How to make a robot according to the instructions. Make a robot at home on your own? Easily! Instructions for creating a robot

How to create a robot?

When it comes to robots, we think of a giant machine with artificial intelligence, like in the RoboCop movies, etc. However, a robot does not have to be a large and technically complex device. In this article, we will tell you how to create a robot at home. Having created your own mini-robot, you will see that no special knowledge and tools are required for this.

Work materials

So, we create a robot with our own hands, having prepared the following materials for construction:

2 small pieces of wire.
1 small 3 volt toy motor.
1 AA battery.
2 beads.
2 small square pieces of Styrofoam of different sizes.
Glue gun.
Leg material (paper clips, toothbrush head, etc.).

Instructions for creating a robot

Now let's move on to step by step description how to create a robot:

Glue the larger piece of styrofoam to the toy motor to the side with the metal contacts on top. This is necessary to protect the contacts from moisture.
Glue the battery on top of the piece of Styrofoam.
Glue the second piece of Styrofoam to the back of the engine to create a slight weight imbalance. It is thanks to this imbalance that the robot will be able to move. Let the glue dry.
Glue the legs to the engine. To keep the legs as strong as possible, you will first need to glue small pieces of polystyrene foam to the engine, and then glue the legs to them.
The wire to the engine can either be wrapped with electrical tape or soldered. The second option is more preferable - this way the robot will last much longer. Both pieces of wire must be soldered to the metal contacts on the engine as tightly as possible.
Next, you will need to attach any of the pieces of wire to one of the sides of the battery, to the "plus" or "minus". It can be attached to the battery either with electrical tape or with glue gun. Attaching with glue is more secure, but you need to be very careful when applying it, because if you use too much glue, the contact between the wire and the battery will be lost.
Glue the beads to the battery to simulate eyes.
Attach a second piece of wire to the other end of the battery to make the robot move. In this case, it is better to use not glue, but electrical tape. So you can easily open the contact and stop the robot when you get tired of it.

Such a robot will last exactly as long as the battery charge lasts. As you can see, creating robots at home is quite fascinating process, in which there is nothing complicated. Of course, you can later try to create more complex, programmable models. However, to create them, you will need certain knowledge and Additional materials sold at an electrical supply store. The same toy mini robot can be easily made with a child in minutes.

Today we will tell you how to make a robot from improvised means. The resulting "high-tech android", although it will small size and is unlikely to be able to help you with the housework, but will certainly amuse both children and adults.

Necessary materials
In order to make a robot with your own hands, you do not need knowledge of nuclear physics. This can also be done at home conventional materials which are constantly at hand. So what we need:

2 pieces of wire
1 motor
1 AA battery
3 pushpins
2 pieces of foam board or similar material
2-3 heads of old toothbrushes or a few paperclips

1. Attach the battery to the motor
Using a glue gun, attach a piece of foam board to the motor housing. Then glue the battery to it.

2. Destabilizer
This step may seem confusing. However, to make a robot, you need to make it move. We put a small oblong piece of foam board on the motor axis and fix it with a glue gun. This design will give the motor an imbalance, which will set the entire robot in motion.

At the very end of the destabilizer, put a couple of drops of glue, or attach some decorative element- this will add individuality to our creation and increase the amplitude of its movements.

3. Legs
Now you need to supply the robot lower limbs. If you use toothbrush heads for this, glue them to the bottom of the motor. As a layer, you can use the same foam board.

4. Wires
The next step is to attach our two pieces of wire to the contacts of the motor. You can just screw them on, but soldering them is even better, this will make the robot more durable.

5. Battery connection
Using a heat gun, glue the wire to one end of the battery. You can choose any of the two wires and either side of the battery - polarity does not matter in this case. If you're good at soldering, you can also use solder instead of glue for this step.

6. Eyes
As the eyes of the robot, a pair of beads is quite suitable, which we attach with hot glue to one of the ends of the battery. At this step, you can show your imagination and come up with appearance eyes at your discretion.

7. Launch
Now let's bring our craft to life. Take the free end of the wire and attach it to the unoccupied battery terminal with duct tape. Do not use hot melt adhesive for this step, because it will not allow you to turn off the motor if necessary.

The robot is ready!

Here's what ours might look like. homemade robot if you show more imagination:

And finally a video:

According to techcult

Many of us who have encountered computer technology have dreamed of building our own robot. For this device to perform some household duties, for example, bring beer. Everyone immediately takes up the creation of the most complex robot, but often quickly breaks off in the results. Our first robot, which was supposed to make a lot of chips, we never brought to mind. Therefore, you need to start with a simple one, gradually complicating your beast. Now we will tell you how you can create a simple do-it-yourself robot that will move independently around your apartment.

Concept

We set ourselves a simple task, to make a simple robot. Looking ahead, I’ll say that we managed, of course, not fifteen minutes, but a much longer period. But still it can be done in one evening.

Usually such crafts are made for years. People run around the shops in search of the right gear for several months. But we immediately realized - this is not our way! Therefore, we will use in the design such details that can be easily found at hand, or uprooted from old technology. IN last resort, buy for pennies at any radio shop or market.

Another idea was to make our craft as cheap as possible. A similar robot is in electronic stores and costs from 800 to 1500 rubles! Moreover, it is sold in the form of parts, but it will still have to be assembled, and it is not a fact that after that it will also work. Manufacturers of such kits often forget to put some detail and that's it - the robot is lost along with the money! Why do we need such happiness? Our robot should be no more than 100-150 rubles in details, including motors and batteries. At the same time, if you pick out motors from an old children's car, then its price will generally be about 20-30 rubles! You feel what savings, while getting a great friend.

The next part was what our handsome man would do. We decided to make a robot that will look for light sources. If the light source turns, then our car will steer after it. This concept is called “a robot striving to live.” Can he replace the batteries? Solar cells and then he will look for the light to ride.

Required parts and tools

What do we need to make our child? Since the concept is from improvised means, we will need a circuit board, or even an ordinary thick cardboard. In the cardboard, you can make holes with an awl for attaching all the details. We will use a montage, because it turned out to be at hand, and you won’t find a cardboard box in my house during the day with fire. This will be the chassis on which we will mount the rest of the robot harness, mount the motors and sensors. As a driving force, we will use three or five volt motors that can be picked out of old typewriter. We will make wheels from covers from plastic bottles, for example from Coca-Cola.

Three-volt phototransistors or photodiodes are used as sensors. They can be picked out even from an old optomechanical mouse. They stand in it infrared sensors(in our case they were black). There they are paired, that is, two photocells in one bottle. With a tester, nothing prevents you from finding out which leg is for what. Our control element will be domestic 816G transistors. We use three finger-type batteries soldered together as power sources. Or you can take the battery compartment from the old machine, as we did. Wiring will be required for installation. For these purposes, twisted-pair wires are ideal, which should be piled up in the house of any self-respecting hacker. To fix all the details, it is convenient to use hot glue with a heat gun. This wonderful invention melts quickly and sets just as quickly, which allows you to quickly work with it and mount simple elements. The thing is ideal for such crafts and I have used it more than once in my articles. We also need a hard wire, an ordinary paper clip will do for it.

We mount the circuit

So, we took out all the details and put them on our table. The soldering iron is already smoldering with rosin and you are rubbing your hands, craving the assembly, well, then let's get started. We take a piece of montage and cut it to the size of the future robot. For cutting textolite we use scissors for metal. We made a square with a side of about 4-5 cm. The main thing is that our meager scheme, batteries for two engines and fasteners for the front wheel fit on it. So that the board does not shaggy and is even, you can process it with a file, and also remove sharp edges. Our next step is to solder the sensors. Phototransistors and photodiodes have a plus and a minus, in other words an anode and a cathode. It is necessary to observe the polarity of their inclusion, which is easy to determine with a simple tester. If you make a mistake, nothing will burn, but the robot will not drive. The sensors are soldered into the corners of the circuit board on one side so that they look to the sides. You don’t need to solder them completely into the board, but leave about one and a half centimeters of leads so that you can easily bend them in any direction - we will need this later when setting up our robot. These will be our eyes, they should be on one side of our chassis, which in the future will be in front of the robot. It can be immediately noted that we are assembling two control circuits: one for controlling the right and the second for the left engines.

A little further away from the front edge of the chassis, next to our sensors, we need to solder the transistors. For the convenience of sealing and assembling the further circuit, we soldered both transistors “looking” with their marking towards the right wheel. Immediately it should be noted the location of the legs of the transistor. If you take the transistor in your hands and turn the metal substrate towards you, and the marking towards the forest (as in a fairy tale), and the legs are directed downwards, then from left to right the legs will be respectively: base, collector and emitter. If you look at the diagram where our transistor is shown, then the base will be a stick perpendicular to a thick segment in a circle, the emitter will be a stick with an arrow, the collector will be the same stick, only without an arrow. Everything seems to be clear here. Let's prepare the batteries and proceed to the direct assembly of the electrical circuit. Initially, we simply took three AA batteries and soldered them in series. You can immediately insert them into a special battery holder, which, as we have already said, is pulled out of an old children's car. Now we solder the wires to the batteries and define two key points on our board where all the wires will converge. This will be a plus and a minus. We did it simply - we passed the twisted pair to the edges of the board, soldered the ends to the transistors and photo sensors, made a twisted loop and soldered the batteries there. Perhaps not the most the best option, but the most convenient. Well, now we are preparing the wires, and proceed to the assembly of electricians. We will go from the positive pole of the battery to the negative contact, throughout wiring diagram. We take a piece of twisted pair, and start walking - we solder the positive contact of both photo sensors to the plus of the batteries, and solder the emitters of transistors in the same place. We solder the second leg of the photocell with a small piece of wire to the base of the transistor. The remaining, last legs of the transjuk are soldered to the engines, respectively. The second contact of the motors can be soldered to the battery through the switch.

But like true Jedi, we decided to turn on our robot by soldering and unsoldering the wire, since there was no switch of the right size in my bins.

Electrical Debugging

Everything, we have assembled the electrical part, now let's start testing the circuit. We turn on our circuit, and bring it to a lit table lamp. In turn, turning one or the other photocell. And let's see what happens. If our engines begin to rotate in turn with different speed, depending on the lighting, it means everything is in order. If not, then look for jambs in the assembly. Electronics is the science of contacts, which means that if something does not work, then somewhere there is no contact. Important point: the right photo sensor is responsible for the left wheel, and the left one, respectively, for the right one. Now, we figure out in which direction the right and left motors rotate. They should both spin forward. If this does not happen, then it is necessary to change the polarity of turning on the engine, which is spinning in the wrong direction, simply by soldering the wires at the motor terminals in reverse. We once again evaluate the location of the motors on the chassis and check the direction of movement in the direction where our sensors are installed. If everything is in order, then we'll move on. In any case, this can be corrected, even after everything is finally assembled.

Device assembly

We figured out the dreary electrical part, now let's get down to the mechanics. We will make wheels from caps, from plastic bottles. To make the front wheel, take two covers and glue them together.

We glued the hollow part inwards around the perimeter, for greater stability of the wheel. Further, exactly in the center of the cover, we drill a hole in the first and second cover. For drilling and all sorts of home crafts, it is very convenient to use a dremel - a sort of small drill with a lot of nozzles, milling, cutting and many others. It is very convenient to use for drilling holes less than one millimeter, where already conventional drill can not manage.

After we drill the covers, we thread a pre-bent paper clip into the hole.

We bend the paper clip in the shape of the letter "P", where on top bar our letter dangles the wheel.

Now we fix this paper clip between the photo sensors, in front of our car. The paperclip is convenient in that you can easily adjust the height of the front wheel, and we will deal with this adjustment later.

Let's move on to the driving wheels. We will also make them from covers. Similarly - we drill each wheel strictly in the center. It is best that the drill be the size of the motor axis, and ideally - a fraction of a millimeter less so that the axis is inserted there, but with difficulty. We put both wheels on the shaft of the engines, and so that they do not jump off, we fix them with hot glue.

This is important to do not only so that the wheels do not fly off when driving, but also do not rotate at the place of fasteners.

The most critical part is the fastening of electric motors. We put them at the very end of our chassis, on the opposite side of the circuit board, relative to the rest of the electronics. It must be remembered that the controlled engine is placed opposite its control photosystem. This is done so that the robot can turn into the light. On the right is the photo sensor, on the left is the engine and vice versa. To begin with, we will intercept the engines with pieces of twisted pair, threaded through the holes in the mounting and twisted from above.

We supply power, and look where our engines rotate. IN dark room they will not rotate the motors, it is advisable to direct them to the lamp. Check if all engines are running. We turn the robot, and watch how the motors change their rotation speed depending on the lighting. Let's turn it with the right photo sensor, and the left engine should spin quickly, and the other one, on the contrary, will slow down. Finally, we check the direction of rotation of the wheels so that the robot moves forward. If everything works as we described, then you can carefully fix the engines with hot glue.

We try to make sure that their wheels are on the same axis. That's it - we fix the batteries on the top platform of the chassis and proceed to setting up and playing with the robot.

Pitfalls and setup

The first pitfall in our craft was unexpected. When we assembled the whole circuit and the technical part, all the engines reacted perfectly to the light, and everything seemed to be going fine. But when we put our robot on the floor, it didn’t go with us. It turned out that the power of the motors is simply not enough. I had to urgently dismantle the children's car in order to get more powerful engines from there. By the way, if you take motors from toys, you definitely won’t go wrong with its power, since they are designed to carry a lot of cars with batteries. When we figured out the engines, we moved on to tuning and cosmetic drive. First you need to collect the beards of wires that we drag along the floor, and fix them on the chassis with hot glue.

If the robot is dragging somewhere belly, then you can raise the front chassis by bending the fastening wire. The most important photosensors. It is best to bend them looking to the side at thirty degrees from the main course. Then he will catch the light sources, and go to them. Desired angle bending will have to be selected experimentally. All armed table lamp, put the robot on the floor, turn it on and start checking and enjoying how your child clearly follows the light source, and how deftly he finds it.

Improvements

There is no limit to perfection and you can add functions to our robot indefinitely. There were even thoughts to install a controller, but then the cost and complexity of manufacturing would increase significantly, and this is not our method.

The first improvement is to make a robot that would follow a given path. Everything is simple here, a black stripe is taken and printed on the printer, or similarly drawn in black permanent marker on a sheet of paper. The main thing is that the strip should be slightly narrower than the width of the soldered photo sensors. We lower the photocells themselves down so that they look at the floor. Next to each of our eyes, we install a super-bright LED in series with a resistance of 470 ohms. The LED itself with resistance is soldered directly to the battery. The idea is simple, the light is perfectly reflected from a white sheet of paper, hits our sensor and the robot goes straight. As soon as the beam hits the dark strip, almost no light hits the photocell (black paper absorbs light perfectly), and therefore one engine starts to rotate more slowly. Another motor quickly turns the robot, leveling the course. As a result, the robot rides on a black strip, as if on rails. You can draw such a strip on the white floor and send the robot to the kitchen for beer from your computer.

The second idea is to complicate the circuit by adding two more transistors and two photosensors and make the robot look for light not only from the front, but also from all sides, and as soon as it finds it, it rushes towards it. Everything will only depend on which side the light source appears: if it is in front, it will go forward, and if it is behind, it will roll back. Even in this case, to simplify the assembly, you can use the LM293D chip, but it costs about a hundred rubles. But with the help of it, you can easily configure the differential inclusion of the direction of rotation of the wheels, or, more simply, the direction of movement of the robot: forward and backward.

The last thing you can do is to completely remove the batteries that are constantly running down and put in a solar panel, which you can now buy at the accessories store for mobile phones(or in a dialextreme). To exclude the complete loss of the robot's capacity in this mode, if it accidentally enters the shade, you can connect a solar battery in parallel - an electrolytic capacitor of a very large capacity (thousands of microfarads). Since the voltage we have there does not exceed five volts, the capacitor can be taken rated at 6.3 volts. With such a capacity and such a voltage, it will be quite miniature. Conders can either be bought or uprooted from old power supplies.
The rest of the possible variations, we think, you can come up with yourself. If there is something interesting - be sure to write.

conclusions

So we have joined the greatest science, the engine of progress - cybernetics. In the seventies of the last century, it was very popular to design such robots. It should be noted that our creation uses the rudiments of analog computing, which died out with the advent of digital technologies. But as I have shown in this article, all is not lost. I hope we will not stop at designing such a simple robot, but will come up with new and new designs, and surprise us with your own interesting crafts. Good luck with the build!

Aug 27, 2017 Gennady

Since you have reached this page, it means that you are no longer indifferent to the topic of robotics and robotics. Building a robot with your own hands is very an exciting activity which will teach you a lot. You will gain skills in the field of electronics, mechanics, programming, process control. For me, robotics is a fascinating hobby. Like all of us, I also dreamed of creating something with wheels, motors, wires, and a bunch of electronic parts.

So one day an idea came to mind assemble a robot with your own hands at home. But not only to create a simple device that would move in different directions, but to create a multifunctional robot that would execute commands communication center and would be useful in the economy.

The idea is to make a robot with your own hands called Robotech, which could be assembled by anyone, a novice roboticist or a radio amateur.

Basic requirements for a homemade robot

Ability to assemble a robot at home.
The robot must be built on a commercially available and easy-to-program microcontroller.
A simple and affordable platform should be used as a chassis.
The robot must contain the necessary set of sensors and mechanisms that allow expanding the functionality as needed.
The robot must move freely and be able to respond to obstacles.
The ability to control the robot at a distance, the use of telemetry (observe the state of the robot, set various commands).
Ability to broadcast video images from the onboard camera to the base station.

Taking into account the requirements, it was decided to use two micro-computers to control the robot ( MC-1 and MC-2).

On-board computer MC-1

First computer ( main MC-1) - is used as the main on-board computer of the "brain", whose tasks include:

video broadcast environment to the base station in good quality;
receiving commands from the control center (base station);
sending big data to the control center at high speed;
coordinating the work of the rest of the robot nodes by means of a second micro-computer (additional MC-2)

To perform the tasks, it was decided to use a single-board computer Raspberry PI or, in extreme cases, a router with the ability to flash openwrt.

On-board computer MC-2

Second computer ( optional MC-2) is used to control the engine, collect information from various sensors or sensors, and send the finished data to the MC-1 main computer.

As a controller for controlling the chassis mechanisms and sensors of the robot, it was decided to use a ready-made . Of all the controllers I considered, I chose the most common and affordable. You can also use a more compact Arduino Nano. Both devices are powered by ATMega328p avr microcontroller.

Many people would like to design a robot like a machine that would work autonomously. However, if we slightly expand the concept of the word “robot”, then remotely controlled objects can be considered a robot. You may think that it will be difficult to assemble a robot on a remote control, but it's actually easier than it seems. This article will tell you how to assemble a remote-controlled robot.

Steps

Decide what you will be building. You are unlikely to be able to assemble a full-scale, bipedal humanoid that can fulfill your every whim. In addition, it will not be a robot with various claws capable of grabbing and dragging 5-kilogram objects. You'll start by building a robot that can move forward, backward, left, and right wirelessly from a remote control. However, after you master the basic aspects, you can improve your design and add various innovations, just follow the instruction: "There is no complete robot in the world." There is always something to add and improve.

Seven times measure cut once. Before starting the actual assembly of the robot, even before ordering the necessary parts. Your first robot will look like two servos on a flat piece of plastic. This design is very simple and leaves room for improvement. The size of such a model will be approximately 15 by 20 centimeters. To create such a simple robot, you can simply sketch it with a ruler, paper and pencil in real size. For larger and more complex projects, you will need to learn the rules of scaling and automated programming.

Choose the details you need. Although it is not yet time to order parts, you should already choose them and know where to buy. If you order online, it is better to find all the parts on one site, which will help you save on shipping. You will need frame or chassis material, 2 servo motors, battery, radio transmitter, transmitter and receiver.

Select the servos you need to drive the robot. One motor will move the front wheels, and the second - the rear. This way you will be able to use the simplest steering method, differential gearing, meaning that both motors rotate forward when the robot moves forward, both motors rotate backward when the robot moves backward, and to make one of the turns, one motor works, and Do not have another one. Servo motor is different from conventional motor alternating current in that the former is only capable of rotating 180 degrees and transmitting information back to its position. This project will use a servo because it's easier and you don't have to buy an expensive ESC or a separate gearbox. Once you've figured out how to assemble a remote control robot, you can build another one or modify what you already have using AC motors instead of servos. There are 4 important aspects things to seriously think about before buying a servo, more specifically: speed, torque, size/weight, and if they can be modified to rotate 360 degrees. Since the servos can only rotate 180 degrees, your robot will only be able to move forward a little. With the 360-degree mod, you can set the motor to rotate continuously in one direction and allow the robot to drive constantly in one direction or the other. Size and weight are very important for this project because you will most likely end up with a lot of free space anyway. Try to find something medium in size. Torque is the power of the engine. That's what the gearbox is for. If the motor does not have a gearbox and the torque is low, then your robot will most likely not budge because it does not have enough power for that. You can always buy and attach a stronger or faster engine after the build is complete. Remember what more speed, the lower the power. It is recommended to purchase the “HS-311” servo for the first robot prototype. This motor has a good balance of speed and power, is inexpensive and is the right size for this robot.
- Since this servo can only rotate 180 degrees, you will have to reconfigure it 360 degrees, but this procedure will void the purchase warranty, but you will need to do this to allow the robot to move more freely. Instructions for this can be found online.
Pick up a battery. You will need something to supply power to the robot. Do not attempt to use the power supply with AC voltage(that is, a regular outlet). Use a non-variable source (AA batteries).
- Choose batteries. There are 4 types of batteries that we will choose from: lithium polymer, nickel metal hydride, nickel cadmium and alkaline battery.
  - Lithium polymer batteries are the newest and incredibly light. However, they are dangerous, expensive and you will need to use a special charger. Use this type of battery if you have experience in robotics and are willing to shell out for your project.
  - Nickel-cadmium is a common rechargeable battery. This type is used in many robots. The problem is that if you recharge them before they're completely drained, they won't be able to last as long as when fully charged.
  - The nickel-metal hydride battery is very similar to the nickel-cadmium battery in size, weight, and price, but it has better efficiency work, and it is this type of battery that is recommended for beginner technicians.
  - The alkaline battery is a common type of non-rechargeable battery. These batteries are very popular, cheap and readily available. However, they run out quickly and you will constantly have to buy them. Don't use them.
- Select battery specifications. You will need to select the correct voltage for your set of batteries. 4.8 (B) and 6.0 (B) are mainly used. Most servos will run on one of these. It is recommended to use 6.0 (B) more often (if your servos can handle it, although most of them can) because it will allow your motor to be faster and more powerful. Now you should think about the capacity of the battery, which is measured in (mAh) (milliamps per hour). The higher this figure, the better, but the more expensive ones will be the heaviest. For a robot of this size, 1,800 (mAh) is best. If you have to choose between 1450 (mAh) and 2000 (mAh) for the same voltage and weight, then choose 2000 (mAh) as this battery is better in every way and will only be slightly more expensive. Don't forget to purchase a charger for your battery.
Choose a material for your robot. You will need to attach a frame to the robot to attach all the electronics. Most robots of this size are made of plastic or aluminum. For beginners, the use of a plastic board is recommended. This type of plastic is cheap and easy to use. The thickness will be about half a centimeter. What size sheet of plastic should I buy? Get a sheet large enough to give you a second chance if you fail, but buy enough to last 4 or 5 tries.
Select transmitter/receiver. This part will be the most expensive part of your robot. In addition, this will be the most important part, because without it, your robot will not be able to do anything. It is recommended to start with a very good transmitter/receiver, because this is the part that can serve as an obstacle to improving your robot in the future. A cheap transmitter/receiver will set the robot in motion very well, but, most likely, all the possibilities of your mechanical creation will end there. So instead of buying a cheap device now and an expensive one in the future, it is better to save money and buy an expensive and powerful transmitter/receiver today. Although there are only a few frequencies you can use, the most common are: 27 (MHz), 72 (MHz), 75 (MHz) and 2.4 (MHz). Frequency 27 (MHz) is used for airplanes and cars. Frequency 27 (MHz) is most often used in children's toy cars. This frequency is recommended for very small projects. The 72 (MHz) frequency can only be used for large model toy airplanes, so it would be illegal to use this frequency, because you can interfere with the signal of a large model airplane, which can crash on the head of a passer-by and injure or even kill him. The frequency of 75 (MHz) is used only for ground purposes, so feel free to use it. However, there is nothing better than 2.4 (GHz) which is subject to the least amount of interference, and we strongly recommend that you spend a little more money and choose a transmitter/receiver with this frequency. Once you have decided on the frequency, you should determine how many channels you will use. The number of channels determines how many functions your robot will support. One channel will be assigned to driving forward and backward, the second will be responsible for turning left and right. However, it is recommended to get at least three channels, because you may want to add something else to the robot's arsenal of movements. With four channels, you also get two joysticks. As we noted earlier, you should purchase one of the best transmitters/receivers so you don't have to buy another one later. In addition, you can use the same device in other robots or scientific and technical projects. We advise you to take a closer look at the 5-channel radio system "Spektrum DX5e MD2" and "AR500".
Choose wheels. There are three main things to consider when choosing wheels: diameter, grip, and how well they fit your engine. The diameter is the length of the wheel from one side, passing through the center point, to the other side. How larger diameter wheels, the faster it will rotate and the higher it will be able to drive, and the less grip it will have with the ground. If you have purchased small wheels, then they are unlikely to pass through difficult terrain or accelerate to crazy speeds, but in return you will get more power from them. Grip refers to how well the wheels grip the ground with rubber or foam rubber so that the wheels don't skid on the ground. Most wheels designed to be attached to a servomotor will not pose much of a problem. It is recommended to use a wheel with a diameter of 7 or 12 centimeters with a rubber coating around them. You will need 2 wheels.

Now that you have chosen necessary details order them online. Try to order them from as few sites as possible, which will allow you to save on shipping and receive all the parts at the same time.

Measure and cut out the frame. Take a ruler and a cutting object, and measure the length and width of the running frame, approximately 15 (cm) by 20 (cm). And now, check how smooth your lines are. Remember, measure seven times, cut once. If you are using plastic board, then you will be able to cut it in the same way as its wooden namesake.
Assemble the robot. On this moment you have all necessary materials and carved undercarriage.
1. Place the servomotors on the bottom side of the plastic board near the edge. The side of the servomotor that has the shaft must face outward. Make sure you have enough room for the wheels to engage.
2. Attach the wheels to the motors using the screws that came with the motors.
3. Attach one piece of Velcro to the receiver and the other to the battery pack.
4. Stick two pieces of the opposite type of Velcro on the robot and attach the receiver and battery pack to it.
5. Here is a robot with two wheels on one side and the other side just dragging on the floor, but we won't add the third wheel just yet.
- Try putting your old "smartphone" with a camera on top of the robot and use it as a moving recorder. You can use video chat to see where the robot is heading, giving you the ability to take it outside of your room without you being accompanied.
- Add frills. If your transmitter/receiver has an additional channel, then you can make a claw that can close, and if you have several channels, then your claw will be able to both open and close. Use your imagination.
- If you push to the right and the robot moves to the left, then try connecting the wires on the receiver in a different way, so for example, if you plugged the right servo into channel 2 and the left servo into channel 1, then swap them.
- You may want to purchase an adapter that allows you to connect the battery to a charger.
- You may prefer to use a 12 volt battery direct current, which will improve the speed and power of the robot.
- Make sure you buy the same frequency transmitter and receiver. Also, make sure the receiver has the same or more channels as the transmitter. If the receiver has more channels than the transmitter, then only fewer channels will be usable.
Warnings
- Beginners should not use AC power (home outlet) for home projects. Alternating current is very dangerous.
- Do not tune into 72 (MHz) unless you are building an airplane, as it would be against the law to use this frequency on ground based toys and you risk injuring or killing someone.
- Do not use a 12 (V) non-AC battery with a 110-240 V AC battery, which may soon damage the engine.
- Use of 12(V) non-AC may explode the motor if it does not support such a battery.