How to make a screed on wooden floors. We make a floating concrete screed under the tiles on the wooden floor. Video

Many experts say that doing a screed on wooden floor does not make sense - it is too bulky, and there are quite a lot of materials for dry leveling the base. But in some cases, it is necessary to give the floor a certain rigidity and level it in height with the help of concrete mortar. This technology exists and determines the way how to make a screed on a wooden floor. It has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account in the process of work.

What you need to know about timber structures

Despite all its undeniable advantages, wooden structures have a significant drawback, which is their shrinkage. When the humidity regime changes, the wood changes its dimensions, increasing or decreasing in volume, shrinking in height, stretching or shortening in length. For this reason, the screed device on new boards is strictly prohibited. The leveling of the wooden base can be done only after three years of operation of the flooring.

The design of the wooden floor provides for the laying of logs on which the floorboards are mounted. It is worth noting that it is advisable to do a screed on them only if the logs lie on brick columns whose height is at least 30 cm. If the logs are located directly on the floor slabs, then it would be wiser to dismantle the floor boards, and make the screed in the traditional way .

What you need to know about screed

The design features of laying the screed on a wooden floor mean that it is completely isolated from the bottom layer of the base and is not connected in any way with it. From this follows its name - an unbound screed.

After the concrete mortar has completely hardened, the screed turns into a stone slab that is not subject to any linear changes, which cannot be said about wooden base on which it is poured. If the wood and the concrete layer are “bonded”, then the instability wooden structures under conditions of changing humidity conditions, it will cause the appearance of cracks on the concrete surface with its subsequent destruction. In this regard, a special technology has been developed that determines how to make a screed on a wooden floor so that it is not connected to either the base or the walls.

Basic principles of leveling a wooden floor

The technological process of the screed device on a wooden base consists in creating a waterproof layer between the moving wood and the monolithic concrete layer. To create such a border, use:

plastic film separating the screed from the wooden floor;
damper tape that cuts off the concrete layer from the surface of the walls.

This method allows you to get a floating leveling slab that is not connected to wooden structures - neither with log or block walls, nor with floor board. The screed, in this case, will not be exposed to the “moving” wood, as a result of which it will not crack or crumble.

To avoid the appearance of a fungus on the surface of the wood, it is treated with an antiseptic and a primer with a water-repellent effect. Only after that it is allowed to lay a plastic film on a wooden base.

Contact with polyethylene has a negative effect on wood, therefore, bituminous mastic or materials impregnated with bitumen are commonly used as waterproofing for wooden structures. But not in the case of a screed poured onto a wooden floor. Here, plastic film is most appropriate for certain reasons:

it does not stick to concrete;
the wooden base under it can swell and narrow without consequences;
the boundary between the screed and the floor does not allow the wood to draw moisture from the concrete solution during setting, as a result of which depressions do not form;
concrete does not absorb moisture from wood, and therefore, there is no need to be afraid of cracking.

How to make a screed

The work on the screed device begins with the preparation of the base:

remove boards;
check lags - those that do not inspire much confidence are replaced;
install additional logs if the step between them is less than 40 cm;
floor boards are returned to their place and fastened to the logs with self-tapping screws, damaged floorboards are turned over or changed to others;
check the floor for creaking - if necessary, identify the cause and eliminate it;
the gaps formed between the boards are sealed with a sealant and await its final setting;
treat the wood with an antiseptic, if it does not have a paintwork, as well as a water-repellent primer.

Next, determine the level to which the screed will be poured. With the help of a laser device, a “horizon” is marked on the wall at a height of about 50 cm from the floor, equal distances are laid down and a line is drawn that determines the level of the top of the screed.

The distance from the drawn line to the surface of the wooden floor should correspond to the average thickness of the future screed (usually 5-7 cm).

The next step is the insulation device, resulting in a waterproof pallet. For this:

along the walls around the entire perimeter, a damper tape is laid, a couple of centimeters wider than the thickness of the screed. It is attached with glue or double-sided tape;
a plastic film is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm on adjacent canvases and with an approach to the walls of at least 15 cm. The laid layer should not have folds and punctures, and even more so holes. Patches are applied to an accidentally torn film, and all joints are glued with adhesive tape.

On top of each of the concrete strips laid metallic profile and press it into the mortar until it is flush with the line marked earlier on the wall.

If necessary, installation reinforcing mesh, the work is carried out in several stages. First, the first layer is poured, after it hardens (about a month later), reinforcement is laid, and only after that beacons are set. To speed up the process in concrete mortar fiber is added, which provides strength to ties, the thickness of which is more than 5 cm.

On final stage work on the device of the screed, the mortar is poured with its alignment along the beacons, which are removed after a day, and the furrows are filled with concrete. As it sets, the screed is sprayed with water for a week and covered with polyethylene so that it can evenly part with moisture.

After the screed has completely dried, the process of its installation can be considered completed.

When implementing repair work often requires screeding. If logs are used as an overlap in an apartment or house, this does not mean that a screed on a wooden floor is impossible. For such work is used. Under certain conditions, this type of work is quite feasible. The article will discuss in detail the question of how to make a screed on a wooden floor and what is required for this.

Features of a wooden floor under the screed

The main disadvantage of wooden floors is that the tree continues to change throughout the life of the floor. Under the action of heat and moisture, cracks can occur along the beams, and the tree can also swell and delaminate.

The situation with a concrete base looks completely different. It deforms and shrinks only during its maturation, and then remains unchanged for many years.

A monolithic connection on a wooden floor would lead to the rapid destruction of the screed. To circumvent the destructive effect, a floating screed technology was invented, in which a layer is located between the floors, allowing wood and concrete to “live” according to their own rules.

The essence of the floor screed on wooden logs

The main secret of the screed wooden lags the separation of wood from concrete is considered an insulating layer:

The walls are insulated using;
It is separated from the base by any insulating material.

In this role, it is permissible to use the following materials: glassine, roofing material, polyethylene film, bituminous mastic, as well as newfangled roll materials. The leader in the application among the above materials is polyethylene film.

The negative side of its use is the creation of a greenhouse effect for a tree, and the positive sides include:

Creating a surface that prevents the connection of concrete and film as much as possible.
The absence of bonding does not deform the film during shrinkage of the concrete base.
An undamaged and integral insulating layer will not allow moisture to be transferred to the concrete floor, wood floor.

To eliminate the negative effect of a greenhouse, the wooden base must be treated with an antiseptic solution and a primer with a water-repellent property.

Preparing a wooden floor for screed

This is one of the most milestones of the entire repair, so all the steps described below must be strictly followed. The algorithm of work is as follows:

It is necessary to inspect all the floorboards on the floor, there should not be a floor with damaged boards in principle. All damaged items must be replaced.
You also need to inspect all the bearing logs and, if necessary, change them as well.
After the inspection, we fasten the floorboards back to the joists.
Next, all cracks on the surface are sealed using sealant.
After waiting for the sealant to dry completely, you need to start treating the floor with a waterproofing primer.
Applying laser level, the finishing floor line is marked.

When examining the lag, pay attention to the distance between them, if it exceeds 40 centimeters, then you need to install an additional number of them. If you need to fill a high screed, then the lag is also strengthened, or they are completely replaced with metal channels.

wood floor insulation

This stage guarantees the delimitation of the wooden floor, the concrete floor. To do this, we perform the following activities:

A damper film is attached to the walls along the perimeter of the room. In addition to a specialized product, it is permissible to use foamed polystyrene or an ordinary thin board. The tape is fixed on double-sided tape or construction stapler. The film should be several centimeters higher than the future screed, and its thickness should be at least one centimeter. After installing the final layer, the excess film is removed.
Next, lay the plastic film directly on the base. The overlap of the joints should be at least twenty centimeters, and it should go at least 25 centimeters onto the walls. Joints are fixed with adhesive tape. As a result, a kind of trough should be obtained, into which the screed will be poured. If during the laying of polyethylene film defects were found, then such a product cannot be used as insulation, a solid sheet must be used.

It is unacceptable to fasten beacons to the floor using screws or nails. It is necessary to use only "pyramids" from the solution, on which the beacons are mounted and aligned with the level of the clean floor. The distance between the beacons should not exceed the length of your rule. And from the walls they are installed at a distance of twenty centimeters.

Screed reinforcement on a wooden floor

The work of reinforcement is a prerequisite for screeding on a wooden floor, the use of a classic reinforcing mesh is undesirable, since it additionally makes the structure heavier. In this case, you can use microfiber.

It is added in the process of mixing the solution in the ratio indicated on the packaging of the fiber.

Pouring screed on a wooden floor

The screed on the wooden floor is poured in two options, the use of which depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

If the surface to be poured has a large area, then it is necessary to divide it into separate sectors and form the formwork. In this case, the work can be performed in several stages.

The room has a small area, then the pouring must be done in one stage, while from the beginning of the pouring to its end it should not take more than two hours, this is necessary to create a monolithic structure. In this case, the participation of an assistant is desirable to speed up the production process.

The algorithm for laying the solution looks like this:

We spread the solution a little higher than the mounted beacons and perform alignment using the rule.
On next day it is necessary to remove the mounted beacons, for this we pick out the solution and take out the beacons, then we treat the excavation sites with a primer and fill them with fresh mortar. The top is leveled with a trowel.
During the week, regularly moisten the surface of the concrete, and cover with plastic wrap. Also completely eliminate the appearance of drafts in the room.

Further repairs can be made after the screed has completely dried, this period is at least four weeks.

In the material described above, the principle of arranging a screed on a wooden base was considered. Based on this knowledge, you can perform this process yourself.

To reduce the repair time in a house or apartment, it is better to lay a new floor covering on top of the old one. It should be borne in mind that the old wooden floor is often uneven, and the surface is leveled before laying the tiles. To do this, you need to equip the screed. It is made using two technologies: standard concrete pouring and dry method. Let's consider them in more detail.

dry base

For several reasons this technology most preferred when working with a wooden floor:

ease of manufacture;
low weight of the structure;
good sound insulation;
ease of laying communications;
opportunity to correct mistakes;
no wet processes.

On a note! The last point means that when using the dry method, you do not have to wait for the floor to dry (unlike the process of creating a cement base).

This method also has several disadvantages. Such a screed on a wooden floor should be thicker than concrete (which reduces the height of the room). The consumption of materials will be higher than when creating a classic base for flooring. Dry base should not be done in rooms with high humidity, since the backfill draws in any vapors.

As a backfill, you can use:

expanded clay;
vermiculite;
perlite;
compavit.

Expanded clay is the most common filler. It must be clean (without dust and sand), otherwise the floor will start to creak very quickly. A suitable grain size is no more than 0.5 cm, they should be approximately the same size (otherwise, smaller granules will fall between large ones, which may cause flooring to sink). The minimum thickness of the expanded clay layer is 3-4 cm.

On a note! If the material is not defective, the expanded clay granule in the section should be porous. To make sure of their quality, expanded clay granules should be bought in bulk, and not in closed bags.

Work production technology

Getting started, evaluate the condition of the floors and the existing floor covering. Weak and damaged areas, rotten and moldy elements must be replaced. To do this, it is worth using the most dried parts to avoid rotting wood in the future.

If the boards sag, this can be corrected by laying additional logs. Nail heads that stick out above the surface must be deepened with a punch. Large irregularities can be cut with a scraper or planer.

How to make a screed?

The technology looks like this:

Stretch a layer of insulation (film) over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it must necessarily have a slight overlap on the walls (above the level of the future coating);
Take the edge tape and create a damper seam around the perimeter of the room;
Fill the space with insulating and leveling dry material and evenly distribute it over the design thickness;
Lay a gypsum fiber sheet over the backfill (this should be done without creating cruciform joints);
Next, lay the second layer of GVLV so that the seams of the first layer do not overlap the seams of the top one.

Important! The quality of the dry backing is highly dependent on how the first fibrous sheet was laid. Avoid the slightest distortion and digging into the backfill. It is better if you do this with the help of an assistant.

Classic floor screed

If you decide to go the traditional route of pouring the concrete base for the tiles, you will need to do the same preparation as you would with dry tech. Check the overlap and the condition of the boards, eliminate weak elements and irregularities, cover the cracks with epoxy putty.

On a note! Large cavities can be blown out with self-expanding foam and covered with a moisture-resistant acrylic sealant. Ideally, after the putty and sealant have hardened, the entire floor area should be treated with a waterproofing compound.

Preparation for pouring

A cement screed on a wooden floor needs the same preparatory measures as a dry one:

Spread a plastic film over the entire surface (with an overlap on the walls of at least 20 cm, you can fix it with an edge tape or adhesive tape), avoid wrinkles and bubbles;
Install beacons. To do this, lay slides of thick cement mortar on the film and fasten metal perforated slats on them;
Align the lighthouses with a level (add or remove mortar from the cement slides);
Make reinforcement. This can be done in two ways. The easiest is to add fiberglass or steel fiber to the solution (the strength of such a layer will increase as the cement hardens). Another method is associated with the installation of a continuous reinforcing mesh, which is laid on a layer of polyethylene under the supports of the lighthouse rails.

Important! In some cases, the thickness of the cement-sand layer may exceed 10 cm, which means that the logs and ceilings will be subjected to high loads. Before you build a tile cushion, consider reinforcing the floor further: residential buildings the lag laying step can reach 90 cm, it makes sense to reduce this distance to 40 cm.

Pouring and drying

The concrete base is poured onto a wooden deck according to the following algorithm:

knead cement mortar(M400 cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4), or use a ready-made mixture (the main thing is to ensure sufficient fluidity of the composition);
fill, evenly distributing the solution between the beacons and avoiding the appearance of air voids;
take the rule and level the surface with the beacons;
leave the filling to dry for 48 hours;
remove the beacon rails and fill the voids left after them with fresh mortar;
perform the final leveling of the surface with wet half-tracks.

Filling must be done in one go. If we divide this process into stages, the screed will turn out to be heterogeneous, which can lead to the rapid appearance of cracks, gaps and irregularities.

Apply the solution to the surface with a notched trowel, control the thickness of the layer by beacons or marks on the walls.

On a note! Concrete must gain strength before final curing. Therefore, you should slow down the drying process. To do this, moisten the surface and cover it with polyethylene. The solution will gain brand strength within 3-4 weeks. During this period of time, it must be moistened at least once every two to three days.

Just a couple of weeks after filling concrete base you can walk carefully, but it is better not to rush with laying tiles. Keep in mind that in the cold season the solution will dry more slowly. When it has completely hardened, cut off the film protruding along the edges and carry out the final leveling of the surface with grinder. After that, you can lay a new floor covering.

Summary

Even if you are planning to use a different flooring, it is important to screed the wooden floor under the tiles. It is a high density material and has a strong effect on structures below. Having dealt with the tile, you can easily cope with other materials.

Remember that screed is designed to eliminate relatively small irregularities and reinforce the surface before installing the tiles. To get rid of serious defects, you will have to replace the old boards or completely dismantle the old coating. Neither the concrete nor the dry base should move during operation. For a more complete picture of the technology of work, watch the video about the arrangement of the screed.

Video: wooden floor screed

Many of us know that a dry screed can be laid on a wooden floor. Sometimes even experienced builders do not advise making a wet screed from cement-sand mortar or concrete. But residents of apartments and houses with floors along the logs should not refuse tiles on the floor or underfloor heating systems. There are special technologies that allow you to arrange a wet screed on a wooden base.

Wooden base features

Despite the abundance of advantages, wood has one significant drawback - it continues to live its own life even after being used in a certain design. Eventually wooden elements amenable to all sorts of changes under the influence of moisture and temperature changes. They can shrink, swell, or warp.

Important: it is precisely because of the non-static nature of wood that the installation of a concrete screed on a freshly laid wooden floor is strictly prohibited.

Even after a few years, the wooden floor elements continue to move, warp and shrink. Underfloor heating systems made of wood cause characteristic structural changes with each temperature difference.

Concrete screed behaves quite differently. It is prone to deformation and shrinkage only during the solidification of the mixture. In the future, no special changes to the leveling layer occur. Rigid adhesion of movable living wood to a stable screed would lead to cracking and damage to the latter. That is why the non-bonded screed technology was invented, allowing each layer to "live by its own laws".

The nuances of the screed device

The essence of the method is that for a screed device on a wooden floor, it is necessary to isolate each layer. To this end, the concrete screed is separated:

from the walls of the room with a damper tape;
from a wooden base with insulating material.

As insulation, you can use polyethylene film, glassine, roofing material, bituminous mastic or modern roll materials. However, preference is given polyethylene film. Despite the fact that it creates a greenhouse effect for a wooden base, the film has a number of beneficial advantages for a concrete screed:

a smooth surface does not cause adhesion of the insulating layer to concrete;
concrete unattached to the film will not pull it along and tear during shrinkage or deformation;
the integrity of the insulating layer will not give the wooden base the ability to draw moisture from the hardening concrete;
the whole film will not allow the further hardened screed to absorb moisture from the wood, which can lead to cracks in the concrete floor.

Important: in order to negate the negative greenhouse effect of a plastic film on wood, all wooden base elements must be treated with an antiseptic and a water-repellent primer.

Technology

If you decide to make a screed on the floor along the logs with your own hands, then you should thoroughly understand the process of its device, which consists of several stages. More visual material for installation in the video suggested at the end of the article.

Preparatory stage

At this point, we need to do the following:

All boards must be removed and inspected. Rotten, damaged or cracked elements should be replaced.
We also examine the lags. We replace unreliable beams with new ones.

Tip: pay attention to step lag. If it is more than 40 cm, then it is better to install additional beams to increase the bearing capacity of the floor.

Install the floorboards. Boards with an uneven, damaged surface can be turned upside down.
All gaps between the boards are carefully sealed with sealant.
After the expiration of the curing period indicated on the packaging with the sealant, you can begin to treat the floor with a moisture-resistant primer. Give time for the primer to harden.
Using a laser device, we mark the level of the clean floor on the walls of the room.

Attention: when determining the height of the screed, please note that each centimeter of the thickness of the concrete layer presses on a wooden floor weighing 100-120 kg. Therefore, if it is necessary to perform a high screed, it is worth further strengthening the logs or replacing them. metal beams, for example, from a channel.

Insulation laying

At this stage, you need to make something, like a trough, from waterproof insulating material for pouring concrete. To do this, we do the following:

First of all, we attach a damper tape along the perimeter of the room to the bottom of the walls. You can use a special strip, regular board or a strip of expanded polystyrene. The tape can be attached with double-sided tape or with a stapler. Optimal Thickness stripes - 1-2 cm, and its height should be a couple of centimeters higher than the height of the screed. This element is needed not only for deformation movements of the screed, but also as a soundproof barrier. After laying the front layer, the protruding parts of the tape can be cut off.
Now it's the turn to lay the plastic film. Adjacent strips of the film should overlap each other by 10 cm. The joints of the film are sealed with adhesive tape. Also, the insulating layer must be wrapped on the walls of the room to a height of 15-20 cm. As a result, you will get a waterproof trough made of insulating material, on which you can safely pour the screed.

Attention: under no circumstances should there be holes, cuts or punctures on insulating material. If they appear in the course of the work, they should immediately be sealed with polyethylene patches.

Installation of beacons

It is strictly forbidden to fasten guide beacons with self-tapping screws or nails to the floor. It is best to lay them on cakes or mortar beds. From the walls, extreme beacons are installed at a distance of 20 cm (see video). And the step of the guides relative to each other is 1-1.2 m, but not more than the length of the rule.

As beacons, it is better to use guide profiles for drywall. The arrangement of beacons on the beds from the solution will facilitate their alignment with the level of the clean floor. The lighthouse can be drowned deeper into the solution or raised higher by adding more mixtures, thereby achieving the desired mark (see video).

Tip: if you do everything with your own hands, then keep in mind that after preparing the solution, it is better to lay the beacons within an hour.

Screed reinforcement

The device of a floating screed on a wooden floor along the logs requires additional reinforcement, especially if the layer height is more than 5 cm. Usually, the reinforcement of the screed is done using a metal mesh made of wire or reinforcement. But in the case of floors along the logs, it is better to use a lighter material that will not additionally load the screed. In addition, the metal mesh can easily break the insulating layer during pouring. That is why the ideal reinforcement on a wooden base will be fiber.

The fiber is added to the solution during its mixing. This method of reinforcement is suitable for doing it yourself. Fiber fibers randomly located in the screed ensure the strength of the layer in different directions.

Pouring concrete mixture

Regardless of how the mixture will be poured, with your own hands or with the help of hired workers, leveling is done in one of two ways:

If laying will be carried out over a large area, then it should be divided into separate sections (cards) using formwork and pour the mixture according to the cards. At the same time, it is allowed to take breaks in work when pouring individual sections.
If the room is small, then pouring can be done at a time, starting from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance. In this case, it is not allowed to take breaks in work, so it is better to fill with your own hands with an assistant. While one pours and levels the mixture, the other prepares a new portion.

Laying the solution is carried out as follows:

We spread a portion of the mixture between the beacons just above their level and level it with the rule. To do this, we lay the tool on the guides and pull it from side to side, leveling the mixture.
A day after laying the mixture, the beacons can be removed from the solution, and the recesses from them are treated with a primer and filled with fresh mortar. The top is leveled with a trowel.
The surface of the screed must be sprinkled with water for the first seven days and covered for the first four days. polyethylene film for uniform evaporation of moisture. Equally important is the constant humidity and temperature in the room.

Screed on a wooden floor under a tile can serve good decision for those who want to equip a bathroom or kitchen, and will also be appropriate for underfloor heating equipment.

Screed on wooden floor – not the best building solution, but with the right approach and certain conditions, you can successfully use such a connection in a wooden house.

What are the screeds?

The screed is upper layer on a wooden or concrete floor, which is later finished with a floor covering.

There are the following types:

Dry.
Cement.

In the first case, when using this type of screed, the surface becomes resistant to various loads and becomes high-strength.

It is made of drywall, moisture-resistant plywood or PVC sheets by laying on expanded clay or quartz sand. This type of flooring is the most suitable for a wooden floor.

A cement or concrete screed on a wooden floor is used as a base for a polymer coating or ceramic tiles.

Thanks to her, the process of leveling the floor from wood takes place. The owner of the premises can fill it himself.

Pros and cons of screed

Dry screed will correct mistakes

Dry screed has several advantages:

simple manufacturing;
if it is available, it is convenient to lay communications;
easy to fix mistakes;
no need to wait for drying.

However, it has some imperfections:

sometimes a significant thickness is necessary, while the height of the room decreases;
there is an increase in material costs.

With a poured concrete screed, the material consumption is small, but it takes a long time to wait for it to dry.

In any case, it is worth making a choice in the direction of one or another material. Correct solution will avoid further problems with other coatings.

Working conditions

How to make a screed correctly and follow all the stages of its construction? Concrete pouring under ceramics on wooden floors must be constructed in the correct sequence.

Characteristic steps before pouring

Before pouring the screed, check the wooden floors, repair defective places

An indispensable condition for the manufacture cement screed on the floor and applying tiles is to identify the life of the tree, which should be at least three years.

The reason for this is the ability of wood to dry out and deform over time. It will take from 2.5 to 3 years to “calm down” it. Movement can occur after this period, but not so clearly.

The option, if the floor is not new, provides for:

a thorough inspection of the floors and the floor itself;
identifying weaknesses and major faults;
selective replacement of damaged parts;
sealing cracks and crevices with special means;
removing the plinth and replacing it with wooden slats;
floor sanding and debris removal.

After pouring an ordinary screed and drying it becomes a monolith, which cannot be said about concrete on wooden floors. It will be possible to remove irregularities and increase the strength of the floor, but it will not work to get rid of the main flaws.

What is the best way to apply?

Between the tree and the monolith, it is necessary to lay a moisture-proof layer

For greater reliability, the method of "incoherent" screed for a wooden floor is used. At the same time, its isolation from the floor covering and walls is observed.

The floor is leveled first. A moisture-proof barrier is created between the moving part of the floor and the monolith.

For this it is used:

thick polyethylene film;
material in the form of a damper tape, which is fixed at the bottom of the wall and floor;
expanded polystyrene;
ruberoid;
material impregnated with bitumen.

Related article: Installation of fixtures in plasterboard ceiling

Wood must be treated with an antiseptic and a layer of waterproofing, preferably from bituminous mastic. Then you can lay the film, leaving a ledge of 20 cm on the walls and be sure to make overlaps. They are glued with adhesive tape, they achieve a complete absence of joints, holes and wrinkles. How to make a screed on a wooden base, see this video:

Advantages of a "non-cohesive" screed

Similar moisture barrier board:

is floating;
cut off from the plank base;
makes the screed independent of changes in temperature and humidity.

What should be the solution?

Use brand M 400 for screed

Self-leveling compounds must be included in the concrete mortar for screeding on a wooden floor. But the basis, of course, is cement and sand of the M400 brand.

Fill preparation steps:

Pour 25 kg of dry mixture with 6 liters of water;
mix by hand or with a mixer;
to achieve a homogeneous mass;
observe the desired temperature of the solution, it should not be lower than 10-15 degrees;
can be used warm water if the room is cold;

To achieve the strength and water resistance of the solution, you can add special plasticizers to it in the proportions indicated on the package. The option with the addition of a simple washing powder, one handful per 100 liters of water, is also suitable here.

The process of implementing a cement screed on wooden logs

Sometimes in wooden houses or old apartments, a concrete screed on wooden logs may be necessary.

Due to the fragility of the tree, the structures need to be strengthened.

This is done by setting metal frame or mesh, as well as a channel.

Before the construction of the frame, a heater made of expanded clay, perlite or other materials with low thermal conductivity is poured into the space between the lags.

Sufficient density and elasticity of the solution must be achieved by adding polystyrene, vegetable fibers and other necessary components. Such additives will also perform the role of sound insulation.