How to change the bearing on a concrete mixer. Rules for working with a concrete mixer and its repair with your own hands Proper preparation of the concrete mix

A concrete mixer is such equipment that not everyone has, but without which no owner of a private house can do in his life.

Indeed, in any construction, whether it is the construction of a garage or the elementary erection of a fence, one cannot do without a concrete mixer. In such cases, it must either be borrowed or bought. If you chose the second option, then this article will be useful to you.

It is known that imported concrete mixers are delivered to our country in disassembled form.

Sellers are not shy to make money at every opportunity and sell this equipment either disassembled or assembled, but 5-10 percent more expensive. Many save and buy a concrete mixer disassembled, deciding that they can cope with this task on their own without any problems. I turned out to be one of those people. Having ordered a Hungarian-made Agrimotor B 1510 FK concrete mixer and received it disassembled, I began to study the instructions.

The seller gave me two instructions. One is official from the manufacturer, and the second is a supplement from the seller. The latter motivated this by the fact that the instructions from the manufacturer are quite confusing and incomprehensible. After studying both instructions, I realized that they are both confusing, inconsistent and incomprehensible. This is what the official instructions look like:

It is worth noting that the pictures show a different model of concrete mixer, which is somewhat different from mine.

Here is the seller's instructions:

Having studied it, I understood what the concrete mixer consists of, but in what sequence and how to assemble it was absolutely unclear.

It’s good that I had an old French Guy Noel concrete mixer, which is almost identical in design to the Agrimotor B 1510 FK.

I started the assembly by connecting the two parts of the pear. To do this, you need to connect them so that the holes for the crown coincide. In addition, it is necessary to combine them so that the holes for the blades are located in such a way that when you screw them (the blades) they are located at an angle and opposite to each other.

After that, we proceed to the assembly of the frame. First, we attach the wheels using special plastic plugs.

I only got one plug in the package, so I had to get out. Instead of the second one, I inserted a champagne cork.

We attach the footboard with wheels to the frame with two bolts. The holes are not adjusted accurately enough, so there was a need for a hammer.

We fasten the second footboard from the opposite side.

Next, we press the cradle with bearings into a pear. This is best done by turning the pear upside down. Unfortunately, out of inexperience, I performed this action when the cradle was already connected to the frame. In this regard, it was more difficult to press the bearings to the desired depth. The cradle was delivered to me with two bearings already put on, so we omit the stage with fixing the bearings on the cradle.

It is necessary to press in until the recess for the retaining ring is visible. Next, you need to install the retaining ring in this groove. The easiest way to do this is with thin pliers. We pass the ends of the pliers into the holes in the ring and squeeze to the desired position. The retaining ring prevents the bulb from detaching from the cradle.

We fix the dust collector, consisting of two plastic parts.

ATTENTION: in the previous photos, it was fixed in the wrong place. Attach it correctly like this:

We install a cradle with a pear on the frame From the side of the footboard without wheels, we install a control disk and a circle. At this stage, I tried for a long time to understand where the spring is placed. As it turned out, it is fixed between the circle and the end of the cradle. We install the spring and fix the circle with a bolt.

After that, we proceed to fix the second retaining ring. It is mounted on the opposite side (engine side). You definitely can't do without thin pliers here. It's good that I bought them for myself a few days before, just in case. Putting the ring on the end of the pliers, spread them and fix the ring. This prevents unauthorized detachment of the cradle from the frame when the concrete mixer is filled with mortar.

We proceed to install the engine. Well, at least the engine did not need to be assembled =). We thread the motor shaft into the hole in the frame and fasten the gear with a tubular corkscrew. The latter comes in rather tight, so he had to be hammered in with a hammer and screwdriver. Be careful with gear installation! It must be installed with the smaller side towards the ring gear.

The engine itself must also be bolted to the frame.

The last thing to do is screw protective cover above the gear on the underside of the cradle. To do this, turn the pear upside down and fasten it with two screws.

Everything, our concrete mixer Agrimotor B 1510 FK is assembled and you can do the first start. I hope you this instruction useful, and you will save nerves and time when assembling your concrete mixer.

Below you can watch a video in which I talk about all the moments of the assembly. Unfortunately, it was not possible to film the entire assembly process on video, since there was no one to film it.

Repair of a concrete mixer is an important issue that sooner or later arises before every builder or owner of this tool. Unfortunately, breakdowns of concrete mixers are a common phenomenon, and there are a lot of reasons for this. Firstly, huge loads are placed on this device. Secondly, often the owners themselves do not pay proper attention to the tool, they operate and store it incorrectly. It is also fraught with negative consequences, which often require repair work. Before you get down to business on your own, you need to study all the information, stock up necessary tools.

Tools

You can only repair if you have experience in similar work. Have you ever had to fix home appliances? Did you bring a car or a moped back to life? Then feel free to start repairing the concrete mixer. If you have never done this before, do not know how to hold a screwdriver in your hands and do not have at least an elementary set of tools at home, it is better to turn to professionals for help. Otherwise, there is a risk of completely losing your concrete mixer.

To repair the unit yourself, you will need a list of tools (of course, depending on the breakdown, the set may change). Among the main ones are pullers (three-armed and for bearings), a vice, pliers, a hammer, of course, screwdrivers, a chisel. Also, you can not do without a set of keys - gas, wrench, adjustable. Prepare the knife, tester and caliper in advance.

Possible causes of breakdowns

Possible reason breakdowns - wear of parts.

There are many reasons why you might need a concrete mixer repair. It happens:

when the unit loads more than the established norms;
the drum is not cleaned in time (this must be done after each use);
the tool is stored incorrectly and in improper conditions.

A special place is occupied by the repair of consumables - belts, drive gears, shutdown buttons.

Part wear, improper storage and operation are the most common causes breakdowns in concrete mixers. But the replacement of thrust bearings and gear rims occurs much less frequently, all because their service life is much longer than the above parts.

Consider the main causes of breakdowns of the main parts of the concrete mixer.

Gears. As a rule, a quick breakdown indicates improper operation. Many owners consider it necessary to periodically lubricate the rims and gears, supposedly this reduces the load on the motor. And completely wrong! In this case, the load only increases. When working, cement / sand clings to the teeth, this increases friction and quickly abrades the metal.
Reducer. It wears out quickly due to poor cooling, overload. In this case, the part remains only to be replaced. There is even a chance that you will have to change the entire assembly.
Toothed crown. It is subject to significant mechanical stress. The material of this part is plastic or cast iron. More often, cast-iron parts come into disrepair (this is due to the low quality of the casting). Therefore, it is better to initially install a plastic crown.
Shutdown buttons. Often the cause of the breakdown lies precisely in them. This is expressed as follows: by pressing the button, the unit (motor) allegedly starts to start, but after a couple of minutes it stops working, stopping. In this case, it is important to replace the button with another one, the main condition is that it must have the appropriate number of contacts.

Types of repair work

Button repair

Buttons in concrete mixers are magnetic actuators, not just an on/off design. This ensures the safety of operation, because when the power is suddenly turned off, the machine will stop, and when turned on, it will not start unexpectedly, thereby harming someone.

If the button has become unusable, slowly remove the casing (by unscrewing the screws that hold it), the button itself. Inspect the part, if necessary, clean the contacts. Also disassemble the button, cleaning it inside.

Belt repair

Sometimes it may happen that the motor works, but the tank does not (no rotation occurs). In this case, the cause may be in the belts. Remove the protective cover of the drive and assess the situation. Most often, the strap just slips off - in this case, you need to put it back in place. Sometimes, even if the belt is intact and not broken, it may not be suitable for further use. So, you can not do without buying a new one. To install it, loosen the bolts that attach the motor (there are two of them), install the belt. Start with a small pulley (near the motor), gradually moving to a large one. It is advisable to use someone's help - it is very difficult to cope on your own, because you need to delay the engine and immediately tighten the bolts. Actions happen at the same time.

With my own hands.

Small tip

In general, I want to say that the concrete mixer is quite reliable. It has already withstood two "self-made" foundations, and this is more than 100 m 3 of concrete, plus plinths for these houses, floors, and so on little things. They make it here in Russia, in the city of Lebedyan. Personally, I bought it from this factory. I immediately bought a pair of belts in reserve, a plastic driven pulley and a drive sprocket.

So first things first:

Concrete mixer button repair

The breakdown manifests itself by turning off the concrete mixer when the button is released. Simply put, press the green button - the stirrer turns. We let go - it, the infection, stops. This is not such a big sadness, and the simplest breakdown, but also the most frequent. The fact is that this is not quite a button, but a KJD17 magnetic starter. The thing is very convenient, unlike a simple knife switch, and made for the sake of our safety. When the light is turned off, the starter button will open, and when the light is suddenly turned on, it (the stirrer) will no longer start as suddenly and will not hurt the poor fellow builder, who at that time decided to put his finger between the gears. That is, it is a simple "protection from a fool." Treating the disease is quite simple.

We remove the casing on which the button hangs.

I have it gray color, screwed with four self-tapping screws ... under a Phillips screwdriver. Just the top of engineering... Developers!!! Try in field conditions unscrew these 4 screws!!! Well, this is a concrete mixer, and picking out concrete from these "crosses" on self-tapping screws is a dubious pleasure !!! Remember you for this best words thousands of users!!! If only they put an imbus there with rubber plugs or something ... In general, the first couple of times you can unscrew it with a screwdriver, and then only with pliers with matyuks.

Okay, open it. Carefully remove the cover and see that 5 wires go to the starter from the inside.

Disconnect them carefully. Unscrew the button (it is also on two screws).

Now this button must be disassembled in order to clean the contacts that are inside. With a thin screwdriver, we press on the two latches that are located on the top and bottom of the button. We remove the front. We see a small "pyatak" with a leg. The leg is slightly bent, so the "nickle" must be put the way it was, otherwise it will not work. Let's take a "patch". WITH reverse side you will most likely see a small black soot. Because of this soot, in fact, the mixer does not work as it should. We clean everything with a soft sandpaper. We look at the core that is in contact with this "penny", we clean it too. We collect everything in the reverse order. We rejoice in the new working day!

I want to draw your attention to the fact that the KJD17 magnetic starter is 5-pin. The fifth contact goes to the emergency thermostat of the engine and, at a certain elevated temperature, cuts off the power from the motor.

Belt

The motor works, tries, buzzes merrily (obviously without signs of anguish and bites), but the agitator does not turn. Fixing it!

The belt is consumable like in a car. SBR-132A is equipped with 5PJ 610 (five-ribbed belt 610 mm long). With its replacement, everything is simple. We remove the protective cover, disconnect the contacts from the starter so as not to interfere. Slightly loosen the two bolts that are on the back side and secure the motor. Raise the motor up a little with your hands and remove the belt. This is if it is still standing there))) Usually, if it buzzes and does not turn, then the agitator removed or tore the belt for you, and nothing needs to be removed. It is put on without much effort, at first it clings to a small pulley that is on the motor. Then it pulls on the top. After you need to tighten the belt. This is best done with a friend. A friend presses on the box, and you tighten those two bolts that you loosened before removing the belt.

pinion gear

The concrete mixer works, turns, and in order to extend the life of the drive gear and rims, you need to get used to the fact that before starting the shift, all these things need to be thickly greased with lithol. We turn the bowl upside down, turn on the mixer and spread lithol on the crowns with a spatula. The stirrer rumbles rather, champing and thereby showing that she is feeling good now))))

Jokes are jokes, and sooner or later the gear will turn into this:

It will begin to slip along the teeth of the crown and deliver a lot of not very pleasant impressions. It's time to change it! I don’t know where to buy, I take it directly at the factory in Lebedyan, since it is not far from us. The gear has 12 teeth and an inner hole for the shaft 14 mm in diameter.

Replacement! With a certain skill, the bowl does not need to be removed, it is enough to unscrew the fixing bolt with a 10 key,

remove the washer and pull out the gear. Carefully! There is a small key there, so you need not lose it. This is in the photo above everything is so easy and accessible, because the pear is removed, and if you are too lazy to remove the pear, then you need to be smart and use all the work fine motor skills fingers to pull it out. But it's real! Checked! 4 times already.

Pulley

The pulley is made of plastic. The shaft on which this pulley is put on is round and milled on one side. So, the whole trouble is that when the hole on the pulley becomes completely round, it turns freely on the shaft. Accordingly, the motor is spinning, the pulley is spinning, but the shaft is not ((((

It would seem, why change it, this pulley? I removed the cover from the motor box, as when replacing the belt, removed the belt and removed the pulley. It seems to hang out, but it doesn’t come off, even if you crack it. But here's the thing: the pulley on the back of the box is attached with a retaining ring, so it doesn't make much sense to make efforts to remove it without removing the box with the motor. Therefore, unscrew the two nuts and remove the two bolts that hold the box to the frame. The box will be removed along with the pulley and a bare shaft will remain. Now it remains to unclench and remove the retaining ring. The pulley will fall out by itself. It is completely unclear why it is impossible to make a pulley not from metal, but out of the corner of my ear I heard that on modern SBR-132 they have already begun to make metal ones. But these are rumors...

If you have already removed the entire box and saw the shaft, then it costs nothing to check it for bearing wear. Turn the shaft with your fingers, make a few turns, if everything is fine, then change the pulley and assemble everything back, if something sticks and the shaft rotates unevenly, congratulations))) you got to replace the bearings. Read the next paragraph.

Bearing replacement

The feeling that the stirrer has become old and there is no longer that former agility. Spins like fast, but does not start the first time. When it seizes, the motor no longer buzzes merrily, but rather hums strainedly. In general, there is a feeling that you need to buy a new mixer, but everything is not so tragic. It's all the fault of a pair of bearings that stand on the shaft, on which a pulley is mounted on one side, and a gear on the other. Here he is, our hero! And two old men who have outlived their own)))

This is a 203 bearing or 6203 according to the international classification. It costs like two loaves of sliced bread, so the repair is not very expensive. We remove the box with the motor, as in the case of replacing the pulley. We remove the pear of the concrete mixer. How to remove it, I will tell in the next paragraph. Remove the drive gear (see above). And we are left alone with this situation.

From the side of the gear, squeeze the retaining ring and remove it. Since I don't have a suitable puller, the shaft had to be knocked out with brute force. To prevent the frame from springing, I had to use a high-tech device called "board sawn to size"))) It looks something like this:

Unfortunately I don't remember the size. In general, carefully, but strongly, substituting a piece of wood on the shaft so as not to bend it, we knock out the shaft along with the bearings.

In the end, we have a shaft in our hands, on which two bearings hang, a bushing between it the size of the outer race of the bearing and a small spacer bushing. If there is a tool, then further manipulations are quite simple. If not, buy - it will come in handy more than once!

We put the puller on the side where the gear was (the key, I hope, has already been pulled out) and press on the shaft, pulling out the bearings.

We change the bearings to new ones, lubricate the shaft with lithol and also put on new bearings with a puller. Or you can pick up a tube for the diameter of the shaft, and carefully hammer them into place, knocking strictly on the inner race of the bearing.

How to remove a pear from a concrete mixer

Also nothing complicated, you need a gas key, open-end for 13 and our old friend- three-arm puller...

We unscrew the lock nut with a gas wrench, and then the pear fastening nut.

Using a 13 key, unscrew the locking bolt on the side. Didn't a pear fall out?)) It's not scary! We install a three-legged puller and calmly squeeze out the shaft.