How to fill the floor in the bath: a step-by-step process of pouring with a slope, under the drain, with your own hands. How to make a warm and dry floor from tiles on wooden logs in a bath? Iron screed under the floors in the bath

The bathhouse consists of two rooms - a steam room (washing room) and a dressing room. Each of these rooms has its own characteristics, the floor construction technology takes into account these differences. Let's start with more complex work- the floor in the steam room, and then consider the arrangement of the floors in the dressing room.

High temperatures, high humidity and direct contact with water require special care when laying floors. Otherwise, it will be uncomfortable to wash and the floors will have to be changed often. So, we have a finished log house, why start laying floors and what they are.

Photo of the floor in the steam room, already finished and laid
Wooden floor in the steam room

Shower floors - photo

The simplest option, they are laid only with natural (glued will not work!) Softwood boards, the thickness of the boards is at least 25 mm, the distance between the lags is not more than 80 cm, the distance between the beams is 1.0 ÷ 1.3, The thicker the boards, the greater the distance maybe between the lags. For logs, you can take bars 50 × 100 mm, the dimensions of the beams are approximately 100 × 100 mm. There is a desire - impregnate with antiseptics, there is no desire - and without impregnation, the floors will last for many years. The main difference between pouring floors is that water flows over the entire area into slots ≈5 mm wide.

Do-it-yourself pouring floor. Instruction

Step 1.

The point is that the water must go to the ground. If the soil is sandy, there is no problem. If your soil is clay or loamy, there will be problems. Baths are built on columnar or shallow strip foundations, they dig to a depth of about 50 cm, rarely anyone makes a sand cushion (but in vain!). Clay soils swell with an excess of moisture, the bath begins to “play” with all the negative consequences. This means that on clay soils it is imperative to drain the foundations if the foundations are closed (shallow tape). You should not be especially upset, if the builders are responsible, then they must have left ventilation holes in the foundation, they can be used to drain water. There are no such holes - you have to do it yourself.

Step 2 The floors are laid on logs, logs - on beams. And here a lot of things depend on the conscientiousness of the builders. They had to lay the beams during the laying of the timber. Didn't get laid? The problem is, you need to make columns for them.

The columns should be poured only with concrete, the brick is afraid of moisture and crumbles after a few years.

Video - An example of arranging a columnar base for logs

It is advisable to lay the beams on a waterproofing material, it is not necessary to use expensive modern gasket materials, you can use an ordinary roofing felt or several layers of polyethylene film.

The beams are fixed to the posts with corners - a dowel into the concrete, to a tree with a self-tapping screw or a nail. Lay the beams and logs according to the level, constantly check the spatial position, fix the logs to the beams with metal corners. The same height is also checked by a rope stretched between the extreme eiders. If necessary, under the logs, you need to put pieces of boards for alignment. Just do not use wedges, they fall out over time, the emphasis of the gaskets should be over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe beam.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Step 3 Board laying.

The boards lie across the lag, do not forget to leave gaps between them for water to drain. In order for the slots to have the same width, a thin river of suitable thickness can be used as a template. After laying the board, it is removed.

You can nail it with nails (quickly and cheaply), or you can use self-tapping screws. The main thing is that the hats need to be recessed flush. Why are nails better? The fact is that the relative humidity of the floors in the steam room varies significantly, the boards swell and dry out. The nails compensate for these changes in the thickness of the floor, they break out of the lag a little, the length of the nails in our case is approximately 70 mm. In general, there is a rule - the length of the nails should be three times greater than the thickness of the nailed board. Self-tapping screws are held “tightly”, the boards break through a little, which is not very desirable.

Video - Preparing boards for laying

Video - Installing beams, laying floorboards, floor insulation

Step 4 Finishing work - nailing skirting boards, leveling and, if necessary, grinding boards. Skirting boards are nailed in the usual way with small nails about 30 mm long. Specific values ​​depend on the thickness of the skirting boards. Cuts in the corners must be done at an angle of 45 °, there are special devices for cuts. If you have a factory fixture at hand, then it will not be difficult to do it yourself. That's all, the drain floor is ready for "use".

Do not be afraid that the drain floors are cold and you will catch a runny nose in the steam room. The temperature in the steam room is about + 80 ° C, the floor also heats up from such heat, and large drafts from small cracks will not appear.

Leak-proof floors

They are a little more difficult to make, but the comfort of staying in the steam room increases. They differ from leaking ones in that there are no gaps between the boards, but there is a slight slope for draining water.

You need to make a slope to one of the walls of the steam room, it should be borne in mind that the mesh will have to be cleaned periodically. This means that access to the drain must be free. At the drain point, it is desirable to make a water receiver and immediately withdraw it beyond the perimeter of the foundation, it is not difficult to do this, the water drains in one place (unlike leaking floors).

Concerning preparatory work by device ventilation holes in the foundation and stacks, these works are the same as we described above, but in the future there are differences.

Step 1. Column preparation. The markings for the distance between the columns, the depth, the preparation of the pillow and the preparation of the concrete mixture are the same. Further differences. The fact is that the columns should be at different heights. The floor near one side is slightly higher than near the other. The slope should not be made large, two to three millimeters per linear meter of the floor is enough. For example, if you have a steam room 4 meters long, then the difference in height of the extreme columns should be within 8 ÷ 12 millimeters. It will not be possible to immediately pour concrete with such accuracy, it will be necessary to adjust the mortar after removing the formwork. For primary marking, you will need a simple hydraulic level, make marks on the formwork of the extreme columns. Further, everything is already familiar - pull the thread between them and level the surfaces.

Step 2 And there is a lot in common here, only the beams and logs will be at an angle, you also need to check their position with the help of a stretched thread. After installing the last lag, do not be too lazy to check the correctness of their position again.

Step 3 Board flooring. Immediately you need to prepare a drain grate and come up with a drain method. Use hoses or pipes of the appropriate diameters. Before laying, check the boards for parallelism of the edges, if the curvature exceeds 5 mm, level them on the thickness gauge. For laying boards, you need to have special devices for their tight attraction. There are two options. The first is to buy ready-made in the store, it is inexpensive and works quite efficiently. The second option is to prepare ordinary metal staples and wooden wedges of various sizes.

Nail the first board against the wall, fasten the stops on two lags. We have already said that these can be staples or factory fixtures. The distance between the stops and the first board should be several centimeters greater than the width of the second board. You can fix the stops further, and adjust the distance with dummy boards - it's faster, but more difficult. Install the second board and use the wedges to pull it firmly against the first, the slight bend will even out. Secure the second board with any hardware. Everything, you have mastered the "main operation", continue to mount the entire floor in the same way.

Do not forget to put a drain grate in the place where the water drains. It can be homemade from galvanized sheet iron or purchased, big difference No, they both do their job very well.

Prices for floor boards

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Floors in the dressing room

There are three options - ordinary plank, insulated and heated. The first ones are no different from those that are not pouring in the steam room, only they do not have a slope and, accordingly, holes for draining water. Let's look at the other two options.

Insulated floors

The easiest option is to use foam plastic as a heater, although mineral wool can also be used in the dressing room. The columns, the dimensions of the beams, the log and the boards are identical. The technology for installing insulation has slight differences. Let's start with this operation.

Step 1. Draft floor. The heater lays down to honey as a rough and finishing floor. The draft floor is attached to the joists from below, made from scraps of boards, slabs, used plywood sheets or OSB boards. This " economical option”, there is extra money - use new materials.

Step 2. Laid on the subfloor insulating materials, make sure that there are no gaps between the individual sheets of insulation. If mineral wool is used, then it will be necessary to make steam and hydro barriers, cotton wool is very afraid of moisture, when wet, the thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply. But that's not all. After getting wet, it does not dry well, wooden structures are in long-term contact with wet cotton. What happens to them in such conditions - there is no need to tell.

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Video - Draft floor

Step 3 Clean floor. We have already told you how to lay it, now you already have construction experience, the work will go faster.

Laying the floorboard over the insulation - foam

Floors with electric heating m

Enough complex structure, requires careful attention and some knowledge not only in construction, but also in electrical engineering. Before you get started, there are a few things you need to know.

1. It is not advisable to use boards, laminate and other wooden coverings for heated floors. Firstly, they have very low thermal conductivity, most of the thermal energy will heat the ground, and not the floor and the room. Secondly, the risks of cracks or cracking of the material increase significantly, even the use of boards with relative humidity 8% does not always save. The fact is that while you use and lay the purchased dry boards, they will absorb moisture. You can, of course, use artificial plastic boards, but is the game worth the candle?
2. It is necessary to accurately determine the source of heat. With water heating, you need to conduct network engineering from home or install a separate boiler in the bath. Both options are questionable from an economic point of view. There is an electric heating option. But even here there are problems - for efficiency, the power of the heating elements should be approximately 140 W per square meter premises. These are quite large values, you need to make sure that power lines comply with these indicators.
3. Heating electric shock requires installation of the complex electrical wiring. All work should be carried out with unquestioning observance of the EMP. Do you have such knowledge?

If everything is fine, then you can proceed to direct work. In our case, heated floors will be for ceramic coating is the most efficient option.

Video - Screed

In conclusion, I would like to say a few words about the floors in the dressing room. Before proceeding to warm floors and underfloor heating, weigh everything well. These floors require skill, time and money, and the return on them is minimal. Any work should have logic, only in this case the efforts are justified. Think about how long it takes to stand barefoot in a warm field for the insulation to trap the heat from the wood floors, bring it back and “warm up” the feet? How long does it take to heat the floors (and how much does it cost) just to get undressed / dressed in a few minutes? Isn't it better and cheaper to use ordinary (or warm) slippers in the dressing room? And we described the technology for arranging warm and heated floors in the dressing room only because there is a demand for such types.

The floor in the bath differs from residential premises in that, in addition to strength, it requires the construction of a sewer outlet. If you build it correctly, it will not rot, will not absorb moisture, but will ensure its constant removal and dryness in the room at a time when steaming is not carried out.

Before the construction of the floor in the bath, the owner must decide on the requirements that he imposes on him. Usually the choice has to be made between a concrete structure and wooden boards:

• the foundation of concrete is laid long and expensive. It is guaranteed to last more than 50 years, and with proper updating and proper operation, there is no need to replace it;
• a wooden floor is easy and cheap to build. It looks great, but it needs to be changed regularly, about once every 5-10 years.

If wood is chosen as the material for the floor, you should decide on the type of construction. There is flowing and non-flowing. The first one is easier and looks more interesting. The boards laid in the bath do not need to be nailed to the logs. They are installed at a distance of at least 3 mm from each other. When you need them to dry quickly, you can simply collect them and take them outside to dry. It is not necessary to build boards with a gap in the dressing room. In the rest of the rooms, a gap of about 2 mm is left from the walls around the perimeter, a conditional frame around the floor is obtained, indicated by a small indent.

Advantages and disadvantages of a leaky floor

Pros.

1. The structure is built very quickly.
2. The non-leaking floor is the leader among other types in terms of cheapness.
3. For sewerage in the underground is done drainage pit. No other systems need to be installed.
4. Waterproofing and thermal insulation are not laid.

Minuses.

1. It is intended for temporary use, it is impossible to bathe in the bath in winter (in cold climates).
2. To be able to operate a bath with a leaky floor all the time, it is necessary to build it in a warm climate.
3. If you choose poorly hewn boards or place them unevenly, the floor will not be reliable.
4. fragility.

Bath floor design

In the steam room, the floor should rise slightly compared to the zero level. You can make it higher by only 8-10 cm, and the desired effect will already be achieved - the preservation of high temperature in the room is ensured. In the washing department, the floor is made below the finishing level. This improvement will help to avoid excess water from entering the rest of the bath compartments.

The most common floor construction in the bath (layers from top to bottom).

1. Finish coating.
2. Wood or concrete (final row).
3. Small airspace.
4. Lining (small layer).
5. Insulating layers (hydro and thermal insulation is mandatory, sometimes noise insulation is added separately if there are factories, clubs, and other institutions that are a source of noise near the bathhouse).
6. Crate.
7. Insulating layers (during cold winters to protect the floor structure from cold or moisture).
8. Draft floor.
9. Wooden beams under the crate.
10. Waterproofing (installed on the ground).

Larch is considered the best material for the construction of an aesthetic and durable floor. If it is not possible to purchase it, it is allowed to use other common wood species: pine (one of the cheapest), birch (unusual color), fir or alder. Sometimes wood species are combined. The finish coating is made from more expensive boards, and the cheapest species, such as pine, are installed below.

Preparation of the finish coat (carried out in advance)

Before laying the boards must be dried. If this stage is canceled, there is a high probability of floor deformation if the natural moisture from the trees comes out quickly. They can decrease in volume, bend.

Massive boards are more susceptible to deformations. They need to dry longer, and the risk of deformation is greater. The situation is saved by the possibility of laying thin bars. They withstand less load, but this disadvantage is compensated by laying transverse logs (an additional layer). The tendency to deformation in a board with a thickness of 2.5 cm is almost negligible, so it is advisable to choose approximately the same (or a little more) boards for a log. Optimum thickness up to 4 cm.

The composition and design features of the wooden floor

In order to correctly and quickly make the elevation necessary in the steam room, use additional bars for lining. The optimal cross section is approximately 7 × 10 cm. With their help, the composition of the base is strengthened, because the bars carry a significant part of the load.

The procedure for laying a classic wooden floor.

1. The base is pre-coated with several layers of roofing material.

   Massive bars are laid out along the perimeter of the foundation. They pass through a certain distance, occupying the entire future floor. Each beam located in the center is supported by two opposite walls. It is additionally supported by specially installed two massive pillars.

2. Logs are installed on the bars. They are systematically trimmed, an artificial slope is created towards sewer outlet. It is desirable that the total slope difference be at least 2 cm. Before installing the log, cranial bars are nailed, together they form a subfloor.
3. The moisture-proof membrane is attached to the logs, while the free ends remain 20-30 cm in order to further attach them to the waterproofing layer of the walls.
4. A layer of insulation pre-cut to size is laid in the clearance of the subfloor boards. It is desirable to combine protection from cold and moisture in one coating. Now there is a large selection of such materials. It is preferable to use mineral wool.
5. The finished floor is laid from tongue-and-groove boards, should be done as carefully as possible.

Video - Construction of a bath. Arrangement of a wooden floor

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden floor in the bath

Required clearances

The ventilation gap between the vapor barrier membrane and the floor is at least 2-3 cm. This layer has additional outlets that must be connected to the wall vapor barrier. This is necessary to connect the free air under the membrane and above it, ensuring free air circulation. The warm air flow, when circulating under the floor, will displace the cooled and damp, which will ensure the dryness of the floors for the entire duration of the bath.

The backing bars are made in such a size that the gap from them to the lag is more than 1 cm. If the log house shrinks a little, then this distance compensates for the pressure on the floor and protects the structure from deformation.

Video - Paul in the bath. Arrangement

Fastening elements

The quality and reliability of the floor depend not only on the selected materials, but primarily on compliance with the standards for their fastening. Possible ways connection of parts.

Concrete floor

To fill the floor with concrete, you need to carry out a number of successive measures.

1. Formwork is installed on the prepared (filled with primary waterproofing, for example, sand) base. Wooden boards are fastened together with anchor bolts, if necessary, insured with reinforcing pillars with a cross section of 2-4 cm.
2. Concrete mortar is prepared in the ratio of cement, sand and gravel. The components are connected in a ratio of 1:3:5. Sometimes a solution is prepared without gravel, but the classic recipe is considered more durable. It is necessary to add as much water as necessary for the correct consistency, homogeneous, but liquid mixture. Concrete is poured in a uniform layer, the optimal thickness is 5 cm and above. This is the primary coating on which a rigid frame is installed.
3. Reinforcement is evenly distributed inside the formwork. The rods are interconnected with a wire with a thickness of 2-5 mm or welded at the joints. First, vertical pegs with the greatest thickness are driven into the ground, and then connected by one or two rows of vertical long reinforcing bars. The frame can be located at a distance from the formwork along the perimeter, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
4. Rest concrete mortar poured onto the armature to the top. To make it more homogeneous, it is necessary to compact it. You can separately purchase a vibrator and work it through all parts of the floor. If this is not possible, holes are made in the wet layer of concrete with an iron or wooden bar, through which the air formed during the pouring of the mixture escapes.
5. So that the space under the floor is not filled with moisture, from internal backfill to wooden base thanks to big bars a gap of about 15 cm is created.
6. To make movement on the floor inaudible, you need to put fiberglass pads under it. They are located on the waterproofing layer. Sold in rolls, produced in the form of a thick tape.
7. Wooden materials are treated with an antiseptic. It is advisable to use such chemical composition, with which you can get rid of all microorganisms and prevent damage to the tree.
8. All boards are pre-dried or purchased already dried in a trusted company.
9. When installing ventilation, it is necessary to organize its competent removal. From the underground, it is led along the wall to the attic; for this, a separate pipe is being built. If the foundation is monolithic, then holes can be made connecting the ventilation gaps with the air outside.

Recommendations for the construction of the floor in the bath should be applied to your own building, sometimes adjusting the instructions. It is advisable to leave the basic norms according to which the floor should be constructed unchanged, since they are due natural properties materials and the specific state of the air in the bath.

Video - Errors in the construction of floors in the bath

When building a bath, everyone is faced with a large number of issues, among which the choice of material for the floor is far from the last. The first thing that comes to mind for many is a tree. But there is another option - a concrete floor screed. Such a floor will cost more, but it has a number of undeniable advantages.

Concrete floor screed: advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of concrete screed:

• strength. According to this indicator, it is significantly superior to other materials used to install the floor in the bath;
• durability. Concrete screed will serve you for many years;
• moisture resistance. At first, under the influence of water, concrete becomes only stronger, then it has an insignificant effect on it. In this case, the tree is destroyed under the influence of moisture;
• hygiene. Concrete is a material that is not subject to the appearance of mold, fungus, insects do not start in it;
• does not require drying. Wooden floors must be dried after bath procedures; a concrete screed does not need this.

Cons of concrete screed:

• great weight. Concrete is a heavy material, so a strong foundation is needed under it;
• long term solidification. It takes about 1-1.5 months for the moisture to dry completely;
• shrinkage. Its duration depends on the amount of water in the solution;
• price. Concrete flooring will cost more than installation wood flooring, but if you take into account the expiration date, then the overpayment is justified.

Currently, concrete floors are considered the most the best option. They are significantly superior to other types in terms of strength, and also have a huge service life and withstand high loads.

How to prepare a concrete solution?

A simple option is to buy ready-made dry mix. If you decide to cook it yourself, then you will need cement, water and sand. For mortar, cement M-400 or higher must be used. For 4 servings of sand, you need 1 serving of cement and water. The solution should not be liquid, because in this case, in the future, the concrete will not be strong enough.

Instead of ordinary sand, you can use perlite. It has high thermal insulating properties. The disadvantage of the material is its low weight, due to which the sand is very dusty, so it is impossible to work in windy conditions.

To prepare the solution you need to do the following:

1. Pour 2 buckets of perlite or sand and 10 liters of water.
2. Add 5 liters of cement.
3. Stir, add another 5 liters of water. Stir until the mixture is homogeneous.
4. Add 1 bucket of perlite and 2 liters of water. Mix.
5. Leave the mixture for 10 minutes to make it more plastic.

When the solution is ready, you can proceed to the main work.

Do-it-yourself concrete floor screed: stages

The floor screed in the bath is done mainly in the steam room and washing room, i.e. in those rooms where there are quite extreme conditions (high temperature, humidity), so in these rooms you need to think about and drainage system.

The complexity of the concrete screed is that it must be at a slight slope. This is necessary in order to make a drain in the bath. When sloped, water will drain directly into the sewer, and the floors will dry faster.

Step 1. Preparatory work

First you need to evaluate the coverage under the bath. If it is sandy or covered with loose earth, then you can dig a drainage system right under the future room. The pit needs to be made about 0.5-1 m deep, with approximately the same length and width. In this case, it is important to carefully consider the ventilation system in order to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors. To do this, you need to leave air in the basement with the possibility of a through air flow.

If the earth is clayey or dense, then it is necessary to make a small pit, and from it to conduct a water pipe, which will pass under the foundation and discharge water into the gutter located outside the foundation. At the end of the pipeline, a shutter will need to be made to protect the bath from unpleasant odors. The depth, width and length of the pit can be about 0.3-0.5 m, and a pipe for draining water will enter one of its walls. Air vents should also be left around the pit for ventilation.

The above options are relevant if the floor is raised above the ground. If you plan to pour a concrete screed onto the ground, then you need to consider a drain system before starting work, because in the process it will be necessary to install a pipe into the screed.

After the drainage pit is ready, you can proceed to the installation of the base of the future floor.

Step 2. Installation of a concrete floor in a bath

There is no single answer to the question of how to make a concrete screed. The process of work is affected not only by the soil, but also by the type of foundation used.

The device of a concrete floor in a bath on a strip foundation

1. 1. On the territory of the future bath, between the strip foundation, you need to remove the top layer of the earth, making a hole about 0.4-0.5 m deep.
   2. Fill the ground with gravel with a layer of 15 cm, compact it. You can already at this stage make a slight slope for draining.

   

   1. Lay a layer of sand 30-50 cm, compact.
   2. Lay a layer of roofing felt to waterproof the floor. Separate sheets should overlap by about 10 cm. Two layers of roofing material can be laid.

   

   1. Make a layer of thermal insulation. For this you can use different materials: slag, expanded clay, felt, mineral wool, etc. Regardless of which option you choose, make sure that the material goes beyond the floor to the walls - this will help to avoid drafts and cold air penetration. If you settled on mineral wool, then you will need to make a layer of waterproofing: cover it with plastic wrap.

   

   1. Lay reinforcing mesh for structural strength.

   

   1. Install a system of beacons and guides to ensure even coverage. Do not forget about a slight slope for draining.
   2. Prepare concrete solution, pour the floor. The minimum thickness of the screed is 30 cm. It is best to pour the screed from the corner farthest from the entrance, moving excess material towards the entrance. It is important to consider that the process of pouring the floor must be continuous, that is, as soon as you have laid one layer, the second must be started immediately. The concrete mixture will dry for about 5-7 days. If possible, it is better to wait about two weeks. During the drying process, the screed must be moistened - this will help to avoid the formation of cracks.

The above lists the work in the event that you will make a concrete screed in one layer. If you plan two layers, then the order of work changes. In particular, the first layer of screed should be done after step 3, before the hydro- and thermal insulation of the floor. Only after the concrete has completely dried can you proceed to the next step.

Continue the steps for hydro and thermal insulation, then reinforce the floor and fill it with a second layer of concrete screed.

The device of a concrete floor in a bath on a columnar, pile foundation

During construction, the procedure is different:

1. Install logs in increments of 0.5-0.55 m (the size depends on the insulation, it is important that the mats fit snugly into the space between them). For logs, it is recommended to use a beam with a section of 100x200 mm.

If you are building a large bath, then long logs can be further strengthened: set the logs to supporting pillars from brick.

1. Under the lags, you need to attach the bars 150x50 mm so that you get a design similar to shelves.

1. On the resulting protrusions of the bars, you need to mount the subfloor. For him, boards about 3 cm wide are suitable, they need to be treated with a special antiseptic.
2. Prepare pipes for water drainage.

1. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
2. Place a heater between the lags, cover it with a waterproofing film.
3. Lay reinforcing mesh.
4. Prepare the beacons and pour the floor with a concrete screed with a slope towards the pipes.

When installing a concrete screed in a bath, keep in mind that you need to calculate the level of the floor in advance: it is important that all of the above layers should not be higher than the crown crown, otherwise there may be a problem that the walls will be damp.

Installation of beacons for floor screed

If you want to get a perfectly even coating, then you need to use floor screed beacons. As beacons, profile guides, metal pipes, wooden blocks, “slides” of mortar and self-tapping screws can be used.

First you need to determine the thickness of the screed. To do this, you need to find the highest point of the base, then add the minimum allowable thickness of the screed to it, and then determine the line where the future floor will pass. It is best to work with a laser level, you can also use a bubble level.

The installation of beacons under the screed should start from the long sides of the room, the first beacons must be installed at a distance of 20-30 cm parallel to each other. Next, you need to set intermediate beacons at a distance of 10-20 cm, also parallel to each other.

There are two options for how to set beacons for floor screed:

• for cement mortar;
• for self-tapping screws.

In the first case, before installing floor beacons, it is necessary to prepare a thick cement-sand mortar: mix cement and clean sand in a ratio of 1: 3, dilute the mixture with water to get a stable and plastic consistency.

Next, you need to put the solution in slides, on which the beacons themselves will rely. To adjust their position, the beacons for pouring the floor can be pressed into the mixture, to install them as evenly as possible, use the building level.

In the second case, pin beacons must be screwed into the floor, setting them in level. Next, you need to put a drywall profile on the screws.

Lighthouses for floor screed (photo):

After the work is completed, the floor is poured over the lighthouses.

Step 3. Finishing the concrete floor in the bath

Finishing is optional. There are simple and a budget option: put wooden flooring on the floor. The advantage of this option is not only cheapness, but also convenience. After visiting the bath, it is enough to remove the flooring and dry it, and then return it to its place. If suddenly the tree began to deteriorate, then you can simply change the pallet for a new one.

A popular material is lining. It has many advantages: attractive appearance, treated surface that protects against splinters, affordable cost, long service life, it is easy to install it yourself.

For the floor in the steam room, you can use lining of hardwood trees: alder, larch, aspen, linden, etc. Coniferous trees should be discarded, because under the influence of high temperatures they can release resin, and if you stand on it with bare feet , you may get burned.

The requirements for finishing materials in the washing room are not as strict as in the steam room. There are no extreme high temperatures, but the humidity level is much higher. In addition, if you do not put a closed shower in the sink, then all the water will pour directly onto the floor.

Lining is also suitable for finishing the floor in the washing room, and tiles are also a popular option. It has a natural composition, is not at all afraid of moisture and will be an excellent decoration of the room. But avoid using smooth and glossy tiles, as they are slippery. Pay attention to matte and rough surfaces. If the tile still slips, then lay a rubber mat on the floor or place wooden pallets.

The concrete floor on the ground in the bath is considered the most convenient option for the organization of a drain in a washing and steam room. Depending on the soil conditions, flooring and the presence of a warm floor, the layout of the design pie may differ.

Of all the existing foundations, it is possible to fill the floor on the ground only inside the MZLF tape, in last resort- inside a low grillage. At the same time, it should be noted that the level of flooring in wet rooms (steam room and washing room) should be at least 2 cm lower than in other rooms (SP29.13330).

The bathhouse does not have constant heating, load-bearing and enclosing structures, the soil under them completely freezes in winter. In clay soils, accordingly, frost swelling occurs.

Intermittent heating

For the floor on the ground of buildings in which heaters are switched on periodically, the following set of measures is used to reduce / eliminate heaving forces:

Unlike foundations, floor drainage on the ground is not used, since this drainage system must be located outside the foundation of the bath.

Important! The walls of the bath are insulated, not from the outside, but from the inside, so as not to spend an extra amount of firewood to warm them up and reduce the time to go into steam mode.

The need for a drain

The bath is the only room among the outbuildings, inside the rooms of which water flows on the floor in large quantities. It is possible to collect and divert drains from the floor in a bath on the ground only through a ladder, by analogy with a shower stall.

For a small washing room, one ladder is usually used, towards which gravity slopes of 2 - 4 degrees are created. outer surface concrete floor screed on the ground. The main points in this case are:

The slots are necessary for the drainage of liquid, which is collected under the boards in the ladder. To service the resulting underground, the boards are removable:

• fit into the grooves of the lag;
• rolled into small shields.

If it is necessary to clean the underground or sewerage, the floor covering is disassembled, then placed in place.

The design of the floor cake on the ground in the bath

Unlike joist floors with a ventilated subfloor, a floor on the ground has a much longer service life, but is absolutely unrepairable. Therefore, all communications (water supply and sewerage) are brought inside the building before concreting it.

Base

Unlike foundations, the floor on the ground does not perceive structural loads from the building. However, heaving forces from clay soils act on it and operational loads are transferred from the weight of users, benches, light metal furnaces, which can be mounted without its own foundation.

Dangerous for reinforced concrete structures only uneven heaving forces:

• clay has a scaly structure, with abundant wetting and freezing, it increases in volume unevenly, the screed can tear, lift in a separate area without the possibility of recovery;
• crushed stone and sand are non-metallic materials, even if they are saturated with water to the maximum, when frozen, they will increase in volume evenly;

In other words, the floor on the ground will rise evenly, in the spring the ice thaws, the structure lowers to a similar position without damage. The fertile layer is dangerous due to shrinkage due to the abundance of organic matter inside the chernozem.

Therefore, the base for the floor on the ground is made in the following way:

In this case, there is a nuance:

• concrete floor screed on the ground must be protected from soil moisture;
• the waterproofing layer is made of rolled bituminous or polymeric materials;
• roofing material, Bikrost, glass hydroisol and other materials can be rolled out on crushed stone, but it is very difficult to seal the joints of the overlapping strips, in addition, when walking on the waterproofing surface to lay the wire reinforcing mesh and pouring concrete, these materials can be torn by the soles of the shoes on the uneven edges of the crushed stone.

Therefore, a thin leveling layer of sand is either poured over the rubble, or a footing is poured. This screed is made of low-strength concrete B7.5, is not reinforced, has a thickness of 3-5 cm, and is used as a large-format table for rolling out and sealing the joints of waterproofing material.

Underlayment for laying waterproofing.

Important! To decouple this rigid underlying layer along the perimeter of the foundation, strips of extruded polystyrene foam are installed vertically or the surface of the supporting structures is pasted over with a damper tape.

Insulating layers

Traditionally, for reinforced concrete structures, insulating layers are:

Advice! Waterproofing does not have to be glued to the footing, it is enough to ensure the tightness of the joints of individual strips of rolled material.

However, in most cases, the footing is coated bituminous mastic and fuse glass hydroisol on it to increase the operational life of this layer, since it is not possible to repair it later.

When choosing a heater for the floor on the ground, you should consider:

• mineral wool can shrink, since the density of these materials is lower than that of other heat insulators;
• basalt and glass fiber loses when wet thermal insulation properties, and moisture from these materials cannot independently evaporate in a concrete structure;
• Ecowool is not used in screeds.

Therefore, extruded high-density polystyrene foam, foam glass and expanded clay remain. Extruded high-density polystyrene foams, which are most often used in floors on the ground, have the optimal quality / price ratio. Depending on the presence of a warm floor, the thickness of the insulation is 5 - 15 cm. The seams are filled with mounting foam.

Concrete screed

The standards of the joint venture do not indicate that screeds and floors on the ground, which they actually are, need to be reinforced. However, to increase the service life, wire meshes (4 mm wire, 5 x 5 cm mesh) are laid in the lower level, observing a protective layer of 2–3 cm. To do this, the mesh is placed on waterproofing over concrete or polymer pads. It is forbidden to use cuttings of reinforcement and crushed stone.

The thickness of the screed is selected depending on the design of the floor on the ground and operating conditions:

Important! For the screed, ready-mixed concrete from B12.5 is used, pouring is carried out according to pre-installed beacons, especially if it is necessary to make slopes.

Flooring

The easiest way is to veneer a concrete screed (slab) with tiles or porcelain stoneware. However, it is not comfortable to walk barefoot on such a coating. It is not economically feasible to install a boiler for a water-heated floor inside a bath; when choosing an electric floor heating, operating costs increase sharply.

Tile flooring.

Therefore, removable flooring is laid on the tile or a slotted wooden floor is made:

• floorboards are laid with a gap of 1 - 2 cm on logs for gravity water removal;
• a ladder with a dry hydraulic seal is integrated into the screed, to which slopes are made from all sides.

Thus, the floor cake on the ground inside the bath can be modified depending on the specific operating conditions and the presence of a warm floor in the design.

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Laying floors is the most critical stage in the construction of any building. Properly laid floors reduce the load on the foundation, distributing it evenly, thereby extending the life of the building. In addition, properly laid floors are the convenience and safety of people who live in the building or constantly use it.

It is especially important to observe the laying technology during the construction of a bath, since a bath is a special object, in the premises of which there is high humidity and high temperature, both hot and cold water is used abundantly.

Below we will talk about what kind of floors there are in the bath, and we will try to describe their laying in the form of a step-by-step guide.

In the bath, the floors can be made of concrete, wood or brick. The latter type of floors is used very rarely.

The fact is that, having a high heat capacity, the brick at the same time has a low heat transfer. In other words, it warms up so that you can get severe burns. Therefore, brick is used in the construction of the base for concrete or wooden floors.

a) concrete floor

This floor is designed for long-term use. Its service life is at least 50 years.

Concrete floor - cold floor. It requires a lot of money, labor and time.

b) wooden floors

The best and cleanest material for floors in the bath is wood.

There are two types of wooden floors that fit in the bath:

• flowing;
• non-leaking.

The design of each of them will be discussed below.

Concrete floor. Laying

A concrete floor is, in fact, a concrete screed. Either a floor covering is laid on it, or its surface is used as a floor.

It should be borne in mind that the concrete solution includes cement, sand, filler. Gravel, crushed stone, marble chips, etc. are used as a filler. Such a solution cannot be prepared manually. Even using a perforator, it is impossible to obtain the desired quality of the solution. Therefore, it is better to purchase a solution at a concrete plant or replace sand-cement mortar. Such a solution is easy to prepare using a perforator with a special nozzle. Ready-made dry sand-cement mixtures can be freely purchased at any specialized store.

Prepare a solution, taking into account what the flooring will be. If the surface remains concrete or a plank floor is laid on top, then a regular mortar can be prepared. If it is planned to lay tiles, then gypsum with anhydrate should be added to the solution or a specialized self-leveling mixture should be bought.

When installing concrete floors, you will also need materials such as:

• ruberoid;
• broken brick;
• gravel;
• reinforcing materials, for example, metal mesh;
• perlite. It is designed for floor insulation. Add it to the solution while mixing;
• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool.

The concrete floor can be laid either on the ground or on logs.

All flooring work is divided into three stages. Preparatory stage, basic work, laying flooring.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Preparatory stage

First, we install a wastewater drainage system. Naturally, it must first be designed and marked on the spot. The system includes two pipes and an intermediate tank. Usually the reservoir is a hole dug in the ground. Its dimensions should not be less than 40 x 40 x 30 centimeters. The bottom, the walls of the tank are concreted. The recommended thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm. A vent pipe extends from the tank. The recommended diameter is 20 cm. It is discharged either into a gutter or into a special septic tank. The second pipe is brought into the tank from the bath. First, the level and location of the drain hole are determined, and only then a pipe is led from this place into the tank. In order to unpleasant odors did not penetrate the room, it is equipped with a special valve.

Having completed the installation of the drainage system, we begin to prepare for pouring the floor.

First, prepare the base of the floor.

Main works. Filling the floor

It is better to fill the floor with assistants. The solution thickens quickly, so efficiency is needed. That is, someone prepares the solution, someone fills it, and someone levels it. When pouring, the solution should be compacted. This is done so that the screed is homogeneous, cavities, voids and other defects do not form in it. To perform this operation, a vibrator is used.

Before pouring, the floor is waterproofed, beacons are installed on the site. Step - no more than 1 m. With the help of beacons it is easier to get flat surface. They are installed either on the surface of the insulation, or mounted on pre-marked places on the walls of the foundation.

Filling starts from a far point and leads to the exit, leveling the solution. You need to level it with a trowel, and tighten it with a rule. At the same time, the movements are made circular, they need to be directed towards the exit.

Video - Concrete floor on the ground

Video - Filling the screed over the insulation

The concrete will set in two days, and further work can be carried out. But the load on the floor can be given only after it has completely hardened. The term for the complete curing of the screed is three weeks and it depends on temperature conditions. The higher the temperature in the room, the faster the concrete sets.

It's easy to check if it's ready. The set concrete withstands hammer blows. It doesn't even leave marks. The color of its surface should be uniformly gray.

Floor covering

The floor covering can be the surface of the screed itself, a board or a tile.

We must not forget that the floor in the bath should be sloping. The slope should be about 2 cm. It is made towards the drain hole.

a) concrete surface

Actually, this is the screed itself. Only its surface must be carefully leveled and, preferably, polished. It must be borne in mind that the concrete floor is cold. Therefore, instead of a bare screed surface, it is better to use a tile or board coating.

b) tiles

When laying, the tiles are glued to the surface with a special adhesive. As a floor, you should not use tiles in the bath. When moistened, it becomes slippery, so it is better to lay a metlakh. It is ideal for wet areas.

c) plank floor

The installation of such a coating is as follows:

• we lay waterproofing on the surface of the screed, for example, roofing material;
• we lay a heater on the waterproofing, for example, mineral wool, polystyrene;
• on top of the insulation we again lay waterproofing;
• we put logs, i.e. bars, the size of which is 5 by 5 cm, no more. For a plank floor, natural ventilation is needed, so you will additionally have to make holes in the foundation;
• we lay the board. For flooring, you need to use an edged planed board, best grooved.

If we lay the concrete floor on the logs, then the actions will be as follows:

• install a wastewater drainage system. How to do it, we told above;
• we level the site, add gravel, tamp it down. You can additionally make a concrete screed, as described above. The resulting pillow should have a slight slope towards the drain;
• put lags. As a log, a bar of a certain section is used. You can lay it on the ground, but it is better to fix it on the walls of the foundation. In this case, it is necessary to apply logs with a section of 10x20 cm. The distance between them (step) is 50 cm. We must not forget about the pre-treatment of the beam with agents from decay and exposure to microorganisms;

  
  
  

• on the logs we lay an intermediate, rough, floor. For its device we use edged board not less than 30 mm thick. We close up all cracks, joints, gaps in the floor;

  

• we lay waterproofing on the intermediate floor. If there are joints, gaps, then we seal them;
• we lay insulation on the waterproofing;

  

• laying another layer of waterproofing;
• then lay the reinforcing mesh.

  
  

The preparatory work is completed, we fill the floor. After the screed has set, lay the coating. Its choice depends on the taste and desire of the owner.

One general note, it applies to all types of floors that are used in the bath. Synthetic materials, such as linoleum, cannot be used as flooring. At high humidity and high temperature, they become a source of toxic substances. The person is simply poisoned.

Wood floors leaking

The simplest floors. The design of leaking floors does not provide for insulation, so they are used either in the south, or in the warm season, in the country. As such, there is no water drainage system in the design of such a floor. Waste water is most often drained directly to the ground. But, if the soils are clayey, then you will have to install water drainage. To do this, we make a tank, as described in the section on the construction of concrete floors. There is no need to bring a pipe into the bath. The design of the floors does not require a special drain hole.

If the logs are laid on the ground, then we perform the following steps:

• we treat the logs with an antiseptic;
• leveling the site;
• we fall asleep gravel;
• ramming the site. On clay soils, it is imperative to make a slope towards the reservoir;
• install support columns for the log;

  

  

• lay the lags. Step - 50 cm;

  

• laying the floor. We leave a gap between the boards, the floor and the wall. Gap - up to 3 mm. Through these gaps, water will flow. We do not fasten boards to the lags. Leaking floors are removed from the log and taken out to dry after using the bath. The pillow under the logs and the logs themselves must be laid so that the lower edge of the floor is higher than the upper edge of the foundation (plinth).

  
  
  
  
  

The service life of such floors is short. They will last no more than five years.

Wood preservative prices

wood preservative V33

Video - Laying posts for lag

There is another option for leaking floors:

• after preparing the site, beams are installed around the perimeter of the foundation. They are made from timber treated with an antiseptic. Its size can be 100 x 100, 100 x 150, 150 x 150 mm;
• logs are attached to these beams;
• flooring is laid on the logs.

Floors can be made from both softwood and hardwood. most the best wood larch is considered for the manufacture of floors. But, unfortunately, in our time to find larch is very, very difficult. Therefore, when constructing floors, pine is used. Of hardwoods, linden is most often used. Oak should not be used. It becomes slippery after getting wet.

A small digression. In Rus', baths have always been built from aspen. It was believed that she drives away evil spirit and restore health.

Board for flooring is used edged, planed. Its thickness must be at least 30 mm. The most common flooring board is a 50 mm thick board.

Sauna with non-leaking floors can be used all year round in any region of the country. The design provides for the installation of an intermediate subfloor and the installation of insulation.

The work that needs to be carried out when laying a non-leaking floor is as follows:

• install a wastewater drainage system. To do this, dig a hole (reservoir). Dimensions are listed above. We concrete it;
• we make the drainage of water into the sewer. We use a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm for the removal. We install the second pipe. It will be connected to the floor drain. We install a siphon at the outlet of the pipe so that it has free access. It will be needed to clean the siphon from accumulated dirt and debris;
• preparing the site. We remove the surface of the soil, we fall asleep sand. We carefully tamp the site. We fill the site with gravel and again carefully tamp. You can additionally pour a concrete screed. The thickness of the screed should be no more than 5 cm;
• we lay waterproofing on the resulting floor base. Most often, roofing material is used as insulation;
• install a heater. As a heater, you can use a layer of expanded clay, foam. If the logs are laid on the base, then the insulation can be laid between them. The distance between the lags is 50 cm.

Video - Laying the floor in the bath

Video - The order of laying the floors in the bath

The second option is when the logs are laid on pre-installed beams. In this case, beams made of massive timber with a section of 10x20 cm are attached around the perimeter of the foundation. Further:

• install intermediate floor. It is attached to the bottom of the beams, if they are provided for by the design. If not, then we put it on the logs:
• on the intermediate floor, you can additionally lay another layer of insulation. In this case, waterproofing is first laid. Then a heater is placed on it. Another layer of waterproofing is laid on it.

And now we lay the main finishing floor. It must be installed with a slope towards the drain. The board is attached to the log with screws or nails. We bring the siphon into a pre-prepared hole.

Vido - The nuances of laying a wooden floor in a bath

When installing non-leaking floors, a planed board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is used. It is best to use a grooved board. That is, a board with a groove on one end and a tongue (protrusion) on the other. As a log, a bar with a section of 50 x 50 or 50 x 70 mm is usually used. Beam - a beam with a section of 100 x 100 or more. For the manufacture of boards and logs, beams use wood of both hardwood and softwood. Most often, either pine or linden is used. Expanded clay, foam plastic, foam styrene can be a heater.

Mandatory requirement for wooden floors in the bath, both leaking and non-leaking - this is the presence of ventilation holes in the foundation. They are made so that the wood is said to breathe. That is, it released the accumulated moisture into the atmosphere. Do not forget that the lower edge of the floor must be at least 10 cm higher than the upper edge of the base.

The service life of non-leaking floors is at least 10 years.

Video - Floor in the bath (preparation of boards)

Video - Floor in the bath (installation of beams)