Making glue for plastic crafts. How to choose glue for plastic models Buy glue for plastic models

When new people find out about my hobby of assembling scale models and it really gets them interested, the next question is almost certainly: What do you glue them with?

When assembling a plastic model, Collect model from the parts in the correct order according to the instructions, with the exception of models assembled without glue. This article will be useful for both interested people and beginner modellers.

What glue is used to glue plastic models?

Glue for prefabricated models is used different: Ordinary model glue, Superfluid, Transparent, Cyanoacrylate, Epoxy and others. And now more about each:

regular model glue

Glue of this category is called polystyrene or universal. Glue of this type is familiar to many modellers since the times of the USSR. But even today it is the most popular adhesive for plastic models. It is used by both novice modellers, who collect models from time to time, and professionals.

The main elements of universal glue: polystyrene And butyl acetate. The adhesive effect comes from the "welding effect" in two steps. First, the plastic on the parts to be glued dissolves a little and after the parts are joined, it is "welded" into one part. The joint between the parts is strong and can be processed. Second stage: Polysterol additionally holds the parts together, strengthening molecular bonds.

Mode of application: You must first apply glue to both parts, wait a couple of minutes to dissolve a thin layer of plastic and then connect the parts by firmly pressing them together. If the parts are not pressed against each other, then a groove may form at the seam. And when pressed, the molten plastic will squeeze out and, after solidification, it is easy to remove it with a knife.

Main Representatives conventional model adhesive:

Almost all manufacturers of prefabricated scale models produce such glue:

most famous "Glue for models" Zvezda " and "Modeler", ICM, Tamiya and Revell,

as well as good and inexpensive domestic-made glue from Plastmaster

and glue from KAV-models

I used "Plastmaster" glue and "KAV-Models" glue in my work - wonderful chemistry, they stick together well.

Glue "Plastmaster" does not smell and more like superfluid glue. "KAV-Models" has a light and pleasant smell like from childhood. (before there was no model glue and you had to make it yourself from acetone). The glue slightly dissolves the plastic and the parts are welded together. I use it for gluing large parts.

Superfluid Model Adhesive

Adhesive effect superfluid, highly fluid or liquid glue also works due to the "welding effect", but the main advantage of this glue is the increased capillary effect. In simple words - increased penetrating power.

Super-fluid adhesive leaves virtually no marks on the surface of the model

Tamiya glue comes in a glass jar and comes with a built-in brush. You can also choose the smell: Lemon or Orange.

I use Tamiya Lemon Superfluid Glue. More like an orange scent. The smell is not strong and doesn't bother me at all. Glues well. I use it as the main washing glue.

Mode of application: Attach the parts to be glued to each other and run along the seam with a brush with glue. The glue will penetrate into the joint and "weld" the parts.

Main Representatives: Tamiya and Akan

Transparent Model Adhesive

Many prefabricated models come with a sprue with transparent details. To carefully glue the transparent parts together or glue them to the body of the model, a special "Transparent" glue is used.

This glue has no welding effect. The parts are glued together due to the basis of the glue itself, which becomes transparent after drying.

Mode of application: It is necessary to apply glue on both surfaces to be glued, let it dry for several minutes and while the glue remains sticky, press the parts together.

Key Representative: Revell Contacta Clear

Cyanoacrylate Model Adhesive

Cyanoacrylate glue - known to everyone as "SuperGlue".

The common name "superglue" in everyday life - translation into Russian trademark Super Glue. This name in the former USSR became a household name.
Super Glue was first obtained in 1942 (during World War II) by the American chemist Harry Coover, who worked for Eastman Kodak, in the course of experiments to find transparent plastics for optical sights, however, the substance due to excessive stickiness was rejected. In 1951, American researchers, while searching for a heat-resistant coating for fighter cockpits, accidentally discovered the property of cyanoacrylate to firmly glue various surfaces. This time, Coover appreciated the possibilities of the substance, and in 1958 superglue went on sale for the first time, blowing up the market.
In the USSR, the glue was produced under the name "cyacrine".
Adhesives based on cyanoacrylates easily withstand loads of 150 kg / cm², and more advanced ones - 250 kg / cm². The heat resistance of the compound is low and comparable to the heat resistance acrylic plexiglass: from 70-80 °C for conventional adhesives, up to 125 °C for modified ones.
Cyanoacrylate is a strong, fast setting, instant adhesive. Easily bonds non-porous and water-containing materials. Sets in less than a minute and reaches maximum strength in two hours. However, its shear strength is low.

Cyanoacrylate is a very popular glue among modellers due to its properties to quickly and firmly glue different materials. For example for bonding metal parts or resin parts to plastic.

The quality of the adhesive depends on its purity, the more cyanoacrylate and less impurities, the higher the strength of the bonded product. Some modellers use cyacrine as an adhesive for plastic models. Cyacrine adhesives still differ in density, the thinner the adhesive, the faster it hardens.

If you want to move the part during installation, then it is better to use a gel. There are also activators and retarders that speed up or slow down the gluing process. Some danger is caused by the contact of cyacrine with cotton fabric. When they interact, heat is generated, which can lead to burns or even ignition.

For long-term storage conditions with low humidity and low temperature from +5 to +10 ° C are needed.

There is Tamiya branded glue - Tamiya 87062 Tamiya CA Cement. The glue is certainly good in a convenient package with buttons on the edges that help in the exact dosage of the applied glue. Glue sets quickly and very firmly. I use it when working with photoetching. The main drawback is that when not in use, the tip of the tube freezes and is very difficult to pierce. Yes, and this glue is not enough.

Cyanoacrylate glue can be bought at any store. Household tubes are much cheaper, and the quality should be no worse.

I bought several tubes of various "Super Glue" on occasion.

Applied to the right "Lefan", it seizes a little longer than the glue from Tamiya. But in the end it turns out very strong. And even if the glue in the tube dries up during storage, you don’t feel sorry for it, because. is not expensive at all.

Lately I've been using "Universal Glue", which is in the center of the picture. I bought it in a magnet. I bought 5 pieces at once. Always useful in everyday life.

But I also tried it for gluing plastic and photo-etching. So - cool glue! Fluid, conveniently dosed from a tube, tightly glues parts and does not dry out. After application, there is time to remove the excess with a cotton swab and there will be no traces left on the surface. And this glue costs - 16 rubles.

I won’t buy Tamiya cyanoacrylate glue anymore, because it’s expensive, it dries up, no matter how you close it, the dosage is not particularly convenient, it’s more pontoon and it’s very expensive. Better to buy 20 tubes in a magnet

Mode of application: Before gluing, I would recommend trying the parts together and perhaps a little practice in quickly and accurately connecting them. And then applying glue quickly, but gently press the parts together. Be careful not to get glue on your fingers. Otherwise, the details will stick to you. You can damage both the skin on the fingers and the model itself. Be careful.

This article, like the entire column, was inspired to write by my friend, who, together with his son, decided to assemble a model, though he has not yet decided what.

And to his question: “What kind of glue to buy?”. I began to explain for a long time what glues for models are and how to use them. And so, I decided to lay out all my fabrications here. So, there are several types of adhesives for models. Conventionally, they can be divided into several groups.

Polystyrene adhesives

This group includes, for example,glue for models firms "Zvezda" or firms "Akan", model firms with a worldwide reputation, for example, Revell and Tamiya, also produce their adhesives.

This category of adhesives is most widely used among modellers involved in prefabricated plastic models. These compounds are based on butyl acetate. Over time, polystyrene glue can thicken, you can return it to its previous consistency by diluting it with butyl acetate.

The principle of operation of this category of adhesive is based on the melting of a polystyrene surface, which will then be glued to another polystyrene surface. Later, when two parts are joined, mutual melting of both surfaces and penetration of substance particles from one half of the product into the other takes place. Then, after the glue has evaporated, the molten surfaces solidify. The glued product can be used after a few hours, but for complete readiness it is better to wait a day. The preparation time of the product also depends on the thickness of the applied adhesive layer. After complete drying, the product has very good strength adhesive bond. These adhesives have a significant drawback - they only glue polystyrene. For example, they are no longer able to glue plexiglass with plastic or with themselves. Dichloroethane can be used for these purposes. You can buy it in shops for radio amateurs. Here is a bottle of 30 ml costs 30 rubles.

The substance is very toxic and harmful, but if you work with it carefully, then this glue is quite suitable for use. It is necessary when, for example, it is necessary to glue a canopy drawn from plexiglass to a polystyrene fuselage, or it is well suited for manufacturing by dissolving pieces of polystyrene in a liquid.For novice modellers, glues of this particular group can be recommended for assembling their first plastic models. Specifically, perfectglue for models firm "Zvezda", as it is the cheapest and very affordable.

superfluid adhesives.

This category of adhesives is characterized by increased fluidity and penetrating power. The principle of operation is the same as the above formulations. This glue is good to use for work in hard-to-reach places, you can glue the cracks, etc. It practically does not leave marks on the surface of the model. This type of model adhesive dries quickly, so it must be handled quickly. For ease of application, it is best to use a brush. The composition is based on the same butyl acetate, respectively, this substance can be used for work in the absence of branded superfluid glue. And on sale you can find an inexpensive composition of the company "Akan" - superfluid model glue "Akan-profi".

Adhesive for transparent parts.

It is designed for gluing transparent parts. It often happens that during the installation of the lantern, as luck would have it, the glue flows onto the transparent part and the idea has to be removed and the part polished. To avoid such troubles, there is a special adhesive composition. Its principle is based not on the melting of parts, but on the use of a base, in a liquid state it is cloudy white color which becomes transparent when dry. This composition is applied to the surface of the parts and after 10-15 minutes they are connected. Representatives of this category are the Aqua adhesive for transparent parts from Akan or the Micro Kristal Klear compound from Microscale.

Cyanoacrylate Model Adhesive (CA)

This group includes a large number of all kinds of superglues, which are sold even in stalls.

It is based onCyanoacrylate, a substance obtained back in 1942. It glues very quickly and quite firmly, but does not hold the joint well in shear. The catalyst for CA glue is water, therefore, at high humidity, it quickly hardens and does not store well. Long-term storage requires conditions with low humidity and low temperature from +5 to +10°C. IN living conditions This is what a refrigerator is for. The quality of the adhesive depends on its purity, the more cyanoacrylate and less impurities, the higher the strength of the bonded product. This type of adhesive is used for gluing Resin Kits (additions to resin models), assembling full resin models, assembling photo-etched parts and gluing it to the polystyrene parts of the model. It is also widely used in construction or repair. radio controlled models. It is very convenient in the field when repairing the model due to the speed of drying and strong connection. Some modellers use cyacrine as an adhesive for plastic models. Cyacrine adhesives still differ in density, the thinner the adhesive, the faster it hardens.

Therefore, if you want to correct a part or move it during installation, it is better to use a gel. There are also activators and retarders that allow you to speed up or slow down the process of gluing the product.When working with cyanoacrylate, you should try not to inhale its vapors, as they can cause irritation of the mucous membrane. Skin contact may result in an allergic reaction. Also dangerous is the contact of cyacrine with cotton fabric. When they interact, heat is generated, which can lead to burns or even ignition. For the convenience of working with a large-capacity tube, you can put a needle from a syringe on the spout. With each subsequent use of cyanoacrylate glue, the needle warms up well, for example with a match or a lighter, and the substance is ready for use again.

Epoxy adhesives

The principle of their operation is that the epoxy resin hardens under the action of the hardener, forming a strong connection of the parts. This type of adhesive is well suited for the construction of radio-controlled models, their home repairs, the manufacture of individual units and parts of the model, by molding them from fiberglass. Some epoxy resins allow you to make whole models from them and clone parts. Use epoxy asglue for models plasticit will not work, because due to the chemical characteristics of polystyrene, the hardened resin will not adhere to the plastic. Epoxy adhesives are well suited for models made of wood, resin and fiberglass, for mounting metal parts to the above materials. The curing time of epoxy glue depends on its type and brand, it can be from one hour to a day. Heat exposure reduces this time. Before use, you must read the instructions for use of a particular composition. So different epoxy adhesives are diluted in different proportions (resin/hardener). For example, EPD epoxy resin is diluted in a ratio of 1:10, that is, one part of the resin (the contents of a large bottle) accounts for one part of the hardener (the contents of a glass bottle).

But the epoxy glue "Moment" Super Epoxy is diluted in a ratio of 1: 1, that is, one part of the hardener accounts for one part of the glue. For ease of use, both tubes are made in the form of syringes, which are convenient to squeeze out the same amount of compositions.

Glue for paper models

A separate type of modeling is paper and cardboard models. It has its own characteristics in work, assembly and coloring. For example, PVA glue is best for assembling such models. Usually it is a thick white liquid, almost odorless. To achieve the required density, PVA can be diluted with water. But if it has completely hardened, then, unfortunately, it is no longer possible to dilute it. Also, PVA glue can be used to glue wood or veneer, for example, when building bench wooden ship models. Before using PVA, it is necessary to shake or mix thoroughly, as the composition separates over time.

All of the above adhesives, except for PVA, are quite toxic and should be worked with in well-ventilated areas, avoiding contact with the mouth and eyes. But if this happens, they must be washed immediately. running water and then it is advisable to consult a doctor. On the other hand, with strict observance of safety precautions, there will be no harm to health. Therefore, before using anyglue for models it is necessary to read the instructions for use and strictly observe the prescribed precautions.

This article, like the entire column, was inspired to write by my friend, who, together with his son, decided to assemble a model, though he has not yet decided what.

Polystyrene adhesives

This group includes, for example, glue for models firms "Zvezda" or firms "Akan", model firms with a worldwide reputation, for example, Revell and Tamiya, also produce their adhesives.

The principle of operation of this category of adhesive is based on the melting of a polystyrene surface, which will then be glued to another polystyrene surface. Later, when two parts are joined, mutual melting of both surfaces and penetration of substance particles from one half of the product into the other takes place. Then, after the glue has evaporated, the molten surfaces solidify. The glued product can be used after a few hours, but for complete readiness it is better to wait a day. The preparation time of the product also depends on the thickness of the applied adhesive layer. After complete drying, the product has a very good adhesive strength. These adhesives have a significant drawback - they only glue polystyrene. For example, they are no longer able to glue plexiglass with plastic or with themselves. Dichloroethane can be used for these purposes. You can buy it in shops for radio amateurs. Here is a bottle of 30 ml costs 30 rubles.

The substance is very toxic and harmful, but if you work with it carefully, then this glue is quite suitable for use. It is necessary when, for example, it is necessary to glue a canopy drawn from plexiglass to a polystyrene fuselage, or it is well suited for manufacturing by dissolving pieces of polystyrene in a liquid. For novice modellers, glues of this particular group can be recommended for assembling their first plastic models. Specifically, perfectglue for models firm "Zvezda", as it is the cheapest and very affordable.

superfluid adhesives.

This category of adhesives is characterized by increased fluidity and penetrating power. The principle of operation is the same as the above formulations. This glue is good for working in hard-to-reach places, you can glue gaps, etc. It practically does not leave marks on the surface of the model. This type of model adhesive dries quickly, so it must be handled quickly. For ease of application, it is best to use a brush. The composition is based on the same butyl acetate, respectively, this substance can be used for work in the absence of branded superfluid glue. And on sale you can find an inexpensive composition of the company "Akan" - superfluid model glue "Akan-profi".

Adhesive for transparent parts.

It is designed for gluing transparent parts. It often happens that during the installation of the lantern, as luck would have it, the glue flows onto the transparent part and the idea has to be removed and the part polished. To avoid such troubles, there is a special adhesive composition. Its principle is based not on the melting of parts, but on the use of a base, in a liquid state it is cloudy white, which becomes transparent when dried. This composition is applied to the surface of the parts and after 10-15 minutes they are connected. Representatives of this category are the Aqua adhesive for transparent parts from Akan or the Micro Kristal Klear compound from Microscale.

Cyanoacrylate Model Adhesive (CA)

This group includes a large number of various superglues, which are sold even in stalls.

It is based on Cyanoacrylate, a substance obtained back in 1942. It glues very quickly and quite firmly, but does not hold the joint well in shear. The catalyst for CA glue is water, therefore, at high humidity, it quickly hardens and does not store well. Long-term storage requires conditions with low humidity and low temperature from +5 to +10°C. In domestic conditions, a refrigerator is suitable for this. The quality of the adhesive depends on its purity, the more cyanoacrylate and less impurities, the higher the strength of the bonded product. This type of adhesive is used for gluing Resin Kits (additions to resin models), assembling full resin models, assembling photo-etched parts and gluing it to the polystyrene parts of the model. It is also widely used in the construction or repair of radio-controlled models. It is very convenient in the field when repairing the model due to the speed of drying and strong connection. Some modellers use cyacrine as an adhesive for plastic models. Cyacrine adhesives still differ in density, the thinner the adhesive, the faster it hardens.

Therefore, if you want to correct a part or move it during installation, it is better to use a gel. There are also activators and retarders that allow you to speed up or slow down the process of gluing the product. When working with cyanoacrylate, you should try not to inhale its vapors, as they can cause irritation of the mucous membrane. Skin contact may result in an allergic reaction. Also dangerous is the contact of cyacrine with cotton fabric. When they interact, heat is generated, which can lead to burns or even ignition. For the convenience of working with a large-capacity tube, you can put a needle from a syringe on the spout. With each subsequent use of cyanoacrylate glue, the needle warms up well, for example with a match or a lighter, and the substance is ready for use again.

Epoxy adhesives

The principle of their operation is that the epoxy resin hardens under the action of the hardener, forming a strong connection of the parts. This type of adhesive is well suited for the construction of radio-controlled models, their home repairs, the manufacture of individual units and parts of the model, by molding them from fiberglass. Some epoxy resins allow you to make whole models from them and clone parts. Use epoxy as glue for models plastic it will not work, because due to the chemical characteristics of polystyrene, the hardened resin will not adhere to the plastic. Epoxy adhesives are well suited for models made of wood, resin and fiberglass, for mounting metal parts to the above materials. The curing time of epoxy glue depends on its type and brand, it can be from one hour to a day. Heat exposure reduces this time. Before use, you must read the instructions for use of a particular composition. So different epoxy adhesives are diluted in different proportions (resin/hardener). For example, EPD epoxy resin is diluted in a ratio of 1:10, that is, one part of the resin (the contents of a large bottle) accounts for one part of the hardener (the contents of a glass bottle).

Glue for paper models

All of the above adhesives, except for PVA, are quite toxic and should be worked with in well-ventilated areas, avoiding contact with the mouth and eyes. But if this happens, they should be immediately rinsed with running water and then it is advisable to consult a doctor. On the other hand, with strict observance of safety precautions, there will be no harm to health. Therefore, before using any glue for models it is necessary to read the instructions for use and strictly observe the prescribed precautions.

When new people find out about my hobby of assembling scale models and it really gets them interested, the next question is almost certainly: What do you glue them with?

What glue is used to glue plastic models?

Glue for prefabricated models is used different: Ordinary model glue, Superfluid, Transparent, Cyanoacrylate, Epoxy and others. And now more about each:

regular model glue

Glue of this category is called polystyrene or universal. Glue of this type is familiar to many modellers since the times of the USSR. But in our time it is the most popular glue for plastic models. It is used by both novice modellers, who collect models from time to time, and professionals.

Main Representatives conventional model adhesive:

Almost all manufacturers of prefabricated scale models produce such glue:

most famous "Glue for models" Zvezda " and "Modeler", ICM, Tamiya and Revell,

as well as good and inexpensive domestic-made glue from Plastmaster

and glue from KAV-models

I used "Plastmaster" glue and "KAV-Models" glue in my work - wonderful chemistry, they stick together well.

Superfluid Model Adhesive

Super-fluid adhesive leaves virtually no marks on the surface of the model

Tamiya glue comes in a glass jar and comes with a built-in brush. You can also choose the smell: Lemon or Orange.

I use Tamiya Lemon Superfluid Glue. More like an orange scent. The smell is not strong and doesn't bother me at all. Glues well. I use it as the main washing glue.

Mode of application: Attach the parts to be glued to each other and run along the seam with a brush with glue. The glue will penetrate into the joint and "weld" the parts.

Main Representatives: Tamiya and Akan

Transparent Model Adhesive

Many prefabricated models come with a sprue with transparent details. To carefully glue the transparent parts together or glue them to the body of the model, a special "Transparent" glue is used.

This glue has no welding effect. The parts are glued together due to the basis of the glue itself, which becomes transparent after drying.

Mode of application: It is necessary to apply glue on both surfaces to be glued, let it dry for several minutes and while the glue remains sticky, press the parts together.

Key Representative: Revell Contacta Clear

Cyanoacrylate Model Adhesive

Cyanoacrylate glue - known to everyone as "SuperGlue".

The name "superglue" common in everyday life is a translation into Russian of the Super Glue trademark. This name in the former USSR became a household name.
Super Glue was first obtained in 1942 (during World War II) by the American chemist Harry Coover, who worked for Eastman Kodak, in the course of experiments to find transparent plastics for optical sights, however, the substance due to excessive stickiness was rejected. In 1951, American researchers, while searching for a heat-resistant coating for fighter cockpits, accidentally discovered the property of cyanoacrylate to firmly glue various surfaces. This time, Coover appreciated the possibilities of the substance, and in 1958 superglue went on sale for the first time, blowing up the market.
In the USSR, the glue was produced under the name "cyacrine".
Adhesives based on cyanoacrylates easily withstand loads of 150 kg / cm², and more advanced ones - 250 kg / cm². The heat resistance of the joint is low and comparable to the heat resistance of acrylic plexiglass: from 70-80 °C for conventional adhesives, up to 125 °C for modified ones.
Cyanoacrylate is a strong, fast setting, instant adhesive. Easily bonds non-porous and water-containing materials. Sets in less than a minute and reaches maximum strength in two hours. However, its shear strength is low.

Cyanoacrylate is a very popular glue among modellers due to its properties to quickly and firmly glue different materials. For example for bonding metal parts or resin parts to plastic.

Long-term storage requires conditions with low humidity and low temperature from +5 to +10°C.

Cyanoacrylate glue can be bought at any store. Household tubes are much cheaper, and the quality should be no worse.

I bought several tubes of various "Super Glue" on occasion.

Lately I've been using "Universal Glue", which is in the center of the picture. I bought it in a magnet. I bought 5 pieces at once. Always useful in everyday life.

While using Cyanoacrylate glue when working with photoetching, I deduced several laws:

1. If, after fitting and training, the parts are glued quickly, evenly and neatly, then one of the parts is not the same!

2. If necessary details glued quickly, evenly and neatly, then one of the parts is glued upside down.

3. If before gluing you were convinced of the correctness of the details, then glue it only on the third attempt, crookedly and inaccurately.

Adhesive for photoetching

"Plastmaster" produces a special adhesive for photo-etching: Ordinary and reinforced.

On this moment I use this glue at work. After application, I will write and tell you in more detail.

Two part epoxy model adhesive

Principle of operation: Under the action of the hardener, the epoxy resin hardens, and a strong connection of the parts is obtained. This glue is great for wood, resin and fiberglass models, for mounting metal parts to the above materials, for repairing radio controlled models, for small home repairs. Some types of epoxy resin allow you to form parts from them. But the use of epoxy in plastic models is difficult, epoxy does not adhere to plastic.

The curing time of epoxy glue depends on its type and brand, from one hour to a day. Heat exposure reduces this time.

I have a regular epoxy adhesive for home DIY repairs.

Fellow modeller Dmitry Ignatychev mentions epoxy glue "Contact" in his blog, and I found UHU brand glue. The UHU brand produces a lot of useful things for modellers, such as Office Clay.

It's a handy two-pack. With one pressure, the components from the two tubes are mixed in the outlet on their own.

Tamiya has a special model epoxy adhesive.

So if you need epoxy glue, then you have plenty to choose from.

Modeling is a fun and rewarding hobby for kids and adults alike. Assembling models of cars, ships, aircraft with your own hands, fantasy and creative thinking, attentiveness and perseverance develop.

The choice of sets and individual parts in the stores of models for gluing is large, so it will not be difficult to find one for yourself or your child.

A rare modeling process can do without glue. Manufacturers offer a wide range of options. Let's figure out what types of mixtures are suitable for this hobby.

Types of glue for assembling models

Universal standard adhesive. It has been used since Soviet times for working with plastic models. It is based on polystyrene and butyl acetate. It works due to the so-called welding effect. First, a partial dissolution of the plastic occurs on both surfaces when the edges of the parts are joined. After the connection of the parts and the composition itself hardens, a solid joint is formed, that is, the two parts become one. Also, the grip is provided by the polystyrene included in it. A special feature of this glue is that it is recommended to apply it to products before joining, that is, first the mixture must be kept for a couple of minutes on each part, and only then they should be joined.

The glue is superfluid. Differs in the increased penetrating ability, liquid structure. Parts are held together by partial dissolution of plastic. The advantage of this adhesive is the ability to penetrate between folded parts. Another important plus is that it leaves almost no traces after solidification, only a slightly rough cloudy surface remains. This glue for models of planes, cars, ships seizes very quickly. For ease of use, the use of a synthetic brush is recommended.
The glue is transparent. Designed to work with transparent parts. The fastening of parts is carried out not due to the effect of welding, but due to the base, which becomes transparent when dried. The mixture is applied for 5-10 minutes on the surface of the parts, and then combined.

RELATED VIDEO

Cyanoacrylate adhesive. In our country, it is better known as superglue or Super Glue. It was invented in the USA during World War II by a scientist who was looking for transparent plastics for optical sights. Then the substance was not used, it happened only in 1951, when the Americans needed a heat-resistant coating for the cockpits of military aircraft. Then, after another seven years, the composition hit the shelves of stores and literally amazed everyone. Today it is produced under the brands "Claybury", "Second", "Monolith", "Super Moment" and others. It is an instant adhesive, maximum bond strength is achieved after two hours. Suitable for porous and moisture-containing materials. In modeling, he took a leading place, as it allows you to fasten parts from different materials. In stores, you can buy super-glue of regular and gel-like consistency. The second option is more convenient to apply, as it does not spread.
Glue epoxy. Epoxy resin, when mixed with a hardener, bonds fiberglass, wire, wood products well, but dissolves polystyrene parts. Epoxy two-component adhesives are presented not only in ordinary tubes, there is also packaging specifically for modeling. For example, with the “Contact” glue, both the resin and the hardener can be squeezed out at the same time, and they will be mixed in a special compartment in the same proportions.

The choice of means for modeling is very large. Consider the most popular.

Glue for prefabricated models "Star"- it is with him that many begin their journey into modeling. It's inexpensive and available remedy, belongs to the polystyrene group. Provides a strong bond. However, many note the inconvenient shape of the bottle, which is why it often spills.

The kit does not come with any devices to facilitate the work with the composition. Glue quickly penetrates into the parts and seizes. Completely hardens within a day. If it's over and not at hand new packaging, you can mix the foam and the solvent, you get a glue similar in properties.

Presented in several versions. Perfectly fastens plastic, does not leave stains when dried. The jar is stable, equipped with a brush for application.

The composition can be applied to each part before gluing, or you can first connect them and apply a little glue, which itself, due to its high fluidity, will spread over the joints. The company offers a traditional version and a lemon-scented glue.

Mixes for modeling "UHU"- well fasten plastic parts, as well as plastic with metal, leather, paper. They work according to the method cold welding", that is, the composition of the adhesive for models of this manufacturer ensures the dissolution upper layers plastic.

It is presented in several options with different packaging. There are jars with brushes, tubes with a needle tip, regular bottles with a cap.

Models of any complexity are made of plastic - planes, ships, cars. Quality adhesive for this material should not spread over smooth surface, so it must be chosen carefully.

There are a lot of manufacturers producing adhesives specifically for plastic. So, you can safely use polystyrene compounds from Revell, Italeri, Tamiya, Zvezda. Despite the similarity of properties, they can be divided into three groups:

Liquid - sold in polyethylene bottles with a convenient applicator.
Medium density - presented in glass jars with a brush on the lid.
Thick - packed in tubes. They freeze the slowest of all, so they allow you to work without rushing.

Polystyrene mixtures, after being applied to parts, penetrate and harden, forming a strong connection. You can use glued parts in an hour, but the product will finally set in a day.

Revell's adhesives for plastic products are sold in cans with a needle, Tamiya equips cans with a brush, but Zvezda's adhesives come to stores without additional tools.

you should not add too much mixture to the junction of the parts, you risk staining the hands, the tool and the parts themselves with the resulting surplus,
if a drop hits a part, do not try to wipe it off, wait until the composition dries and sand this area,
liquid glue must not get under the masking tape, otherwise, after completing the work and removing the film, you will find that the plastic “floated” under it,
the junction with super-glue turns out to be fragile, so it’s better not to touch it, you can additionally degrease it,
follow the instructions for use indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging,
use products strictly for their intended purpose and only for those materials for which they are intended,
when working with toxic compounds, it is recommended to use protective gloves.

Glue for models

Model stores offer a fairly large assortment of glue for models from different manufacturers and for different types works. At first, it is quite difficult for a beginner to understand this diversity. Hopefully this article, based on personal experience, will be useful for novice modeling enthusiasts.

As a rule, everyone first buys glue for the Zvezda models. This glue has two advantages: it is available in all model stores and costs a penny. This is where the pluses end and after a very short time the glue from the bottle is spilled at best on the table, at worst - on the carpet, because. the shape of the bottle is designed just for this. In general, try it - you will not like it. :)

Adhesive for models Tamiya cement extra thin with the smell of lemon

This glue for models is our everything! Excellent for gluing PS-plastic from which models are made, leaves almost no marks on the surface of the model. The lid is equipped with a brush, which is convenient to apply glue to the surfaces to be glued. The bottle is very stable, you can't accidentally turn it over.

Glue can be applied to the joints of the parts before gluing, or first join the parts and then just gently apply a small amount of glue to the joint. Due to its good fluidity, the adhesive itself will spread over the joint and reliably wet the surfaces to be glued. All in all, they are a pleasure to work with!

Tamiya has two types of this glue, lemon scented (actually, it smells more like orange) and traditional (green label). I chose scented glue (it is a little more expensive) so as not to cause discomfort to my household.

As practice shows, this amount of glue is enough for a very long time, the consumption is minimal. Glue is very economical.

Adhesive for models Tamiya cement with the smell of lemon

It has a thicker consistency and the brush is thicker. For other characteristics, the same high-quality glue.

I use it in cases where it is necessary to practically "weld" one part to another. Although, liquid glue copes with this task just as well.

I read somewhere on the forums that this glue can be diluted and get the exact same liquid glue as Tamiya Extra Thin, but I forgot how. In the same way, there is an analogue of glue without fragrance.

Cyanoacrylate adhesive

Cyanoacrylic glue Super Moment. 3 gr.

It is sold in any supermarket in 3g packs and under different brands. Used when you need to glue parts made of tin, photo-etched or any other materials other than model plastic. For example, all tin parts were glued together with this glue. In model online stores, there is a specialized glue for models based on cyanoacrylate. In fact, this is the same glue from the supermarket, only several times more expensive, I see no reason to buy it.

Super glue sets instantly, which in our case is a disadvantage, because. it is impossible to correct the location of the parts to be glued after they are connected. The part glued with this glue is easily peeled off if you apply a certain amount of force, so you need to be careful.

For convenience, I use an empty pill box. I squeeze a drop of glue into the “cup” and apply it to the surface to be glued with a simple toothpick. It turns out very neat and economical.

"Palette and brush" for super glue

It is important to remember that cyanoacrylate vapors are quite toxic and work with him better in a ventilated area. Well, try to keep your nose away from the place of gluing, which does not always work :)

Glue "Moment"

Universal glue Moment

"Moment" is convenient to glue large parts made of tin to plastic. Before gluing, you need to apply glue on both parts with a thin layer, wait a while, and then press them together. It is convenient in that you can adjust the position of the parts for some time after gluing, excess glue is easily peeled off. The area to be bonded must be allowed to dry.

Denis Demin, AllModels channel, recommends diluting Moment glue with a solvent to obtain a more liquid consistency, which gives greater ease of use.

Glue moment crystal

Transparent glue Moment "Crystal"

I think to try it as a model glue for gluing transparent parts. Conducted an experiment on a transparent sprue. So far, not very impressive: air bubbles form in the drop and the glue dissolves the plastic a little.

Experiment with glue "Crystal"

Perhaps with a thinner layer of glue, the result will be better.

PVA

PVA glue is available at any supermarket or office supply store. In its original form - an opaque white liquid. But, when dry, it becomes almost transparent. The degree of transparency, as I understand it, depends on the cleaning of the glue. In general, most specialized transparent model glue is well-cleaned PVA. In the photo below you can see the degree of transparency of the PVA glue after drying.

Experiment with PVA glue

In fact, "Futura" is a liquid for polishing floors, but is used in modeling as a very fluid and opaque varnish. You can read more about Futura at this link. But in some cases it can also be used for gluing transparent parts. The place of gluing must be dried during the day.

There are certain difficulties in buying this "miracle liquid" in Russia, but I found a wonderful online store where you can buy "Futura" both in its original packaging and in 100 ml packaging. I recommend!

How to use model glue correctly

Don't pour too much liquid glue at the junction of parts, the result will not get better, but the likelihood that it will flow under the fingers or tweezers with which you hold the part, and they will leave an annoying imprint on the plastic, increases greatly.

If you accidentally "blurt" glue on the model, in no case try to erase it you'll only make it worse! It is better to let it dry well, and then gently sand the place where the glue got in, in this case the “destruction” will be minimal.

Make sure that liquid glue does not flow under the masking tape., he loves it and as a result, when you remove the tape, a surprise and a section of “floated” plastic will await you.

The place of gluing with super-glue is quite fragile. A little effort and the part flies off. Be careful. It is desirable to degrease the place of gluing, it will hold much better.

It is believed that not only for the full development of the child you need a hobby. Even an adult needs some kind of consolation, a change of scenery, a sphere of activity. Someone likes to collect stamps, someone prefers to spend their leisure time on a bicycle, and someone loves to collect models. It is characteristic that the latter hobby is suitable for both adults and children.

Like any occupation, assembling models requires certain knowledge and experience. In particular, it is not always easy to choose an adhesive for gluing plastic parts. Moreover, the market today is quite saturated with various models that have different properties.

purpose

To hold together plastic elements models need glue. It allows you to assemble one full-fledged product from a set of different parts. For high-quality assembly of models, you need to be attentive, accurate and consistent. Any mistake, for example, if you dilute mixtures incorrectly or connect parts, can lead to a violation of stability, a defect in appearance.

Kinds

If the parts are purchased, but the glue is not, you need to think about which mixture is more suitable. It is known that most craftsmen prefer domestic manufacturers. A good option is considered - Star, used to assemble models.

However, this does not mean that you need to immediately run to buy just such glue. First you need to determine the material from which the model will be made:

paper;
plastic;
resin;
metal.

epoxy resin products;
cyanoacrylic;
based on water;
polystyrene.

Let's understand a little about the principle of action of polystyrene glue. It is based on the melting of the polystyrene surface, which sticks together with a similar surface. When the parts come into contact, mutual melting of the coatings occurs, the agent penetrates the structure from one product to another.

As the mixture evaporates, the melted zones solidify. The product will be ready for use in a few hours. However, the manufacturer is still recommended to squeeze out a day. In addition, the drying time of the adhesive is determined by the thickness of the adhesive layer. After the product is ready, high bond strength is ensured.

It should be noted that a good adhesive connection will not work if polystyrene is not connected. In this case, it is better to use dichloroethane. It is a caustic substance and must be handled with care. With it, the glue provides a good connection. For these purposes, Zvezda glue is used.

Another group is cyanoacrylic. Provides a fast and strong connection. However, shear strength is not very good. If there is high humidity, such glue quickly hardens, it is poorly stored. Therefore, a low level of humidity and a small temperature corridor are needed - from plus 5 to plus 10 degrees. At home, you can use a household refrigerator for storage.

If during installation the part needs to be moved, the position adjusted, then it is worth choosing a gel. There are also retarders or activators to help craftsmen, respectively, slowing down or speeding up the process of gluing products. When working with such a mixture, the vapors emitted by the substance should be avoided. Therefore, you should try not to inhale air while working with this glue. You can get irritation of the mucous membrane if the composition gets on the skin - an allergic reaction.

The principle of operation of epoxy mixtures is based on the interaction with the hardener. In this case, the resin hardens, a strong contact of the surfaces is obtained. This version of the glue is used for gluing parts of radio-controlled models.

There are epoxy resins that make it possible to create entire models or clone parts. Such a composition cannot be used for gluing plastic parts. Resin will not adhere to plastic.

Fiberglass, resins, wood - this is what epoxy adhesive mixtures glue well. Metal parts can also be bonded to these materials. The composition can dry from 1 to 24 hours. To shorten the period, you can act with heat.

Note that all the options presented are toxic, so you can work with them only in a well-ventilated area, and preferably on the street. The mixture should not get on the skin, eyes, mouth. Otherwise, you need to promptly rinse the organ with water, it is recommended to consult a doctor.

Polystyrene

Such adhesives can have different densities:

Thick. Produced in small tubes. It dries for a relatively long time, but you can safely do work without thinking that the adhesive mixture can seize ahead of time.
Medium density. Supplied in glass vials. The cork is provided with an applicator brush.
Liquid. They are sold, as a rule, in polyethylene bottles with an applicator. These include just glue Star.

Star

This composition has a very high popularity, belongs to the polystyrene group. It has three important characteristics for this:

glues surfaces with high quality;
available in most fashion stores;
is inexpensive.

However, there are also some disadvantages. For example, users complain about the shape of the bottle, which has low level stability, as a result of which the composition is often spilled. In addition, there are no additional tools in the kit that facilitate the procedure for using glue.

Glue Star penetrates into the surfaces to be glued, hardens, interlocking parts. The initial use of the model is possible in an hour, however, it is recommended to wait a day for the connection to acquire the proper characteristics.

Results

Zvezda is a truly affordable leader for gluing plastic parts. However, sometimes it is not possible to purchase it, what should I do? There is a way out. Some users recommend mixing the solvent with the foam. This composition can replace Zvezda glue for gluing plastic surfaces. If it turned out to be thick, you can dilute it a little with a solvent.

It is very difficult to find a good quality glue that would stick together two plastic surfaces very fast and lasted a long time. In order not to look for a reliable manufacturer and not throw money on various brands of glue, make the glue yourself.

We invite you to watch a video on how glue is made for making plastic parts on your own at home, using improvised materials.

To make glue for plastic, we need:
- technical acetone;
- Styrofoam;
- a small glass vial;
- electrical tape;
- polystyrene shavings.

Pour acetone into a vial. We need to fill the third part of the bubble.

Add some styrofoam to the acetone bottle. Styrofoam can not be crumbled into small pieces; under the influence of acetone, it will dissolve on its own. We have enough of a piece that will be the size of our little finger.

We cut several such pieces of their foam with scissors and dissolve them in a vial in acetone. No matter how much foam you add there, it will dissolve, the liquid inside the jar will be cloudy in color.

After you have dissolved everything, the jar must be hermetically sealed. To do this, tape the lid to the jar with tape.

Next, you need to make additives from polystyrene. As an example, the photo shows you glue made from acetone, polystyrene foam and polystyrene.

We return again to our not yet ready glue. It remains for us to add a little shavings to it, which was taken from a bush of plastic polystyrene.

We fill a jar of acetone and foam with shavings and let it dissolve. Do not forget to make the jar airtight and again wrap everything with electrical tape.