How to repair an old cast iron bath. We restore the old bath with our own hands: step by step instructions. Preparation of the necessary materials

Over time, during operation, the bath fails. In particular, this applies to Soviet-made cast-iron bathtubs. But what to do? Buy new or refurbish cast iron bath on one's own? Of course, you decide, but it is worth noting that the purchase new bath rather expensive pleasure, therefore we recommend doing repairs. But before that, you need to study all its features.

Methods for repairing a cast iron bath

Considering the options for repairing the bath, only two can be distinguished:

Enamel application. Which, in turn, can be divided into the device of enamel and the application of liquid acrylic.
Acrylic liner.

Each of these options has features that must be considered when carrying out work. Let's look at each repair method in more detail.

Enameling

The first way is . Note that it is available for use only when the bath itself is intact, and you are only embarrassed by it appearance(which has deteriorated over the years).

Restoration work of this type is divided into several stages:

Enamel selection.
Bath surface preparation.
Coating.

In order to perform all the work qualitatively, it is necessary to study the features of each of the stages.

The choice of enamel for the bath

The first, and very important, is the choice of enamel, which will later be applied to the surface. Accordingly, to choose, you need to know several features:

The coating can be applied in several ways: with a brush or roller, as well as in the form of an aerosol. Note that aerosol application is not suitable for a full-fledged restoration.
Also, bath enamel should be presented as a set with all the components necessary for work.
For two-component formulations, a hardener is required, which is selected in accordance with the shade.

And let's look at the most suitable formulations for work like this:

Any of the presented types, which are most popular today, is suitable for work.

Now that the material is selected, you can proceed directly to the execution of work.

Foundation preparation

Before you start directly applying the composition to the surface of the bath, you must carefully prepare it. The preparation itself is carried out as follows:

Upon completion of the preparation, you can proceed directly to the application of enamel, and it will differ depending on the choice made. Namely, different ways regular enamel is applied and liquid acrylic. We will analyze each of them in some more detail.

Enamel application

Upon completion of the preparation, we proceed to repair the bath using enameling, which is performed as follows:

Allow the tub to dry completely when finished. It is recommended to use it no earlier than 2-3 days after applying the composition.

The process of restoration or repair of a cast-iron bath using this method lasts about 4 hours. It begins after the replacement of the enamel is completed.
The method is the application of an additional (fourth) layer of enamel on the surface of the bathroom.
If a new coating has been applied before, then it should dry completely, after which an additional layer is applied.

When performing reinforcement, it is worth considering some features:

After applying the last layer, the enamel should dry well.
The bathroom cannot be used for three days.
Such repair of a cast-iron bath can be carried out independently, taking into account detailed instructions to the enamel jar.
You can also use the services of a restoration company. However, there are some nuances here.
You must take into account the fact that such enamel has a service life of one and a half years.
Such a bath should be used with care. Since the enamel is scratched, you need to wash it only with soft rags and gels.
After a year and a half, a new repair will be required.

But nevertheless, although the method is short-term, it is not expensive. In this way, you can maintain an attractive appearance of the bathroom for many years, and prevent it from rusting and completely deteriorating.

liquid acrylic

And the second way to restore cast-iron plumbing is the application of liquid acrylic. The whole process is carried out in accordance with the technology:

Acrylic liner

Another way to repair a cast-iron bath is

When the base of the bathtub is in poor condition, and it is impossible to do just by replacing the enamel.
In cases where there is a desire to give the new kind your old plumbing.
In addition, it is actively used for the "reconstruction" of the bath. As you know, metal transmits and absorbs heat very well. And usually in any metal and cast iron products, the water cools down very quickly, preventing you from enjoying it. That's when the acrylic liner comes to the rescue.

In addition, it is worth noting a number of advantages of such a solution:

The insert is wear resistant.
Pretty durable.
During operation does not change color and its properties.
It has sufficient moisture resistance.
Easy to maintain and operate.
In addition, it has a smooth finish that repels dirt.
Immune to household dyes, as well as household chemicals.
It heats up fairly quickly and cools down slowly.

But let's take a look directly at how the repair process itself goes:

Important! When buying an acrylic liner, be sure to ask for a quality certificate for it. Also, check its integrity at the place of purchase.

Conclusion

As you may have noticed, there are not so many ways to restore and repair a cast-iron bath, and at the same time they are as simple as possible, therefore it is possible independent execution all works (even without someone's help). We also recommend that you watch a few videos that will clearly show all the repair methods, and you will once again see how easy it is to do it yourself.

What to do if the bath is no longer presentable, and there is no possibility or desire to put a new one ( overhaul when replacing is almost inevitable)? There are several technologies that allow you to make a new one out of an old bath - to renew the coating. Restoration of the bath is possible with your own hands, you just need to choose which specific method you will use.

Ways to restore the bath, their advantages and disadvantages

Do-it-yourself bath restoration can be done in three ways:

painting with special enamel;
liquid (bulk acrylic);
insertion of an acrylic liner (bathtub in the bathroom).

If speak about self-conduct works, then most often the bathtub cover is restored by painting or bulk acrylic. It's just that the cost of an acrylic liner is about 80% of the total amount that firms charge for this procedure, so rarely does anyone want to understand the intricacies. In addition, at self installation you lose your warranty. However, by this method, you can update the bath with your own hands.

Enamel painting

Now for the pros and cons of each method. Enamel painting is the cheapest option, but also the most short-lived. This coverage is enough for several years - from 3 to 5. The specific figure depends on the thoroughness pre-training surface and paint quality.

The painting process is not the easiest - to get good result several (at least three) applications are required, and each of them has to be “earned”, removing sags, streaks, smoothing out irregularities. All this takes time and patience. But how a budget option, the method is not bad. After the paint begins to peel off, it is removed (heated with a building hair dryer, removed with a spatula) and, after surface treatment, the bath can be painted.

The composition of the enamel has a very sharp persistent smell that lasts for a long time. It is better to work in a respirator, but it is advisable not to open the doors - the paint will dry faster, it will be more difficult to fix.

By brand of paint that is used to paint the bathroom. First of all, this is Tikkurila REAFLEX 50 (Tikkurila Reaflex). Bi-component enamel. Not cheap, but high quality. Feedback on its use is positive. In principle, the quality of the coating depends on how accurately the proportions are observed when mixing the components. You can't pour less or more. It will only get worse.

There are other enamels - organosilicon, which says "for baths." Others must not be used, as they are in contact with warm water may release harmful substances.

Bulk bath

Restoration of a bathtub with the help of self-leveling acrylic is becoming more and more popular. This is a two-component composition that is mixed immediately before use. The cost of the kit is about $ 50 (more or less depends on the size of the bowl). As in the previous version, the durability of the coating depends on the quality of the surface preparation. And it should not be any pollution, greasy spots, and the surface itself is required to be even and rough. The process of applying the composition is simple - it is simply poured in a thin stream from a small container, and it levels itself. On the walls, the layer is thinner, on the bottom - thicker. The ideal state of affairs for operation. If everything is done correctly, such a coating will last up to 5-7 years, although manufacturers say that the service life is more than 10 years, some even say 15 years.

Bulk bath - so they say for good reason. Acrylic is simply poured onto the boards

In addition to durability, this material also pleases with the absence of smell. Rather, there is a smell, but very weak, almost imperceptible, so it is comfortable to work with it.

About the materials that can be used to restore the bath at home. Basically there are reviews about two brands: Stakril (Stakril) and Plastall (PlastAll). Both materials have a good reputation (if done right). Is on the market a large number of cheaper brands of liquid acrylic, but they rarely have hygiene certificates. And without documents it is better not to take risks.

bath insert

The plus of the “bath in bath” option is the durability of the coating - up to 15 years, but the guarantee is usually given for 2-3 years. However, this method is not so simple either. Installing an acrylic liner is both easier and more difficult at the same time. Firstly, there are so many liners for standard bathrooms, but not everyone has them. Secondly, they cannot be placed on thin-walled metal or “light” cast iron - the metal is thin, walks under load, which is why the liner quickly separates from the base and bursts. Since it is these specimens that most often have to be restored, firms simply “forget” about this moment.

There are three other downsides to using the bath-in-tub method. They are not necessarily present, but can be and lead to damage to the liner, so it is desirable to know about them. So, what can adversely affect the life of the acrylic liner in the bathroom:

The molded liner has an ideal geometry, and the baths, most often, have deviations. In places of these inconsistencies, cracks usually form.
Acrylic sits on a special two-component foam. Although it holds the load better than the construction one, it can still be crushed. In these places, voids form, and they lead to the appearance of cracks.
At the installation sites of the siphon and overflow, two containers are connected. It is very important to carefully seal this joint. Firstly, because the water will flow to the floor, and secondly, it can flow into the voids, bloom there and spread the corresponding “aromas”.

In addition to all the nuances of installation, it is important to choose a quality liner. And this is very difficult. Sanitary acrylic is expensive. Therefore, the liners are sometimes made very thin or made of cheap porous and brittle acrylic, sometimes made of coated fiberglass.

The essence of the bath in the bath method

The thicker the acrylic layer in the liner, the higher the price. In cheap liners, the thickness is very small - 0.5-1 mm, in medium-quality ones 2-3 mm, and it is very difficult to find an insert with 4 mm acrylic, but they are the most durable. When calling firms, be interested in the thickness of the liner at the bottom. If they say that 5-6 mm or even more, they are deceiving you. They just don't do that and there's nothing more to talk about. The second thing you need to ask is the availability of a hygiene certificate. Sometimes the liners are molded from counterfeit material, and it is very short-lived - it cracks after a few months. Such a product does not have documents, although the “leftists” can give it. But still... The next stage of quality control is visual. When visiting a company from which you plan to purchase a plastic bathroom liner, inspect a few pieces. They should be perfectly even, and the color should be snow white. Not greyish, not greenish or yellowish. Snow white. No shades. In this case, we can hope that the bathroom restored by him will serve for a long time.

Preparation

Preparing a bathtub for restoration is important in any case. Even if you are going to put an insert. Good adhesion (adhesion) with foam is also necessary there. And in the case of using enamel or acrylic, preparation plays a very important role.

If you look at the description of the work of companies involved in the restoration of bathtubs, then they preparatory stage- this is to remove the drain and overflow, it is good to walk over the entire surface with sandpaper with abrasive powder, wash and dry. If there is, repair the chips with automotive putty. Sometimes they add that it is necessary to degrease the surface with a solvent. That's all, then enamel is applied or acrylic is poured. All work takes a maximum of 3-4 hours.

When studying reviews of self-restoration, a different picture emerges - there are much more stages and preparation is often delayed for a day. There are two ways. The first is to remove upper layer using a grinder and petal sandpaper (remove the top layer of enamel, and not clean to metal). After removal of dust it is possible to paint.

The second way is to remove contaminants with acids, alkalis, solvents. Both methods have been tried and work equally well. You choose what is best - dust and sound when processed with a grinder, or smells when processed with chemistry.

Here's what to do before restoring enamel using chemical method cleansing:

Application of poured acrylic

Restoration of a bathtub using bulk acrylic is perhaps the most easy way upgrade it (although not the cheapest), you just need to know a few subtleties.

The first point concerns the density and temperature of the material. A normal polymerization process requires a temperature of 22-26°C. In order for liquid acrylic to spread normally, it must stand for at least a day in a warm room. During this time, the composition will reach the required temperature. There is another option - put in a bucket or basin with warm water (not hot, but warm). Only in this case there is a possibility of overheating. Then it will be too fluid, the layer on the bath will be much thinner than required. So we try to bring it to the right temperature.

The second point is the absence of any drafts. good craftsmen work indoors. They even sand the enamel with a grinder or treat it with acid. They do it in respirators, which we advise you. But they need to hurry, because for them time is money, and the owner has nowhere to hurry. If you are doing the restoration of the bathroom cover for yourself, you can do all the dusty or “odorous” work with open doors and the ventilation turned on, then close the doors and wait until the temperature reaches the desired limit of 22°C or slightly higher.

The third point is the exclusion of water droplets and dust. While the room is heating, it is necessary to wrap all the taps with polyethylene, completely eliminating the possibility of water ingress. In addition, it is necessary to wrap the shelves, heated towel rail or other devices and objects that are above the bathtub with a cloth. This is necessary to prevent the formation of condensate, drops of which can damage the surface of an uncured filling bath. Also: during operation and polymerization (from two to five days), the doors must be kept closed. So you keep the required temperature, and also reduce the possibility of dust, debris and insects on the surface. It is very disappointing when a midge or a fly sits on a beautiful white surface. It is almost impossible to remove it without a trace. After complete solidification, you will have to sand and fill again, but a trace usually remains - there is not enough qualification.

When the temperature in the bath has risen to 22 ° C, a film or paper is placed under the outer rim of the bath, a clean container is placed under the drain hole, into which excess material will drain. If the bathroom is tiled along the edge, so as not to get dirty, it is pasted over with masking tape, making sure that the edge is even.

For further work, you need a regular or rubber spatula about 10 cm wide, plastic container with a volume of 500-600 ml (a beer glass will do). A jar with acrylic heated to the desired temperature is opened, the remains of acrylic from the lid are carefully removed with a spatula and sent to the jar. Then the material is also cleaned from the walls. All walls must be clean so that no acrylic remains on them that have not been mixed with a hardener.

The hardener that comes with acrylic is poured into the jar, mixed for 15 minutes. You can interfere with a planed wooden stick or a nozzle on a drill at low speeds. It's safer with a stick - guaranteed not to damage the jar or splatter the material. If you decide to use a drill, the nozzle should not have a burr or sharp protrusions, the speed should be the lowest. When stirring, work well on the bottom and edges.

Leave the mixed naive bath acrylic for 10 minutes, then stir again for 5 minutes. It is necessary to work either without a shirt or in clothes that will not touch the edges of the bathroom.

We put the jar in the bath, take a container, pour the composition from the jar into it. From the glass we begin to pour on the side with far edge bathroom, bypassing it on three sides. The composition slowly flows down, enveloping the surface, distributed in an even layer.

It is impossible to pour onto the side exactly under the wall, and the edge looks ugly. We take a spatula, carefully distribute the composition, covering the entire surface. He straightens himself out.

Having spilled three sides along the side, we begin to pour just above the place where the old coating is visible. We pass again on three sides. Usually two or three passes are enough to cover the entire surface, in some places you can touch up a little with a spatula, directing the material to the right place.

The last to fill in the near side. It starts to drip, so work carefully. The process is the same. First on top, then a couple of times a little lower.

Final touches. We draw along the bottom of the bathroom with the angle of the spatula in a zigzag motion. This will help to evenly distribute the composition, to avoid sagging. Finally, with a spatula, remove the drops that hung there from the outer edge of the side (just draw the blade of the spatula along the side).

The bath is left for 48 hours. After that, you can remove the adhesive tape, film, paper, which is laid out around. Everything, the restoration of the bath with your own hands is completed, but it will be possible to use it in another three days.

This is a bath "before" and "after" restoration with bulk acrylic

Bathtub enameling at home

Pro good lineups for enameling it was described above, so it is advisable to use them. There are instructions for use on the can, but the rules are practically the same as for ordinary painting. Only the preparation is unusual, but it has already been written about.

Some firms offer to prime the surface before applying enamel to the bath. If there is such an opportunity, it should be done. The primer is applied in the same way as enamel, after drying (the period is indicated on the can), polished to smoothness, then cleaned of dust, washed, dried. Next, the enamel is applied.

To distribute the composition, you can use a good natural bristle brush or a small foam roller. So that the bristles do not come out of the brush, soak it for a day in water and take out everything that comes out with your hands. There are no problems with the roller.

A hardener is poured into the main composition. Measure exactly as recommended, no more, no less. Stir well, paying special attention to the bottom and walls. When using a roller, some of the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the tub - it's easier to work with. With a brush, the composition is taken from the can. They try to apply enamel or primer evenly, without leaving unpainted spots or streaks.

After priming, grinding is required, followed by dust removal, and after applying the enamel, you need to look at the results. If everything is smooth, you can stop there. If the appearance does not suit you, you need to process the sandpaper again. leveling the bumps and repainting. Sometimes up to 4 layers are needed.

Self-installation of acrylic liner (inserts)

Restoration of a bathroom using this technology has its own peculiarity: if the edge of the bathtub is tiled, it must be removed. Not the most pleasant moment. You can do without removing the tile if the edge of the bathroom comes out from under it by at least 1 cm. Then the liner along the edge can be cut. Cut it with a grinder or a jigsaw along the marked line

When removing a tile, it is cut along the wall with a grinder with diamond disc. Then, with a perforator, the edging is gradually beaten off. Next, remove the siphon, clean the drain and overflow hole from dirt. We measure their position in the bathroom - the location must be transferred to the insert. The match must be perfect. In the marked places, holes are drilled using a crown of the appropriate diameter, put on a drill.

We proceed directly to the installation of the acrylic liner:

In the bathtub, around the drain and overflow holes, we apply a solid strip of acrylic sealant. We do not regret the sealant - it will prevent leaks.
With a special foam (FOME-PRO) we apply strips on the surface of the bath. At the bottom - 4-5 pieces along and with a step of 5-7 cm transverse stripes. On side surfaces, with entry to the side - three stripes in the corners, and on the sidewalls they make a cage in increments of 5-7 cm. Two strips are placed on the side. In general, the foam should be evenly distributed.
At the bottom we make a "grid" of special foam
We insert the liner from above, trying not to shift the foam on the sides. It is necessary to lower it in the center, carefully.
We smooth the liner along the entire length of the sides, and on the walls and at the bottom. The bottom must be pressed especially carefully.
Silicone will come out of the drain holes. We delete it.
Special grilles are placed on the drain and overflow - they have a special fastening, since the thickness of the bath has become much larger.
Filling the bath cold water, leave for 8-12 hours - the time of polymerization of the foam.
Installing the boards. They are placed on mounting foam, joints are sealed with sealant.
The bath is ready.

Any bath loses its former novelty over time: the color fades, an unpleasant roughness appears, the enamel cracks ... If your bath has lost its beauty, it is not necessary to spend money on a new one. Refurbish old bath It will not be difficult, especially since you can choose the most suitable method.

Before proceeding with the restoration of the bath, you need to make sure that it is subject to renewal, and not disposal.

The bath can be updated if:

the enamel has become rough;
there are shallow cracks, scratches and chips of enamel;
the color faded and became a dirty yellow.

If the body of your bath is deformed, or deep cracks have formed in it, no restoration will help here.

Enamelling

Cast-iron baths are available in almost all apartments in the post-Soviet space. These are reliable non-lifting structures that are easier to repair than replace, which is what we will do today.

Enamel on such bathrooms wears out for several reasons. First, it is too long. As a rule, enamel lasts about 10-15 years with correct use. If the apartment, for example, was built back in the days of the USSR, then the “natural death” of enamel should have come oh so long ago. Therefore, if you got such a “treasure”, you must immediately restore cast iron bath. Secondly, during operation, household chemicals, sometimes very aggressive, are used to clean the surface. Slowly but surely, they destroy the enamel and bring the repair time closer.

Restoring a smooth enamel coating at home is quite simple. Just enough to buy necessary tools and materials and get to work.

Tools and materials:

drill with grinding nozzle;
abrasive powder;
rust remover (you can buy special remedy in the store or get rid of rust with a “folk” remedy - “Coca-Cola”);
sandpaper;
degreaser;
lint-free rags;
natural bristle brush (flat);
gloves;
respirator;
two-component enamel.

Progress:

Congratulations, you've restored your bathtub! However, do not rush to bathe - before using it is better to wait about a week for the enamel to harden properly. Such a coating is "enough" for 6-10 years, depending on the quality of the enamel used.

liquid acrylic

This is a relatively "young" way, which, nevertheless, has already gained popularity around the world because of its speed, convenience and durability. You just need to call the master, and literally in an hour you can enjoy the view of the snow-white renovated bathroom! But we have gathered here because it is not in our rules to spend money on the services of masters. Restoring a bathtub with your own hands using acrylic is as easy as shelling pears.

First, a few words about this very acrylic. This is a special high-strength composition called glass. Stakryl is a two-component acrylic (acrylic and fixative) that is specially designed for bathtubs. That is, when buying stacryl, you simply cannot make a mistake, while enamel can be used both for cars and for water pipes, and for painting wood. Stakryl forms a dense film with a thickness of 4-6 mm, which does not allow water to pass through and has excellent performance characteristics.

Advantages of glass:

viscosity;
fluidity (the composition quickly envelops and is distributed over the surface);
slow polymerization (low hardening rates help to carry out restoration with high quality and without haste);
protection against mechanical damage (in a frozen form, you can not be afraid that the composition will break off from an accidental impact).

Progress:

Prepare the surface of the bath in the same way as in the case of enamelling.
Disconnect the siphon and place a plastic container under the drain (you can cut off a five-liter bottle). Acrylic will flow there.
Prepare the acrylic mixture according to the instructions on the package and start pouring it in a thin stream over the rim of the tub. As soon as the mixture drains to the middle of the height of the sides, begin to slowly move along the perimeter. When you return to the starting point, repeat the procedure again, starting from the middle of the tub.
You need to pour acrylic continuously, so you need to immediately make sure that the container is of the appropriate size. In this case, it is better not to save money, since it is much more difficult to redo mistakes after improper handling of glass than to restore an ordinary enamelled bath.

Polymerization takes from two to four days, depending on the type of composition. It is best to take your time and choose acrylic with long term hardening (the longer the better). In this case, it will be much stronger and last much longer than quick-drying formulations. The service life of the acrylic coating is about 20 years.

Video on how to restore a bath with acrylic:

Liner or "bath to bath"

The most elementary, but at the same time the most expensive way to restore a bathtub. Its essence is as follows: the surface of the bath is smeared with glue and a thin "cast" of identical sizes is inserted into it. Everything seems simple, but you can only get such an insert at the factory where the baths are made. If you live next door to one of these businesses, or if you happen to own one, the following instructions are written just for you!

Progress:

Now you know how to restore the bath yourself. As a good parting word, we can only advise you not to limit yourself to the standard white color, but to choose the shade of enamel in accordance with the interior or your own fantasies. So, black bathtubs look very impressive, but it should be warned that this is a “capricious” color that requires permanent care. blue and green colors will allow you to relax and unwind, and orange will instantly cheer you up!

Sooner or later, the enamel of any bath becomes thinner, indelible rusty stains appear on it, and its owner states with chagrin that it is time to change the equipment. This difficult procedure is very time consuming, so many are trying to figure out how to update an old cast-iron bathtub and whether it is even possible. Despite the fact that the appearance of such a device leaves much to be desired, the design fully retains all its performance characteristics. Therefore, the restoration should consist only in the application of a new enamel coating. Modern technologies allow you to do this.

Should old equipment be restored?

The most obvious solution is to replace the plumbing fixtures. Let's try to figure out how much such an event will cost. To the cost of the simplest bath, we add the cost of transporting it, lifting the device to the floor, if necessary. In addition, a certain amount will be required to pay for the dismantling of old equipment and the installation of new ones. At the lowest prices, all this will require about 12,000 rubles. This is only when the wall and flooring will not be damaged by installation work. Otherwise, you will also have to pay for a partial bathroom renovation.

Dismantling the old and installing a new bath is a troublesome and costly undertaking. If the enamel of the equipment has become thinner or washed off, and the device itself is still in good condition, it is worth considering restoration

Thus, for a fairly large amount, we get a modest result, since the cost of the cheapest bathtub was included in the calculation. If you want a more convenient or high-quality design, you will have to increase the estimated expense item. Not everyone can afford such costs, so they want to restore their cast-iron bath. This is a cheaper and more efficient solution.

However, it is very important to correctly choose the method of restoration. There are only three of them:

acrylic bathtub;
applying a new layer of enamel to the surface of the device;
installation of an acrylic liner.

Let's consider each method in more detail.

What types of restoration are there?

Option #1 - acrylic coating

Restoring a cast-iron bath by pouring acrylic is considered one of the easiest. This is enough new method, which managed to gain popularity among consumers. It consists in applying a liquid acrylic solution by pouring onto the surface of the equipment. Its advantages include:

Durability. The coating obtained in this way, provided that it is correctly applied, retains its properties for about 8-15 years. This is due to the fact that acrylic is applied in a fairly thick layer of about 6 mm.
Smooth glossy finish. The composition is quite thick. It spreads well over the surface of the device, filling possible irregularities, forming an almost perfectly even and smooth plane.
Relative simplicity and high speed of applying liquid acrylic.
Absence bad smell, which allows you to perform work even in homes where allergy sufferers, children and the elderly live.

There are also disadvantages of the method. Among them is the drying time of the composition. This usually takes about three days, during which it is not recommended to even approach the device. Since debris, dust particles or water accidentally falling on a drying surface can ruin it.

Despite the apparent simplicity of applying acrylic by pouring, this is a rather complicated method of restoration. Requires certain skills to work with the composition

Another negative point is the relatively high cost. It is higher than that of enamel. However, this price is more than justified. long term operation and good quality coatings.

Option # 2 - self-enamelling

Most old way restoration. It remotely resembles painting, but you need to clearly understand that special enamel is applied in this case. It is she who needs to be chosen, wondering how to paint a cast-iron bath. There are two types of such compositions: for professional application and for independent. The first ones are very liquid and require laying in several layers. This is a rather complicated procedure. The second ones are thicker and, accordingly, easier to apply.

Properly selected composition with the help of a roller, and more often a brush, is placed on the prepared surface of the equipment. Advantages of this method:

The cheapest restoration option.
There is no need for dismantling and subsequent installation of the drain and overflow.
Suitable for both cast iron and steel bathtubs.

Enameling has many more disadvantages:

The service life of the new enamel is about 5 years.
The composition applied to the surface of the equipment dries for quite a long time - about 5-7 days.
The coating is hard, respectively, very sensitive to shock. Over time, chips may appear.
The enamel is applied in a fairly thin layer, so it is not able to cover various surface irregularities such as dents, chips, etc.
Over time, the epoxy coating will definitely turn yellow.

You need to understand that the enamel obtained as a result of restoration is seriously different from the one that was originally applied to the equipment.

Cold enameling is the cheapest and easiest way to restore. It resembles painting the surface with a special compound.

In order for the enamel to last as long as possible, you should perform simple rules. For example, to wash an updated cast-iron bath, you will need not an abrasive powder, but a soft one. soap solution. Otherwise, the enamel will be damaged. The appliance must be protected from impact, especially with sharp objects, and do not pour too much hot water. When filling the container, you should first open the tap with cold water and only then with hot water.

Option #3 - Bath to Bath Method

This is the name of the restoration method, which consists in installing an acrylic liner inside the old structure, completely repeating its contours. The insert is mounted on a special adhesive foam. With competently carried out work, the service life of the bath after restoration is about 15 years. The main advantages of the method:

Durability of the new coating. Acrylic is much stronger than enamel.
A flat surface that hides all the defects of the old design.
The surface will not yellow over time.
A successful combination of the advantages of acrylic and cast iron baths.

The disadvantages of the method can be considered the need to dismantle drain siphon and a ban on fitting the insert into thin structures referred to as "light cast iron" or "thin cast iron". This is due to the fact that the equipment can sag and the adhesive layer that secures the liner will be broken. The “bath to bath” method is very demanding on the quality of materials. Using an insert of poor quality or inappropriate glue will not be able to restore the bathtub.

Installing the acrylic liner is simple and effective method restoration. Special attention you need to pay attention to the size of the insert. It should fit perfectly in the bath.

All three methods require preparing the equipment for the upgrade. This stage usually includes cleaning the cast iron bath of dirt and grease. Degreasing is done with oxalic acid or baking soda. All defects are carefully cleaned, so that the surface is even. Then grinding is carried out. The result should be a rough surface. When applied to it with the desired composition, adhesion with it will be maximum.

To restore or not - objective conclusions

The decision to restore or replace an old bath, of course, will be made by its owner. However, you need to know that if you correctly carry out restoration work and use only quality materials, the updated bathtub will serve for a long time. It may be worth entrusting this task to experienced professionals with a good reputation. Then for relatively little money you can get an excellent result.

A cast iron bath is a long-term item. But over time, even the most quality coating loses its visual appeal. Changing a cast iron bath is troublesome, so the question arises, how to repair a cast iron bath?

Of course, bathroom renovation is a rather time-consuming task and requires patience. However, many choose to refurbish rather than upgrade their bathtub to a new model. There are three main ways to restore the appearance of the bath. Let's consider each of them.

Application of new enamel

To complete the work you will need:

Drill with a nozzle for removing the old coating.
Oxalic acid.
Composition for degreasing the surface.
Enamel.
Enamel brush.

The work is performed in the following sequence.

The surface of the bath is cleaned of the layer of the old enamel. The easiest way to do this is with a drill with the appropriate nozzle.
If there is a water stone on the surface, it should be removed with oxalic acid.
The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and degreased.

To make it easier to collect dust, you should cover all surfaces in the bathroom with old newspapers or sheets.

Hot water should be drawn into the prepared bath and kept for ten minutes. After that, drain the water, and wipe the surface thoroughly and allow it to dry well.
Prepare the enamel by mixing the main component with the hardener.
Apply the first layer of enamel on a dry bath surface. Allow 20-30 minutes to dry.
Apply the second and third coat, remembering to allow time to dry.
The last fourth layer is reinforcing. After its application, the repair can be considered complete.

It will be possible to use the bathroom after applying the enamel no earlier than three days later.

Bathtub refinishing and refinishing

What is good about this method?

It allows you to change the color of the bath at your discretion, choosing the right shade.
The work can be successfully completed independently, even with modest experience in construction.

The disadvantages of this restoration method are much greater:

The method is laborious, in the process of cleaning the enamel a lot of dust is generated.
The resulting coating cannot be compared in terms of strength with enameling in the factory. C will need to be handled with extreme care, but even in this case, the new coating will last no more than 20 months.

Using an Acrylic Liner

Bathtub renovation with acrylic liner

To complete this work you will need:

Inlay made of sanitary acrylic according to the size of the bathtub.
Mounting two-component foam or special mastic.
Silicone sealant.

This recovery method is one of the simplest and most effective. To implement it, you should purchase an acrylic bath liner.

You can achieve a good result only if the acrylic liner is of high quality. Therefore, when buying, you should definitely require the presentation of a certificate.

Repair procedure:

First you need to prepare the liner by making holes in it for draining and overflowing.
The space near the holes made is lubricated with sealant.
The liner is fixed in place with two-component foam or special mastic.
The foam should be applied evenly over the entire surface of the liner, otherwise voids will occur in which the acrylic will sag.
The consequence of such a flaw will be the rapid appearance of cracks.

Advantages of this method:

can be done without special costs labor and fast enough.
Provided that a high quality liner has been used, the bath will last a long time.
The surface of the acrylic liner is smooth and shiny, it is resistant to wear and does not lose color during operation.

The disadvantages include the need to work before finishing the walls in the room. Otherwise, you will have to beat off the tiles located around the perimeter of the bath.

Using Liquid Acrylic or the "Pouring Bath" Method

Bathroom renovation with liquid acrylic

To perform restoration in this way, you will need a special composition - liquid acrylic, which is sold under the brand name Stakryl. In fact, this method is similar to enameling a bath, but the material consumption is an order of magnitude greater, which means that the layer of the new coating will be thicker. Due to the use of a modern hardener, the material spreads evenly over the surface, so it does not need to be distributed manually.

When using this method, as when applying enamel, careful surface preparation will be required. It will be necessary to thoroughly clean the bath from the old coating, degrease, wash and dry it.

Acrylic coating, unlike enamel, is not applied with a brush, but is poured over the surface (hence the name of the method). Filling begins from the upper sides, then the walls are processed in the lower part and, last but not least, the bottom.

When performing this work, it is required to disconnect the bathroom drain and place a container under the drain hole into which excess material will drain. This ensures that the acrylic is applied evenly.

The coating layer will be about 6 mm. It will be possible to use the bathroom 3-4 days after the completion of the work, since the new coating should have time to dry well.

The disadvantages of this method is its laboriousness, but the coating is better and more durable than when using enamel. This coating is more resistant to mechanical damage, and the large range of colors of the Stakryl material allows you to choose the shade of the bath to your taste.

By applying one of the methods described above, you can successfully repair an old cast-iron bathtub. Of course, if you plan to carry out repairs on your own, then this work will require time and significant labor costs. However, restoration is still cheaper and easier than replacing a bathtub.

After all, cast iron is a very heavy metal, and it is extremely difficult to transport and install bathtubs from this material. If there is no desire or opportunity to carry out restoration work on your own, you can place an order in companies that are engaged in the restoration of the enamel of old bathtubs.