Experience with titebond veneer adhesive. Glue for wood Titebond: types and nuances of application. Characteristics of Titebond III Adhesive

Titebond® II Premium Wood Glue.

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The well-known wood adhesive Titebond has earned a reputation as one of the most quality materials used for gluing wood. Application innovative technologies in the development of a unique composition, it made it possible to create a sticky substance with which you can produce Various types works.

Types

There are about 25 types of Titebond adhesives that are successfully used in industrial applications. The most common universal moisture-resistant compositions, consisting of one component. They are used for gluing wood.

Distinguish:

• II Premium. The structure differs in moisture resistance, elasticity, immunity to solvents.
• Original Wood Glue. The composition has a high hardness, non-plastic.
• Glue Titebond 3. Contains no chemical solvents.

Depending on the purpose and conditions of use, one or another composition is selected.

Peculiarities

Titebond glue is designed for professional use. However, subject to the instructions, it can be used in everyday life.

Depending on the type of substance, the composition of the components also differs. Among the main components are aliphatic resin, synthetic rubber, polymers, polyurethane, protein, water. The standard package contains 473 ml of the substance.

When working with glue, it is important to observe temperature regime, humidity parameters, which are indicated on the manufacturer's packaging.

It should be noted that during hardening, the adhesive emulsion forms a film beige colour. The adhesive can be easily removed from the treated surface before it dries. After that, you will have to use improvised means.

Characteristic

Depending on the type of composition, adhesive substance Titebond (to a greater or lesser extent) has the following characteristics:

• has water resistance;
• provides high bond strength;
• has resistance to high temperatures(up to 50 degrees above zero);
• does not break down under the influence of chemicals;
• does not perceive acoustic vibrations;
• does not contain abrasive components, and, therefore, does not spoil the tools;
• the composition of the substance contains toxic components;
• does not break down when frozen;
• flammable at 100 degrees.

Among other things, Titebond 3 Universal Adhesive has the following properties:

• environmental friendliness;
• suitable for low temperature work.

Knowledge of the main characteristics of the composition allows you to get best quality without extra costs.

Scope of application

Glue II Premium used for connecting wooden joints, gluing paper material, laminate, plywood, chipboard, veneer. The substance is used to repair street wooden furniture. They can glue cutting boards for cooking food.

Original Wood Glue used for the construction and repair of wooden musical instruments.

Titebond 3 used for joining veneer, plywood, wood, plastics, chipboard. The tool is used for both internal and external construction works. Due to the harmlessness of the composition, the substance can be used in Food Industry. Glue is not used to connect surfaces that are under water.

Before applying the substance to the surface, it must be stirred. It should be remembered that the composition completely hardens in 10-20 minutes. Therefore, it must be prepared before starting work. For a tighter adhesion of the surface, it can be held under pressure for some time.

All work with glue must be carried out in protective equipment. For this, special gloves and goggles are used. If the product gets on the skin or mucous membranes, it should be washed off with plenty of water, and if necessary, you should consult a specialist. The room must be well ventilated. Air humidity should not exceed the established norms.

The shelf life of the waterproof adhesive is 2 years from the date of opening the package. It should be stored at room temperature. Expired glue is not recommended.

I will describe, perhaps, the entire technology of finishing.
Actually the box should be well polished. Well means not smoothly, but evenly. After finishing in the incident light, any, even the most insignificant irregularities, are visible. All cavities, screws, seams must be carefully puttied and sanded. As a putty, I use epoxy glue (mandatory production in Dzerzhinsk) with the addition of wood dust from grinding, a durable waterproof substance is obtained, however, it has good adhesion (adhesion) with PVA glue. I emphasize once again - the quality of the finished surface largely depends on the stage of preliminary grinding.
I grind with an eccentric circular grinder with sandpapers, first 80, then 120. I collect dust in a jar for future generations (see the preparation of putty).
Veneer sticking. A responsible operation, for starters, it’s a good idea to practice on cats. I cut out blanks with an allowance of about 20 mm with a wallpaper knife. I follow the pattern of wood so that the texture of the two columns is not very different. I start veneering with the side panels, then top and bottom (bottom, of course, optional), front - last.
Actually I glue the veneer with PVA. Preferably imported. Slightly, just a little, I dilute with water. I coat the veneer (with a thin layer), then the wall of the box - with a thicker layer. Now important point- you need to wait until the glue dries - it will lose its whitish color. Do not be afraid to overdry, the main thing is not to underdry. I put the veneer on the wall and iron it for a long time and hard with a not very hot iron. The temperature must be determined experimentally. On a scoop iron, I set the thermostat to position 2. The main thing is that the glue should not boil. Special attention gluing veneer near the edges of the panel - there are the greatest loads during operation.
Typically, the process of pasting a panel with a size of 1200x350x300 takes about 40 minutes. Immediately after that, carefully cut off the allowances and grind what could not be cut off.
After veneering, you need to let the object rest for about a day - the stress in the glue line will be removed, in general, everything will settle down.
We grind again. Now not only exactly, but also smoothly. First, lightly and carefully with sandpaper 80. Then 120, 180, 240. Then the surface is slightly moistened with water, dried and sanded with sandpaper 320. Yes, I forgot, if the veneer is cracked in some places, you need to putty the cracks. After grinding the surface once again better with hands don't scratch.
Primer. 2 ways - fast and "correct". Quick - diluted nitrolac type NTs. Cheap and cheerful. But it stinks. "Correct" - with epoxy glue, which is rubbed into the veneer with a cloth swab. Perhaps, after the “correct” primer, you don’t want a piano coating, the surface turns out to be very even nothing.
After priming, it is necessary to remove all the dust that has stuck to the varnish. I do it by looping. As a cycle I use the blade of a wallpaper knife.
Can be varnished. Suitable for this are alkyd and polyurethane varnishes. Also appearing in Lately water-polymer varnishes. I use just such firms Backs, Sweden. Absolutely odorless, drying time 2 hours. From alkyd good varnishes at Tikkurila, series Unika-super. The varnish is applied in a thin layer. Each layer does not dry completely, alkyd - about 5 hours, water - 1 hour, then the next layer. Depending on the quality of the veneer, from 5 to 9 such layers may be needed. The last layer dries longer so that it does not scratch from turning the column from side to side. Lacquered surface put only on a clean soft cloth.
After all surfaces are varnished, an exposure of 2 ... 3 days is made so that the varnish hardens.
Can be sanded. We start with the skin 400. Be sure to use water, otherwise the skin will clog after 6 microseconds. We increase the skin number to 600, then 1000, 1200. The sanded surface should be perfectly smooth, without areas of unpolished varnish and scratches.
Polishing. I used Anti-scratch paste for cars, but others can be made from car cosmetics without wax. This stage is the least time-consuming, if everything is well prepared. I cut out a felt circle, glued a circle from a grinder to it, you sculpt this design to a grinder, speed to the maximum, a mirror as a result.
WARNING. Technology is not for the faint of heart. It can take 2 weeks to finish one column (if done only in the evenings). But the result, IMHO, is worth it.
Ehhh, I love working with wood. Much more than writing about it

May I add my two cents :) ?

Also used ironing technology. I puttyed with epoxy with wood dust, applied and dried PVA in the same way as described in post 6.
Since I did it almost for the first time, I almost ruined it. The fact is that when sticking pieces of veneer that are small in size (such as finishing the ends of shelves), the expansion of the veneer when overheated is not so noticeable. But large pieces behave quite differently. Since the PVA, although it dries to a transparent state before the sticker, still remains slightly wet, when overheated, the veneer begins to swell from this moisture, warp and peel off from the strongly melted glue. I almost got burned out on this. At first I tried it on small pieces of veneer - just a song. And as I moved on to pasting the column, it didn’t work out that way. Eventually found the following optimal mode. I used a Moulinex iron with a power of 1400 watts. The temperature regulator set no more than one point, even less, in general, the iron did not hiss when I tried it. With an iron of a different power, you need to choose a different mode (which is why I brought the power of the iron). First, I ironed the veneer in the middle of the column wall, along the fibers, and then, gradually from the middle, I ironed it to the edges in both directions.
Here are my five cents. And this veneer is good: if you make smooth chamfers on the front panel, then you can smooth it along the fibers with a radius of curvature of approximately 1 centimeter. I myself made straight bevels, since I did everything manually without machines in the kitchen - a jigsaw, planer, file, sandpaper, eyes and patience (I will not repeat this feat again). But then I tried it on a round stick - everything worked out.

Well, the joint is still visible there, but from a very small distance. And to achieve invisibility is possible only by the selection of veneer. For example, the top and front panel are veneered with one piece of veneer, so that the texture matches almost completely, and the illusion of “one piece of wood” is created. Well, plus polishing, of course. However, not everyone likes it, some prefer to glue the sides and front with veneer different breeds. It's beautiful too.

Black tape. Is this PVC electrical tape in Russian?
Aha!

I glued the veneer in quite large quantities, though on the door. The technology is a little cheaper - the veneer is not placed in a joint, but in a small overlap (3-7 mm). It is desirable to combine each veneer sheet along the longitudinal pattern of the tree - more beautiful. After drying, PVA is laid out 2 sheets. Iron from the middle to the edges. The veneer should not rustle in well-glued places when you run your finger over it. The joint is ironed so that the top sheet is broken and glued with an edge on top. Next, the protruding joints are removed with an emery wheel.

PVA should have the consistency of thick kefir and, when dried, form an elastic film without crystalline and chalk-like inclusions.

After all, it turns out an overlap and the end will be visible. "
First, the side panels are veneered (veneered), then the front, then the top and bottom.
Visually, the front will hide the ends of the side ones.
Also the top - the tops of the side ones.
When sanding, 0.5 -0.6 mm veneer sheets will completely merge with perpendicular ones.

Veneer of valuable species of wood is used for cladding, as well as decorative film"under the tree" on a self-adhesive basis or without it. To veneer the doors with veneer, they need to be prepared - thoroughly cleaned sandpaper. Then a piece of veneer of the right size and pattern is selected, after which a thin layer of glue (carpentry, casein or PVA) is applied to the surface of the door and veneer. After applying the glue, a piece of veneer is pressed tightly over the entire glued surface to the door and left in this form until the glue is completely dry. Excess veneer protruding beyond the edges of the door surface is cut off with a sharp knife, and the cut point is cleaned with fine emery cloth. In order to more clearly reveal the wood pattern on the veneer, the surface veneered in this way should also be cleaned with a finely abrasive sandpaper and varnished or wiped with a solution. natural wax in turpentine. After the coating dries well, it must be sanded again and re-coated, and repeat this 3-4 times.

Well, yes, iron. The surface on which the veneer is glued is processed with PVA, dried, processed again, dried, applied veneer, welded with an iron. BUT: the veneer should not be thick, no more than 1 mm, otherwise it is difficult to warm it up.
And let Sergey tell about the lapping hammer - I never did it.

I recommend using Homakol instead of PVA, the quality is much higher, although I have not seen it in a container of less than 5 kg. If desired, it can be tinted. at home, it is possible to veneer the surface with high quality only with carpentry glue with a lapping hammer. I think it is somewhat unreasonable to veneer such planes with an iron, the quality

A week ago I finished the veneer and varnish on my backhorns and I will share how it was. Since the veneer is already glued, as I understand it, I will move on to the next step.
Filling Sealing and Smoothing Sealer for wood products.) It absorbs
into the veneer and makes the surface even. After drying, it takes 1-2 hours to sand until the natural color of the veneer appears. The sealer lifts the pile that you also sanded. Skin from 300-
400 numbers. Then a second layer of Siler with the same sequence.
But if you liked the color of the veneer under the Siler, then go over the sanding without strong pressure and the color will remain. The Siler layer is sanded very easily. The surface after processing is smooth and velvety.
Try all the steps first on a separate veneer board.
I used varnish for yachts. I applied it with a brush. I painted it so that the light would fall on the surface to be painted at an angle - adhering hairs are visible and so on. rubbish. The hardened layer of varnish is sanded and the next one is applied.
2-3 layers. But alas, it is very difficult to protect yourself from dust. Good luck to you
Felix

and varnish is no longer required? drying time 4 hours.
actually, I myself tend to http://www.vivacolor.ru/production/varnish/olympia/ . Or will there be any other suggestions?
Simpl.K

I do so.
If I need gloss, I take shellac. I paint, polish, paint, polish and so after 8-10 times the surface becomes like a Stradivari violin.
If you just need a matte surface, I take oil from Ikea (based on flaxseed), moisten a cloth in it and rub the product 2-3 times and that’s it, no drips and the surface is protected, and it’s inexpensive.
it is written on my oil, the drying time is 3 hours before the next coating, before using the thing 24 hours, there is an instruction in Russian on the bank.
oil is http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...roductId=62143
only there is some kind of price tag not surazny, I took
http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...roductId=62143
after the oil, nothing needs to be done, rubbed with a cloth and that's it, then after a year or two rubbed it again, etc.
oil it makes the wood a little darker and clearly highlights the structure of the fibers. and the varnish probably will not stick, the oil is FAT.

Yuri_Elizarov

I did it as follows - I didn’t glue the veneer, I just processed birch plywood (it was originally sanded). treated with zip-guard materials (USA, polyester), first with sandpaper 400, then stain, dries, again with sandpaper 400, the pile was removed. moreover, when removing the layer, the structure of the fibers appears and darker places can be lightened (remove more or less). vacuumed and a layer of varnish, sandpaper 600 and so on 3 times. Everything is fine. looks great for a birch, but the tree ideally needs something else.
Rostislav

High quality glue Titebond Cold Press for Veneer– economic alternative to contact adhesive. It is designed for large scale bonding of veneer to flat surfaces. Specially formulated for cold pressing veneer to solid wood, chipboard, MDF, plywood and other porous materials. This is an adhesive with a moderate curing speed, a transparent adhesive line. The adhesive does not contain any of the harmful or aggressive fumes found in most contact adhesives. The adhesive prevents seepage through coarse pore wood veneer without backing.

Benefits of Titebond Cold Press for Veneer:

• Economical alternative to contact adhesive;
• Minimizes seepage through veneer;
• Moderate curing speed;
• No harmful secretions;
• Safe, non-flammable.

Packing:

Art. 5176 - 3.8 l

Physical properties

• Estimated level of harmful volatile components: 2.0 g/l
• Condition: Liquid
• Specific gravity: 1.10 kg/l
• Colour: Tan
• Minimum temperature: 10°C (for glue, air and glued materials)
• Dry film: dark brown
• Dry residue: 42%
• Stability in freeze/thaw cycles: Stable
• Viscosity 4500 cps pH: 4.9

Bond strength ASTM D 905 (on hard maple)

Applications

Directions for use

Application temperature: above 10°С

Working open time: 15 minutes (21°C/50% RH)

General working time: 15-20 minutes (21°C/50% RH)

Minimum consumption: about 160 g/m2

Pressing pressure: 7 – 17.5 kg/m2 depending on the material

Application method: for a more reliable coating, mechanical glue is recommended

Cleaning: soft cloth while the glue is fresh. Dried adhesive is removed mechanically and by stripping.

Titebond Cold Press for Veneer is specifically designed for bonding veneer and is not suitable for other types of assembly. It is not recommended for outdoor use or where moisture is expected. The adhesive must not be used when the temperatures of the adhesive, the materials to be bonded, and environment below 10°C. Freezing does not affect the quality of the adhesive, but may cause it to thicken. Stirring returns the product to its original state. Read the safety data sheet before use. Note: Stir the product before use to ensure it is homogeneous. Do not allow the adhesive to freeze.

Carefully: Irritating to eyes and skin. Contains oxydipropyl dibenzoate. Do not swallow. Avoid contact with eyes or skin. First Aid: If swallowed, do not induce vomiting, seek medical advice. In case of contact with eyes, rinse with water for 15 minutes. Wash affected areas of skin with soap and water. If eye or skin irritation persists, seek medical attention. For more information, please refer to the safety data sheet. Keep away from children!

Best before date. 12 months in original packaging at 22°C

professional kpour Titebond Cold Press Veneer carpentry 3.8l M00008095

Titebond Cold Press for Veneer high quality adhesive is an economical alternative to contact adhesive.
It is designed for large scale bonding of veneers to flat surfaces.
The adhesive is specially formulated for cold pressing veneer to solid wood, chipboard, MDF, plywood and other porous materials.
This is an adhesive with a moderate curing speed, a transparent adhesive line.
Interior decoration and renovation
Gluing wood at home
Industrial wood bonding (D2 - D4)
Production of joinery and building products for the interior
Furniture manufacture

Economical alternative to contact adhesive;
Minimizes seepage through veneer;
Moderate curing speed;
No harmful secretions;
Safe, non-flammable.

The adhesive does not contain any of the harmful or aggressive fumes found in most contact adhesives.
The adhesive prevents seepage through coarse pore wood veneer without backing.
Titebond Cold Press for Veneer is specifically designed for bonding veneer and is not suitable for other types of assembly.

It is not recommended for outdoor use or where moisture is expected.
The adhesive must not be used when the temperatures of the adhesive, the materials to be bonded, and the environment are below 10°C.
Freezing does not affect the quality of the adhesive, but may cause it to thicken.
Stirring returns the product to its original state.
Read the safety data sheet before use.
Note: Stir the product before use to ensure it is homogeneous. Do not allow the adhesive to freeze.

Physical properties:
Estimated level of harmful volatile components: 2.0 g/l
Condition: Liquid
Specific gravity: 1.10 kg/l
Colour: Tan
Minimum temperature: 10°C (for glue, air and glued materials)
Dry film: dark brown
Dry residue: 42%
Stability in freeze/thaw cycles: Stable
Viscosity 4500 mPa*s
pH: 4.9

Directions for use:
Application temperature: above 10°C
Working open time: 15 minutes (21°C/50% RH)
Total working time: 15-20 minutes (21°C/50% RH)
Minimum consumption: about 160 g/m2
Pressing pressure: 7 - 17.5 kg/m2 depending on the material
Method of application: for a more reliable coating, mechanical glue spread is recommended
Cleaning: Soft cloth while adhesive is fresh. Dried adhesive is removed mechanically and by stripping.

Caution: Irritating to eyes and skin. Contains oxydipropyl dibenzoate. Do not swallow. Avoid contact with eyes or skin. First Aid: If swallowed, do not induce vomiting, seek medical advice. In case of contact with eyes, rinse with water for 15 minutes. Wash affected areas of skin with soap and water. If eye or skin irritation persists, seek medical attention. For more information, please refer to the safety data sheet. Keep away from children!
Best before date. 12 months in original packaging at 22°C

Franklin International (USA) has been a recognized world leader in the development and production of adhesives and sealants for 70 years. Franklin International has achieved a strong position in the market and professional recognition due to the quality of the adhesive, continuous work with customers and a flexible pricing policy.

Recommendation "Arsenal Master" :
We recommend to buy, we will deliver throughout Russia.

View in the catalog with prices