The drill is considered one of the most popular tools for home craftsmen and is used for many types of work. Due to intensive use, parts of the tool can break, which disables the device. Don’t rush to the service center: it’s quite possible to repair the drill yourself and save a lot of money.
If you know the structure of the drill and the principle of operation of the tool, then do-it-yourself repair products will not bother you.
Regardless of the model or manufacturer, all of these power tools consist of a typical set of basic components.
- Network cable. Many users do not pay due attention to the cord connecting the tool to the network, but according to statistics, 50% of malfunctions of electrical products occur because of it. The cord breaks easily during use, it frequent places The break is the entrance to the handle of the device and the place where the contacts are soldered on the start button. The defect often occurs due to the mobility of the entire button block.
- Capacitor. This small rectangular-shaped part is located in the drill handle and is designed to suppress the resulting interference from sparks.
- Start button. One of the weakest points is that if problems arise in the electrical part of the product, it is tested immediately after the cable.
- Stator electric motor . In the event of a short circuit, a breakdown of the winding may occur - a very unpleasant case; the entire winding must be rewinded. Inside is a rotor or armature.
- Support bearing.
- Location nodes motor brushes. The brushes are made of durable graphite and wear out from long-term use; they can be responsible for the malfunction of the electrical part of the product - during normal operation, each of them sparks. Frequent problems are a wad of dust between the brush body and the rotor.
- Collector. If its contacts are clean, then the rotor rotates smoothly.
- Product body.
- Fan. It is designed to constantly cool the electric drill motor.
- Mode switch.
- Gearbox. Always present in any model, since the cartridge does not fit directly onto the rotor axis.
- The largest gear in the gearbox. Frequent malfunctions: dust and foreign particles get into the lubricant, because of this it loses its properties, and the gearbox quickly wears out and needs to be replaced.
- Two chuck bearings. They bear the heaviest load, so they require periodic inspection and maintenance- removal, washing, replacement of lubricant.
- The axis on which the cartridge is mounted. In hammer drill models, it has a return spring.
- Product cartridge. Its collet mechanism for clamping a drill or various attachments can be of a quick-release type or clamped with a special key.
Any repair of a drill with your own hands must begin with a visual inspection of all parts. The principle here is simple - from simple to complex, i.e. first we check the cord, wiring, contacts, different mounts, then we begin to test the blocks and engine. It does not always come to complete disassembly of the product, but in practice one must be prepared for such a development of events. How to disassemble specific model, the instruction manual will help.
Common breakdowns
Regardless of the build quality and manufacturer, the following malfunctions occur quite often:
- the electric motor fails due to a broken armature or stator;
- extreme wear of brushes;
- bearing problems;
- The speed control button does not work;
- the contacts of the start button oxidize or burn out;
- failure of the chuck clamping the drill due to wear of the jaws.
If you decide to make repairs electric drill yourself, you first need to diagnose and find the fault. It is rarely possible to repair a faulty part on your own; as a rule, it is simply replaced with a new one.
Electrical problems
Before disassembling the drill, you should make sure that it is unplugged. Any disassembly begins with removing the fasteners. Then we unscrew the screws and screws, remove the upper part of the product - all the components remain in the lower part. Electrical diagram of a drill It’s quite simple - there’s no need to separately describe all the elements, everything is already intuitive.
Naturally, for models with electronic adjustments it is much more complicated, but it is unlikely that you will be able to repair a drill with such components yourself; it is better to entrust this to specialists from the service center.
Connection cord
When the power goes out, you just need to change the position of the product - the reason lies in the cable, most likely one of the wires broke. You need to unplug the drill and check it with a multimeter cable. Can be used simplest option- light bulb and battery in one circuit.
Attention! Pulling the cord when the drill is plugged in is strictly prohibited; to avoid a short circuit, you will have to rewind the motor winding.
After checking, you can bend it however you like to find the break point, then part of the cable is cut off, the wires are stripped and new contacts are created for connection. When a break occurs in the middle of the cable, it must be completely replaced with a new one. True, thrifty users prefer to connect broken wires by soldering and then reliable insulation places of repair, but there is no longer complete trust in such a wire.
Power button
This item has a very simple design, but if a problem occurs it will prevent the drill from turning on. Its operation is simple: the key slides in a special block and closes the contacts with a pusher finger. From long-term use inside the block dust is gathering, which prevents the button from moving and blocks it, preventing it from closing the contact circuit. The defect can be eliminated simply by opening it and removing dust with a brush.
Important! Never try to lubricate the sliding surfaces of the button - dust mixes with the lubricant and wear occurs, as a result of which the entire unit must be replaced.
To repair the drill button, you need to remove side wall, check the integrity of the contacts. When carbon deposits have formed, clean the contact with fine sandpaper. If the contact burns, we replace the entire unit.
Rotor brushes
Not all users know that power from the mains is transmitted to the rotor using brushes made of graphite - during normal operation, constant sparking occurs between them and the rotor. There are times when a wad of dust has accumulated between the armature and the brush, and since dust is a dielectric, the drill will not work until we remove the dust and restore contact.
During operation, the brushes gradually become smaller because their lower part is worn out. They need to be inspected and replaced periodically - this is not difficult to do, you just need to have a new set in stock.
When you notice strong sparking in the area of the brushes, and you have changed them recently, this may happen due to problems with the rotor or its collector.
Checking the rotor
For a thorough check, carefully remove the rotor from the stator. The contacts may be charred or have scale - you need to clean them with sandpaper strictly in the direction of rotation. Reason appearance of scale May be long work at maximum speed. How to check the rotor for serviceability? Test the adjacent lamellas with a multimeter - their resistance should be identical.
Do not forget check the winding- whether there was a short circuit with the magnetic circuit housing. If a breakdown is detected, the faulty winding is rewound independently or taken to a service center.
Drill stator
Visual inspection must be done periodically: if overheated, when the product was working with maximum loads, the protective varnish could melt and a turn-to-turn short circuit. In this case, the winding will burn out, and the electric motor is unsuitable for further operation. The check is done in the same way as in the case of the rotor - we check the windings using a multimeter. If a breakdown is detected, the stator winding must be rewinded.
Leading Impact Drill Manufacturers Special attention pay attention to the protection of winding wires, because their products operate in a special mode.
Mechanical damage
Why does the device still not function if you have checked everything and ruled out breakdowns in the electrical circuit of the drill? There can be only one answer - the non-working condition of the product arose due to the presence of mechanical faults.
- Bearings don't work. Dust gets into the lubricant due to a breakthrough in the oil seal, so they wear out quickly and may at some point jam. It’s easy to fix: wash the bearing in kerosene, change the seals, fill it with new grease, preferably a special composition for products with high rotation speeds.
- Broken gearbox- a very serious breakdown, spare gears are needed, or the entire module will have to be replaced. You only need to install the same model. If the drill is a common modification, then buying spare parts for it in stores is not a problem.
- Experts consider another of the most difficult malfunctions damage to cartridge parts.
When working often inner part Drilling waste gets into the chuck and mixes with lubricant, which jams the internal jaws. The cartridge must be disassembled, all parts are washed and lubricated before assembly. If extreme wear is detected, the part must be replaced; if the base or sleeve is severely worn, the entire unit must be replaced.
We tried to talk about all the failures that occur during the operation of electric drills. Remember that DIY repairs are always much cheaper than buying a new product.
An electric drill occupies a special place in the home workshop. Therefore, tool breakage is quite a big nuisance. Despite the complexity of the design, it is quite possible to carry out independent repairs.
1. housing and power cord;
2. key with switching block – can be equipped
reverse switch (speed controller);
3. shaft rotation speed regulator (or reverse switch);
4. gear housing - performs load-bearing functions for rotating
elements;
5. gears and gear mechanism;
6. bearings of the cartridge shaft and motor armature;
7. electric motor;
8. brush assembly of the electric motor;
9. chuck with a mechanism for holding a drill or cutter.
The entire drill never breaks down: one of the elements fails. Having understood the design and interconnection of power tool components, it will be easier to localize the fault.
Algorithm for finding and eliminating electrical failures
Drill repair is carried out according to the principle “from simple to complex”. You should not immediately disassemble the tool down to the screw and evaluate the condition of all components at the same time.
- The drill does not turn on. We start with the power cord (at a minimum, you should check the voltage in the outlet and extension cord before doing this). Having disassembled the case, we find the cable contacts and “ring” them using a multimeter.
Important! Do not test the supply wire with voltage applied! If the current-carrying wires are broken, you can get an electric shock or cause a short circuit.
We connect to the connector of the power plug and the opposite terminal of the cord. Then we bend the cable several times along its entire length. Losing contact or its complete absence indicates the presence of a break inside the insulation. If the fracture of the current-carrying core is close to the edge, the cable is cut and reconnected. It will just be a little shorter. If the break is in the middle of the length, it is better to replace the wire. Splicing will be unsafe.
- The cord is working - check the switch. We connect the multimeter to the terminals and press the key. A large current passes through the contacts, sparking occurs (especially when dust gets into the case). The contacts may simply oxidize. Carefully disassemble the switch body and clean the contact groups with fine sandpaper.
If metal parts break, it is better to purchase a new unit.
- If there is an additional contact group in the circuit between the switch and the electric motor (for example, a reverse switch or speed controller), we diagnose this unit as well.
- Next, we check the connecting wires from the switch to the motor brushes. If they are in order, we diagnose the brush assembly.
The springs must confidently press the brushes against the armature slats, and we check the carbon elements themselves for wear. If necessary, we replace: spare parts are included in the delivery set, or can be purchased in specialized stores. The armature contact lamellas may be oxidized or clogged. They can be gently cleaned with fine sandpaper.
- A more complex breakdown is the failure of the armature or stator windings. Using a multimeter, a short circuit is checked between the unit body and the winding contacts. Then the resistance is measured. The value should be the same on each winding, the spread of readings should not be more than 5%. Faulty windings must be rewound.
- You can do this yourself, or in a repair shop (in any case, it will be cheaper than buying a new engine).
Mechanical faults of the electric drill
Such breakdowns manifest themselves quite clearly. Extraneous noise, grinding, shaft jamming, etc.
- The motor rotates slowly and the windings become very hot. Or during normal rotation a characteristic hum (grinding) is heard. Most likely, the rotor bearings are worn out or clogged. Having disassembled the drill body, carefully remove the rotor. It is removed along with the bearings. By twisting the outer ring, you can immediately determine the malfunction. If the bearings rotate tightly, they must be washed with a penetrating liquid (WD-40 or regular kerosene)
Important! Make sure that no liquids get into the armature winding! Otherwise, the insulating varnish may dissolve and an interturn short circuit will occur.
Then, grease for high-speed units is placed between the races. “Litol” or graphite grease for automobile bearings.
If there is play between the bearing races, the units must be changed.
Dismantling is carried out with a special puller or using an open-end wrench.
If there are no balls, be sure to find them in the body. Fallen objects can get between the parts of the engine or gearbox and damage the entire assembly.
- The chuck shaft bearings are diagnosed and repaired in the same way. You just can't dismantle them without a puller.
- If the mounting location of the outer race of the bearing (bed) is worn out (this happens when the bearing is jammed), it will be necessary to make liners from thin sheet metal. Otherwise, beats will occur when the shaft rotates.
- The engine rotates in normal mode, noise and grinding noises are heard from the gearbox housing. The shaft rotates unevenly. Worn or damaged gears of the gearbox.
We disassemble the housing and inspect the gears.
It is advisable to wash the assembly of old grease and rotate the shaft 360°, controlling the gear engagement. If play or excessive wear of the teeth is detected, the mechanical part will have to be replaced.
Perhaps there is simply accumulated in the gearbox housing a large number of dust. Together with the lubricant, an abrasive paste is formed. In this case, after washing the unit, simply apply new grease.
Advice: The lubricant should be changed periodically, without waiting for a breakdown.
Especially if you often drill into stone walls.
- The cartridge is broken. This is a rarity for cam devices (turnkey), the design is reliable and simple. The unit is exposed to dust, so the internal mechanism may simply jam. Most often, the gripper guides become clogged with small abrasive particles.
If the cartridge does not tighten well, it is enough to blow it with compressed air and treat it with a penetrating lubricant.
Attention: The jaw chucks are not lubricated inside!
Disassembling a part without a special tool is quite difficult. If any component inside is mechanically broken, you will still have to replace the entire assembly.
But quick-release chucks, on the other hand, are easy to disassemble and repair.
They are not as reliable and do not carry the load well. To disassemble such a cartridge, it is enough to remove a couple of lock washers. You will easily find a broken or worn part that will be easy to replace.
How to remove the cartridge?
There are two types of fastening: Morse taper and threaded. In the first case, you need to apply several blows with a small hammer to the back of the cartridge. After which it can be easily removed.
To unscrew the threaded fastening, the shaft is held wrench(there are special flats on the shaft).
There are no malfunctions that cannot be corrected with your own hands. If a separate unit cannot be restored, only it is changed, there is no need to buy a new drill.
To prevent breakdowns, you should follow simple rules:
- After dusty work, blow out the ventilation holes and the internal cavity of the cartridge. Keep the tool clean.
- Do not overheat the engine - take breaks during prolonged use.
- Periodically renew the lubricant on the rotating parts.
A drill is simply irreplaceable in the household today; almost all craftsmen have it in their arsenal. Some models include a striking mechanism, as shown in the diagram that can be seen in Fig. 1. In this case, the device is more functional. The device can be seen from the diagram in Fig. 2, it shows the speed controller under the number 1; under the number 2 - reverse; number 3 indicates the brush holder with the brush itself; 4 is the motor stator; 5 - impeller designed to cool the engine; The gearbox is located under the number 6.
Tool motor design
The drill has a commutator electric motor in its design, which consists of 3 main components, among them:
- stator;
- anchor;
- carbon brushes.
Figure 1. Diagram of the hammer mechanism of the drill.
The first mentioned element is based on electrical steel, which is characterized by the quality of excellent magnetic permeability. It is made according to the cylinder principle and has devices for mounting stator windings. There are two of the latter, and their location is opposite each other. The stator is firmly fixed in the main apparatus housing.
The rotor is represented by a shaft; the latter has a core made of the same steel. Along the latter there are grooves spaced equally apart. The windings are laid with a single wire and have taps that are designed for fixation to the collector plates. This forms an anchor, which has segments in its composition. The collector is located on the shaft shank and is securely fixed to it. During the startup process, the rotor rotates in the internal space of the stator on bearings. Brushes move along the plates during the operation of the installation. They are based on graphite.
Return to contents
Triac regulator
The triac controller located in the start button is responsible for the speed of the installation when the drill is turned on. This regulator is mounted in the button body and is located on a lining made of textolite. The board is designed in such a way that it has small dimensions, which allows it to be completely located in the trigger space. After pressing the power button, an immediate break occurs in the device regulator, at which point the circuit is closed in a scanty period of time. And the regulator is not able to influence the voltage variation, however, the rms voltage level is subject to change.
After the drill starts operating, the network receives AC voltage.
Figure 2. Drill spare parts.
In parallel with this, a sinusoidal voltage is supplied to the control electrode of the triac. During the period when its level is greater than the operating voltage of the triac, the latter opens, which indicates the circuit is closed; at this moment, current flows through the load.
The wiring diagram and connection of the installation button may differ in different models from different manufacturing plants. The most simplified of all the diagrams and the one that best shows the principle of operation is shown in Fig. 3. One wire from the power cord is connected to the speed controller. In the presented figure it is visible electrical diagram device, where “reg. rev." — speed regulator, “1st stage. exchange." — primary stator winding, “2nd st. winding.” - respectively, secondary, “1st brush.” - first brush.
In order not to get confused, it should be remembered that the speed controller and the reverse control system are represented by completely different components of the tool, which in some models even have separate housings.
Figure 3. Typical diagram of a drill speed controller.
Only 2 wires go to the speed controller. And the one that comes out of the speed controller is connected to the beginning of the stator primary. In the absence of reverse, the end of the primary would be mated to the rotor brush, and the second brush would be mated to the beginning of the stator secondary. The end of the secondary goes to the second wire of the cord, from which the drill is powered during operation.
The rotor begins to work in the other direction the moment the end of the primary is connected to the second brush. In the reverse system, such a connection is made; for this reason, the rotor brushes are interfaced with the stator windings through it. In Fig. Figure 4 shows a connection diagram for the reverse device. Wires in the amount of 4 pcs. go to the rotor brushes, those that have gray, go to the end of the primary and the beginning of the secondary.
The system for adjusting the speed of the device involves the presence of a capacitor and the connection of wires that come from the outlet to the regulator. If we take into account the installation from the example, then only two contacts are used, which are located at the bottom. The system is completely devoid of a capacitor, and the second wire of the cord is connected directly to the stator winding.
Many users of electric drills may sooner or later begin to wonder how the drill button is connected to the tool wiring. This question usually appears when a malfunction occurs in the old button, which requires connecting a new one. In this article I will tell you how it should be connected - what goes where.
I will not describe here how to disassemble the body of an electric drill to get to the insides, since I assume that since you are already asking the question of replacement, disassembling the body will not be difficult for you. I think that anyone who does not know how to disassemble the case will not even think about self-replacement anything in the instrument.
So, first you need to purchase a new button. It should match the old one in size and power characteristics, so when you go shopping, take it with you as a sample and write down the exact model of your instrument.
How to detach the old button?
To disconnect it, you will need a thin slotted (straight) screwdriver and a pin. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the existing bolts that clamp the cables coming from the power plug.
The remaining wires are secured with a spring clip. To disconnect them, you need to insert the tip of a pin into the recess where the terminal is located. Thanks to this action, the terminal is decompressed and the wire is removed along with the pin.
When disconnecting, I advise you to leave the wires coming from the capacitor in place so as not to forget which contacts it is attached to. Since it is not attached anywhere else except to the button terminals, they can be removed together and taken in this form to the store to buy a new copy. After purchasing, the first thing to do is plug the capacitor into a new place, after which you don’t have to think about it.
Connection diagram for a drill button with speed control and reverse
Actually visual diagram connection is shown in the image below.
Let me give you a few clarifications.
- The picture shows the most common type of spare part in question. The electrical wires from the power plug are fastened to terminals that are bolted. The rest are stuck into self-clamping contacts. If your button is not like this, then it is better to make notes from the old copy of what is attached where. Also, a diagram can be drawn on the body itself, which can also be used to guide you.
- If you connected the capacitor as described above, then after connecting the wires from the plug, you will only have two contacts on the bottom of the case, where you need to plug in two cables from the stator. They usually have the same position on the stator as in the picture. Their length must be longer than the other two so that they can reach their clamps. In this case, it makes no difference which wire is plugged into which of the two contacts.
- The remaining two electrical wires from the stator, as well as cables from the brushes, are connected to the reverse terminals. In this case, the connection is made diagonally: the wires from the stator are stuck on opposite sides into diagonally located contacts; and from brushes too. At the same time, the only direction in which the cartridge will rotate at a certain position of the reverse trigger depends on where exactly the wires will be inserted. The main thing is to connect diagonally.
This is the connection diagram. I hope that you will be able to connect everything correctly and the drill will work as it should.
Any power tool consisting of electromechanical components, no matter how carefully it is treated, becomes unusable over time. This is largely due to mechanical components that require periodic lubrication.
Carrying out preventative maintenance or repairing a drill yourself is not so difficult if you are familiar with the structure of the tool and understand the principle of its operation.
Operating principle and main components
The drill owes its appearance to the demand for underground drilling to replace manual labor to automated. In 1870, American inventor Simon Ingersoll introduced the progenitor of the impact drill. In its work, the tool used a steam drive and a drill. The advent of electric motors at the end of the 19th century made it possible to improve the instrument. So, in 1889, engineer Arthur James Arnot proposed using an electric motor in conjunction with a drill, and already in 1895 a tool appeared that could be held freely in the hands when working.
In early 1917, Arthur Arnot, working for the BLACK&DECKER company, connected a button to a drill and added a pistol grip, making the device one of the most popular power tools in the world. Since then, the design of the electric drill has not undergone fundamental changes.
A classic drill only works in drilling mode, but with the development of manufacturing technology modern devices began to be equipped with a shock mode. When connected to a 220 volt network, a gear drill, transforming electrical energy into a mechanical one, it forces the cartridge attached to the device mechanism to perform a rotational movement. The number of revolutions of the cartridge is controlled using a rheostat built into the power button, and the direction of rotation is set by reverse. The drill, clamped into the chuck, due to its shape and under the influence of high speed of rotation, easily makes a hole in hard or soft material.
To carry out an impact, the device uses reciprocating movements resulting from the operation of the motor. A ratchet representing a toothed ring is installed on the axis of the cartridge, and teeth are made on the body to create a stop. When the impact drill is switched to hammer drill mode, the ratchet engages and then slides off the fence. The shaft strikes in a vertical direction.
Before you start repairing a drill with your own hands, you need to determine which part of it needs to be restored.
Main parts drilling tool are:
Thus, the electric drill components are divided into electrical and mechanical modules. It should be taken into account that the impact unit has low productivity and, with frequent use of this operating mode, quickly wears out.
Wear of the impact unit not only negatively affects the chiselling work, but also increases the load on the electric motor, causing it to overheat.
Device motor
The engine is the main element of the device that drives the tool gearbox. It consists of a stator and a rotor, while the rotor is a moving part, and the stator, accordingly, is not. The rotor design includes an armature with a commutator. An armature is an engine element assembled from steel plates. Conductive windings are wound on them electricity material - copper. The collector is a cylinder. It is made of dielectric and current-conducting plates, and the armature windings are connected to these plates.
Due to the magnetic flux created around the armature by the stator windings, it rotates, which leads to the occurrence of a torsion moment. Magnetic flux arising under the influence direct current, is always directed only in one direction.
Power is supplied to the windings through brushes made of graphite. The brushes are arranged in such a way that they provide constant electrical contact with an anchor.
The wear of the brushes should not exceed 70-80 percent; if this value is higher, then the contact deteriorates, resulting in sparking in this place. Before replacing brushes, pay attention to the brush holder and clean it if necessary. Thus, the main parts of the electric motor are:
- stator;
- anchor;
- brushes
The easiest way to check the windings is with a multimeter. To do this, touch the brush holder with one contact wire of the measuring device, and touch the contacts of the 220-volt power plug with the second. If the tester shows infinite resistance, then this means the winding has burned out. The operating resistance of the stator winding is in the range of 30−60 Ohms. For example, the popular electric drill Interskol DU-13/580 ER has a resistance of 40 Ohms. When replacing the stator, you will have to disassemble the engine. To do this, four screws are unscrewed and the case is disassembled into two halves. As a result, access to the remaining parts of the engine is freed.
The anchor is connected to the gearbox. Often, by visually inspecting it, you can conclude about its integrity. There should be no scratches or blackening on the anchor. When replacing the armature, it is important to correctly install the bearing with the rubber gasket. With a simple tester it is possible to measure the armature only for a winding break, but to check for an interturn short circuit you will need a specialized device. The measurement is carried out in the mode of checking the resistance between the armature windings on the lamellas. The amount of resistance between all lamellas should be the same.
Speed controller
The speed of the power tool is controlled by a triac regulator located in the device's power button on a special gasket made of textolite. When the button is pressed, an alternating voltage is supplied to the control output of the triac. The triac opens and current flows into the load. When the input polarity changes, the semiconductor device closes. Then everything repeats in a cycle.
As a result, the signal at the output of the triac will be in the form of pulses. The higher the signal level is supplied to the semiconductor, the longer the time it is open, which means the longer the pulse length at its output. The degree of opening of the triac is regulated by a variable resistance, which limits the magnitude of the signal supplied to the semiconductor.
Besides, The rotation speed of the chuck in an electric drill depends on the force of pressing the start button. This is realized by connecting a button with a speed controller. Drills, depending on their type, may have different scheme connection of the switch, but its structure is the same. The button housing contains a contact group and spring-loaded plates (resistors). These plates are made in the form of sliding contacts.
When the button is pressed, they are set in motion and returned to their original state under the action of a spring. The pressure is limited using an adjusting screw with a flywheel. By determining the length of sliding of the contact plates over the resistors, he thereby sets the highest speed of the device. If the flywheel is removed from the structure and unscrewed, then when you press the button, the contacts will simply close and the electric motor will begin to operate at maximum speed.
Connecting an electric drill circuit with reverse and speed control is different, since these are nodes independent from each other. The electrical connection diagram, for example, used in Interskol electric drills, looks like this: the power cord, consisting of two wires, is connected with one wire to the speed controller. The contact wire coming out of it is connected to the beginning of the first stator winding. In the absence of reverse, the end of the first winding is connected to the armature brush, while the second armature brush is closed to the beginning of the second stator winding. The second wire of the cord is connected directly to the stator winding.
Reverse operation is ensured by changing the connection of the stator windings. As a result, the direction changes magnetic field and, accordingly, engine rotation. To do this, the first brush is connected to the beginning of the second stator winding, and the second to the end of the first. Quite often, a winding connection diagram is depicted on the reverse block.
To avoid sparking during switching and filter out interference, a capacitor is used that is connected in parallel with the wires of the power cord.
Disassembling an electric drill
In order to find a malfunction and repair the device, you often have to disassemble the tool. Since all devices are similar in appearance, disassembling them can be represented in the following form:
To lubricate the mechanical parts, you will need to disassemble the gearbox. For this purpose it is removed protective cover, after which the screws are unscrewed and removed top cover. Viscous materials such as Agrinol are used as lubricants. It should be noted that repairing a power tool with your own hands if the gearbox is damaged is almost impossible, since it is difficult to purchase replacements for worn gears separately.
During repairs, you often have to face the need to disassemble the cartridge. It is a quick-release design. Secured with threaded connection or Morse taper. With the first method, you will need to unscrew the fastener using a hex key, and then, placing the key in the chuck, tighten it tightly. The cartridge itself is unscrewed by turning the key. Removing the fastener using a Morse taper occurs by carefully striking the end of the cartridge.
Typical tool failures
Knowing the design of an electric drill, it is easy to determine the reason why one or another of its functions does not work. It should be noted that you can avoid breakdowns of power tools if you periodically carry out preventive maintenance related to replacing the lubricant of mechanical parts.
After finishing drilling work, it is necessary to remove dust from the tool, especially from its ventilation holes. The nature of faults is divided into electrical or mechanical origin.
Electrical damage
This type of breakdown occurs due to excess permissible load on the device and violations in its operation. They manifest themselves in the refusal of the tool to turn on, in a malfunction of the reverse or speed controller. Most often, to restore functionality, you will need to disassemble the start button and clean all places associated with the electrical contact.
The appearance of a burning smell indicates an overload in the operation of the electric motor. In this case, the condition of the brushes and windings is first checked, and the connection points of the power wire are examined to ensure there are no burns. Burning is associated with the ingress of dust, as a result of which the contact resistance increases, which leads to heating. Electrical faults are easily calculated using a multimeter and visual inspection.
Mechanical breakdowns
Mechanical faults are more difficult to detect. This kind of breakdown is usually accompanied by the appearance of extraneous sounds, and it will not be possible to eliminate them without disassembling the instrument. If the drill is poorly fixed in the chuck, it will need to be replaced, since the wear of the gear connection cannot be restored independently.
The appearance of a wedge during operation associated with damage to the gearbox or bearing. If you disassemble the device, the damaged unit will be immediately visible. Wear on gears or splines will indicate the need to replace them. Bearings are checked by rocking them on the shaft. If the movement is not smooth or extraneous sounds are heard, then the bearing is replaced. After you manage to find the faulty unit and repair it, before putting the device back together, you need to clean the gearbox of old lubricant and apply new one. Then the device will be able to serve for more than one year.
