We are opening a workshop for the production of tinplate products. How to make gutters and roofing elements from sheet metal with your own hands Do-it-yourself knee products from tin

Tinplate is a material that belongs to rolled products. This is a variety. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion substances.

For heating equipment, you can make tin pipes for the chimney yourself. This material elastic, therefore processed manually. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

Which tin to choose

Before making a pipe from tin, a suitable one is selected. For chimneys, thin sheet metal coated with a special compound is recommended.

The tin pipe removes smoke and increases draft.

Tin comes in black and white. The black type of material is thin sheet and cold rolled steel. Products are made from steel of various grades. The material is offered by manufacturers in sheets or rolls.

Tinplate is a material coated with tin on both sides, which is processed using electrolytic and hot tinning methods. This material is a low-carbon and thin sheet.

The processing method gives the steel rust resistance and ductility.

Production is accompanied by control of the composition of substances. The processing method and content influence the production of different grades of material.

The white type of sheet metal is treated to improve the surface's adhesion to varnish coatings.

Lacquered sheet metal is used. The varnishing process is used to protect surfaces from external factors.

Black and white type of material comes in the following types:

• single-rolled sheet is a product of low-carbon steel that is processed by cold rolling to the desired thickness;
• metal double-rolled after the first rolling procedure is subject to the second rolling and special lubricant, which reduces the thickness of the product.

The material is classified according to its degree of hardness and the amount of tin used.

Tin pipes have technically universal qualities.

What tools are needed?

Before carrying out tin work, it is worth choosing a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheets with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but before starting work, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

1. Metal shears are used to cut the piece into blanks.
2. Use a mallet or rubber hammer that does not leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected to be heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
3. To make bends, use pliers or pliers.
4. Machines for sheet metal work are recommended. A workbench is suitable that allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it.
5. For calibration, a tube with thick walls and an angle are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen to be massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in making the longitudinal seam of the main line.
6. A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen the nail.
7. A measuring tool is recommended. Tape measures and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round piece to assemble the product. For this, we recommend a pipe with a cross-section of 90 mm and not too long.

Instructions for making a tin pipe for ventilation with a do-it-yourself hood

Making a pipe from a sheet of iron means performing a sequence of actions. The work consists of simple steps. First, preparation takes place, which consists of marking parts and cutting out blanks.

At the stage of forming the body of the structure, an element of circular cross-section is created. When connecting, it is necessary to secure the elements into one product.

You can make markings and preparations in several stages:

1. The tin sheet is placed on the surface without joints. Suitable for this flooring or workbench.
2. A segment is marked from the top edge, which is equal in size to the future highway. The marking is carried out by a marking device. Manufacturing also takes place.
3. A line is drawn through the mark. In this case, a square is used.
4. The width of the segment is marked from the line, which is equal to the cross-section of the pipe. 15 mm per joint is added to the obtained value.
5. The resulting markings are connected, and the workpiece is cut out.

When making markings, it is worth considering the dimensions of the product. Width is the diameter plus one and a half additional centimeters. The length of the workpiece must be greater than the straight section of the structure.

Working with tin with your own hands is done as follows:

1. The folds are bent to the sheet surface at right angles. A line is first marked for them. mallet. The sheet is placed on the edge of the table with a descent to desired length and using a rubber hammer, a bend is made. The work is carried out along the entire length of the product.
2. A do-it-yourself tin pipe requires one more bend on the seam. In this case, marking is performed.
3. A round element is used to construct the pipe. On it there is a galvanized sheet, which is given a rounded shape. In this case, the bent ends of the pipe are connected.

The bends are made so that the mallet fits exactly on the surface of the corner. The blows are made precise and clear, but not strong, otherwise the seam will flatten.

Manufacturing tin products ends with docking. In this case, the edges are aligned, and

the seam is attached. Wherein horizontal section bends down and covers the edge. The protruding seam is bent to the surface using a mallet. The bend is made away from the L-shaped fold. If you do otherwise, water will penetrate inside.

You need to connect tin products with your own hands. The edges are secured with aluminum or steel rivets.

1. Holes for rivets are made every three centimeters.
2. The edges bend towards each other.
3. The workpiece is bent back so that the edges are on the outside of the structure.
4. The edges are mounted using rivets.

To facilitate the connection of the structure, the element on the wide side should be slightly flared. To ensure rigidity at the edges of the product. Correct markings facilitate ease of joining with other elements, even factory-made ones.

Similar products are used for gutters, ventilation systems and chimney structures.

Features of working with tin: how to bend a sheet of iron and cut it

To create products from tin with your own hands, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the nuances of working with this material. Recommendations will help facilitate installation and create a structure in the shortest possible time.

1. An element of the appropriate configuration will allow you to give the sheet of tin the required shape. Bending involves tapping using a hammer.
2. To ensure an even fold, tapping is done close to each other.
3. Will help make cutting a steel workpiece easier special loop leather. This element is mounted on scissors and put on the fingers.
4. After cutting, the edge is processed with a planer, which prepares the hacksaw material.
5. Products made of tin sometimes need to be cut. This is done to give the product a shaped shape. This procedure is performed with a can opener.

In order for the material to be cut well with a knife, it is cut with a hacksaw, and then a knife or scissors is used.

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Tin work is simple and can be done independently. The ability to make such a design will be useful in everyday life. A tin pipe is made simply; the main thing is to know certain nuances of the process.

Despite the many different tin blanks that are sold in construction supermarkets, sometimes when installing gutters, ventilation or other similar engineering systems there is a need to install parts of a non-standard configuration or size. That’s why many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a pipe from tin with their own hands.

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is an ordinary sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequentially rolling the workpiece through the rollers of a rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result to the warehouse finished products steel sheets are supplied, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note!
The material turns out to be very plastic, which allows it to be processed at home.
On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is not inferior in strength to thicker steel.

Considering that the price of tin is also low, it is often used to make many various parts complex shape.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. However, it would be useful to arm yourself with special tools and devices, the list of which is given in the table.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

1. Preparation. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
2. Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a circular pipe occurs.
3. Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

No complicated instructions are needed here, everything is very simple:

• the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
• a segment equal to the length of the future pipe is measured from the top edge (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
• then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the top edge of the sheet;
• on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (and 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
• All marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice!
Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (width of the workpiece) using the well-known formula L = π D, where π is 3.14, D is the diameter of the future part.

Step 2: Molding

After receiving the workpiece, it is necessary to form a round profile of the future pipe.

Here the work is done like this:

1. The line for the folds is marked. Its width is 0.5 cm on one side and 1 on the other. The folds are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the sheet metal. To do this, you can use a steel angle and a mallet.

A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table, offset to the desired length, then struck rubber mallet its edge is carefully bent. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the bottom plane of the angle.

Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To make the procedure easier, you can use pliers.

1. Then another bend is made on the centimeter fold in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to make markings for this bend in advance.

1. After finishing work with the folds, we move on to working on the pipe itself. For this purpose, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, use a mallet to give it a rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the folded edges meet.

Step 3. Docking

All that remains is to align the edges and secure the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is folded down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe using a mallet.

To independently manufacture a round pipe, you will need thin sheet steel, black or galvanized, with a thickness of 0.45 - 0.5 - 0.55 mm . This thickness of material is sufficient for low-pressure or domestic ventilation, exhaust hoods from gas equipment, drainage system. On a sheet of metal, using a sharp metal scriber and a long ruler, draw a pattern for the future pipe. Measure the length of the workpiece equal to the length of the pipe. If the pipe will be inserted into the next one, then add the length of the “bolt” to the length of the workpiece (for example, 7 cm ). Calculate the width of the pattern by multiplying 3.14 by the internal diameter of the pipe in millimeters: D * 3.14 (mm). To the resulting size, add allowances for the seam connection - according to 14 mm on both sides, or 28 mm to the width of the pattern on either side. The final formula for the width of the workpiece: 3.14D+28 (mm). Cut the outlined blank from the sheet using hand-held metal scissors.

Mark and bend along the length of the workpiecetwo edges in different directions for a seam pipe connection. Width of folded edges 7 mm . These edges can also be bent obliquely, for example: for one end of a future pipe 7 mm , and for its other end - 9 mm (or 6 by 8 mm). Then the pipes will be easily and fairly tightly inserted into one another. The sequence for preparing a seam connection is shown in the figure:

To give a straight sheet of tin the shape of a pipe, you will need a thick-walled metal pipe with a diameter of 80 - 100 mm, suspended horizontally from a board or from a flat wall in two “clamps” made of strips of thin sheet steel, as shown in the following figure. Place the pipe pattern with prepared folds into the gap between the board and the suspended pipe, and gradually bend it around the mandrel pipe until the desired shape, after each deflection, advancing (pushing) the workpiece down:

Remove the workpiece from the device, check how correctly and evenly it is “rolled” into the shape of a pipe. Fasten the folds into the lock. Make sure that both folded edges fit securely into each other along the entire length of the joint. Place the folded workpiece (or part of it) onto the section of the rail extended beyond the workbench. Seal the seam of the pipe with a wooden mallet. Place the material along the entire seam, that is, cut it with the edge of a hammer or mallet, creatingthus an additional lock that will prevent the folded edges from moving out of the joint. The reliability of the assembly can be ensured with a rivet.

Irregularities and possible ribbing homemade pipe straighten on the rail wooden hammer- with a mallet. Choose sheet steel for the manufacture of pipe products that does not leave a trace at all, or leaves an inconspicuous mark on the surface when it is bent and unbent. This property of the metal can be checked by slightly bending and immediately unbending the sheet metal in the corner of the sheet. If used to make a pipe roll material, or a galvanized sheet clearly cut from a roll, then it should be cut so that the direction of bending or rolling the workpiece coincides with the direction of the rolled roll - this will reduce the appearance of ribs along the deflection lines. Optimal pipe length 1m or 1.25 meters , which coincides with the transverse dimensions of standard tin sheets.

Mechanized production of thin-sheet steel pipes is carried out on machines different ways, which are briefly described on the page.

Galvanized steel pipes are an integral element of the drainage system of any home. Purchasing ready-made gutters is quite expensive. How you can make drainpipes yourself and thereby save significant money cash, is discussed in this article.

Purchase ready-made elements drainage system is quite expensive. So, for example, a gutter made of galvanized metal costs about 100 rubles/m, a drainage funnel - 160 rubles/piece, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - 110 rubles/m, an elbow for a drainpipe - 110 rubles/piece. If you calculate the cost of all the elements necessary to equip a drainage system for the whole house, you will get a rather impressive amount. The natural question is how to save money? The answer is simple - do all the elements yourself.

Let's do the math. Galvanized iron is required for the drainpipe. The price for a sheet of 2500x1250 mm is 600 rubles. To make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, you need a strip of metal 340 mm wide - this is, in fact, the length of a circle with a diameter of 100 mm, plus bends. One sheet produces 7 stripes with this width. We get: 600 / 7 = 85 rub. for a pipe 1250 mm long, or 68 rubles/m - the cost of one meter of galvanized pipe. Save more than 60%! On other elements it will be even greater.

If the above calculations convince you of the need to learn self-production galvanized pipes and other elements made of sheet metal, then let's start learning. You need to start with the simplest thing - with pipes. How this is done will be discussed in this article.

Required tools and materials

In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we will need the following tools and materials:

1. Wooden or rubber mallet. Generally speaking, the quality of this tool will primarily determine the quality finished product. The mallet should be heavy enough, but such that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
2. Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that they are convenient for cutting metal on large surfaces.
3. A metal corner at least 1 m long, installed on the edge of the workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bent, so it must be stable and quite massive.
4. A steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - a “gun”. Products will be assembled there. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
5. Ruler.
6. Metal scriber. Any sharpened metal rod, up to a large nail, will do.
7. Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal itself is 0.5 mm thick.

We make a galvanized iron pipe with a diameter of 100 mm

1. Cut a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe fits into the next one according to the “male-male” principle.

It makes sense to immediately mark the entire sheet and lay down the segments on each side in turn - on one side 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If you do not plan to connect the finished pipes to each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.

2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. To do this, use a mallet to bend the edges of the sheet 7 mm on both sides, 90° in different directions relative to each other, on a metal corner.

3. Turn the workpiece over, turn the corner up and use a mallet to achieve the angle to approximately 130-150°.

4. Make another bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. Using a mallet, tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, dense and confident. In this case, the mallet must lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.

5. The end result will be a sheet with the following folds along the edges:

6. We squeeze the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.

7. We hook both bends to each other.

8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and hit it with a mallet at the place where the corners meet until they are completely flattened.

9. The pipe is ready.

10. Ideally, you can slightly flare the pipe on the wide side to facilitate joining with each other, and roll rings on both ends to ensure rigidity; however, the resulting pipe is suitable for use. If no mistakes are made during marking, then it will easily fit with other elements, including factory-made ones.

Finally, it should be noted that gutters are not the only use for such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their use everywhere, so the ability to make them yourself will serve you well in saving money more than once.

Galvanized steel pipes are an integral element of the drainage system of any home. Purchasing ready-made gutters is quite expensive. How you can make drainpipes yourself and thereby significantly save money is described in this article.

Buying ready-made elements of a drainage system is quite expensive. So, for example, a gutter made of galvanized metal costs about 100 rubles/m, a drainage funnel - 160 rubles/piece, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - 110 rubles/m, an elbow for a drainpipe - 110 rubles/piece. If you calculate the cost of all the elements necessary to equip a drainage system for the whole house, you will get a rather impressive amount. The natural question is how to save money? The answer is simple - do all the elements yourself.

Let's do the math. Galvanized iron is required for the drainpipe. The price for a sheet of 2500x1250 mm is 600 rubles. To make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, you need a strip of metal 340 mm wide - this is, in fact, the length of a circle with a diameter of 100 mm, plus bends. One sheet produces 7 stripes with this width. We get: 600 / 7 = 85 rub. for a pipe 1250 mm long, or 68 rubles/m - the cost of one meter of galvanized pipe. Save more than 60%! On other elements it will be even greater.

If the above calculations have convinced you of the need to learn how to independently manufacture galvanized pipes and other sheet metal elements, then let’s start learning. You need to start with the simplest thing - with pipes. How this is done will be discussed in this article.

Required tools and materials

In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we will need the following tools and materials:

1. Wooden or rubber mallet. Generally speaking, the quality of the finished product will primarily depend on the quality of this tool. The mallet should be heavy enough, but such that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
2. Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that they are convenient for cutting metal on large surfaces.
3. A metal corner at least 1 m long, installed on the edge of the workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bent, so it must be stable and quite massive.
4. A steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - a “gun”. Products will be assembled there. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
5. Ruler.
6. Metal scriber. Any sharpened metal rod, up to a large nail, will do.
7. Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal itself is 0.5 mm thick.

We make a galvanized iron pipe with a diameter of 100 mm

1. Cut a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe fits into the next one according to the “male-male” principle.

It makes sense to immediately mark the entire sheet and lay down the segments on each side in turn - on one side 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If you do not plan to connect the finished pipes to each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.

2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. To do this, use a mallet to bend the edges of the sheet 7 mm on both sides, 90° in different directions relative to each other, on a metal corner.

3. Turn the workpiece over, turn the corner up and use a mallet to achieve the angle to approximately 130-150°.

4. Make another bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. Using a mallet, tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, dense and confident. In this case, the mallet must lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.

5. The end result will be a sheet with the following folds along the edges:

6. We squeeze the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.

7. We hook both bends to each other.

8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and hit it with a mallet at the place where the corners meet until they are completely flattened.

9. The pipe is ready.

10. Ideally, you can slightly flare the pipe on the wide side to facilitate joining with each other, and roll rings on both ends to ensure rigidity; however, the resulting pipe is suitable for use. If no mistakes are made during marking, then it will easily fit with other elements, including factory-made ones.

Finally, it should be noted that gutters are not the only use for such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their use everywhere, so the ability to make them yourself will serve you well in saving money more than once.