Blunt knives on the farm can not only cause a bad mood for the hostess, but also cause accidents. Hardware stores have a range of tools designed for sharpening knives, but not all of them suit customers. Alternatively, you can make a knife sharpening machine yourself; the drawings for its manufacture are not difficult for a person who knows how to craft.
Types of stones for processing blades
Before you start making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the information about its components. Grinding stones, or they can also be called - abrasive stones are one of the decisive factors in achieving an excellent result, but no less important role plays the skill of the master.
Types of grindstones
So to get perfect sharpening you have to practice a lot.
There are the following types of stones suitable for sharpening cutting surfaces:
- Tools that require water to work. The advantage of this type of whetstone is material savings - the surface of the tool is less subject to wear.
- Oil stones are similar in structure to water stones, but have an oily surface.
- Natural stones are made from natural materials. Before making a tool, such a stone undergoes industrial processing.
- Artificial stones - in their manufacture are used artificial materials. It is believed that a tool made from non-natural components is inferior in quality to natural materials but they are pretty cheap.
If desired, you can make a homemade abrasive bar. To do this, you need to take a flat rectangular plexiglass 5 mm thick and stick it on it using double-sided tape sandpaper. This is the easiest way to make a knife sharpener, it is convenient because when the sandpaper is worn out, it is easy to replace it.
Why is the sharpening angle so important?
The angle between the edges of the blade is called the sharpening angle. Precise observance of the given angle is the main requirement when processing the cutting surface with an abrasive tool, and it is its value that affects the sharpness of the blade.
With a simple marker, you can control the turning angle, just paint over the area to be sharpened with it. Uniform erasing of paint indicates good quality blade processing.
Prerequisites for a grinder
In order to make knives for your own hands, you need to carefully plan the stages of work and draw up drawings. If the master has experience, then he can develop them on his own or use ready-made drawings that are offered in special literature.
For a perfect cutting surface, the machine must meet the following requirements:
- reliable and at the same time not too rigid fixation of the knife in a vice;
- observance of the angle value, during the sharpening process, the angle must be constant;
- the design of the machine should provide for the possibility of changing the angle of sharpening.
You can read below how to make your own devices for straightening blades, which are in no way inferior to purchased mechanisms.
DIY knife sharpener
The most affordable sharpener option
We make the fastest version of the device. To do this, you need to prepare 2 pairs of wooden corners, an abrasive block and a protractor to correctly determine the sharpening angle. The dimensions of the bars should be the same. Wooden corners are fastened together with adjustable screws, and a sharpening bar is securely fixed between them at the required angle.
Despite the ease of manufacture, such machines have a number of disadvantages, these include:
- the processing angle has to be maintained manually - which is not very convenient during a long processing process;
- the need for rigid fixation of the device on working surface for its sustainability;
- when sharpening, you need to constantly control the tension of the screeds so that the bar does not change its position.
But it should be noted that such simple homemade quite suitable for home processing kitchen knives and do not require large financial investments in the manufacture.
Manual grinder with adjustable bar
This machine is a more complex design, but it is much more convenient to use. The basis for its creation was a model of a machine called the Lansky sharpener.
Sharpener Lansky
advantage similar models is a reliable fixation of the knife blade.
The device is a support table on which the knife is fixed. At the opposite end of the table, a screw post with a bar is vertically fixed. A guide rod is inserted into this bar, on which an abrasive bar is mounted. By moving the bar along the screw rod, you can change the value of the angle of metal processing.
The advantages of machines with a similar design include:
- high processing accuracy;
- the possibility of replacing the bar with sandpaper glued to plexiglass;
- The wide support base allows you to fix the machine with the help of any table.
When operating the machine, the difficulty lies only in the long adjustment of the position of the whetstone. If processing is planned different types blades, you will have to reconfigure the device each time.
Possibility to adjust the position of the knife
An alternative to a machine with a movable grindstone is a device where it is possible to adjust the position of the knife relative to the bar. Basically, its design is similar to the adjustable bar machine, a little easier to manufacture.
On the plane of the base, a movable block is mounted for fastening the rod with a bar. Clamps are also installed on it, one adjustable, the second persistent. With the help of an adjustable clamp, the angle of sharpening can be adjusted.
The only drawback of this model is the appearance of bar wear in one specific place. This disadvantage can be eliminated by installing a long pin for adjusting the edge relative to the surface to be treated.
Each of the above options has its own advantages and disadvantages. When making your choice in favor of a particular model, it is necessary to focus on the level of skills and the magnitude of the needs for operating the machine.
Video: Making a knife sharpening machine
Every housewife sooner or later begins to dull the knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or butchers meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. At any time, it can break off the cut product and cause injury. Therefore, periodically the tool should be undermined, using for this special device for sharpening knives.
Such sharpeners in a wide range are available in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of stones for sharpening, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.
Sharpening knives - prerequisites
For efficient and long-lasting knife operation the most important factor when sharpening it is blade angle. In the process of sharpening, it is necessary to restore the previously set angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.
For each blade, its optimal angle is selected:
- for a razor and a scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10-15 degrees;
- knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15-20 degrees;
- multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
- hunting and hiking knives - at an angle of 25-30 degrees;
- cutting knives hard materials- 30-40 degrees.
Without a special tool, sharpen the blade under right angle difficult. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to provide required angle of inclination cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the production itself will take not so much time.
There are many types of sharpeners for knives, among which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.
All devices consist of two parts:
- a bar of abrasive material;
- stop for attaching a knife.
As a bar, you can use ready-made special stones or make it yourself.
Sharpening stones - types and manufacture
On sale you can find several types of stones:
Aquatic tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.
Oil the stone resembles water in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.
Natural instruments are made from natural stones undergoing industrial processing.
artificial stones are made from non-natural components.
Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working on them is not very convenient.
For self-production of an abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates and a thickness of 4-5 millimeters. On the surface of the plates with the help of double-sided tape, you need to stick sandpaper of different grain sizes. The cost of such bars will turn out to be quite small, and sandpaper can be replaced at any time.
However, when using a glass bar, you should be very carefully tighten the nuts otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used in its application, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, fast movements should be avoided, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to loss of blade properties.
Tool for sharpening wood blocks
It is enough just to make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.
For greater stability of the sharpener to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber.
Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting brackets
The Lansky sharpener is taken as the basis for such a device, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.
Required materials and tools:
- metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
- standard aluminum corners;
- metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
- a set of nuts and bolts;
- grinder with a vise or file;
- file.
Instead of grinder you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding sharp corners from the corners and cleaning the places where the metal is cut.
Steps for making a sharpener:
- According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
- Holes are drilled and threaded into them.
- With the help of a file, everything is rounded sharp corners and edges. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
- Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
- The hole for the spoke support is expanded with a needle file.
- The holes for the studs are threaded.
- The rods are inserted into the extreme holes and fixed with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
- An M8 bolt is screwed into a wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
- Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
- Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is strung, which is fixed with nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, it will be possible to adjust the sharpening angle.
- From a thin metal rod in the shape of the letter G, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut, a device is assembled that will hold the stone for sharpening. The end holder should be with a through hole for the knitting needle.
Such a device for sharpening knives has a fairly wide range of degrees of pressure angle and is most convenient to use.
A convenient sharpening machine will be useful to every man in the house. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.
There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning bar will suffice, or ready-made fixtures with an angled gap.
To adjust expensive hunting knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, which are based on a high-strength alloy.
This article will describe the manufacture of a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.
Why do knives get dull?
What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut have a negative effect on the cutting edge. For example, they are present on vegetables, paper. talking plain language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.
The next reason is the inability to keep the blade in the right position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.
sharpening technique
The sharpening technique consists in unified, but at the same time quite laborious methods. the main task lies in the elimination of damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides a good mood and calm.
The basic rule in this process is to maintain a precisely set constant angle. Strength is not required here. The main thing is that the bar and the blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of sharpening technique.
What needs to be done to maintain a constant angle?
In order for the angle to have a constant exponent, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the skill of sharpening. The angle indicator can be controlled using a conventional marker. They should paint over the carts and after several sharpening cycles, see how much the paint has survived. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not well processed.
If the knife being sharpened is decorative, then the blade should be sealed with adhesive tape so that only the edge for cutting remains open. Even if you unsuccessfully direct your hand, there will be no scratches on the blade.
It is also important that the direction of the blade along the bar is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. In fact, this is quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.
The abrasive particles of the bar can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will not be useful when cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge can break off altogether.
It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two blade lengths. It is acceptable that the diamond bar be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of leading the blade beyond the device. It might hurt him side surface or a blade.
Homemade knife sharpeners come in a variety of designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is the availability the right material and tool skills.
The principle of operation of such a device as manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a bar fixed at the right angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpener horizontally and holding the knife at just the right angle.
In order to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden rail, sandpaper and a pair of lamb bots. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate
To make a knife holder, you need to cut off part of the material. So that the bar does not touch the holder when sharpening, it is necessary to clean its edge at an angle with emery.
Need to mark and cut off the top vertical rack, which will serve as a support for the bar. The angle is chosen two times less than the one with which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives, it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.
A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, the drawings of which are obviously drawn up, involves the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the subsequent installation of the transverse support will affect the height indicator. After that, all the details are cut off, and the edges are cleaned.
Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that fix the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the fixture, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is fixed with bolts.
Vertical posts are attached with screws. The moment that the load on the bottom is small is also taken into account. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal bar is attached in exactly the same way. The grinder is almost ready. It remains to make a bar.
For its manufacture, a rail is cut desired length. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive. To optimize the result, you can resort to the manufacture of several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. In order to protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.
As a result, it turns out homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. During operation, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.
A do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine can also be of a different type. In this case, it is based on threaded rod M8. Two large washers and nuts were used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.
Closes the thread. A pair of paper clips hold the rail stand at the correct height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is a beam, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.
How to sharpen planer knives with your own hands
Every owner who has a planer or planer, probably faced the problem of sharpening their knives. Buying new ones from time to time is expensive. Knives can be easily sharpened by hand. In this case, specialized machines are used, or if it is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself planer knife sharpening machine
To sharpen the planer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in the garage or on the plot.
Many are interested in how to make a machine for sharpening knives with their own hands. To make a device, you need to find certain parts. Perhaps these parts are lying around in your shed or garage. They can also be purchased online.
The machine for sharpening planer knives with your own hands consists of:
- faceplates;
- table;
- engine;
- vacuum cleaner;
- casing.
First of all, you should find a faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. It is she who is responsible for the sharpening process. Jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate serves as a guarantor of complete and safe sharpening. This part will have to be bought new, but the rest can be used old.
It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. The average cost of a part is 25,000 rubles.
The next step is to find the engine, the power of which should be 1-1.5 kW. It is not necessary to buy it. Any will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone will surely have a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.
The main steps in the manufacture of the device
When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be comfortable.
For reliable protection the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one cut corner. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.
On the bottom surface of the table in the area of sharpening, a hole is made of the same diameter as that of a vacuum cleaner hose. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is desirable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.
What do you need to know?
Mounting the motor under the faceplate base is optional. You can make sure that the parts are connected by means of a belt. In this case, the design will be complex.
A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.
Ice screw sharpening
The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, all cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.
For fishermen, a quality ice drill is a great pride. Often, true competitions are held on water bodies in terms of the speed of drilling ice holes. And victory does not always smile at young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported devices. There are times when experienced anglers equipped with simple tools Soviet production. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct setting of the device. Beginner anglers, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye as their knives become blunt. The smallest grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.
Sharpening of devices is carried out by the most different ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional is. In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made devices.
Homemade ice drill machine: what is needed to make it?
For the manufacture of such a device as a knife sharpening machine, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But she is very hard to bend.
Progress
First you need to make the body of the device. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed against the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.
After making the arc from the same steel strip, the pressure plate is bent, which serves as a lock for the sharpened knives.
Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having pulled the body and pressure plate together with a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their fit to the surface of the end face of the emery circle.
If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives stand correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the arc of the body on both sides.
Sharpening of knives is carried out better on which rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip your knives in the water more often. This will help prevent overheating of the steel.
Minus the device
The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different angles of the cutting chamfer. But each manufacturer of ice drills offers its own models. In this case suitable universal device.
Making a universal fixture for sharpening an ice drill
The universal design allows sharpening knives at any angle of the cutting edge. By smoothly changing the angle between the shoulders of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, it is possible to fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.
To manufacture this device, you need to find a door canopy with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the shoulders of the canopy. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).
From a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm, a fixing plate is made with a slot for the fixing screw. The plate and screw are welded to the shoulders of the canopy.
It happens that sharpening of knives is carried out, the location of the holes of which does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the shoulders for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has more versatility.
How are planer knives sharpened?
Attachments such as planers and thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. By means of them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. Knives of these devices, like any others, become dull. If you use them often, then the best way out is to sharpen knives for planer with your own hands. For the manufacture of grinding equipment at home, you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.
The knife holder can be made from a wooden block. Having done through circular saw cuts at 45 degrees, you can sharpen knives with a tape grinder or a large bar. If the latter is not present, then smooth surface sandpaper is attached from metal, wood, chipboard or glass.
Knife holders can be made from improvised materials. The best solution would be to use metal corners that have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be equal to 45 degrees. Using screws, you can fix the knives with a second corner.
Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, for a hairdressing machine and others. This article talks about how to make a knife sharpening machine at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.
Often, when sharpening knives at home, households use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, then the blade remains dull.
Scheme of the location of the block to the blade.
Before the direct manufacture of the machine, you need to listen to the advice from the sharpeners.
When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:
Defines the angle between the working area of the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model, the angles are different;
The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the bar. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade rubs against the bar should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in such a situation is equal to half the sharpening;
Typically, the angle is 25 degrees;
The locksmith starts processing from the beginning of the foot blade;
When adjusting the grinding angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.
As a rule, after sharpening, the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, with self-processing, the “reference point” should not be the sharp part of the knife.
The choice of whetstones for sharpening a knife
The main indicator of a bar is granularity.
The block is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you must select the desired bars.
When self-sharpening knives, the household uses these types of bars
which have a high grain size. By using such bars, the shape of the foot blade is corrected.
with medium grain. With the help of such bars, the locksmith removes the grooves that form during the initial processing of the knife.
whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the locksmith polishes the blade.
When processing knives for the kitchen, two types can be used - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.
Base
When making a grinding machine at home, you can use various details. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment cases.
When building a machine at home, the household performs the following actions:
Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, the machine will not be able to sharpen cutting devices and tools. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel corners measuring 20x20 mm;
Further, he cuts 2 parts from plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and a height of 230 mm. When cutting, the locksmith makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they eventually turn out to be straight and fit the markup;
Installs between the inclined walls on the sides 3 parts - an inclined surface made of plywood of such dimensions 230 x 150 mm.
In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are on the side on a rectangular surface.
The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface with a size of 40 mm is formed in the front;
Then, along the side wall ends, the locksmith marks 2 lines with a thickness gauge. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;
Drills the ends of the inclined surface and for some time connects the details of the base;
Behind the construction locksmith connects side walls using a bar 60x60 mm, which is attached to the end with two screws from 2 sides; - makes a 10 mm gap in the bar.
In such a situation, it recedes 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, it is first drilled with a non-thick drill from 2 edges, and then expands;
Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings-futors are screwed into the slot, and in the fittings - a stud 10 mm in size, the length of which is 250 mm.
If the threads do not match the studs, the lower futorka is adjusted.
Handpiece device
In the manufacture of the handpiece device, the following actions are performed:
Removes an even inclined part from the base, refines it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as a clamp of the device used;
He measures 40 mm from the edge in front and, using a garden saw, cuts a groove at this mark, the depth of which is 2 mm;
Using a shoe knife, the top 2 veneered layers are chipped from the end of the board. The result is a sample in which the locksmith inserts a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common surface;
The armrest has in its composition 2 strips of steel with dimensions of 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal marginal indents, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.
With the help of bolts, it tightens the slats along the slots made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;
Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of sagging and grinds the plate until it has a smooth surface;
Attaches a small reciprocal bar to the edge sample, transfers the slots with a drill and fixes the handpiece with bolts.
fixing device
Second important detail a handpiece is considered a clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.
L-shaped bar measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves of which is 50 mm (upper);
Reciprocal plate in the form of a rectangle measuring 50x100 mm (lower).
In the manufacture clamping bar The machine operator does the following:
Sets the bottom bar to far edge top;
Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;
Screws in 8mm bolts on 2 sides. In a similar situation, the hat of the near bolt is located near the top bar;
Welds the caps of the bolts to the plates and pre-grinds until roundness is formed;
Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thickness gauge;
Makes along the edges at the bottom and at the top one 8 mm slot in 25 mm;
Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and makes a cut with an allowance with an electric jigsaw. File expands the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;
It fastens the planks by means of a groove, which is in the board, tightens the top bolt with a nut and, thus, firmly fastens the plank.
Then tighten the connection 2 with a nut;
When pressing the lower bar (in the niche of the base), he screws a wing nut onto the second bolt.
Sharpening angle control
When adjusting the sharpening angle, the locksmith performs the following actions:
On the hairpin, which is located in the bar of the machine base, throws big puck and tighten the nut.
The rod does not turn in the futorka makes a block for adjusting the grinding angle from a small carbolite bar, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.
At 15 mm from the block edge, it drills a 20 mm end from 2 sides, widens the gap to 9 mm, then makes a thread inside;
50 mm retreats from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. This slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the locksmith strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;
Screws the block onto the spire - sets the desired eye height without the use of fixing screws;
Fastens the block from 2 sides with M10 hex nuts.
The use of interchangeable blocks and the manufacture of the carriage
In the manufacture of a grinding carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:
Welds 30 cm M10 threaded studs with a smooth rod, the thickness of which is 10 mm;
Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness of which is 20 mm. In all the bars in the center and on top, 20 mm recedes from the edge, and then makes a gap 10 mm wide;
Screws a wing nut onto the bar, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and a washer;
Between the bars, he clamps rectangular grinding stones or makes several interchangeable grinding stones.
As a block base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;
It sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit with Super Moment glue.
The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on 1 of the bars you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polishing to the blades.
A simple homemade machine
The most common version of the machine design are 2 pairs of wooden rails, which are fastened together with screws. Between such parts, the machine operator sets the bar.
The main reason for the popularity of the usemanual homemade machine for sharpening various knives is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move along the workbench.
When fixing the bar, the locksmith uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.
However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:
The master exposes the blade to the stone manually. With prolonged work, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;
In the manufacture of such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly fixed on the workbench;
In the process of work, the screeds weaken and the location of the bar changes.
Another advantage of such a scheme is the ease of manufacture. Such a machine design is more often used when sharpening knives for a jointer and for the kitchen.
Wooden slats can be of various thicknesses. At self-manufacturing a simple grinding machine, you can use various improvised components.
During the initial study of all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.
How to make a knife sharpening machine
There are two main reasons why buying a factory sharpener is not an option. Firstly, the purchase of an inexpensive device made in China, in further operation, will not provide the product with the sharpness of the proper quality.
Branded copies can be a solution to this problem, but a significant drawback is the cost. There is no opportunity or just a desire to shell out a tidy sum for a device, then you can make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. There is no need to develop new designs, create your creation based on already existing models. DIY knife sharpening machine different types with detailed instructions.
We imitate a sharpener model from Lansky
This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of two metal corners connected to each other. The sharpening angle is determined by the hole into which the needle is inserted, at the end of which there is a nozzle.
Of the options considered, this one is the least user-friendly, but not easy to manufacture. Let's improve the device, try to make a device for sharpening knives with a wider range of degrees of pressure angle.
We take ordinary metal plates,
whose dimensions are 4x11 cm. Or more, all the same, during operation, the parts will be filed and adjusted to the desired parameters.
With the help of a grinder, sharp corners are removed at the ends of the parts (sides that act as clamps). Using a file, grind the edges of the clamps, you should get a smooth bevel from the middle of the base to the edges of the plates.
According to the drawing, we make markings for future holes. We drill them and cut the thread. We round off all sharp edges and corners on the plates with a file (not only for the sake of nobility appearance, but also for the sake of comfortable use, so that nothing crashes into your hands).
We purchase a standard aluminum corner, and make holes in it in accordance with the drawing above. In the holes intended for the entry of the stud, we cut the thread. And the hole that is intended to support the spokes must be expanded with a needle file.
Next, you need two cuts of a metal rod
about 15 cm long. We insert them into the extreme holes and fix the entry depth with two nuts of the appropriate diameter. In our case, these elements are equal to the size of M6. We screw a bolt (length about 14 cm) in size M8 into a hole of a larger diameter, on which a wing nut is already screwed, and on top of it a pair of ordinary, but larger diameter than the bolt itself. It will be used as a support post for the structure. The remaining holes are for bolts, which will be used to adjust the clamping force of the blade.
Nuts are strung on the ends of the rods, then corners are put on, which are again pressed with nuts. By lowering them up or down, we can adjust the required sharpening angle.
The element that will hold the blade for sharpening is assembled from a thin metal rod (in the shape of the letter “G”), two holders (the last one with a through hole for the knitting needle), a wing nut and an M6 threaded rod.
We imitate a sharpener model from Spyderco
This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of a plastic horizontal holder with several holes. And each nest has its own angle of inclination.
Of all the options that will be considered, this one has the most low level sharpening quality. The problem is that the blade will be pressed manually, unlike the first option, without additional fixation on the support. But despite this, this device for sharpening knives is quite suitable for domestic use, and plus - it is very simple in terms of manufacturing.
In the process of work, we need two wooden bars with dimensions 6x4x30 cm, two bolts and wing nuts with dimensions M6 or M8, two thin knitting needles (curved in the shape of the letter “L”).
Of the tools you need a hacksaw blade, a chisel and a hammer, a file with sandpaper, a school protractor and a drill.
With a conventional conveyor
we apply markings with the required angle of inclination. We take the canvas and file the first mark on one of the parts. It is not necessary to go deeper than the width of the canvas itself.
We turn the hacksaw over and insert it with the blunt side into the sawn slot. We apply the second part from above and make sure that both the edges of the elements themselves and the markings on them match. Next, we saw through all the remaining lines in the same way.
We apply a chisel to the excess wood that needs to be removed. With a hammer, tap lightly on the top of the chisel and knock out small chips. When the bulk of the wood is removed, we bring the site to the required evenness with a file.
We drill holes for the entry of bolts and spokes as shown in the figure. Using fine grit sandpaper, smooth the edges of the holes, the corners of the parts and their entire surface.
We thread bolts into larger holes, then we string ordinary nuts and tighten them tighter. In smaller ones, locking needles pass (necessary so that the canvases do not move down during operation). We insert the canvases themselves into the grooves and press them against the second half of the product. We fix everything at the end with a pair of wing nuts.
We imitate a sharpener model from Apex
This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of a fairly massive device with a stand and a platform placed on it at an angle, a rod is mounted on the side, on which the end of the nozzle rests. This type of grinding device, despite its dimensions, in comparison with the previous ones, is the most successful.
It is easy to use and the quality of sharpening is high. In addition, making such a knife sharpener with your own hands is very simple.
To work, we need the following:
- (not a whole, even a quarter is enough);
- magnet (with slots for bolts, if it is not possible to drill them yourself);
- metal rod M6 or M8;
- Not large sizes wooden block;
- a small piece of plexiglass;
- two bolts and three wing nuts;
- 10 self-tapping screws;
- 4 rubber feet;
- saw;
- drill;
- ceramic clips (or wood blanks).
First you need to cut three small blanks from chipboard sheet. Dimensions of the first: 37x12 cm. Dimensions of the second: 30x8 cm, measuring 6 cm from the edge on the longer side, we drill a hole. Dimensions of the third: 7x8 cm. We saw off an element 8 cm long from the bar (section 4x2 cm).
Drilling in section two through holes perpendicular to each other. The first at a distance of 3 cm from one edge, the second at the same distance from the other. Starting from the edge of the bar and up to the very hole, we cut out a bunch of wood 1 cm thick. At the cut of plexiglass, the following parameters are: 6x12 cm. A slot is drilled along the middle of the canvas.
We take the first largest blank
from chipboard and drill holes in the corners for the future legs of the product. At a distance of 4 cm from its edge, we put the smallest workpiece perpendicularly and connect them together using 2 self-tapping screws.
On the top of a small workpiece, we put the edge of a medium-sized part and again connect them with 2 self-tapping screws. The hole in the middle part should be closer to the top of the smaller one. The free edge of a medium-sized workpiece is rigidly attached to the site of a large part, again with the help of 2 self-tapping screws.
Using a drill, we drill a shallow depression on medium-sized parts. It should be located almost on the very edge of its highest point, and the dimensions correspond to the parameters of the magnet.
We mount the magnet inside (so that it does not rise above the level of the surface of the plank) and fix it with small self-tapping screws.
We put a piece of plexiglass on a medium-sized board, so that their hole and slot coincide with each other. We pass a bolt through them with a washer put on it and screw the nut from below.
A hole is drilled on the free edge of the largest chipboard part with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the iron rod. The rod itself is fixed with two nuts: a regular one and a lamb. So that they do not crash into the surface of the board, we separate them with washers.
A blank from a bar is wound onto a fixed rod.
A bolt is inserted into the hole to which the cut was made, screwed with a nut from the outside. Tightening the lamb, we fix the part at a certain height of the rod, release it - move up and down freely. The sharpening angle is regulated precisely with the help of this bar (raise or lower along the rod).
The element for clamping the grinding blade is assembled from a cut of a metal rod of two ceramic or wooden blanks and 4 nuts with washers. They are strung in the same order as in the photo. At the very end, rubber feet are screwed for greater stability of the product.
We have considered three various options sharpening devices. And each of them has its pros and cons. You should choose a particular option based on your needs, as well as skills in a similar work plan.
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