the following heaters:

• mineral (glass, stone, basalt wool);
• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• ecowool;
• polystyrene and polystyrene.

What material to insulate the walls, if the choice is so wide? You need to build on the technical characteristics of heaters.

Mineral wool

This is a classic insulation for walls, and not only wooden ones. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.033-0.046 W / (m * C) depending on the density, water absorption is 0.49-0.6 Mg / (m * h * Pa). Basalt wool is the most expensive variety. It does not burn, does not rot or mold, perfectly passes steam and does not get wet.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Material made from glass waste is not recommended due to rather large shrinkage and high water absorption. Stone wool is a good option with an average thermal conductivity and a fairly attractive price. Water absorption coefficient - 2% of the total volume.

Warming the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool is a fairly economical option. If plates are used, then installation is quick and you can do without an assistant.

PPU

Polyurethane foam is a new generation material. This is a sprayed thermal insulation with a minimum coefficient of water absorption (0.05) and thermal conductivity (0.023–0.041). The denser the material, the higher the thermal conductivity. PPU "envelops" the structure with a whitish or cream-colored fur coat, not allowing moisture or cold air. Vapor permeability is practically zero. Finishing required.

Thermal insulation of a log house with polyurethane foam

The opinion of experts about the use of polyurethane foam as a heater is different. Some believe that it should not be used for wooden buildings. The tree does not breathe under it and slowly collapses. Others believe that if you correctly calculate the thickness of polyurethane foam for wood walls, the surface will always be dry and protected from decay. Moisture exchange, characteristic of wood, will occur not on the street, but indoors.

Important. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside (external) is preferable to internal. In this case, the dew point moves closer to the street, and the tree will be dry.

Penoizol

Insulation with a high coefficient of water absorption, weakly resistant to mechanical stress, mandatory arrangement of wind and moisture protection is required. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.031–0.041, water absorption up to 20% of its own weight. Evaporates moisture fairly quickly. Light weight, suitable for ventilated facades.

Ecowool

Natural, environmentally friendly material from waste paper production - waste paper. Thermal conductivity is comparable to PPU 0.032–0.041. Water absorption is lower than that of mineral wool - up to 1% of the total volume. Installation is carried out by dry filling or wet spraying on a surface with a pre-installed crate.

Ecowool

Ecowool is the right choice for insulating the exterior walls of the house. This material should be considered as a priority, including for independent work.

Expanded polystyrenes

Despite its popularity due to its low cost and availability (you can buy it at any hardware store), polystyrene and polystyrene are not recommended for insulating wooden walls.

Thermal insulation of a frame house with foam

• easy to ignite though modern technology allows you to reduce the indicator as much as possible when using various flame retardant additives;
• when burned, toxic substances are released;
• become covered with mold over time;
• short-lived.

Thermal insulation of a log house with foam plastic

Styrofoam and foam plastic are often used to insulate the basement of a wooden house. This part of the building is usually concrete or brick. The material is glued with a special compound, additionally fixed with dowels and plastered or covered with some kind of light finish. This is the best application of thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene can insulate the basement, as well as protect the foundation from freezing.

Thermal insulation methods

The most correct insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the arrangement of a ventilation facade. In this case, the thermal insulation does not come into contact with the wood. Between the walls and the insulation "pie" there is a small space where air masses move freely.

Frame House Thermal Insulation Pie

Another, possible, but more time-consuming method is a false wall, equipped using frame-panel technology. The space between it and the monolithic surface is filled with heat-insulating material. This design can be done independently, but it is better to entrust the work to professionals. Experts will make calculations to determine the optimal thickness of thermal insulation.

Important. A false wall cannot hang in the air or rest on the ground, so you have to make a light foundation, and this is an additional financial cost.

The "wet facade" technology is also used for the insulation of wooden buildings. However, this loses all the charm of a structure made of natural wood. The material is glued to the walls and additionally fixed with dowels-umbrellas, a fine-mesh mesh is attached on top and plastered. This method is unlikely to be suitable for a log house.

Thermal insulation pie of a log or log house

Self-insulation technology: step by step instructions

Polyurethane foam and penoizol, although they are the preferred thermal insulation according to their technical characteristics, are not suitable for self-assembly, so if you are planning to insulate the facade with your own hands, then it is better to use mineral and paper wool (ecowool).

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

• sandpaper (large, medium);
• universal impregnation;
• brushes or rollers for impregnating;
• material for sealing cracks (caulking);
• timber for crates;
• saw for cutting materials;
• fasteners (nails, anchors);
• hammer;
• construction stapler;
• heat insulators (mineral wool, ecowool);
• plywood (for laying ecowool in a dry way);
• vapor barrier and waterproofing films;
• finishing (block house, siding, clinker panels, lining - to choose from).

Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the surface. This applies to any building made of wood - timber, frame-panel, log house, and especially to old buildings. Ideally, a large sandpaper is passed over the tree, removing dirt, efflorescence, greasy spots, old finish. Then sweep with a broom to remove dust.

The next step is impregnation. They choose a universal one that protects against wood-boring bugs, and from mold and rot, and from fire. After complete drying, proceed to warming.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: ventilated facade

The technology of warming the walls of a wooden house from the outside:

1. Seal all gaps. Use caulk material.
2. Install horizontal crate for ventilation (slat height up to 0.5 cm).
3. Fasten the vapor barrier film to the crate with a construction stapler. Glue the joints with construction tape.
4. Make the next layer of the crate perpendicular to the first (the thickness of the timber is slightly greater than the thickness of the mineral wool). The step is 1 cm less than the width of the thermal insulation material.
5. Lay mineral wool slabs in the formed cavities.
6. If the household is located in the northern regions, install another crate, placing the beam perpendicular to the beam of the first layer, and lay the mineral wool slabs - now all cold bridges are blocked.
7. Stretch the waterproofing membrane. The side that absorbs moisture should face the insulation. Fix the film with a stapler. Seal the joints with construction tape.

Mineral wool counter grille

The process is completed with finishing - you can sheathe a wooden house outside with vinyl siding, clapboard, block house.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Before buying this insulation, you need to calculate its optimal thickness. Ecowool is sold in briquettes, highly compressed. Before starting work, it must be fluffed. Usually used for this purpose construction mixer. Put a bale of ecowool in a large container and "whisk".

Manual installation of ecowool

Warming scheme:

1. Make a zero crate.
2. Stretch the vapor barrier membrane.
3. Make the first level of the crate (the thickness of the timber should be equal to the thickness of the ecowool layer).
4. Outside, stretch a moisture-proof film along the crate.
5. Install the first row of plywood.
6. Start laying ecowool in the resulting cavities. Pour in layers and tamp with your hands or something more convenient, such as a homemade trampler like a short trowel.
7. As soon as the level of ecowool is equal to the top edge of the plywood and will spring under your hands, install another row of chipboard and repeat all the manipulations.
8. Continue until the wall is completely insulated.

Important. This is a good way of thermal insulation, but at the very top it is possible to leave small voids. In the case of ecowool, the best option is to invite a specialist who, using a special installation, will blow the material into the cavity under pressure.

Mechanical blowing of ecowool

log building

How to properly insulate a log house, while keeping the wood intact? Use ventilation facade technology. Only here it is not required to install a zero crate - the one on which the vapor barrier is attached. The log has a semicircular shape, so it is not necessary to raise the level additionally - the air gap is provided by the features of the building material.

It is possible to insulate a log house from the outside with both mineral wool and ecowool. Both materials are breathable, so they do not interfere with the natural moisture exchange of wood with the environment.

If the building is old

In this case, all the steps described in the technology of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated facade are observed. True, it is required to approach the preliminary preparation more thoughtfully.

Ventilated facade crate

To insulate an old wooden house:

1. Remove the old finish from the walls - peel it off to the very wood.
2. Examine the tree for voids from carpenter bugs. Large ones will need to be reached, treated with impregnations, dried and puttied.
3. Treat with an antiseptic, after drying - with a flame retardant composition.
4. After drying the walls, carry out thermal insulation with mineral wool.

Warming an old building made of wood is a slightly more time-consuming, but feasible task for independent implementation. Be sure to choose the right type of finish.

Frame and panel structures

They are thermally insulated in the same way as any wooden buildings. Do not use, even if you really want to save money, polystyrene foam. insulate frame house outside you can use ecowool - this is ideal. Use dry backfill (the technology is described above) or call a craftsman who will spray the moistened material directly onto the wooden walls of the house. The second option for thermal insulation characteristics much better.

The panel house can be insulated from the outside with mineral wool. Use several crates to completely block the cold bridges. And don't forget the ventilation gap. Block-house finishing is the closest imitation of timber.

Important. Do not forget to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. This is especially important if the attic is cold.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation

In order for the thermal insulation of a wooden house to be done correctly, you need to do it before you get to work. correct calculations. Wood has a low thermal conductivity, is able to accumulate heat, and then slowly release it. A house made of wood, closed from the outside with “alien” material, loses its naturalness. If you can’t do without additional thermal insulation, carry out thermal protection wisely - protect not only the walls from the cold, but also the basement, foundation, floor, roof with an attic.

Wooden houses are considered one of the most popular types of buildings, especially if we are talking about the countryside and the buildings of the beginning and middle of this century, where many still have rubble. Not everyone can change housing, and it is not always possible to do this. But nevertheless, the issues of energy saving and energy efficiency in our time of high tariffs for resources and utilities are of concern to everyone. And today we will talk about how to insulate wooden houses from the outside.

Features of thermal insulation of wood

Any wood has a property that allows it to absorb moisture. With the help of various impregnations, it is possible to reduce the hygroscopicity of such a material, but it is not possible to completely eliminate this property. If there is an effective ventilation system, then moisture can evaporate quite quickly and efficiently and no negative impact she will not have time to provide wood, which will allow maintaining a good microclimate in a village or city house.

But the violation of the movement of air masses leads to the fact that condensate begins to accumulate and the tree begins to swell, due to which fungus and rot begin to appear on it, and the air begins to smell characteristically. In order to avoid such problems, it is recommended to follow these tips:

• use only insulation with good vapor-permeable characteristics;
• it is better to insulate dry walls, but not wet and damp;
• cover the thermal insulation with a waterproofing membrane on both sides;
• leave a small air gap between the finish and the insulation.

If the walls of a wooden house are planned to be painted, or if it is simply necessary to insulate the seams, then the paint with sealant must also be chosen to be vapor-permeable.

As a rule, these are those that are made on an acrylic basis. And of course, the surface must be prepared as much as possible before warming. In addition, the logs themselves or the surface of the outer boards must not be damaged by pests such as bark beetles.

Facade insulation methods

It should be said that for the insulation of a wooden house from the outside, there are two technologies for external insulation:

• ventilated facade;
• wet facade.

The first technology is suitable for frame houses. The frame is mounted on the walls, after which it is sheathed with siding, clapboard or some other finishing material. In this case, the insulation is placed between the finishing material and the wall. This technology is very good in that it excludes wet work, and the facade itself in this case will be more durable and durable.

In the second case, the walls of the house are simply pasted over with insulation, after which they are plastered using a technology specially developed for this.

Now let's talk in more detail about the features of each of the methods.

Ventilated facade technology

The process of creating a so-called ventilated (or hinged) facade includes several parts:

• facade preparation;
• arrangement of the ventilation gap and installation of the frame;
• frame sheathing.

If we talk about a heater that can be used with this method, then it should be said that mineral wool would be the best solution. Many people want to carry out foam insulation.

And, in principle, with this method, its use is also allowed. It is only necessary to remember that the foam plastic resists the effects of fire very poorly, and also does not allow steam and moisture to pass through. And this can negatively affect the microclimate inside the house. Therefore, in this case, it is better to give preference to mineral wool.

If we talk about racks for the frame, then either bars or boards are used for it. They can be attached to the walls using brackets or metal corners. By the way, as an option, you can apply a profile that is used to install drywall. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film that will protect the insulation from getting wet, the material that will be used for finishing: siding, lining, block house, or some kind of facade material.

Also, to implement this method, you will need an interventional heater. Usually, jute tow is used in this capacity, which acts as an excellent protection for seams, but you can use special foam or any other materials that work. You will also need a wood preservative so that it can resist moisture. It is usually applied under plaster.

Now let's talk about the features of another method.

Wet facade technology

It consists of the following parts:

• facade preparation;
• installation of insulation;
• reinforcement;
• painting.

Speaking a little more, in this case it is also better to give preference to such material as mineral wool. In addition to insulation, in this case it will also be necessary to purchase a special glue for mineral wool, dowels in the form of umbrellas, a special reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass, perforated corners, a primer, paint for the facade, as well as decorative plaster. After all these materials are purchased, you can begin to work.

Material characteristics

The decision to insulate a wooden house must be made with an eye on the quality of its construction. If the wall thickness is chosen correctly, then it may not be necessary to additionally make thermal insulation. But it is necessary to insulate a wooden house if it is cold in it. And if he is also old, then, most likely, he simply cannot do without it.

But at the same time, it is important to choose materials for this so that their effectiveness is maximized. Not all heaters are recommended for insulating houses of this type from the outside.

The first category does not violate the microclimate of the house, as it allows it to breathe. The second category of materials will be more affordable in terms of price, but the use of such materials may not always be safe for health. But the question, which is the best way to insulate a wooden house, is really very important. Those who prefer natural materials, most often use mats made of algae, adobe or hemp fiber. Sometimes homeowners also resort to wood and sawdust insulation. But this is, say, not a very ecological way of warming.

And those who believe that artificial thermal insulation is not the worst solution can insulate houses with extruded polystyrene foam, basalt slabs, isopine, isover, foam plastic and even expanded clay.

You should also give the following list of artificial heaters for the house:

• mineral insulation, which includes Various types wool: stone, glass wool and basalt;
• penoizol;
• ecowool;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam.

In general, as you can see, the choice of heaters for creating thermal insulation of a wooden house is very large. But how do you choose The best decision? You can try to study specifications heaters, which will be discussed below.

stone wool

This material is classified as non-combustible, since it easily withstands heating up to 600 degrees and does not change its physical properties and characteristics under the influence of such a temperature. Also stone wool It has good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. Most often, this material is presented in the form of plates or mats, and is covered with kraft paper, fiberglass or foil. Basalt slabs are quite dense, which allows them, with properly performed thermal insulation, not only not to shrink, but also to retain their shape well throughout the entire period of use.

In addition, this material perfectly resists the appearance of microorganisms. Mounting such a plate is very simple due to its low weight and size.

If we talk about the shortcomings, then there are not so many of them in such a plate. The main thing can be called the low strength of the fibers: if the material is squeezed or cut, then dust is quickly formed, which is very easy to inhale. For this reason, it is better to work with the material after putting on a respirator. Another disadvantage of this material will be a rather high price, so if the budget is small, it is better to look for alternatives.

Ecowool

The production of ecowool is carried out from the waste of the cardboard and paper industry. For this reason, this type of insulation is 80 percent cellulose. In order to improve the characteristics of cellulose, its fibers are mixed with flame retardants and antiseptics. Such a material can absorb and release water without losing its thermal insulation properties. If you make a choice in favor of such a heater, then condensate will never appear. In addition, it has excellent soundproofing properties, and it does not emit any harmful substances. By the way, insects or rodents do not start in such a heater due to the presence of special additives in its composition.

This type of insulation is a loose, light mass gray color, which is tightly packed in bags from 15 kilograms. Before warming, the mass is poured out of the bag, loosened with a mixer, and then laid. The effectiveness of such a material depends on the density of the layer. If the material is compacted too weakly, it shrinks very quickly and forms cold bridges. But if such cotton wool is laid tightly, then it will not change its characteristics during the entire service life.

If we talk about the shortcomings of ecowool, then first of all we should name the technology of its laying. This requires a special pneumatic installation, which is expensive and requires special knowledge. That is, in this case, it is also necessary to spend money on the search for certain specialists.

glass wool

Glass wool is made from broken glass melts, where borax, limestone and other components are added. The link in this case will be either bitumen or synthetic type polymers. Glass wool has long fibers, which allows it to surpass analogs on another basis in terms of elasticity, and also to have a high mechanical density, despite its low density.

It should be noted that glass wool is vapor-permeable, perfectly retains heat and is not afraid of exposure to substances that are chemically aggressive. It does not burn and calmly withstands heating up to 450 degrees without changing its physical properties. And also it perfectly resists sudden changes in temperature.

Glass wool is produced in the form of mats, plates and rolls, including those with a foil coating. Its greatest disadvantage can be called the causticity of the fibers, which cause severe irritation of the human skin and easily get into the eyes and lungs. In addition, it is quite fragile, which is why it is quite difficult to work with it - before laying it, you must wear good and thick clothes, as well as gloves.

Styrofoam

This material is the most affordable in terms of cost. It has excellent performance characteristics, which allows using it to significantly save on heating. This material is made in the form of panels of various sizes and thicknesses. For carrying out insulation work of an external nature, a material with an average density is used. It is important to understand here that the greater the density of the insulation, the worse its thermal insulation qualities will be. True, the resistance to stress will be higher. Too dense material is usually used for floor insulation.

This material has a small mass and is a good barrier not only to cold air masses, but also to sound. It has a low thermal conductivity, due to which it retains the accumulated heat in the room for a long time. It is easy to cut and attach to the wall.

In addition, it is resistant to temperature extremes and exposure to ultraviolet radiation, does not absorb moisture and has a considerable service life. At the same time, this material also has a number of disadvantages. Its mechanical strength is extremely low: the material is very easy to break and crumble. For this reason, after fixing to the wall, it will require protection with reinforcement, as well as applying a decorative coating. By the way, they can do interior decoration by placing it, for example, under drywall.

The disadvantage of the material can also be called its poor resistance to fire. Moreover, when exposed to high temperatures, it can release substances hazardous to health. By the way, if it is supposed to use glue to fix the material, then you need to find out if this or that particular brand of glue is suitable, since some types can destroy the material.

slag wool

To create this type of mineral wool, blast-furnace slags, that is, waste from the metallurgical industry, are used. This determines the availability of this type of material. Slag wool is slightly more thermally conductive than basalt insulation. The material can be heated up to 300 degrees Celsius without problems. If the temperature is higher, then it begins to deform and lose its characteristics. As a rule, slag wool is produced in rolls and plates, often coated with foil. It has low rigidity, which is why it is excellent for thermal insulation uneven surfaces, as well as excellent thermal and sound insulation characteristics. It also cannot grow mold.

But slag wool also has a number of disadvantages:

• hygroscopic;
• does not like temperature changes;
• releases acids when exposed to moisture;
• when hit on skin covering causes extreme irritation.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is considered the material of a new generation. It is a sprayed heat insulator. It absorbs moisture minimally and also has minimal thermal conductivity. The most interesting thing is that the higher the density of polyurethane foam, the higher its thermal conductivity. In fact, this material, as it were, envelops the building and does not let in either cold air masses or moisture.

This material is great solution for buildings in areas with an arctic climate, since its characteristics are extremely effective for such natural conditions.

True, experts are rather ambiguous in assessing the need to use this material as a heater. According to some, use polyurethane foam for wooden buildings it is not worth it, because the tree simply does not breathe, for which reason its slow destruction begins. According to others, if you correctly calculate the thickness of the polyurethane foam coating for wooden walls, then the surface will always be dry and perfectly protected from decay, and the moisture exchange that wood needs will be carried out inside the room, and not outside.

Natural heat insulators

As mentioned above, in addition to artificial ones, there are also so-called natural heat insulators. These include boards made from sawdust of the type Steico Flex, straw. And you can also use clay insulation, which is also considered a heater. In general, this category of heaters from the point of view of environmental friendliness is an excellent solution. In addition, they are inexpensive. But their main disadvantage is the complexity of creation. Also, flax fiber is used as a natural insulation, which has excellent antiseptic properties and prevents the appearance of mold and fungus. This material is easy to cut, install, and easy to work with.

Separately, it is necessary to talk about the Steico Flex material. This material is a wood fiber mat that is easy to install and process even without the use of tools.

Such material can not only insulate the walls, but also the floor, as well as the ceiling. In addition, such a heater will be an excellent solution not only for a wooden house, but also for a house made of chopped timber or lined with bricks. It also has excellent noise isolation characteristics and responds well to temperature changes.

Its use allows you to make the microclimate in the house as comfortable as possible for its inhabitants.

Thickness calculation

An important point is the calculation of the thickness of the insulation. It should be noted that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the walls of the house, as well as climatic features. But to know how thick the insulation should be is simply necessary. If there is too much of it, then this can adversely affect the house, and an insufficient amount will cause the low efficiency of the insulation process as a whole.

In addition, this parameter significantly affects the design of the frame, since to know at what distance from the walls the guides under outer skin, very important. It is not difficult to make such calculations yourself, especially if you apply a certain calculation methodology. Its essence is that the total heat transfer resistance of a wall of several layers of construction R should not be less than the calculated one for a certain climatic region.

It should be noted that the wall is not only the frame itself, but also the entire interior decoration, thermal insulation layer, as well as the exterior decoration of the facade. Each layer has its own thermal resistance index, which also needs to be calculated.

To determine the specific required thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to know the thermal conductivity of each layer, as well as their thickness. The calculation will be carried out according to the formula: Rn = Hn / λn, Where:

• Hn is the thickness of a specific layer;
• λn is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which this or that layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula will look like this: Hu = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3…) × λу, Where

• λу is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the specified thermal insulator;
• H is the thickness of the insulation.

It is quite easy to find such coefficients. Sometimes manufacturers even indicate them on the packaging. Measuring the thickness of the layers is also not difficult. If there is no desire to calculate everything manually, then you can use an online calculator. It already has all the necessary basic and frequently used building, insulation and finishing materials.

Preparatory work

If we talk about the preparatory work before warming the house, then they should be carried out in the dry and warm season so that the walls are not frozen or damp. The surface of the walls must be cleaned as efficiently as possible from dirt, dust, moss, fungi. Be sure to carefully inspect the intervents seams. If you find any voids, then they must be re-sealed with a sealant, and then closed with a sealant. The same method can be used if you find deep cracks in the wood of a log house.

After that, priming is carried out. The primer is applied with a brush, carefully processing all the recesses, irregularities, as well as the end sections of the logs.

Note that if the tree absorbs the primer too quickly, then it is applied in two layers. After that, it is necessary to wait for the surface to dry completely and only then proceed to the process of warming itself.

If the work is carried out using the technology of a hinged facade, it is required to carry out its preparation, which consists of the following stages:

• dismantling of all elements hinged type that may interfere with the work (antennas, visors, window sills and ebbs);
• treatment of walls with antiseptic impregnation;
• closure of interventional gaps with a heater, if any.

In general, this is an approximate list of preparatory work. But it may differ depending on the type and structure of the house, the chosen insulation technology, as well as the features of the building itself.

Installation steps

Let's consider an exemplary warming algorithm both in the case of ventilated facade technology and in the case of wet facade technology, which are done by hand.

So, if the preparatory work on the creation of a hinged facade is done correctly and the technology is observed, then after that the installation of the frame for insulation begins.

At the first stage, it is necessary to equip the ventilation gap. To do this, attach boards with a thickness of 2 centimeters to the walls. You can arrange them however you like. The main thing is that later you can attach racks to them.

After that, we attach a vapor barrier film to the boards using a stapler. Be sure it must be stretched and overlapped so that there is space between it and the wall. Places where there will be joints should be glued with tape. It should be noted that the insulation of the ventilation gap is important, because if this is not done, moisture may begin to accumulate between the insulation and the wall, which will lead to bad consequences. After that, the racks are installed. First, two extreme racks are mounted, between which the ropes should be pulled. These will be a kind of beacons for intermediate type rails. The installation of the outer racks is carried out at the same distance from the wall and only vertically.

If the boards are used as drains, then they should be strengthened with metal corners and self-tapping screws. After that, the installation of intermediate rails is carried out, which are located at a distance of 1-2 centimeters from the mineral wool slabs.

Now it is necessary to lay heat-insulating material in the space between the racks. As a rule, in this case it is better to use mineral wool. The mats should fit as close as possible to each other and the racks so that there are no gaps in the insulation. After that, a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame. It should also be overlapped. It is fixed with the help of horizontal rails, which will also hold the insulation. This completes the insulation of the facade in this way.

After that, the frame should be sheathed, which will be the final step. Finishing may vary. If you do not have any pronounced preferences, then focus primarily on the price and quality of the material.

For example, lining is an eco-friendly material that allows you to maintain an attractive appearance of the house. And if you take vinyl siding, then such material is easy to clean and does not require any special care.

If you decide to still apply siding, then the sequence of actions will be as follows:

• it is necessary to carry out the installation of the starting profile, which should be placed horizontally around the perimeter of the house (it will not be superfluous to leave a distance from the ground or blind area to the profile of about ten centimeters);
• appropriate profiles are mounted in the corners of the house;
• the first row of panels is installed: from below, the siding is inserted into the starting profile, and from above it and the crate are connected using self-tapping screws;
• according to this mechanism, the whole house is sheathed with siding;
• before installing the last panel, it is necessary to fix the final profile;
• at the end, the installation of the remaining elements is carried out: ebbs, slopes, and so on.

This is where the siding ends. It should be said that according to the same scheme, the house is sheathed with clapboard, thermal panels or other materials.

If we're talking about wet facade, then after preparation, the walls of the house are immediately pasted over with mineral wool for plastering. First, prepare the glue, and then apply it on mineral mats with a notched trowel. It will not be superfluous to use the building level, as well as pull the beacons so that all the plates are located in the same plane. After all the walls of the house are pasted over, the mineral wool should be fixed to the wall with the help of umbrella dowels.

Now window openings, including gables, are pasted over with mineral wool. Dowels do not need to be installed on window slopes, but it is necessary on door slopes. After that, we apply the rule to various sections of the walls and check if there are any bumps. After that, glue the perforated corners on the outer corners with glue. In the final, we cover the dowel caps with glue so that the facade is smooth.

Now we carry out the process of reinforcement, which is also called rough plastering. First, we prepare the mesh by cutting it into pieces of the required size. Then we cut pieces for slopes. Now we glue the grid on the slopes, after which we do the same actions with the walls. When everything is dry, apply the glue again with a thin layer and eliminate irregularities. Now it remains only to apply decorative plaster. This process will be easier than reinforcement, and is carried out in the following sequence:

• the walls of the house are treated with a primer (it is best to apply it in two layers);
• the solution is prepared according to the instructions on the pack;
• decorative plaster is applied to the walls with a spatula, while the layer should be as thin as possible;
• when the plaster begins to set on the walls, it is necessary to wipe it with a small one, which will allow you to create a pattern;
• it remains only to paint the house, and everything will be ready.

In general, as you can see, it is possible to insulate a wooden house from the outside on your own. But it is important to observe the technology of this process as much as possible, to have a clear idea of ​​the nuances of the work and to determine exactly which method of insulation and what material is suitable for this.