How to attach a toilet to tiles: sequence of actions and working with tiles. The toilet is wobbly, how to strengthen it: simple effective methods Screed for the toilet

Sometimes you have to replace plumbing equipment without waiting for the apartment to be repaired. The slightest chip or crack can lead to serious consequences. And the quality of water, even with proper cleaning, leaves unsightly traces of rust. Installing a toilet with your own hands is quite possible for anyone. You can, of course, invite craftsmen from specialized services. However, installing it yourself saves a considerable amount in the family budget. The article selects the most detailed instructions and recommendations for choosing and replacing a toilet.

Read in the article:

Basics of proper planning of space in the toilet

To make the layout of the space in the restroom as comfortable as possible, it is important to adhere to some rules:

1. The distance from the side wall, washbasin or bathtub to the toilet should be at least 25 cm.
2. The distance in front of the toilet should be about 60 cm.

The layout will be affected by the size of the new plumbing, mounting options, drainage method and height of the toilet. Knowing how to properly install a toilet, you can begin to select and plan the placement of the rest of the plumbing in the restroom.

Basics of choosing the right toilet for your home

The optimal solution when replacing an old toilet is to choose similar equipment. It is important that the mounting principle and drainage location of the new equipment are identical to the old one. It is desirable that the drainage angle coincides with the outlet angle of the already installed sewer pipe. Otherwise, you will need to install additional corrugation or pipe fragments from the new toilet to the old connection.

Modern equipment can be classified into the following types:

Do-it-yourself toilet installation: basic nuances and recommendations

The process of installing a toilet with your own hands can be divided into several stages:

• selection of new equipment;
• dismantling the old;
• Repair, if necessary, the sewerage system or replace it individual elements. In addition, it may be necessary to replace the facing tiles;
• installation of a new toilet, connecting the tank to the water supply.

Let's look at the entire installation process step by step.

What tools are needed to install the toilet?

Before work you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• yardstick;
• adjustable wrench and wrench;
• flexible water hose;
• tape-fum;
• fasteners;
• silicone sanitary sealant.

To install the installation system, you will need additional tools and fasteners. The entire set can be easily purchased at any retail outlet that sells plumbing equipment.

Removing an old toilet

Replacing a toilet with your own hands can hide some difficulties. Let's look at the whole process step by step with recommendations for overcoming possible difficulties:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to shut off the water supply to the tank.
2. Drain the water from the tank and make sure that its supply is stopped.
3. Disconnect the drain hose.
4. Unscrew the fastenings of the tank to the toilet.
5. Unscrew the toilet fastenings to the floor.
6. Disconnect the bowl from the drain hole in the sewer pipe. If the equipment was installed a long time ago and the drain is coated with cement, use a hammer and screwdriver to destroy cement mortar. Before you disconnect the toilet, you must drain the water from the elbow. To do this, you need to tilt it several times in different directions.
7. After all the manipulations, the toilet bowl can be removed.
8. The sewer hole must be temporarily closed with a plug or cloth.

Preparing a new toilet for installation

Before installing the toilet on a tiled floor, you need to check the surface level. It should not have slopes or drops. If you are replacing the cladding or installing a toilet in a new room, you must first fill the screed level and finish it with tiles. It would also be a good idea to take an inventory of the sewer lines.

How to install a regular toilet with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

After the preparatory work has been completed, you can begin installing new equipment. Please read the instructions carefully beforehand:

Illustration	Description of work
	Assemble and secure the drainage system in the cistern. Before installation, coat the gasket with silicone.
	To install the toilet tank, first install the rubber gasket between them. Before fixing the tank, coat the bolts with silicone and install conical rubber washers.
	Then you need to screw the tube with the float. Securely fix it from below.
	Place the bowl in place. At the same time, you need to insert the corrugation into the sewer hole in order to take measurements and outline the leg of the product along the contour, mark the holes for the anchor bolts. The rubber seal of the corrugation and the toilet flush area can be coated with sealant for reliability.
	Using a drill, drill into the tiles corresponding to the diameter of the dowels included in the kit.
	To drill holes in the screed, you need to replace the drill in the hammer drill with a drill of the same diameter. To control it, you need to mark a strip along the length of the dowel with electrical tape.
	Drive dowels into the holes and install the equipment in place. Then fasten with screws with plastic spacers. When tightening with a wrench, you must be extremely careful, as you can damage the ceramic product. When finished, install plastic plugs on the screws.
	Connect the water supply hose last.
	It is necessary to check several times that the tank is full and that there are no leaks. On at this stage You can use the float to adjust the filling level of the tank for economical water consumption. After all the manipulations, screw the lid to the drain tank.
	To install the seat, you need to install gaskets on the brackets, secure them, insert them into the holes of the toilet and secure them with a special washer from below.

You can watch the entire process of installing a toilet with your own hands in the video:

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

The arrangement of a sanitary room can be done taking into account modern technologies and maximum comfort. For the most demanding owners, equipment with a hidden drain tank is offered. It fits perfectly into the latest interior solutions. You can choose a floor-standing model or a hanging frame installation. Installation of a toilet installation can be divided into 2 stages: installation cistern and installation of a toilet.

Installation of a wall-mounted toilet on an installation

Before installing the installation, it is necessary to make markings on the wall. To do this, use a tape measure and a level to determine the location of the central axis, then measure the perimeter of the installation from it. It is important that the distance from the edge of the tank to the wall is at least 135 mm. You should also mark the equipment attachment points. The level will help you accurately determine horizontal and vertical lines.

Related article:

To understand and how to choose wall hung toilet for it, in this article we will look at the features different types, selection criteria and several popular manufacturers of this type of equipment.

You should know! Installation of a built-in toilet with installation is only possible on a load-bearing wall.

After marking, you need to use a hammer drill to drill holes for future fastening. Then insert anchors into them and secure the base modular design. After installation, you need to check everything again with a level and level the system with height regulators and plugs.

Next, you can install the tank. Fastening should be done with special connections that were included in the equipment package. After which you can connect the system to the water supply. Using a plastic clamp, attach the sewer outlet and treat all connections with silicone.

To install a toilet with your own hands, you must perform the following steps:

• screw the pins into the pre-drilled holes;
• place couplings on the studs;
• check the pipes for compliance with the dimensions;
• before installing the bowl for shock absorption, you need to install a silicone or rubber gasket;
• install the equipment and inspect all connections for leaks;
• connect and secure the drain hose with clamps.

After installing the structure, it is important that the distance from the edge modular system to the wall surface did not exceed 210 mm. Otherwise, after installing the false panel, the length of the bolts will not be enough to secure the toilet.

Step by step process This video will demonstrate how to install a toilet correctly:

Installation of floor models

Do-it-yourself installation with a floor-standing toilet differs from a wall-hung one only in the way the bowl is installed:

• first of all, you should fix the position of the knee using metal fasteners;
• treat the outlet with silicone;
• install the equipment and mark the contour and holes on the floor;
• remove the bowl and install the corners according to the markings;
• place the bowl in place, carefully press the outlet into the pipe, fix the equipment to the floor using the bolts that were included in the kit;
• after installation, you can connect the tank in the same way as in the suspension system;
• at the final stage, insert the drain button into the hole prepared in advance on the panel.

You can watch the video below to assemble a floor-standing toilet with your own hands:

Basic types of floor fasteners

The bowl can be installed in several ways:

• when installed on a pedestal (tile) with 2 or 4 dowels. For reliability during installation, drip a little sealant into the holes and make a silicone cushion along the contour of the equipment;
• anchors installed in the floor screed during pouring. The method does not allow errors. It is important to select the required length of the anchor so that you can then screw the nut when installing the toilet;
• on a wooden base- this method was used in the old days. It should be borne in mind that the humidity in the bathroom is increased;
• on the corners that are fixed on the floor. Fastening is carried out through the side holes in the leg of the equipment;
• on glue. The floor surface is treated with sandpaper to increase adhesion, then it must be degreased with any solvent. Epoxy adhesive with a thickness of 4 mm or more is applied along the pre-applied contour of the equipment leg. The equipment is carefully installed, with the simultaneous alignment of the drain and sewer pipe. After 12 hours you can use the restroom.

The main types of fasteners to the wall

Wall-mounted equipment is attached only to the load-bearing surface of the wall using a metal frame. The flat cistern and pipe junction are located behind a false plasterboard panel. The metal frame and toilet are attached to anchors embedded in the load-bearing wall.

The main types of connecting the toilet to the sewer

To attach the bowl to the sewer you need to select pipeline fittings based on size and installation option. Fittings should be installed before the equipment is fixed to the floor. Let's look at the main connection options, their differences and installation recommendations.

Fan pipe or plastic pipe

A fan pipe is used when a vacuum can form in sewer system to prevent the water seal from breaking down and unpleasant odors from entering the room. Pipe installation is recommended in multi-storey buildings with a large number of water intake points.

Manufacturers offer eccentrics and pipe fittings with a check valve, which operate on a principle similar to the operation of a drain pipe.

It is made in the form of a single element. When selecting, it is important to select a product with a diameter that matches the connection point of the equipment. If not the right choice diameter, it is impossible to correct flaws.

Eccentric

The cuffs consist of 2 pipes with an offset center, connected by soldering. Using this connection, you can quickly and easily connect the toilet to the sewer. It is important to determine the required length before starting work.

A strong connection is ensured by the O-ring, so when connecting to plastic sewer there is no need to use additional sealant. It will be needed when connecting to cast iron pipes.

Eccentric collars are not suitable for every connection; if the joining elements are located at a large distance, it is recommended to use corrugation.

Corrugation

The corrugated collar is an ideal connection for complex and non-standard connections. Before installing the corrugation on the toilet, you need to choose a product of appropriate quality. The savings in this case will be insignificant, but the damage will be very noticeable. You can choose reinforced corrugation, this will significantly extend the service life.

How to connect a toilet to a sewer: connection features

Before assembling the toilet, you need to decide which form of release is preferable and whether the purchased toilet model matches it. It is important to know the features and nuances of connecting each release.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

This installation is possible in new houses or private housing, in which the pipes are laid under the floor. Vertical outlet eliminates the possibility of blockages and leaks. In addition, this design makes it possible to bring the equipment as close as possible to the wall.

Before installation, a special flange should be secured into the hole on the sewer pipe using dowels.

Important! The axis of the fixing elements must be perpendicular to the axis of the equipment bowl.

To prevent unpleasant odors from entering from the sewer, the sealing rubber should be lubricated with sealant. Then install and secure the toilet.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Connection using a horizontal outlet is similar to installation on a corrugated pipe. You can, as with the vertical one, bring the equipment as close as possible to the wall. Its main difference is that before installation it is necessary to install a rigid system that will connect the sanitary equipment to the sewer riser.

When installing the toilet, you will need the help of a second person so that when installing the pipe you do not displace the elements of the sewer system. Before starting work, you need to install the toilet in place, mark the locations of the fasteners, then remove it and drill holes of the required diameter using a hammer drill. After that, install the dowels and put the bowl in place.

Lubricate the pipe and the opening of the sewer pipe with sealant. Before installing the fastener, it is necessary to make several test drains to determine leakage.

In modern apartments, instead of a rigid connection, corrugated connections are more often used. It is more mobile; it can be used to move structures without installing additional reinforcement.

Bowl with oblique release

Its installation is easiest to do with an assistant. The installation is similar to a horizontal outlet with a pipe. It is necessary to first mark, then drill holes, install dowels, put the bowl in place and secure it. If a leak occurs after a test drain, it is necessary to lubricate the connections with silicone again and leave for a while until completely dry. Thanks to the 45° slope, the possibility of leaks is reduced.

Connecting water to the toilet cistern

After fixing the tank to the toilet, you need to connect the water. Before starting work, it is recommended to install a shut-off valve to regulate the water supply to the tank, with the help of which, in the event of work, you can repair the equipment without damaging other water points in the apartment.

Then screw the flexible hose to the outlet of the tank and to the pipe central water supply. You can use special sealants or fum tape to ensure the strength of the connection.

Estimated prices for installation work

In order to choose an installation company, you can seek help from a service organization or a company that does plumbing work. It is important to conclude an agreement and specify warranty periods for installation work.

Here are the approximate prices for basic bathroom refurbishment work:

Additionally, you may need funds for preliminary consultation, replacement of sewer pipes and adjustment of equipment. The total amount in the end is not small. Self-installation significantly saves personal funds, which can be invested in purchasing more quality equipment.

Conclusion

Modern housing is simply impossible to imagine without such plumbing equipment as a toilet. Like any household item, it tends to age and fail, so sooner or later every homeowner is faced with the need to replace it.

Since attaching the toilet to the floor must be carried out in strict accordance with certain rules, many owners are hesitant to take on such work and prefer to entrust the matter to professionals, whose services are not cheap.

In fact, this process does not require any special knowledge at all and can be done even by a novice master. Here's how to do this kind of work correctly: with my own hands, and what features this procedure has, we will consider in the article.

Fastening methods

Modern toilets come in several varieties. Some are attached to the floor, others to the back wall of the room. The location of the barrel, the shape of the bowl and the method of draining the water may also differ.

It will be very difficult to talk about each type in detail, so we will consider the most popular option - a compact floor-standing toilet. It is this type that is most often found today in apartments and various in public places, which means that questions regarding its installation are extremely relevant.

You should immediately pay attention to the fact that fixing the toilet to the floor can be done in several ways, which differ in the method of fixation ceramic product. Namely:

Using a standard mounting kit (which is included in the kit);

On glue;

On taffeta;

For cement.

The choice of one option or another depends on the base material on which it is planned. But the preparatory work is the same in all cases.

Pliers, screwdriver.

Toilet installation

The technology for installing a toilet using self-tapping screws involves performing the following work:

1. The product is installed on permanent place and mark the holes for the bolts.

2. Use a special drill to drill holes in the tiles. Next, using a drill, they are deepened to the length of the plastic dowel.

3. After making sure that the fastening points are drilled without displacement, dowels are driven into them.

4. The sewer hole is cleared of debris, coated with silicone and a corrugation is inserted into it.

This is necessary to prevent leakage into the room. unpleasant odors from the pipe. In addition, the sealing rubber may dry out over time, and then water will begin to ooze out at the pipe junction.

6. Toilet fasteners are inserted into the holes. The product is pulled to the base until it becomes as stable and motionless as possible.

7. Fill all the cracks between the tiles and the toilet with a pre-prepared cement mortar (the consistency of soft clay). The absence of gaps will protect the product from cracks and premature failure.

8. Install the tank. A special gasket is placed on the toilet shelf, a ceramic tank is installed and tightened with bolts.

Points worth paying attention to

When installing the toilet, the tiles cannot be drilled with a hammer drill operating in impact mode. This will certainly lead to the fact that cracks will go along the tile. The work is carried out using a special drill, at low speeds. Both the tile and the drill need to be periodically moistened with water. This will help keep the tile from overheating and prevent it from splitting.

The fixing screw must be screwed in very carefully. To avoid splitting the toilet, tighten the bolts evenly, no more than half a turn per hand movement.

Do not pull the product to the floor without plastic washers. Their absence will lead to the formation of chips or a complete split of the toilet bowl.

Glue mounting

Fastening the toilet to the floor with glue or cement is considered safer and simpler, but in this case, subsequent dismantling of the earthenware product will be very difficult. If there is a need to eliminate complex blockages in a sewer pipe or simply change the layout of the bathroom, it will be impossible to do this quietly and quickly.

The use of glue requires careful preparation of the base. All dirt and dust must be removed from the floor. If the toilet is installed on a tile, it should be cleaned (to make it rough) and both surfaces (toilet and tile) should be treated with a degreaser or acetone.

The prepared mass is applied to the inside of the toilet seat (a layer of about 4 mm). The product is installed in its permanent place, pressed tightly and left for at least 12 hours. After the final hardening of the glue, they begin to connect the toilet bowl.

Installation on cement

Let's consider another alternative method by which you can install floor-mounted toilets. Reviews from experts say that if there is no suitable glue at hand, installation of earthenware can be done using cement mortar.

For this you will need 3-5 kg ​​of cement, sand and a small container. The work is performed in the following order:

The floor is cleared of debris. If the toilet is to be installed on a tile, a notch is made in it.

The cement mortar is mixed. If there is sand available, both components are taken in a 1:1 ratio; if there is no sand, you can only get by with cement.

The cement mass is laid out on the floor, and a toilet is installed on top of it. The product is pressed tightly to the floor.

Excess cement covers the outlet of the toilet bowl and the place where it connects to cast iron pipe. If sewage pipe made of plastic, using a cuff and silicone sealant.

Installation on taffeta

This method is most often used in rooms with wooden floors. A lining made of durable types of wood is used as taffeta, which is mounted between the floors and the earthenware product.

The thickness of the substrate should be between 28-32 mm. To prevent taffeta from quickly becoming unusable under the influence of dampness, it is impregnated with drying oil. IN construction stores can be purchased already ready product. Most often on sale you can find taffeta made from thick oak boards or rubber.

The substrate is fixed to the base using thick screws or glue. For maximum reliability, anchors can be attached to the back side of the lining. You can also drive several nails in a staggered pattern. The tips of the nails should protrude outward by at least 3 centimeters.

The niche for installing the toilet is filled with concrete and a wooden lining is installed there so that it is level with the floors.

The toilet is installed on the fixed base. It is tightened to the base using standard fastening bolts, in the manner that we described at the beginning of this article.

Cost of work

To conclude the topic, I would like to touch on the financial component of this issue. Indeed, for many, repair work seems too troublesome and tedious, so they prefer to entrust this task to real professionals. In this case, all you need to do is find a company that provides services such as toilet installation. Price for work experienced craftsmen depends on the methods of fixing the plumbing.

Most companies install toilets only using standard fasteners. The cost of this service (depending on the city of residence) starts from 1200 rubles and reaches 3000 rubles.

Beginning private craftsmen can offer a cheaper price tag, but in this case the quality of the work will be in question. Therefore, if you cannot afford such expenses, the optimal solution would be self installation toilet. In this case, there will be no price for the work, and purchasing the necessary materials will not require you to spend a lot of money.

We hope that in this article you have found all the answers to your questions. Quick and easy repairs for you!

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor can be done in several ways, depending on the design of the plumbing fixture. Before starting installation, you should carefully study the instructions, prepare the necessary tools and carry out preparatory work.

In most cases, you can carry out the procedure yourself without the help of specialist plumbers.

After completion of the installation work, water supply is also carried out. It is also important to follow a certain algorithm of actions.

Preparation for installation work

Preparatory stage consists of the following steps:

• choice suitable place the location of plumbing in the toilet, the creation of markings;
• sewerage and water supply outlet. The ends of the pipes should be approximately 13-16 cm from the surface so that the device can be connected to communications;
• If a room is being renovated, you first need to lay tiles and then begin installing the plumbing. Otherwise, you will need to cut out tiles floor the required form of the pedestal.

After preparation has been completed, you need to prepare the necessary tools.

Tools and materials

To install on tile floors, you will need the following tools:

• a marker, pencil or chalk to mark the outline of the base on the tile or floor;
• a drill designed for ceramics and a drill for plastic dowels;
• means - sealant to ensure waterproofing;
• standard set of screwdrivers;
• drill or perforator;
• core for stripping the top layer of tiles;
• wrench and adjustable wrench;
• bolts for attaching the toilet to the floor;
• pliers;
• grinding machine with diamond wheel;
• connecting hose;
• tap;
• an adhesive (for example, liquid nails), if you plan to use method No. 3 to attach plumbing fixtures to a heated tiled floor;
• plastic dowels;
• plastic spacers for bolts;
• spatula to remove any remaining sealant or adhesive.

Methods of fixing to a tiled floor

There are several options for installation, which differ in labor intensity and technology, they depend on the model of the plumbing fixture. It should be noted that all the procedures described below are not very complicated, but to carry them out correctly, it is imperative to follow the exact instructions.

To perform the last method, which involves adhesive fastening of the toilet, it is advisable to have at least a little experience in repairs. If you have no experience, you can first practice on a small part of the tile.

If the tiles on the bathroom floor are very expensive, then it is advisable to entrust the installation of the toilet to specialists. Otherwise, in the process of work, you may accidentally damage the floor covering.

Types of toilet sink mounting and corresponding installation method:

• Method No. 1 - used for vertical arrangement of fasteners, dowels are used in the process;
• Method No. 2 - when placing the fasteners on the side, the toilet is fastened to the floor with corner brackets;
• Method No. 3 – use of an adhesive in the presence of a system of heated floors and communications under the floor covering.

Method No. 1 - with vertical arrangement of fasteners

This method of installing a plumbing fixture on a tile floor is the least labor intensive. It is suitable for models that have ready-made mounting holes at the bottom. Installation instructions:

1. The optimal location for placing the plumbing fixture is determined, taking into account the distance from the drain to the entrance to the sewer. This length will be required when selecting a corrugated pipe connecting the toilet to the sewer.
2. The contours of the selected installation location should be marked on the tile with a marker or chalk, and the location of the factory holes for fastening to the floor should also be marked. It is important that the product is installed strictly perpendicular to the floor, because otherwise, the risk of slight displacement of the toilet during fastening increases.
3. At those points that were marked on the tile in the previous step, use a core to knock down the tile covering to prevent the tool from accidentally slipping while performing the procedure. It is advisable to moisten the area where the stuffing will take place, this will help make the work more accurate.
4. After the holes for the fasteners have been made with a drill, the plumbing is installed. If there are no problems and the location is satisfactory, the toilet is removed and a special sealant is applied along the marked contour. The use of such a product will avoid the formation of water puddles under the toilet. The fastening holes must also be filled with sealants to make the fastening more dense and reliable, as well as to ensure waterproofing of the concrete screed.
5. The plumbing fixtures are being installed along the contour. Then the fasteners are carefully tightened so as not to displace the product. The sealant, which will certainly be squeezed out under the weight of the toilet, must be removed immediately with a spatula.
6. The sealant strip is decorated by grouting.
7. and corrugated pipe, plumbing is connected to the sewer system and cold water supply pipeline.

Method No. 2 – for side placement, fastening to the floor with corner brackets

This method involves installing plumbing fixtures in which the fastening components are hidden. This procedure is more complicated than the previous one, since it should be performed only in accordance with a clear algorithm of actions. The main difference is the location of the sewer drain as close as possible to the toilet.

Instructions for attaching the toilet to the floor:

1. Unlike the previous method, in this option First of all, it is recommended to carry out all pipe laying work. It is best if this is done before laying the tiles as flooring.
2. The plumbing is installed without fastening; a contour is drawn on the floor and marks are placed showing the points of the fastening elements.
3. The lower component of the toilet (the so-called “hidden mount”) is mounted on the floor. Plumbing fixtures are fixed using corner brackets. The fasteners must be wrapped one at a time, not forgetting to constantly monitor compliance with the contour. This will allow for rigid installation and prevent even minimal movement of the plumbing fixture.
4. The upper component of the product is installed into the already installed lower one, and then securely fixed through the ready-made side holes of the toilet. At the stage of connecting the sewer communication, adjustments can be made.

After complete installation of the product and checking the quality of installation, the elements used for fastening to the floor are closed with special decorative plugs (so that these parts do not stand out from the interior design). The procedure is of medium complexity and requires extreme care and accuracy.

Method number 3 - use sealant

Quite often in bathrooms a “warm floor” system is installed on electric or water based, so you cannot drill individual mounting holes. This can lead to significant disruption of functioning, because There is an increased risk of damage to cables or waterproofing.

In such a situation, the only way out is to use products based on construction adhesive. To attach the toilet to the floor on tiles, the following materials can be used: liquid nails, some silicone mixtures, resins.

Algorithm for installing a toilet on a tiled floor:

1. Place the plumbing fixture and mark the outline of its base on the tile.
2. The surface layer of the tile is carefully cleaned off using a diamond wheel or other similar tool. The resulting roughness will ensure reliable adhesion to the toilet base. A similar procedure is performed with the toilet.
3. At a distance of 3-4 mm from the created contour, a layer of adhesive is applied so that the main part of it is preserved directly under the pedestal. Any substance squeezed out after installation must be immediately removed with a spatula. If this is not done, after hardening the adhesive can only be removed together with the ceramic tiles.

The procedure for attaching components to the toilet, connecting to the sewerage system and water supply

Connections to the water supply also vary in type, depending on the design of the toilet:

• in the presence of internal system For water supply connection, a flexible hose or a special copper tube is used. As a rule, when sold, such elements come complete with parts for fastening to the floor, but it is advisable to clarify this point with a consultant separately. Sometimes it happens that the tap thread and the thread on the copper tube, then you will need an adapter and sealing elements;
• With an external water supply system, the connection is easiest. Typically, no additional parts are required.

Regardless of the method of connecting to the water supply, all connections should be coated with special sealants for plumbing fixtures to ensure waterproofing and minimize the risk of leakage.

Common Mistakes

If the technician did not follow the algorithm when installing the toilet on the tile floor, the result may be improper functioning of the plumbing fixture, damaged waterproofing (leaks) and the spread of an unpleasant odor in the room.
Watch the video

Common mistakes when installing on tiles:

1. Uneven position of the toilet - to avoid this, it is important to use a building level at every stage. The absence of the leveling step can lead to a violation of the waterproofing and damage to the plumbing.
2. Insufficient treatment of joints with silicone-based sealants. The product should also be applied to the contour of the corrugation and pedestal of the toilet. The result of this error, most often, is the formation of puddles under the equipment or drain pipe.

1. When renovating a bathroom, sometimes some debris gets into the installed toilet. Before connecting the pipeline, it is important to check all components of the structure to ensure that there are no foreign objects. Otherwise, it may lead to a clogged toilet.
2. Insufficient sealing of the tank valves or their damage can lead to tank leakage after a certain time.

Thus, you can install the toilet on the tile floor yourself. Depending on the design of the model, the appropriate installation method is determined.

After installation, a problem may occur; see common causes and methods for eliminating them.

When carrying out the procedure, it is important to strictly follow the instructions, then the installation will be carried out efficiently. It should be noted that if the apartment owner is not sure about own strength, it is better to entrust installation work to professionals.

Watch the video

The toilet is an integral element of the plumbing unit in any apartment or private house. Installing a toilet is not a complicated process, but it does require some care and some skills. Understanding the mechanism of the cistern and how it is assembled from individual parts is only half or even a third of the battle. In addition to this and connecting to engineering networks, the plumber needs to securely secure the toilet in the toilet. Do you want to know how it goes to the floor, as well as other operations on its arrangement? Here you will find out how you can do this.

Types of toilets

Before moving directly to the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor, let’s consider what types of this plumbing product exist. They are classified among themselves according to a number of criteria:

• bowl and tank design;
• release direction;
• material of manufacture;
• dimensions and weight of the product.

Let's start with the design of the toilet tank and bowl - the main types of plumbing fixtures that differ in this respect are presented in the table below.

Table. Main types of toilets by design.

Types of toilets according to the type of connection to the sewer. The horizontal outlet is suitable for those toilets where the waste pipe is hidden behind a plasterboard wall. The vertical design is considered obsolete today, but previously it was used in those houses where the sewage system was laid in the interfloor ceilings. Oblique outlet is often used in panel apartment buildings

Toilets are made from the following materials:

• faience– cheap and fragile, service life is approximately 15 years;
• porcelain– more expensive than earthenware, but stronger, more beautiful and more durable;
• reinforced acrylic– light, strong and durable, but does not survive contact with high temperatures well;
• steel – strong material, suitable for the toilet in a public place.

Now let's move on to how to fix the toilet to the floor:

• fastening the toilet with dowels;
• fixing the toilet with glue or sealant;
• installation on cement;
• fixing the toilet on taffeta;
• installation of plumbing on a frame hidden behind a false wall.

Toilet prices

Fixing the toilet to the floor with dowels

The most common way to install a toilet on a toilet floor is with dowels and bolts. This is a practical and relatively simple method, but it has two problems. First - you need to drill the tile. This event requires special care and precision - any mistake will lead to damage to the floor covering. The second problem with attaching plumbing fixtures to dowels is that this installation method is designed for relatively light products. Therefore, if you have a heavy toilet, it is better to use glue.

But let's return to the dowels and screws - in order to use them to secure the toilet to the floor yourself, you will need the following tools:

• tape measure;
• marker or pencil for marking;
• electric drill;
• drill bit for concrete (preferably a spare tool);
• a rag or microfiber cloth;
• ammonia.

In some cases, you may also need sealant and a glue gun, or a small sheet of linoleum. And now we will describe step by step the process of attaching the toilet bowl to the floor with dowels.

Step 1.“Try on” the toilet by pre-installing it in the place where it should be. Evaluate how convenient it is to use and the connection points of the water supply to the tank. Try shaking the toilet bowl - you need to determine whether the floor underneath is level.

Important! If the floor is not level enough and the toilet bowl is swaying, then before fixing the plumbing fixtures to dowels, you need to put a sheet of linoleum under it, cut along the contour of the bowl support. But there is also Alternative option– joint processing silicone sealant. And in some cases, the problem may not be with the floor, but with the toilet itself. In this case, the support of the product is cleaned and leveled with emery cloth.

Step 2. Using a tape measure, determine the location where the toilet should be more accurately. Make preliminary marks in the holes for fasteners.

Step 3. Remove the toilet from this place and make fairly large and noticeable marks in the form of crosses from the pre-marked dots.

Step 4. Prepare a drill with a concrete drill bit. Start by drilling holes in the tiles. In this case, the drill should operate at low speeds, and all work should be done extremely carefully so that cracks and other damage to the tiles do not occur in the process.

Step 5. Then complete the holes, but in concrete floor. Either set the drill to higher speeds, or replace it with a hammer drill, which will cope with a similar task much better.

Step 6. Clean the tiles where the toilet is installed from dust and other contaminants formed during drilling holes for dowels. Also, do not forget to degrease the surface using ammonia.

Step 7 Insert dowels into the previously drilled holes.

Step 8 Check whether the bolts from the toilet bowl fit into the dowels properly. If for some reason you are not satisfied with their quality, replace the fasteners with your own.

Step 9 Reinstall the toilet. Check whether the holes in the tile are aligned with those in the bowl support of the sanitary ware.

Step 10 Insert the bolts into the dowels through the holes in the toilet support. Don't forget about plastic or rubber washers. Tighten the bolts, but be careful - when tightening there is a risk of damaging the toilet itself. The last thing to do is cover the fastener caps with decorative plastic covers. After this, fixing the toilet to the floor with dowels with your own hands can be considered complete.

You may be interested in information on how to replace

In terms of popularity, this method of installing a toilet can compete with installing plumbing fixtures using dowels and screws. Here, specialized construction adhesives are used, purchased in the appropriate stores, or mixtures based on epoxy resin, prepared independently. Also, very often, ordinary silicone sealant is used to fix the toilet.

The popularity of this method of installing plumbing products is due to its certain advantages.

1. Clean installation– when placing the toilet on the glue, no dust or dirt is formed. There is no need to spend energy cleaning the bathroom later.
2. Safety– in the process of installing a toilet using glue, there is virtually no risk of damaging the plumbing product or tiles on the toilet floor.
3. Simplicity– in the previous fastening method, to successfully drill tiles you need to have some experience in the repair business. Here you won’t need it - you just need to know how to handle a glue gun.
4. Reliability– a toilet installed with glue or sealant will not wobble.

It should be understood that this method of installing plumbing will require some patience - after installing the toilet on the glue, it cannot be used for 12-20 hours.

To attach the plumbing fixtures to the floor you will need the following materials and tools:

• tape measure and square;
• marker or pencil;
• glue gun;
• narrow spatula;
• small rag;
• spray bottle with soap solution;
• emery cloth;
• ammonia;
• glue or silicone sealant for attaching the toilet.

Let's present it to the floor with our own hands in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Perform a preliminary “try-on” of the toilet in the toilet - place it on a piece of cardboard so as not to accidentally damage the tiles and imagine how to install this plumbing product in the best way. Consider whether it is comfortable for you to sit on it, how difficult it is to provide access to the sewerage system and connecting the water supply to the tank.

Step 2. Using a corner or tape measure, center the toilet. Note how many centimeters the plumbing should be set back from the left and right walls of the toilet, respectively.

Step 3. Remove the cardboard from under the toilet and re-align it with the walls of the toilet. To do this, use, as in the previous step, a tape measure or a corner.

Important! When aligning the toilet bowl with respect to the walls of the toilet, do not forget about the tank - it should also be positioned as level as possible. Check whether the holes with which both parts of the plumbing product will be connected to each other in the future are aligned.

Step 4. Using a marker or pencil, outline the part of the toilet bowl that is adjacent to the toilet floor.

Step 5. Using a knife or emery cloth sand the edge of the toilet support so that it becomes perfectly smooth and provides better “adhesion” to the glue.

Interesting! In some cases, it is justified to sand the part of the tile to which the toilet bowl support will adjoin. But at the same time, be careful - do not go beyond the edge of the line marked in one of the previous stages with the abrasive and do not spoil the tile.

Step 6. Treat the tiles where the toilet is installed with ammonia to degrease the surface. Then wipe dry with a microfiber cloth.

Step 7 Carefully apply glue or silicone sealant (as in this case) to the edge of the toilet bowl support. The composition should be exactly as much as necessary - if there is a shortage, the attachment of the plumbing product to the floor will be fragile, and if there is an excess, there is a chance of staining the tiles.

Step 8 Transfer the toilet with the glue applied to the bowl support into the toilet and carefully lower it to the place marked with a marker in one of the previous steps. It is advisable to do this work not alone, but with an assistant - otherwise there is a high risk of smearing the tiles next to the plumbing fixtures with glue or sealant and securing the product in a way that is not required.

Step 9 Use a spray bottle to spray the area around the toilet support with soapy water. This is necessary so that when cutting off excess sealant, the latter does not stick to the tile.

Step 10 Wet the spatula with the same soap solution that was discussed in the previous step of attaching the toilet to the floor. Then use this tool to remove any remaining adhesive or sealant.

Step 11 Allow some time, 12 to 24 hours, for the glue, sealant, or other compound you used to secure the toilet to set and dry. Until this time, it is undesirable to somehow move or even touch the plumbing fixtures. , You can read in our article.

Step 12 After the adhesive composition has finally set on the tile, continue installing the toilet - connect the plumbing to the sewer, and connect the water supply to it, attach a seat with a lid to the product, etc.

Important! As mentioned above, you can prepare the glue for attaching the toilet to the floor yourself. To do this, heat 20 parts of epoxy resin to +50°C, then add 4 parts of solvent and 7 parts of hardener to it. Mix them and then add 40 parts of cement. Mix everything again until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The product should be used as glue as soon as possible - after 1.5-2 hours the mixture will lose its properties and begin to harden.

Video - Fixing a toilet with silicone

Other methods of installing a toilet

In addition to those indicated in the previous sections, there are other ways to fix the toilet to the floor. However, for one reason or another, they are less popular. Let's do a brief overview.

Previously, a very popular way to fix a toilet was to wall it up with concrete - a small depression was made in the floor, plumbing was installed there and its lower part was covered with mortar. Very often, products installed in this way can be found in old multi-storey buildings (if the residents did not carry out the installation). Fastening in a similar way It is quite reliable and relatively easy to implement.

But the method has two extremely serious problems. The first is the unattractive appearance of the joint between the toilet installed in this way and the floor. The second problem with fixing plumbing fixtures to concrete is the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the product without damage. In fact, in order to remove a toilet installed in this way, you will have to break it. Therefore, with the advent of modern construction glues and sealants, the method lost its relevance.

Another outdated method of attaching a toilet to the floor is using taffeta. It is a wooden support about 5 cm high, installed in a recess with concrete mortar. A large number of nails or anchors are installed on the underside of the taffeta. With their help, a wooden substrate, immersed in a recess, is fixed in concrete mortar. And only then the toilet bowl is installed on the taffeta itself and secured with screws.

Important! When installing plumbing fixtures on a wooden base, remember that the toilet and bathroom are rooms with high humidity. Do not forget to treat the taffeta with drying oil or varnish so that it does not become damp and deteriorate too quickly.

And the last way to fix the toilet, but not entirely related to the floor - suspended installation. In this case, a metal frame is built near the wall of the toilet (most often included with wall-mounted plumbing fixtures). The toilet bowl is connected to it and produced. At the same time, the frame itself and the tank of the sanitary ware are hidden behind a false wall made of plasterboard and tiles. The result is a compact and beautiful mount. But implementing this method requires a lot of time and money.

The choice of the methods presented above for attaching the toilet to the floor depends only on your personal preferences. In order for your toilet to last longer, we advise you to purchase. In any case, if you approach the matter wisely and carry out the installation correctly, your plumbing fixtures will last for many years and will remain firmly in place.

Scheme for attaching a toilet using taffeta

Epoxy is the best adhesive for toilet bowls

Completion involves: 1. Selecting and purchasing a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Preparing the surface for fastening; 4. Installation of a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of the above points are interconnected, they can be said to be inseparable.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You should read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result will be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and purchasing a toilet

Toilets are divided:

By purpose

- children's (small dimensions, decorated with various colors, the use is common in preschool institutions)
– for people with disabilities (handrails, armrests are added, they have a wide bowl, are adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- suspended
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By release

- oblique (at an angle)
— horizontal (into the wall)
— vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
- hi-tech

According to case material

- San faience
- san porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

To install the tank

- mounted
- on the toilet
- hidden
The tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally by color

Here, as they say, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can even find gray Burmaline.

I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important ones, in my opinion, for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl outlet, and the double tank drain mode.

Direction of outlet from the toilet

Look at how your sewer pipe intended for the toilet is located; it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model whose release is most coaxial with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free space of the bathroom.
In the photo visually what I'm talking about:
Agree that in this case a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable; it would be at least two hundred to three hundred millimeters closer to the wall. I have encountered such situations more than once, and not even twice; during my career I installed a “car and a small cart” toilets. You come to order, and there the toilet has already been purchased, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is completely impossible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not even think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - a usable area.
But then, once you read the article, do not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when purchasing, unpack the box and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities, both the tank and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the outlet of the toilet bowl, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: seat, floor (wall) mount. If the equipment is without a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

If a defect is visually detected, refuse the purchase; believe me, it will be very disappointing to notice puddles gathering on the floor after installing the device. Consider all the work to be a waste.
Buy here flexible liner(hose) for connecting to a water pipe. If you do not have a tap that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend purchasing and installing one.

Toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come complete with a toilet, I think you can decide for yourself which option is most suitable for you - mounted, mounted on the toilet, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the drainage of water. I don’t see any point in explaining when which displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The efficiency of water consumption is obvious.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it’s a burden to do without it for a long time, so this work it is advisable to start in the morning, in order to have time in case you need to purchase any part, the shops then work until a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing- make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On toilets, you don’t have to remove the compact, but we’ll send it to the trash heap as is. We examine the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the toilet outlet is usually embedded with concrete, we make sure that there are no cracks, if they are present, then we dismantle with care.

We unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. We can’t loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of the hammer in close proximity to the socket, the blows are not strong, but it’s not good to be liberal here.
We split it, removed the pot, and took out the whole thing. To avoid injury from fragments of earthenware, sweep the bathroom.

Second step- chasing a cast-iron bell, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Having put on goggles, we get rid of foreign materials without cunning manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly you clean inner surface socket, the less likely it is to leak in this place during the operation of a newly installed toilet.
We strive for this result:

But what if such a “surprise” awaits us - an additional rise? And it is necessary to remove it, well, "blood from the nose", but we are pursuing the goal - installing the toilet bowl professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I’ll say right away, get ready to sweat and be nervous. But... the eyes are afraid, but the hands do.

Attention

In no case do we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where we would like it. Violating this rule can lead to costly and time-consuming problems.

To help, we take a puncher with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “hollow-drill” mode, we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the pipe - the insert.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow for free drilling, in this case we cut it off with a grinder and place it in close proximity to the bell, but remember: by cutting it off you lose the opportunity to loosen it, so to speak, therefore we resort to this in as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn.

Burning is appropriate if the cavity was caulked or filled with sulfur; if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.

Before starting burning, we ensure that the room is sufficiently ventilated and that there are no flammable products or materials nearby. The video will clearly show how this is done:

If it doesn’t help, then there is only one option left to get rid of this damn stick: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder) or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the stand at the bell itself, visually find the thin place of the “remainder” and aim specifically at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying to cut along the entire length of the “remnant”, that is, there, deep into it. You can cut out a fragment like a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then, by tapping with a hammer, tear off the remaining piece from its “home” place. If you continue to have difficulties with removal, you can also make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the caulking is over.

Guys, if anyone has encountered such difficulties, but does not have the skills to use an angle grinder, then here is a link to a photo gallery, found on the Internet, everything step by step:
Disassembling cast iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And what awaits us next step.

Preparing the surface for fastening

The toilet was installed on a hard surface - great, but we will look at the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor; in the old days, it was on it that the toilet was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it is rotten, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a hammer drill, in general, you will sort out this issue. Remove the taffeta and clean the released cavity. Place the involved instrument aside.

We mix a solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part cement to four parts sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part cement to three parts sand, the goal is faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution evenly with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait for it to set, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed practically every hour.
Each apartment has a stove, be it electric or gas, take the baking sheet out of the oven and place it on top of the cemented area.

Have a broom handy? We sweep away the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next stage.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close to the sewer as possible, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This doesn’t always work out, just below I’ll post pictures of fittings that you can “play with.” For now, let's look at the connection directly.
We will connect it with the pipe shown in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or just water, put it on the outlet neck, put a mark on the outlet to what depth the pipe has sat and remove it.
We place the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using our imagination, draw the trajectory of the coaxiality of the toilet outlet and the inlet sewer. By moving the device further or moving it closer, we achieve the best compatibility - this is especially true when the bell is at an angle. Have you achieved it? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without resting against the wall.
We take a tape measure and place the beginning deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was placed from the fitting of the pipe on the neck there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, chamfering it at the place of the cut. That's it, the connecting part is ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110*123, coat it on the outside, and coat the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer and hammer the cuff inside the socket.
There’s also this point: before applying the smear, place the cuff in place and make sure that it will fit; it may be necessary to cut out a small fragment from it, full size doesn't fit. If this is the case, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the socket.
Next: coat the cuff driven into the tee from the inside with sealant, press the pipe until it stops. We coat the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All the pot is in place.

He promised a picture of the parts used for misalignment, this is what they look like:

If it’s impossible to do without this, then head to a specialized store that sells plumbing fixtures. There are also corrugated toilet pipes on sale, there are reinforced and non-reinforced, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not perfect option connections.

At the beginning of the article I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it to the exit water pipe for the tank, if not, now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints; if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

Let's move on to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

The new toilet comes with instructions, study it and assemble the tank in accordance with it; if all the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure it is tight and tighten it if necessary. Don’t be too zealous; after all, you’re dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of different manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drainage device (some have dual-mode and are adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, assemble according to the instructions. I’ll just tell you one thing: at the junction of the tank with the toilet there is a gasket, so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially we don’t smear it. We put the tank on and tighten it to the toilet with the mounting bolts provided for this purpose, tighten it alternately, with uniform force.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail how to set up the various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible line, tightening the hose fitting on the tank inlet device and hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent the fittings from touching both each other and the walls of the tank.

Open the tap and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and float are adjusted, using simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float shuts off the water until it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the release button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the connections:
— flexible connection with an inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- cistern with toilet through gasket
- bolts securing the tank to the toilet using conical gaskets
— outlet (neck) of the toilet with a pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with cuff
- cuffs with sewer tee socket
- toilet and baking tray

If you conscientiously follow the steps described above, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If the presence of leaks and puddles has been visually determined, it is natural to eliminate them.

Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many plumbing gurus, advise not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of getting everything dirty or “hand-to-hand” - nonsense. The explanation is simple: when coated, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its proper place.
So, if a leak is detected from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface where the gasket adheres to the toilet and the gasket itself. Coat one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put it in place, lightly press down along the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to “set” - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and carefully place the tank in its place and tighten it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin stream of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Having looked inside the tank, we make sure that the edge of the water does not reach the upper boundary of the overflow tube; if this is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
— the cone gasket located under the pressure nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
— the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the seat gasket contact areas are rough; coating the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- crack in the seat body;
— uneven fit of the “pear” to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.

Well, let’s not talk about the sad things, they pressured us, everything is fine with us. The only task left is to secure our toilet to the floor.

You will have to do this after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before this, of course, we use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
Turn off the water, lower the tank, slightly lift the toilet, and pull out the baking sheet. We position the toilet, if it has been accidentally moved, mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We move the toilet to the side, drill holes with a hammer drill, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and screw them on. We attract without using much effort.

In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is an excellent piece of linoleum.
To avoid unsanitary conditions - accumulation of small particles of debris, coat the area where the toilet bowl meets the floor along the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Tools used during installation:

So, theoretically, we have completed the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of ​​the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
— hammer drill with 5-6 mm drill
— for those who do not have the skills to use, we replace the grinder with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape

The following articles may be useful for successfully completing the work described:

Well, that’s all, dear reader, do you still want to install the toilet yourself? I told you how installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with this, maybe it’s easier to pay a plumber a third of the cost of the pot, and calmly drink beer in front of the TV??
And then I see tons of articles on the Internet, like, install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should mind their own business and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

If you have any questions or have something to add to the article, you are welcome to add them to the comments section.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles, the form will open when you scroll to the bottom of the page, I assure you there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that’s all for me today, good luck with the installation, best regards