DIY table for a hand-held circular saw. Do-it-yourself circular: drawings, video, description Detailed diagram for manufacturing an elevator for a circular

Purchase circular saw- it’s one thing, but the amount of work that needs to be done with the tool is completely different. The construction worker does not always know how much material he will have to cut in a certain amount of time.

The opposite also happens - the need to purchase a table for a circular saw arises immediately after purchasing the equipment.

But what if the need arose by chance or the cost of the product in the store is confusing? The answer is simple - make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands. A step-by-step consideration of the issue follows.

General design requirements

To the number mandatory requirements relate:

• rigidity (stability) of the structure;
• smooth, Smooth surface table;
• safe fastening of the saw;
• the presence of a guard from the cutting disc;
• easy access to start and stop buttons.

Availability additional functions depends on the requirements of the work and the wishes of the master. These include the ability to perform high-quality longitudinal and cross cuts.

It is advisable that the table frame includes legs, rather than solid sheets of plywood or chipboard. In the latter case, the convenience of work comes into question, since it is uncomfortable for the operator to stand at the machine.

Standard products, of which there are hundreds in stores, are made from of stainless steel. This is an excellent material, but next we consider the production of a table for a circular saw made of wood.

Design features

It is characterized by simplicity. Experienced craftsmen are able to create a table for a circular table without any diagrams or drawings. The table consists of two main elements - the base (legs) and a smooth surface for laying workpieces.

The circular saw is mounted on the inside (bottom) side of the table upside down, and a cut is made in the table itself for the working part - the disk. The width of the slot should slightly exceed the thickness of the disk (by 1-2 mm), but no more, otherwise chips and dust will clog the device. So it will fail early.

It is recommended to choose a tool with a power of no more than 1.2 kW. The more powerful the saw, the more durable and stable the table will be needed. As a result, the user will overpay for the tool and invest more money in materials, but the result of the work will not change.

As for the diameter of the disk, it should be as large as possible, since the tabletop “eats” part of it work surface and reduces the depth of cut.

It is better to take a tool with a stamped steel sole; The cast base will crack easily when drilling holes.

After homemade table for a circular saw will be assembled; the manufacture of longitudinal, transverse and angular stops is allowed. They will make the user's work easier, increase efficiency, but in this material will not be considered.

Necessary equipment

A sheet of plywood or Chipboard thickness from 2 cm. This size is enough to securely fix a heavy circular saw with inside countertops. Also for production you will need:

• directly the tool with the cutting disc;
• edged board 50x100 mm;
• a 50x50 mm block for the legs (or a smaller section, depending on the power of the saw);
• antiseptic and wood varnish;
• wood glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• electric jigsaw;
• milling machine;
• clamps;
• ruler (tape measure) and pencil;
• plane;
• medium to fine grit sandpaper.

When the listed materials and tools are at hand, it’s time to get to work.

Preparatory stage

Here, the first thing to consider is the length and width of the future table. The optimal dimensions are 1200x1200 mm. The oblong hole for the saw blade is selected based on the diameter of the latter and slightly exceeds it.

A circular saw installed under a tabletop should not tip the table to any side. The tool is located strictly in the center of the product.

Suitable materials for the base are chipboard, chipboard, MDF, OSB, plywood. Metal is not considered, as it will make the structure heavier and cost more. Plastic is the worst material and is not recommended by experts.

Everything before assembly wooden elements tables are treated with antiseptics and agents that increase resistance to rot. After complete drying, the materials are adjusted to size and the production of the table begins.

Main part of the work

You can assemble a table for a circular table with your own hands (with drawings) in the following way:

Production and preparation of tabletops

The prepared material is marked with a pencil and tape measure (ruler) based on the required dimensions. Next, cut the template with a jigsaw and mill the edges. Armed sandpaper medium and then fine grain, the future tabletop is processed until the surface is smooth.

Next, turn the tabletop over and mark a place on it for the sole of the circular saw. To do this, you just need to put the tool down and trace the sole, having first removed the disc. Using a milling cutter, select a recess from 5 to 10 mm, depending on the height of the sole.

Drawing tool attachment points

The saw is tried on the notch, then the places where it is fixed and the slot for the cutting element are marked.

Preparing stiffening ribs for table legs

These are boards 50x100 mm. They are placed at a distance of 8-10 cm from the edge of the tabletop along the perimeter. The board is applied with the smaller side to the tabletop, traced on one side, and the markings are transferred to the other.

It is advisable to immediately mark the position of the screws and drill holes for them. Fasteners will be located every 10-15 cm along the length of the stiffener.

Marking for longitudinal stiffeners

Based on the dimensions of the table for the circular saw, mark out the longitudinal stiffening ribs and cut them out. They are fixed directly with glue and tightened with clamps. After the first ones dry, similar actions are performed with the side stiffeners.

Fixation with self-tapping screws

The clamps are not removable. Along the perimeter, the structure is tightened with self-tapping screws along pre-drilled holes.

The caps of the fasteners must be completely recessed into the tabletop.

Stiffening ribs

You will need longer self-tapping screws than those used to secure the ribs to the countertop. After screeding, the clamps can be removed. The tabletop is ready!

Making legs

A timber with a cross-section of 30x30 mm is taken. The length of the legs should ensure ease of use. Usually the distance from the floor to the tabletop is 110-120 cm, so the legs are made a couple of centimeters shorter.

After sawing out the legs, they are applied to the tabletop, and will be placed slightly at odds. The bars are fixed with bolts on the outside of the stiffeners.

To increase the rigidity of the structure, it is permissible to make additional timber ties between the legs

Mounting a circular saw

It's a small matter. The circular saw is placed inside the prepared hole. The sole is bolted, and the toothed disk should fit into the slot without any obstruction.

The table for the circular saw is almost ready. Now it needs to be treated with a moisture-protecting material, then varnished in several layers (to minimize slipping).

The resulting design can be supplemented with anything at the discretion of the user ( protective cover, device for adjusting the tilt of the disk, carriage and others).

A few words about electronics

A circular saw is an electrical equipment that operates when there is a 220 V power source nearby. If the user has sufficient knowledge and experience in the field of electronics, he can bypass the start and stop keys of the saw, and then take them to comfortable spot(usually this is the outer side of one of the stiffeners).

If the circuit seems complicated, it is worth pulling the start key with a wire, and turning on the equipment with a power cord. But this method is bad in that it excludes a quick shutdown of the tool in the event of an emergency.

Work safety requirements

One of the causes of injuries when working with a circular is the clutter of the workplace. It is also important to monitor the stability, strength of all structural elements, and in case of imbalance, take measures to eliminate problems.

Before turning on the saw, you need to make sure that it is well secured. If necessary, tighten the screws/bolts.

It is strictly forbidden to hold onto the material close to the cutting site! This is fraught with the risk of knots and chips rebounding into the eyes or onto open parts of the body. Be sure to wear glasses and long sleeves before work.

Making a table for a circular saw on your own is not such a difficult task as it might seem. If you have on hand good material, its parameters are chosen correctly, and the power of the tool varies from 500 to 1000 W, the above instructions will become the basis of the work.

Do not forget that at each stage of the manufacture of the table, it is necessary to check the accuracy of your own actions. Otherwise, if there are deviations in size or deformation of the legs during the screed of the stiffeners, it will be very difficult to restore stability. Nevertheless, making a table for a circular table with your own hands is a very real task for a couple of hours, which has already been completed by thousands of people.

Useful video from foreign colleagues

The video shows the process of making a table for a circular saw by our foreign colleagues. Interesting and educational video

Most people who work professionally with wood would like to have everything at their disposal necessary machines. But unfortunately, this is not always possible. Some people don't have the space to do it, others, and I think the majority, it's money. Any, even the most primitive machine is quite expensive.

But what’s stopping you from just doing it yourself? Nothing is impossible for a person with intelligence. For every carpenter, a circular saw is the main tool. But it happens that only a hand saw is available, and this is not always convenient for large volumes of work. In order not to purchase a separate tool, you can make a stationary mini saw yourself for ease of work - make a sawing table (stand) for it.

Table saw

When choosing a circular saw, you need to be guided by the following characteristics:

• Saw power. If the amount of work is quite large, it is advisable to take a tool with a power of at least 1.2 kW.
• Cutting depth. The thickness of the material to be processed depends on this parameter. U hand saws this is 40–70 mm. But when installing it in a table there will be a decrease of around 10 mm.
• Button placement. The design of the sawing table must provide free and safe access to all control buttons, otherwise it will be necessary to modify the control system yourself.
• Rotational speed. For cutting wood, high rotation speed is preferred. This affects the cutting quality. For plastic, for example, this is not very good. Due to the high rotation speed of the circle, the plastic heats up. You need to choose average characteristics. 3-4 thousand rpm will be enough.

Do-it-yourself table for a circular saw, installation, fastening

To make the saw table itself, you will need to acquire materials that are sold at any hardware store.

We will need:

• plywood 15–20 mm thick;
• timber 50*50 mm;
• boards, approximately 50*100 mm;
• switch;
• socket;
• self-tapping screws;
• PVA glue;
• rollers;
• metal corners.

Making a workbench

1. Mark and cut a tabletop from plywood the right size. Clean the surface with sandpaper.
2. At the bottom of the tabletop we mark places for holes for attaching the saw. To do this, you need to remove the blade and install the saw in the right place, making notes. The holes for the bolts are countersunk on the surface, and the heads of the bolts need to be sanded.
3. If the material will be cut at different angles, the hole for the disk should be made in the shape of an inverted trapezoid.
4. Mark the places where the stiffening ribs are attached to the tabletop (from below, at a distance of about 8 cm from the edge). The legs need to be secured to the ribs. The ribs are screwed on with self-tapping screws at intervals of 25 cm and glued with PVA.
5. The legs are made from timber 100 cm long. Then a screed is made from timber for additional strength.
6. To be able to adjust the height of the table legs, nuts and M14 bolts are attached from below.
7. We fix the saw from below.
8. We attach the socket to the inside of the table. From it we pull the wire to the switch.
9. We make a parallel emphasis. We cut two strips of plywood, the same length as the width of the table. The width of the stripes is 10 cm. We make the corners round. We sand both strips and fasten them with self-tapping screws. Then we cut two strips of the same length, but three times wider. We fasten them. This will be the guide. We fasten the stop and guide. We set a right angle relative to the disk. We attach the rollers.

Table drawings for a circular saw

There are other ways to make a bed for manual circular saw with your own hands. Here are two more examples.

Table for hand-held circular saw with lifting mechanism

To change the depth of the cut, you can additionally install a lifting mechanism (elevator).

Myself lifting mechanism we mount with metal sheet, which is attached to the frame on the machine. Lifting will take place along the guides by tightening the bolts.

One way is to install the adjusting rod with fixation nuts. Instead of rods, we use studs. The adjustment handle is made from a plate welded to the end of the stud. At a distance of 4–5 mm from the center we make holes for self-tapping screws. We weld a rod to the edge of the plate, which we will use to rotate the structure.

Conclusion

From the experience of many people, we can say that although such machines do not look very attractive, with the right and diligent approach, they are no worse than factory ones, such as Interskol, and have no less service life. The big advantage is that the cost of such a machine will be three times lower. In addition, you can make a machine “to suit yourself,” which will greatly increase labor productivity.

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is precisely longitudinal sawing blanks How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

• base;
• sawing table;
• parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element– parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

1. Circular saw or you can use.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Grinder (Angle grinder).
4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

1. Plywood.
2. Solid pine.
3. Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
5. Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
6. Self-tapping screws.
7. Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

• The base of the transverse part;

1. Longitudinal part

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part;

1. Clamp

• Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

• flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage made of (or, as an option, you can whip up a false table), which is not too bad to be deformed or damaged. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

• The base of the transverse part;
• Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
• End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars– the upper and lower ones have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

, 2 pcs.);
• The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to secure our entire structure to circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.