The composition of concrete for the manufacture of countertops. Making a concrete countertop with your own hands. Countertop Finishing - How to Sand and Polish

Worktops made of MDF and chipboard have gained great popularity. This is due to their low cost, visual appeal and ease of installation. However, they are short-lived.

Concrete countertop for modern kitchen

Therefore, a concrete countertop is much more practical. They are more durable and such a design can be made with my own hands.

Interesting and affordable option- concrete countertop

Concrete countertop is durable, price and uniqueness. If the recommendations are followed during the manufacture of the structure, then a reliable and durable product will be obtained. Concrete is a material that is practically not affected by external negative influences.

Uncoated concrete countertop can be used in the living room, bedroom or office

The financial costs are small. Externally, the product is similar to a marble countertop. And if it is necessary to implement original interior, it is recommended to make a similar design. It will turn out in a single copy, made taking into account individual parameters.

Do-it-yourself concrete countertop is an original, inexpensive, stylish product that will decorate your kitchen

For decor concrete slab Various items are suitable, including coins, glass, social tape with LEDs. When the material hardens, all details of the decor will be exposed to the liquid. Therefore, choose moisture resistant elements.

In the process of making concrete mortar, you can add decorative elements to your taste.

If you plan to decode with photographs, they are first sealed in a special film. Because key benefits concrete countertops are:

1. long service life;
2. practicality, reliability;
3. the ability to choose an individual design;
4. small financial costs;
5. you can do it yourself.

A concrete kitchen worktop can be restored and can be sanded and topped with a fresh coat of protective agent, after which the concrete worktop will look like new

We decide on the design and construction: (what types of products are there, what to choose depending on the needs, what is easier and what is more difficult to manufacture, etc.)

Such arrangement of the kitchen solves a number of problems at once: durability, price and uniqueness.

There are several ways to work with concrete design. They are reflected in the table.

The described options for decorating concrete countertops will allow you to create an original and high-quality ensemble.

When designing a product, it is important to consider the dimensions of the future countertop, if the weight in ready-made will be large enough - it is worth dividing the product into several parts

Completion of the design can be done in several ways.

1. Milk from cement. On the vertical part, streaks and spots of a whitish hue are obtained.
2. Deep sanding. The surface structure is granular. Quartz grains are visible.

The main advantage of a concrete countertop is that it will be quite powerful, strong, durable work surface with a fairly unique appearance.

To increase the strength of the structure, it is recommended to place a reinforcing metal frame in the solution. Therefore, steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm should be prepared. A mesh will subsequently be made from it. For this, a knitting wire is used. To fix the frame, take self-tapping screws.

The solution is poured into the formwork. It will require a sheet of plywood that is resistant to moisture with a minimum thickness of 12 cm. It will become the basis. Suitable laminated chipboard.

To fill the countertops, it is quite possible to use ready-made building mixtures or make the mixture yourself

Choose only materials with high strength. If there is even a slight curvature, this will affect the concrete structure.

To get a concrete countertop with required thickness you need to use boards having a cross section of 50 × 30 mm. And several timber beams with dimensions of 50 × 50 mm. If you plan to install a sink in the product, then you should make a hole for the mixer. Be sure to purchase a suitable plastic pipe.

To give the countertop a spectacular appearance, you can also use pre-fired cullet, including multi-colored

Required Tools

To make a concrete countertop, you will need tools and fixtures

To make a concrete structure with your own hands, you should prepare the required tools:

1. shovel;
2. putty knife;
3. buckets;
4. Master OK;
5. a special mixer if you plan to mix a small volume. or a concrete mixer for large dimensions of work.

To assemble the formwork, you need to use a screwdriver and a saw. Place pliers, a pencil, a special level and a ruler nearby. To measure the parameters of the future product, you need a tape measure.

Manufacturing process: step by step instructions

Detailed photo instructions for making countertops

Making a concrete countertop involves following these steps:

1. Creating a drawing. Definitely required. Helps to accurately design. Therefore, it is important to carefully measure the space where it is planned to install the product with a countertop. If you plan to place it in a corner, you need to align it at 90 degrees. Then it will be easier to install the structure, and the work itself will turn out to be of better quality. Use a tape measure to measure space.

   

   An example of a drawing of a concrete worktop for a kitchen with a built-in sink and hob

2. Formwork preparation. It is necessary to install a sheet of plywood on a horizontal surface, always flat. Transfer the data printed on the drawing to the plywood surface. Set the boards on edge along the edges. The concrete mortar will exert strong pressure on the formwork walls. That's why it's important to be strong. To do this, use bars or metal corners. The first option is fixed at the corners of the product.

   

   Formwork for pouring concrete countertops

3. Construction of a hole for a sink. If it is required. The course of work depends on the model of the sink. If this is an overhead option, then you should take the sink and lay it upside down on a sheet and stroke along the side. Then measure the width of the side. With an embedded model, an outline should be applied along the edge. Bars are installed along the lines obtained, which are subsequently fixed with self-tapping screws.
4. Construction of a reinforcing frame. It has the form of a grid, the cells of which have a size of 25x25 mm. From the sheet and from the edges you need to retreat 25 mm. Lay a polyethylene film in the formwork. Bring its edges to the board. Remove all wrinkles. The film should lie evenly.

   

   Increasing the load-bearing capacity with a steel frame

5. Installation work with a supporting structure. The frame is carried out separately, after which it is inserted in place or assembled directly in the formwork. For fixing, choose self-tapping screws. Installation height is 25 mm. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the plywood sheet over the entire area, adhering to a distance of 25 mm. To align the hats, use a ruler and a level. After you can screw the pieces of wire to the screws. At the intersections, everything is fastened with a knitting wire material.

   

   The installation of the supporting structure can be done separately, and then installed in place

6. Joint processing. For this, a sealant is used. Carefully process everything so that the cracks and gaps are filled.

   

   Processing joints between formwork elements with sealant

7. Concreting. Concrete can be poured in several ways. In the first case, the formwork is completely covered. In the second method, concreting occurs in layers. If you choose the first option, you need to mix cement with clean river sand, coarse aggregate like marble chips and water in a ratio of 1:2:4:0.5, respectively. First, the liquid and cement are combined until the so-called milk is formed. Then the rest of the ingredients come in. It is important to mix everything thoroughly.

   

   Pouring and uniform distribution of concrete over the entire area of ​​the formwork

8. Preparation of a solution for the front layer. You will need a solution in which there is fine sand without fillers. Water is added a little less than in the previous version. If you are not sure that you will get a quality solution, it is better to purchase a ready-made mixture. The resulting mass is poured into half or a third of the total height of the formwork. Don't wait for it to dry.
9. Main layer. After half an hour, you can proceed to this stage. After pouring, the surface is covered with a film. Leave it for a day. Then remove, and place a few pieces of wet cloth on top. After 2 days, the formwork is disassembled.

   

   Direct pouring can be done in two ways: layer by layer and a single monolith

10. If the decor was not applied, then front side polished. Instead of a grinder, take grinder. First take a coarse-grained wheel, then change to a fine-grained one. You can polish the surface with a felt circle.

    

    Grinding a concrete slab for the kitchen

The final stage - decoration

To make the countertop look like marble, granite or have any other shade other than gray, a special pigment (color) is added to the mixture

To increase the originality of the product, the concrete surface can be decorated. This should be done at the stage of pouring the mixture. The front part should be framed correctly and harmoniously.

To give a marble spill, it is necessary to displace the dye with water, and then add to the solution

Most often, broken glass and beads are used for decoration. You can make a wire pattern. All this is laid on a film of polyethylene.

Decorative elements in the form of coins, shells, pebbles must be placed at the bottom of the formwork before pouring the solution into the mold and fixed with transparent glue

The decor is fixed with glue. This will keep the elements in place. You can use photographs that are pre-wrapped with a special moisture-resistant film.

A countertop made from concrete mortar can look very original.

Jamie Gaokas' project began with the purchase of a book on how kitchen utensils are made. do-it-yourself concrete countertop. At first, the master made them for himself, then for friends, and then he started his own business. The master class is conducted by Jamie himself.

First of all, the master asks you to be patient, since it takes about a month from the start of production to the complete installation. During this time you can do complete renovation in the kitchen.

After measurement working surface templates are made. Concrete is poured into the trays, which will soon become a countertop. The cut out inlays are inserted into the chosen places.

For the manufacture of sinks, plywood is used, from which the shape is knocked down. Hard insulating foam is needed to form the recess.

After pouring, the concrete remains in the tray for two weeks. A well-made countertop with a sink looks beautiful, as in this photo.

Polishing the countertop grinding machine with diamond circle.

The last stage of manufacturing is pouring silicone joints. This makes them waterproof. After the surface is polished with a paste of wax and mineral oil to create an additional protective layer. The procedure is recommended to be carried out once or twice a year.

Pieces of glass, porcelain, metal, and anything that supports original design interior and will make an impression, must be chosen carefully, as it will remain there forever.

Owner's personal inlay

This horseshoe belonged to a horse that the client loved very much. Pieces of glass and gravel fit into the overall picture. Other customers choose coins or even fragments of mechanisms.

Decoration can be embedded in the profile of the countertop.

The board is removed to discard the nut shells and other debris that should not fall into the sink. Pleasant blue inserts open on the profile.

The gray material harmonizes perfectly with the brownish pieces of glass.

Blueish-green shades look inspiring. Pigmentation of the material is not easy, but the result is excellent.

Gaokas artist. He has degrees in art and its history. This is felt in the products of the master, which create a special atmosphere in the space of the house.

In order to buy a countertop for the kitchen that will fully meet your needs in terms of aesthetics and functionality, you need to prepare a significant amount of money. It is much more economical to make it yourself, especially since it is completely possible to do it at home. Your idea can be carried out with the help of concrete, due to the availability of the material and the relative ease of working with it.

How to make a concrete countertop with your own hands? By understanding the basic manufacturing techniques and knowing the instructions for concreting, you can not only make a new surface in the kitchen, but also restore the old one, which makes it possible to save even more money.

Tabletop drawing development

First of all, you should decide how your table will look and what its dimensions will be. In the production of your countertop for the kitchen, the edges of the plane must certainly clearly adjoin the walls.

Making a clear drawing of a concrete countertop is the main step of the work, since the quality of the finished product will depend on its development. During the drawing process, calculate the creation of countertops from parts. The weight of the finished product in the whole version is large, therefore, dividing it into parts during production makes it easier to move and process them, and in addition, it will protect against cracks.

When making the frame of a concrete countertop with your own hands, it is necessary to calculate the strengthening of its main part with transverse boards, and in addition, its connection in separate parts with the countertop. Wooden boards are used for the frame. When striving, you can use finished cabinets with drawers. It all depends on the imagination of the home specialist.

Materials and tools for work

Calculating the required number of substances, from which the countertop for the kitchen will be made, add a little so that there is a margin.

The following materials are required for the countertop:

• cement not lower than grade M500;
• river sand;
• water;
• plasticizer.

To make a cement base, you need to build a formwork - a form to fill. For her, smooth ones are selected, strong materials and do it with technology.

You will also need:

Creation of formwork and preparation of concrete mortar

We lay a sheet of plywood or chipboard on a smooth plane, after which we transfer the previously organized drawing with a ruler and a pencil. On each line we put wooden beam 50x30 millimeters, so that as a result the thickness of its countertop is 50 millimeters. It is this parameter that is suitable for a concrete product: a decrease in thickness makes the structure fragile, an increase makes it very heavy.

The fastening of the formwork walls must be sufficiently reliable to withstand the load formed by the concrete during its curing. It is more correct to combine the joints of two walls with the help of corners or long screws (from 60 millimeters). The place in front of the sink is located depending on the type and size of the plumbing fixture.

There are 2 types of sinks:

1. Embedded.
2. Overhead.

The 2nd type has a horizontal side with a width of about 30 millimeters, which must be taken into account when drawing up the drawing. If you decide to produce countertop for the kitchen made of concrete, in this case it is more correct to use an overhead sink. Firstly, built-in modifications have a landing side, which is not so easy to make. Secondly, the presence of a rim makes it possible to allow a small inaccuracy in the formation of a hole for the sink. In addition, you should definitely calculate the passage for the mixer. For this, it is allowed to use plastic pipe 35 mm in diameter.

After preparing the form with your own hands you can mix the solution. First of all, 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand are mixed. Further, a plasticizer and water are added to the acquired composition. The prepared composition should be in the form of a paste.

To obtain colored concrete or marble countertops, it is necessary to add a special coloring pigment or a special crumb to it. If a measured color is needed, in this case the pigment is added to the dry mix, and to obtain the characteristic granite stains, the pigment is diluted with water and added to the prepared concrete composition.

Before moving on to pouring the concrete solution, the form is placed in an exactly horizontal position with a level control. Prepared, carefully blended composition, carefully poured into the prepared form several times. The surface of the mold for a concrete countertop is covered with a film and aged for at least 10 days. Next, the film is removed, and the form is disassembled into parts. Subsequent processing of the product can be carried out after a week. During this period, the concrete blank, created by one's own hands, will completely dry out.

Grinding and polishing of the product

The grinding process takes place in several steps. At first, a coarse grinding disc is used, cultivating all the edges of the workpiece with it. However, more attention is paid to the outside, previously located at the bottom of the countertop mold.

Grinding the tabletop plane is carried out in the following way:

The final step in the production of countertops with your own hands is polishing the product. When polishing, grinding discs are used in turn, having abrasiveness from 400 up to 1500 units. The plane is polished at a slow pace and carefully; during work, the polishing layers should be continuously moistened.

After finishing the polishing process the plane of the tabletop created by one's own hands looks even and radiant. At first glance, it will be difficult to distinguish it from natural stone. The final step of the work is the processing of the plane to protect it from contamination with a special sealant and the installation of the finished countertop in a place specialized for it.

No kitchen can be imagined without countertops. Modern options can boast of the highest quality, reliability, wear resistance, as well as a wonderful appearance. Naturally, the cost of such a product is very high, so you will have to pay a decent amount for the purchase. The way out is very simple - to make a countertop yourself, because there is nothing complicated in this task.

Kitchen worktop - why do we choose concrete?

The most popular material in the case self-manufacturing countertops are considered to be concrete, although products made of liquid stone, chipboard or wood are also in great demand. Concrete countertop is simple and convenient option, which is ideal for interior design of any kitchen due to its versatility. After all, concrete products are quite easy to make with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

Concrete structures have many positive qualities and merit. You should know that given material It belongs to the category of durable and solid, thanks to which the countertops are able to endure huge temperatures. In terms of strength and durability, concrete is not much inferior to granite, although the cost of the latter is several times higher. However, high performance is achieved due to the unique structure, consisting of numerous small pores. With constant use, especially in the kitchen, these pores become clogged with organic substances. As a result, the care of the kitchen becomes somewhat more complicated.

Particular attention should be paid to acids, as they can have a negative effect on the concrete surface. Even a drop of lemon juice leaves a dark stain.

The reason is the calcium contained in the concrete. It is this element, which acts as the main link, that is subject to the destructive effects of acids. However, you should not worry too much about this - all problems can be solved with the help of a protective layer of polymeric substances. Polymers are applied to concrete after hardening, which ensures reliable protection, and also contributes to the simplification of care for the countertop. The only disadvantage of the polymer coating is that it will no longer be possible to put hot frying pans without a stand, since extreme temperatures will lead to the destruction of polymers. Unlike concrete itself, this coating will not be able to transfer such loads without consequences.

We draw a drawing and select materials - preparation is in full swing

One of the most milestones on the way to production concrete surface is to create a drawing. This is necessary in order to accurately know the dimensions of the countertop, as well as its appearance. In order for the product to be firmly attached and not to stagger during operation, it must be installed as tightly as possible to the walls. You should also not forget about the sink - its dimensions and location are indicated in the drawing. The same applies to the corner, because kitchens are very often corner, and that's where it usually happens. Ideally, the angle is straight and is 90 degrees - this will greatly facilitate the work process. If the angle is slightly different, you will need to take this into account during construction works, and also note when making a drawing.

In some cases, it is recommended to make a surface from several separate components. This method is due to the fact that large kitchens surfaces are very bulky and heavy. If the product is divided into several smaller structures, then it will be much easier to work and install them. In addition, it will be possible to avoid cracks and chips that may appear in case of unsuccessful processing or moving heavy objects. After drawing a sketch, you can start collecting necessary materials and tools. Choose high-quality and reliable equipment. For work you will need the following items:

• plastic sheets 18 mm thick;
• plywood sheets;
• hardwood boards;
• sand and cement for mixing the mortar;
• polymer concrete made from acrylic resins;
• reinforcing mesh to strengthen the structure;
• decorative elements - shells, small pebbles, broken glass to decorate the surface;
• glue spray;
• silicone sealants;
• colors - special coloring pigments to give the surface the desired color shade.

Naturally, we cannot do anything without tools. For successful work, you will need tools such as:

1. 1. building level;
2. 2. hacksaw for wood;
3. 3. screwdriver - required for mounting the formwork and its subsequent disassembly;
4. 4. spatulas, levelers, trowels for working with uncured concrete;
5. 5. polishing wheels;
6. 6. sandpaper;
7. 7. Sander.

Formwork and reinforcing mesh - the influence of the elements on the quality of the product

The next step is to form wooden frame or formwork where we will pour concrete mortar in order to give it the required shape. It is necessary to make a strong frame that can withstand the pressure of concrete for several days. Formwork greatly affects the quality and aesthetic appearance finished product. To create it, we use plywood sheets laid on flat surface. Next, we transfer all the lines and strokes from the drawing to plywood, exactly repeating the shape of the future countertop. Perimeter must be installed wooden bars 50 mm high.

As practice shows, a 50 mm thick worktop is optimal for a kitchen work surface. Increasing the thickness threatens to make it too heavy, while a smaller thickness negatively affects the strength of the product.

To give the frame the necessary strength properties, Special attention devote to fixing the walls. To do this, we use long screws (at least 6 cm) or metal corners, which will provide connections of a sufficiently high quality. Depending on the size and type of the sink and faucet, we will determine the place for the sink. Today, overhead and built-in sinks are popular. There is no particular difference between them, this also applies to cost. If you chose an overhead sink, then the only significant difference is a horizontal rim about 3 cm wide. When drawing up sketches and forming wooden frames for concrete, this must be remembered.

Experienced craftsmen note that overhead sinks are best suited for installation in self-made countertops. The reason lies precisely in the above-mentioned rim, the presence of which makes it possible to allow small errors in the formation of a hole for washing. In addition, built-in sinks have special landing chamfers, which cause great difficulties in the manufacture of a concrete surface. To make a hole for the mixer, you can use various aids. Best fit plastic pipe, the cross section of which is 35 mm. It is this diameter that is the standard for mixer nozzles.

After that, it remains for us to install a reinforcing mesh to reinforce the concrete structure. An ordinary steel mesh is suitable, the mesh size of which is 25x25 mm. It is necessary to select the mesh with the condition that it does not touch the walls of the wooden frame. So, the distance between the reinforcement and the formwork should be about 2 cm. There is one trick that allows you to avoid any manifestations of the grid on the concrete surface - just cover the base of the formwork with an ordinary polyethylene film. In this case, the concrete will turn out to be even and smooth, while the mesh will remain inside and will not stand out in relief.

Concrete mix - proportions for mixing mortar

After all preparatory work you can proceed to the main operation - creating concrete mix. To do this, we need several basic elements - river sand, M500 cement and water. By creating concrete table with your own hands, you need to prepare a solution of the correct consistency, so be careful with the proportions. So, for one share of M500 cement, 3 shares of river sand are added.

To decorate the finished product, you can add a little fine gravel, but do not overdo it. After that, it remains only to add water and a plasticizer, constantly stirring the resulting solution. Ideal for these purposes construction mixer or an electric drill with a special nozzle. You can stop mixing the mixture after the consistency has reached the state of a cream or paste.

At the stage of creating the mixture, coloring colors are introduced, the task of which is to give the mixture the desired shades. To create unusual and beautiful stains that imitate a natural stone or granite, pigments are added to the already prepared solution with its further mixing. If the countertop should turn out with a uniform color, then the color is added to dry cement even before dilution with water and sand.

Now you can pour the prepared formwork with the solution. The frame should be located on a straight and even surface, as the building level will make sure. If the countertop is very large, then it is recommended to pour the mixture in several stages, since the container with concrete will be extremely heavy. Having carefully covered the formwork with a film of polyethylene, we leave the solution in this state for a day. Naturally, the film should not touch the surface, otherwise ugly marks will remain. After a day, the film is removed, and a damp cloth is laid in its place, the task of which is to prevent the appearance of cracks and chips that are characteristic of concrete at the drying stage.

After a few days (from 7 to 10), you can begin to dismantle the frame. Having removed the sides, turn the countertop over and carefully tap rubber mallet being careful not to damage the surface.

Finishing the countertop - how to grind and polish?

The last thing we have to do before installing the concrete product is grinding and polishing. To do this, you will need either ordinary sandpaper or an electric grinder. The latter option is preferable in cases where the surface is large enough.

First, the tabletop is sanded with a rough disc or coarse paper. By removing the existing irregularities, we also contribute to the opening of nearby pores, which we can now process with a special solution consisting of cement and acrylic sealant.

After carefully removing the remnants of the mixture, after waiting just a couple of hours, we proceed to re-grinding, this time fine-grained paper or a disk corresponding to the level of abrasiveness is required. To make the product look beautiful and stylish, it will be necessary to polish it without fail. To do this, you need a special grinding disc, the abrasiveness of which reaches a value of 1500. Polishing takes place very carefully, we carefully process each square centimeter of the countertop in a circular motion.

The result of your efforts will be an aesthetic, beautiful countertop with a shiny and smooth surface. It can already be used by pre-installing on workplace. However, we recommend that you pre-treat the product with antiseptics and special compounds that will provide protection from external irritants, including negative impact acidic substances.

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Marble stains are fascinating. But marble is soft, so it is a rarity in the kitchen. Hard granite, but difficult to process. Concrete - fake diamond, it is lighter, more diverse in color and pattern. A countertop made of acrylic or epoxy conglomerate would compensate for the shortcomings of stone slabs, if not for the price. Cast yourself out of concrete, feel like a sculptor - why not an idea? Having plunged into technological tricks, it turns out that concrete does not conceal any particular difficulties.

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Features of concrete in the manufacture of kitchen furniture

Required properties of furniture concrete:

• does not crack at a small thickness, that is, it has sufficient viscosity,
• does not create an ultra-high load on furniture supports,
• absorbs a minimum of heat
• the plate should be highly decorative, fit into the interior,
• lends itself to grinding, polishing, and therefore the filling granules are selected with a hardness identical to concrete,
• the mass is created of a homogeneous consistency, but thick, plastic - in such a way as to fill the mold manually, without pouring (the construction term “casting” used here is not entirely correct),
• as a result - a solid plate up to 40 mm thick, this is the main requirement.

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The listed properties are achieved by adding washed quartz sand, marble chips, plasticizers, broken glass, stable (dry / pasty) dyes to cement (grade not lower than 400).

Interesting: white grout for tile joints- This white cement M500, which has all the properties of a molding material.

Interesting chaotic mosaic. Pieces of polished onyx, marble are placed at the very bottom of the form, the gaps are filled with a mixture of sand, cement, crumbs. Fragments in the lower part should not be polished - for a bunch. The thinner the mosaic elements, the stronger the monolith.

Design and drawing

A product that is longer than 4 m must be reinforced. Depending on the method of reinforcement, concrete countertops are divided into:

• with chipboard filling,
• reinforced with metal
• fiberglass.

Reinforcement methods are as follows:

1. From channels, corners, triangular brackets up to 60 cm are welded (the width can be greater), they are fixed in increments of 0.5 m to the wall in level using dowels. This provides access to the floor that has not yet been equipped. Level from concrete screed the floor is h \u003d 25 (floor) +850 (kitchen cabinets) - 30 - 30 \u003d 815 (mm), the first 30 mm is the thickness of the concrete countertop, the second 30 mm is moisture-resistant base plywood. The wall is shtrobat until a groove is formed. The groove is filled with foam strips (the plate will “play” in size, heating up and then cooling down). On plywood sheet mount the side of the countertop. Pour. Replacing plywood - two sheets of fiberboard fastened together.

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1. A reinforcing welded grating made of a metal bar is placed in the pouring tray between the layers of concrete, having previously treated the inset structure with an anti-corrosion compound. The bars do not reach the contour of the plate 5 cm.

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1. With a total tabletop height of 35 mm, the first layer of fiberglass is laid after pouring 15 mm of concrete, the second - after 20 mm, by pressing. The third layer is applied on top.

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But chipboard filling is considered the most advanced reinforcement: with it, the countertop weighs less, the plate is drilled, it becomes possible to reduce the thickness and reduce the cost. An important point is fiberboard sheet reused as an insert after the template has been made. Paradoxically, the combination of fiberboard with concrete must be prevented (the coefficient of stretching of materials is different). The recessed sheet has the value of a substrate; even before contact with cement, it is impregnated with drying oil.

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"Sandwich" of both layers is safer to mount and transport. So that the fiberboard does not fall out of the nest, it is wrapped with tape, final stage- glued with mounting glue.

combination various ways reinforcement is always acceptable. Welded contours are reinforced around large holes. It is important to prepare the reinforcing inserts in advance, because the casting process takes only 50 minutes. After the first setting, the concrete cannot be moved and moved: the structure will be broken. Full hardening occurs after 2 weeks.

Drawing, template

Working with the plan, you need to decide where the hob will be, where the sink will be. It is important to use the capabilities of the cast countertop to the maximum: an arbitrary configuration allows you to place the sink in the protruding “crest” of the wave, the hob can stand across, and not along the wall. Perhaps we need to abandon the semi-circular edge of the table and give the edges some avant-garde shape.

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Being original, they remember the modularity of cabinets, upper cabinets. Having measured the wall, they are looking for options in the grid with a step of 20, 30 cm (scale 1:10), entering hob, oven, hood, and considering that all furniture will be covered with the same type of doors, flanges - it should look complete, rhythmic.

Two strips of fiberboard set the value of each specific angle in place, fasten the sheets glue gun. Then they bring the sheet to the wall, mark future slots on the fiberboard, ledges under niches, wall turns, sink contours, electric stove, etc. The start / end points of reference are not set on the plaster - at an indent of 18 mm from the corners ceramic apron). You also need to consider that the actual angles of the rooms differ from 90 degrees.

Experimenting with color

• Are they determined whether the countertop should be light or dark, maybe gray?
• Reddish, beige, yellowish or with a cold tint.
• Showing blotches - dark on white. Then from what? Same for the reverse effect.

Cut off the milk carton, mix the sample, adding broken brown, green, transparent glass, mica, amber along with the dye. The result is corrected.

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Regardless of additives, the concrete base is classic:

• for casting - cement + river (preferably quartz) sand, ratio 1: 4;
• for modeling - a ratio of 1: 3.

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Water is added gradually. The density of the first solution is oily. The density of the second is plasticine. Fill in the form first. The second is kneaded for frame concrete.

During sample creation, the ratio of ingredients is recorded. The main components are the usual ones. To improve the plasticity of the mass, it is recommended to add 150 g of washing powder (solution) to 25 kg of cement. On sale there is a universal concrete plasticizer that improves viscosity and plasticity.

Form preparation

On durable table lay a chipboard that exceeds the contours of the product by 20 cm. The surface is covered with PVC, with a sheet of thicknesses. 2 mm (options - polystyrene, fiberboard). Chipboard strips (planed beams) on the drawn contours lay out a board lubricated with silicone, fasten it with self-tapping screws, clamping it so that the silicone goes beyond the gap. The excess is erased. To form a facet at the junction of the substrate and the bead, a hose with a diameter of 1 cm is fixed, filling the gap of the hose and flat surfaces window putty.

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You can define the facet configuration yourself. To do this, a wooden plank is thinned at the edge “under the shoulder blade”, the profile is cut with a jigsaw. Executed from hardwood wood, water-repellent properties are obtained from impregnation with sunflower oil. With such an abacus, window putty is distributed in broaches.

In order to avoid the departure of the side from the perpendicular, it is reinforced with stiffeners from pieces of plywood, chipboard.

Circles are laid out with thick plastic, also fastening them on the “ribs”, drilling “into the secret”. Sharp bends are made up of thick plastic strips of the same height as the side, heated to 160 degrees. The work is carried out, protecting the hands with thermal gloves. A tungsten filament coil behind a metal box, covered with an even larger box - a simplified design of the heater. Plastics are chosen refractory.

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Pipe entry points, cutouts are laid with plastic plugs from shampoos, from old basins, polypropylene pipes, etc., fastening with a glue gun. The sides, checked by level, are sprayed with liquid wax (soap brew, as an option) from a household sprayer. Dried surfaces are protected from sticking to concrete 2–3 times.

Filling the table

The concrete mixer is filled with cement - 60% of the volume, sand - 10%, solid fractions - 29.5%. Water is only 0.5%. Check the viscosity, shift manually or in bulk from buckets. Mobile concrete is distributed with a trowel. Plasticine is trampled with palms, small bars of wood. Level along the upper edge with a bar (or building level knife type). After leveling, cover without gaps with a plastic film.

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A thick mass (for "stucco" tables) is laid by a team of manufacturers: in 50 minutes you need to have time to lay out, compact.

Laying decorative elements and inserting fasteners

The location of the recesses for dowels, metal corners, if required, are set in advance, marked on the template. The template is then attached to wooden frame, coinciding with the contour board. The template sheet is drilled (cut through) on the marks.

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The recesses for the dowels are formed by the dowels themselves, and the corners are welded onto pieces of reinforcing mesh. Moving the corners along the unfrozen mass, they find a match with the template, pour it from above.

Pre-cast molded brackets with protruding reinforcement are welded to the reinforcing mesh. Inserts protruding beyond the tabletop are aligned with squares and a level according to the marks indicated on the template.

Grinding, polishing

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After 2 weeks, the countertop is opened, moistened several times, dried - to guarantee the completion of chemical processes. A dry slab is ground first from below. Then turn over, moisten, dry and polish with a grinder grit P 80. Increase the grit by 50 values, continue to grind until a “mirror” surface is obtained. Completion of the process - emery P 500 with the addition of water. The grinder must have guaranteed moisture protection. In inaccessible places, a round stick with a skin fixed on it, a wooden block is used.

Restoration of an old concrete countertop

A primer for concrete is applied to an old concrete countertop, it is dried. Distribute with a spatula similar to the previous composition. Cracks are filled with a knife, awl, trowel. The dried surface is polished, water-repellent properties are given to it with liquid wax, polishing wooden surfaces(like Pronto).

Video: how to make a concrete countertop, do-it-yourself kitchen sink - instructions

Above, we looked at how to make a concrete countertop, below - instructions for making a sink with your own hands.

Wide planes are comfortable, visually expand the space. The arrangement of the kitchen with ordinary rectangular countertops can be achieved by cutting chipboard, MDF boards. Is it worth bothering with the casting process if only rectangular shapes are planned? Also: in a small kitchen, it is impossible to appreciate the spectacular wavy line. You need at least 4-5 meters of a free wall.