An unpretentious perennial, astilbe grows well in open ground. What is astilbe afraid of? The bigger, the better

If there is an unfilled area in your garden, it doesn’t matter whether it’s a flowerbed, a place on alpine slide or under a tree, or maybe just an empty container, plant astilbe there and you won’t regret it at all. Now we'll tell you why.

This is what astilbe looks like in the garden. Astilbe flower - description and varieties of plant Astilbe came to Russia from East Asia or Japan and adapted to our climate so much that it learned to tolerate severe frosts in winter and high temperatures in summer. The only thing this plant could not refuse was the presence of moisture in the same amount as in its natural habitat (shady forest or stream bank). Astilbe is a herbaceous perennial that forms a powerful, beautiful, sometimes multi-colored clump that dies off in the winter and grows again in the spring from its rhizomes. The height of the plant varies - from 15 cm to 2 m. The basal leaves have a beautiful carved shape and are red-green or dark green. The inflorescences are located on a high stem, have a fluffy texture and various shapes: rhombus, panicle, pyramid or downward, drooping branches. Diamond inflorescence Inflorescence panicle Inflorescence pyramid Flowering in all varieties of astilbe lasts approximately 1 month, but at different times: early bloomers bloom in June, medium flowering - in July, late - in August. Previously, these flowers were only white, pink-lilac or purple. Nowadays there is such a variety of colors and shades in the assortment that it is simply impossible not to be interested in astilbe and it is definitely worth growing it in open ground, especially since it’s easy and pleasant to do. The ease and pleasantness lies in the fact that the plant reproduces well, rarely gets sick and is almost not affected by pests. Where is the best place to plant astilbe? When choosing a place to plant astilbe, you need to consider three factors: The plant can live in one place for up to 15 – 20 years. It is growing quickly. In sunny places the flowering period is shorter. In regions with a cool climate and frequent rains, astilbe can be planted in open areas and alpine hills. In hot places, astilbe plantings should be given partial shade. This is especially important for medium-flowering specimens, since their flowering period coincides with the highest temperatures. Astilbe that blooms in June–July and August–September can be planted in the sun, since peak temperatures will not affect the duration of flowering of these species. But in this case you will have to pay special attention to watering it. Astiba plantings along the edge of an artificial reservoir look extremely beautiful! In addition, plants will really like the proximity of water. In any place it is necessary to prepare fertile light soil and provide sufficient watering and mulching. Planting time depends on the chosen propagation method. How to grow astilbe at home Breeding astilbe is completely simple. It reproduces best vegetatively: dividing an adult bush into parts, renewal buds. Growing astilbe from seeds is also possible, but it has one nuance that should be discussed separately. The problem is that specimens grown from collected seeds do not retain the qualities of the mother plants. Experience shows that the following changes are possible: difference in color, most often pale pink, loss of decorativeness (pomp) of the brush, shortening the flowering period. There is no need to completely abandon this method of growing astilbe, but for this you need to use only selection seed material. Growing astilbe from seeds Sowing seeds You can sow seeds either as seedlings or directly into the ground, the main thing to remember is that the seed material needs stratification. If you choose the method of sowing in the ground, it is better to do it in the fall. To do this, fence the prepared area with boards or flexible borders, distribute the seeds over the surface of the soil, lightly sprinkle with earth and cover with covering material. Over the winter, the process of stratification will take place, and the seeds will sprout vigorously. In apartment conditions, it will take 3 weeks to stratify the seeds. At this time, the seeds mixed with peat or sand and moistened are placed in the refrigerator at a temperature no higher than +4 - +6 degrees. Then, in early - mid-March, they are sown in containers for germination in warmth and light. Shoots appear in 2 – 3 weeks. Seedling care When 2–3 true leaves appear, the seedlings need to be picked into separate cups. Caring for astilbe at this time is very simple - timely watering and protection from direct sunlight. Planting seedlings in the ground Usually 2–3 months pass between sowing astilbe and planting it in open ground. The best time for planting is the onset of stable warm temperatures. The plant is not capricious, takes root well and grows quickly. Flowering occurs in the 2nd – 3rd year of life. Planting astilbe in the ground with rhizomes Most often, astilbe is grown from rhizomes. Moreover, their sale begins long before the start of the planting season and ends quickly, since the plant is very popular. How to store rhizomes purchased in advance? If the rhizome is still dormant, you can store it in the refrigerator and plant it in open ground as soon as possible. If a sprout has already appeared, then you need to place it in a container with soil and place it in a bright but cool place. Sometimes such specimens still form peduncles in containers. You can leave them, since astilbe is a strong plant and can tolerate both replanting and flowering at the same time. Awakened astilbe rhizome Before planting, rhizomes purchased or stored in winter must be thoroughly inspected and dry or damaged parts removed. If the rhizome was very dry, then you need to wrap it in a napkin soaked in epin for 6 hours. The planting hole is prepared taking into account the size of the rhizome, that is, for each individual: the main thing is that the roots are distributed evenly, the depth is sufficient, and the growing point is above the ground. The soil should be fertile and light. One handful of bone meal and ash, 25 - 30 g, is poured into the bottom of the pit. mineral fertilizers, humus, mix everything, add water. After this, the rhizome is placed there, buried and mulched with a layer of peat at least 3–5 cm thick. Planting rhizomes in the ground The distance between plants depends on their variety and purpose of planting. For example, when creating a border from tall astilbes, a distance of 50 cm is maintained, but in any case, it should not be less than 30 cm. How to care for astilbe in spring and summer As mentioned above, the leaves and stems of astilbe die off in the winter and grow back in the spring. In order for the plant to quickly gain green mass, it is necessary to feed it with mineral fertilizers in the spring. high content nitrogen. During flowering, astilbe needs phosphorus fertilizing so that the brushes are lush and bloom for as long as possible. And closer to autumn, it’s time to apply potassium fertilizers to help the rhizomes prepare for winter. The main care for astilbe during the warm period is regular watering, since the plant does not tolerate a lack of moisture. On particularly hot days, it is advisable to water even 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening. Periodic mulching will not only help retain moisture, but also protect against weeds, and also create a warm shelter for the rhizomes before winter. Before mulching, the soil must be loosened, then spread a layer of mulch and loosened again. It is better to repeat this procedure three times per season. Mulching with pebbles Mulching with wood chips Astilbe has one peculiarity - it seems to rise from the ground due to vertical growth. Because of this, young roots and buds are too close to the surface and can overheat or dry out. In this situation it is necessary adding fertile soil. In the spring, you also need to check the plantings and add bedding where it is required. Astilbe transplant. In open ground, astilbes multiply very quickly and they have to be periodically divided and replanted. Some varieties require this procedure every 3 to 4 years, but most require it every five years. If the transplant is scheduled for spring, then you need to wait for stable warmth and the possibility of providing frequent watering. At any other time, even during the flowering period, transplants are successful, the main thing is to ensure abundant watering for two weeks after this. Late-flowering astilbes, transplanted in March, bloom at their appointed time - in August - early September. So you can confidently undertake the transplant and be confident of success! 3 ways to propagate astilbe There are three methods of propagating astilbe: Seeds By dividing the rhizome Kidney renewal 1 way. Propagation by seeds As we have already discussed, not the most The best way. Collected seeds They are not suitable for sowing, as they do not retain maternal qualities. Good breeding planting material can only be purchased from the most reliable suppliers. The process of growing astilbe from seeds is long and labor-intensive, because the seeds require stratification, seedlings require diving and care at home, as well as increased watering after planting in open ground, etc. In addition, the plant blooms only in the third year. But the higher the reward! Propagation by seeds. Method 2. Dividing the bush This is a favorite method among gardeners, as it always gives good results. The best time for this is early spring, but provided there is sufficient moisture and warmth. You can divide astilbe even during flowering. Purchasing cuttings with flowering clusters allows you to see all the features of the future bush and determine its flowering period. The survival rate of such plants is good if proper care is provided (ample watering, loosening, mulching). The division procedure is as follows: The mother bush is carefully dug up. The rhizome is cut into pieces 3–5 cm long with 2–3 buds. The sections are sprinkled wood ash and dry. Getting ready planting pits or furrows, fertile soil and fertilizers are added, everything is watered. The divisions are placed at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other (depending on the variety, up to 50 cm) They are buried so that the growth buds are above the surface. Mulch with a layer of 3–5 cm. Further care for astilbe consists of abundant watering, application of fertilizers according to periods of plant development, mulching and loosening. Astilbes obtained by dividing the bush in the spring can bloom in the fall. Dividing the bush. 3 way. Kidney renewal This is how astilbe is propagated in early spring when the first shoots appear. To do this, you do not need to dig up the rhizome, but you just need to separate the bud and root with a sharp knife. You can take several buds from one mother bush, but no more than a third. The cut site needs to be treated with ash and the astilbe planted for rooting in a greenhouse. The soil should be light, fertile, with a film cover on top. Here the young plants will remain until autumn or next spring. As a rule, rooting proceeds without complications. You can plant it in open ground in autumn or early spring and soon you can expect the young bush to bloom. Reproduction by renewal buds Astilbe in garden design Astilbe is indispensable in garden design. It is always decorative: in the spring the first tender carved leaves unfurl, in summer the inflorescences open and the wind shakes the soft fluffy panicles, in the fall the inflorescences are replaced by no less beautiful boxes with seeds, after flowering ends, the curtain works for itself and becomes simply luxurious. However, in order for it to always look well-groomed, you need to remove dead stems in a timely manner. Pruning astilbe in early spring There are many options for using astilbe in landscaping. This flower is especially beautiful, since this is its native environment, and it has the opportunity to unfold in all its charm. Tall astilbes can be used to make and divide the area into zones. They are beautiful both in single plantings and in group plantings. The best compositions are obtained with the same beautiful plants, preferring partial shade, such as bergenia, hosta, heuchera, fern, etc. In regions with a cool climate, it is good to plant astilbe in a flower bed along with tulips, bells, irises, etc. Here our flower will feel great on an alpine hill, surrounded by saxifrages and tenacious plants. Low-growing astilbes are planted in containers together with geraniums and petunia, used in outdoor flowerpots, planted next to garden figurines and make borders out of them. Astilbe border Flowering period different varieties astilbe lasts from June to September, so you can safely create for a long time blooming flower bed only from the collection of these beautiful plants and from them to collect a bouquet of dried flowers for the winter. Diseases and pests Astilbe is one of the few plants that almost never gets sick. Most pests are indifferent to it. But there are still some that attack this flower, for example, pennitsa. It is also called the slobbering pennitsa, since the insect finds a secluded place in the axils of astilbe leaves, secretes foamy contents and lays larvae there. Soon the leaves begin to wrinkle, turn yellow and dry out. If measures are not taken, the plant may wither. Slobbery pennies. It is easy to spot the pennix, as its nest looks like foaming juice or a clot of saliva. If such lesions are isolated, then it is better to destroy the nests manually. If the situation gets out of control, then you need to use insecticides: kinmiks, actellik, akarin, etc. Occasionally, but still, astilbe is damaged by the strawberry nematode. You can try to compete for the plant by carrying out 2 - 3 sprayings with an interval of 3 - 5 days mercaptophos, heterophos, phosphamtide. Signs of nematode damage But most often such plants are disposed of. Preparing for winter Astilbes tolerate our harsh winters well. Preparation for wintering involves applying potassium fertilizers and mulching the soil around the plant. It is better not to trim the leaves. They will create additional shelter for the rhizomes. You don’t even have to remove the flower stalks if they look decorative. In winter, this will be an additional decoration for your garden and a reminder that spring will certainly come. And with spring comes concerns about filling your site with interesting, beautiful and easy-to-care plants. Astilbe is exactly such a flower. Invite her into your garden and you will never regret it! Continuation of the topic:

Name astilbe

Derived from Greek words"a" - very, "stilbe" - shine. Given, probably, for the shiny leaves.

Astilbe description

The genus includes over 30 species, distributed in East Asia, Japan and North America. In Russia there are only 2 species (on Far East and Kunashir Island). In nature, they grow in deciduous forests, along the banks of streams, in places where moisture is retained in the summer.

Astilbes tolerate cold winters well under a layer of snow, for example, in Canada, according to official data, they go north to zones 3b-4a (according to the American classification), where the temperature in winter drops to -37 ° C.

These are perennial rhizomatous herbaceous plants with the above-ground part dying off in the winter. The stems are erect, height depending on the species - from 8 to 200 cm. Numerous basal leaves on long petioles, double or triple pinnate, less often simple, dark green or reddish green, jagged.

Small flowers, white, pink, lilac, red or purple, are collected in apical inflorescences - panicles of varying lengths. They bloom in June - July. The fruit is a capsule. There are up to 20,000 seeds in 1 g. Astilbes are most spectacular during flowering. Their delicate inflorescences appear in early July and do not lose their attractiveness for 25-35 days.

The rhizome of astilbe is dense or loose, depending on the type, woody. Every year, daughter buds are formed in the upper part of the rhizome, and its lower part gradually dies off; the vertical growth of astilbe is 3-5 cm per year. Therefore, at the end of autumn, fertile soil is added to the base of the bushes. Besides, caring for astilbe consists mainly of maintaining soil moisture.

Astilbe inflorescences

They can be pyramidal, rhombic, paniculate, but drooping ones are especially graceful. The decorative effect of the inflorescences depends on their density. Small flowers collected in elongated panicles. The flower petals of some varieties are short, and the inflorescences are airy and lacy, as if covered with small buds; in other varieties, the petals are elongated, and these inflorescences look soft and fluffy.

It is very beautiful when there are several colors or shades in the inflorescence (varieties “Peach and Cream”, “Montgomery”, “White Wings”). Taking into account the structure of the inflorescences, the entire variety of species is divided into groups: pyramidal in shape - the lateral branches of the inflorescences extend from the main axis almost at a right angle and evenly decrease from the base to the top of the inflorescence; rhombic shape - inflorescences resemble a rhombus. Lateral branches extend from the main axis under acute angle.

Rhombic inflorescences more often found in varieties of Japanese astilbe; paniculate - inflorescences have numerous branched branches extending from the main axis at an acute angle and uniformly decreasing towards the apex. This form is characteristic of most varieties of Arends astilbe; drooping form - inflorescences with flexible drooping branches. Drooping inflorescences have varieties derived from Astilbe Thunberg and Lemoine.

According to the timing of flowering, astilbes are also distinguished into early (blooming in late June - early July), medium (in July) and late (blooming in August). The height of astilbe varies from 15 cm (variety “Lilliput”) to 2 m (astilbe David). According to the height of the bush, plants are divided into low - 15-60 cm tall, medium - 60-80 cm and high - 80-200 cm.

There are about 10 species in culture. Selection gave gardeners whole line hybrid varieties. All astilbes are moisture-loving, winter-hardy, and resistant to pests and diseases.

Astilbe growing conditions

Optimal illumination is sparse shade or shading during the hottest time of the day. However, the nature of cultivars is more flexible and many varieties have “forgotten” the conditions in which their wild relatives live. Indeed, many astilbes feel great in the open sun. Flowering here is more abundant, but shorter, and the foliage is slightly lighter.

When choosing a location, flowering timing is very important. Early and late varieties bloom well and for a long time both in the shade and in the sun, but for mid-flowering plants it is better to look for shaded corners, since the bright July sun sharply shortens their flowering time.

Most astilbe varieties can grow in areas with fairly high groundwater and even tolerates stagnant water. Astilbe does not tolerate long-term drought. Poor soil, open sun and lack of rain can destroy the plant. In such cases, astilbes need to be watered twice a day - early in the morning or in the evening.

Fertile soil, thickened planting, and mulching with shavings or bark will also help the plants. Astilbes do not tolerate overheating of the upper part of the rhizome very well, and mulch helps reduce overheating, moisture loss, maintains soil looseness, prevents the appearance of weeds and, most importantly, creates favorable conditions for wintering. In flower beds, it is best to mulch plants immediately after planting, covering the entire surface of the soil mulch in a layer of 5 cm.

Some astilbes tolerate relatively dry soils well - a. x arendsii "Federsee", a.korcana, well-grown bushes of a.chinensis "Superba", "Purpurlance". And there are those that can grow on heavy clay soils - these are representatives of the group of Chinese hybrids - x chinensis “Pumila”, “Visions”, “Vision in Pink”, “Vision in Red”.

It is important that astilbes have enough phosphorus and potassium in the root layer of soil. We sprinkle 1-2 handfuls of bone meal and 25-30 g of complex fertilizers in transverse furrows (1 m long) into the breeding beds.

When planting in a flower garden, holes are dug 20-30 cm deep and wide, 1-2 handfuls of bone meal and ash, 25-30 g of mineral fertilizers (norm per sq.m.) are poured into them, humus is added. All this is mixed and poured with water. The planted sections are covered with mulch in a layer of 3 cm.

IN favorable conditions astilbes grow quickly. Astilbes are divided and replanted every 4-5 years, especially those that grow quickly after 3-4 years. This is due to the rapid vertical growth of the rhizome. Gradually, the old bushes stick out too much, the young roots located at the base of the buds end up at the very surface and quickly dry out, which is why the duration and quality of flowering is greatly reduced - there are fewer flower stalks, the inflorescences are smaller.

However, in principle, astilbes can grow in one place for a long time, up to 15-20 years. To maintain the decorative appearance of old plants, you should take care of fertilizer annually. Astilbes are fed first in the spring after regrowth (nitrogen fertilizers predominate), then immediately after flowering or in the fall (with potassium and phosphorus - 20-25 g per plant). You should carefully loosen the soil and then mulch again.

Astilbe propagation

By seeds, germinating buds of renewal, by dividing the rhizome. With the help of seeds, astilbe species are most often propagated, varieties - only for breeding purposes. The fact is that seedlings are characterized by polymorphism - the characteristics of the mother plants are only partially preserved or are completely lost.

Astilbe seeds very small. They set well, but do not always have time to ripen. If the seeds are still ripe, they are shaken out of the inflorescences in September. And in March-April they are sown superficially in boxes filled with a mixture of sphagnum peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1.

Seed germination is low. Shoots appear after 3-4 weeks, grow slowly and only at the end of the year form a small rosette of leaves. If the astilbes do not crowd each other, it is better to replant them next spring. Plants grown from seeds bloom in the 3rd year.

Reproduction of astilbe by buds

In early spring, a renewal bud with part of the rhizome is cut out from the astilbe (the “heel” propagation method). It is believed that up to 1/3 of the buds can be removed without harm to the queen cell. Rooting is carried out in greenhouses. The substrate used is the same as for sowing. It is poured in a 5-7 cm layer on ordinary fertile soil. On permanent place astilbes are planted in the spring of next year. In the same year, the plants bloom. It is possible, but propagation by green cuttings in early spring is difficult.

Reproduction of astilbe by dividing the bush

This method of reproduction is the most familiar and widely used. The cuttings are prepared so that each one has 1-3 buds and a rhizome 3-5 cm long, preferably with adventitious roots. Experiments have shown that the size of the division is not significant, since most varieties propagate equally well in small and large (3-10 times larger) divisions.

Division is best done in early spring, then by autumn the astilbes will bloom. You can replant at almost any time, provided good watering within a few days. Astilbes also take root well during flowering, this allows the buyer not to buy a “pig in a poke”, but to choose exactly what he needs.

And the seller will avoid possible charges, just as this often happens when selling, for example, daylilies, which show themselves in all their glory only in the second or third year after planting.

Planting astilbe

Astilbes can be replanted at any time during the growing season, even at the time of flowering, but they need to be watered for 2-3 weeks after replanting. It has been established that in the conditions of Lithuania (southern Baltic states) the most best time The month for planting this crop is May. The growth of transplanted plants is highly dependent on warmth and moisture in the spring. If any of these factors are missing, astilbes do not take root well.

In flower beds, astilbes are planted at a distance of no less than 30 cm (high varieties - 50 cm), in borders - 30-50 cm. For propagation purposes, astilbes can be planted in furrows or on ridges. We plant them on ridges 1 m wide, in transverse grooves 15-30 cm apart, with 6-7 plants in each, i.e. 23 or 46 plants per 1 m2.

Sprinkle 30-40 g of complex mineral fertilizers, in which nitrogen does not exceed 10%, into the furrow. Most often this is Kemira-Horti-2 fertilizer, which is good for most ornamental perennials. You can also use a mixture of simple mineral fertilizers, observing the nitrogen ratio.

Diseases and pests of astilbe

Astilbe practically does not suffer from anything; it is occasionally affected by slobbering pennies, strawberry and root-knot nematodes. The larvae of the slobbering frog live in their foamy secretions located in the axils of the leaves. They feed on leaves, weakening the growth and development of flower stalks. The easiest way to deal with pennies is manually.

The strawberry nematode affects the buds and leaves; it can only be gotten rid of by completely destroying the diseased plants. The root-knot nematode lives in the roots, causing the formation of galls on them. You can fight it by destroying diseased roots.

Use of astilbe

Astilbes are wonderful plants for landscaping. They can be planted in monogroups near bushes. And single inclusions of astilbe look especially elegant among plantings of ornamental conifers, although in its natural habitat astilbe grows in deciduous forests. Astilbes do best near bodies of water or in moist, semi-shaded areas.

In flower beds, astilbe's traditional neighbors are hostas, ferns, and Siberian iris. However, astilbes also go well with other plants. These are bergenia, heuchera, tiarella cordifolia and Verya, some geraniums, for example blood red, paniculata phlox, and many bells.

Primroses, doronicum, gravilat, iberis, and swimsuit can grow next to astilbe. In the foreground, low-growing perennials blooming in spring look impressive, for example different types saxifrage, as well as saxifrage, jasmine, tenacious, umbilical. You can try planting some types of sedum, for example, white, false.

Vilnius amateur flower growers create borders from astilbe. It's beautiful and not a lot of worries. Astilbes can be used not only to decorate the garden. Inflorescences of many varieties in phase full bloom Suitable for cutting, and dried ones look great in winter bouquets.

Astilbe flowering time

The flowering period for various varieties of astilbe is from late June to September. If you wish, you can choose such a collection to admire almost all summer. After flowering ends, the bushes do not lose their decorative properties due to their beautiful foliage.

Peduncles with seed pods also look neat, and some are very beautiful, for example, tall varieties with lush, dense panicles (“Superba”, “Purpurlance”), with a drooping inflorescence shape: “Moerheimii”, “Betsy Cuperus”.

Usually the seed pods are brown in color, but in some varieties they remain green (“Bridal Veil”) or dark red (“Glow”) for a long time. You can postpone pruning until spring; the foliage will serve as shelter for the winter and hold back snow, and graceful panicles will enliven the winter landscape.

In Holland and Germany, astilbe is used for distillation in March-June. The varieties “Peach Blossom”, “Queen Aleksandra”, “Bronselaub” and many Japanese hybrids are most suitable for this.

IN ancient China astilbe was used as medicinal plant, its roots and leaves have various properties- tonic, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, they were used for skin and kidney diseases. Until now, in Japan and China, its leaves are used to prepare seasoning for meat dishes.

Forcing astilbe

For forcing astilbe, varieties of Japanese hybrid astilbe with compact low growing bush. It is recommended to take young seedlings with 6 - 10 buds, grown from renewal buds, and not obtained by dividing old bushes. Selected plants are planted in pots in the fall the right size, which are placed in a cold greenhouse and covered with spruce branches or peat.

In December - January they are transferred to a room with a temperature of 10 - 14 ° C. When the leaves begin to bloom, the temperature is raised to 16 - 18 ° C, watered and sprayed abundantly and often warm water. But when inflorescences appear, spraying must be stopped. Astilbes bloom 10 - 14 weeks after they are transferred to the greenhouse.

With later transfer dates (February - March), flowering occurs faster. The following varieties are recommended for forcing: Bonn, Cologne, Emdem, Europe, Deutschland, Peach Blossom. Forcing astilbes are used for decorative design public and office premises.

Not all shade-loving plants have luxurious blooms, like a bright spot against the background of dark green foliage. Astilbe differs from its herbaceous shade-tolerant relatives in its lush panicle-shaped inflorescence. The dullness of the leaves gives the plant a special appearance, allowing bright colors show yourself.

About the meaning of the name astilbe and a little history

Astilbe got its name for its inconspicuous matte leaves: “A” - without, negation; “stilba” - shine, it turns out “without shine”. The Scottish botanist Lord Hamilton was the first to include the plant in the herbaceous classification, which now has about 40 species, including perennial and annual varieties.

In nature, it is found along the banks of water bodies, most often growing in deciduous forests, but can grow on the shady slopes of the highlands. The homeland is considered to be East Asia, North America, and the Japanese Islands, where astilbe was first discovered. Wet places done green color dull, inconspicuous, but the inflorescences captivate gardeners.

European gardens became acquainted with the plant thanks to travelers who were looking for interesting, unusual things in different countries. Carl Thunberg and von Siebold brought the flower from Japan along with other exclusive products. The end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries is marked by the development of park culture in Russia; recreation and walks in the fresh air become popular among the population. Having found its use in decorating shady gardens, the banks of ponds, and small artificial reservoirs, astilbe has become popular among landscape designers and florists.

Description of astilbe

How to grow astilbe in the photo Astilbe ‘Bressingham Beauty’ (x arendsii)

Astilbe is a herbaceous perennial, the upper part of which dies off in the winter, and the rhizome remains in the ground. Roots exposed during the summer period need to be covered with an additional layer of soil, and harsh climatic conditions require additional cover with special industrial material or foliage.

The height of the plant ranges from 8 cm to 2 m; you can choose a representative for any flower bed or architectural structure. Miniature dwarf species barely reach 30 cm, their flexible stem forms an arch shape, for which the flower is nicknamed “drooping”. Known varieties with drooping inflorescences are Tenberg and Lemoine. Despite the variety of colors, the choice remains on bright, saturated ones, which will look expressive on the shady side of the garden.

The leaf blade is not uniform, depending on the variety and place of growth. The color can vary from dark green in summer to brown-red in autumn. The leaf is planted on a long petiole, some varieties have a pinnate shape, others have a serrated edge. Most species are represented by a complex leaf structure, consisting of several pointed, heart-shaped leaves.

The underground part of the plant is distinguished by its heterogeneity: there are species with loose soft roots, and some are strong tree-like. Many shoots extend from the central rhizome, the lower ones die off, and new ones form on top. The plant expands its root system upward by 3-5 cm, so in the fall the roots become exposed.

Astilbe in garden design Astilbe Japonica group ‘Europa’ photo of mixborder

An original combination would be planting together with astilbes and hostas, or Volzhanka. You will get a delicate composition with various types paniculate inflorescences. Just an airy mood!

Types and varieties of astilbe with photos and names

Thanks to many years of work Breeders have bred several hundred hybrid varieties of astilbe. There are varietal groups specially developed for warm or cold climate zones. Some species get along well with spreading plants, while others need space. Before choosing seeds, you need to focus on weather conditions climate zone, neighboring plants of the flower bed, degree of watering.

No more than 12 species are popular; Arendsa, Chinese, Japanese, and simple-leaved are suitable for growing in the garden. They don't require special conditions, unpretentious in care.

Astilbe Arendsii Astilbe Arendsii

Created by crossing David's astilbe with others, there are about 40 varieties with a long flowering period. Its inflorescences appear in early July, and the flowering season closes at the end of August. In autumn, it perfectly sets off other trees with dark green foliage. flowering plants. The bushes are powerful, reaching 1 m, with diamond-shaped or paniculate inflorescences. Well-known varieties: Amethyst, Weiss Gloria, Ruby (up to 80 cm), Diamond (up to 1 m).

Chinese astilbe Astilbe chinensis

Chinese astilbe variety Astilbe chinensis ‘Vision in Pink’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is a herbaceous bush more than 1 m with heterogeneous green mass. The lower leaves are wide on long petioles; after flowering they have a neat appearance, filling the flowerbed with a dark green lush mass. From top to inflorescence, the leaves are short with a shiny texture. The stem ends with a 30-35 cm panicle of small, brightly colored flowers. Presented by varieties not only standard height(Purpulans, Pink, Red), but also short (Pumila Hort, up to 15 cm).

Japanese hybrid Astilbe japonica hybrids

Japanese astilbe Astilbe ‘Montgomery’ (japonica hybrid) photo in the garden

A compact plant whose decorative value comes from the green mass of green, shiny leaves. The panicles of inflorescences begin to bloom by mid-June, which is several weeks earlier than other species. Excellent cold resistance has made the species popular in risky climates with unstable temperature conditions. Terry astilbe Montgomery is famous among gardeners; its inflorescences can be bright burgundy or red. There are varieties white shade– Deutschland, pink – Reiland, pale lilac – Europe.

Simple-leaved hybrid astilbe Astilbe simplicifolia

Astilbe simplefolia ‘Hennie Graafland’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is not at all suitable for dry and hot climates, so in the steppe zone, where the sun is scorching, the plant will not have a place. The visiting card of the species are the drooping varieties Thunberg and Pricox Alba; their inflorescences create a floating web in the flowerbed. Low growth, 25-50 cm, openwork panicles of inflorescences make the plant popular in border flower beds. More often used as an accent on corners or central areas. This species can grow on the sunny side, but the color of the leaves will be lighter and the flowers will not be as rich.

Dwarf varieties can be grown in pots; they tolerate the home climate well. Some flowering arrangements are suitable as a gift. Feels better outdoors, therefore, it is advisable to take flowerpots with indoor astilbe to the balcony or terrace of a private house in the summer.

Most flower beds located in the shade will definitely contain astilbe. The perennial has long gained popularity as unpretentious plant. Today we will cover the topic of planting astilbe and caring for it in open ground, as beginners and experienced gardeners I am interested in the basics of agricultural technology and the peculiarities of growing flowers.

An unpretentious crop for a shady flower garden loves a cool climate

Plant characteristics

Consumer qualities

Summer residents probably wouldn’t pay attention to the panicles of wild astilbe. Tiny buds, inconspicuous colors, resemble weeds, which are in abundance around. However, breeders managed to accomplish the incredible - to develop such bright varieties of astilbe that simply cannot go unnoticed.

Required cultural qualities:

• decorative openwork leaves;
• catchy strong inflorescences;
• abundant and long flowering;
• winter hardiness;
• shade and moisture-loving.

This flower is grown everywhere in middle lane Russia. Moreover, in the south, astilbe often burns and dries, and tamed to the specific climate of Western and Eastern Siberia, it is successfully cultivated in the territories Altai Territory, Urals, as well as in the Far East (Primorsky, Khabarovsk Territories).

Conclusion: astilbe is not a crop for hot regions.

Flower garden companions

Gardeners plant astilbe along with coniferous and decorative deciduous shrubs, creating original sites along the perimeter of reservoirs, combining varieties of adjacent color and height.

Low-growing perennials successfully prove themselves as a potted crop, and dwarf astilbes take root well in rocky areas of rockeries or rock gardens.

Low-growing A. Arends "Fanal" opens the flowering season

Astilbe is comfortable in the circle of the following, tolerant of lack sunlight, plants:

• hydrangeas;
• hosts;
• Siberian iris;
• fern;
• bergenia.

It is noteworthy that even the absence of astilbe flowers will not make such a flower bed boring. The leaves of the “neighbors” are unique decorative form and different colors. At the same time, for all plants to live, it is enough to see the sun only at sunrise or closer to sunset. Moisture, diffused shade and minimal care are all that is needed for healthy growth and prosperity of astilbe.

Typical rock garden company

Basics of propagation and agricultural technology

Growing crops from seeds at home

Astilbe is propagated vegetatively and by seeds. Beginning flower growers prefer the first method. The second often raises a number of intractable questions such as: “how to collect and germinate tiny seeds”, “when to sow seedlings”, etc.

Many experimenters are stopped by the low percentage of germination of astilbe (which is often indicated on the packaging label), as well as possible problems when transplanting seedlings into open ground. Agree, it is much easier to buy ready-made roots with buds in a nursery and not bother yourself with unnecessary hassle of creating a greenhouse, stratifying and picking young plants and then “moving” the astilbe to the flowerbed.

However, those who like to take risks often receive a well-deserved reward. It is the seed method of growing astilbe that allows you to become an amateur breeder, experiment and get an unpredictable result - new varieties.

On a note! The polymorphic properties of astilbe lead to natural consequences - seedlings partially retain the characteristics of the mother plant. Be prepared for the fact that when propagating white seeds low growing flower, you will end up with a tall perennial with pink panicles.

Astilbe seeds are sown for seedlings in early March. A mixture of peat and sand (in parts 3:1) is placed in a wide container 15 cm high. A handful of snow is scattered on top, on which small seeds are distributed. Thus, conditions are artificially created for stratifying seeds and increasing their germination. Together with melting snow, astilbe penetrates into the soil.

1 g of perennial inflorescence contains about 20 thousand tiny seeds, invisible to the naked eye

Next, the pot is placed in a transparent bag and sent to the refrigerator for 15-20 days. After the specified period, the “greenhouse” is taken out and taken to a warm (+18 degrees), well-lit place, for example, on a balcony. Astilbe shoots should appear within 3-4 weeks. The soil should not be allowed to dry out; a spray gun is used to moisten it.

Perennial seedlings grow very slowly. If necessary, sprouts are planted in separate containers after 2-3 leaves appear. Practice shows that in most cases a full-fledged rosette barely has time to form by the end of the year, and therefore astilbe is transplanted into open ground only next spring.

Young bushes will throw out their first flower stalks no earlier than in the third year of life.

Methods for planting astilbe

There are several options for growing astilbe in a summer cottage:

• planting seeds in open ground;
• planting seedlings obtained personally at home;
• rooting of perennial cuttings (renewal buds).

The first two methods cause the most debate among flower growers; the last one does not bring much trouble and 99.9% gives a good result.

How to root renewal buds purchased in February and when to plant astilbe in the ground is discussed in detail in the video on the Garden World website:

Planting seeds in open ground

This method of growing perennials in garden plots is practically not used. However, it is not advisable to exclude it from floriculture practice forever. Some gardeners are ready to bring real examples self-seeding of astilbe - cases when new plants appeared next to a varietal perennial, distinctive in appearance, but overall wonderful. By the way, this is the only way to reproduce astilbe in the wild.

In other words, growing perennials from seeds at home is possible. After the panicles fade, they do not need to be trimmed. By autumn, the seed will leave the astilbe boxes on its own. 50 or more thousand dust-like seeds will fall to the ground. In winter, wilted greenery will become a natural protection for the perennial from freezing.

On a note! Experts note that many varieties of astilbe do not freeze or rot. Most often they die due to the natural aging of the rhizome. Plants vitally need to divide the root and regularly deepen it into the soil. This measure rejuvenates the perennial and stimulates growth.

After lying in the open ground for the winter, the seeds will undergo stratification and sprout sparsely in the spring. The intervention of the summer resident will not play a role in the process. Let's say, this is an uncontrolled way of propagating astilbe, where you should rely not on your own knowledge and skills, but on chance.

If the goal is to grow a perennial from purchased varietal seeds, you need to turn to the second method - obtaining astilbe seedlings.

Botanists say the plant's vitality is enviable

Planting seedlings grown at home

Julia shares her experience of sowing seeds:

What are the further actions of a gardener who has managed to grow strong seedlings? How to properly plant astilbe in open ground? Compliance following rules agricultural technology will be the key to successful rooting of perennials.

Firstly, astilbe prefers loamy soil with high groundwater levels. Optimal acidity – 5.5/6.5 pH. Secondly, while the young perennial is adapting to the new environment, it is important to protect the place where the seedlings are planted, both from frost and from active sun and dry wind.

When to plant? When choosing a time, you should trust the thermometer, not lunar calendar. If there is a threat of return frosts, it is better to reschedule the event. Even light frost can destroy astilbe seedlings. In May-June, when the weather is consistently warm, seedlings are transplanted into open ground on the north side of the house, in partial shade, using the transshipment method.

On a note! There is no need to cover the plants if you first harden the astilbe by placing it on an open loggia or balcony.

Holes are dug in the flower garden, maintaining a distance of 35-40 cm. The bottom is flavored with ash. The astilbe root is lowered to a depth of 20 cm. It is important to ensure that the renewal buds are covered with soil, a layer of up to 3 cm.

Within a week, astilbe will adapt and grow

After transplantation, the soil around the seedling is well mulched. Use peat or humus. Uncovered soil quickly evaporates water, and the perennial loves moist places. Watering astilbe is carried out regularly for 10-15 days before the appearance obvious signs rooting. No feeding is needed.

More details about the transfer rules on the “7 Dachas” website:

Basics of caring for astilbe

Growing perennials in open ground does not cause gardeners any problems or worries. The main thing is that the right place for the plant is chosen.

We remind you that the ideal site is characterized by:

• diffused shadow created by bushes or trees;
• moist air provided by a pond or stream.

Astilbe is especially luxurious near ponds and streams

Adequate water as a vital requirement

Changes in humidification conditions are immediately reflected in appearance astilbe. Growing in sunny areas, coupled with a lack of moisture in the soil, leads to a smaller size of bushes and panicles.

Additionally, the following consequences are observed:

• delay in the growth of rhizomes;
• leaf fall;
• reduction of flowering time;
• loss of overall decorative effect.

With low air humidity and constant windiness, the plant can curl up and shed its leaves, astilbe burns and dries.

In this case it is necessary:

• re-mulch the soil;
• water the plant abundantly and regularly;
• spray greens;
• organize artificial shading during hot hours;
• take care of denser planting of perennials.

On a note! Astilbe has the ability to crowd out weeds. The flower garden will always look well-groomed.

Drought-resistant varieties

Today, breeders have managed to develop perennial specimens that are tolerant of arid climates. Thus, Japanese astilbe is able to survive even in conditions of lack of water. The scorched greenery will die, but in the spring the plant will again throw out young shoots. Don’t rush to uproot a flower that was ruined this year. At least give the rhizome a chance to show its strength next season.

Relatively dry soil will not harm Astilbe Chinese Superba and Purpurlance.

Beauty Superba

Flowering period

The flowering time of astilbe depends on the variety and climatic conditions. In general, panicles mature within 60-120 days after awakening (exiting the dormant period).

Usually Japanese astilbe opens first and that’s it low-growing varieties, followed by approximately simultaneously simple-leaved, Thunberga, as well as medium-sized hybrids of Arends and Lemoine. Chinese perennials are closing their flowering season.

The duration of the riot of colors directly depends on the climatic characteristics of the area and varies between 12-35 days. At the end of flowering, individual astilbes do not lose their natural color, creating the effect of an incredibly long flowering period.

The lower the variety, the earlier it ripens

On a note! Gardeners note that panicles fade faster in sunny areas than in shady areas.

If there is no goal to stock up on seeds, semi-dry astilbe brushes are cut off. At the same time, the bushes do not lose their decorative properties. Red, brown, brown-green and green foliage retains its beauty until frost. The main thing is that the autumn should be warm, the air should be regularly saturated with moisture, and the temperature should drop slowly (gradually).

A monochromatic flower garden will last through September and October in this form.

They will teach you how to properly prune faded astilbe " Good advice»:

Loosening

Astilbe loves soft and loose loam

Loosening allows you to increase the air permeability of the soil around the astilbe and control weeds. It is useful to hold the event 2-3 times per season.

During loosening, the soil is not turned over. The main task is to destroy the crust on the surface of the hole. The procedure is carried out carefully with an ordinary weeder, focusing on a depth of 5-10 cm.

Feeding

How to grow a healthy and strong plant? You just need to root a high-quality seedling in the ground, create a shaded environment and ensure a regular supply of moisture to the roots. Astilbe will grow, bloom and delight the gardener's eye.

It is impossible to say that a perennial vitally needs regular feeding. However, pampering your favorite bush with “goodies” is also not prohibited.

Gardeners feed astilbe 3 times a year: in the spring - with nitrogen fertilizers, in June (when it blooms) - with complex complexes, until August 10-15 - with phosphorus-potassium compounds and ash. In the latter case, the plant’s resistance to pests and diseases, as well as its winter hardiness, increases.

Reason for dividing the rhizome and time of transplantation

In a favorable atmosphere, astilbe will soon grow. The root collar rises above the ground by 3-5 cm over the course of a year. At first, it must be hilled up (sprinkled with soil), otherwise the perennial will stop blooming. After 4-5 years, the plant must be replanted.

The peculiarity of the astilbe rhizome is such that the growth of renewal buds occurs not horizontally, but vertically, and near the very surface of the earth. If young roots are left without soil cover, they will die: they will dry out in the summer or freeze in the winter.

Astilbe is sold in this form in nurseries.

On a note! Grinding of flower stalks and perennial bushes is a direct signal about the exposure of the root collar and shoots.

In one place, astilbe can grow for up to 20 years. However, in this case it is better not to wait for lush vegetative mass and large panicles. If the gardener wants to increase the decorativeness of the bush, he should regularly (with a frequency of 3-4 years) divide the rhizome into parts and replant the sections to a new place of residence. This is the most common and a separate story that deserves attention. The benefit of the event is obvious - there are more flowering bushes and the garden is more beautiful.

It is believed that the best period for transplantation is spring (without frost) or autumn (late August - September). Astilbe divisions must have time to take root before wintering. To reduce the stress of a transplanted plant, the greens can be sprayed with epin or phytosporin. Adaptation will happen faster and with the least losses.

On a note! Gardening practice has shown that, contrary to literary instructions, astilbes take root well at any time of active growing season, even during the flowering period!

How to care for a transplanted division? In the usual way:

• maintain soil moisture by mulching;
• feed after establishment three times a year;
• trim the discarded flower stalks once after replanting to allow the plant to grow stronger.

Preparing astilbe for wintering

In mild climates and heavy snow, the bush may not be covered

Caring for a plant in the fall involves a number of activities:

• fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium;
• renewing mulch over the rhizome;
• cuttings of dried and lost decorative greenery;
• shelter from frost if necessary.

Astilbe stems are cut almost to the root. The “stumps” are hilled up on top and covered with a layer of mulch from 5 to 20 cm. Hay, leaves, sawdust, high-moor peat, and spruce branches are used.

In the fall, these materials will protect the soil and astilbe roots from weathering and washing away due to heavy rains. In winter, the shelter will eliminate the risk of soil freezing, becoming the key to the healthy development of the bush for the next season.

Practice has shown that in warm regions, astilbe is not prepared for winter. The work boils down to putting things in order personal plot. In the Far East, in territories with harsh winters It’s better to play it safe and cover the perennial “warmer”. Then in the frost and lack of snow you can sleep peacefully.