A well-equipped ventilation system, all other things being equal, guarantees, firstly, long term services of construction and finishing materials involved in the arrangement of the serviced premises, secondly, the comfort and safety of visiting the latter for the user. Particularly relevant is the issue of arranging a complete and sufficient effective ventilation is in the bathhouse, due to the characteristic temperature and humidity conditions and additional requirements for buildings of this kind.
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Video - Requirements for ventilation in the bathhouse
Choosing the optimal type of ventilation system for servicing a bathhouse is a topic for many hours of discussion. For example, there is natural ventilation. The costs of money, time and effort for its arrangement are minimal - work in literally comes down to drilling holes in the walls, installing boxes/pipes and valves/grids.
Ventilation valve and grille 
Ventilation grilles for baths and saunas 
However, it is impossible to use natural ventilation to service all rooms of the bathhouse. Of course, it would be possible to save money, but the disadvantage of such a solution will become obvious with the arrival of the first winter: along with the influx of fresh air from the street, cold will come in, and everyone knows the combination of frosty air with humidity - everything around will simply freeze. Therefore, natural ventilation in some rooms must be combined with others. existing options in other rooms of the bathhouse.
If the bathhouse is equipped with a washing room or even its own swimming pool, natural ventilation will definitely not cope with the maintenance of such premises - you will have to equip an exhaust system. And in general, the presence of a forced inflow/outflow of fresh air will be useful both for visitors to the bathhouse and for its premises. Recommendations regarding the optimal composition of the air exchange system are given in the table.
Table. Choosing a ventilation system for different rooms
| Room | Recommended ventilation type | Scheme | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Steam room, dressing room or relaxation room | Aeration should be understood as organized natural air exchange. The option is most optimally suited for use in a bathhouse: air enters from the bottom of the stove (for other rooms - 25-30 cm above the floor), exhaust is discharged through an opening in the upper part of the room. The work of air exchange is based on elementary physical laws: cold air from the street displaces warm air masses, which have less weight, to the top of the room. Aeration is ideal for use in rooms with high heat output. The presence of additional humidity contributes to an even more pronounced increase in the efficiency of the system. |
||
| Wash room, bathroom, room with swimming pool | The system is equipped with a fan and, if necessary, cleaning filters. Mechanical exhaust ventilation is ideal for use in the washroom, pool room and other wet and frequently visited areas of the bathhouse. Mechanical hood provides effective removal unpleasant odors and excess moisture, which makes the air in the serviced area safe and clean. It is impossible to use exhaust ventilation alone - air rarefaction is formed. To compensate for the vacuum, an air flow from the street or other rooms is arranged. Along with this, the presence supply ventilation eliminates the possibility of drafts. The supply ventilation system can be either natural or mechanical. In combination with mechanical exhaust ventilation it is more expedient to use mechanical supply system, because the possibilities of natural inflow may ultimately be insufficient to compensate for the resulting rarefaction. Mechanical supply ventilation is based on a blower fan. Additionally, it can be equipped with an air heater, which will eliminate inconvenience and solve the problems of ventilation of serviced premises during the cold season. Additionally, the supplied air can be humidified or purified using appropriate devices. A mechanical system is more complex in arrangement compared to its counterpart, which operates according to the laws of physics: in addition to fans and air ducts, the system may include additional equipment and devices (diffusers, air distribution grilles, automation equipment, noise suppressors, etc.). This provides an excellent opportunity to design an air exchange system that fully meets the user’s wishes. |
Natural ventilation is provided in vestibules, warehouses and other similar premises.
Regardless of the type of ventilation system chosen, the bathhouse must have conditions for simple ventilation. Install adjustable windows in all rooms whose location allows for this.
Video - Types of ventilation systems
Instructions for self-calculation of air exchange
An elementary formula is used for calculation:
W (required volume of fresh/exhaust air) = k (coefficient indicating the frequency of air exchange) x V (volume of the room served, determined by multiplying the width of the room by the length and height).
That is, first you must calculate the volume of each room and find the required volume indicator for it clean air(in calculations it is customary to denote Wpr, i.e. inflow) and a similar indicator of exhaust air (denoted as Wout, outflow). In this case, multiplicity factors must be taken into account. The calculated values are rounded upward - the last digit in the number must be 0 or 5.
Next, the summation of all Wpr is performed. A similar action is carried out for the found Ww. The resulting amounts are compared. If the total value of Wpr exceeds the total value of Wpr, you need to increase the exhaust volume for rooms with a minimum air exchange value, if, on the contrary, increase the inflow by the missing value. That is, at the output, the sum of all Wpr should be equal to the total value of the found Wt.
The results of the calculations will allow you to determine the optimal cross-sections of the installed air ducts and select the appropriate type of ventilation system. Thus, there will not be any special problems with calculating the volume of premises and other related data. For greater convenience of subsequent processing, enter the found values into a simple table, as in the example presented.
In the example given, the total value of Wpr is less than the sum of all found Wt by an indicator equal to 110 m3. In order for the balance to be maintained, it is necessary to ensure an influx of clean air in the missing quantity. This can only be done in the waiting room. Thus, the value of 55 m3 for the dressing room given in the table must be replaced with an indicator of 165 m3. Then the balance will be maintained.
Start calculating the air ducts to be installed and drawing up the structure of the ventilation system being installed.
The ventilation system is designed in such a way that the air moves through the installed air ducts at the following speeds:
- ≤ 5 m/s in main ducts and ≤3 m/s in existing branches – for mechanical ventilation systems;
- ≤ 1 m/sec – for air exchanges operating on a natural principle;
- 2 m/sec – for natural air exchange directly in the steam room.
When choosing the cross-section of air ducts, take into account the above indicators. As for the profile of the duct/pipe, this point is determined by the design features of the air exchange and the bath itself. For example, air ducts with a round cross-section are easier to install compared to their rectangular “counterparts,” and it is much easier to select the required connecting fittings for round air ducts.
The relationship between the diameter of the air ducts and other significant indicators is demonstrated in the following tables.
For example, we will work with round air ducts. We select the required sections according to the appropriate table, focusing on the indicators in the table Example of ventilation calculation.
The calculated air flow was 165 m3/hour. The air flow at this flow rate should move no faster than 5 m/sec. In accordance with the table above for round air ducts, we select the cross-section according to the specified data. The table value closest to ours is 221 m3/hour. The air duct cross-section is 125 mm.
Air duct with insulation 
Flexible ducts
In the same order, we determine the optimal sections for all branches of the system in the serviced premises, remembering that the air flow in them should move at a speed not exceeding 3 m/sec (in vestibules and storage rooms - 1 m/sec, in the steam room - 2 m/sec sec):
- steam room: calculated Ww is 60 m3/hour, which requires the installation of an air duct with a cross-section of 125 mm;
- shower room - Ww is 50 m3/hour, air moves at a speed of 3 m/sec, a 100 mm air duct is suitable;
- toilet - indicators are similar to the shower room;
- pantry, vestibule, etc. – indicators (except for air speed) are similar to shower and toilet.
Important! In the shower room (wash room, room with a swimming pool) there is an increased level of humidity. When determining the cross-section of the air duct for this room, it is necessary to make an adjustment towards increase (in this example - 125 mm).
For greater convenience, enter all the information received into the table. You can use the template below as an example.
Important note! In the table above, the exhaust volume exceeds the volume of incoming clean air. This happened for the reason that the sections were determined by the nearest flow rate, and the diameter of the air duct in the washing room was intentionally increased. In practice, such an approach will only be beneficial - the margin for outflow and inflow will not be superfluous.
SNiP 2.08.01-89. Residential buildings. File for download
Sanitary and epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. Sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00. File for download
Building regulations Russian Federation heating, ventilation and conditioning SNiP 41-01-2003. File for download
The cross-sectional area of the ventilation window is determined in accordance with the volume of the room served: 24 cm2 for every 1 m3.
All that remains is to deal with optimal height Ventilation hole locations:
- for the flow of fresh air - on average 25-30 cm above the floor (in the steam room - near the stove);
- for exhaust air outflow - approximately 15-20 cm below the ceiling, usually on the opposite wall to the supply wall.
Popular bath ventilation schemes
Only options for arranging ventilation in the steam room deserve special consideration - in the remaining rooms everything is done according to the standard scheme, for example, like this:
Air exchange in the steam room can be organized in accordance with 4 main schemes presented in the following image.
Scheme "a". The most popular option. The window for air flow is next to the stove, at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the floor. The incoming clean air gradually displaces the waste warm air upward to the opposite wall. There is an exhaust hole on it, approximately 15-25 cm below the ceiling.
Scheme "b". Both holes are on the same wall. The circuit will only work if you install exhaust fan. Fresh air enters through the lower hole, located in the wall opposite to the stove. The air will rush in the direction of the stove, and then, covering the space of the steam room in an arc, move to the hood and be discharged outside the bathhouse.
Scheme "c". This option is suitable for steam rooms with leaking floors. The inlet hole is located as in diagram “a”. Having warmed up in the upper part of the steam room, the air descends to the floor, passes through the gaps in the plank flooring, facilitating more efficient drying of the boards, and is then discharged through an exhaust vent, usually located in another room. Exhaust can also be carried out through a separate isolated channel.
Scheme "g". Option for baths with a constantly running stove. In this case, the exhaust function is performed by the furnace ash hole. The supply window is located under the shelf, in the wall opposite to the stove. The height of the inlet opening must correspond to the height of the furnace vent. Fresh air rushes towards the stove, displacing the air masses heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling there, the air descends and is removed from the bathhouse through the ash pan.
To ensure that the air exchange system operates as efficiently and as efficiently as possible, before starting its installation, study and remember a few simple tips.
If your bathhouse has a bathroom or even a kitchen, equip them only with exhaust ventilation - this solution will eliminate the possibility of unpleasant odors spreading to other rooms. As an alternative, you can install fresh ventilation in other rooms, and equip the bathrooms with natural exhaust - in this case, the air will move towards the bathrooms.
When calculating the performance of fans, it is recommended to reduce the total power of the supply units by 5-10% of the total capacity of the exhaust units. In this case, the exhaust air will be completely replaced by incoming air masses, and a reserve of 5-10% will compensate for the influx of air entering through windows, cracks, etc., which will allow a balance to be maintained.
In rooms with only natural ventilation, it is recommended to make opening windows - this will increase the efficiency of fresh air supply and reduce the risk of fungi, mold, rot, etc.
Important! If your bathhouse has a non-standard configuration, the design of the ventilation system will also be individual. When compiling it, the features of the composition of the premises, their design, design features and so on.
The main stages of independent installation of a ventilation system
Any ventilation system in any room is installed in approximately the same sequence. The differences are present only in the characteristics of the air duct openings and their locations, as well as the configuration of the system (mechanical, in contrast to natural, are supplemented various kinds devices).
For example, the following arrangement of ventilation elements can be used.
Or its slightly modified analogue, shown in the following image.
Recommendations regarding the choice of the location of each opening, the type of air exchange system for different rooms of the bath, as well as the procedure for determining the characteristics of ventilation elements, were discussed earlier.
Along with this, the procedure for arranging ventilation may vary depending on which design option you prefer. There are few solutions available:
- independent ventilation in each room. A simpler option. Work is limited to the installation of transoms, vents, fans and other necessary elements, if provided for by the project. Fans can be mounted both in windows and in separate ducts led outside through the wall;
- centralized system. More difficult option. Requires installation of ventilation ducts. Used mainly in private homes - in the case of a bathhouse this option will be too costly and labor-intensive;
- "hybrid" option. Some rooms are ventilated individually, others are combined into a joint system.
An appropriate option for use in a bathhouse is independent ventilation - the owner can choose the optimal characteristics of fans and other elements for each room, saving money, time and effort on carrying out the activities necessary to combine the channels into a single system.
Important! The location of some bathhouse rooms may not allow for independent supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to avoid laying ventilation ducts. Alternatively, the boxes can be placed in the attic, and ventilation holes arrange it in the ceiling or connect it with channels installed in the walls (the option is more complicated if the laying of such channels was not provided for by the project at the stage of construction of the bathhouse).
In most cases, the first option is used: ventilation pipes of the required length are led out through holes in the ceilings of the premises served and are either equipped with their own fan, if necessary (easier to implement for an untrained user, the procedure is similar to that shown in the following table), or are connected into a single circuit and connect to a common hood (may require the involvement of specialists).
Remember: maximum efficiency of the ventilation system is ensured by using the shortest and straightest air ducts possible - up to 3 m when arranging natural air exchange and up to 6 m when using electric fans.
The procedure for installing an independent ventilation system is given in the following table.
Important! The example describes instructions for arranging a mechanical ventilation system using fans. The installation procedure for natural air exchange remains almost the same: only the stages of laying wires and installing fans are excluded.
Table. Ventilation arrangement
| Work stage | Explanations |
|---|---|
| The operating procedure remains the same for the supply and exhaust openings. Only the height of their arrangement and location changes ( possible options discussed earlier), as well as the type of fans used (supply or exhaust). The characteristics of the latter are selected individually, taking into account the volume of the room served, the required speed of air movement in the air ducts, the required air exchange rate, etc. – all these points were covered in the theoretical part. We arrange the holes in the following order: - outline the center and contours. We make the markings so that the resulting diameter of the hole slightly (usually a 2-3 mm gap is made) exceeds the diameter of the pipe being installed (recommendations for choosing the diameters of air ducts were given earlier); - using a puncher we make a hole in accordance with the markings. We hold the working tool horizontally, but with a slight downward tilt; - carefully take out the cut material (a hammer and chisel will help us with this), after which we carefully clean the finished hole from dirt and dust. |
| The ventilation pipe (ventilation duct body) is placed in the prepared hole, but before that it (if mechanical/forced ventilation is planned) must be equipped with a fan. Useful recommendation! Initially, buy ready-made kits for arranging ventilation, including, in addition to related additions, a ventilation duct/pipe and a fan with a housing of the appropriate size - this way you will avoid difficulties at the assembly stage. The pipe with the fan is placed in the prepared hole, and the remaining cracks are filled with foam. |
| The fan is an electrical device, therefore, it must be connected to the network. Let's do this while the mounting foam dries (at least 10-12 hours). The procedure is standard: - the contours of the groove for the cable are cut out in the wall using a grinder. Excess material is removed using a bumper; - a hole is prepared in the wall for installing the switch box (for example, you can use a hammer drill). The box is installed (pre-read the instructions specific to your switch). The switch itself will be mounted after finishing; - the wire is laid in the groove. To fix the cable we use alabaster; - connect the wire to the switch and the fan. First, be sure to study the connection diagram recommended by the fan manufacturer in the attached instructions, because It may differ for different devices. As an example, one of the most commonly used schemes is given. |
| All that remains is to bring the entire structure into proper form. To do this we do the following: - get rid of excess dried polyurethane foam using a knife; - putty the grooves; - we install adjustable ventilation grilles on both sides of the pipe. For fastening we use self-tapping screws. If provided, at the appropriate stages of work we install additional elements(for example, air heater, filter, etc.). Each of these devices is installed individually - we first clarify these points in the manufacturer’s instructions. |
Video - Arrangement of ventilation holes
Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands - diagram
Ventilation is needed in all rooms; the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41–01–2003. But they apply only to residential, public and production premises, in which favorable conditions for humans are created. It is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and the same standard microclimate and air quality indicators must be created for everyone.
Baths have completely different tasks; they create a microclimate that is stressful for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to +60°C, in saunas more than +100°C) and high air humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, temperature and humidity indicators should vary within wide limits depending on the wishes of those being washed. Changes in microclimate parameters should be carried out as quickly as possible, and the achieved values should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between a bathhouse and ordinary premises. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothing, then this is impossible to do in bathhouses.
Illustration of the microclimate in a steam room - heat and hot steam
Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must fulfill individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and operating features. Ventilation in a bathhouse can be natural or forced; each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation – natural.
We have already found out the tasks of bathhouse ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it’s time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.
First you need to remember your physics lessons from school. Ventilation of rooms occurs due to the difference in air density outside and indoors. Heated air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave and cold air must be able to enter; inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.
On the Internet you can find statements that these holes must have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blows in the wrong direction.” Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the sizes of air inlet and outlet does not affect the performance of ventilation in any way.
Square ventilation window
If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount of cold air will enter the room, no matter what the size of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse draft occurs in the case of wind pressure or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind “drives” the air into the room; in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a “back and forth” principle. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero; the air moves a little only near the holes.
And these phenomena are clear, now let’s look at specific types natural ventilation baths Let's start with the simplest ones and end with the more complex ones.
The simplest, but also the least effective method ventilation.
In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not as we would like. Why?
Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.
- Firstly, if you open the door, the steam does not escape to the street, but to other rooms. The humidity in them increases sharply, the heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. There is no need to explain what can happen next.
- Secondly. A decrease in temperature in a steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. Actual temperature is a physical indicator, perceived temperature is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature differently depending on surrounding factors. High humidity“increases” the temperature we feel, a strong wind lowers it. So, through simple ventilation it is possible to remove only excess steam, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values within a few minutes.
- Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable microclimate indicators in the room. As soon as the doors close, the temperature and humidity rise sharply; as soon as the doors open, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.
The result is that ventilation is not a ventilation method that should be used constantly. This is a last resort; it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.
This method can be considered more successful, but it is only possible in one case - the firebox of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; entry can occur through floor cracks, a slightly open window or door. Sometimes at the bottom door leaf a special hole is made, to improve the design it is covered with a decorative lattice.
Advantages of ventilating a bathhouse with a stove.
- Ease of execution. There is no need to make special vents in the log house. Any additional hole in wooden wall does not improve its performance characteristics, and this is to put it mildly. If mistakes were made during the process of making vents and installing decorative grilles, then the risk of moisture getting on the crowns of the log house increases. It will take a very long time for the moisture to dry out, and a long stay wooden structures in a wet state has an extremely negative effect on their strength and durability of use.
- Possibility of adjusting the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is “controlled” by a damper and stove doors. You need to speed it up - the gate and the firebox door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the gate closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the damper, the microclimate in the steam room is stabilized, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.
Furnace with gate - photo
- Versatility of use. It doesn’t matter what materials the bathhouse is built from, what its dimensions and architectural features. In addition, this system allows for simple upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet hole behind the stove and the air entering the bathhouse will be slightly warmed up. The chimney still serves as the hood.
There are, of course, disadvantages, let’s name the main ones.
- Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
- Presence of “dead” zones. Air mixing throughout the entire volume does not occur; zones with drafts and zones with standing air appear.
- Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.
Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in “budget” options for baths.
For a budget steam room the best option– oven ventilation and ventilation
Ventilating a bathhouse with a stove - diagram
The optimal ventilation device for most baths.
Advantages:
Important. It is advisable to consider the ventilation device before starting the construction of the bathhouse. Solve issues with specific hole placement and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the vents no more than the height of the beam, and adjust the holes to make them longer.
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bath fan
Why is it best to provide ventilation at the construction stage?
- Firstly, making holes in an already finished structure is much more physically difficult.
Drilling a hole in a log house is a labor-intensive process
- Secondly, there is a risk that the hole will hit the dowel, especially for the upper outlet vent. It is located in close proximity to the Mauerlats rafter system, and they are fixed more often than ordinary crowns and only metal rods or pieces of building reinforcement are used as dowels.
- Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then the expensive tool will fail after “meeting” the dowel. And it will not always be possible to “reanimate” a chisel or chisel after attempts to cut through metal.
- Fourthly, the metal dowel in this place is almost impossible to cut off. You can’t get close with a grinder, you can’t use a hacksaw for metal, and you wouldn’t wish it on your enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to blow the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the wall of the bathhouse or an increase in its size? Moreover, if you have already made holes in the external and internal cladding according to its “planned” dimensions and bought ventilation grilles. "Meeting with metal dowel– a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.
Ventilation duct placement options and sizes
For all natural ventilation products there are several general rules. First, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air supply openings should be located below about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit openings should be located at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet openings are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. In what places is it recommended to install them?
It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.
Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bathhouse. This saves time and effort; in addition, it eliminates the possibility of the lower crowns of the log house getting wet. Disadvantage - in most cases, the doors are located opposite the shelves for bathing procedures; cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.
Under the shelf.
Advantages - the inlet is invisible, the flow of cold air mixes well with warm air throughout the entire volume. Disadvantage: Access to the grille for opening/closing the damper becomes more difficult. If during washing you can regulate the intensity of ventilation only using the top grill, then after ventilating the baths you need to close both. This means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.
Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed, two per each - outside and inside the steam room. After ventilation, both baths should be closed. Choose a technology for installing grilles that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden for atmospheric moisture to enter the crowns of the log house.
Behind the stove.
Inlet opening behind the stove - diagram
Most best option. Cold air from the street will hit the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed flows. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature negatively affects plastic or wooden materials decorative lattice. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet iron using thermal insulation.
No option is suitable for your specific case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.
As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice is don’t do it in the ceiling. Over-humidified air should not be vented into the attic; it will cause constant humidification. wooden elements rafter system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be vented to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the covering, why worsen the tightness of the roof covering with your own hands and at your own expense?
Opening sizes for natural ventilation
The technology for calculating the size of ventilation holes is specified in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. Main parameter ventilation system performance – frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum multiplicity value is regulated, taking into account both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within small limits, this simplifies the work of designers.
In steam rooms the situation is much more complicated - temperature and humidity indicators vary within very wide limits. In addition, the speed of air arrival/receipt in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimal air exchange rate for natural ventilation.
Some bathhouse owners are afraid of suffocating during bathing procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter There is enough air for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam; the count goes into tens of hours.
Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you close the stove gate until the wood is completely burned out, then no amount of ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if carbon monoxide no longer enters. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.
How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of a bathhouse
For example, we will take the most complex option - the external and internal cladding of the walls of the bathhouse has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.
Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its size and configuration. It is advisable that air ducts and decorative grilles be available; this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the opening and not do unnecessary work.
Step 2. Prepare a long wood drill, the working length should exceed the thickness of the wall of the bathhouse together with the outer and internal lining. Drill in the center of the drawn outline of the vent through hole from inside the steam room. The drill outlet outside the steam room will be the center of the air flow. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.
Step 3. Remove interior and outer skin in the circuit. If your bathhouse is lined with natural clapboard on both sides, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut out the boards. If used from the outside metal sheets- use a grinder.
Step 4. Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the cladding; if they are damaged, repair them. Drill through holes along the contour of the ventilation duct as close to each other as possible, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of the vent; the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.
Video - How to drill a large hole in wood
Step 5. Next you need to work with a chisel and chisel, gradually removing the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely hollow out a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. There is no need to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.
The most difficult physical work is done, you can begin installing the air duct and grilles. Don't be discouraged if it takes a lot of time to make holes; even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes per day.
How to install ducts and grilles
For air ducts, you can use galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grille according to the size of the opening; to regulate the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.
Air duct prices
air duct
Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool and carefully insert the air duct into place. To firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use polyurethane foam. Excess foam that appears should be cut off after hardening.
Step 2. If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, treat the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from getting into the wooden structures.
Step 3. Fasten the gratings; the method of fastening depends on the material of the wall cladding and sheathing.
We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo there is a grate on the outside of the bathhouse
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Check the operation of the ventilation using a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air currents move in the steam room.
The photo shows the air supply valve and checking its functionality
Experiment with natural ventilation at different damper positions, from maximum to minimum.
Video - Installation of the KPV 125 valve
Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with a Termofor stove-conditioner
Greetings, dear master. You built a house, gave birth to a son, planted a tree near the house, it’s time to think about your health. Yes, yes, about your health and your family. It's time to build a bathhouse!
How to build, from what materials, where to choose a place - you decide for yourself - you are the boss, and I will tell you about probably the most important and important part of construction - ventilation. Ideally, the calculation and organization of the ventilation system should be carried out at the construction planning stage. But in real life there can be many options:
- the bathhouse is being built, but they forgot about ventilation
- construction was completed, and then they remembered
- installation of a steam room inside the house
Building a bathhouse without ventilation is not a rare case; you should not sprinkle ashes on your head and think that you are stupider than others. Not at all, at least you remembered, and that’s already something. Adjusting air circulation is possible even if it was not provided for.
It is not advisable to rely on burst ventilation: the accumulated heat from open door does not go away, but, according to the laws of physics, turns into steam and settles in the form of condensation on the walls and floor. Hello fungus! It’s a pity, of course, because the redevelopment, and that’s what it is, will cost a pretty penny. And when in the house? Is the house brick?
- the air is enriched with oxygen
- optimal temperature is created
- removing excess moisture
- removal of accumulated carbon dioxide
The diameter of the ventilation performed affects the quality of the process: a low draft force will not allow the entire system to operate fully, which will reduce all work done to zero, and an excessively powerful draft will, on the contrary, not allow the temperature to be created optimal mode. Proper ventilation requires indentation:
- for supply air flow 10-30 cm from the floor
- for the upper hood 20-30 cm from the ceiling
Do you need a steam room?
Yes, definitely yes. This famous and very useful structure is being erected with the main goal: healing. Steamed skin allows accumulated toxins and dirt to pass through it, while simultaneously saturating the body with oxygen, and what kind of oxygen are we talking about in a tightly sealed room?
A steam room without ventilation is more like a pressure chamber with carbon dioxide; within a few minutes the unbearable heat and lack of oxygen will drive you out of the steam room. Arranging an outlet with natural drainage or forced exhaust depends on your technical capabilities and your capabilities. Main. The hood from the stove, whether gas or wood, must have a separate overpass.
Ventilation in a steam room in a Russian bath
The Russian bath differs from the sauna in the principle of operation of the steam room, the method of heating and ventilation. The bathhouse was heated “black” and “white”. In the first version, the stove was heated, the stones laid on top of the hearth were heated, the burnt coals were raked out and carried away, the heat came from the stones, and the air outflowed through a door or window. In the second option, the stove worked during the park, the smoke came out through the chimney, and excess heat also escaped through it. IN modern bath In addition to the chimney, additional exits are used.
There are many options: in the finished room, connect the steam vent outlet with existing air ducts; through other rooms, when the wiring goes inside the house, bring a separate pipe to the street by drilling a hole in the wall.
The location of the holes varies depending on the desired result: a lower hood means the temperature rises faster, a higher one means better air circulation.
Ventilation in the steam room
Inlet and outlet diameter
Basement. The steam room is ready. The only hole is Entrance door. Already good. We use it to organize supply ventilation. It’s easier to cut a hole at the bottom of the door with a jigsaw, install blinds and grilles.
Better yet, in front of the door, on the side of the steam room, build a box with outlets from sewer pipes under the stove and to the side. Use the grille with a valve – in winter time the air is colder, warming up the room will take longer.
The air flow from under the stove will rise upward, capturing heat, and an additional draft of fresh air will flow from the pipe moved to the side (in winter, you can tightly close it with a valve). Next, we cut a window to Europe. Kidding. Outside.
On the outside we mark the approximate place where the hood needs to be made. Above the ground - lucky, below the level - we remove the soil, make a dig (in order not to miss, it is better to take it wider). concrete wall or brickwork can be drilled with a special tool. It is unlikely to be found by someone other than a specialist.
As an option, rent a tool. You go to the Internet, open sites specializing in such a service, and place an order. But you and I are simple people, we will break through. A hammer drill is not a rare thing, I have one, I think you will have one too.
We go down to the basement again. I managed to sheathe the walls - no problem, we’ll remove the sheathing. On the bare wall, use a marker to mark the location where the pipe exits. Be careful when choosing the diameter! Above I have already given the calculation formula. You can take a piece of pipe and trace it around. Retreating slightly around the perimeter of the circle (the hole should ultimately be slightly larger diameter pipes), a through hole is drilled with a perforator, after 2-3 cm the next one, and so on in a circle.
Use a chisel to break the formed lintels - that’s it, the opening is ready. You take out the remains of the wall, trim the edges and walls of the tunnel, and try to push the pipe through. Happened? Cool. No - pay attention to what’s in the way, knock out the unnecessary.
When the wall is made of timber, the technology for cutting the opening is based on the same principle as on brickwork, with a small difference: instead of a chisel, a jigsaw is used. For exhaust pipe sewer pipes will not fit, galvanizing required.
We insert the section into the opening, fill the voids with insulation (glass wool, mineral wool), and sew up the walls with wood. The gap between the casing and the pipe must be foamed. We make a box. It is needed to regulate the degree and height of heating of the room. The thickness of the box corresponds to the diameter of the pipe it is connected to; the length depends on the height of the steam room. Two windows are cut out on the box, which are equipped with a blind latch. One window is located approximately twenty cm from the ceiling, the bottom one is located 50-60 cm from the floor.
When the stove is flooded, both exhaust dampers in the steam room are closed, subsequently the lower one opens first, and then, if necessary, the upper one. This way you can easily adjust the temperature right during the procedures.
Using a built-in fan will improve the flow of hot air from the room. Don’t forget about the grilles at the air duct outlet to prevent dry leaves and other debris from getting in. By the way, you need to clean your hood at least once a year.
Basta became widespread. The system has taken root due to its ease of installation and efficient heat distribution. But it’s better to install it initially, at the construction stage. The above diagram and air flow circulation device are radically different from those I described earlier in this article.
The principle of bastu is an inverted glass. As you can see, and supply air duct, and the outlet are almost at the same height - just above the floor level.
The lower pipe through which air enters the steam room originates from the street, the outlet is located behind the stove - this is actually the draft. The outlet of heated air is located strictly diagonally from the oven, located below the bench. Warm air from the stove rises, creates increased pressure under the ceiling, and in the opposite corner it cools down a little and, falling, enters the ventilation.
The main difference is that the air temperature is approximately the same across the height of the room, whereas in a Russian bath the upper bench is hotter and the lower bench is more comfortable.
When heated air masses rush to the lower point of the hood, they take heavy moist air with them and dry the floors faster.
The downside here is dependency efficient work from the strength of the wind on the street, when blown into exhaust pipe air interferes with natural outflow, moreover, it can reverse it. Then the steam room will be filled with the smell of burnt fuel, which will not allow you to get the proper result from the procedures.
Useful video about ventilation in the steam room
Baths have always been famous for their healing properties. But to obtain a healing effect, it is necessary not only to listen to the advice of doctors, but also to organize in your own bathhouse the right system ventilation.
Those who have been to classical village baths made of wood, they are unlikely to remember the presence of paired exhaust openings in such pairs. In fact, they are not there. After all, a small amount of fresh air entering the bathhouse from cracks in the floor, window or doorway, can meet the needs of 2-3 people.
But a bathhouse designed for a large capacity, and especially a brick one, must be equipped with a ventilation system to fulfill the following important points:
- the supply of fresh air, which prevents the accumulation of carbon dioxide in the steam room and preserves the health of people in the bathhouse;
- air circulation, which allows you to dry the room after bath procedures. This prevents the appearance of unpleasant odors in the bathhouse, the growth of mold fungi and helps to increase the service life of the building without the need to replace wood elements;
- uniform distribution of heated air in the steam room of the bathhouse.
Moreover, if the hood is designed correctly, it should not lead to the following unpleasant consequences:
- to a drop in temperature in the steam room during bath procedures;
- violation of the correct stratification of air by temperature - the coolest layer should be at the bottom;
- removing clean air from the steam room, not saturated with carbon dioxide.
In a steam room with good ventilation it is easy to breathe and relaxing is pleasant
How does bath ventilation work?
It is correct to provide a bathhouse ventilation system at the construction stage, because it is at this moment that you can make the hood correctly and independently with the least labor and material costs. In addition, the process of making holes in the finished structure can lead to a decrease in the strength of the walls.
Air exchange in the bath is ensured by two holes.
- The supply hole is located at the bottom and provides fresh air into the bathhouse.
- The exhaust vent is located at the top on the wall opposite the supply vent. Thanks to the hood, exhaust air is removed from the steam room. However, if the hole is located very close to the ceiling, then hot air is quickly removed from the room, which leads to a decrease in the temperature of the steam room.
This design allows you to adjust the direction of the air flow. At the moment when the bathhouse is heated, all three holes are closed. When people steam, the inlet and bottom exhaust vents are open. After bath procedures, all ventilation is open, which allows the bath to dry well.
Ventilation in the bathhouse can be mechanical. In it, the air in the steam room circulates thanks to the injection equipment. In a more complex and expensive version, the air supply process is monitored by special devices that, if necessary, start the ventilation system. The use of a mechanical hood allows you to place holes on any of the walls, as well as correct errors in organizing natural ventilation.
In any case, to ensure air exchange in the bathhouse, there are several exhaust systems that differ from each other in the location of the holes.
Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with a stove - air conditioning
Methods for installing ventilation in a bathhouse
We will describe some of the most popular and simple ways arrangement of ventilation in the steam room. They can be either using fans or carried out completely naturally.
Method 1
This is the one described above natural ventilation scheme with one supply and two outlets. The entrance hole in such a system is made in the wall immediately behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 m from the floor surface.
To connect the outlet holes to each other, a box is used, which is made from wooden planks, a corrugated pipe about one meter long is laid in it. The holes themselves are equipped with plugs that allow you to regulate air flows, as described above. In addition to plugs, you will also need grilles to prevent insects and rodents from entering the bathhouse through the ventilation.
This system is suitable for small baths.
Method 2
This is another simple and most common scheme for ventilating the bath space. In it, the inlet opening is located behind the stove just above the floor (about 0.3 m). The hood is located at the same height, but on the opposite wall and is equipped with a fan that forcibly extracts exhaust air.
Method 3
Method 3 is somewhat similar to the previous one. Only the air inlet is arranged at a height of half a meter from the heater, and the outlet is slightly above the floor (about 0.2 m). The hood is equipped with a fan.
Method 4
Method 4 is used for baths in which the steam room has only one wall facing the street. In this system, the air inlet and outlet openings are located on one wall opposite the stove. The air enters the lower hole, located at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exits into the upper one, which is located 30 cm below the ceiling and is equipped with a fan.
Clean air enters the room, encounters the furnace, heats up, rises and is directed out through the outlet.
Method 5
Method 5 is suitable for baths in which there are small gaps of half a centimeter between the floor boards. The inlet opening is located behind the stove. The cooled and exhaust air descends to the floor and exits through the cracks into the underground, where there is an exhaust hole in the basement wall connected to ventilation pipe, removing air flows above the roof.
Method 6
If the stove in your steam room is heated for the entire period of operation of the bath, then the ash can itself perform the function of ventilation, or rather, an exhaust hood. In this case, you only need a hole for air flow, which is located near the floor opposite the stove. The blower should be slightly lower than the finished floor.
Step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation
When arranging a bathhouse with ventilation, it is important to observe the following conditions:
- if the bathhouse is adjacent to a residential building, then the air flow should go in the direction from the housing to the steam room;
- the exhaust hole is connected to a box or pipe, which must be installed above the roof of the bathhouse;
- the hood should not be placed above the shelves to prevent drafts from affecting steamed people.
In general, the ventilation installation process can be described as follows.
Step 1
In selected locations, inlet and outlet openings are provided at the construction stage or prepared after construction, the cross-section of which should be 10-20 cm.
Step 2
Equipped with boxes made of metal, plastic or wood with prepared openings.
Step 3
If necessary, install an exhaust fan.
Note! For baths, it is necessary to use ventilation equipment made of heat-resistant material and with a protection class of at least IP-44.
Step 4
Mounted on the grille holes and plugs.
Step 5
The outlet is connected to a pipe that is led above the roof.
Note! In addition to ventilation of the room, it is necessary to ensure air circulation under the floor. To do this, at the construction stage, holes are made in the base on opposite sides, which are covered with bars to protect against rodents.
In these simple ways you can arrange bath ventilation, ensuring long term steam room service and a comfortable stay in it.
Video - Ventilation diagram in the bathhouse
The design of the steam room is such that it maintains a constant high temperature, and the air should be moist, saturated with water droplets. But in a closed room with such climatic conditions, mold will certainly grow, and combustion processes will also be disrupted due to the lack of oxygen, not to mention the fact that people inside will have nothing to breathe. Therefore, it is necessary to design ventilation in the bathhouse. We will talk about it in this article.
Is a ventilation system necessary?
When building a steam room, novice builders try to fit all slats and lamellas as tightly as possible, thereby ensuring the absence of temperature losses. This is actually true, but if you do not leave natural openings or artificially created outlets, then significant smoke is possible if the stove runs on wood or coal. Any fuel leaves traces of combustion. Carbon monoxide in a large concentration will lead to loss of consciousness and the possibility of death, especially if the people in the room are steamed, with unstable pressure, dilated blood vessels.
Required for the following tasks:
- creating the necessary microclimate;
- ventilation and drying of wood to prevent mold or mildew from occurring;
- removal of carbon dioxide, there are people in the steam room, so a constant supply of fresh air is necessary;
- promoting the combustion process, for which oxygen is important;
- eliminating unpleasant odors;
- preserving the slats and shelves in their original form.
The principle of operation of the ventilation system in the bathhouse
The entire ventilation network can be divided into natural, which is located in the walls, roof and foundation and is laid at the beginning of construction, and forced, which is activated only when using the steam room.
Both types work as follows: waste oxygen is displaced and the space is filled with fresh air. The flow has two ends - inflow and outflow, respectively, you need at least two holes located according to the rule: inlet hoods are lower than outflow hoods.
Another nuance of the operating principle is that all the gas is taken from where it goes. That is, if communication occurs with the street, then everything should go there. The same goes for the next room, which is also possible. If the inlet and outlet are at different temperature conditions, then the formation of a flow will not work. However, it is recommended to supply/exhaust air from the street, since even in the waiting room the air will be humid and insufficiently enriched with oxygen.
Proper ventilation in the steam room
When designing a building, you immediately need to calculate where the shafts will be located and what diameter they will be. And the holes themselves and the dampers are placed on them directly after facing with lamellas. There are 4 types:
- Finnish - 130mm inflow, 100mm exhaust.
- Swedish - 100mm inflow, 80mm exhaust.
- Russian - 100mm inflow, 100mm exhaust.
The most common solution, unfortunately, is the absence of a ventilation system.
The size of the holes directly depends on what you want to get in the end: a Russian steam room or a sauna.
Let's look at an example of a calculation. If the steam room is 3 m by 1.5 m with a height of 2.5 m, that is, approximately 10-11 m3, you need a 20 kW stove. In this case, it is better to use a natural type of air exchange - with an air inlet 10 cm from the floor at a distance of 30 cm from the stove, and a diagonal outlet under the shelves at a height of 80 cm.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account: from under the lining the valve operates only in the closed position or in the open position. It should not be adjusted, as it is made airtight, otherwise the steam will escape. Both outlet devices do not have to have the same radius, but if it is necessary to ensure more efficient and faster circulation, then the first one can be made a little larger or install two valves in different places. It is strictly forbidden to make it smaller than the supply unit. This is against safety regulations.
It is imperative to install valves on the ventilation holes, which will seal hermetically to the opening when closed - at the time of kindling and heating the steam room. In winter, these doors will be half closed, because the greater the temperature difference, the more air circulates. The hoods should be at the top, and the inflow should be at the bottom. This will allow oxygen to ventilate naturally. The most popular option today: 100 mm – inflow, 80 mm – exhaust.
Types of ventilation
Some 5 years ago, no one spoke about the ventilation system in the bathhouse; moreover, many argued that it was not needed in the bathhouse. A window is enough. Times have changed, and now everyone is in favor of ventilation in the bathhouse. There is forced and natural. The chosen option depends on the area of the steam room, climatic conditions, and also on the wishes of the owner.
Natural
It works on the difference in temperature and atmospheric pressure differences inside and outside. This is a very effective and long-used method. There is a nuance for arranging such circulation in the steam room. In the heated room itself, due to the natural laws of physics, it is difficult to provide uniform heat. Typically, the higher you go, the hotter it is, and the floors can stay quite cold. The builder’s task is to think through a system so that a draft does not blow through the feet, and unbearable heat does not accumulate on the ceiling. This can be achieved by dividing the flows into two or three hoods.
Forced
This electronic control, which depends on temperature regime. You can turn the fresh air supply on and off as desired. You can control using a digital device how many degrees should be maintained throughout the entire time of the procedure, as well as what humidity the system needs to be adjusted to.
Typically, such complexes are created for commercial purposes, so they are much more expensive than elements for natural outflow, and installation can only be carried out by specialists.
One of the main disadvantages of using electronic systems is the likelihood of leaving the fan on, which can lead to a wiring ignition and a fire.
Combined
When purchasing an electrical device, make sure that they have maximum protection for all wires and electronics from moisture.
How to make ventilation in a bathhouse through special vents
These are gratings made in the walls at the level of the floor (20 cm from it) and the ceiling. In this case, you should achieve the maximum distance from each other; this can be achieved if you mount them diagonally, for example, install one between the door and the stove, the second on the opposite wall.
Elements for installing a circulation system, as well as chimneys and tanks for a Russian steam room, can be ordered from Ferrum distributors, who are represented throughout Russia. A wide selection and quality of products will help you build a bath complex with your own hands using Ferrum products. can be viewed on the website.
Where to place the cold air vent
It is located below. You can create it in the wall, but then at the design stage it is necessary to lay a pipe or shaft that will lead inside. It should be taken into account that fresh air will come from the adjacent room, and, therefore, it should not go out into the street, but into the same room. There is a minus - usually the shelves are installed opposite entrance structure, and the circulation is felt by everyone present.
Another option involves installing a vent under the sun loungers. In many ways, this is the optimal location - it doesn’t show through, doesn’t spoil appearance. But it can be difficult to reach it in order to adjust the position of the damper. In such cases, during the bath procedure, the upper outflow doors are moved, and then both are opened for ventilation.
And another common and winning option is to place the inflow behind the stove. This simultaneously promotes circulation and heating of the coals. But there are several “buts” - sometimes the stove is installed in a wall, then there is simply no way to organize a damper there. And one more thing - due to the intense heat, plastic doors will melt here and wooden ones may start to catch fire, so only metal ones will do.
The output outflow is simpler; it can be mounted:
- in the ceiling, but then you will have to make an additional box for outlet through the roof, because if the wet steam is in the attic, they will rot wooden rafters;
- in the wall - the best option; it is laid at the time of construction of the building.
How to make ventilation in a steam bath: hole sizes
The exact size of the vent depends on humidity, temperature differences, minimum and maximum values. Experience suggests that the most optimal parameters are 10-15 cm; if desired, you can increase the outflow diameter, but flow-through systems cannot be larger.
In this case, it is necessary to install dampers. It is with their help that you will achieve the required radius when weather conditions change
A common misconception is that a person does not have enough oxygen to breathe if the supply is too small. This is not true. To an ordinary person One cubic meter of air is enough for 1.5 hours.
Floor ventilation device
Why is this important: a number of factors influence a wooden floor covering; moisture comes from below, from the soil and foundation, and from above from steam. Plus condensation accumulates. Such conditions are favorable for the onset of rotting and for the spread of fungi and mold.
Installing vents under the floorboards is considered the most effective. In this case, there is no draft and the system can be used during bath procedures. Another plus is that ventilation occurs as if from the inside. That is, when airing, the upper part dries flooring, and when the hood is operating, the lower one.
To make this as productive as possible, when installing a drain for water from the steam room, move it to the side so that moisture does not spread under the floorboards.
Ventilation of the bathhouse foundation
If you already take care of this when laying the foundation, then you will not have rot and mold in the building. Vents with a diameter of 110 mm or more should be installed on all four sides. This will ensure acceptable circulation even if the bath complex is located in the middle of other buildings. It is best to lay these pipes opposite each other.
Ventilation of various auxiliary rooms
The remaining rooms should also have their own circulation.
Attic
A gable window is not enough, as steam often enters this space and can have a negative impact on the rafters. It is optimal to arrange the inflow under the roof canopy, and the outflow at the ridge. So the flows will pass from bottom to top from both sides.
Washing
Most often used to organize air exchange forced ventilation, which directs the flow towards the vestibule.
Ground floor
Owners of private houses can use the basement to install a bathhouse. This is possible, but it requires costs. Now the integrity of the entire house depends on the safety and efficiency of the circulation system. Already at the design stage of the building, it is necessary to provide for the distance between the walls and the insulation, otherwise condensation from the temperature difference will accumulate on the surface.
It is necessary to create forced ventilation, since natural ventilation cannot be provided due to the impossibility of installation near the floor (after all, it is located underground). We recommend entrusting this issue to professionals.
Shower room
Taking into account the fact that in the remaining rooms there is already an inflow and outflow of oxygen, here it is only enough to design the air flow from fans in the ceiling or at the top of the wall so that unpleasant odors dampness came out. The same should be done if the bathhouse complex has a toilet.
Waiting room
Here you should also take special care of the circulation of air flows, since due to the close proximity to the steam room, a strong temperature difference and condensation forms on the walls in the room. The supply and exhaust option is suitable in the same way. You can also install windows that allow for quick ventilation.
How to arrange ventilation in a bathhouse and steam room - calculation of the scheme
We have already mentioned the standard value: 1 cubic meter of space requires 24 cubic centimeters of bends. When choosing pipes, they often choose pipeline pipes - they are inexpensive and effective, but we recommend assembling such a system from Ferrum stainless chimneys; they have a long service life and do not deteriorate from constant interaction with moisture. The standard diameter is 10 centimeters. So, the cross-sectional area is 78.5 cm2. One such box is enough for 3.27 m3 of room volume.
We calculate the number of cubic meters. Let's assume that the steam room has dimensions of 2 by 2 m2, the ceilings are also 2 m high. Multiply everything, we get 8 m3. Divide this by 3.27 = 2.45. Round up to three. As a result, you need to organize 3 boxes with a diameter of 10 cm for the entire steam room.
Ventilation device
There are several solutions:
- The location of the window next to the stove or under it. There should be at least 25-35 cm above the floor. In this case, the flow moves below, then rises along the opposite wall.
- Both holes are on the same surface, which is not recommended, but does occur. Then be sure to install a fan on the hood. This is true when the steam room has only one wall facing the street, and the rest are adjacent to residential areas.
- Gaps in the flooring, if you have a multi-layer leaky floor, can attract air, let it pass into the space under the covering, and then return it back up again. This ensures good ventilation of the floorboards.
- If the inflow is located opposite the stove, then it will only work if the heating is working.
All these types are presented schematically in the picture:
In the article we told you how to properly make ventilation in a bathhouse, showed diagrams and explained the structure of the steam room. Design your own bath complex together with high-quality products from Ferrum. On the website you will find chimneys and components for arranging a bathhouse. Soak up the fun with Ferrum.
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