How tiles are made. How to make paving slabs at home - do-it-yourself technology and features. How to mix concrete mortar

When planning the arrangement of garden paths on your personal plot, you always want to create functional and at the same time beautiful elements landscape design. Material for garden paths can serve wooden saw cuts, a natural stone, gravel ... But still, the most popular among the owners of suburban areas as a coating for sites and paths is paving slabs, which have an attractive appearance and excellent quality characteristics. Do-it-yourself paving slabs will become an original addition to the design of the site, in harmony with the style of the house and garden.

What are the benefits of homemade tiles?

Do-it-yourself production of paving slabs is quite laborious and long enough, but at the same time quite fascinating process. The result of the work is exclusive products, successfully combined into picturesque paths.

Interesting ideas for decorating garden paths can be found in the material:

Such unusual paths serve as a worthy frame for flowering plants garden

In addition, making paving slabs with your own hands will significantly save money in the family budget, because the purchase of a finished coating is many times more expensive.

Homemade tiles may not be suitable for covering areas that are designed to accommodate heavy structures or vehicles, but they will be an excellent solution for walkways in the garden. At proper manufacture concrete mix and exposure to all stages of production technology, you can get a product with 100% durability.

Using colors and pigment dyes, you can create tiles of various shades.

By experimenting and coloring solutions with colorants, you can get incredible combinations and patterns. Himself is an interesting activity that allows you to unleash your creative potential, bringing a lot of pleasure and positive.

Manufacturing process step by step

To make original paving slabs with your own hands, first of all, you need to purchase the material of manufacture and stock up on the necessary tools. The tile is created on the basis of a mixture of cement, sand and water with maintaining proportions that depend on the purpose of the product and the brand of cement used. For the manufacture of durable garden paving slabs, it is advisable to use cement grade M 500. It is not worth saving on the quality of the material, so as not to stumble on a crumbling path later.

Sand and mortar water must be free of dirt and leaves. It is not scary if small pebbles are present in the composition of the sand. Their presence will not affect the quality of the concrete. But the product will acquire an unusual texture.

Advice! With the help of plasticizers, it is possible to increase the strength of paving slabs and its resistance to temperature changes.

A wide range of plastic molds for pouring are available in specialized stores. They can have completely different shapes and sizes. Each of them is designed for 200 fills. To speed up the manufacturing process, it is advisable to purchase ten pieces of each type of shape.

Combining 2-3 product configurations, you can create unusual ornaments and fancy "snakes"

It is also possible to use plastic containers as molds for food products, which have sufficient flexibility, softness and strength. Using containers of simple shapes with even sides and right angles, you can make rectangular "bricks".

These tiles are easy to fit together when laying.

Solution preparation

The necessary components are ready, we can safely start making exclusive paving slabs with our own hands. You can mix the sand-cement mixture as manually, and with the help of a perforator having a mixer nozzle. When planning to create coatings amounting to several tens or even hundreds of tiles, it is advisable to stock up on a concrete mixer to facilitate the process. It’s great if it is already in the owner’s arsenal. After all, such construction equipment can be used for many purposes, from concreting a stream bed in a garden to repairing fence posts.

In a container, which can be used as a basin or bucket, 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand are poured

When kneading the solution in a concrete mixer to obtain a homogeneous mass, you first need to pour sand, and then cement is poured into a continuously rotating container.

Add water to the mixture gradually, without ceasing to mix the solution. Exceeding the amount of water in the solution can lead to a decrease in the strength of the finished concrete. To prevent this, water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber are added to the solution during mixing and pouring.

The consistency of the solution should be pasty: a little liquid, but not slipping off the trowel

It is possible to paint tiles in the most unusual colors with the help of inorganic pigments, which have increased resistance to light and atmospheric phenomena, as well as an alkaline environment. The amount of dye for the solution is selected by the "sampling method", starting from 30-50 g and gradually increasing the proportion. The composition acquires a uniform color after 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the composition is determined by the absence of lumps and uniform coloring of the entire volume of the material.

Filling in forms

Before pouring the form, it is advisable to lubricate with emulsol or any oil (you can even use used machine oil). This will subsequently facilitate the disassembly of the frozen product.

Forms are poured with mortar and tamped with a trowel

It is possible to increase the strength of the product by laying a metal mesh, rod or wire into the form filled up to half with concrete, and then supplementing it with the remaining solution to the brim.

In order to compact the cement mass and expel excess air bubbles from the solution, it is necessary to create concrete vibration. For these purposes, a vibrating table is used. In the absence of such a design, a rack or shelf can serve as an alternative to it. To create vibration, it is enough to perform several taps on the table with a mallet.

Drying and removal of products from containers

Forms filled with concrete are covered with plastic wrap and aged for 2-3 days. During this period, it is important to maintain a sufficient level of moisture. To do this, it is advisable to periodically moisten the hardening products.

The place where the blanks dry should be hidden from direct sunlight.

After 2-3 days after casting, the tiles can be unmolded by slightly moving the sides and shaking. Dry the product in the shade for another 3-4 weeks. During this time, the tile will acquire sufficient strength, and it can be used as a covering for garden paths and recreation areas.

Wide range of available building materials and the availability of high-quality tools make it possible to produce various blanks used in finishing work at home. No longer a curiosity fake diamond own production and garden paths.

Paving slabs are no exception. But before starting work, it should be noted that it will take much more time to lay the site or path due to the technological production process.

Watch a video on how to make paving slabs with your own hands

The advantages of making paving slabs with your own hands

Material can be prepared as much as needed;

Saving the budget for the improvement of the site;

The ability to choose a design and color that blends harmoniously with the exterior of the site;

The result is a high-quality exclusive product;

Long operating period.

And, in addition, everyone will be able to show hidden talents and skills, reveal their creative abilities, bringing their own zest to the workflow.

What is required for work

To begin with, it is recommended to outline the boundaries of the site on which paving slabs will be laid. This is required for calculations. Supplies and determining the volume of production. After drawing up the estimate, proceed to the purchase of materials. To mix the solution you will need:

Read also: Bouquet with flowers from seeds: do-it-yourself flowers from seeds (with photo)

Cement grades M-400 or M-500;

Fine sand cleared of debris;

Crushed stone of fine fraction;

plasticizers;

Pigments;

Some technologies do not include plasticizers in the working mixture. Without these components, the finished tile will not be able to withstand the effects of a humid environment and may crumble after several seasons. Therefore, you should not save on a reinforcing and water-repellent substance.

In addition to consumables, you will need tools:

Construction mixer;

Rubber mallet;

mixing container.

In the process of pouring the mixture into the mold, it will be necessary to compact it to prevent the formation of air cushions. The easiest way is to use a mallet (rubber mallet), which needs to be tapped along the edges of the mold. The created vibration contributes to the release of air from the solution. If the volumes of workpieces are large, then you can not do without a vibrating table. You can rent it or make your own. You can also use a perforator.

As forms, special containers designed for the production of tiles or kitchen vessels of various configurations can be used. Alternatively, make molds out of wood or concrete. You should not use intricate sketches for blanks, because it will be difficult to lay such a tile.

Solution preparation

The kneading is performed immediately before pouring, so you first need to prepare the molds by treating their inner surface with grease from a can.

Read also: How to get rid of mold on the walls: tricks and methods

Place cement and sand in the required ratio in a large container and mix thoroughly. After that, add in portions clean water, constantly stirring the mass. Fine crushed stone is added while the mixer or concrete mixer is running, after which a plasticizer is added to the solution.

Staining is carried out in several ways:

Adding pigment to the finished solution;

Applying color to inner part matrices;

Coating the surface of the finished tile.

Each of the options requires strict adherence to technology, then the pigment will give the product a presentable appearance.

Filling and drying

You need to fill the matrices with the finished mixture with a trowel, doing this in portions with intermediate tapping of the walls with a mallet. You can also press the solution flat surface tool.

The next step is the expulsion of air from the building mixture. To do this, the filled molds are installed on a vibrating table. If during the compaction process voids form in the corners or along the edges, they should be filled with a mixture. When air circles cease to appear on the surface of the cement composition, the molds are removed to dry.

After 2-3 days after pouring, the cement will set, so it can be removed from the matrix. Do this carefully so as not to damage the tile. The blanks laid on drying racks will reach strength in a week, and finally take the appropriate technical specifications firmness only after a month.

How to make paving slabs with your own hands: tips / recommendations

To lubricate the molds, in addition to a special composition, you can use sunflower or motor waste oil, soap solution. It is better not to use the salt mixture, it leaves white marks on the tile.

Paving slabs have become almost the only acceptable option for creating footpaths on suburban area, pedestrian paths in parks, sidewalks, barbecue areas. It is indeed more durable than concrete and wood, more practical than gravel and safer than asphalt, but despite the variety of modern tiles, making your site original is becoming increasingly difficult. And the prices for complex figured products often bite. But there is a way out - you can make paving slabs with your own hands at home.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade tiles

Those who have not yet decided to create a homemade tile are frightened by two considerations: a significant investment of time and doubts about the quality finished products. But considering the possibility phased production, which allows you to do production on weekends or in your spare time, the process is not so long. In addition, the cost of materials will also stretch over time, because allocating 10% from the family budget for 3-4 months is much easier than spending half of the monthly income at once.

As for quality, it is enough to adhere to the technology and not try to save a lot, then the finished tile will serve for decades.

A combination of gray and beige tiles (from white cement) looks stylish and helps save on pigments

Table: comparing the advantages and disadvantages of artisanal paving slabs

As you can see, for every drawback of homemade tiles, you can find a corresponding advantage. Therefore, if you want to proudly show your guests the work of your own hands, you can safely proceed to the implementation of the intended design of the tracks.

Existing manufacturing technologies

Tiles and paving stones, which you could see from your neighbors, are made using only three technologies: pouring into the formwork, vibrocasting and vibrocompression.

Driveway with imitation paving slabs by stamping

There is also a technique for imitation of paving slabs, when the texture is created by stamps on a wet surface. concrete surface. At first glance, the path may look like a paved path, but in fact it is a monolithic concrete slab with all its flaws. Looking closely at the seams, it is easy to see that they are inseparable from the plates and are not able to ensure the drainage of water into the ground. Therefore, if you liked the version with imitation seen in the photo, we recommend reproducing it in classical technology, from separate plates. In this case, your copy will last 3-4 times longer than the original.

Pouring into a removable formwork

Production of paving slabs by pouring into the formwork

Formwork pouring technology is the simplest and least time-consuming way to manufacture paving slabs. Products are cast directly at the place of use over compacted soil, so there is no need to spend any effort on drying and moving the plates. Since the mold is removed while the concrete is not completely cured, you can use only one mold and prepare small portions of the mortar in a bucket with a construction mixer (no concrete mixer). The form can also be filled incompletely, forming neat bends of the garden path.

But there are also disadvantages:

• the texture of the front surface of the plates is always the same, since the form is open and sets only the edge along the perimeter of each fragment;
• the concrete mixture cannot be compacted by vibration, so more plasticizer should be added to ensure strength;
• despite the addition of binders, the service life of such a tile is several times less than that of a vibrocast one.

Distinguishing a track from such a tile is quite simple. As a rule, it imitates the layout of a wild stone with fragments irregular shape, but the repetition of the pattern is easy to notice. Grass often grows in the seams of such tiles, since they are mounted directly on the ground without a sand and gravel cushion and often without backfilling the joints.

vibrocasting

Vibrocast paving slabs - the most common option

Vibrocast slabs are the most common option for paving private areas. The easiest way to distinguish a product of this technology is by design. Neither pouring nor vibrocompression creates a complex shape of a tile and a small textured pattern on its surface. Front side vibrocast tiles are usually more glossy, and the color is brighter than that of vibropressed.

Among other advantages of this finishing material:

• the service life of the tile is several times longer, since the vibration during casting expels air bubbles and enhances the water and frost resistance of the product;
• lower plasticizer consumption (compared to pouring into the formwork);
• the possibility of manufacturing a durable quality tiles at home with minimal equipment;
• a wide variety of ready-made forms from different price categories.

Of the shortcomings, only a small thickness of the plate can be distinguished, which does not allow the finish to withstand high mechanical loads. On a smooth tile, the risk of slipping also increases, so we recommend that you select textured shapes for manufacturing.

Vibrocompression

The paving stones in the parking area are vibropressed paving slabs

Vibrocompression - complex technological process. Its main difference from vibrocasting is that the solution in the form is subjected to powerful blows of a special press. As a result, the density of the concrete-cement mixture increases by an order of magnitude; in terms of its properties, the material is an analogue of an artificial stone. Therefore, it is it that is used for paving city sidewalks, paths in squares and parking areas in private areas. Due to its high density, the tile is very frost-resistant, it can withstand up to 300 freeze / thaw cycles.

The method is most often used for the production paving stones, not tiles. It is easy to distinguish by its increased thickness when small sizes(it looks more like a brick than a tile). In addition, such material is usually rougher, and its color is paler. Because the pattern on separate fragment impossible to do, to enhance decorative effect paving stones are laid in beautiful ornaments (at home, you can use the pattern for cross-stitching).

Among the disadvantages of vibropressed tiles, only the high price and considerable weight can be distinguished, which complicates transportation and installation.

Making paving slabs at home

Comparing the advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies, it is easy to come to the conclusion that vibrocast products should be manufactured at home. It remains to decide on the equipment and the necessary materials.

Even with homemade equipment from improvised means you can cast a good tile

What is needed for work

Usually the owners country houses have at least a little construction experience, and many even build their homes from the first foundation stone to the ridge on the roof. Therefore, some necessary tools and you probably have minimal skills to work with them.

Table: equipment for vibrocasting paving slabs

How to make a vibrating table yourself

Casting slabs without vibration by an order of magnitude reduces the durability of the product, although appearance it is not noticeable at first. Adding an additional volume of plasticizer to the solution slightly improves the situation, but experienced craftsmen nevertheless, it is advised to use at least a handicraft vibrating table.

Scheme of the device of a simple vibrating table

As can be seen from the diagram, the main difference between the vibrating table and the usual one is that the tabletop is not rigidly attached to the base, but through springs. This allows you to create the necessary vibration and at the same time ensure a stable horizontal position of the tile. If you have an unnecessary kitchen table with a metal frame, it may well become the basis for the necessary equipment. It remains only to attach the countertop through the springs and fix the motor from the old washing machine under it.

If you have firmly decided to make a fully functional analogue of an industrial vibrating table, you should start with a drawing.

Detailed drawing of the vibrating table with exact dimensions

In the found drawing, you can change:

• the height of the legs (the main thing is that there is enough material and it is convenient for you to use);
• proportions and size of the countertop (it is desirable that all forms of one batch fit on the table);
• the number of springs (if it seems to you that the available springs are weak, you can add to the four in the corners along the middle line of the long sides).

If you wish, you can reproduce this drawing exactly, or pick up a more suitable one on the net.

To implement the project, you will need the following tools and materials:

• a welding machine (a wooden base is not suitable for the product, and the fastening of the frame on the bolts quickly loosens from vibration, so welding is indispensable);
• grinder for cutting metal with the appropriate discs (it is better to buy consumables with a margin);
• drill for drilling mounting holes with a sharp drill;
• electric motor (for the manufacture of a small batch, a single-phase motor with a power of 700 W will be enough);
• sheet of metal for a countertop 6 mm thick or more (you can get by with more thin sheet, but it will need to be reinforced with rods or mesh and welded to the frame from the corner);
• metal corner (to determine the amount of material, add 4 table lengths and 4 widths);
• pipes of suitable length for table legs;
• pipe segments with a diameter of 2–4 mm larger diameter springs (needed to build glasses);
• 4 springs measuring 120x60 mm (used valve springs from a truck engine, which are often thrown into service stations, will do)

The correct spring for the vibrating table sags by 50% under the weight of the tile.

If you can place a vibrating table indoors, it is worth attaching it to the floor. It’s not worth welding, long hardware fastened with self-tightening lock nuts will be enough (they only fix it stronger from vibration).

This model of electronic potentiometer is suitable for operation in a standard 220 volt power supply.

To create the ideal vibration, you may need to adjust the speed of the motor. Therefore, when manufacturing a vibrating table, do not save on an electronic potentiometer. It will help you set up the appliance for optimal tile compaction.

Let's get to work:

1. Weld the skeleton of the vibrating table, following the proposed scheme. Be sure to control the correctness of the angles and the location of the glasses under the springs, so that later the tile lies strictly horizontally and does not “jump” off the table during operation.

   Angle clamp - best fixture for correct welding of right angles

2. Cut a sheet of metal to the required size and weld a narrow strip or corner around the perimeter so that a rim with a height of at least 5 cm is formed.

   The wider the corner, the higher the side and the more reliable the countertop

3. Weld the springs to the base and countertop, placing them exactly in the center of the glasses.

   The springs are welded at the corners of the frame, it remains to fix the countertop

4. Place an electric motor under the tabletop, if necessary, weld a separate mount for it. Attach an off-center weight to the motor shaft.

   The motor mount can be built from the remains of corners or pipes

5. Connect the potentiometer and bring the wire with the switch to the side of the table that is convenient for work and fix it on the leg.

   If the button is not secured, it may slip off due to vibration.

6. Rigidly fix the table on the base in the most convenient way (the choice depends on where and on what the working device will stand). If the table does not move during operation, it is not necessary to fix it.

   Tests of this vibrating table showed that it is quite massive and does not move during operation.

After assembling the structure, tests should be carried out without tiles and make sure that all connections are reliable. Touch up welds as needed, adjust motor speed, make other adjustments.

Video: making a vibrating table

Varieties of forms for paving slabs

Forms for tiles should be distinguished primarily by design:

• open (essentially a frame without top and bottom) are designed for pouring tiles right at the place of use;
• tray molds are only suitable for vibrocasting.

There are also special metal molds for vibrocompression, but they are needed only in production.

A variety of non-standard shapes for paving slabs

If we talk about the design of paving slabs, here manufacturers offer hundreds of different forms for making beautiful tiles:

• geometric tiles (squares, rectangles, five-, six-, octagons, circles);
• paving stones (imitation of old masonry with cobblestones, small bricks, rounded cubes);
• patterned tiles (models "Lily", "Antique", "Rondo" and others with fine detailed ornament);
• fantasy forms (leaves, turtles, fish, lizards, puzzles, scales);
• tiles with bas-relief (convex images of Greek heroes, dragons, snakes, characters of the Chinese epic, etc.).

Manufacturers offer molds for making halves of tiles, which allows you not to cut whole products when laying.

Table: comparison of forms for paving slabs from different materials

Gallery: forms for paving slabs from different materials

How to make DIY forms

Homemade forms for paving slabs are justified in two cases: either you want to save as much as possible, or you are going to create a completely exclusive design. In the first case, it is worth using improvised materials: pieces of wood, plastic scraps, unnecessary trays, molded plastic from packaging.

The process of making patterned paving slabs in a homemade form

Consider the process of making a mold based on a rubber mat.

To create such a shape, you will need a sheet of plastic or any other smooth material and four planks for the sidewalls (you can take an unnecessary box from an old bedside table). The junction of the base and sidewalls will need to be sealed with building silicone. It is desirable that the size of the mold be exactly adjusted to the parameters of the rug. The mat should be carefully fixed to the bottom with the same construction sealant. To check the correct assembly, try pouring water into the mold, it will help to detect cracks. Treat the mold with oil, and you can proceed to the first pour.

Making tiles in a homemade wooden mold

Wooden formwork can also serve as the basis for more complex forms. For example, such a detachable hexagon can be made from any pieces of wood found in the country, you just need to trim their geometry and carefully check the dimensions. If desired, you can build a cell-shaped form the size of a vibrating table and carry out pouring and drying directly on it.

The process of making a silicone mold for paving stones

The process of creating a silicone mold will not do without formwork. For manufacturing, it is desirable to have a sample of the desired tile or fill the formwork with stones of a suitable shape, pebbles, tiles, etc. It is best to fill the bottom of the formwork with sculptural plasticine and lay the selected samples on it so that they do not move during pouring. After that, strictly according to the instructions (each manufacturer has its own), mix the components of the silicone compound and fill the formwork with them. You can make several forms in one formwork, or create different variants the location or shape of the stones.

Using the same technology, self-made molds are made from gypsum, polyurethane, and injection molded plastic.

Forms of any origin should be lubricated with Emulsol, spindle oil or an emulsion of 1.5 liters of soap solution and 50 g of vegetable / mineral oil before use.

Video: mold release test

Mortar materials

When making a solution, you will need:

• cement grade not lower than M500 to ensure the strength of the tile;
• sand (necessarily cleaned and carefully sieved) as a filler;
• small gravel or screenings (filler, enhances the solution, makes the product textured);
• pure water room temperature without sediment;
• fiberglass for reinforcing tiles, increasing resistance to mechanical stress (instead of fiber, you can lay a reinforcing mesh in each shape);
• plasticizer marked C-3 (makes the solution homogeneous, increases frost and water resistance, reduces cement consumption);
• dye for concrete mixtures in the form of a powder or a ready-made solution (if you need a colored tile).

To give the tile additional water-repellent properties and speed up hardening, liquid glass can be added to the solution.

Tiles need fresh cement. Squeeze the powder in your fist: if all of it has spilled out, it will do, if it has gathered in a lump, it is too old.

How to mix the solution

1. Moisten the walls of the concrete mixer, pour 2 liters into the tank warm water and completely dissolve the plasticizer in it.

   Liquid plasticizer is easier to work with, it dissolves quickly and without lumps

2. In a separate container, mix the dye with hot water in a ratio of 1:3 and stir until completely dissolved.

   The higher the pigment concentration, the brighter the tile will turn out.

3. When you make sure that there are no lumps in both solutions, mix them and add sand to the concrete mixer, after 30 seconds - screening, 20 seconds after it - cement. Add water as needed until you use the specified amount.

   Calculate the volume of one serving so that your concrete mixer can knead it well

4. The finished mass should be homogeneous, without foreign inclusions and keep on the trowel with a slide without slipping.

   With a solution of the correct consistency, it is easy to work with a trowel of any shape

Table: optimal proportions of components for paving slabs

How to cast, dry and make stripping

1. The finished solution is poured into lubricated forms, you can directly on the vibrating table.

   Rectangular molds are denser on the table, which allows you to increase the batch

2. After that, vibration starts, during which the mixture is compacted and you need to add it. Keep a batch of tiles without a plasticizer on a vibrating table for 3 minutes, without it - 30 seconds, or until a white foam appears.

   Foam is clearly visible on the forms, which means that the air has already left the solution

3. Next, you should wrap the filled forms with a film and leave to dry on a rack for 2-3 days.

   OSB sheets + pipe cuttings = temporary shelving

4. The dried tile is easily removed from the mold, it is enough to bend the ends and shake out the product on a soft bedding. But if it doesn't work out, lower the mold for a few seconds in hot water - the mold will expand and the tile will slide out.

   Vertical stacking prevents tiles from splitting during storage

Video: do-it-yourself paving slabs

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step by step instructions

Laying paving slabs on your own will not be physically easy, so you should invite one or two assistants to work.

Necessary materials and tools

• trowel for working with mortar;
• mallet for tapping tiles;
• manual tamper;
• marking pegs and cord;
• water level;
• pipe / beam as a guide;
• watering can or watering hose for compacting the sand cushion;
• rake, broom;
• cement brand M500;
• clean sifted sand.

Execution of work

1. Draw a plan for the location of the tracks and make markings on the ground with pegs and cord. Please note that for normal drainage, you need to make a slope of 5 mm per 1 m of length.
2. Prepare the base of the track by removing upper layer earth with grass and compacting the remaining soil. This can be done with a manual rammer, but it is better to rent a special vibrator. The depth of the resulting trench should be 20–30 cm.

   Ways to create pillows for paving slabs

3. Lay the tile on top of the pillow in the direction away from you, taking into account the position of the marking cord. The width of the seams is regulated by plastic crosses. If necessary, cut the tile into fragments to tightly fill the space between the borders. Align the position of the tiles with a mallet.

   Contrasting border makes the track more original

Video: laying paving slabs

We determine profitability

On average, it turns out that 1 m 2 of homemade paving slabs is 55% cheaper than purchased. And if we take into account that the resource of forms is enough for 100–200 cycles, subsequent batches will be even more profitable. Of course, with the current level of competition, it is no longer profitable to create a business for the production of paving slabs, but it is worth making it for your own needs on your own.

Now you have all the necessary knowledge to successfully make and lay beautiful and durable paving slabs on your site.

How nice it is when everyone own house made by hand. By inviting guests, you can proudly display your creations and listen to admiring reviews. Plus, all the timing and quality of the work done depend only on you and you can still save a lot. Buying everything ready is the easiest, but try to do it yourself! How to make molds for pouring? Let's start with the fact that everyone knows the benefits of tiles, whether it is tiled or ceramic, or maybe made of concrete or gypsum, whether the walls of the house are finished on the outside, inside or the yard. In any case, the tile is a guarantee of cleanliness, because it is easy to wash and clean. At first glance, it may seem that it is difficult to do, but it is not, because as often the eyes are afraid - the hands are doing it.

Paving slabs are laid in the yard, the paths are paved with it, thereby ennobling their Vacation home or give.

Most often, tiles are laid in such parts of the house as the kitchen, bathroom, toilet. Paving slabs are laid in the yard, paths are paved with it. But modern design has no prohibitions and therefore tiles can be laid even on the outer part of the walls of the house, for example, if you have a patio, you can make part of the yard for picnics, put a table, benches, chairs or wicker chairs. You can put tiles on one of the walls of the house, put a barbecue or barbecue and a table next to it, equip it with everything necessary for marinating meat, it will turn out like a kitchen, only on the street. Manufactured garden tiles DIY is not only a great way to save money, but also an opportunity to learn something new.

Do-it-yourself mold for pouring

Of course, you can buy a do-it-yourself mold, but this will be the easiest. And since it was decided not to look for easy ways, we will make it ourselves. Forms are different rubber, plastic, silicone. Craftsmen make them from any materials from wood to children's sandbox molds. We will consider the liquid silicone or plastic method, because it is not difficult or expensive.

Forms are different rubber, plastic, silicone. Craftsmen make them from any materials from wood to children's sandbox molds.

We will need:

1. Lumber.
2. Liquid plastic (silicone).
3. Building level.
4. Saw.
5. Screws.
6. Drill.

A frame in the form of a box is constructed from lumber, checked building level so that everything is smooth, since the evenness of our form directly depends on this. The parts of the container-box must be glued so that there are no gaps, otherwise the plastic will flow out. Inside, you need to carefully lay the sculptural clay, the children's clay will not work, because it is too sticky, we lay it almost to the middle. A mold model is placed in plasticine. Holes are made in the plasticine with a pencil so that later the layers do not move, these will be locks. It is measured how much silicone is needed, for this, any bulk material, then it is poured into a measuring container, this will be the amount of silicone needed. After everything is ready, the model is lubricated vegetable oil. Silicone is kneaded, it should be homogeneous, without bubbles. It is poured in a thin stream along the contour of the model. Full curing will occur after 24 hours.

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How to make ceramic tiles with your own hands

The main component for ceramic tiles there will be clay, no solution is needed.

We will need:

1. Clay.
2. Form.
3. old washing machine or vibrating table.
4. Clay kiln.
5. Glaze.

Clay will be the main component here, no solution is needed. Clay is poured into a mold. The consistency of the fill, that is, clay, should not be dry, but damp, for this it must be allowed to lie in a bag. With the help of a vibrating table or a washing machine in the spin mode, clay is rammed in a mold, pressed from above with a spatula. Carefully molded product is pulled out of the mold. Several tiles are made in the same way, be careful when you pull the tile out of the mold, as it is still fragile and can easily break. Finished products are laid out on a frying sheet and placed in an oven, the temperature of the oven should be from 850-1000 degrees Celsius. The next step is glaze firing. The product is covered evenly with glaze and placed in an oven, the temperature should be lower than when firing the tile itself.

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How to make paving slabs with your own hands

We will need:

1. Shovel.
2. Sand.
3. Cement.
4. Pure water without impurities.

It is necessary to make a solution of sand, cement and water in a ratio of one to three in relation to cement. Add water, the consistency of the filling should be thick and homogeneous. The form is being prepared, it must first be lubricated with oil so that it can be easily pulled out in the future. The solution is poured into the mold, this is done with pressure so that voids do not form. The filled container is shaken or a vibrating table is used for this, if you have one, to compact the resulting mass. The next stage is the drying of finished products, the tiles are removed from the mold and left to dry in a sunny place for two to three weeks.

From this mixture, you can also make not a tile, but immediately finished garden path. If you have a form in the form of a lattice, if not, it's not scary, you can make it from improvised means. From old tires, for example, for this you will need old tires in an amount equal to the length of the desired track, lay them in a row and pour the solution on top.

The only reason that makes you think about this method of paving with negative point of view, - the high cost of the material in retail chains. However, there affordable option significant cost reduction. Tiles can be made at home and then its cost will be significantly lower. Therefore, this article will address the question of how to make paving slabs at home.

factory technology

On an industrial scale, the production of vibrocast, vibropressed and clinker tiles for paving sidewalks is carried out. At the same time, depending on the manufacturing technology, the quality of products varies greatly.

The technology is quite simple to use. It is based on the fact that a cement-based mortar is poured into curly molds and compacted on a special surface by vibration.

vibropress.

Such products are rich color shades and sold at a low price. However, the strength and frost resistance of such paving slabs is an order of magnitude lower than that of other types.

vibropressed tiles made on special equipment that compacts the concrete mixture high pressure. Such paving stones are stronger, but also more expensive due to the use of a press and increased power consumption.

The most best tile- clinker. Clinker production of paving slabs occurs by firing specially prepared clay in a kiln at very high temperature. The final product turns out to be very durable, frost-resistant and beautiful, while not yielding in terms of durability even to hard natural stone.

But the high energy consumption for the manufacture of paving slabs and the need to use expensive industrial equipment raises the cost of this material several times.

Equipment and inventory for work

In the conditions of homestead farming, special industrial equipment, of course, is absent, and therefore the technology for manufacturing paving slabs at home is based on the vibrational compaction of concrete. To complete the work, you will need the following equipment and inventory:

• small;
• wide capacity for acceptance of finished concrete;
• sieve for sifting sand;
• or other flat vibrating surface;
• molds for pouring concrete mix;
• rubber mallet;
• shovels, buckets, spatulas.

In addition, a strong stable rack is needed for drying tile blanks in molds.

Necessary materials

From building materials you will need:

• cement brand PC500 or PC400;
• washed or river sand, preferably medium fraction;
• gravel fraction no more than 10 mm;
• natural or mineral pigment;
• mold lubricant.

In the event that the gravel is dirty or contains a lot of dust, then it must be washed, as impurities can adversely affect the quality of products and their color shade.

Work site organization

First of all, it is necessary to correctly install the concrete mixer, vibrating table and rack for placing forms with concrete. These are the largest objects and all actions will take place near them.

The concrete mixer, as the main equipment for the production of paving slabs, should stand in such a way that there is enough space for placing a sand pile and gravel near it.

You should also leave room for buckets of water or a watering hose. The best place for a vibrating table is in a straight line between the concrete mixer and the rack for storing molds with concrete.

The rack can stand indoors or outdoors, but in a place where it will be reliably protected from direct sunlight. Cement can be stored near the rack.

Forms for making

Manufacturers offer molds of various configurations and sizes, made from different materials. You can buy standard square or rectangular, multi-element or monoblock shapes. These can be cups for the manufacture of each product separately and for the simultaneous pouring of several plates.

If desired, molding equipment will be easy. In this case, you can get exclusive products that no one else has. For this use various materials— from wood and polystyrene to metal and plaster.

It is important to remember that tiles made by vibrocasting have a reduced strength and frost resistance. That's why an important factor when choosing forms, their depth determines the thickness of the future product.

When homemade its thickness must be at least 40 mm for footpaths and sidewalks and at least 60 mm for driveways or parking lots passenger car. The movement of freight transport on such a tile is highly undesirable.

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Manufacturing instructions

The production of paving slabs by vibrocasting is carried out in several stages, which include:

1. preparation of concrete mix;
2. preparation of forms before laying concrete;
3. pouring concrete mixture into molds and vibrating table operation;
4. hardening period of concrete;
5. dismantling and storage of finished paving stones.

Each of the stages has its own technological features, some of which may have multiple versions.

concrete mix requirements

Certain requirements are imposed on materials for the manufacture of concrete. Sand must be sieved through a sieve to remove particles of clay, earth and other undesirable impurities that reduce the quality of concrete. The gravel must be clean. Otherwise, it must be rinsed with water. The use of PC300 cement is unacceptable even when it is added in an increased proportion.

In order to increase the strength of the tile, synthetic fibers (fiberglass) can be added to the concrete composition. Expensive industrial plasticizers can be replaced with liquid detergent. The applied pigment dyes must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation and are intended for outdoor use.

The ideal ratio of the components of the mixture for the manufacture of tiles according to the calculations of specialists is:

• cement PC500 - 21% or 30 kg;
• gravel or granite screenings - 23% or 32 kg;
• sifted sand - 56% or 75 kg;
• pigment dye - no more than 7% by weight of concrete or 700 g;
• industrial plasticizer C-3 - 0.7% by weight of the mixture or 50 g;
• water - 5.5% by weight of concrete or 8 liters;
• fiberglass up to 0.05% by weight of concrete or 60 g.

Since it is almost impossible to maintain such exact proportions at home, the solution is usually prepared based on the following calculation:

• 1 part PC500 cement, 1.5 parts gravel, 3 parts sand;
• 1 part PC400 cement, 1 part gravel, 2.5 parts sand.

Liquid is added as a plasticizer. detergent at the rate of 1 glass per batch. Water is added gradually until the mixture becomes homogeneous, and in density it will resemble thick sour cream.

If a dry pigment dye is used in the work, then it must first be dissolved in water, and then added to concrete in an amount of not more than 1.2 liters per batch.

Initially, dry components are poured into the mixing equipment for the production of paving stones, and after they have been mixed, water is gradually added. In this case, it is recommended that you first fill in half the required sand and gravel, and then pour out the cement, mix and add everything else. In this case, the cement will not stick to the walls of the mixer.

Mixing of concrete mixture with added water should not be less than 15 minutes. The finished mixture is poured into a trough or other similar container, and from there it is transported or loaded directly into the molds.

Placement of ready-mixed concrete in molds

The types of forms and their possible choice or DIY were discussed above. Therefore, the process of their filling and compaction on the vibrating table will be described directly here.

In order for the finished tiles to be removed more easily after the mold has hardened, it is necessary to carry out pre-treatment. To do this, they are lubricated from the inside with light machine or vegetable oil. IN last resort a thick soapy solution may be used.

If financial resources allow, then in stores you can purchase a special composition for lubrication. It will provide easier demolding, but will require additional costs.

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For fast filling forms, it is recommended to install a low table near the vibrating table. It will be possible to put forms on it and fill it there. This will reduce the amount of grout spilled onto the working vibrating surface.

The filling process can be done in three ways:

1. Pre-painted throughout the volume, the concrete mixture is poured into molds in one go, the surface is leveled with a spatula and placed on a vibrating table.
2. Initially, a quarter of the volume is filled with a colored solution, and the rest of the volume is filled with ordinary gray concrete.
3. The colored layer occupies approximately 15-20% of the volume, and a reinforcing mesh or pieces of wire are placed between the colored and gray layers to increase the strength of the products and better connect the layers.

The first option will be technologically the simplest, but a concrete mixture with a large amount of dye may have reduced strength.

In the second case, clean concrete will play the role solid foundation, resulting in a stronger tile. In addition, the cost of purchasing the dye is reduced. However, it will be necessary to simultaneously prepare two different solutions - colored and gray, which complicates the production technology.

The third option allows you to get the strongest and beautiful tiles, but it is even more difficult to implement. Ultimately, the choice of technology in this case depends only on you.

Tile coloring methods

To obtain color shades on the surface of paving slabs, four different methods are used:

1. The tiles are made of colored concrete throughout;
2. Products are made two-layer, where the top layer of the tile is made from a colored colored solution, and the rest of the mass is made from an ordinary gray concrete mixture;
3. Before concrete is poured into molds, their inner surface is coated with a water-based coloring agent;
4. Surface.

The most stable color in the manufacture of paving slabs can be obtained by using the first two methods, but they are quite costly from a financial point of view. The fourth option allows you to save money, but the paint from the surface will be easily erased, as a result of which it will have to be tinted periodically.

Placement of completed molds on a vibrating platform

After required amount forms will be filled, they are laid on the surface of the vibrating table. In this case, it is allowed to put the forms one on top of the other, but not more than in 2 rows.

Vibration processing of paving slabs allows you to displace all the air and compact the concrete mixture with high quality. If during the vibration process a strong subsidence of the solution occurs, then you need to add it to the bowls that are not completely filled and level the surface with a spatula.

The strength and frost resistance of products, and, hence, their durability, directly depend on the quality of compaction of the concrete mixture. Therefore, the process of vibration processing must continue for the required time. The exact duration depends on the oscillation frequency and engine power and is determined experimentally (on average it is 40-120 seconds).

The process of curing concrete

After processing on a vibrating table, the completed forms must be transferred to a storage rack. Shelves of the rack must withstand a large weight load, and the rack itself must also stand in the shade, excluding direct sunlight on the surface.

The process of initial setting of concrete during the manufacture of paving slabs takes 12-18 hours, but full hardening will end only after 72-96 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. Only after that you can proceed to the removal of products from the molds and their storage.

Forming and further storage of finished products

The process of removing finished products from the molds after the concrete has set is called demoulding. It must be done carefully, trying not to damage the plates and to preserve the possibility of reusing the molds.

If before pouring concrete internal surfaces molds have been processed, the molding will not be so difficult, especially in the case of soft models.

If complications arise, treatment of the outer side of the molds with hot water can be recommended. Plastic or silicone materials will expand from hot water and free the tile. During demoulding, it is allowed to tap the molds and tiles with a rubber mallet.

The removed tiles are stored on pallets, observing the dressing between the individual products when laying. The height of the stack on the pallet should not exceed 1.2 meters. This condition allows you to protect the tiles of the lower rows from destruction due to the weight load.

Conclusion

As you can see, it is quite possible to make paving slabs with your own hands, since this technological process is not very complicated and does not require special knowledge from the performer.

True, for successful work, you need to have such equipment for the production of paving slabs as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table, but they can be bought, rented or made independently. The most important thing for obtaining a quality result is the exact observance of technology and the use of high-quality raw materials.

Independent production of paving slabs gives the developer the following advantages:

• financial costs for the improvement of a personal plot are reduced;
• it becomes possible to choose any shape and color of the material;
• you can prepare any amount of material for paving;
• independent quality control of the manufactured material.

By laying homemade vibrocast tiles, each owner can fully show their creative abilities and equip the site according to their taste and desire.