Tin work products made from tin. How to make a galvanized pipe. Advantages and disadvantages of such a pipe

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Cap - a cap made of galvanized sheet metal for a brick pillar.

Choose any height “h”, or taking into account the dimensions of the finished pillar. It is sometimes useful to increase the planting dimensions “a” and “b” by 5 - 10 mm, depending on the quality of the masonry. The size “d” can be “estimated” with a tape measure directly on the pole, or calculated using the formula below.

* Put the pattern front side up. Drill a hole Ф3.5 mm. Bend the stiffeners (15mm) down almost 90°. Bend all dotted lines at an angle of 90°. The bending of the lines should be done in a sheet bending machine, at least in a homemade one of two corners (it doesn’t take long to do). Then the bend lines will be straight, clear, without dents, and the product will ultimately have an aesthetic appearance. If there is no sheet bender, then bend lines “a” and “b” as usual; Bend lines “A” and “B” onto a piece of angle No. 50 - 63 fixed to the edge of the workbench with the shelf up. To bend plane A or B all at once, or almost all of it, use a 25x45 mm block (picket) 30-40 cm long.

Bend the edges along the lines “d” to the correct rectangular shape of the cap or umbrella. To do this, have a narrow mandrel: a 50mm corner with a cut flange, or a metal strip 1.5-2 mm thick attached to it, or even better, a saw blade.

Check the tight fit of the upper (closing) stiffener rib to the rear (rear) plane of the cap. Check again that the product is not distorted; Use a thin marker to mark the response hole (diameter 3.5 mm); punch, drill, and secure the assembly with a 3.2 mm rivet.

Bend the planes along lines “A” and “B” inside the umbrella (in place), holding it with your hands between a strip of metal (2 mm thick, 40-45 mm wide, ~30 cm long); and a block (picket) 25x45 mm of suitable length. If necessary, compact this bend with a mallet. If necessary, slightly settle the top of the closing stiffener rib at the top of the cap.

The lower belt of the cap can not be included in the pattern, but can be made separately. From a strip of appropriate length and width, bend a rectangle with dimensions “a” and “b”; bend the sides in its upper part for rigidity and fastening, and place it inside the cap before the final bending of the planes along lines “A” and “B”. If necessary, secure with a 3.2 mm rivet.

In the manufacture of caps large sizes divide the pattern into two halves, but not along the angular lines “d”, but along the middles of opposite planes-edges. Connect the halves with two slatted “seams”, placing the slats inside the umbrella, with the right side facing the joint. A folded seam, especially on painted material, can (and will) look sloppy. The lower belt for large caps should be made separately.

Appearance of the cap with small height- see the picture of a square umbrella on the "Gas hood" page.

Simplified pole cap with a brick belt:

For support posts and metal poles from profile pipes used in the form of small caps. The plugs are made of thicker metal, usually in the shape of a low pyramid.

For the production of single and double connecting seams, see the "Steel Roofing" page.

The passage unit for the exhaust pipe box in the roof roof.

The box is installed (put on) on a rectangular glass, all sides of which are 3 - 4 mm smaller than the sides of the box. The glass at the angle of the roof slope is riveted with a sheet of the same color as the color of the roof. It is convenient to draw the pattern of the box and installation cup of the cutting on one sheet of tin. With a small height of the structure, the ventilation (or protective, heat-insulating) box can be connected directly to the roofing sheet, i.e. without an intermediate glass.

Mark a rectangular hole on the back (not front) side roofing sheet cutting. The dimensions of the sheet should be taken such that, with a sufficient margin (minimum 20 cm), they cover the areas of the roof adjacent to the pipes, and cover the part of the sheet from the ridge side with the roofing sheet from above.

Check the tightness of the glass on the sheet. Mark matching holes Ф3.5 mm for fastening the rear side. Remove the glass and drill holes. Before final installation of the glass on the sheet, apply sealant or any water-freeze-resistant glue under the mounting sides. Secure the rear side with 3.2 mm rivets; then side and front.

Place the glass and the box (already with an umbrella) one by one on exhaust pipes for their heat and moisture insulation and improvement of appearance. On the side of the roof ridge in the lower part of the structure, additionally install a corner-breaker in front of it to drain the flowing water, especially if the flow pressure increases on a steep or long slope of the roof.

Square umbrella and its pattern, pattern round umbrella for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm - on the "Gas hood" page.

Umbrella, "smoke", weather vane.

Choose any height of the umbrella. If you cut off small sections in the end parts in their upper corner (along the “K” line), then the “smoke” will have two additional windows for exhaust hood. Close these windows from above with a protruding ridge, the ends of which can be cut off figuratively. Along the level of the same line (“K”), you can make one rectangular window at the top of the entire umbrella, which will have to be protected from above by a second umbrella, but of a smaller size. Wind vane - an umbrella with a weather vane; often a weather vane is a combination of two umbrellas of different sizes and shapes; one of its simpler options is on this one. The pattern of the main (large) part can be divided into two identical parts - along the line of its ridge.

Drill four holes Ø 3.5 mm in two end parts.

Bend all the stiffeners along the lines “d” by almost 90°.

Bend the stiffeners 15 mm along lines “A” and “B” by 90°.

Bend the umbrella along the line of the ridge to the corner of the planes.

Bend all lines *60 taking into account the slope of the umbrella planes.

It is advisable to do bending in a sheet bending machine - even a homemade one made from two corners will significantly improve the quality of line bending and appearance products.

Temporarily fix the main part on a flat surface, maintaining dimension “B”.

Place the end piece tightly against the main piece. Mark the counter holes Ø 3.5 mm; drill. Secure the assembly with 3.2 mm rivets.

Make the racks from strips of the same material, folding the strip (width 105-110mm, length about 40cm) twice - that is, in three layers of 35 mm each, WITHOUT SETTING along the fold lines to maintain rigidity.

Marking the holes for attaching the poles to the umbrella:

In terms of size"y" Take 3 cm for an umbrella for boxes or belts made of tin, 6 cm for an umbrella for a brick pipe.

Tee for exhaust hood.

Mark and cut a hole in the pattern of the main pipe "D". The lower drawing shows (as an example) the exact marking of the hole for the entrance d 140 mm to D 150 mm. On the "Gas exhaust" page there is a drawing of the marking of the inlet hole for a tee connecting a diameter of 120 mm with a pipe of 140 mm; and a bend with a diameter of 120 mm, as most often used when installing individual gas heating in a private house or apartment.

Marking an inlet hole with a diameter of 140 mm into a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm:

Prepare the folds, “roll” the pipe “D” into the shape of a pipe, but do not connect the folded seam.

Temporarily install the inlet pipe "d" into the folded (but not sealed at the seam) pipe "D". Align the relative position of the pipes. Draw out the branch pipe “d” (inlet) and cut it along the line of the inlet hole. Along the cut line on the pipe “d”, bend a bead 8 - 10 mm wide as shown in the figure.
Install the inlet pipe into the tee from the inside of the “unfastened” flow pipe “D”, fasten the folds, check the tightness of the parts. Seal the folded seam, drill matching holes Ø 3.5 mm - secure the assembly with rivets Ø 3.2 mm. If necessary, add any sealing material to the connection line from inside the tee: putty, paint, sealant.

When installing a hood from gas equipment, from a heating boiler or from a water heating column, special attention should be paid to the tightness of the connections.

Corners, ventilation and flue outlets.

A simplified method for marking the mating line of branch links is presented, which gives, although approximate, a pattern that is quite applicable in practice. Reducing the number of bend links (angle) increases distortion and the need for adjustment (trimming) during assembly. Precise patterns of bends are constructed using descriptive geometry techniques.

Pattern and marking of the mating line of the links of a three-link bend at 90 degrees.

For the exact (in numbers) marking of the pattern line for an outlet with a diameter of 120 mm, see the "Gas hood" page. The pattern and marking of the connecting line of the links for a five-bar 90 degree bend is on the page "Tee, bends, transitions". Mirror the patterns on the left side of the patterns to the right side.

Connect the marking points into a smooth line, mirror the resulting pattern on the right.

Pattern and approximate marking of the line of conjugation of two links of a right angle:

A pattern is given in the drawing right angle ninety degrees for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Feeder for rabbits.

Pattern for making a bunker-type feeder from galvanized sheet. The drawing shows the dimensions of the parts of a feeder with a capacity of 3.5 liters of dry bulk food.

Assembly with rivets can be replaced resistance welding or spot soldering.

Drill all the holes in the parts of the first (test) copy. Make cuts along the edges of the fold lines of the back and inner walls. Bend the sides of the fastening 15 mm by 90 degrees. Bend the 25 mm line of the rear wall inward by approximately 135 degrees, giving the shape of a feeder tray. Bend the inner and rear walls to their working positions, using the side walls as a jig. Make sure the holes match. If necessary, correct their location on the parts of the following copies. Connect the inner wall with both side walls using 3.2mm rivets. Invest in back wall, install rivets.

The feeder can be supplemented top cover and elements for fastening to the cage.

Drainage funnel, drainage gutter.

Dimensions, figured edge of the top and artistic elements of the water inlet funnel are at the discretion of the artist. It is useful to increase the width of the strip for cutting each section of the gutter following the water flow by 1 - 2 mm.

Due to the large amount of material, some drawings and drawings have been moved to other pages, in accordance with their topics.

Patterns for a confuser, a diffuser, a transition from a round section to a round one of a different diameter (bucket), from a rectangular section to a round one, to a rectangular one - are on the page "Drawings, diagrams, site drawings".

Good day, dear guest!

First sheet with electroplated rolled off the assembly line of one of the British factories back in 1867. True, at that time the metal was covered exclusively with gold and silver. But before the First World War, the production of parts with a protective layer of zinc began to be produced, and since then they have been incredibly popular.

This is not surprising - zinc extends the life of iron by 20-30 times. Products made of galvanized steel are durable, do not rust, and behave in everyday life no worse than stainless steel, although they are much cheaper.

In today’s article, I propose to pay more attention to this modest material and tell you how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a pipe

Galvanization is primarily steel, a material that has many undeniable advantages.

These include:

Strength,
Ability to withstand high temperatures,
Excellent thermal conductivity,
Low cost compared to other materials.

But without protective coating Ferrous metal is susceptible to corrosion, quickly rusts and becomes unusable. Galvanizing successfully solved this problem. And, despite the fact that galvanized and steel pipes are the same in shape, the galvanized product has a number of advantages.

Additional advantages of galvanized products:

Corrosion resistance, ability to withstand negative environmental influences,
Increased service life,
Increased strength
Wide operating temperature range,
High resistance to mechanical stress,
Galvanized pipe can withstand high internal and external pressure,
Simplicity and ease of installation,
High fire resistance,
Zinc kills all pathogenic microorganisms,
Galvanization is practically not inferior in quality to low-alloy stainless steel, but costs an order of magnitude less.

But, like any engineering solution, a galvanized iron pipeline is not ideal.

Not very attractive design
Expensive compared to regular steel
Zinc complicates the welding process,
Unlike plastic, if there are protrusions on the walls, ensure smooth transition in a structure made of galvanized pipes, it is almost impossible.

Make it yourself or order it

What is better, buy a galvanized sheet of the required thickness and bend the pipe yourself, or go to the store and buy a finished product?

As usual, let's start with the price. A finished pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 3 meters will cost you and me about 500 rubles. The cost of the material in this case is 150 rubles, the rest is labor costs and the seller’s markup.

What if you plan to organize an entire drainage system? You can see for yourself that you will have to overpay for finished products by 2.5-3 times. Making your own pipes will greatly ease the financial burden.

In addition, factory products have strictly defined dimensions, and sometimes it is difficult to choose the right one for your system. And the thickness of the finished pipe usually does not exceed 1 mm.

You should definitely remember that any factory-made product, unlike a home-made one, undergoes strict quality control control, has a perfectly round surface and a precision weld.

Will he be able to House master Ensuring compliance with all these conditions is far from a fact.

Which material to choose

If you have decided to make the part yourself, you should start by choosing the material, in our case, a galvanized sheet of the required thickness.

Material characteristics

Thin sheet steel coated with zinc in the factory must comply with GOST 14918-80. Main characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing:

The most common galvanizing thicknesses are from 0.35 to 3mm. The thinner the sheet, the easier it is to process, which is important for making products at home. But don’t forget – less thickness means less strength.

Zinc coating thickness

There are 3 classes of material, in accordance with the thickness of the zinc coating layer. Let's summarize the data in a table for convenience.

How to make the perfect galvanized pipe with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
Advantages and disadvantages of galvanized pipes, material characteristics. Step-by-step instruction, which will help you make a galvanized pipe with your own hands, size calculation, drawing and diagram.

With the use of new technologies in construction, the need to use tin pipes is gradually disappearing, but the question of how to make a pipe from tin is of interest to people who like to do everything in the house with their own hands.

Which tin should you choose?

How to make a pipe out of tin? What kind of tin is best suited for this type of work?

Thin sheet metal is an excellent material for homemade baths and smokehouses. Tin is a thin sheet of steel that is susceptible to corrosion. For the manufacture of beautiful drainpipes, as well as weather vanes, canopies over chimney pipes, covers over chimneys with your own hands or original filigree lace, galvanized iron roofing is used.

Tip: tin pipes can also be used as samovars; they increase draft well and also remove smoke.

What tools are needed?

Before you start making a tin pipe with your own hands, you need to take care of the tools and materials that you will need.

Making tin pipes with your own hands involves using the following:

thin galvanized iron roofing sheet (thickness 0.5-0.7 mm),
metal cutting scissors,
metal strip,
wooden hammer (mallet),
simple hammer,
pliers.

Metal cutting scissors

Advice: in order for a tin pipe to turn out beautiful and even, it is necessary to take a sheet of iron with a smooth and even surface, and also so that the corners are straight, and not torn or unevenly cut.

Instructions for making a tin pipe

How to make a pipe out of tin? Where to begin?

Making pipes from tin begins with drawing up a drawing. Draw an unfolded pattern of the future pipe on an iron sheet.

Tip: the pipe pattern can be drawn with chalk or any sharp object.

When marking a pattern, the following points must be taken into account:

the width of the workpiece should be equal to the diameter of the pipe plus an additional one and a half centimeters,
the length of the workpiece is slightly longer than the straight section of the pipe.

Scheme of blank for pipe seam

Using metal scissors, cut off the drawn pipe blank.
Place the workpiece on the edge of the workbench.
Along the length of the iron sheet, draw a fold line on one side; it should be half a centimeter.
Align the line drawn with the edge of the corner on the layout.
Using a mallet, bend the edge of the sheet of iron down.
Turn the sheet over and, with light blows of a mallet, bend the edge to the sheet.
Turn the workpiece over and on the other side bend the edge 1 centimeter wide, but in the other direction.
Fold the edge again, so in profile this bend will look like the letter L.
Insert the workpiece into the mandrel, carefully bend the edges of the pipe towards each other.

Tip: you can use a mandrel - this is a sector or template of a pipe of the required diameter, but you can do without it.

Connect the edges into a lock so that the smaller edge hooks onto the larger edge.
Seal the edge using pliers.
Using a hammer and an iron bar, lay the edge on the sheet and tap it well.

Bend the fold on the pipe

The edges of a tin pipe can also be fastened using steel, aluminum or tin rivets.

Drill holes for the rivets at a distance of three centimeters.
Bend the edges at right angles towards each other.
Bend the sheet of tin blank in the opposite direction so that the edges are located on the outside of the pipe.
secure the edges with rivets.

Tip: a DIY tin pipe fastened in this way is not very convenient to use. The result is a not very attractive external seam, which has to be hidden when installing the pipe.

Features of working with tin

To give the sheet metal material the required pipe shape, you need to bend it using pliers or a hammer around an object of the appropriate cylindrical shape.
You can make your own tin pipes using a metal or wooden cylinder.

Advice: the bend of the sheet metal should be even along its entire length; this can be achieved by lightly tapping with a hammer, and the blows should be as close to each other as possible.

Making tin pipes is impossible without using metal shears. It will be much easier to work with such a tool if you attach a leather loop to its handle.
The metal is cut with one hand, putting a leather loop on the fingers.
The edge of a sheet of iron after cutting with scissors can be cleaned with a plow made from a small old piece of hacksaw blade.
A drainpipe made of tin, which is already ready for installation, in some cases needs to be cut (for example, when it is necessary to make a curved edge of the pipe for drainage).
To do this, it will be convenient to cut the pipe with a knife, which is intended for opening canned food.

Tin drain pipe

Advice: in order for the pipe to be cut well with a knife, you first need to cut it with a hacksaw, and only then use the knife.

Cutting process tin pipe

When working with tin, you sometimes have to use a file. Very often it becomes clogged with metal filings and quickly fails.
In order to clean it, you can use a copper spatula or a soft metal tube, while flattening its end.

It is not very difficult to make tin pipes with your own hands, the main thing is to follow these recommendations and be extremely careful, as you can get injured by the sharp edges of the tin sheet cut off.

How to make a pipe from tin: instructions
229) How to make a pipe from tin: making tin products with your own hands.

You can buy galvanized pipes freely, but the cost of such products can be quite high, so the desire to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands is dictated, first of all, by considerations of economy.

At the same time, the production of galvanized pipes does not require the use of special efforts, special expensive devices and tools and any professional knowledge, so any home craftsman who has a set of standard carpentry tools can cope with this.

Characteristics of galvanized pipes

Pipes made of galvanized metal are used to equip chimneys; they are popular due to their light weight and, accordingly, ease of installation. Galvanized chimneys do not require the construction of a foundation, and this significantly reduces the cost of chimney equipment.

Such pipes meet the standards fire safety, withstanding temperature regime up to 900°, so they can even be used for smoke removal from solid fuel heating boilers and furnaces.

Galvanized pipes are also used in home construction to equip drains. Such pipes are already quite affordable in cost, but the process can be made even cheaper by using hand-made products.

What you need to make a galvanized pipe

At home, to make a galvanized pipe, you need a sheet of tin; the material does not require much effort due to its softness and ductility.

Tin plates are industrially made from thin sheet steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm on rolling machines, after which they are coated with an anti-corrosion protective layer of chrome, tin or zinc. Finally, the workpieces are cut according to standard sizes, width from 512 mm to 2000 mm.

The strength of such products is in no way inferior to their steel counterparts, especially if the material has additional stiffening ribs, but at the same time it is very plastic and allows the installation of pipelines of complex shapes by hand. Anti-corrosion coating protects the pipe from the effects of the external environment.

The problem with such pipes is insufficient bending strength, therefore, for the manufacture of open parts, stiffeners are added to the structure to strengthen the product.

The stores offer a wide range of such pipes of various sizes: single-circuit,
double-circuit (made in the form of a sandwich and consisting of an internal and external pipe),
corrugated, characterized by increased flexibility.

Note! At home, it is technically possible to make only a single-circuit pipe.

When choosing sheet thickness, the purpose of the pipe should be taken into account. For example, a galvanized pipe for smoke removal from solid fuel stoves and fireplaces must have increased resistance to high temperatures, and at the same time high anti-corrosion properties.

It is important! The higher the temperature of the working environment, the thicker the pipe walls should be.

Tools

To work, you need special tools to bend, correctly measure the bend angle and cut the pipe to the required length.

A set of tools that will be needed for work:

Note! The blades of the scissors should not be dull; the formation of a smooth edge of the product depends on this. When cutting with a blunt instrument, nicks are formed that must be removed. To avoid unnecessary work, it is important to monitor the quality of sharpening.

hammer with rubber pad, mallet ( carpentry tool made of wood in the form of a hammer),
bending pliers,
workbench for cutting and marking,
a pipe for calibration measuring more than 100 mm and an angle with edges of 75 mm,
ruler or tape measure,
marker (sharpened steel rod).

Instructions for making galvanized pipes

First of all, you need to mark the sheet of iron by drawing fold lines of folds on one side measuring 5 mm, on the other two times 5 mm each, the fold on one side should be wider than the second in order to form a strong seam in the future. Bend the sheet at an angle of 90° on both sides using a corner and pliers.

It is important! The form should be bent gradually, moving from one edge to the other along the fold line.

Then, turning the workpiece, form folds, bring the angle to 135-140°, tapping the edges of the tin with a mallet or hammer with a soft striker carefully so as not to damage the material of the product. After forming the folds, you can proceed to forming the pipe itself.

Fix the workpiece on the calibration template to give it the desired shape, and tap again until the folds are connected.

The wide edge is once again bent parallel to the plane of the product at an angle of 90°.

The last stage is connecting the ends together with a flat seam using a mallet.

Align the folds, bend the horizontal part of the second fold, wrapping it around the first fold, and then bend this seam, pressing it tightly to the plane of the pipe.

You can further strengthen the joint with metal rivets using welding machine, although most often galvanized pipes connected using a flat seam do not require additional reinforcement.

How to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands?
Galvanized pipes are already quite affordable in cost, but the process can be made even cheaper by using hand-made products. Tools and instructions for creating a pipe with your own hands.

Home builders try to select the most suitable solutions for problems. budget options. Therefore, the question of how to make a pipe from tin with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a homemade pipe product made from tin can be compared with gutters or casings that are on the shelves in specialized stores.

Therefore, you need to learn in more detail the process of manufacturing a tin pipe that has characteristics similar to factory products.

Features of the source material

Before you start making a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should become more familiar with the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that this is a rolling type product, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.

In addition to rolling operations, the technology for producing tin plates involves processing the finished rolled products to prevent the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.

The result of the performed actions is a steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. The finished product is flexible, so tin can be easily processed by hand. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength to steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex designs.

Required Tools

The list of tools and devices necessary for making a galvanized chimney pipe with your own hands is determined by the properties of tin, in particular softness and ductility. Processing this type of material does not require the special efforts required to work with sheet materials.

Therefore, when producing tin chimney pipes, the following set of tools is required:

Scissors for cutting metal. This tool makes it easy to cut sheet material into the required pieces, since the largest thickness of the sheet reaches 0.7 mm.
Hammer with a soft striker. You can also use wooden hammer, mallet, or steel tool with soft rubber pad. However, the latter option is used very carefully or not at all, as it can cause deformation thin sheet tin and ruin all the work.
Pliers. With the help of this tool they solve the problem of how to bend a pipe made of tin, because it is steel, although thin, therefore it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
Crafting table. This device is necessary when cutting material and when applying markings.
Calibration element. This can be a pipe product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well secured, since the joining seam will be riveted on their surface.

In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a marker, which is a steel rod with a sharp sharpening.

Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands

The production of tinplate products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:

Preparatory work involves marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a sheet of tin.
Forming involves shaping the profile of a pipe or other product.
In the finale, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.

And now more detailed description each stage of making tin pipes with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, according to which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut from a certain sheet of tin, from which the contour of the future pipe will be formed. The marking process is carried out as follows: the sheet metal is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the top edge. A mark is placed here with a marker.

Then, using a square, draw a line along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. In this case, about 1.5 cm is added on both edges to form the joining edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.

To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can remember your school geometry course.

How to make a pipe body from tin

The purpose of this stage is to form the pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and top along which the folds will be folded. In this case, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 90 0. To do this, the workpiece is laid on a steel corner, aligning the fold line with the edge of the corner. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it to the perpendicular side of the corner.

Now, on the fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to form a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to ensure that the upper bend is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing a fold line, measure 0.5 cm once on one side, and 0.5 cm twice on the other side.

Having completed the molding of the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, place the workpiece sheet on the calibrating element and start tapping it with a mallet or other suitable tool to get a profile of a certain shape. First the workpiece takes U shape and then becomes round. In this case, the folds should join together.

Processing the seam joint

The final stage involves processing the joining seam, that is, crimping it. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich located perpendicular to the pipe. To obtain a joining seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.

For greater reliability, the joining seam is strengthened using rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this joining method do not require additional reinforcement.

How to make a pipe from tin - making tin pipes with your own hands
How to make a pipe from tin: how to bend a tin pipe, do-it-yourself galvanized chimney, making it from a sheet of metal

The joining of the edges of thin sheet metal is most often done in a lock - by clamping one edge to the other, but occasionally other methods are used, which may be needed more often in the work of a young master. These are the methods.

The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile method, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt connection (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is required. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). In fact, it is not tinsmiths who do this anymore, but coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. A butt connection can be made more durable by soldering with inside plate (3). This will be a butt with an overlay. A more durable connection is an overlap (4). One edge is overlapped with the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient. You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and compress them with blows of a mallet. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It's done like this. One piece's edge is bent at a right angle, the second's edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. WITH reverse side it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when connecting in this way. The sequential progress of work is schematically depicted in the following figure:

All kinds of tin products are most often connected with a double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use connections using rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, eyelet, strip, etc. Occasionally, rivets are used to strengthen the seams into an overlay and a simple lock. They are usually riveted with small rivets, preferably with wide flat heads, using a cold method. For rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them, you need to have a piece of iron with holes of different diameters, or a riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up into a pound using a hammer or pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted. These rivets are soft, but, of course, do not have the neat appearance of solid rivets.

Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will be detrimental to the work. How and why will be seen later.

The main and very first job of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since further processes depend on it. It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam connections, for edges, for inserting bottoms, and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten in any way. If the metal is flattened in the bend, it will expand. The edge of the fold will come out curved and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is bent wide, this has almost no significance. But where greater precision and grace are required, it will be very noticeable. Let us explain with an example what we can achieve. Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock. They bent the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that the seam is very difficult to connect; the folds turned out to be bent due to riveting the metal with a hammer.

Therefore, folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a crowbar, iron strip or corner of a scraper.

The work happens in this order. First of all, draw a fold line with a thicknesser. The thicker the metal and the rougher the work, the wider the fold can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet metal the fold is 3-5 mm). Place the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) along the fold line, and with quick and precise blows with a mallet, beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.

Then they bend the edge of the fold at a right angle, place it with the outer side on the anvil and straighten it with the inner side with blows of the mallet.

Let's assume that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.

It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the folded fold will be larger than the diameter of its inner circumference. Consequently, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge and weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken into left hand, mark the width of the bend from the inside with a thicknesser and apply it to the edge of the support or crowbar at an obtuse angle, after which they hit the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating off the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly. Having gone around the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper towards the anvil, and continue working in the same order. It is repeated again and again, decreasing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such gradual knocking out, the fold will be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the slab and straightened with blows of a mallet.

To such a cylinder with a rebate, you can already attach the bottom with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom you need to bend the rebate or solder the bottom with solder.

Just as the fold on a cylinder is bent, this is also done when the edge of a tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The bend should come out smooth, you need to make a flap on the metal, calculating the width of this flap based on the thickness of the wire that will fit there.

The width should be approximately three times the diameter of the wire, adding a little for the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they place it on the stove, insert the wire and secure it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel. Using a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, the lapel is finally pressed and smoothed. Turning the product over with the edge up, straighten the rolled edge on top. If the lapel turns out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing it from above with a mallet and pulling the blow outward. On products with straight edges, rolling the wire into the edge is, of course, even easier.

From processing techniques thin metal, based on riveting and pulling metal, the young master should definitely become familiar with knocking out. By hammering out a flat piece of metal, it is given a variety of convex shapes. In this way, you can knock out the bottoms and lids of boilers, hoods and a variety of streamlined parts for airplane models, skins for ship models, etc. We already had a similar job above - this knocking out a bucket.

Tapping is a job that requires patience. You can't hit it once or twice with a hammer and get good hood. It is necessary to slowly tap with a hammer, constantly moving the product, gradually increasing the depth of drawing and finally straightening and smoothing the surface of the product with light blows.

There are basically two ways to pull. The first method is when the metal is flattened on a convex anvil, starting from the middle to the edges. The middle will be thinnest, but the product will be convex. The work is carried out with an iron hammer. According to the second method, they are beaten out with a mallet or a hammer with a round end on a mandrel (matrix) having the appropriate shape.

As an example, let’s take the beating out of the same bucket. On a wooden stick or thick board, you need to make several round notches of varying depths. They are cut with a semicircular chisel and then smoothed with blows of a round hammer. A round piece of metal is placed over the first recess and hammered out with a hammer or round mallet until a properly rounded surface without wrinkles is obtained. The same technique is repeated in subsequent, deeper matrices. In conclusion, we will obtain a bucket according to the profile of the matrix. With a different profile and a different cutting we could get a different shape.

Sometimes the young master will have to knock out longitudinal grooves on thin metal plates. The cross-section of such a plate will be shaped, and the plate will acquire rigidity.

As in any other business, marking and cutting the material, starting work, is a very important operation on which further success depends. It is clear from this that this work requires special care and accuracy. The most simple work is the cutting and making of a simple open rectangular box with straight or diverging sides, with or without a toe.

A rectangle of appropriate dimensions is cut out from a sheet of tin (a). When cutting, you need to take into account the bottom area and the height of the walls. Using a thicknesser, draw a line of folds. One corner is cut off if you need to make a sock in the box. Turning the sheet over onto the board, use the toe of a hammer to cut off the bisectors of the corners at the corners approximately to the border of the future folds of the walls (b). Turning the sheet over again, bend the sides (c) onto the edge of the anvil (piece of iron), but not completely. They are trimmed at the rectangular end of the anvil and bent with a mallet close to the wall (d). The cut corner for the toe remains unbent; it is slightly flattened, making a groove out of it. The box is ready (d).

The work, as you can see, is not at all difficult, but it must be done carefully.

Cutting and manufacturing cylindrical shapes will not present any particular difficulties. For the cylinder, you need to cut out a rectangle with a height equal to the future pipe, and a length of 3.14 times the diameter of this pipe, with an increase for rolling the seam.

When making conical products (bucket, funnel and others), all working techniques will remain the same, only when cutting you will have to remember the geometry. All conical objects must be correctly depicted in the scan, and this is the most important thing.

Let's take the simplest cutting method. Let's try to make a conical bucket. First of all, you need to draw its middle section along the axis. It will appear in the form of a trapezoid; continue the sides of the trapezoid until they intersect. The intersection point is the center from which two arcs are drawn - from the long base of the trapezoid and from the short one. You will get a ring, part of which will be used to make the surface of the conical bucket. The width of this ring is the height of the bucket. You just need to remember to add more to roll up the top edge and fold the bottom.

The length of the part of this ring we need is determined by the diameter of the bucket. About three diameters with an increase for a double lock is what you need to take from the ring. Setting aside 3.14 times the diameter of the outer hole or bottom of the bucket along the upper or lower arc, draw a line along the radius. The increases for the double lock are made parallel to these radial lines. This will result in cutting out the surface of the bucket. They also accurately draw any conical shape, be it a whole or a truncated cone: the height of the figure is plotted along the radius, and the length of the scan along the circumference.

Tinplate is a material that belongs to rolled products. This is a variety. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion substances.

In order to make such a pipe you will need only 2-3 tools

For heating equipment, you can make tin pipes for the chimney yourself. This material elastic, therefore processed manually. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

Which tin to choose

Before making a pipe from tin, a suitable one is selected. For chimneys, thin sheet metal coated with a special compound is recommended.

The tin pipe removes smoke and increases draft.

Tin comes in black and white. The black type of material is thin sheet and cold rolled steel. Products are made from steel of various grades. The material is offered by manufacturers in sheets or rolls.

Tinplate is a material coated with tin on both sides, which is processed using electrolytic and hot tinning methods. This material is a low-carbon and thin sheet.

The processing method gives the steel rust resistance and ductility.

Production is accompanied by control of the composition of substances. The processing method and content influence the production of different grades of material.

The white type of sheet metal is treated to improve the surface's adhesion to varnish coatings.

Lacquered sheet metal is used. The varnishing process is used to protect surfaces from external factors.

Black and white type of material comes in the following types:

single-rolled sheet is a product of low-carbon steel that is processed by cold rolling to the desired thickness;
metal double-rolled after the first rolling procedure is subject to the second rolling and special lubricant, which reduces the thickness of the product.

The material is classified according to its degree of hardness and the amount of tin used.

Tin pipes have technically universal qualities.

What tools are needed?

Before carrying out tin work, it is worth choosing a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheets with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but before starting work, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

Metal shears are used to cut the piece into blanks.
Use a mallet or rubber hammer, which does not leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected to be heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
To make bends, use pliers or pliers.
Machines for sheet metal work are recommended. A workbench is suitable that allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it.
For calibration, a tube with thick walls and an angle are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen to be massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in making the longitudinal seam of the main line.
A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen the nail.
A measuring tool is recommended. Tape measures and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round piece to assemble the product. For this, we recommend a pipe with a cross-section of 90 mm and not too long.

Instructions for making a tin pipe for ventilation with a do-it-yourself hood

Making a pipe from a sheet of iron means performing a sequence of actions. The work consists of simple steps. First, preparation takes place, which consists of marking parts and cutting out blanks.

At the stage of forming the body of the structure, an element of circular cross-section is created. When connecting, it is necessary to secure the elements into one product.

Adapters for connecting sheet metal pipes

You can make markings and preparations in several stages:

The tin sheet is placed on the surface without joints. Suitable for this flooring or workbench.
A segment is marked from the top edge, which is equal in size to the future highway. The marking is carried out by a marking device. Manufacturing also takes place.
A line is drawn through the mark. In this case, a square is used.
The width of the segment is marked from the line, which is equal to the cross-section of the pipe. 15 mm per joint is added to the obtained value.
The resulting markings are connected, and the workpiece is cut out.

When making markings, it is worth considering the dimensions of the product. Width is the diameter plus one and a half additional centimeters. The length of the workpiece must be greater than the straight section of the structure.

Working with tin with your own hands is done as follows:

The folds are bent to the sheet surface at right angles. A line is first marked for them. mallet. The sheet is placed on the edge of the table with a descent to desired length and using a rubber hammer, a bend is made. The work is carried out along the entire length of the product.
A do-it-yourself tin pipe requires one more bend on the seam. In this case, marking is performed.
A round element is used to construct the pipe. On it there is a galvanized sheet, which is given a rounded shape. In this case, the bent ends of the pipe are connected.

The bends are made so that the mallet fits exactly on the surface of the corner. The blows are made precise and clear, but not strong, otherwise the seam will flatten.

The production of tin products is completed by joining. In this case, the edges are aligned, and

the seam is attached. Wherein horizontal section bends down and covers the edge. The protruding seam is bent to the surface using a mallet. The bend is made away from the L-shaped fold. If you do otherwise, water will penetrate inside.

You need to connect tin products with your own hands. The edges are secured with aluminum or steel rivets.

Holes for rivets are made every three centimeters.
The edges bend towards each other.
The workpiece is bent back so that the edges are on the outside of the structure.
The edges are mounted using rivets.

To facilitate the connection of the structure, the element on the wide side should be slightly flared. To ensure rigidity at the edges of the product. Correct markings facilitate ease of joining with other elements, even factory-made ones.

Similar products are used for gutters, ventilation systems and chimney structures.

Features of working with tin: how to bend a sheet of iron and cut it

To create products from tin with your own hands, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the nuances of working with this material. Recommendations will help facilitate installation and create a structure in the shortest possible time.

An element of the appropriate configuration will allow you to give the sheet of tin the required shape. Bending involves tapping using a hammer.
To ensure an even fold, tapping is done close to each other.
Will help make cutting a steel workpiece easier special loop leather. This element is mounted on scissors and put on the fingers.
After cutting, the edge is processed with a planer, which prepares the hacksaw material.
Products made of tin sometimes need to be cut. This is done to give the product a shaped shape. This procedure is performed with a can opener.

In order for the material to be cut well with a knife, it is cut with a hacksaw, and then a knife or scissors is used.

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Tin work is simple and can be done independently. The ability to make such a design will be useful in everyday life. A tin pipe is made simply; the main thing is to know certain nuances of the process.

For self-made round pipes will require thin sheet steel, black or galvanized, thickness 0.45 - 0.5 - 0.55 mm . This thickness of material is sufficient for low-pressure or domestic ventilation, exhaust hoods from gas equipment, drainage system. On a sheet of metal, using a sharp metal scriber and a long ruler, draw a pattern for the future pipe. Measure the length of the workpiece equal to the length of the pipe. If the pipe will be inserted into the next one, then add the length of the “bolt” to the length of the workpiece (for example, 7 cm ). Calculate the width of the pattern by multiplying 3.14 by the internal diameter of the pipe in millimeters: D * 3.14 (mm). To the resulting size, add allowances for the seam connection - according to 14 mm on both sides, or 28 mm to the width of the pattern on either side. The final formula for the width of the workpiece: 3.14D+28 (mm). Cut the drawn blank from the sheet hand scissors on metal.

Mark and bend along the length of the workpiecetwo edges in different directions for a seam pipe connection. Width of folded edges 7 mm . These edges can also be bent obliquely, for example: for one end of a future pipe 7 mm , and for its other end - 9 mm (or 6 by 8 mm). Then the pipes will be easily and fairly tightly inserted into one another. The sequence for preparing a seam connection is shown in the figure:

To give a straight sheet of tin the shape of a pipe, you will need a thick-walled metal pipe with a diameter of 80 - 100 mm, suspended horizontally from a board or flat wall in two "clamps" made of sheet steel strips, as shown in the following figure. Place the pipe pattern with prepared folds into the gap between the board and the suspended pipe, and gradually bend it around the mandrel pipe until the desired shape, after each deflection, advancing (pushing) the workpiece down:

Remove the workpiece from the device, check how correctly and evenly it is “rolled” into the shape of a pipe. Fasten the folds into the lock. Make sure that both folded edges fit securely into each other along the entire length of the joint. Place the folded workpiece (or part of it) onto the section of the rail extended beyond the workbench. Seal the seam of the pipe with a wooden mallet. Place the material along the entire seam, that is, cut it with the edge of a hammer or mallet, creatingthus an additional lock that will prevent the folded edges from moving out of the joint. The reliability of the assembly can be ensured with a rivet.

Irregularities and possible ribbing homemade pipe straighten on the rail with a wooden mallet. Choose sheet steel for the manufacture of pipe products that does not leave a trace at all, or leaves an inconspicuous mark on the surface when it is bent and unbent. This property of the metal can be checked by slightly bending and immediately unbending the sheet metal in the corner of the sheet. If used to make a pipe roll material, or a galvanized sheet clearly cut from a roll, then it should be cut so that the direction of bending or rolling the workpiece coincides with the direction of the rolled roll - this will reduce the appearance of ribs along the deflection lines. Optimal pipe length 1m or 1.25 meters , which coincides with the transverse dimensions of standard tin sheets.

Mechanized production of thin-sheet steel pipes is carried out on machines different ways, which are briefly described on the page.