If you are building new house or you are doing a major overhaul in the apartment, you will definitely encounter problems in the electrical part. It is best not to redo the existing household electrical network, but to carry out the wiring again, having thought through the location of the switching devices to the smallest detail. In this case, quite natural questions will arise - what should be the height of the sockets from the floor, where the switches are installed?
Basic Options
There is no such thing as officially accepted standards. There are only recommendations and requirements on how to install sockets and switches regarding communications (gas, water, heating pipes). Otherwise, the main thing is that the operation of electrical equipment is comfortable and safe.
Whether you install the switches yourself or seek the help of a professional electrician, keep in mind that there are two most common options at what height from the floor you can mount them:
- installation of sockets and switches according to the so-called "European standard";
- "Soviet" installation system.
All these concepts are conditional, in fact, European standards and Soviet systems do not exist, it’s just that it’s more convenient to distinguish and determine what the installation height of sockets and switches should be.
The first option became widespread relatively recently, when it became fashionable in the post-Soviet space to conduct repair work in homes and offices and call it "European renovation".
There are no differences between repairs in Europe, America or Russia, they can be either good and of high quality, or not very good.
But it so happened that a good and high-quality repair was associated with punctual and accurate Europeans and received the prefix "euro". And the one that was not very identified with everything Soviet and earned the appropriate name.
The "Euro" option assumes that the height of the socket from the floor is 0.3 m, and the switch is 0.9 m. According to Soviet standards, the switch was mounted at the level of the shoulders and head of an average person (1.6-1.7 m), and the sockets - 0.9-1 m from the floors.
Option for placing sockets for TV on video:
It is impossible to say which of these two options is preferable, everything here is purely individual. In the "euro" version, in order to control the lighting, there is no need to raise your hand up to turn on the switch, it is at a comfortable level of the lowered human palm. In addition, such a switching device can be turned on and off by a child.
The location of the switch at a distance of 1.6-1.7 m is beneficial when it is necessary to install some furniture under it (wardrobe, bookcase, refrigerator).
The "Euro" socket, located almost at the very floor, is a danger to a small child who has just learned to crawl and is interested in everything that caught his eye. In this case, of course, it is preferable to mount sockets according to the Soviet version at a level of 1 m from the floor.
But as for the sockets, which are constantly connected to some kind of equipment, such as a TV, computer or music center, it is better to mount them as close to the floor as possible so that the wires do not stretch through the entire wall and do not spoil appearance rooms.
General requirements and rules
Electricians have a main regulatory document - Electrical Installation Rules (PUE). Some "specialists" neglect this document, but then the quality of the wiring installation falls on their conscience.
click to enlarge
The rules are created in order to be guided by them, so we will give you the main recommendations, what is the distance from the floor to the socket or switch in different rooms:
- In utility or utility rooms, the height of the mounted sockets from the floor is within 0.8-1 m. It can be increased to 1.5 m if the wires are brought from above.
- It is very important that the distance from the switching devices to the gas pipes is more than 0.5 m.
- In residential and office rooms, the height of sockets from the floor should be such that it is comfortable to connect electrical appliances to them. It all depends on how the interior of the rooms is decorated, as well as on their functional purpose, but it is not recommended to mount sockets higher than 1 m from the floors.
You can install sockets on special baseboards made of non-combustible materials.
- The installation height of the switches varies from 0.8 to 1.7 m. It is recommended to mount them on the walls from the side where door handles. If lighting are controlled by cords, it is allowed for them to install switches under the ceiling.
- In rooms where children are constantly present, the height installed sockets and switches is regulated by a figure of at least 1.8 m from the floor level. Very important condition: all sockets in childcare facilities must have automatic protection, which, after pulling out the plug, will close the socket.
- Installation of sockets in bathrooms and shower rooms of baths, in saunas and laundries is prohibited. They may only be installed in apartment bathrooms and hotel rooms. But they must be protected by an RCD (residual current device), and also located in zone 3 (the division of bathrooms into zones will be discussed below). Sockets in bathrooms must be installed no closer than 0.6 m to the doors of the shower cubicle.
IN Lately the installation of floor models of sockets has been widely used, power is supplied to them in special plinths (cable channels). They are very good in terms of design (they are almost invisible), but care must be taken during wet cleaning of the premises so that water does not get into them.
There are in our residential buildings rooms that deserve a separate discussion about the installation of sockets in them. This is a kitchen, stuffed with a huge variety of different household appliances, and a bathroom, which is a dangerous room due to dampness, increased importance. We will talk about these premises in a little more detail.
Kitchen
The main condition for the electrical network element installed in the kitchen is that it should not be closer than 0.6 m to water pipes and sink. The same applies to gas pipes and stoves, it is necessary to maintain a distance between them and sockets (switches) of at least 0.5 m.
About the design of sockets in the kitchen in the video:
In general, with electrical kitchen wiring, the situation is the most difficult. Firstly, there are many communications here - heating, plumbing, sewerage, gas. Secondly, there are much more household appliances that require a separate power supply in the kitchen than in any other premises (washing machine, water heater, hob, electric oven). In this case, it is necessary to mount the sockets in such a way that they always have open access.
In kitchens, the installation of these switching devices is best done at three levels from the floor:
- The first level (or lower) is 0.15-0.20 m. At this level, sockets are mounted for electrical appliances that require a permanent or long-term connection to the network (washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, electric stove, waste shredder).
- The second level (or middle) is 1.0-1.2 m. At this height, switches are made for lighting elements and sockets for household kitchen appliances (microwave oven, tester, blender, food processor, electric kettle, bread machine, coffee machine, multicooker, etc.). P.). Choose a more accurate distance yourself, depending on the configuration of the furniture in the kitchen.
To make it convenient to turn on the plugs of household appliances, place the sockets a little higher than the countertop.
- The third level (or upper) is 2.0-2.5 m. exhaust fan, additional lighting of working areas, TV. Neither the switching devices themselves, nor the cords going to them, kitchen interior they will not spoil, because they are almost invisible behind the furniture (wall cabinets).
It is allowed to place sockets under the countertop or inside kitchen cabinets. To do this, special holes must be made in the walls of the furniture. This will help save some space without disturbing the overall look.
The minimum distance from the floor to the socket must be at least 0.1 m, otherwise water may enter it during wet cleaning (floor washing).
Bathroom
This room is conditionally divided into several zones:
- Zone 0 ( inner part the bathtub itself or the shower tray).
- Zone 1 (external vertical surface of the bathroom).
- Zone 2 (this is, in fact, zone 1, increased by 0.6 m).
- Zone 3 (the rest of the bathroom).
Sockets can only be installed in zone 3. Even if you really want to mount them near the mirror so that it is convenient to use a hair dryer, electric razor or hair clipper, you absolutely cannot do this (if the mirror is not in zone 3). In addition, the sockets must be IP44 rated, due to the fact that the bathroom is constantly humid.
- socket for connection washing machine can be set at a level of 0.3 to 1.0 m.
- Additionally, in order to connect small household electrical appliances, sockets are installed at a height of 1.1-1.2 m.
- To connect the boiler, it is better to mount the switching device at a height of 1.7-1.8 m.
In bathrooms, placing sockets lower than 0.15 m from the floor is prohibited. This is due to the familiar situation when they forgot to spin water faucet or household appliances broke down, resulting in a flood.
The ingress of water into the switching devices is unacceptable!
Clearly about the location of sockets and switches on the video:
Switches are usually placed outside the bathrooms.
As you can see, there are no strict rules in the placement of outlets. There are only useful tips, recommendations and individual requirements. Be sure to take them into account when planning the installation locations of switching devices.
During the replacement of electrical wiring, it is necessary to decide what will be the height of the sockets from the floor. That's right - to decide, because there are no strict regulations and standards.
At what height can
Norms and standards governing the location of sockets and switches in rooms and premises general purpose No. There are only restrictions on the maximum height for sockets - no higher than 1 meter from the floor, as well as standards that relate to wiring in rooms with difficult conditions operation. In houses and apartments, these are bathrooms.
So all the same, at what height should the sockets be installed? There are two options:
Where to place the switch
Switches are easier to deal with. They should be placed so that most family members can use them comfortably. It is convenient to turn on / off the light with a lowered hand. Lower your hand, mark the level of the palm. This is where the keys can be placed. This location is also ideal for children. They can reach this level already in 3-4 years. That is, adults will not have to turn on the light for the child if he wants to play or go, for example, to the toilet.
But this is far from the only option. In the bedroom, for example, you can. They allow you to control the light from several points. In this case, one switch is placed near the door and one or two near the bed. So you can turn off the light without getting up. Very comfortably. The installation height of such a switch is somewhere on the level of the mattress on the side of the bed.
Choosing a place for sockets in the rooms
Choosing a place to install outlets is more difficult. They can be placed at least at floor level. By the way, there are floor models, the wiring of which goes in a special plinth with a cable channel. From the point of view of design, such an installation is the most invisible - they do not rush into the gas. But from the point of view of operation, it is far from ideal. To insert/remove the plug, you will have to bend or squat very low. For young people, although this is inconvenient, it is not problematic, but for older people, this location can be a problem. If there are elderly people in the family, it is desirable that the height of the sockets from the floor be at least 30-40 cm. In this case, you will have to bend, but this slope cannot be compared with the previous placement method. This is a compromise option - and quite convenient, and not very striking.
Near the table, the height of the sockets is above the tabletop
But not all power points in rooms need to be installed this way. For example, if the height of the sockets from the floor near the desktop is 40 cm or so, it will be very inconvenient to dive under the table every time. In such a place, it is better to put them 10-15 cm above the level of the countertop. This is really convenient.
Height of sockets in the kitchen
Wiring in the kitchen is a whole system. Firstly, each powerful device has a separate power line with a circuit breaker and RCD installed on it. There can be up to 10 such appliances (dishwasher, oven, electric stove, washing machine, electric water heater, built-in appliances high power). These sockets must be brought out to the place where you plan to put the devices.
Leased lines for powerful electrical appliances
A dedicated line is needed for a refrigerator. But the reason here is not the increased power consumption, but the power surges that the refrigerator motor creates when it is turned on and off. It is better that other devices feel them to a minimum, and perhaps this is if there is a separate line. The socket for the refrigerator can be made at any height - at least 5 cm from the floor, at least at the level of the elbow (110-120 cm).
A dedicated power line with an RCD and an automatic machine is required for a gas heating boiler. It requires a stable voltage, and a separate line is a must. This outlet must be located taking into account the fact that a voltage stabilizer will be required (if it is not installed in the entire apartment or house). The best option is on the side of the boiler. Left or right, as circumstances permit.
Choose the height depending on the connected equipment
For built-in household appliances, the height of the sockets from the floor is 10 cm (this is from the floor to the center of the socket, and from its lower edge - about 5 cm). They are placed on the wall behind the equipment. The location is such that you can reach through the plinth. At the same level, they put a power point for the washing machine. It can be made even higher if the sink cabinet does not have a back wall.
For lighting and hoods, sockets are made above the cabinets. Their bottom edge is 5-10 cm above the cabinets. The backlight switch is brought to the working wall, placing it immediately under the upper cabinets.
Can be done this way. The main thing is ease of use
The rest of small household appliances are usually placed on the desktop, so it is convenient to connect them almost immediately above the countertop. The height of the sockets from the floor in this case is 110-120 cm. This will be about 15-20 cm above the countertop. Just the way we need it. If you order a non-standard height, adjust the position of the sockets accordingly.
Sockets for small kitchen appliances are grouped in three or four pieces side by side. It is convenient for operation and more acceptable for installation. Decide which technique it will be convenient to work with, count the number of units that will need to be turned on at the same time, add one or two “just in case”. This will be the required number of outlets. Their height is the same 15-20 cm above the countertop, that is, relative to the floor it will be 100-120 cm.
In the bathroom
The second problematic room for electricians is the bathroom. But the problems here are of a different nature - this is high humidity and the possibility of water ingress. To understand where to put sockets in the bathroom, you need to know where you can place household appliances. The bathroom is divided into zones (see photo).
Zone 0 is the highest probability of water intrusion. These are areas directly adjacent to the bathroom, shower, sink. In this zone, only 12 V sockets can be installed. But such voltage is rarely supplied in private homes. It's just that there are no outlets at all.
In zone 1, installation of water heaters is allowed. In zone 2, in addition to boilers, you can put fans and lamps. And sockets should be in zone 3 - at a distance of at least 60 cm from the water source. It is necessary to install special sockets and switches, the degree of protection of which allows them to be used in wet rooms. Also, a prerequisite is the presence of grounding, an automatic device and an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA.
The height of the sockets from the floor is again not regulated, but it makes sense to put them higher: to minimize the possibility of water ingress. Even if you put special sockets with covers, it’s better to play it safe.
Wiring Rules
When laying wiring to sockets and switches, certain rules must be observed:
- The layout of the room is strictly horizontal, stepping back 20 cm from the ceiling.
- From the junction box, the wire goes vertically upwards.
Why such strictness? So that in any conditions you can understand where and how the wiring goes. If you lay it arbitrarily - obliquely, along the shortest path, etc., in a few years no one will remember where and how the wires pass and hanging, for example, a new one, you can easily get into the wiring. By adhering to these simple rules, you can always visually determine where the wires go - above the outlet or switch, no matter how high they are from the floor.
Both the construction of new housing and the holding overhaul in a house or apartment implies a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes the organization of the input of a common power line, the creation of a ground loop and potential equalization, the installation of a switchboard with an energy metering device, the laying of in-house electrical networks and mounting junction boxes, and, finally, the installation of lighting devices and user electrical fittings - switches and sockets.
By and large, this is, of course, a task for electrical specialists. However, many works can be done independently, provided that home master there are basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, organization of internal electrical networks and skills in general construction and electrical work. But it is also very important to know where exactly to place and at what height to install sockets and switches. There is a lot of controversy on this issue, but there are still certain official rules and unofficial recommendations that need to be dealt with in more detail.
The main parameters for the correct installation of sockets and switches
It should be noted right away that it is quite difficult to find exact uniform standards for the installation height of switches and sockets, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Some references to the existing "European standards" are just a desire to copy the established fashion trend of "European-quality repair", the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.
By the way, the installation standards existed until some time - it was they that guided the builders in the construction of residential buildings of mass multi-storey buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (at level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (on level eye). In most apartments of the old building, such wiring can still be seen. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it convenient and are not going to redo it.
What explains such parameters is now difficult to say. Perhaps this was due to security considerations - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points remain accessible to children - sockets, and there are no special security considerations in this, but a child under 8 ÷ 10 years old cannot extinguish the light on their own. Another probable reason for such an installation is that it was always carried out indoors on top of the walls, and such an arrangement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cable (on the scale of mass construction ongoing in those years, the savings were serious).
Nevertheless, today the adopted European ones are more in use, rather than the standards, but the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?
Some building guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning during the construction phase of the house):
- Rosettes - 400 ÷ 450 mm from the level of the subfloor (slabs interfloor overlap). Thus, after pouring the screed and installation finish coat floor height will be about 300 mm.
- - 1000 ÷ 1050 mm from the rough surface, respectively, about 900 mm at the end of the finishing work.
Why is it convenient? Sockets and included power cables do not catch the eye and do not spoil the appearance of the room, and you can turn on or off the light with your hand freely lowered down. It is possible to teach children to be independent (of course, under adult supervision) - the switch is within reach for them .
It is worth mentioning right away that such “standards” exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.
There are special requirements for the installation of sockets and switches in institutions related to children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid uncontrolled actions of children with electricity by teachers or educators, these fittings are installed equally high - at a height of at least 1800 mm.
So, if we talk only about the height of the installation of sockets in residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three ways:
1 — When repairing, do not change the location of any sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual "Soviet standards" if it seems more convenient and safer.
2 — Alter the arrangement of reinforcement elements according to European traditions, which were mentioned above.
3 — To provide for your own location, based on personal preferences and amenities - this does not contradict the existing rules.
There are much more restrictions and recommendations for other installation parameters - they are set out in the current rules for the operation of electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:
- The minimum installation height of sockets in residential premises is not regulated, the maximum height is not higher than 1000 mm. Even their location at floor level is allowed - subject to the use of special skirting boards with cable channels from fireproof materials and special types of sockets.
Special socket with placement on the plinth - right at the floor level - In industrial premises, however, it is recommended to install sockets at a height of 800 to 1000 mm, and with the upper network wiring, you can raise them up to 1500 mm. It has already been said about children's and school institutions - at least 1800 mm from the floor level.
- In an apartment, especially when children live in it, it is strongly recommended (although not a mandatory rule) to use sockets with protective rods that automatically close the holes when the plug is pulled out.
The optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective shutters - Electrical wiring and electrical appliances should not be located closer than 500 mm from gas supply risers, closer than 100 mm from window or doorways, less than 150 mm from the level of the main ceiling. If installation is planned false ceiling(suspended or tension), then both the wiring and the junction box should be below its level.
- Installing sockets in bathrooms is not recommended. If, nevertheless, it is impossible to do without it, then it should be mounted at least 600 mm from the shower or bath door. In this case, a prerequisite is the use of special sockets for wet rooms (with increased housing tightness and with spring-loaded protective covers), and with its obligatory power supply through a leakage current (differential current) of not more than 30 mA.
To complete the issue with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install sockets close to the floor surface. "Design" in such conditions does not play a special role, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling irons or an electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one, or even one and a half meters. This absolutely eliminates the placement of the outlet above the washbasin.
- Switches are mounted, as a rule, on the wall at the entrance, from the side of the door handles. Installation height - from 800 to 1700 mm. If necessary, you can install them even higher, providing, for example, the possibility of switching on with a cord. Very often in small rooms (in hallways, in kitchens, in rooms with a small area) it is necessary to combine sockets and switches in blocks - then the optimal height for such a block is about 900 mm from the floor - the "golden mean".
In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to change the old sockets to new ones, the so-called "European format". They have a hole diameter - 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, several and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug. Such sockets withstand much larger loads - they are usually rated currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).
In addition, if the old outlet location is not connected ground loop– you will have to deal with this closely – most modern electrical appliances have three-prong grounded plugs to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances, connection to ground loop is simply a prerequisite). A few - in a special publication of our portal.
Video: where to place sockets and switches on the wall
Prices for sockets, switches and frames
Sockets, switches and frames
Some nuances of cable installation
Once a general repair is being done, it is worth revising the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of at least 1.5 mm². This section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if it is planned to install household appliances with increased power, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.
| Core cross section copper wire, mm² | maximum current under continuous load, A | maximum power load, kW | rated current triggering automatic protection, A | current limit triggering automatic protection, A | scope at home (apartments) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5 | 19 | 4.1 | 10 | 16 | lighting, signaling devices |
| 2.7 | 27 | 5.9 | 16 | 25 | socket blocks, floor heating systems |
| 4 | 38 | 8.3 | 25 | 32 | air conditioning equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers |
| 6 | 46 | 10.1 | 32 | 40 | electric stoves and electric ovens |
| 10 | 70 | 15.4 | 50 | 63 | input power lines |
Probably, it makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.
Each socket (or socket block) must be powered from its own junction box - Each outlet (socket group) or switch must be connected to an individual junction box. Make long hidden parallel connections from one to socket to the other is unwise, and in some cases can even be dangerous - this can easily lead to a reboot of this line with all the ensuing consequences.
- From mounting boxes with sockets or switches, strictly vertical wiring should go. This is explained simply - you can always visually determine the location of the passage of power cables in the thickness of the wall. If the line is laid in random order - at an angle (as in the figure, pos. No. 3) or even vertically, but with an offset (pos. No. 2) from the location of the socket (switch), then it can become an object of hidden danger.
After some time, and this happens quite quickly, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, it will be a “surprise” for the new owners of the apartment. When trying, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or a shelf, there is a high probability that the drill will hit a live power line with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for a large-scale wiring repair.
- But on the ceiling surface of the floor slab, if it is planned to install a hinged or stretch ceiling, wiring can be placed arbitrarily, as a rule - along the shortest distance. If a NYM type cable is used, then it does not even require additional protective insulation - it can be mounted directly on plastic dowel clamps. Cables of another type ( VVGng or VVG) are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe required diameter.
- On the floor, under its decorative covering, power cables can also be arranged arbitrarily, along the shortest distance. However, there are also special caveats. So, if the floor is laid on wooden logs, then wiring, regardless of the type of cable, is allowed only in metal pipes, regular or corrugated.
If a screed is planned, then corrugated plastic pipes are enough If the wiring is flooded concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.
- The next question is how often should sockets be installed, are there any rules on this?
There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - install them 1 piece at 6 ÷ 10 square meters area. However, apparently, these "standards" are somewhat outdated, as the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think over in advance the placement of the main instruments and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords in the future. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.
A well-designed scheme will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work. - And one more very important remark, or rather, good advice. When carrying out repair and electrical work, it is necessary not to be too lazy to photograph all the cable laying lines, the placement of junction boxes and other elements of the home electrical network, until they are hidden by plaster or finishing materials. It is desirable to take pictures in such a way that it is possible to bind hidden objects to stationary elements. For example, with sizing from a window or doorway, the corner of a room, a heating riser, etc. - so that you can quickly and accurately find the right node if you need any emergency, repair or maintenance work.
If planned, it is better to refer to a special publication of our portal, in which this issue is set out in more detail.
Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair
Cables and wires for construction and repair
Features of installing sockets and switches on kitchen
The kitchen is a special place for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with fumes, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, modern kitchen- this is the focus of the maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used simultaneously during cooking or other household operations, so the level of total load is usually the highest here.
The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when performing certain household tasks. Considering that many of them require separate power lines, one can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard.
| Type of household appliance | Average power consumption | Features of connecting to the power supply |
|---|---|---|
| Stove or hob electric | from 3500 to 12000 W | Individually routed power line |
| Electric oven | from 2500 to 10000 W | likewise |
| Washing machine | from 1500 to 3000 W | likewise |
| water heater | from 2500 to 7000 W | likewise |
| Dishwasher | from 1500 to 3500 W | likewise |
| Microwave | from 700 to 2500 W | Allowed to connect to a regular 16 A socket |
| Refrigerator (peak value - only at the time of start-up) | from 500 to 2000 W | likewise |
| Electric kettle | from 700 to 1500 W | likewise |
| Food processor (combine) | from 500 to 1500 W | likewise |
| Bread maker, steamer, etc. | from 700 to 2000 W | likewise |
| Toaster | up to 1000 W | likewise |
| Kitchen hood | from 500 to 1500 W | likewise |
| waste shredder | from 400 to 1000 watts | likewise |
Obviously, a lot of outlets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for the one installed in kitchen sink waste chopper and for additional lighting of the working space in the area of the cutting table, stove, sink.
Here, there can be no talk of any standards for the height of the installation of sockets - their location should, Firstly, provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection against moisture ingress, for stationary equipment - the secrecy of the wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:
It is clear that there are many options for placing built-in appliances, and if we add to this a variety of desktop electrical appliances and the features of their use (for example, there are housewives, whose favorite kitchen accessories are constantly “registered” on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing equipment and laying wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.
- The power of the supplied power lines (cross-section of copper wires) has already been mentioned - it is enough to compare the data from the first and second tables above. Nevertheless, one more figure is given, according to which one can decide on this issue.
An important condition is that the total capacity of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, ensure the possibility of simultaneously switching on all points of consumption. In practice, of course, this should not be allowed in any case, but insurance is still necessary.
- For the hob (electric stove) and for oven (Ifthey are independent of each other) special power sockets are installed, designed for a maximum current of 32 - 40 A. The same is true if the stove and oven are dependent on each other.
Various models of power outlets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for high-power household appliances - If a storage water heater (boiler) with a capacity of more than 3.5 kW is installed in the kitchen, then I also remember to connect it to a power outlet, or to an automatic machine installed on the wall in a protective box. This unit works in automatic mode almost constantly, and it doesn’t really need an outlet.
- Installation of sockets for other built-in household appliances can be provided at several levels:
— On the wall, on top no higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these reinforcement elements behind a standard removable furniture plinth.
- In lockers kitchen set- provided that this piece of furniture does not contain retractable or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which can catch the electric cable.
- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from the plumbing and sewer pipes. The socket in this case must be sealed with a waterproof cover.
- On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for extractor hoods, additional lighting devices, sometimes for built-in microwaves or refrigerators. The height of the sockets in this case is not less than 50 mm above the level upper surface closet.
- To connect desktop kitchen appliances, sockets are located on the wall, about 100 mm from the level (this, as a rule, falls at a height of 1150 mm from the floor level (if desired, it can be higher, up to 1400 mm). At the same time, socket blocks never must be located above the sink or hob - they must be removed at least 250 ÷ 300 mm to the side.
Instead of such a wall placement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules have now been actively used - in the form of opening "books" or retractable upwards for connecting "columns" with sockets.
Hidden socket block in the form of an opening "book" It is very convenient - and the wall surface is “clean”, and appears only as needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.
Another option for hidden placement of sockets is a rising "column" What other principles should be taken into account when placing outlets:
- The socket for built-in equipment can never be placed directly behind the installed appliance - it must be moved to the side, up or down.
- The distance from the device to the power outlet must not exceed 1000 mm.
- All, without exception, lines going to the kitchen must have their own circuit breakers and RCD devices.
When planning the laying of power lines in the kitchen, of course, it is worth proceeding from the real characteristics of household appliances. Probably, it would be better to contact an electrical organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this scheme, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of sockets "on the ground" - to determine the places for making rosettes zd in the wall and cutting strobes to them.
It is possible that it will be possible to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of washing and dishwashers does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be "planted" on the same power line with a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is enough for a refrigerator and a certain outlet group. However, conclusions should still be drawn by a professional in this matter.
Video: a difficult task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen
Before proceeding with the direct installation of sockets and switches, it is necessary to plan their location in advance. Draw up a plan for the placement of electrical appliances in the room, draw up a diagram location of sockets and switches, calculate the required number for each room.
For example, if this living room then it, as a rule, will contain a TV, a computer, table lamps and bra.
All these points must be taken into account at the very stage of preparation for electrical installation.
Surely, before installing sockets or switches, you wondered about choosing the height of their location.
If you need to install these elements in accordance with all the rules and regulations, then I suggest that you look into the "Bible of an Electrician" - Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations (PUE) in the section regarding the installation of electrical wiring in residential buildings.
Location of outlets
- in residential premises they are installed at a height of 0.2-0.3 m from the floor surface. For a family with small children, it is advisable to install sockets with protective shutters, since at such a height they are easily accessible to the child.
- in kitchens, as a rule, at a height of 1.3 m from the floor. This value may vary depending on the height and arrangement of your furniture. Also, do not forget the requirements of paragraph 7.1.50 of the PUE: the minimum distance from sockets to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 m;
- in rooms with high humidity(baths, showers, saunas) sockets are installed at a height of 1 m. It is forbidden to install sockets directly in shower cabins.
Switch location
There is a lot of discussion about how high to install switches - on the shoulder or under the arm?
In Soviet times, switches were located at the height of an adult's shoulder, which is about 170-180 cm.
At the present time, switches are installed according to the so-called European standard: located on the side of the door handle at a distance of at least 10 cm from the doorway, the installation height is at the level of the hand lowered down about 0.8-0.9 m. For many, this seems more convenient than the Soviet standard.
As for the rules, the PUE does not give specific values \u200b\u200bfor the location of the switches. The only thing to remember:
Of the above rules and regulations, location of outlets and switches in houses and apartments, one should not forget about such important principles as practicality and convenience.
After all, if you live in a private house or apartment and for technical reasons or need you need to change the indicated distances, then I think that there will be nothing wrong with that, as they say, each owner does it for himself. But do not forget about safety, your own and your loved ones (PUE 7.1.50).
And if you place electrical appliances somewhere, in a store or whatever public place, then, of course, it is better to listen to these rules of the PUE and do everything as it should, so that no inspector comes later and fines the owners for non-compliance with generally accepted norms and rules.
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Electrician in the house
20/07/2011 11:22:17
Installation height of sockets and switches
In the process of building a house or renovating an apartment, the question very often arises - on what height from the floor should switches and sockets be installed?
There is also no notorious European standard. It's done the way comfortable people. And how convenient? In different sources you can find completely different data. Basically, these sources state the following: the installation height of the switches from the level pure the floor is 85-90 cm, and the sockets are 30 cm.
dictated it the following reasons. It is more convenient for a person to turn on the light in the direction of travel without raising their hands. If done lower, the person will stretch, higher - raise his hand.
What should be the height of the installation of sockets according to the rules?
Following these recommendations, I made switches at a level of 85 to 90 cm and realized that for my height 178 cm is low! To turn on the light, I had to straighten my arm completely, but this turned out to be uncomfortable. Then I conducted a series of experiments with myself and other household members, including children, and determined that the optimal height for installing switches from the level of the finished floor is 97-98 cm (that is, from 95 to 100 cm).
Only in this case, you do not have to stretch and tilt the body. This height is comfortable for both relatively tall people and people of average height. It is curious that the standard height for door handles is just 95-100 cm. And in this sense, it is not entirely clear to me where 90 cm for switches came from.
After all, 1 meter is what is optimal for a person.
Important! That the height is considered from the clean floor, that is, with all finishing coatings(screed, laminate, tile, parquet). Sometimes switches are marked from the level of the floor slab, and when a screed is made, it can get thicker and the switch will end up lower as a result. In this case, I recommend laying the wires with a margin in height, and after the rough Finishing work(screed) just walk around the premises and, imitating the inclusion, lean with your hand in the place against the wall where the future switch will be.
Only then will you understand at what height it is more convenient for you to make a switch.
The distance of the switch to the door opening.
Here I also made a small mistake by installing several switches at a distance of 20-25 cm from the opening. This turned out to be inconvenient. When I enter a room at night, I usually find the switch far from the first time.
In other rooms, I installed switches at a distance of 15 cm (from the edge of the opening to the edge of the switch) and this turned out to be much more convenient. The distance to the switch from the doorway, from my point of view, should be 10-15 cm, no more!
Height of outlets
Now sockets are made lower than 50 years ago, at a height of about 20-35 cm from the floor, so that they themselves and hanging wires do not violate the aesthetic appearance of the room.
There are no such requirements for ergonomics as with switches, but there are nuances. It is better to make general-purpose sockets really lower - 20-35 cm. However, near work and desks, in kitchens and other places where you obviously know how and what you will plug into sockets, it is better to determine the height in place, again based on convenience use. If you have a desk planned, then to connect a computer, a phone charger and other equipment, it may be more convenient for you to place the outlet above the table plane at a height of 80-90 cm than to climb under the table later.
The same applies to the distance to the corners. It is necessary to have at least an indicative plan for arranging furniture, otherwise it may turn out that all the sockets will be behind cabinets and beds.
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2018-02-12 23:19:53 | Vladimir
I measured it, with my height 176, switches are convenient for 85.
As for the proximity to the doorway - for sure, you need to leave the minimum distance between the switch and the lining - five centimeters, and then you don’t need to.
As for the door handle, there is a different movement of the hand: the hand is bent and placed on top of the handle, so it should be higher. You don't have to bend your arm to turn the switch.
2013-05-21 12:42:14 | Victor
Thank you so much for the practical advice!
2012-11-20 16:49:20 | Alex
Fully agree with the article.
I’ll add from experience: I made some of the sockets above the desk behind the monitor (it’s not visible, but they are there 🙂 - you can stick all sorts of adapters and power supplies for long-term use), two sockets in plain sight - it’s convenient to plug in chargers for cell phones, electric shavers, etc. To connect computer equipment, I screw pilot extensions to the inner sidewall of the table, but I plug the pilot into a separate outlet installed just under the table.
Electrical and lighting planning. Lighting switches, lighting devices, location of sockets in a private house.
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● Be sure to make a plan for laying external / internal engineering networks and strictly follow this plan.
At installation work would be nice to do photographic fixation of the places of laying electrical wiring(and not just electricians). Such photographic documents in later life will more than once help to get rid of various problems during repairs, redevelopment and other actions.
● You should not do electrical wiring without first making a layout interior decoration and furniture placement.
● It is better to make wires in the wiring to use copper and with a margin in cross section.
● Electrical networks in a private house include: local network, toilet, TV, computer, alarm system, intercom, boiler temperature sensor, fire alarm, kitchen hood, hoods in the toilet and bathroom.
● When installing electrical networks in a house, it would be good to provide for the output of power and video cable to entrance group.
● If the ceiling is high enough, then to facilitate washing the chandelier, you can supply it with a cable - in this case, the chandelier can be lowered.
● When planning and installing electrical wiring, it is better to immediately implement a lighting system in the local area.
● It is better to install an automatic machine for each device that consumes electricity, so as not to experience inconvenience later.
● An electrical appliance such as a washing machine should be put on a personal machine.
● It is better to install counters and machines outside buildings.
Installation height of switches and sockets from the floor
Thus, when the switch is turned off, the voltage in the whole house disappears.
● In a private house, for security purposes, you can install individual smoke alarms - they are inexpensive.
Light switches.
● A central switch must be made at the entrance door - this will allow you to turn on / off lighting and electrical appliances right from the threshold.
● Install switches only "Euro".
● It is better to make more so-called "walk-through" switches in order to turn off the lighting without returning from room to room.
● The height at which the switches should be installed should be 80-90 cm so that the child can easily reach them.
● It will be convenient if install light switches.
● In the bedroom, you can install two switches - at the entrance and next to the bed.
● On personal plot you can set the remote on / off lighting, lighting paths, pools and other buildings.
● In the child's bedroom, you can use dimmers - rheostats so that the light fades slowly, and not abruptly.
Location of sockets in a private house.
● It is better to install sockets not single, but double.
In terms of costs, this is almost the same, and in the future, double sockets will help out more than once and it will not be necessary to adapt various tees.
● Places for the installation of sockets must be planned based on the future arrangement of furniture.
● Do not install floor sockets.
In this case, they will be constantly open and dust will certainly accumulate in them, but the floor will already be somewhat problematic to wash.
● The height of the outlets is determined based on their purpose. It makes no sense to install sockets in plain sight in cases where it is in these places that electrical appliances will not be switched on / off frequently.
● In the room where the computer will be used, it is better to place sockets above the system unit.
● Do not install too many outlets.
If you install five nests in the frame, then it is not a fact that they will all be used.
● In the kitchen, sockets should be installed higher than the electrical appliances used: coffee maker, microwave oven, electric kettle, toaster, etc.
p. Thus, turning on and off is done without unnecessary movements of electrical appliances.
● In the bathroom, it is also better to install sockets at a certain height so that there is no need to move household appliances away.
● Do not forget to install a socket in the hallway and corridor.
● It would be useful to install external moisture-proof sockets in the yard and along the facade - this can be done as a separate group on the main shield. When using various power tools (sink, lawn mower, etc.)
e.) using the carrier is not always convenient.
Lighting devices.
● It is better to use LED bulbs in lighting devices - with constantly on lighting in several rooms, the savings will be significant.
● It is better not to install spotlights in the style of "starry sky".
All this "creativity" will quickly get bored, and besides, the bulbs in this system tend to burn out.
● Lamps are best used with conventional sockets E 27, E 14. This is more reliable and, if desired, you can easily change the light bulbs to energy-saving ones.
● Installation of ceiling recessed luminaires with incandescent lamps with a thin base upwards is fraught with the fact that in the future it will be quite difficult to change the light bulb, which will definitely "bite" in the cartridge.
● In the kitchen, it is mandatory to install lighting above the work surface.
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Installation height of switches and sockets: rules and standards
1. Framework system.
For many years, it has been possible to group sockets into frames from 1 to 5. And not only power, but also computer and television, and even switches.
The center-to-center distance between the socket boxes to be joined should be exactly 71 mm. Drill in concrete wall under the socket boxes you need a crown of at least 68 mm (this is the diameter of a normal socket box), but more is possible - 70, 73. Even by 80, then the risk of inconsistency of the socket boxes is reduced to zero.
The socket boxes are fixed in concrete with the help of a plaster mixture. The easiest way is to use a gypsum mixture such as Knauf Rotband, as it is viscous enough to comfortably glue the sockets.
For installation of socket boxes in drywall, the center-to-center distance is 71, but the hole is strictly 68mm, since it is attached to drywall (and other sheet material) due to the "legs" attracting the base to the sheet.
If you make the hole larger, the socket will simply fall into the cavity behind the sheet.
Is it worth saying that the socket boxes are mounted when the cable is already connected to the installation site? Said.
2. Distance from the floor.
For standard sockets distance from the center of the outlet to the floor 300mm.
For standard switches distance from the center of the switch to the floor 900mm.
For thermostats distance from the center of the thermostat to the floor 1500mm.
With television outlets, things are trickier.
Here it is already necessary to try on, and it is best to draw the future TV on the wall, provide for where the mounting frame will be located, and at the bottom of the TV (so that it overlaps the sockets), provide for the placement of sockets.
For a 30-40 inch TV located opposite the bed, for example, the normal height of the outlets is 1100mm from the floor to their center.
In bathrooms and toilets, it is safe to place sockets and switches at least half a meter above the sink.
3.
Distance from slope.
The distance from the slope to the first outlet from the group should be 150-200mm, and be the same in all rooms. It is almost impossible to accurately measure these distances before leveling the walls with plaster, therefore perfect option transfer the layout and installation of socket boxes to the moment when all the walls are already formed.
4.
Grouping outlets.
It is customary to separate power and low-voltage sockets from each other at a distance of at least one more socket in order to minimize interference generated by the field from power cables. That is, to form a socket block for a TV, you need to make two sockets for power sockets, skip one socket, and then two sockets for low-current sockets.
Low-current sockets include computer, television, satellite, FM sockets, and sockets with a cable channel.
The issue of placing sockets and switches is a matter of ease of use of the entire power supply system at home. When doing repairs, you should immediately consider at what height and where all the switches and sockets will be located in order to use them as conveniently as possible.
Choosing a variety of switches and sockets is not a problem today. The choice is great - for any wallet, from the most simple devices to "smart" additional features. It remains to determine the optimal height of the electrical fittings, so that it meets the principles of ergonomics and convenience for all the inhabitants of the house without exception.
We note right away that there are no strict rules regarding the height of sockets and switches. There is SP 31-110-2003 "Design and installation of electrical installations of residential and public buildings", however, it focuses more on the basic standards of artificial lighting of certain premises. In particular, the document states that if the corridor is longer than 10 meters, it should have two light control sources. Regarding the height of the location, it is indicated that it is desirable to place sockets and switches at a height of up to 1 meter.
Important! If sockets can and should be placed in each room at different heights, then one should be chosen for all switches. In this case, the devices must have a single switching position. This is explained simply - a person gets used to turning on the light in each room with the same hand movement and does it in the future without hesitation. Therefore, the same arrangement of switches is as convenient as possible - even in an unfamiliar room you find the light control instinctively.
So, to summarize - all switches should be located at the same height in each room. The optimal height from the floor is 90 centimeters. It is at this height that door handles are traditionally located. Ideally, if the switches are located exactly on the side of the interior door handle. In this case, opening the door to the room with your right hand, you can simultaneously turn on the light with your left. And vice versa. No unnecessary movements and inconvenience.
The exception is bedside lamp switches - in this case, it is important that they can be reached by hand without getting out of bed. The location of the chain switches for sconces and floor lamps is regulated by the placement of the light sources themselves.
Important! Children's question. If the switch is low, 90 centimeters from the floor, some fear that the child will play with it, just “click”, admiring the blinking lights. Remember that at 5-6 years old, even earlier, children already perfectly understand why switches are needed and they won’t touch them just like that. And the electrical fittings themselves are designed for a service life of up to 50 years. You don't want to change the location of the switches after 5 years, do you? Or the first years of walking after the baby, turning on the light for him, because he simply does not reach the control device? Do everything at once for adult needs, including with sockets. It is better to buy protection for a child for the first time, the simplest plugs, for example, than to change the location of devices later and make new repairs.
If we have decided on the height of the switches, then it is more difficult with sockets. This question depends on what exactly, where exactly, you will include. Therefore, it is so important to understand at the beginning of the repair how the furniture will stand, where computer desk, TV, ironing board, a place to charge gadgets. Only in this case it will be possible to place all sockets at the optimal height.
For example, on kitchen apron According to experts, there should be at least three outlets. In one place or in different places - you decide. Standard outlet height kitchen worktop- 8-10 centimeters.
As you can see, place the sockets in working area kitchens can be at the top, under the cabinets. But dangling wires can be annoying and not very pretty. It is advisable to hide sockets for the refrigerator and oven behind the household appliances themselves. Usually these devices are connected all the time, you rarely have to use the outlet, so it is better if it is not conspicuous.
Important! According to safety requirements, it is not recommended to place sockets in the bathroom and toilet below 1 meter from the floor. They should be separated from the washbasin by 20-30 centimeters. However, many hide the outlet for washing machine co standard height 85 centimeters behind her. Or place sockets under the sink, behind the cabinet doors. In any case, it is advisable to choose sockets with a screen to protect against moisture.
The standard height of sockets for extension cords, iron, vacuum cleaner is 25-30 centimeters from the floor. At the same height, it is advisable to place sockets under the desk to connect the computer system unit. If sockets are needed above a chest of drawers, a cabinet, a desk, they should be separated from the countertop by 10-15 centimeters.
We state: unlike the location of the switches, we cannot give you clear, unambiguous recommendations at what height you need to install sockets in each room. It all depends on the number of household appliances, their location, the needs of the family. Use our recommendations, think over the location of furniture, appliances, and only then will you find the answer to the question of the optimal height of the sockets.
