Types and purpose of ventilation in a log bath. Ventilation in the sauna - the right device and common mistakes How to make ventilation in the bath

Ventilation in a log bath: its arrangement should be approached very responsibly, so that later there will be less trouble and there will be no situations when someone becomes ill in the steam room due to the lack of sufficient oxygen.

Ventilation is mounted parallel to the construction of the building itself, and the choice of one or another of its types is made in accordance with the architectural features of the building.

Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process

On a note! Ventilation in the bath, made at a high quality level, provides comfortable conditions for lovers of steam, allows you to fully enjoy the bath process.

Why is there ventilation in the bath?

To answer the question, why, in fact, the bath ventilation, you should know its direct purpose.

If there is an air circulation system in the steam room, other bath rooms, they:

• warm up faster, heat fills them more evenly (direct savings on heating);
• receive oxygen in the process of soaring, vacationers feel comfortable, nothing threatens their health;
• quickly get rid of excess steam, moisture, dry;
• walls, floors, ceilings are not covered with fungi, mold, objects (benches, tubs) do not darken, the building as a whole does not deform, it will last longer.

If the room is not sufficiently or not ventilated at all, unpleasant putrefactive odors appear there, internal surfaces covered with a wet sticky coating. While bathing, vacationers experience a lack of oxygen, breathing difficulties, and the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Also, in the absence of proper air circulation, warm masses will quickly accumulate under the ceiling, and the area near the floor will be constantly cold.

However, you should also know the following: a bath of classical Russian construction, that is, from logs, with specially cut ventilation holes ... is not provided! They are recognized by professionals as superfluous, but only in one case: if the bath is neither insulated nor insulated from the outside, not insulated, not finished. In a bath without finishing, the lower wall crowns are already laid with holes through which air enters in a natural mode. If there is a stove-heater inside, then ventilation is carried out through a blower. And so fresh air is let into the Russian bath through a door or window open by five to seven centimeters. In parallel with this, the room should be cleaned of wet leaves in a timely manner, benches are dried on the street, and heavy air is driven out by waving sheets.

Specially built-in ventilation in a Russian log bath must be equipped in cases where:

• there is additional insulation or any type of insulation;
• floors do not have natural slots for draining water;

• the stove is not in the steam room, but in the adjacent room;
• windows are missing.

Important! Only in these cases, the presence of additional ventilation holes and forced circulation systems in a log bath is recognized as mandatory.

Ventilation device: important points

Let us clarify once again: we are talking about arranging ventilation in a classic-built log bath only if its natural implementation (through a stove blew, window, door, cracks in the floor) is impossible. Quite often, during the construction of baths, two extremes are observed: they refuse ventilation altogether or make it more powerful and unregulated. What will happen to vacationers in the steam room in the absence of ventilation, we said above. If the ventilation is too intense, the bath will take longer to heat up, the heat will quickly disappear from the room. The floors will cool faster, which threatens people with colds.

Fresh air should enter the steam room through an opening located directly behind the stove or under one of the loungers. In the first case, hitting a hot stove, the air warms up quickly, the difference between the ceiling and floor temperatures is neutralized. The ventilation hole located under the lounger has only one plus - it is not conspicuous. There are two minuses here - constantly cold floors in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe benches, difficult operation of the damper, since it is difficult to reach it with your hand.

Bath ventilation cannot be only supply or only exhaust. It can be exclusively supply and exhaust, as it provides constant inflow into the room of oxygen and removal of harmful, heavy, exhaust air to the street. Hence the answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a log bath can only be in the affirmative. And about what types it is, we will talk below.

There are three types of ventilation structures, and they differ in their design.

Systems are:

• natural;
• mechanical or forced;
• combined.

Natural ventilation is provided during the construction of the building by cutting holes. Dampers (covers) are installed on them, which, if necessary, completely shut off the flow of air flows or decrease (increase) their volume. This system functions due to the difference in pressure and temperature of the external atmosphere and the internal one. In order for natural ventilation to work effectively, you need to properly position the vents themselves. The inlet (supply) hole is usually located behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 meters from the floor, the outlet (exhaust) is opposite on the wall at a distance of 0.3 meters from the ceiling.

For a couple, this is not the best. the best option ventilation, since in this case the outlet must be at the same level as the inlet. Thus, the air enters behind the stove, heats up, rises up, cools down, descends, and is discharged outside through the exhaust hole.

A mechanical or forced (artificial) ventilation system is provided by installing special fans on the openings, laying pipes, and installing electrical equipment. If we compare it with natural, a number of fairly significant advantages are found, namely:

1. Oxygen enters the room faster.
2. The incoming air is filtered.
3. The microclimate inside the room is constantly kept at the same level.
4. Fresh air is distributed evenly, quickly updated.

However, in order to maximize the effect of its use, you should strictly monitor the correct location of the supply / exhaust openings.

On a note! Natural ventilation in a log bath loses to forced ventilation in several positions.

For example, it is very dependent on the weather, especially if a strong wind is directed towards the intake hole at an angle of ninety degrees. The result of the work of the forced system is always of the same quality in any weather. And the direction and strength of the wind does not play any role for her.

However, when installing a mechanical system, there are some difficulties. It cannot be equipped without electrical equipment, which is quite sensitive to the humid microclimate in a steam room with high temperatures. Moreover, moisture and high degrees are the worst enemies of any equipment powered by electricity. Therefore, all elements of the system (fans, motors, etc.) should be reliably isolated from moisture, and when connecting it, strictly follow all operating rules. For sealing electrical engineering, all seams, special cases, sealants and metallized adhesive tape are most often used.

Ventilation in the bath is not only comfort, but also an urgent need. It is needed both during and after bath procedures:

• In the process, it is important so that no one gets burned. The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning is always present - it is the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. Therefore, ventilation is necessary for the safety of people in the bath.
• Besides air that is inhaled and exhaled becomes "waste", and it must be removed, replacing it with a new one, with a greater proportion of oxygen.
• regulate the temperature, monitoring the condition of people, you can also use ventilation, especially when you need to do it urgently.
• Any stove runs on oxygen (combustion is oxidation), so it needs ventilation. And with a competent device, you can also get fuel economy.
• And, finally, drying after, on which the durability of the structure, especially its wooden parts, directly depends. Ventilation can be good prevention of fungus and decay.

At the same time, bath ventilation is quite complex and diverse in design. Of course, the question can be reduced to financial investments, but in fact, you just need a good ventilation specialist who will find the best solution in each case. We will consider all the possibilities and features of the device.

The ventilation system in the bath: what can it be?

Ventilation systems in baths are divided at once according to several parameters:

• forced or natural;
• exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust;
• local or public.

Let us explain that the forced one differs from the natural one by the presence of fans that forcibly drive air in or out, the local one differs from the general exchange one in its local character, for example, the chimney above the stove is local ventilation, and the vents are part of the general exchange.

As for the supply, exhaust and their combinations, these are indications of which air is directed where: the exhaust drives the exhaust air out, the supply air drives the fresh air in, and their combination creates a balanced air exchange inside the room.

These are general terms for any ventilation, but our task is to consider a bathhouse that has its own specifics. We advise you to familiarize yourself with (8 types) along the way.

Useful video

Watch a short video, as one of the options for organizing ventilation in the bath:

Natural ventilation in the bath

It works on the principles of physics, which say that heating makes air lighter and causes it to rise. And an increase in the volume of cold air accelerates the movement of hot air. Knowing about this property, you can not install any devices at all, there are enough ventilation holes, the location of which will make some of them supply air, and others - exhaust.

And in the bath there is a stove, and this is a very favorable circumstance for the direction of air circulation. If the natural ventilation inlet is located near the floor next to the blower, then the stove itself will draw in fresh air, without any fan. Also, traction is improved by raising the finished floor just above the hole under the firebox.

The exhaust opening is usually made on the side that is opposite the wall with the supply opening, but this is not the only option.

Forced ventilation

If fans are placed in the same holes, then you can not be afraid of calmness or other weather conditions that adversely affect the air circulation in the bath.

In principle, there is no big difference between natural and forced ventilation in the circuit itself, it is only a matter of which holes the fans are in. Because you can not put them everywhere, reinforcing only the exhaust or only the inflow. But by creating a large difference between the inflow and outflow, we change the pressure in the room. This is easily detected by the way the door slams. The task is to create a balance between outflow and inflow, and the air during bath procedures should circulate slowly, without causing a draft. And when drying, a draft is only good.

IMPORTANT! The direction in which the fan drives the air depends on the location of its blades, so it is important to ensure that there is no exhaust fan in the supply opening and vice versa.

Bath ventilation device: principles of operation

Bath ventilation can be conditionally divided into permanently functioning (roofing, foundation, wall) and periodically functioning, during bathing procedures and stove operation. Both are parts of a single ventilation system, which is laid during construction.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system: displacement of exhaust air with fresh air. In the most primitive case, two holes are enough for this, but in practice, flow directions also matter, so the number of supply and exhaust holes can be increased, and they themselves are equipped with dampers, which are a means of controlling flows, their volumes and speed.

Regardless of the location, the air inlets are always lower than the exhaust ones. Sometimes air flow is provided through the blinds at the bottom of the door to the steam room. But there is one rule: Where does the air come from, where should it go?. If we take from the premises, we need to return not to the street, but also to the premises. Otherwise it won't work.

The calculation of the area of ​​ventilation windows is quite simple: we must proceed from the fact that each cubic meter of room volume needs a window with an area of ​​24 cm². Windows in no case are made directly opposite each other at the same height.

1. When the bath warms up, the vents in the foundation close, the dampers in the steam room move.
2. During soaring, the windows open slightly as needed.
3. After completion of the procedures, the bath is ventilated entirely.

Also prepared to help you (10+ different schemes).

Bastu ventilation in the bath

Bastu-type ventilation, named after convection Swedish baths, is gaining more and more popularity in Russian baths. It is easy to make and highly effective.

The air flow under the furnace is carried out using a ventilation pipe from the street. In this case, a damper is required that would block it.

For air outflow, a box is mounted, which starts 20-30 cm from the floor and goes outside. The location of the box is diagonally from the furnace. The material is best stainless steel. The box must also overlap 100%.

So, it works as follows: if a certain volume enters the room, then the corresponding volume will be pushed out from there if there is an exit. A working furnace actively sucks in cold air from the supply air duct. Part of it is used in combustion (and leaves through the chimney), and part rises, heating up along the way from the stove. The excess volume in parallel begins to leave through the box, which takes air from the floor. Therefore, fresh heated air is in the breathing zone, and the exhaust is at the bottom and leaves.

Video

See how Bastu is explained and done in these videos:

Bastu ventilation is “turned on” and “turned off” by manipulating the valves. At the same time, the stove must work, because it is she who is the heat pump responsible for air circulation. If the stove goes out, the bastu ventilation in the bath will not work.

Bastu ventilation is ideally used in the sauna, where you need to change the air 6-8 times per hour. But in the Russian bath, the conditions are somewhat different, and although you can put the bass in it, there are restrictions on its use.

Bastu ventilation in a Russian bath

Russian banya is not too high temperature and plenty of steam. Under such conditions bastu ventilation in a Russian bath should not be “turned on” while soaring.

But you can safely start it at the very beginning, at the stage of warming up the steam room. In this case, the heating time will increase, but it will be uniform. If you leave the valves open, the bastu will dry out and overheat the steam room. You can try to "turn on" the bass on last step soaring - the air will be light, hot, you can breathe freely. Great ending to a run.

Bastu in the Russian bath useful for drying after procedures- she copes with this perfectly and there will be no smells, no mold with such drying.

Bath floor ventilation

The floor in the bath needs to be completely dried after the procedures. The first condition for this will be the organization of the correct flow, with a slope that will divert water into the sewer. Of course, there are several floor options.

For pouring (wet) floors, ventilation is especially important. Therefore, the gaps between the boards, reaching a width of up to 1 cm, are needed not only to drain water, but also to dry the boards. And the opening of the air in the foundation will help in this, which we will discuss below.

A dry floor does not imply gaps between the boards, because it is mounted from a tongue-and-groove board. So, the principle of its ventilation is somewhat different. It will be necessary to dry from above by means of salvo ventilation (this means opening all windows and doors) and the system that is provided in the bath, for example, forced supply and exhaust.

Useful video

Look at what dampness can lead to on a dry floor, even if it is covered with yacht varnish:

The ventilation riser in the washing room will be discussed below, but it also affects the ventilation of the floor.

And the floor is well blown during the operation of the furnace, if (as already mentioned), raise its level above the blower, and leave small gaps between the boards in the floor itself.

Bath foundation ventilation

Actually, everything starts with it, because it is mounted when laying the foundation. To do this, scraps of asbestos-cement pipes are taken, filled with sand and in this form are laid among the reinforcement, fastened with a knitting wire between the rods at a height of 5 to 12 cm above the ground. After stripping, the sand is removed.

There can be two such holes in total, laid on opposite sides of the base. However, in reality, one must take into account whole line various factors, on which both the number of holes and their diameter ultimately depend. By the way, the usual diameter is 11 cm.

Useful video

See what the lack of ventilation for floor and foundation ventilation can lead to:

Before designing ventilation, take into account:

• remoteness of the bath from the reservoir;
• location (on a hill or in a lowland);
• surrounded by other buildings on all sides;
• wind rose of this section;
• bath area.

It is clear that if the bath in the lowland or around solid buildings, more holes must be made, and even from all sides. You can also increase the diameter, but put a grille-blinds or damper.

CAREFULLY! Rodents can get into unprotected vents, so it is recommended to also tighten them with a metal mesh.

Holes provided with plugs are usually left closed during procedures, but they are opened to dry.

Ventilation of different rooms of the bath:

Due to differences in the temperature and humidity conditions of each of the bath rooms, ventilation in them is organized differently.

sinks

The washing compartment is the wettest, so it is recommended to equip it with a ventilation riser, which is located in the corner, under the floor. This is an asbestos-cement pipe, which is then brought to the roof and supplied with a deflector from above. Ventilation in the sink occurs due to the pressure difference between the room and the end of the pipe above the roof, the air tends to the outside, carrying excess moisture with it.

The reason why you have to bring it to the roof is simple: if moist air is immediately driven out into the street, then the wall where this hole will be located will quickly deteriorate from the outside.

steam rooms

attic

Attic ventilation is a special song. It is done at the stage of installation of the roof.

1- ceiling 2- spotlights 3- roof ridge

IMPORTANT! It is not true that for attic ventilation it is enough for a window on the pediment. These windows will not replace the supply and exhaust system in the roof.

Supply holes are made under the roof canopy (between the roof sheathing and the upper part of the wall, where the rafters rest on the Mauerplate), and exhaust holes are made on the ridge. There should also be openings on the gables, but they are small and very high.

It is also important to take into account the ratio between the area of ​​​​supply and exhaust openings on one side and the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic. It is optimal that the first be 1/500 of the second. The ratio between the area of ​​supply and exhaust is not 50 to 50, exhaust should be 10-15% larger in area than supply.

This system is suitable for those baths in which the attic is cold. And there are also baths with attics. There, ventilation is also done at a time when the roof is still open from the attic.

For ventilation of the under-roof space (between the roofing material and the membrane), either natural or forced ventilation can be used. But for the functioning of both, aerators and spotlights are needed.

Aerators are installed either on the area of ​​​​the roof slope, or on the ridge (these are the most effective). They serve for extraction. And the soffits are responsible for the flow of air. These are siding panels for sheathing roof overhangs, some of which must be perforated. The ratio of the area of ​​the ventilation holes and the ventilated area is the same as mentioned above 1/500.

IMPORTANT! The efficiency of aerators will be higher if you install only ordinary or only ridge aerators.

Fans for the under-roof space are used as supply fans. Particular attention is paid to the wiring so that it does not cause a fire.

baths in the basement or basement of the house

Part of the owners country houses takes a basement or basement under the bath. Such an arrangement of a hot and humid room makes special demands on ventilation, on which the durability of the whole house now rests.

Note that the redevelopment of the former residential or utility premises includes the redevelopment of ventilation. In general, it is more expensive than the bath included in the project of a house under construction.

One way or another, you need do not forget about the ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation. This will protect against damage to the insulation by condensate. But the moisture in the air corridor must also go somewhere. Therefore, for basement and basement baths, professionally made supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended, and it is better not natural, but forced. Both are accompanied by the installation of a basement deflector.

The location of the basement ventilation depends on the specifics of the project and will not be given here. It is also possible to install a special dehumidifier.

A good option would be to choose bastu ventilation - it's not so expensive, but very effective. The bastu device was mentioned above.

shower

If there is a shower cabin or an open shower in the bath, it is worth installing forced ventilation nearby, which will speed up the drying process.

If we assume that the air flow is provided by the already existing supply openings located in the washing room and other rooms, then you can put the fan only on the exhaust opening, which is located near the shower. (You can do the same if there is a bathroom in the bath.)

dressing room

The dressing room suffers from condensation due to the temperature difference between it and the hot rooms of the bath. That's why ventilation in it is necessary in the same way as everywhere else in the bath. One air is located below, the other is above. The lower one is responsible for the inflow of air, the upper - for its outflow. Installation of forced ventilation is not prohibited. In addition, you can ventilate the dressing room with the help of a door and (if any) a window.

In contact with

The positive impact of regular bath procedures on the body is invaluable. At the same time, a bath is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits will be easily blocked by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bath.

Importance of the system

Even in the old days, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in the bathhouse can quickly cause dampness, mold, fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they contributed to the improvement of air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Today, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, because after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constant high humidity, and if the bath is built using frame technology, then its service life will be even less. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable at the moment the stove is kindled. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in the bath must certainly comply with the basic requirements and principles of safety:

• Proper distribution of air masses. As is known from the school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush up, and cold ones, on the contrary, fall. Therefore, the flows should be directed so that the legs do not freeze, and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
• Maintaining a predetermined level of heating in the steam room. Under no circumstances should ventilation interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, air cooling is unacceptable.
• The use of waterproof materials. For the arrangement of steam rooms and the organization of ventilation, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to moisture and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating an efficient air exchange system is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot moist air from all parts of the bath, but at the same time it is required to prevent a decrease in temperature in the hot steam room, therefore modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow cold air to be blown in from the street. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas furnaces, since such schemes require a large amount of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How it works?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of ventilation and complete drying of all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, attic and the entire under-roofing area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roof and the materials for its manufacture. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally mounted, which allows ventilation to be achieved between the layer of thermal insulation material and other layers of the roofing pie. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensate in the bath.

But for the best drying of the floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is arranged. Such options should be considered at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, a subfloor is laid and concrete is poured at an angle, then the boards are laid in such a way that small gaps remain between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all bath rooms need airing: a steam room, a sink, a rest room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, it is necessary to select in advance such a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bath and the conditions of its operation.

Experienced Builders they do not advise to carry out complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods that may be suitable for each individual case. Here, the statement that the simpler the better is 100% true, and at its cost this option will be much cheaper.

The principle of operation of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the supply of fresh street air, and the second allows overheated and humid air to come out. How these windows are located in relation to each other depends largely on which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the furnace will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths two outlets are cut instead of a single outlet, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

Of fundamental importance are the dimensions of the windows, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the clearance. To do this, special valves are fixed on them, allowing you to cover any open slots.

It is very important to make the correct calculations of the window, taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, then the steam room simply cannot warm up to the required temperature and you will have to spend more electricity. And if the windows are too small, then the intensity of the movement of flows will be reduced and a complete supersaturation of the air with water vapor may occur.

The size and location of the ventilation windows primarily affects the ingress and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from the overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room up to 50 years and even more. The variant of the ventilation system in each case is selected individually and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All the options for arranging ventilation developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and also combined.

natural ventilation assumes that the change of air is carried out due to the unimpeded flow of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of the steam rooms and the removal of the exhaust through special openings.

Forced the system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed on the hood and much less often on the inflow. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

combined option, as the name implies, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, “bastu” is the most common. It involves the formation of a small opening with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind or below the furnace.

As additional elements, vents are equipped above the stove, which are controlled by a valve and a valve - it is through them that air enters from the outside through the vents from the underground. Usually the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, however, as soon as there is a need to reduce the level of humidity in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is far from suitable in every case, therefore, in some situations, the installation of an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this, a fan is attached to the bottom of the box. If you install it in the supply hole behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. From the outside of the building, such holes are interconnected by a special ventilation duct. Less often, an exhaust hood is installed in the baths, in which one single channel works for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are equipped at the same height from the floor level: one is placed behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unfortunate way involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming in from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, stumbles upon the feet of the steamers. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such an arrangement is also quite common when it is not technically possible to make holes from different sides of the room.

materials

The choice of the bath ventilation system is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bath is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bath has common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be taken especially carefully in order to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in the baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must necessarily include a fan, which will help to effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bath can be connected to the elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are equipped directly in the walls, and later they are brought out to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional air vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of the buildings according to the frame method is that the walls in them are covered with a large number of heat-insulating layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove the exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with shutters.

In baths built from gas blocks and foam blocks, due to the individual characteristics of the material, galvanized air ducts are equipped. To do this, they purchase ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some craftsmen create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, after giving them the necessary configuration and reliably sealing the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in a classic Russian log bath. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all the rooms of the bath, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem often arises of creating optimal proportions between the air entering from outside and leaving the street. In order to prevent the occurrence of drafts and not to "heat the street", experts recommend additionally insulating the bath well and equipping small holes with special valves inside the thermal insulation material, which serve to enter and remove flows.

In buildings made of wood, the burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately imagine how many bathers will take bath procedures. If the bath is being built for a small family, then you can simply arrange a small supply hole near the stove and an exhaust hole under the ceiling, and if the building is focused on a large company, then forced options should be preferred.

How to make your own?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly equip the ventilation system. You can spend it in the bath both on your own and with the involvement of specialists. This will require a project of work, materials and tools, as well as a little time and effort.

What will be needed?

For the installation of ventilation ducts in the bath, preparation is needed. In the work you will need components:

• several ventilation valves;
• valve;
• metal grate;
• mosquito net;
• ventilation box;
• corrugated air duct;
• hygrometer;
• fan;

• thermometer;
• metallized adhesive tape;
• collar;
• mounting foam;
• sealant;
• fasteners;
• decorative overlays for facing inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely represented in any store in a variety of colors and textures, so getting the best option will not be a problem. Vent valves are installed on the exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Gate valves are used to quickly open or close openings. They are made from the most various materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and fixation strength, they are in no way inferior to store options.

A grid with a mesh, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier to insects and rodents, whose presence is highly undesirable either at home or in a bathhouse. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is attached from the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some make the box on their own, using corrugated pipes for this. Keep in mind that plastic options not suitable for steam rooms, because under the influence of high temperatures, most types of plastic begin to deform.

The fan in the steam room is used for both supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it will work only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially made for Finnish saunas and baths. Thermo and hygrometers are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its performance, open the supply valve or start the exhaust.

Planning for the construction of the steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some of the nuances of installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bath, it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. The adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after the completion of the decorative finishing of the complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, while if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust hole with a diameter lower than that of the supply one is strictly not allowed, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

By all means, dampers and valves must be provided in the system, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow closing the holes with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable shutters are also important because the air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the season. In winter, when outside the window prevail negative temperatures, cold air masses penetrate the bathhouse more intensively, which is why in the autumn-winter period the windows are partially opened, thereby delaying the entry of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conditionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are made with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too much ventilated, or vice versa.

Even at the design stage of the bath, it should be remembered that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required areas of heating. Exhaust openings should be located slightly below ceiling level. This is because warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed to the outside, and if the holes are low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the general microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, since with constant contact with water, wooden surfaces lose their performance characteristics after 3-5 years, therefore important requirements for a ventilated floor:

• to form the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
• the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter in size between the boards;
• the finishing floor must be laid without fail above the level of the blower, which contributes to the fact that the stove starts to work as an additional hood;
• after taking bath procedures, you should leave the front door completely open until the floor dries.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to equip ventilation here, since there is no direct contact with water in such a room. As a rule, a combined or natural ventilation method is formed here, when cool air enters through the supply duct and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the action of a fan.

In addition, it is allowed to install ventilators here, which may require connecting to an electric current network and access to the street. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air exchange here occurs with the help of an electric motor.

We organize the hood in an already built bath

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation, which was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bath was heated - in black or white, it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct soaring, so open windows and doors were used for ventilation. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip the hood in an already built building.

To do this, you should punch holes right in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is punched in the area of ​​​​the furnace blowing, and the second - near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bath is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then it will be much more problematic to form holes and equip the hood, since in the process of such work it is possible to violate the integrity of the walls at all in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bath as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not independently do ventilation in already operated baths. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that the basic principles for creating an effective ventilation system largely depend on the dimensions of the bath and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be observed regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for inflow, the second - for withdrawal air masses. If you plan in advance the hood in the bath under construction, you can avoid serious problems with the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam room.

It is absolutely unacceptable that installed ventilation created the following problems:

The presence of ventilation is a prerequisite for a comfortable presence in the bath. For the intake of fresh air and the withdrawal of exhaust air, ordinary ventilation is most often performed - windows, doors, and air vents are opened. Such ventilation is called natural. Unfortunately, it is not always effective. For example, in large baths with a washing compartment (pool), forced ventilation is more effective in order to eliminate unpleasant odors, quickly dry surfaces and create an optimal microclimate.

The principle of operation of such a system

Any ventilation system consists of at least two holes. One of them is inlet, the other is exhaust. Fresh cold air, entering the steam room through the inlet, mixes with warm "local" air. The heat flow is distributed throughout the room. At the same time, the exhaust air is repelled to the exhaust opening and removed through it to the street or to other rooms of the bath.

If there are not enough natural reasons for the circulation of air currents, a forced ventilation system is arranged. Its essence is that fans are installed on one or both ventilation openings - supply or exhaust. They provide forced air movement. Supply fan draws fresh air from the outside with the blades, and the exhaust, on the contrary, pushes out the exhaust.

Often, gratings (slotted, louvered) or plugs are placed on the ventilation ducts, with the help of which they change the size of the hole and the intensity of air circulation.

If the supply opening is less open than the exhaust opening, then ventilation is enhanced. If the air flow speed reaches 0.3 m/s, there is a feeling of draft. This cannot be allowed. Ideally, the air movement should be smooth, slow, which means that the vents should open approximately the same.

Types of forced ventilation

There are the following types of forced ventilation (depending on the purpose of the fans):

• exhaust;
• supply;
• supply and exhaust.

Let's talk in more detail about each.

Exhaust ventilation

In design exhaust ventilation there is an extractor fan. It is installed on the exhaust outlet of the ventilation system. There is also a supply hole in this type of system. Usually these are air ducts with ventilation grilles, windows with plugs, a gap under the door, etc. Exhaust ventilation reduces the air pressure in the steam room (creates a vacuum), which is compensated by the influx of fresh outside air.

Exhaust ventilation effectively removes harmful gases, unpleasant odors, and excess moisture. This is especially true in showers, washing rooms, rooms with a pool, bathrooms of a bath.

The exhaust ventilation device is simple. Usually it includes a fan and a ventilation duct. Sometimes, when a powerful hood is used, the system is supplemented with a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation almost completely copies the exhaust system. But the fan is not installed to remove the used, but to supply fresh outdoor air.

When the supply system is operating, the pressure in the room increases, respectively, the exhaust air is drawn out through the exhaust ducts, doors, vents, gaps in the floor, ceiling, and walls.

Supply fans work to take in cool (and in winter - cold!) street air. To prevent this from reducing the temperature in the steam room, the ventilation system is equipped with special air heaters. Filters are used to purify the supply air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

This is a combined system consisting of a forced air supply and a mechanical exhaust. In addition to fans, it can be equipped with recuperators, filters, silencers. It is possible to make the supply and exhaust ventilation fully mechanical by equipping it with an automatic control unit.

The design of supply and exhaust ventilation is the most complex. It is very important at the stage of its design to calculate the air exchange in the bath room. The amount of displaced air must be equal to the amount of supply air. This is ideal. But sometimes this balance is deliberately violated in order to create air flows of the desired direction. For example, if there is a bathroom in the bathhouse, then in order to prevent unpleasant odors from entering other rooms, it is artificially created underpressure. By installing a hood with high power. After that, the air from the room is more high pressure will independently go to the zone of low pressure. That is, go to the bathroom, and not to the steam room, showers, sinks.

Organization methods and ready-made schemes

Consider several ready-made schemes for performing forced ventilation.

Scheme #1. Exhaust ventilation

Behind the furnace, 0.3 m from the floor, they equip the supply air vent. The exhaust fan is equipped on the opposite wall, a little higher - 0.4-0.5 m from the floor. Fresh air, getting into the steam room through the inlet, passes through the stove, warms up and rises to the ceiling. Gradually cooling down, it goes down and is drawn in by the exhaust fan. This forced ventilation scheme is quite popular due to the simplicity of the device and the rapid change in air flow.

Scheme #2. Forced ventilation

In a large steam room for a quick change of air, it is advisable to equip forced ventilation. For better circulation, air flows are directed not from the bottom up, as with natural ventilation, but from the top down. An inlet with a fan is equipped behind the furnace, 0.5 m above its level. The exhaust hole is placed in the lower part of the opposite wall, at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the floor.

Supply ventilation according to this scheme works as follows. With the help of a fan, cold air is blown into the steam room through the inlet. Once in the range of the furnace, it quickly warms up and rises to the ceiling. Cooler streams are forced down and out through the exhaust port.

Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation

This scheme is intended for ventilation equipment in the bath steam room and shower room. A supply air vent with a fan is placed above the stove. The minimum distance from the heater is 50 cm. An exhaust hole (without a fan) is made on the adjacent wall next to the floor, away from the stove. In this case, the diameter of the exhaust duct should be 2 times larger than the diameter of the supply duct.

Another exhaust outlet with a fan is located in the shower room adjacent to the steam room, under the ceiling. Air enters the shower room from the steam room through a gap under the door.

Some mounting features

After choosing a ventilation scheme, it's time to move on to its installation. To do this, you will need the following devices and materials:

• Fan. Heat-resistant, moisture-resistant fans with the ability to control the speed are suitable for the bath. According to the installation method, they are channel or radial. Channel pipes are placed directly in the duct, and radial ones - at its outlet.
• Ventilation box. Can be solid - made of plastic or galvanized steel. Or flexible, made in the form of a corrugated pipe on a metal frame.
• Ventilation grates. Production material - according to your preference.

The ventilation system is mounted according to the following plan:

1. According to the chosen scheme, holes are made in the walls (top and bottom). It is desirable that they be planned at the stage of building a bath.
2. Ventilation boxes are installed in the holes.
3. Mount (in a box or outside the hole) a fan - exhaust or supply.
4. Connect the fan to the electricity network. The connection scheme will depend on the desired way to turn on the fan. The fan can be turned on in the following ways: simultaneously with lighting, by pressing a separate switch, through a motion sensor. Shutdown can also be done in different ways. For example, either when the light is turned off, or after a scheduled time (when using a timer).
5. Ventilation grilles are placed on the ventilation openings.

Here is an example of a fan installation:

Competent installation of forced ventilation will help you organize active air exchange in the bath rooms. As a result, you will get rid of unpleasant odors in washing and bathrooms, provide “easy breathing” in the steam room, and protect yourself from carbon monoxide damage.

Floor ventilation in the bath is an urgent need. The constant dampness of the flooring will inevitably lead to rotting of the material, even if concrete base. And floors with areas of rot, mold, fungi become a source of various infections and bad smell. And the durability of such an element will be short. To ventilate the floor of a bath means to increase its service life without repair, to exclude an unhealthy effect on the human body and to ensure the comfort of the bath procedure.

Rot on the floor in the bath indicates a lack of ventilation

Problem Features

The floor in the bath is in extreme conditions. Active moistening of the material goes both from below (from the side of the ground) and from above during the operation of the institution. Particularly difficult conditions are created in the steam room, where saturated heated water vapor, in contact with the flooring, cools and condenses. The resulting water penetrates into the material, creating a favorable environment for various harmful organisms. The destructive process is accelerated by an elevated temperature, which at the floor surface can be 30-40 degrees.

Not much better conditions and in the washing department. Here, streams of water (both warm and cold) pour onto the floor from showers and various containers for watering. Moreover, water is mixed with detergents, which increases the aggressiveness of the impact.

A more favorable environment arises in the dressing room and the rest room. However, in these rooms, one should not discount the possibility of steam from the steam room through the open door, as well as moisture from wet feet.

Ventilation of the floor in the bath prevents the appearance of fungus and rot, and also draws out excess steam

From the side of the soil, moisture is caused by natural conditions. The most dangerous is the presence of high-lying groundwater and the rise of the water level during prolonged precipitation, snowmelt and flood situations. In principle, drainage systems and waterproofing layers in the floor structure are intended to protect against the effects of this moisture, but they cannot completely exclude the penetration of moisture from below.

nuance! Do-it-yourself ventilation of the floors in the bath is considered an effective way to deal with the problem of dampness.

By providing an influx of fresh air, it accelerates the drying of the material between bathing procedures. It does not allow condensation to accumulate on the surface, does not allow microorganisms to actively develop, and removes polluted air from the room.

Principles of organization of ventilation

Floor ventilation in bath rooms can be performed various methods. One of the most important elements of the system is the creation of ventilation spaces in the floor structure, which eliminates the accumulation of moisture inside, between the layers. The main system can be based on several characteristic structures: ventilation under the floor in the sauna, general ventilation of the sauna room, blowing warm air.

Structurally, any ventilation of a room should include an inlet for fresh air mass and an outlet for polluted air. To do this, all bath rooms are equipped with inlet and outlet ventilation openings (vents). In addition, if necessary, air ducts (air ducts), dampers, protective grilles are installed to ensure air supply at the right time and in the right direction.

By the nature of the provision of air flow, this process can be natural and artificial (forced). The first option is considered classical, in which the movement of the air flow occurs spontaneously in accordance with the laws of convection, i.e. as a result of a temperature or pressure gradient. When such floor ventilation occurs in the bath, the flow diagram has characteristic appearance(Fig. 1).

Nuance! In a natural scheme, the inlet vent should be located as low as possible (under or near the floor).

The air, heating up, will rise up, and this is where the outlet should be located. It is not recommended to ventilate the floor in the bath through the attic, i.e. through an opening in the ceiling. A closed space is formed in the attic, where all harmful secretions gradually accumulate, which can then return to the bathhouse through the hole, but already in a concentrated state.

Figure 1. Natural ventilation occurs due to the difference in air pressure in the steam room

Forced ventilation bath floor is based on the use of special equipment that creates an adjustable air flow in the required direction. It is possible to use the following types of artificial ventilation:

1. Exhaust type: the influx of fresh air from the outside occurs naturally, and the outlet vent is provided by an exhaust fan, which forcibly draws out the exhaust air mass.
2. Supply type: forced supply of fresh air is carried out using an inlet air fan, while its removal from the bath room occurs naturally through an appropriate vent.
3. The supply and exhaust type combines the listed technologies, combining the forced supply and exhaust air.
4. The general exchange system is a complicated version of the previous ventilation. A unified air circulation scheme is created using air ducts, which makes it possible to control the volume, direction and speed of the air flow.

There is an option for outflow ventilation through the floor in the bath to the outside

System design features

When arranging floor ventilation, a number of specific conditions must be taken into account. The efficiency and comfort of the system is due to the following requirements:

• prevention of floor cooling during the bath procedure, it is especially important to ensure the absence of drafts (should not pull on the legs);
• the volume of air mass must be sufficient to perform the tasks;
• fast, optimal drying should be ensured, especially in the presence of wooden floors, when dampness is unacceptable, but excessive drying is also bad, which can cause cracking of the wood;
• arrangement of ventilation should be carried out at the construction stage of the bath, when vents of the desired shape and size are created, pipes are laid, distribution channels (gaps) are formed.

When providing supply ventilation through the floor it is necessary that cold air does not pull along the floor

The quality and characteristics of ventilation depend primarily on the location of the vents. When choosing a place for them, it is necessary to take into account climatic conditions (humidity and air temperature), wind conditions (“wind rose”), the landscape of the site, the presence of polluting sources, as well as internal factors - the type and location of the furnace, the design of doors, the presence of windows and vents.

Most often, the inlet for floor ventilation is placed in the following places, at 3 different levels:

• lowest level: in the foundation or under the floor covering;
• directly under the stove or at the level of its base;
• in the wall at a height of 35-45 cm from the floor (best behind the stove).

The most common options

Most often, when organizing floor ventilation in a bath, the following fairly simple solutions are used:

1. You can ventilate the bath under the floor by creating an air draft under the floor covering. To do this, the inlet is equipped below the level of the upper flooring, and the flooring itself is raised above the subfloor by 3-5 cm. A gap of 10-15 mm is left between the flooring boards.
2. Ventilation according to the Basta system. The air flow is provided under the furnace, while the outlet is arranged on the opposite side. Under the floor, the air mass is directed through a box lined with aluminum foil. The size of such an air duct corresponds to the size of the chimney duct. Thus, hot ventilation of the floor in the bath is ensured.
3. Ventilation stand. Such a system is often used in a washing room. In this case, an asbestos pipe is installed, which is brought out of the bath roof, which creates good air draft. Such a riser is usually equipped with a deflector.

Ventilation according to the Basta system in the steam room

Features of the underfloor system

Ventilation mounted under the floor of the bath has a number of advantages. In addition to helping to eliminate condensation and ensure the drying of the floor covering, the airflow hidden at the bottom cannot cause drafts, which means that the system can also be used during the bath procedure.

For effective operation of ventilation under the floor, it is important to properly equip drain system, i.e. constantly remove wastewater outside the bath. Ventilation is provided by the arrangement of 2 holes in the foundation. They are located on opposite walls, but not directly opposite each other. In general, the option is considered optimal when the air flow passes along a complex path, covering the maximum possible area. The vents are equipped with valves that allow you to adjust the fresh air supply time and flow rate. It is necessary to single out one of the varieties of the outlet vent - a vertical hole through the entire thickness of the foundation to the ground. Moisture drainage is also provided through this channel.

The ventilation channel under the floor is formed by jumpers (lags), which are usually used as a beam measuring 6-8 x 10-15 cm. These logs are mounted on a concrete screed, made with a slope to drain the drain. The boardwalk is laid on top of the joists, and the boards are fastened with a gap, which ensures a free outflow of water. The shutters on the vents open taking into account the outside temperature. In summer, they can be open all the time, but in winter, active ventilation should be carried out only when there are no people in the steam room.

Arrangement of warm floors

One of the most comfortable and effective options is to make a warm floor in the bath with ventilation. To solve this problem, it is necessary to direct heated air into the ventilation ducts. In bathing conditions, it can be obtained using an oven. You can use a two-section pipe, which will provide ventilation for both the premises and the underground. This pipe is directed through the sauna stove, and the air flow is divided in 2 directions: into the steam room and under the floor. It is desirable to provide such a system with forced exhaust.

In the locker room of the bath, you can build a warm floor with ventilation

advice! Underfloor heating with hot air ventilation must be well insulated from the ground surface to reduce the cooling of the channel from soil water (especially in winter).

For this, waterproofing and an effective heat-insulating layer are laid. In the system under consideration, the external decking is superimposed with a tight fit of the boards to each other, without a gap. The outlet of the system is combined with the chimney, which increases the draft. The inlet and outlet are equipped with valves.

Ventilation of the floor in the bath is considered an important element of its arrangement, which helps prevent rotting of the material and increase the service life of the entire structure. With the help of ventilation, you can provide warm floors, which will increase the comfort of bath procedures. The ventilation bath system can be provided with your own hands, but for this it is necessary to take into account the specific requirements and recommendations of specialists.

State norms for ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum frequency of air exchange in rooms, depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential areas, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Download file

SNiP 41–01–2003

For a bath, ventilation tasks become more complicated, it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (fast drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are cases when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before taking procedures by small children, the elderly or large people. Bake long time continues to give off heat, wait until the bath cools down on its own, for a very long time. With the help of room ventilation, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits all the time people stay in it.

What are the types of ventilation and the method of their calculation

Ventilation can only exist when there is an inflow of fresh air and an outflow of used air into the room. Often you can find the concept of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. These are not quite correct concepts, there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these terms used? Thus, it is emphasized that the supply or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs in a natural way.

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions according to air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air replacement within an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and climate zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply / exhaust air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics of each type of ventilation, consider them in more detail.

General rules for ventilation in the bath

The principles of the ventilation device in the bath largely depend on architectural features her designs. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through the same slots, there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when opened, they “turn” into exhaust holes. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the air change rate.

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most efficient and low-cost ones), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without gaps. It is on such a bath that we will focus in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?

1. For better mixing of air throughout the volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature along the height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of acceptance. water procedures.
2. For the supply of fresh air. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the residence time does not exceed 20 ÷ 30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in the steam room for a long time, then the influx of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers fall into two extremes: in order to save heat, they generally refuse ventilation or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account the features of the premises, the requirements for the temperature in the steam room, the materials for the manufacture of walls and cladding.

In the event of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation increase and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But this is not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation is fraught with cold floors

The influx of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many air movement patterns on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Follow only two conditions: air inflow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of channels diagonally across the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal circulation and air mixing. Everything else is reasoning about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two multi-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The air outlets are located at different heights.

One under the very ceiling, is used only for complete ventilation of the bath after the completion of water procedures. The second is done 30 ÷ 40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bath, they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts are used to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter if it is natural or forced. This is quite justified from both technological and economic points of view.

And what other rooms can be connected to the steam room with ventilation ducts? Weird question. Then why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Wouldn't it be easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grates with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will talk about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This universal option, perfect for both "budget" and expensive exclusive pairs.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety, and quite effective. The specific locations of the ventilation openings should be taken into account, taking into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the building material. The general rule is that the holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the outer walls. It is desirable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger than smaller. In case of too rapid air exchange, leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently.

Somewhat complicates the ventilation system, requires the installation of electrical equipment. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection housing from moisture, during connection, the recommendations of the Electrical Installation Code must be strictly observed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

The advantages of forced ventilation - the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same efficiency in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bath do not provide for air to enter through the cracks in the floor, doors, windows or the furnace. It is necessary to make holes for both entry and exit of air. There is no internal and external wall cladding, the bathhouse is built of sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit channel diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the volume of the room. Also, the inlet air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an exit hole in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a decision, humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire truss system.

Step 2 Purchase or make your own grates and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, consider the materials of the future plating of the external and internal walls, consider how decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable gaps, only they can provide smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - from the outside of the bath, the holes should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, to prevent moisture from rain or snow from getting on the log house crowns.

Step 3 Make holes in the walls.

The most time-consuming operation, you have to work manually. Pre-in the marked places, you need to drill holes around the perimeter. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to gouge the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, a chisel and a hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the timber bridges remaining between the holes. Ventilation holes should be made 1-2 cm around the perimeter more than the inserted pipe. The fact is that then this pipe must be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensate on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - the timber will have to be cut across the fibers, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bath, and the second half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut a hole. But we immediately warn you that it is very dangerous to work with a gasoline saw in such conditions. You will have to cut with the end of the tire, while grabbing the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This way of using the saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to dilute the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable not to use round pipes, but rectangular, they occupy less space under the lining of the inner walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints of the elbow and pipe with silicone and wrap with adhesive tape for reliability.

Scotch metallized

Step 4 Lay foil or polyethylene film and mineral wool around the perimeter of the holes, the wool layer should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even, carefully make sure that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5 Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should enter with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to walk around the perimeter of the hole and pipe with foam. Mounting foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after wall cladding, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. During the expansion of the foam, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damages will automatically close.

The pipe to the hood may not be insulated, warm air comes out through it. But we advise, just in case, to do all the operations for her. First, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will make additional and reliable protection against penetration to wooden structures atmospheric moisture.

When both holes are prepared, you can start upholstering the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. We strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil during the installation of steam room ventilation. The work is performed according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation should be either permanently closed (during the adoption of water procedures) or permanently open (during the airing of the bath). Using foil as a wall vapor barrier has many benefits. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensate between the skin and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house with a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation by hand, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to a heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are enough.

Step 1. Choose a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling site.

Step 2 To lighten the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication should be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its inner and outer surfaces.

Step 3 Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill. Insert a crown into a shallow hole and start drilling the beam.

Step 4 Drill as long as the bit height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown to the bar.

Step 5. The crown does not work further - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It is removed quickly, start gradually chipping holes in the corners. Don't cut the log across the grain with the chisel, only chip it along the grain, it's much easier to do the job.

Repeat the steps until the hole is through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot go through it on one side, go to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the already made hole as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You will have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and do it very carefully through hole. The more precisely you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Bath ventilation with heating

Enough original way ventilation devices, not only fresh air lends itself to the bath, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter, as it is possible not only to increase the comfort of your stay, but also to speed up the heating of the premises and save firewood.

The air intake is made at the bottom of the bath and is fed into the air intake duct with the help of electric fans.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, air from the duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator for heating the air coming from the duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can slightly improve the design. Install a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the parameters of the microclimate in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

Ventilation in the bath: how to do it

Ventilation in the bath is essential. First of all, ventilation is designed to ensure the safety of people who take bath procedures.

Everyone knows that when you breathe, you inhale oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. In a tightly closed room, he will begin to suffocate after a while. And in the steam room, where the temperature is high and the concentration of water vapor, this will begin to happen even faster.

Relaxing on a shelf, you can simply not have time to get to the saving door of the bath. The price of the wrong ventilation device can be too high.

The second important factor is wood decay. Enjoying bath procedures and benefiting from them, smelling rot and mold, is very problematic. That's why proper ventilation in the Russian bath - a guarantee not only of its benefits, but also of the health of vacationers.

Experts believe that such a ventilation device in the bath can be considered correct, in which the air in the room is replaced three times in one hour. The ventilation scheme in the bath is selected depending on the type of structure and materials used in the construction of the walls.

General principles of ventilation in the bath

The correct arrangement of the bath and ventilation in it, regardless of the type of structure, is based on the following basic principles:

• Fresh air that enters the steam room should not violate its temperature regime;
• The already exhausted air, which contains the most carbon dioxide, should be removed from the room;
• The location of the air in the steam room should be layered: the hottest - under the ceiling, on the bench - the most comfortable and cold - near the floor.

Note!
There should be no draft in the steam room!

If all these principles are followed, then bath procedures will bring maximum effect for which they are counting - the restoration of mental and physical strength.

Ventilation device in a free-standing wooden bath

The tree is considered ideal building material for a bath. Wooden walls "breathe", so the issue of air exchange is partially solved in a natural way.

However, even in wooden building in the steam room ventilation is necessary. At least for quick drying of the tree after taking bath procedures.

Work plays an important role in air exchange processes. sauna stove. When water is poured onto the sauna heater, a column of hot steam is created, which rises up. As it cools, it lowers, pushing the used air out of the steam room.

Together, the above factors allow you to create the necessary humidity and temperature in the steam room, and ensure normal air circulation.

Let us consider in more detail the ventilation device in wooden baths. The main tasks for us, of course, will be to ensure the inflow of fresh air and the removal of already exhausted air. Our instructions will help you cope with these tasks.

Ensuring air flow

The correct frame is laid in such a way that the lower crowns are free. With this installation, it is possible to access fresh air from the street.

In addition, in any case, there will be gaps around the steam room door that are sufficient for it to enter. The stove in such baths is placed closer to the door so that it immediately heats up.

If the steam room is designed for 6 or more people, a separate air duct is brought to the heater, which supports the combustion process. If you make this duct double, then the problem of fresh air supply is solved once and for all.

Exhaust air removal

If the heater is heated directly from the steam room, then the exhaust air is thrown through the furnace into the chimney of the bath. At correct installation oven, additional holes are not required.

In order to dry the room after the end of the bath procedures, a small hole can be cut in the wall (up to 200x200 mm). At the time of heating and work of the steam room, it is closed with a special plug.

If there is a window in the steam room, such a hole is not needed. Sometimes a window from the steam room is cut through into the washing room, and either a through hole to the street or another window is already made in the washing room. Thus, when drying, two birds with one stone are immediately killed, both the steam room and the washing room are dried.

Thus, the myth that ventilation is not needed for a wooden bath is confirmed when the following conditions are met:

• The steam room is calculated for 2-4 people;
• The lower crowns of the log house are laid freely;
• The stove-heater is heated directly from the steam room;
• There is a hole or window in the wall for ventilation.

Actually, such family baths are usually built on personal plots.

Ventilation device in a free-standing brick bath

A brick structure, as well as a structure made of foam concrete, expanded clay blocks and other capital structures, is another matter. Ventilation in a brick bath is more complex.

The first difference is that the floors in a brick building must be ventilated. The thing is that the floors in the bath are constantly in contact with water, and if they are deaf, then you will have to change the boards about once every three to four years. You can not even talk about unpleasant odors and mold.

The ventilation of the floor in the bath is laid even at the stage of foundation construction. To do this, special holes are made in the foundation on opposite sides. These holes will provide through air circulation under the floor and dry the log.

The second difference is the obligatory presence in the steam room of special supply and exhaust openings. There may be several. Two air inlets are made at floor level and covered with bars so that rodents do not penetrate.

There are 4 most popular schemes for the ventilation device in the bath, from which you can choose the most suitable for you.

• Scheme No. 1. The air inlet is located behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the floor. An exhaust hole is cut in the opposite wall no higher than 30 cm from the floor. A bath fan is installed on it, which will circulate air.

According to this scheme, the air in the steam room is heated evenly, the incoming air is heated from the stove and rises. Cooling, it goes down and exits through the outlet. The lower it is located, the stronger the air flow will be. When using a fan, a ventilation valve can be installed on the outlet.

• Scheme No. 2. Suitable for those baths where the stove is heated from the steam room. In this case, the inflow is done directly under the stove. The flow of fresh air is sucked in by the stove, supporting combustion, and provides an inflow directly into the room.

The exhaust hole is located above the floor and a corrugated pipe is connected to it, which rises up to the level of the roof and goes outside. In other cases, the ventilation duct is made in the wall.

Note!
If the walls of the bath are made of expanded clay concrete blocks, then it is best to lay the ventilation ducts during construction.

• Scheme No. 3. According to this scheme, ventilation for the bath is arranged through cracks in the floor. In this case, the supply hole is made in the wall near the stove at a height of 30-50 cm from the floor. The air, heated up, rises and exits through the cracks between the floorboards into the basement. From the basement space, it is thrown out with the help of a special pipe.

Note! For the normal functioning of this type of ventilation, it is necessary to leave gaps between the floorboards of 5-10 mm.

• Scheme No. 4. This scheme is suitable in cases where the stove also heats other rooms.

Fresh air is sucked in by the stove through holes in the floor and, passing through the firebox, goes into the steam room and into the washing room. It is removed from the premises through the holes located below, above the floor level.

There are also combined ventilation schemes, but for their do-it-yourself device, consultation with a specialist is necessary.

To clearly understand how ventilation is arranged in the bath, the video in this article will help you.

How to mount ventilation in a bath in a steam room

Russian bath is very beneficial for health. The fundamental point in its construction is well-equipped ventilation in the bath in the steam room. In this room, as a rule, very high temperature and humidity. Properly organized air circulation is a necessary condition.

Often, many homeowners doubt whether ventilation is needed in the bath in the steam room. The proposed material will allow you to correctly answer this question and solve all the problems with the arrangement of ventilation without much difficulty and without significant material costs.

Ventilation in the steam room is necessary for air circulation

Why do you need ventilation in the steam room

Proper ventilation of the sauna steam room helps to solve the following problems:

• maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature;
• health safety;
• the preservation of the wood used for the interior decoration of the steam room.

Ventilation products in the steam room help to regulate the temperature, and keep the wood from dampness and fungus longer

If the ventilation of the steam room in the Russian bath is not properly equipped, the appearance of such negative factors as:

• rapid cooling of heated air;
• accumulation of gases during the adoption of procedures;
• premature decay of finishing materials;
• the appearance of harmful microbes, bacteria, mold, fungi;
• bad smell.

The proposed material will describe in detail what should be properly organized ventilation in the steam room of the bath, video and photo materials will clearly illustrate all the key points.

Basic principles of steam room ventilation

A specific scheme for arranging ventilation is usually selected taking into account the architectural features of the building itself, the size, number of rooms, etc. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the basic principles for arranging ventilation systems for steam rooms in Russian baths. If they are violated, various negative phenomena can occur that create a serious threat to the health and life of vacationers.

The fresh air inlet is located just above the floor level. In order for the incoming air to warm up immediately, the inlet is located in the immediate vicinity of the furnace.

The outlet for used air is located under the ceiling. The main thing is that the inlet and outlet for air be equipped on opposite walls.

Important! Under no circumstances should these holes be placed at the same level! The air in the interior space will not fully circulate. There will be a temperature difference that creates a serious health hazard.

The dimensions of the inlet and outlet holes are identical. They are selected depending on the dimensions of the internal space of the steam room. For 1 cu. m of air requires 24 cm of pipe diameter. If necessary, arrangement of additional air outlets is allowed.

The ventilation of the steam room is arranged in such a way that the exhaust air is completely replaced every 3-4 hours. This is required by sanitary and fire safety standards.

The vent in the bath is equipped with valves to regulate the air flow

The ventilation device in the steam room of the bath requires the mandatory placement of a valve system. You can use special blinds for this. This will allow you to control the amount of air entering and exiting. If necessary, the bath can be heated or cooled very quickly and without much difficulty.

You need to think about how to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath already when drawing up a project. This will allow you to correctly place all ventilation pipes, openings, etc. during construction. This will allow you to properly equip the mines, lay pipes and perform all other work. It will be much more difficult to equip the air circulation system after the completion of construction work.

Before building a bath, it is necessary to consider the location of the ventilation ducts in the bath

Varieties of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room (see photo) is used in 3 types - natural, forced (i.e. mechanical) and combined. The choice of a particular system is made taking into account factors such as:

• the size of the steam room and the dimensions of the building as a whole;
• it is possible to correctly place the exhaust pipes;
• the material from which the bath was built;
• use of the bath all year round or only in the summer season.

Warm air is lighter than cold air. Therefore, with properly equipped ventilation in the bath in the steam room, heated flows rise to the ceiling and are gradually drawn out through the vent. The air coming from the outside is immediately heated from the stove and passes into the room without creating a temperature difference. Here is the basic principle by which ventilation works in the bath in the steam room.

natural ventilation

The natural ventilation system provides air exchange due to different levels of pressure and temperature in the internal space (in the steam room) and outside, i.e. on the street. When the exhaust air exits through the outlet, the internal atmosphere in the room is discharged, creating conditions for drawing in cold air through the bottom inlet. In this case, special attention should be paid to the insulation of the bath. Otherwise, high-quality heating will not work.

Natural ventilation in a steam room in a frame bath is most often used for small buildings built from breathable material, i.e., from wood. Additional elements of the ventilation system in this case are small gaps in log walls. The main advantage of natural ventilation is its low cost.

Forced and combined ventilation

A mechanical or forced ventilation system in a bath in a steam room is necessary if:

• the total area of ​​the bath is large;
• the building was built of brick, cinder blocks, stone;
• the steam room is very large;
• exhaust pipes cannot be placed correctly;
• heavy duty oven.

Do-it-yourself forced ventilation of the steam room of the bath is mounted without any problems. It uses:

• fans;
• supply valves;
• deflectors.

Forced ventilation in the bath is suitable for large rooms

Nuance! The ventilation system in the bath in the steam room, heated with a geyser, requires the arrangement of a separate ventilation duct.

The combined ventilation system is equipped using elements of both systems described above. Fresh air enters naturally, i.e. through the lower inlet. Extraction of exhaust air masses is provided by mechanical devices.

How to choose a steam room fan

classic fan channel type not suitable for wigs. High temperature and humidity are detrimental to such devices. In the steam room, fans of a special design are used. The material for their manufacture is glass-filled polyamide. Similar Models resistant to moisture and withstand temperatures up to 130°C.

Glass fiber reinforced polyamide is an ideal material for steam room fans

The fan model is selected in accordance with the technical specifications.

It should be remembered! Ordinary room fans can only be used for the final drying and airing of the steam room after the adoption of procedures and subsequent cleaning.

If you have money, you can install a self-regulating system for ventilation in the bath in the steam room. This device will automatically provide air inlet and outlet, temperature, humidity level. It is advisable to purchase such systems only from trusted manufacturers.

Basic schemes

What can be the ventilation in the steam room of the bath, the diagram, video and other materials attached below will show clearly. You just need to choose 1 of the 4 attached options and correctly perform all the necessary work.

According to scheme A, the fresh air inlet is arranged below the stove. The outlet channel is mounted on a directly opposite wall under the ceiling.

The exhaust pipe is installed vertically. Its length is calculated so that the upper edge of the pipe rises slightly above the roof ridge. This will ensure the normal functioning of the ventilation system during strong winds.

Scheme A of the location of ventilation in the bath

Properly selected sizes of pipes for exhaust air will ensure the natural circulation of air masses. Additional adjustment is provided by the installation of dampers.

The use of scheme B is assumed only if only 1 of the walls of the steam room can be used for arranging ventilation. Air openings are located opposite the heater. The inlet hole is raised 30 cm from the finished floor. The outlet window is lowered 20 cm from the ceiling.

Scheme B Arrangement of ventilation ducts in front of the heater

The air passing through the bottom inlet is heated by the furnace and rises in the direction of the air outlet. Mechanical pulling devices are necessary for the normal functioning of the system.

According to scheme C, it is possible to provide ventilation not only for the steam room, but also underground space. The inlet hole is arranged in the wall behind the heater. It must be raised above the finished floor by 20 cm.

Scheme C with air supply under the floor of the bath

The heated supply air passes into the basement through the cracks of the leaking floor. Then it returns to the steam room and moves towards the exhaust opening. From here, the exhausted air masses go outside.

For a constantly used bath, ventilation according to scheme D can be used. In this case, the inlet is arranged at the bottom, but opposite the stove, and not behind it, as in other options. Height above the floor - 20 cm. Extraction of exhaust air is provided by means of a blower and a chimney.

In order for the ventilation in the bath in the steam room to work effectively, it is necessary to choose the right location for the stove. It is most convenient to equip it inside the steam room. If the stove is located in an adjacent room, the efficiency of the ventilation system and the heater itself will be noticeably lower.

Preparatory work

To arrange ventilation in the steam room, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• brick and/or stone;
• cement and sand;
• ventilation ducts;
• finished valves or material for their manufacture;
• a metal sheet;
• lining for lining the box;
• fixing material - nails, screws, self-tapping screws.

To work, you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• tape measure, level, plumb;
• construction mixer;
• drill or perforator;
• a set of spatulas;
• container for mixing the solution;
• technical knife;

Work is best done in special clothing. Wear gloves and a respirator if necessary.

Supply ventilation installation

The inlet channel for supplying fresh air is located in the immediate vicinity of the furnace of the sauna stove. It is desirable that the inlet is located above a sheet of metal sheathing that protects the wood from the accidental ingress of small coals.

First, you need to make a box from a suitable material. Its dimensions should exceed the dimensions of the chimney by about 20%. The outer opening of the box is located on outer wall. It is undesirable to place it in the basement.

If the firebox is located in the actual steam room, a convection box is additionally equipped. At the wall in which the air inlet is located, you need to lay out a podium of bricks placed “on edge”. They are laid out in 3 rows - under the wall, in the middle and on the edge.

The masonry for the oven is arranged to a height of 25 cm. It must be brought to a brick screen and must be blocked. In order for the newly incoming air to pass directly into the furnace, it is better not to lay the last 2 bricks. The butt is lined with bricks.

The convection box is mounted to the end. At the end, a blower is equipped. Under it is a protective substrate for the safety of the floor covering.

When the podium is completely ready, you can start installing the furnace. To evenly distribute the load, it is desirable to use a corner made of metal.

After the final installation, stone or brickwork is arranged around the furnace. To form a gap, it is moved 5-6 cm from the furnace. Next, a special screen is installed. It needs to form holes for the passage of hot air.

Installation of outflow ventilation

The outflow box is installed diametrically opposite from the inlet. It is raised above the finished floor by 30 cm. The inner area of ​​the box is approximately 1.25 m².

Through the wall, the outflow duct is led to the ceiling and an external outlet is equipped for it. You can remove the exhaust air to an adjacent room. In this way, it will be possible to warm it up without extra costs.

Outflow ventilation can be placed on top of the ceiling

To avoid accidental burns, the chimney box must be lined with a brick or stone casing. At the same time, a special hole with a door must be left below, which will be a blower. An additional hole, equipped on top, will allow you to use the chimney as a heat pump, this will create both warming up the room and proper air circulation.

How to ventilate a Russian bath

The correct ventilation device in the steam room of the Russian bath does not involve the use of any mechanical devices. Otherwise, the heated air will be expelled very quickly. Efficiency and pleasure from bathing procedures will decrease significantly.

In the Russian bath, natural ventilation is used, where the outflow of air is carried out through the window.

Therefore, the Russian bath must be carefully cleaned, ventilated and dried after each use. For ventilation, a special window is installed in the wall opposite the door. You can use a mechanical extractor. The door must be kept open for ventilation.

It is necessary to remove leaves from brooms and random objects from the beds. Then you need to wash all surfaces and dry them with towels and / or a special absorbent cloth. This will protect against the formation of mold and the reproduction of harmful microorganisms. After cleaning, airing and drying, the steam room is ready for further use.

The steam room in the Russian bath is combined with a washing room, so it needs to be dried after each use

How to warm up a Russian bath

First you need to fire up the oven. The outlet openings must be kept closed. Only input opens.

Having warmed up the room to the desired temperature, you need to open the valve of the lower air outlet pipe. This will ensure proper air circulation. The temperature will not drop.

In order to warm up the stove, it is necessary to open the valve in the stove of the Russian bath

Passing into the box from below, the heated air will gradually displace cool air masses to the outlet. When passing through the box, they will provide additional heating of the room. In parallel, the ventilation of the steam room will also take place.

If ventilation is not working properly

During the use of the steam room, it is necessary to periodically check the health of the ventilation system. With good air circulation in the steam room, it is always easy to breathe, the body heats up evenly, the temperature and humidity are maintained at the required level.

If the ventilation in the bath in the steam room was installed incorrectly or became unusable over time, signs such as:

• abundant condensation on vertical surfaces;
• mold, especially in the corners;
• putrid smell;
• uneven air heating;
• drafts;
• slow setting of the required temperature;
• excessively rapid heat loss;
• an unpleasant internal atmosphere that makes it difficult to breathe.

Mold in the steam room indicates a lack of ventilation

If at least 1 or 2 of the above factors are present, then the ventilation in the bath in the steam room is not properly equipped. Another option is clogging and / or damage to the system, the need for urgent repairs and / or thorough cleaning individual elements or ventilation system as a whole.

Clogging of ventilation ducts disrupts its operation

From the foregoing, it becomes clear that it is inexpensive and not very difficult to properly ventilate the steam room of the bath. However, this requires careful observance of all technologies. The attached video "How to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath" will help to avoid mistakes.

Do you need ventilation in a modern bath?

Do you need ventilation in the bath? This question is questionable by many people. On the one hand, sanitary standards indicate the need to update the air in any room where a person is located, but, on the other hand, ventilation can cool the bath, where it is so difficult to maintain the necessary heat. The bath is a very specific institution, and one should thoughtfully approach the solution of the problem.

Steam room ventilation

The bath includes several rooms, different in their functions. Therefore, it is important to understand whether ventilation is needed in a Russian bath.

The heart of any bath is the steam room. If we consider the Russian bath, then it provides an environment of saturated water vapor with a humidity of up to 80% and a high temperature of 60-65 ° C. The classic steam room is a small isolated room. At the same time, several people can be in it for a sufficiently long time.

People inhale oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide, which can accumulate in a closed space in the absence of fresh air. In a stagnant steam room environment, an excessive concentration of carbon dioxide, sweat, bacteria and germs occurs, accompanied by unpleasant odors.

Attention! The answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in the bath in the steam room is unambiguous - it is necessary.

The second problem is the destruction of the material of construction. The Russian bath is most often built of wood, and wood rots when exposed to moisture for a long time, especially in a confined space at high temperatures. Saturated water vapor condenses on contact with any colder surface, which causes the presence of water in the material. As a result, microorganisms that destroy wood actively develop, mold and fungi develop. If proper drying of structural elements is not ensured, then decay will quickly render the structure unusable. This problem is not limited to wood. A process with varying degrees of intensity is characteristic of any building material, incl. concrete.

An analysis of the conditions that arise during the operation of a bath steam room indicates that there is no need to doubt whether ventilation in the bath is necessary. Only the influx of fresh air will avoid sanitary problems and the destruction of the material in the steam room.

Features of other rooms

When considering whether ventilation is needed in the bath, do not think that only the steam room should be ventilated. All bath rooms are in difficult conditions.

The washing department is a constant stream of heated water, often mixed with detergents. Shower cabins can be installed here, and this causes water splashing and active wetting of structural elements. When you open the doors from the steam room to the washing room, clouds of steam rush, which condense on the walls and ceiling. In this room, the accumulation of moisture is the same acute problem as in the steam room, although the air temperature is much lower.

The dressing room plays the role of a dressing room; a furnace firebox can be located here. There are no high temperatures in this room, and the humidity may rise slightly when opening the doors to the steam room or the entrance doors when it is damp outside. A big problem is created by the furnace furnace, from which, with any chimney, the combustion products of the fuel still come out.

In more favorable conditions, there is a rest room. It provides normal temperature and humidity. However, ventilation does not interfere here either. After taking a bath procedure, you want to relax in a calm environment, and inhaling fresh air is one of the conditions for comfort.

Bath ventilation principles

Ventilation in the bath is necessary for the influx of fresh air, elimination of unpleasant odors, drying of the construction material and prevention of decay. Its arrangement is dictated by sanitary standards and technical parameters. There are no regulatory documents for private baths, therefore their owners must take into account the recommendations of specialists.

On a note! When operating the bath, you can apply the tips from the manual " Guidelines for the design of baths and bath-health complexes ”for public institutions, tk. their foundations take into account the basic requirements for comfortable operation.

This document proposes the following mode of air renewal in bath rooms:

• steam room - up to 5 times per hour;
• washing - 8-9 times per hour, and in the presence of an isolated shower - in it up to 11-12 times per hour; rest room - 2-3 times per hour.

1. There should always be fresh air in the bath, in which only the aroma of wood, medicinal herbs and a steamed broom is felt.
2. Cold air in the winter season cannot be supplied near the floor; it is better to supply it at the top, where the air mass warms up quickly.
3. Before each visit to the steam room, the environment in it should be completely updated.
4. Between bathing procedures, a good drying of all structural elements (floor, walls, ceiling, shelves) is necessary.
5. Oxygen is burned out by a red-hot stove, so its replenishment must be ensured, with the simultaneous removal of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide.
6. When arranging ventilation, it is necessary to take into account the laws of air convection, when the heated mass always rushes up, displacing the cold down.

Features of ventilation arrangement

Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced. In the first case, it is provided by the free circulation of the air mass coming from the street. The movement of air occurs due to the difference in temperature and pressure. This method is considered the most common in Russian baths. Forced ventilation requires the installation of air intake and exhaust devices. They allow you to suck in the required amount of air from the outside and direct it to the right place.

On a note! A simple and effective option for refreshing a steam room is the so-called salvo ventilation. It provides air flow through the open front door, and stale air exits through the window on the opposite wall.

Such operations should not be carried out if there are people in the steam room, but between ventilation procedures they give a quick effect. The duration of salvo ventilation is 3-5 minutes.

More complex options provide special air inlets. There are several schemes for bath ventilation with different locations of these holes:

• classic: the inlet is made near the floor at a height of 25-35 cm behind the stove, and the exit is on the opposite wall near the ceiling 30-35 cm lower;
• with a constantly working stove: the entrance is near the floor on the wall opposite the stove, and the exit is provided through the stove chimney;
• when using an exhaust fan: the entrance is behind the stove at a height of 0.3 m from the floor, and the exit is on the opposite side a little lower (20-25 cm from the floor), which ensures air circulation throughout the room;
• entrance and exit on the same wall, both equipped with fans: one opening near the floor, and the other near the ceiling.

Ventilation in the bath is necessary in all bath rooms. It will provide comfort, sanitary safety and reduce the risk of damage to the structure from moisture. When arranging the system, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations of specialists.