Making a pond from a film with your own hands. DIY decorative film pond

15 years. Regulatory term service for 50 years. Butyl rubber has even more.
No roots tear the film (unlike concrete).
It is not necessary to pour any ash, place geotextiles under the film.
And problems with cleanliness... This is not a problem of a film pond, but a problem of any pond. The right equipment must be installed and maintained.

Last edit: 11/21/17

Participant

I am a theorist. I do site maintenance. All these arguments that I said I saw with my own eyes.

Mike

Guest

I am a theorist. I do site maintenance. All these arguments that I said I saw with my own eyes.
About the fact that it is necessary to lay geotextiles - this is necessary, I agree. But I wasn't talking about technology. And what pitfalls you need to pay attention to.
The material itself - the film - is wonderful. We are talking about ordinary people who were going to make a pond. I wrote what I think and why. This is my opinion based on my life experience.
I repeat - if you like messing around - super, make yourself a pond. If not, spend that big money on something nice.
Concerning concrete - a problem who makes. Of the 10 firms, only one works on the technology to the end. I was talking about professional people who specialize in reservoirs. Nothing happens to concrete. But for this you need to do everything right and give a lot of money.

Registration: 26.01.07 Messages: 25 Acknowledgments: 77

Participant

Registration: 26.01.07 Messages: 25 Acknowledgments: 77 Address: Moscow

you found fault with the film and promoted concrete.
I suspect that you meant the wrong film and the right reinforced concrete.
So. The film must be used correctly. And using the film, any unprepared person can build a pond for himself.
I did not find fault, but warned - two big differences.
An unprepared person cannot do anything well on his own.
Leakage from film reservoirs is the same problem as poorly concreted ones.
Poor, unprofessionally made pond - no matter what materials - this is a mistake. thrown away money
If something goes wrong with the film, you can fix it or redo it at any time. What about concrete?
From a concrete pond, water must be drained for the winter. Otherwise it will break. From the film is not necessary.
In addition, a third of the reservoirs for which the film is bought are concrete reservoirs that do not hold water. Find and fix a leak in the reinforced concrete pond is extremely problematic, sometimes impossible. It is easier to lay them with a film over concrete.
It is not necessary to drain water from a concrete pond for the winter. Throw two to five empty plastic bottles, you can with sand tied to weights in the water and that's it. Also, some people throw a couple of planks into the water. When the water freezes and expands, it presses on the boards and plastic bottles and not on the walls.
If the film is decorated with stone, then repair is the same hassle. You must redo everything. (Take it apart, clean it, find the leak, and repair it and put everything back) Wow.
I am not against these technologies. I am in favor of thinking about all the + and - before people get together to make a pretty swamp on their site. And how much are they willing to invest in this effort and money.
For the umpteenth time I repeat - I like to tinker with it - super, the flag in my hands.
Most do not understand what awaits them. Decide for everyone for themselves.

Registration: 11.05.06 Messages: 1.663 Acknowledgments: 1.597

self-taught

Registration: 05/11/06 Messages: 1.663 Acknowledgments: 1.597 Address: Moscow, cottage in the Yaroslavl region

Suddenly, the topic came up. In the mid-80s, I lived for some time in the Czech Republic (then Czechoslovakia) in a tiny town. And in the suburbs, the residents had plots (locally, fences), no more than 2-3 acres. What were they doing there! Every inch was taken care of. Many also wanted to have a decorative pond, which, you see, is very problematic in such areas. So, many dug enameled basins into the ground and arranged them like a pond. And it looked just amazing!

Mike

Guest

Poor Germans are also given 2 acres along railways. And they are weird too. Sometimes it's very beautiful. For these purposes, an old bathtub is well suited.
But for a normal area, a larger reservoir is needed.
Dear green. In order not to break your concrete pond, you need to fill it plastic container rather than put 2-3 bottles.
But that's not even the problem.
Concrete, contrary to your delusion, absorbs water. And this water is tearing the structure of concrete from the inside.

Registration: 22.11.06 Messages: 759 Acknowledgments: 316

blocked

Alexander

Registration: 22.11.06 Messages: 759 Acknowledgments: 316 Address: Moscow

I can confirm. A neighbor made one in the form of a bean, 1m deep. Two years later, the bottom was covered with splinters from concrete, the walls cracked.
I see two exits.
The first is not to bother with concrete, it is enough to put geotextiles on the bottom (preferably silvery), bring it to the sides of the reservoir. Top with sand.
Second. If you really want to make a pond with concrete walls, foresee the possibility of completely removing water for the winter, and, of course, make a cover from snow and rain. Which is generally a hassle.
You decide

Well, I don’t know, my film (greenhouse film, not special) is already 6 years old, still alive. There are no more mosquitoes than the rest, and maybe even less, because tadpoles have great respect for mosquito larvae for breakfast. And if it breaks, so I can arrange a spicy garden there or replace the film. I will solve problems as they come up, but for now I like it.

No, little greenie, you denounced the film and promoted concrete.
I suspect that you meant the wrong film and the right reinforced concrete.
So. The film must be used correctly. And using the film, any unprepared person can build a pond for himself.
But this is not possible with concrete.
If something goes wrong with the film, you can fix it or redo it at any time. What about concrete?
From a concrete pond, water must be drained for the winter. Otherwise it will break. From the film is not necessary.
In addition, a third of the reservoirs for which the film is bought are concrete reservoirs that do not hold water. Find and fix a leak in the reinforced concrete pond is extremely problematic, sometimes impossible. It is easier to lay them with a film over concrete.

I fully support my colleague. I just wanted to add to the defense of the film that a concrete pond and fish are incompatible, because it releases carcinogens and all sorts of filth, so that the fish starts to sausage.
And a really significant part of the buyers who purchase the film are those who reanimate their concrete pond.
I am telling you this as a developer.
Well, I don’t know, my film (greenhouse film, not special) is already 6 years old, still alive. There are no more mosquitoes than the rest, and maybe even less, because tadpoles have great respect for mosquito larvae for breakfast. And if it breaks, so I can arrange a spicy garden there or replace the film. I will solve problems as they come up, but for now I like it.
You probably don't have a dog. She quickly with (the greenhouse film coped
You, little greenie, are clearly a landscape worker.

Registration: 19.09.06 Messages: 91 Acknowledgments: 191

Yes, the dog is no longer available. Yes, I do not argue, the special film is of course great and when mine breaks, of course I will buy it. Just 6 years ago, I was able to find a film for the pond only in the "Business Bouquet" and it cost there like a cast-iron bridge, I did not have such free funds for entertainment.

Registration: 26.01.07 Messages: 25 Acknowledgments: 77

Participant

Registration: 26.01.07 Messages: 25 Acknowledgments: 77 Address: Moscow

You, little greenie, are clearly a landscape worker.
Many of your brothers scold the film and insist on concrete, but the clients who then turn to us tell us very unflatteringly how they convinced him to make a pond out of concrete.

Registration: 01.02.07 Messages: 97 Acknowledgments: 18

You, little greenie, are clearly a landscape worker.
Many of your brothers scold the film and insist on concrete, but the clients who then turn to us tell us very unflatteringly how they convinced him to make a pond out of concrete.
You are right, I work there. But I dissuade my clients from the reservoir. And if you read my early statements, you would understand this. I am completely against water. Only if it's not a thrill to the client himself. And then first I tell all the cons. Not a single client has yet said, "That I divorced him into something." And I will continue to stick to this plan. You won’t earn all the money, and you won’t wash off the name.
About fish and concrete. There is a company "AvantAkva". This company has been dealing with ponds, fish and aquatic plants for a lot of time. I don't take care of the ponds. If necessary, I order from this company. Not a single puncture in many years. Unlike other companies (very often I call for the repair and restoration of sites after unfortunate landscapers) For the money, ready-made and mountains and ravines and forests and push everything on 4 acres.
If the task is set - to make a pond with fish - the guys take this into account and make a pond with fish (including concrete ones. The fish live. There is a guarantee and a contract for this.
I meant that for fish, concrete must be treated with special means (but not everyone can afford it), and fish and fish are different. But to dissuade customers from the reservoir is rather not better to give them a choice, laying out a complete, independent picture.
And still, under the influence of water, microcracks form in the concrete, which subsequently increase, which leads to a violation of the waterproofing, so it is necessary to drain water in concrete ponds for the winter. And where to put the fish? A properly made film pond does not require draining the water, and at the right depth, the fish comfortably hibernate in it

The owners of a suburban land plot there are two ways: use square meters purely under the garden and lawn, or break flower beds and gazebos on them. Maybe we exaggerate a little, but there is something in it. Usually, those who choose the second option try to place everything on their site at once: both a gazebo and summer kitchen, and a place for barbecue, and flower beds, and a pond for swimming or breeding fish. And when you want to carry out so many plans, it is very important that everything is well planned. In this article, we invite you to discuss how it would be better to build a pond on your land.

Why is film better?

Most likely, few people want to dispute the fact that the pond is the most beautiful decoration suburban area. Therefore, it is very important that those who decide to build such a building find answers to all questions that arise during the construction process. The quality and durability of the pond depends on this.

Pond in the country - how to do it yourself

Pond maintenance is not easy. Therefore, it is very important that the waterproofing is on high level. After all, it is reliable waterproofing ensures high-quality and durable operation of the structure. Garden pond film is the best insulating material for reservoirs. We will now consider its features.

Advantages of a film for artificial reservoirs

Caring for a pond is not a simple technical process. A good insulating coating will help to avoid many hassles. What is it - quality coating for swimming pools, ponds, reservoirs and artificial lakes?

Film laying

Modern manufacturers of insulation materials have invented a reliable waterproofing agent, which has a lot of advantages:

An environmentally friendly product, which means that it will not harm anyone environment, nor people;
Democratic price;
Large selection of colors and patterns;
Significant resistance to mechanical and chemical damage;
High quality material can last up to 50 years;
Easy and convenient use when finishing an artificial pond.

Agree that these listed advantages are enough to pay attention to such material as a film insulator. Among the owners of suburban areas and landscape designers, the film for the pond has become widely known. This material is not hard to work with..

Naturalness first

Any body of water begins with a foundation pit. Then a purchased polymer one-piece bowl is installed or a concrete one is poured. The polymer bowl has its pros and cons. Among the minuses, first of all, we will name the tendency to damage and the stamped shape. Therefore, if you have the physical and financial ability, give preference to a concrete pond. This is a more durable material, and a concrete bowl provides more opportunities for further decorative transformation of the reservoir.

Film coating with concrete pouring of the pond

So that the concrete does not crumble over time from exposure to moisture, it is tiled, glass mosaic or even marble. But, if we are talking about an artificial pond, then he will only lose from this. Ponds in the garden are built to get closer to nature, and not to emphasize the man-made design.

Therefore, relatively new method film waterproofing helps to cope with this task. The coating will be even, but at the same time will not emphasize the unnaturalness of the reservoir.

Film coating can be divided into three types:

Ultra-thin coating is a film up to 1 mm;

Ultra-strong coating is a film from 1.5 mm and above;
Air sac-durable cover with air cushions that prevent injury from falls.

These films are commercially available both in black and in all sorts of bright colors. Just look at the names: Blue Lagoon, Golden Sand, White Pearl.

Types and characteristics of a film for an artificial reservoir

Modern market landscape design offers us such options for waterproofing: polyethylene film, PVC material (polyvinyl chloride) and butyl rubber pond film.

PVC film

Polyethylene film is the most inexpensive material of this kind, but at the same time the most fragile (warranty of use is only 2-3 years).

PVC film is a very durable material that has high elasticity and waterproofing.

Technical PVC characteristics films:

Weight of one m2 from 0.5 kg to 1 kg;
Thickness 0.5-1.2mm;
Elasticity index 200%;
To break the integrity of the PVC film coating, the mechanical action of sharp glass or metal is necessary.

Installation of PVC film on a small pond (video)

Butyl rubber film

Butyl rubber film - durable and reliable material which will serve you for a long time (up to 50 years). Favorite material of builders because it is easy to work with. Also such material is not subject to destruction from sun rays (no cracks) and temperatures(this is very convenient, because you do not need to drain the water from the pond for the winter). Safe for the aquatic environment (compatible with fauna and flora). Another plus is that such a film is black, and this helps to create the appearance of a deep bottom in finished version pond.

Butyl rubber film

Specifications of rubber film:

The weight of one m2 is approximately 1.5 kg;
Thickness 1.02mm;
Elasticity index 300%;
To break the integrity of the butyl rubber film coating, mechanical action of wood or metal is necessary.

If, nevertheless, you were able to cut or somehow damage the film, then with the help of rubber mastic you can repair any hole (such as a repair kit).

Rolls of rubber film are produced in a sufficiently large width (3-15 meters), which allows you to make a holistic, seamless coating of small ponds.

Mounting a rubber film is just as easy as installing a PVC film. True, due to the fact that rubber rolls are produced much harder, at least one or two more pairs of hands are needed. Pieces of film are glued together with tape. Places of such soldering remain waterproof.

Flexible butyl rubber material will follow any shape and shape of the pond. And the folds will hide behind water, stones and plants. Experts advise using a geo-substrate to protect the rubber film from the effects of rhizomes.

Not without helpers!

It can be seen that there are now plenty of materials for covering pools and artificial reservoirs. Therefore it is very important to do right choice. We hope that these criteria will help you:

The size and depth of the pond. If the depth of the reservoir is less than a meter, then polyethylene film 0.5mm thick will be enough; if the depth is up to 2 meters, then you need a PVC film 1mm thick; if your pond is more than two meters deep and wide enough, then use a butyl rubber sheet for covering;
Your choice should also be dictated by what you plan to place in the pond (additional objects - cascades of water, a waterfall, a fountain, fish or plan to swim in the pond).

Material manufacturers and price overview

Like many other products, artificial pond film is divided into high-end and public products. For example, elite film is one that imitates natural materials(stone, gravel). The price of such a film will start from 700 rubles / m2. The leading position is occupied by the Italians. They are followed by German firms and manufacturers from the USA compete with them.

There are a lot of film manufacturers, so proceed from your requirements for the reservoir

We bring to your attention an overview of the most famous manufacturers of pool cover:

Agrilac is an Italian company specializing in the production and sale of PVC material. The products of this company are of the highest quality and affordable. Agrilac film is the best option. The price of products starts from 150 rubles / m2;
IZOFOL is a Polish manufacturer specializing in the production of waterproofing films. The most important principle of the company is the quality of products, so the films of this company are not inferior in the market. The price starts from 200 rubles / m2;
WTB ELBEsecur is the most famous manufacturer waterproofing materials on the German market. Produces and distributes several types of PVC material. The strength of the proposed product more than compensates for the small assortment. The films of this company can withstand even overload. The price starts from 230 rubles / m2;
RENOLIT is another world famous German company. Products are of high quality and a wide range. The price starts from 200 rubles / m2;
Gardena is a European association engaged in the production of items for landscape design. The price starts from 200 rubles / m2;
Heissner is a German brand whose specialty is the chemical industry. Therefore, they are quite well versed in the production of PVC films.

There are not so many manufacturers of butyl rubber film on the market, because the production of such material is quite complicated and expensive:

EPDM PondLiner is the leader of such products in the US market and in the world too. Trade is conducted with more than 100 countries. The price starts from 270 rubles / m2;
Larex is Italian company. To make the price more affordable, they reduced the thickness of the membrane film. The price starts from 160 rubles / m2;
Ergis is a Polish brand that has tried to find a favorable price / quality ratio for everyone. Worthy company. The price starts from 200 rubles / m2;
OASE and Pontec are German manufacturers of butyl rubber film. Products can be classified as elite. Therefore, the price starts from 300 rubles / m2.

It is clear that the list of manufacturers is not complete, but these listed are of the highest level.

Step-by-step installation of a film for a pond (video)

Your choice - butyl rubber film or PVC coating - should be influenced by qualitative analysis of your reservoir. Consider the size and purpose of your reservoir. Butyl rubber film material does not react with pool chemicals and is not damaged during water filtration. In order not to re-order, calculate required amount material. Also, be careful that you are provided with guarantees for service, certificates, adherence to all manufacturer's requirements, the possibility of an exchange.

The landscaping market is very competitive these days, so choose the pool protection material that suits your needs. Gone are the days when cracks were covered with clay. Polymers that have come to replace natural material nature adequately respond to all necessary requirements for high quality waterproofing.

Flexible waterproofing has several advantages over other methods of creating a reservoir. It is fairly easy to install. Everyone can deal with it. It also allows you to make a reservoir of any, arbitrary shape, which is not possible when using a ready-made form.

The first step in creating any reservoir is digging a pit. This is basic and very important point. Everything must be done without errors, because. it will be impossible to correct them later. A pond is not just a hole filled with water. It will contain containers with plants, so the pit is dug in steps or terraces.

The shallowest terrace is dug first. Usually its depth ranges from 30 to 40 cm, width from 35 to 50 cm, depending on the size of the reservoir. It will house plants of the coastal zone, such as a swamp, irises, pontederia, etc. The next step is already deeper, from 50 to 80 cm. The main soloists of the reservoir - nymphs, as well as other plants growing at this depth, will settle here. And the final stage will be the deepest part or the bottom of our pit. The minimum depth should be at least 1 m for warm areas and 1.5 for areas with harsh winters. Then the pond will not overheat on hot days, and on cold days fish will winter well in it.

The walls of the terraces should be made at a slight angle, and not sheer. This is required to prevent slipping of the soil and proper styling films.

The next step is to prepare the pit for covering it with a film. Inspect it for stones protruding from the ground and other sharp objects that can damage the canvas. All of them must be removed. If the soil is heterogeneous, rocky, then a sand cushion should be made 4-7 cm thick. If the soil does not contain foreign, solid inclusions, then you can do without sand. Next, you need to line the pit with a special substrate (geotextile). This special material will protect our film from damage. Single pebbles, etc., which we may have overlooked. If you were unable to purchase given material or you are limited in funds, do not be sad. It can be replaced with other materials. Almost everything will fit. Old linoleum, carpet, laminate flooring, unnecessary raincoats or jackets, blankets, etc. All this can be put to work.

Next, we proceed to laying the actual film itself. Do not use plastic wrap. Of course, its price is several times less than that of special materials, but such a film will last you no more than one season. It is absolutely not designed for frost and the scorching sun. We need PVC film for ponds (polyvinyl chloride), or butyl rubber film. These are special materials intended for the construction of water bodies. Such films are not cheap, but they will serve you from 10 to 40 years! Worth spending, isn't it?

So, we choose the film itself. If your pond is not too large and deep (up to 1.5 m deep), then PVC film from 0.5 to 1 mm will be enough for you. thick. If the pond is large and deep enough, then PVC or butyl rubber film of greater thickness, 1mm, will be required. and more. Butyl rubber is a stronger and more durable material (the service life of such a film can reach 30 years or more.), But it is also a rather expensive material. PVC film is slightly inferior in durability (it will serve you from 7 to 15 years), but its price is more acceptable. There are several colors of pond films, but black is considered the most successful and win-win.

After choosing the film, you need to calculate what size of the canvas we need. This is done quite simply. The length of the canvas will be equal to the length of the reservoir + two maximum depths + a small margin at the edges (usually no more than 50 cm.) The width is calculated in the same way. The width of the reservoir + two maximum depths + reserves at the edge.

Lay the film should be in sufficiently warm weather. It is best to spread the canvas in the sun and wait 2-3 hours. During this time, the film will heat up and become more plastic and pliable. We align the film in the center of the reservoir and, starting from the bottom, carefully line the pit. In this case, you should try to make fewer folds. Of course, they are inevitable and where you have to make a large fold, it is better to divide it into several smaller folds.

Water should be poured in stages. First, filling the deepest part of the reservoir, simultaneously correcting and smoothing the film where necessary. After the reservoir is completely filled, you should not immediately start decorating it. The edges of the film should be left unfixed for at least a few days. During this time, the film under water pressure will take desired shape and stretch a little. After that, you can safely begin to equip the pond.

Foreword

If you are going to make a pond from a film, you have to spend more effort than when creating a decorative pond from old bath.

Required Tools and materials

fittingsConcrete mixerBituminous masticBulgarianRollerBucketWaterNailsNail pullerClayPrimerplaned boardDrillStonePencilExpanded clayBrushcuvetteShovelMaster OKPolyethylene filmRouletteExtensionLevelCement

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Content

If you are going to make a pond from a film, you have to spend more effort than when creating a decorative pond from an old bathtub. Firstly, you will need to build a pit, and secondly, be sure to make a blind area. But the result is worth it - such a pond is not limited by the area and shape of the container, which means that during its creation and subsequent design, you will be able to show more imagination.

How to build a pond from a film with your own hands: tools and materials

Whatever type of coating is used to create a do-it-yourself film pond, the principle of operation will be the same. Only minor exceptions are possible.

To work, you will need the following tools:

spirit level (building level);
a skein of cord or twine (for marking);
wooden pegs;
garden hose;
shovel.

Before you build a pond from a film with your own hands, purchase the following materials:

film;
geotextiles or concrete (to protect the reservoir from the roots of trees, teeth and claws of animals, sharp stones, etc.);
sand (for the underlying layer);
submersible pump(its capacity will depend on the size of the reservoir);
cleaning filter (preferably a pressure filter with a reverse cleaning system);
decorative stones;
aquatic plants.

How to calculate the amount of film and how to choose the location and shape of the pond

How to calculate the amount of pond film per suburban area? When choosing the size of the waterproofing material, all possible circumstances must be taken into account, so a margin is always required. The calculation of the film coverage can be done as follows: the size of the width and length of the future reservoir must be folded, double the depth and add 600 mm for an allowance - this film will be fixed along the edges of the pond.

Before choosing a place for arranging a film pond, you need to take into account the requirements determined by the standards for the arrangement of all reservoirs: the place should be sufficiently lit, there should be no trees and shrubs in the immediate vicinity, it is better to make the pond closer to the house and the source of water and power points etc.

The film base of the reservoir bowl allows you to achieve a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Therefore, when choosing all these parameters for a do-it-yourself film pond in the country, you need to take into account the usual requirements that apply to garden ponds. And, of course, by choice. But it is better that the pond has rounded lines without sharp corners - such a reservoir will look good, and it is more convenient when laying the film, as well as later when cleaning the reservoir, because in sharp corners there will always be more garbage.

In any case, the reservoir needs to be equipped with terraces - for plants. If you plan to breed fish in a pond, then its depth should be at least 50-60 cm. Some aquatic plants, such as large nymphs, require a landing depth of up to 70 cm.

The photo “Do-it-yourself pond from a film” shows all the options for the shapes and sizes of garden ponds:

When choosing a design style, you can focus on some separate element in the overall composition - it can be an original stone, tree, sculpture or alpine slide.

Construction of a pit for a pond for laying a film

Before making a pond from a film, you need to draw a plan of the reservoir indicating the depth of all the steps of the reservoir (terraces for planting plants) and the placement of the main elements of the arrangement.

All work with the film should be carried out on a warm sunny day, since the coefficient of elasticity of the film increases with increasing temperature, it will stretch better and easily go around all the ledges of the pit.

Before constructing a pit, you need to find out what the level of groundwater is: if they lie quite close to the surface of the earth, then you will need to arrange an inlet valve, otherwise the rising level of groundwater will squeeze out part of the bottom, damaging the reservoir.

Before the construction of the pit with the help of coastal modules fastened with metal brackets, it is necessary to mark the contours of the pond. It is also necessary to mark all planned zones: coastal, shallow and deep - terraces for landing aquatic plants. You can limit yourself to only one terrace.

At the same time, it is important to give correct form the walls of the pit: with chernozem and clay soil, vertical walls can be made, and with sandy - inclined.

It is more convenient to start digging from the upper terrace, then moving on to the second level, and lastly, you need to dig the bottom. When working on terraces, you should constantly check their horizontalness.

The process of digging a pond is quite difficult, especially if the pond is very large, so if possible, it is better to use a mini-excavator (rent).

If water accumulates at the bottom of the pit during digging, it will be necessary to remove the latter using a pump specially adapted for pumping water with impurities and solids. For pumped water, you can dig an auxiliary hole nearby.

At small sizes such problems are unlikely to arise in a reservoir, but in any case, when digging a pit, a lot of land will be taken out, which will have to be removed somewhere. This needs to be thought about in advance. You can take it outside the cottage or scatter it throughout the site, raising the level, or use the earth as an embankment under alpine slide.

How to lay the film and fill the pond with water

When the pit is dug, you need to pay attention to the condition of the bottom, and if there are sharp stones or tree roots, then it is better to remove them. Before laying the film for the pond, it is necessary to pour a bedding of sand 5-10 cm thick on the bottom and on the terraces. Next, geotextiles are lined - special synthetic nonwoven fabric. Instead of geotextiles, you can use cement screed 3-5 cm thick and leave it for 1 week until full setting. Such waterproofing will keep the sand cushion from erosion by groundwater and protect the reservoir from various mechanical damage.

Next, you need to line the bed of the reservoir with a film, leaving it in a free position, with folds, in order to avoid excessive tension when filling the reservoir with water. When laying the film on the bottom of the pond, it is better to leave large folds than many small ones.

A shock-absorbing material should be placed on top of the film - cobblestones and large pebbles to press the film to the base and fix it in the right places. Leave a margin of film around the edges.

Now you should connect the garden hose to the water source and supply it in the center of the film laid over the pit. The jet should be spray - this will help reduce the chlorine content in the water. The film will gradually smooth out, taking the shape of the structure.

In the process of filling the pond with water, you need to monitor the subsidence of the film, if necessary, moving the stones holding it.

After the pond is completely filled with water, you should leave it for a day, and then cut off the excess film, leaving a margin of 25-30 cm along its edges, which will be laid in the blind area.

Watch the DIY Film Pond video to better understand how this work is done:

Do-it-yourself film pond in the country: blind area and decoration

Along the edge of the pond, you will need to make a ditch at least 60 cm wide and at least 30 cm deep. Sand should be poured into the bottom of the ditch, the edge of the geotextile and the edges of the film should be laid, tucking them up. Then the recess should be covered with a thin layer of rubble and the edging of the pond should be strengthened with stones, fixing them together with concrete.

Here you can also use a flooring that resembles a stone in color, which must be firmly fixed so that a person, standing on the edge of the reservoir, does not move to the bottom along with sand and film.

Such strengthening is also done in order to prevent the shedding of earth from the coastal zone into the pond bowl. To strengthen the blind area, you can still use plastic pipes, nailing them to pegs that are firmly set along the coastline.

Now you need to install a submersible pump at the bottom of the pond, stretch the hose to the water source and connect it to the water filter. Hoses and pump cable can be hidden in foil folds.

After installing the pump, you need to connect it, check the operation.

At the design stage, you can plant pond plants using pots and baskets. Since the reservoir is equipped with a pump with a filter, real goldfish can be launched here.

If desired, you can install lamps to illuminate the pond by placing the wires in a moisture-proof box along the coastline, laying it on linoleum and filling it with sand on top.

The coastal zone can be decorated with gravel, pebbles, planted coastal plants, or you can build an alpine hill, especially since in this way it will be possible to use the earth from the pit.

Alpine slide is decorated with stones, various sun-loving flowers and plants.

next to your suburban area no lake or river? Do not be discouraged - in our time this "injustice" can be easily corrected. The creation of artificial reservoirs is one of the most popular areas of modern garden design. And for those owners of summer cottages who decide to organize a garden pond on their own, I offer a number of practical solutions and recommendations based on my own experience.

As a rule, the owners of large plots are not averse to pampering themselves with large-scale lakes with fountains, baths, and even fish splashing in them. If you need just such a water area, then it is better to invite specialists to create it. As for bulky stationary pools, our cold and rainy summer makes them little demanded structures. Without special purification systems, the water in them is very quickly polluted, and in the heat it heats up and begins to “bloom”. Therefore, today we will talk about the construction of "film" ponds - small, but quite suitable for growing water lilies and even fish (provided that your reservoir is deep enough).

Construction planning

The site for the construction of the pond should be as flat as possible, especially if you are doing this work for the first time. It is also desirable that during the hottest time of the day the water garden be in a light shade, otherwise the water will heat up quickly and may “bloom”. In addition, aggressive insects should not grow near the reservoir. perennial shrubs, for example, the Sakhalin mountaineer, since their roots are able to pierce through even a dense plastic film. A place near old trees, especially deciduous ones, is also not suitable, since their root system will interfere with construction, and falling leaves will create additional problems.

Advice

It is not required to fix the film on the bottom of the reservoir. The water pressure is enough to keep it in the right position.

For example, we once decided to expand the lower pond on our site, dug at the foot of an old spruce stump. In the process of work, it turned out that nothing had happened to its roots over the past ten years - they did not rot, did not crumble, and we had to take care of them for almost a week. They sawed off, uprooted, and the thickest roots even had to be cut down with an ax. So it is better to immediately choose a place where trees have never grown.

Having decided on the place of the future reservoir, we outline its contours. This can be done with sand, rope or twine. Then you need to think about the depth of the pond. In general, the deeper the reservoir, the easier it is to maintain water balance in it and the better the aquatic inhabitants feel in winter. The recommended depth is at least 0.7–1 m for water lilies and from 0.5 m if you want to breed fish.

Terracing and backfilling

After you decide on the construction site and outline the shape of the future reservoir, you will need to dig a foundation pit. Along the contour of the reservoir, it is desirable to make two terraces (steps) at least 20 cm wide. On them you can later install containers with plants of the coastal zone and lay stones that will decorate the film.

When building a "film" pond, it is very important to correctly calculate the ratio of its depth and the width of the selected film. The standard width of a double-folded polyethylene “sleeve”, as a rule, does not exceed 1.5 meters, but special materials for reservoirs are also on sale.

To determine the width and length of the film, measure the future pond with a rope or a long cord (the cord must be laid carefully, taking into account all the uneven terrain and leaving at least 20 cm for allowances at the edges).

Swamp water - salvation for the pond

And now, finally, the time has come to lay the film and pour water into our pond. Gently lower the film to the bottom of the pit, laying folds on it. Now straighten its edges and place a hose supplying water on the bottom. While the pond is filling, you need to carefully correct the folds of the film and make sure that under the pressure of the water it does not stretch, but lies freely.

Advice

Purchased water lilies and other deep-water plants do not immediately lower to the bottom of the reservoir. First set the container so that the bud at the end of the rhizome is a few inches below the water level and the leaves are floating on the surface. As soon as the plant begins to grow, it will be possible to gradually remove the stands and lower the basket to the bottom.

It is known that stagnant water "blooms" sooner or later - blue-green unicellular algae appear in it. And if your pond is not fed groundwater, it's really coming soon. However, this process can be stopped by adding water from the nearest natural reservoir (10–20 liters at a depth of up to 70 cm and a water surface area of about 2 m2) to the newly created pond. The fact is that natural water contains a huge number of protozoa that feed on algae. In addition, dragonfly larvae, swimming beetles, snails and many other living organisms live in it, which help maintain the pond's water balance in the norm.

So the pond is full. Now you can cut off the excess edges of the film around the perimeter and proceed with the placement decorative stones and plants. If your pond has the correct geometric shape, limestone slabs will look best. If you want to create a water garden in natural style, then a solid edging around the perimeter will not work. In order for the shores of such a reservoir to look beautiful and natural, it is necessary to select stones of different calibers and lay them not in a continuous chain, but alternate with plantings of plants in the coastal zone.

aquatic plants

Experts divide reservoirs into four vegetation zones: deep-water (bottom), shallow-water, swamp and coast. From these names, in principle, it is clear that bottom plants are planted at the very bottom of the pond, shallow and swamp plantings require more light, but are also located in the water, and coastal plants are already beyond the film boundary, on the shore.

Deep-water (bottom) plants take root in the ground, while their leaves and flowers float freely on the surface. This is a water lily, yellow capsule, aponogeton, marsh flower, orontium and others. Of course, water lilies have the greatest decorative effect. However, when buying these plants, it is worth remembering that different varieties are very different from each other in size, so the plants need to be chosen taking into account the area of its reservoir. Dwarf varieties, which are grown at a depth of no more than 40 cm, are placed in baskets in deeper reservoirs and placed on stands. By the way, landing in baskets is the best option for all plants in this zone - it is much more convenient to control their further growth.

Advice

Depending on the species, coastal plants are usually planted at a depth of 10-15 cm. They are unpretentious, they can easily be found in a natural reservoir or swamp and transplanted into your garden pond. All of them successfully grow without containers, right in the ground. Most of these plants are hygrophytes (easily tolerate both flooding and short-term lowering of the water level), so they can be cultivated in the marsh zone of the pond.

Landings must be mulched with gravel or sand (a layer of at least 2 cm). This helps to avoid washing out the soil and damaging the plants by fish.

Deep-sea species with floating leaves must be planted at some distance from each other, otherwise they will cover the entire surface of the water. This group includes common vodokras, duckweed various kinds, aloe-like telorez and eichornia, or water hyacinth. In addition to the above categories, oxygenator plants are often placed in the same zone to prevent water pollution. They absorb mineral salts and carbon dioxide, which serve as food for green algae and release oxygen. This is a swamp, water buttercup, hornwort, pondweed and turkey.

Shallow water plants are planted in the coastal zone. Their roots are in the ground under water at a depth of 5–50 cm, and most of escapes - in the air. Coastal shallow-water species play the role of a "bridge" between water and shore. These include marigold, three-leaf watch, marsh calla, iris iris and others. When creating a water garden, it must be borne in mind that the ripe fruits of calla - coral-red berries - are poisonous, and iris iris must be regularly divided.

Well, in the coastal zone, where the film separates the water border from the land, a wide variety of species can be planted. Ornamental moisture-loving plants with wide leaves are usually placed along the edge of the pond shore: large-leaved varieties of hosta, bergenia, fern and geranium.

Fish breeding

In small garden ponds, fish are usually not kept, as this can cause rapid growth of algae and waterlogging. Even for large bodies of water, there are some rules that must be followed.

Firstly, fish can be settled in a garden pond no earlier than a few weeks after planting, when the latter are fully established. Otherwise, planting containers will become a place where new inhabitants of the pond will try to find food or simply hide, as a result of which the plants will begin to float and may even die. Secondly, at least 50 liters of water should fall on 1 cm of the size of the fish. In this case, it must be borne in mind that plants also consume a certain amount of water, and small fish grow quite quickly.