Shower      03/03/2020

Frame house without insulation. Step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house with your own hands. Important aspects of wall vapor barrier

This question is asked by every novice builder who has to carry out the process of insulating a building.

It’s not enough to build a house with your own hands, you need to create in it comfortable conditions residence, and without insulation this is difficult to achieve.

Currently there is a large number of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate frame house with your own hands. They differ in composition, which, in turn, implies differences in the use of material and the positive and negative sides of each insulation.

Consists of 80 percent insulation. Insulation does not have a heating effect; its task is to prevent heat loss. Since during the heating process heat can be dissipated, transmitted through the walls of the building to the outside, the insulation acts as a kind of barrier that does not allow the room to quickly heat up in hot weather or cool down in the cold season.

Insulation materials

The most common material for insulation is mineral wool. It is a fibrous substance that has good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties. But the main disadvantage of the material is its toxicity. In addition, mineral wool does not perceive moisture well, losing its protective characteristics upon contact with it, so in order to insulate a frame house with this material, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing.

The next material is ecowool. Unlike the previous one, it is a completely natural material, which allows you to create an environmentally friendly home. Its components are safe for health and non-toxic.

Ecowool is shredded paper impregnated with a chemical composition. One of them is boric acid, which does not prevent the insulation from rotting and makes it non-flammable. The insulation has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and is quickly installed. However, this material is difficult to install yourself, as a result of which you have to resort to the help of specialists or assistants.

Insulation such as polystyrene foam is used quite successfully. Its disadvantages are low noise insulation, high degree of flammability, emission harmful substances during combustion. But if you approach the operation of a building insulated with foam plastic, be as careful as possible, following the standards fire safety, then such a building will last a long time without causing discomfort to its owners.

Polystyrene foam has its advantages. It does not absorb moisture and therefore does not require additional waterproofing. It is very light in weight, which is convenient during delivery of material and carrying out insulation work. In addition, the material will be much cheaper than using ecowool.

Another material on this list of insulation materials is polyurethane foam. Being the most modern material, polyurethane foam has absorbed everything best qualities their predecessors. It is non-flammable, non-toxic, provides good thermal insulation at low temperatures. Insulation of a house using polyurethane foam occurs quickly, which is due to the method of applying the material - two components are sent into the sprayer, which are mixed under the influence of air, after which they fall on the surface in the form of foam, which hardens in a short time. The only drawback of the material is its high price.

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The process of insulating a house

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Preparing and insulating the house

To insulate a house with your own hands, the first thing you should do is check the condition of the walls of the building. Once any defects are identified, they must be eliminated. Before insulating a house, it is recommended to carry out a whole complex of preparatory work, which will allow you to prepare a frame house. This list includes cleaning the walls of the building from dirt and removing foreign objects, such as protruding nails. In addition, it is necessary to seal the existing gaps between the structural elements polyurethane foam. You will need a hair dryer to dry damp areas of wood.

To insulate a frame house, you will need tools and materials such as:

  1. Construction hair dryer (for drying walls).
  2. Nail puller (for removing protruding nails).
  3. Drill and screwdriver.
  4. Self-tapping screws.
  5. Insulation.
  6. Polyurethane foam.
  7. Putty.
  8. Construction stapler.
  9. Construction adhesive.
  10. Reinforcing mesh.

It involves two stages of work: installation of waterproofing and installation of a thermal insulation layer. The waterproofing material must be cut into strips corresponding to the size of the walls of the house. Next, the material is secured to the racks, followed by complete covering of the frame using a construction stapler.

Good material for waterproofing frame house is glassine. Using of this material moisture absorption can reach 20 percent. Next, the moisture is removed to the wood, which, in turn, dries naturally. The glassine strips are overlapped. The layer of material is 10 cm, fastening is carried out every 12 cm along the joint.

This type of work is intended only to insulate a frame house from the inside. External waterproofing makes no sense, since moisture will remain between the layers without coming out, which will ultimately lead to rot and further destruction of the building.

After the installation of waterproofing is completed, the thermal insulation material is laid. The material is placed between the frame posts, having previously been cut to certain sizes that will correspond to the dimensions of the wall. Please note that the size of the thermal insulation material is allowed larger size walls by about 5 cm. This will allow for more dense installation. Cutting sheets of thermal insulation is carried out with a regular knife.

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Internal and external insulation

Heat leakage from a frame house, like any other structure, occurs through the walls. Therefore, it is not enough to insulate a frame house from the inside; you should pay attention to both sides. Most practical option is external insulation, for this the best material there will be foam.

Insulation using polystyrene foam involves performing the work in stages. First you need to level the walls, this will allow the slabs to fit snugly against the walls. Therefore, it is necessary to remove dirt and dust, eliminate wall defects and apply a primer.

The next stage of insulation is the installation of slabs. For this purpose, construction adhesive is used, which is used to treat the surface of both the wall and the slabs themselves. To ensure the most durable connection of the slabs to the wall, it is recommended to additionally fasten them with dowels.

After installation of the slabs is complete, apply protective covering. For this purpose, a reinforcing mesh is installed, on top of which two layers of putty are applied. Two layers of material will increase the strength of the insulation. To give the wall a more beautiful and aesthetic appearance, you can use decorative plaster, which allows you not only to improve appearance building, but also to protect the building from temperature fluctuations.

The insulation of walls from the inside is exactly the same as from the outside. The only difference is that in addition to decorative plaster and putty, plasterboard is used as a finishing component. But it is worth noting that when internal insulation The space of the room also decreases. In addition, if there is a slight glitch in heating system the rooms cool down quickly. For this reason, insulation of walls from the inside is carried out in cases where it is not possible to carry out insulation from the outside.

Frame houses are built quickly and are inexpensive. If you plan to use the building during the warm season, you are often limited to the standard insulation provided for by the project. But over time, you may want to travel outside the city not only in the summer. To make living in it comfortable, it is necessary to insulate the frame house.

It is preferable to insulate a frame house at the construction stage, but the finished structure can also be made warmer. Industry produces whole line materials that not only have thermal insulating properties, but also help improve sound insulation. The most popular insulation materials are mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, and polystyrene foam. Bulk materials can also be used for this purpose.

Insulation is carried out both inside and outside. Each technology has its own characteristics. To install a heat-insulating layer outside, several methods are used:

  • mounted;
  • wet;
  • spraying liquid heat insulator;
  • cladding


Inside, polystyrene foam is more often used or ecowool, penoizol, or polyurethane are sprayed. Also used different kinds cladding: reinforced plaster, which is puttied and covered with wallpaper. Painting or installation possible decorative panels from MDF, lining or plasterboard. The last option requires application decorative covering. Cross-insulation of a frame house is considered the most reliable.

Popular insulation materials

Insulating a frame house with mineral wool, of which there are several varieties, is the most common way to prepare a room for winter. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls, slabs and cylinders. Cylinders are ideal for insulating pipelines. Rolls are used to cover all interior surfaces of residential buildings, and slabs are suitable for those structures that must withstand heavy loads.

Cotton wool also differs in composition. Stone (basalt) is made from rocks formed as a result of a volcanic eruption. The source material is gabbro-basalt rocks. Basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 1200 0 C. Stone wool is distinguished by its high density and low thermal conductivity, the material is not flammable and is an excellent sound insulator.


Glass wool is made from sand, soda, dolomite and broken glass. Long fibers make it stronger than stone. Elastic material easily restores its shape after deformation.

Glass wool can be used at temperatures from +45 0 to -60 0 C. It is resistant to chemical influences and does not react with metal. This material does not shrink, is frost-resistant, has low hygroscopicity, is lightweight, and is a good sound absorber. However, it cannot be used to insulate chimneys, since it burns out during prolonged contact with hot surfaces.

Slag - a variety mineral wool, obtained from processed blast furnace slag. Contains many harmful compounds and is not suitable for internal insulation. Low price and high heat-insulating, sound-absorbing properties, ease of installation, long term operation lead to the fact that this unsafe material is widely used in construction.

Important! When working with mineral wool, it is very important to consider the fragility of its fibers. You can work with it only in glasses and a respirator, protecting your hands with gloves. Contact with skin and mucous membranes can cause irritation and allergic reactions.


Work order

If you decide to insulate a frame house with your own hands - step-by-step instruction looks something like this:

  • covering the walls with a heat insulator on the outside;
  • covering the walls from the inside;
  • hydro- and thermal insulation of the floor;
  • hydro- and thermal insulation of the ceiling;
  • working with windows.

Insulation from outside

Mounted method

On the outer walls of the house they are packed horizontal bars section 50x50 mm. The distance between the bars should be 1 cm less than the width of the selected insulation. Thermal insulating material is selected with a thickness of at least 5 cm. Insulation blocks are placed between the bars so that they fit between the guides with force. Waterproofing is stuffed over the sheathing with heat-insulating material, which will protect the insulation from getting wet and will serve as a barrier to the wind. Sheets of the moisture-proof membrane are laid overlapping to prevent the formation of gaps.


Another lathing is placed on top of the film, the task of which is to create an air gap between the insulation and finishing. Siding is most often used as an external covering; finishing with boards and subsequent painting is possible. A blockhouse looks great as an external covering, but the price of such finishing is quite high. This method of wall insulation is called hinged.

Wet method

Insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam is done using the wet method. Wet method façade insulation involves attaching thermal insulation slabs to an adhesive base. Work begins with removing the old coating and leveling the walls. The surface is then primed with a deep penetrating primer. The starting strip is attached to the wall; it should be 25-30 cm below the ceiling of the first floor. The thickness of the plank is chosen equal to the thickness of the insulation, which is usually used as foam or basalt slabs.

Polyurethane glue is heated to room temperature, shake, then apply using a special gun. Can also be used cement mixture by adding 0.3 parts of water to 1 part of the dry mixture and mixing thoroughly. This adhesive base must be used up within the first 3 hours after preparation.

The glue is applied to the slab with a notched trowel and glued, starting from the bottom. The layout of the plates is the same as for brickwork to avoid vertical cracks. The resulting cracks are foamed. After the glue has dried, the slabs are reinforced with plastic dowels. Then an adhesive layer is applied to the wall, into which the reinforcing mesh is embedded. After drying, another adhesive layer is applied.

The resulting surface is sanded, primed and painted. A canopy must be mounted above such a façade to drain water.

Insulation of a frame house with penoplex, that is, extruded polystyrene foam, is done in the same way as with polystyrene foam. Both of these materials provide excellent protection from the cold, but are fire hazards! You must remember this when choosing them for thermal insulation.

Spraying liquid heat insulator

Polyurethane foam is used for this. The advantages of the method include obtaining a continuous layer that eliminates cold bridges. Polyurethane foam is distinguished by strength, frost resistance, and resistance to chemical influences. On the other hand, the material ages under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes. Blowing foam between walls can lead to damage due to excessive expansion of the insulation. The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam is its high flammability. The use of the material requires increased fire safety measures.


The wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, and the sheathing is mounted on it. Semi-rigid polyurethane foam is applied to the wall under high pressure. Work is carried out in a protective suit.

After the foam hardens, the excess is cut off. Plaster is applied over the coating, or painting is done with acrylic or silicate dyes. The façade is covered from above vinyl siding or covered with clapboard.

Insulation using cladding method

It is based on covering the walls with clinker façade thermal panels. This is a cross between a thermal insulator and finishing material. Thermal panels are a sandwich structure consisting of polyurethane foam, marble chips and decorative ceramics made from refractory slate clay - clinker tiles. This finish has excellent heat-insulating properties, high strength and durability, and an attractive appearance. Decorative surface not afraid of mechanical influences. The cost of such a coating is high, but the ability to use clinker tiles to decorate any type of wall and do without repairs makes it attractive to the consumer.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house can also be done using expanded clay, although this method is not very suitable for lightweight structures, because the walls must withstand the load of the insulation itself. But expanded clay is favored by its low price.


Expanded clay is distinguished by:

  • high density;
  • increased thermal conductivity;
  • weak moisture absorption and weak water loss.

Using expanded clay as wall insulation, care must be taken to strengthen the internal and external rough finish. However, it is better to use this material for the floor and ceiling, and cover the walls with other, more modern thermal insulators.

Insulation from the inside

The insulation of a frame house from the inside is done in two layers. The first layer, 5 cm thick, is laid flush with the joists and jibs. The second layer of 10 cm is laid between the racks and covered with a vapor barrier on top. The film is laid with the smooth side facing the thermal insulation. The strips are overlapped and the seams between them are taped.

Important! Thermal insulation must completely fill all gaps; it cannot be compacted.

Interior partitions are also equipped with a heat-insulating layer that performs soundproofing functions and prevents the formation of drafts. If the slabs are laid in 2 layers, then the laying is done with the seams staggered. Vapor barrier in interior partitions is not needed, but the insulation is covered with glassine on both sides so that fiber particles do not penetrate into the room.


Floor thermal insulation

To properly equip a frame house, it is necessary to thermally insulate the floor. In this case, the same scheme is used as for internal wall insulation. Polystyrene foam or mineral wool are used as insulation. To do this, dismantle the finished floor and clean internal surfaces, lay waterproofing and make a frame for the insulation boards. The plates should be placed as close to one another as possible. Another layer of film is laid on top, covered with OSB or boards, on top of which a finishing coating is mounted.

Methods of covering the ceiling

Thermal insulation of the ceiling and roof are the most important components of home insulation. Most of energy escapes through the upper structures. The ceiling can be covered with layers of mineral wool or polystyrene foam, and work is carried out both from inside the room and in the attic, covering the ceiling from above. The method of installing insulation is similar to that used on the floor.


The internal method will avoid the appearance of excessive humidity in the room, but will take away part of the volume of the room. The external one is easier, because working on the lower surface will not be as difficult as standing with the tool raised up.

It will have a beneficial effect on the temperature in the house and the insulation of the roof. To do this, a sheathing is installed under the roof, which is filled with slabs of the selected material. Waterproofing is stretched under the slabs, covering both the roof and beams with film.

Beams with a cross section of 50x50 mm are stuffed between the rafters, and slabs are placed in the resulting boxes. The width of the slabs should slightly exceed the gap of the box so that the insulation fits between the guides with force. A vapor barrier film is stretched over the slabs and the ceiling is covered with plasterboard.


Windows and doors

To eliminate heat loss through windows, it is best to install double-glazed windows. But old windows can also serve as protection from the cold if they are repaired.

All broken and cracked glass should be replaced, and the joints between the glass and the frame should be treated with silicone. All cracks in the frames must be puttied or sealed with sealant, and then painted.

If drafts cannot be overcome, it is necessary to identify the cracks through which heat loss occurs and seal them with polyurethane foam. All opening parts should be sealed with a sealant, and those that will not open in winter should be covered with cotton wool or wet newspapers. Paper tape is glued on top. It holds heat well and can be removed without any problems in the spring.

Doors must be lined around the edges with felt or rubber strips. Cold door leaf It makes sense to insulate it in the same way as the walls. Transverse bars are stuffed onto the canvas, with insulation placed between them. OSB or plywood is placed on top of the structure.

Even before construction begins, it is very important to choose high-quality insulation for a frame house. After all, low-quality material eliminates all the advantages of an economical design and will not maintain the temperature in the building. It is difficult to choose the best among the variety of market offers. Explore everything available options and compare their advantages and disadvantages.

How to choose insulation

Even a professional builder will not be able to immediately tell which insulation is best for a frame house. The material must match climatic zone and type of house, match the thickness and cladding of the walls. Some prefer to sheathe the house with foam plastic, others prefer to sheathe the house with mineral wool or other materials. There is no point in saving on insulation, because without it wooden house it will be cold.

Foam insulation

Polystyrene foam is a very popular insulation material. Insulating a frame house with foam plastic has many advantages:

  • fairly low cost of material;
  • environmental Safety;
  • minimum weight;
  • simple installation;
  • ability to withstand moisture without protective coating;
  • there is no need to make additional insulation.

But polystyrene foam also has its disadvantages, which force many to abandon it, despite the cheapness of this material. It is susceptible to fire, has minimal sound insulation and is very fragile.

When choosing polystyrene foam you should take into account density. If you need to sheathe frame structure area 6 sq. meters, you need to purchase 3 cubic meters. m of foam plastic 100 mm thick.

Insulation with mineral wool

Another popular insulation for frame houses is mineral wool. Demand for it is growing because it is very comfortable material, presented in the form of pressed rectangular slabs. The slabs are not only easy to install, but also easy to cut. To get a piece the desired shape and size, just use a knife or saw.

To produce mineral wool, blast furnace slag or basalt is used, which is thermally treated and pressed. Thanks to its fibrous structure, the insulation retains air, thereby creating a barrier to cold air and preventing it from entering the room.

The following advantages of the material are highlighted:

  • fire resistance;
  • high sound insulation;
  • durability of operation;
  • excellent thermal insulation;
  • ability to withstand almost any deformation.

Some people do not buy mineral wool because it is not environmentally friendly and is somewhat toxic. The material contains small harmful particles that can penetrate the respiratory tract and cause illness. Therefore, you need to work with insulation carefully. And to ensure that mineral wool does not have a negative impact on the health of the residents of the house in the future, it is recommended to cover it from the inside with a vapor barrier film.

If moisture comes into contact with this insulation, it will begin to deteriorate. This will lead to loss of thermal insulation properties and even the onset of rotting. To avoid this, it is necessary to make not only thermal insulation of the walls in a frame house, but also install a special waterproofing layer on the outside. It will make it impossible for moisture to enter the thermal insulation layer from the outside.

Walls are insulated using mineral wool as follows:

  1. From the inside, in front of the insulation, a layer of vapor barrier is installed to ensure air circulation with the wood and make it impossible for condensation to accumulate.
  2. The mineral wool itself is placed between the frame posts. When cutting insulation boards, it is better to make a small reserve.
  3. To ensure high quality insulation, thermal insulation material install as tightly as possible.

A frame wooden house is also insulated from the outside in the same way. But instead of a vapor barrier layer, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched over the mineral wool.

When using mineral wool, you need to be puzzled by the question of how dense the insulation for the walls of a frame house should be. Usually it is enough to use 25-30 kg. per sq. m. It is important that the material holds its shape and does not shrink under its own weight, so that there are no gaps in the thermal insulation in the wall. If possible, it is better to play it safe and use material with a density of up to 50 kg. per sq. m.

So, if you correctly install a thermal insulation layer with mineral wool, this insulation will be one of the best and most profitable options for a frame house.

Use of glass wool

This is another fibrous material that tops the rating of the main insulation materials for a frame house. Glass wool is obtained by melting waste glass, soda, sand, dolomite and borax. sold in slabs or rolls.

The material is quite nasty upon contact, since glass fragments fall off and are suspended in the air. Therefore, when working with glass wool, you need to use goggles, a respirator and gloves to protect your eyes and skin.

Despite this disadvantage, glass wool has a number of undeniable advantages:

  • fire resistance;
  • excellent heat resistance;
  • minimal hygroscopicity;
  • ability long time do not decompose chemically.

This type of insulation has frame houses excellent thermal insulation characteristics. And toxic substances are not released into the air even during a severe fire. Besides, glass wool is a very cheap option, so many people choose it.

When insulating a room with glass wool, it is worth covering the outside with windproof film. This will allow maximum heat retention inside the building, and will also eliminate the spraying of glass dust into the air.

Ecowool thermal insulation

– a more modern, high-quality and environmentally friendly insulation material that is used in the construction of frame houses. It is made from cellulose.

Material Features:

  1. To install insulation in a frame house, you must use special device. He adds water to the insulation, and then fixes it in the walls. This is a wet installation method.
  2. It is also possible to install ecowool using a dry method. To do this, the material is poured inside the frame, and then compacted to the required density.
  3. When choosing ecowool, you do not need to do hydro- and vapor barrier, since this material is not destroyed by water.

Despite these advantages, ecowool is not an ideal insulation material for frame houses. Firstly, it is very expensive, and secondly, installation must be carried out by specialists. They are needed not only for installation work, but also to calculate the thickness of the insulation, taking into account the thermal insulation requirements. Professionals will come to the site, take measurements and calculate how much ecowool needs to be purchased.

Filling with polyurethane foam

(it is also called penoizol) is made from two components, the mixing of which allows you to obtain reliable insulation with excellent characteristics. As a result, foam is formed, which can be poured into all the cracks in the frame house. Thanks to this, all the structure of the insulation becomes monolithic, united. Installing polyurethane foam is somewhat similar to working with polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam, or penoizol, has high thermal insulation properties, which many insulation materials do not have. But to fill it, you need to have certain skills and abilities. Therefore, you will have to call professionals for installation, since you cannot do it yourself.

Penoizol is quite expensive. This means that for those who are looking for an effective, but a budget option insulation, you will need to choose other materials.

Clay is a natural insulation material

Clay mortar will be the best insulation for a frame house for the owner who chooses exclusively natural materials. Clay is not used in its pure form, but together with straw. The advantage of clay walls is that they do not need a vapor barrier. Clay maintains a comfortable microclimate in the house, absorbing excess moisture from the air and releasing it if the air becomes dry.

The most important thing is to choose clay with the required fat content. If there is little fat content, the desired grip will not be obtained.

To determine the fat content, roll a clay ball and press it between boards. If the ball has cracks that have destroyed it by 50%, you need to add sand to the solution. The ideal composition of clay plaster breaks down by 30% under pressure. If the ball has completely crumbled, it means that it is completely unsuitable for further use.

There is no ideal recipe for how to make a clay solution for. In the process of its production, clay, water, lime, sawdust, cement and sand are used in different proportions, depending on the situation.
How to apply clay plaster on thatched walls is described in the video.

Fibrolite - a new reliable material

Fiberboard insulation is made from wood chips, which are dried and pressed until it looks like a slab. At the same time, Portland cement or magnesium salt is added to the shavings for binding. To ensure that the material does not lose its thermal insulation characteristics, it is necessary to additionally waterproof it. Fiberboard is ideal for interior floors and walls.

The popularity of fiberboard is growing every year, since this material has excellent characteristics:

  • does not burn in fire, since the binders impregnate the entire material and make it fireproof;
  • resistant to moisture;
  • withstands any kind of deformation well, since wood chips act as a damper, and binders ensure the stability of the warm slab;
  • although the composition contains a lot of wood chips, it does not rot and has no other biological activity, since the impregnation prevents microorganisms from spreading inside the material and spoiling it;
  • completely safe and environmentally friendly;
  • It has high sound insulation properties;
  • thermal insulation boards that can withstand frost without deteriorating performance characteristics, which is why they are used even in regions with harsh climates;
  • The durability of fiberboard is maximum – over 50 years.

Sawdust is an equally effective material

What to do if you want to save as much as possible on construction, but there is no way to get cheap insulation? You can use regular sawdust. Of course, you need to prepare an appropriate solution from them. For this you need lime, cement, and an antiseptic.

Sawdust insulation is prepared as follows:

  1. Mix sawdust, cement and lime in a ratio of 10:1:0.5.
  2. The homogeneous mixture is mixed with water, and an antiseptic, for example, boric acid, is added.
  3. To ensure that the entire mixture is moistened as much as possible and evenly, it is necessary to use a watering can for pouring.

The resulting solution is placed in the area between the bars or beams. Sawdust is most often used to insulate floors, but they can also be used for walls. At the same time, the mixture pour in small portions, compacting them firmly.

Despite its availability, sawdust as insulation has many disadvantages:

  • certain fire hazard;
  • low efficiency;
  • quite labor-intensive work;
  • possible subsidence of the insulation over time.

It is possible to increase the efficiency of insulation if you additionally use expanded clay.

Which material to choose

So, there are a lot of materials, so to say which one best insulation for thermal insulation of a frame house, difficult. All options considered have different characteristics, cost and appearance. Some have a limited scope of application, others have a high cost, the need to attract professionals, and low environmental friendliness.

You need to weigh which characteristics are priority and make the final choice. For example, according to the author of this article, basalt stone wool is the best insulation for the walls of a frame house. Perhaps the tips from the video, the authors of which tested products from different manufacturers, will help you.

Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even such reliable and high-quality structures in the Russian climate cannot do without insulation. And this means that from the choice correct option A quiet life in the house depends on him and his ability to work properly.

Why is it necessary?

Panel buildings very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity to start work late autumn, to have a full-fledged home by the beginning of the season. In this case, such buildings:

  • environmentally friendly;
  • are inexpensive;
  • serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation of the frame house is done properly.

Otherwise, it will be quite difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

  • Buildings for permanent use by default must have solid thermal protection.
  • If you plan to be there only from late spring to late autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

The “frame”, intended for the summer period, has a wall thickness of no more than 70 mm. During the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If you limit yourself to a thinner layer of material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either have to freeze or lose a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter accommodation It will be necessary to insulate not the entire volume of the frame, but only its individual parts, first of all:

  • stingrays;
  • basements;
  • attic planes;
  • basement structures.

It will not be possible to get by with a heated floor alone, even if its power is excessive. Through basements, external walls and other parts of the panel house structure, heat will flow away just as vigorously. Considering the variety of conditions where insulation will be installed, give a universal answer about the best option it is forbidden. The basement walls are equipped with the same types of thermal protection, load-bearing walls- by others, covering the cold attic - by others. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name suggests, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. This solution allows you to reliably close existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer the external location of insulation- because it does not take up precious internal space, which is always in short supply in dachas and rural dwellings. In addition to thermal protection of the façade plane, Special attention It is worth paying attention to preventing heat from escaping through the corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; Now you can find out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What should you use to insulate?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; standard technology involves the use of only tiles or rolls. The difference is not only that “one is put down, the other is unwound.” Technologists are aware of the differences in nominal thickness. Typically, increasing the layer thickness increases the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is impeccable in itself can be used incorrectly, and this immediately devalues ​​all the advantages. Therefore, it is better to either turn to professionals, or study the slightest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The vast majority of amateur builders and official firms use the “brilliant four”:

  • mineral wool;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • mineral slabs;
  • isolon.

There are many other options, the main division of which is carried out by chemical nature (organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and bulk substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with this solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly compact the layer being laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Slab materials do not cause such problems - but they also have their pitfalls.

So, using mineral wool in its pure form for external insulation of walls is pointless: it will not hold up well and will retain its thermal properties only until the first rain or snow. A prerequisite for success is attachment to special design from bars packed vertically. Each beam is placed only where the border between the mineral wool slabs passes. You should also take care of external protection from getting wet.

When working, it is important to wear respiratory protection, wear special glasses and not take off gloves.

Polystyrene foam is an organic substance. Its undoubted advantages are:

  • low specific gravity;
  • protecting walls from strong winds;
  • exclusion of rotting.

But these advantages also have a downside: high fire risks. Therefore, finishing the walls with polystyrene foam that has not passed special treatment, it is forbidden.

Mineral wool is absolutely not prone to ignition. A similar advantage can be obtained by using basalt wool, but it also has a significant advantage - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

Many people call the use of penoizol the ideal solution.

But it also has weak points - after a few years, areas will form where the material will not fit tightly. Therefore, heat loss will increase sharply. The liquid version of the coating has more powerful adhesion and lasts 50–60 years (a guarantee is provided for this period). The disadvantage, however, is also obvious - without special equipment it will not be possible to achieve success. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for retaining heat in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal insulation of walls of frame buildings roll materials impossible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be carried out very carefully. It is useful to remember this whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Frame structures are rarely insulated with expanded clay, and even its low cost does not justify this choice. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if it has already absorbed liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum density in dry form, it puts pressure on the walls and foundation very strongly. This circumstance will have to be taken into account when exterior decoration, choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in thermal qualities than mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Therefore, you will definitely have to use layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Insulation with stone wool also competes strongly with this material. Working with her slabs is a pleasure; there is no need for complex instruments. Cutting into the required fragments is done with a knife or saw with fine teeth.

Note: blocks stone wool Do not squeeze, tamp or squeeze. This will definitely lead to negative consequences. You also need to use ecowool wisely. So, in its pure form, ecological wool is very flammable, but if you mix it with borax and boric acid, level fire danger will decrease sharply. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by weight) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores functionality. People will also find such advantages as an optimal microclimate, suppression of extraneous sounds, absence of seams and sanitary safety to be attractive. Concerning possible problems, they are:

  • you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfilling in order to guarantee thermal protection;
  • You will definitely need specialized equipment;
  • if the fastening control was poor, the material may settle;
  • Ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity may be present.

Insulating frame houses with sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it exclusively primitive, as modern people often do. Careful consideration of the characteristics of a material makes it possible to advantageously embody its positive features and weaken its negative ones. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is its natural origin, affordable price and decent heat retention. You just need to deal with the risk of fire and the establishment of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Sawdust of a large fraction is usually used for the rough insulating layer, and heat retention is mainly ensured by a finer substance. When purchasing or preparing yourself, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material; the quality of thermal protection depends on it.

Followers modern materials And latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is quite widely used when working on floors, including:

  • over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
  • under attic floors;
  • to enhance the acoustic protection of structures separating the floors of the house.

Typically, on the floors of frame houses, polystyrene foam is placed between the joists; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced screed made of cement and sand. The disadvantage of the material (easily eliminated, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - to prevent such a development of events, gaps are needed. It is important to remember that this synthetic substance is flammable and should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it to mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-designed ventilation must be provided in a frame house.

Fresh air is always brought in from utility rooms, and the flow is carried out under the doors separating the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but also uniform distribution of heat in the home will not be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, the following come to the rescue:

  • special channels for flow;
  • bars across the wall;
  • separate channels for the passage of air into a specific room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the insulation layer, the more stable it usually retains heat. Because It is worth paying primary attention to the density of the structure, it is much more important than a big name or a whole series of certificates. The only particularly lightweight material that deserves attention is polystyrene foam (including its modification such as polystyrene foam). Even mineral wool belongs to the simply light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows you to choose the optimal solution for a wide variety of conditions and situations.

If you need the strongest possible cold blocking (in living rooms and on the floor), it is necessary to use the densest versions. For a non-residential attic, the requirements are lower. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. cotton insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively light load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

Brand P-125 is already more worthy; it can be used in different procedures:

  • covering ceilings and floors;
  • thermal insulation of walls;
  • thermal protection of partitions;
  • suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool of category PZh-175 has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, to a greater extent it is used in stone and concrete buildings. If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Moreover, the densest material is recommended to be used in the upper parts of the walls. For plaster, experts advise using cotton wool with a specific gravity of 140–160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. The requirements for insulation used in the interior of a frame house are less stringent.

When the home is covered pitched roof, optimal parameters– 30–45 kg per 1 cubic meter. m, and if you plan to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

Five times higher than the minimum value for mineral wool under flat roof, and for polystyrene foam it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cubic meter. m maximum. In floors, loose insulation can only be used when laying between joists. Otherwise, the thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will negatively affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; errors in the selection of insulation can prevent the achievement of this goal. Until recently, to meet environmentally safe way thermal protection was possible only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more accessible. Quite predictably, natural fibers take first place:

  • woody;
  • linen;
  • hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for individual components to penetrate into the external space. There is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool in an environmentally friendly home. Insignificant shards of glass and stone fibers cannot be seen without a magnifying glass. But they can cause significant harm to health.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic treatment of a number of materials – where it is really needed.

Fire retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely safe. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always maintaining the integrity of the insulating “pie”, from which one or another substance cannot normally escape. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and at the same time quite normal, based on data obtained from medical studies in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming increasingly in demand in frame construction. 1 cu. m of such material costs approximately 3 thousand rubles, and it will last for 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our troubled era, such insulation can reduce the entry of penetrating radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is unclear how peat blocks will behave in different conditions many years later.

Cork structures are easily placed under wallpaper, on interior walls and under the floor; but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Review of manufacturers

Reviews allow us to appreciate not only the different types of insulation materials, but also the professionalism and integrity of individual companies.

Attention: you need to take into account that we will only talk about the truly best of best companies, which over the years of competition have shown all their capabilities.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies the market with fireproof thermal insulation made from stone wool. It places emphasis on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use this mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

  • pipes;
  • facade walls;
  • room partitions;
  • roofing structures;
  • areas experiencing intense loads.

100 mm of such a slab is enough to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

French corporation "Isover" sells glass wool to its consumers in roll, slab or matte configurations. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of the products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The level of thermal conductivity also corresponds necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that are easy to install even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which uses significantly less phenol in production, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

  • slabs of moderate rigidity;
  • products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
  • hydrophobic structures of increased density;
  • products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of what specific substance is used, the thickness of the insulation must be carefully calculated. If you miscalculate this indicator, you will end up with either an insufficient effect or excessively high costs for purchasing thermal protection and working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers left without supervision, making sure that no one is checking them, will sooner or later “make a mistake” in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by indicators such as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat loss - but its disadvantages prevent the widespread use of this material. When making calculations, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a certain area. So, in Moscow and its environs the recommended layer of most good insulation materials does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use such a number of them in the Far North, the result will be disastrous for residents.

A standard formula of the form δut = (R – 0.16 – δ1/λ1 – δ2/λ2 – δi/λi) × λut has the following components (sequentially):

  • thermal resistance of structures in a specific area;
  • total thickness of all layers;
  • coefficient of thermal conductivity;
  • the ability of insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation has been chosen, the calculations have been made, it’s time to get ready for work properly. You definitely need to choose necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the slightest nuances.

  • With a dry insulation option, the “raw material” can be considered, along with the selected thermal protection, timber or metal constructions the created frame. It is also useful to choose decorative materials, waterproofing films, membranes, and vapor barriers that match the material.
  • The “wet” scheme is implemented using water-based adhesives.

Typical tools for insulating walls and roofs include:

  • screwdriver;
  • guns for applying polyurethane foam;
  • hammers;
  • jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
  • perforator;

  • spatulas;
  • hydraulic levels;
  • roulette;
  • metal scissors;
  • containers for preparing solutions, and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it greatly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, it is worth trying to purchase high-quality tools and Consumables. All devices purchased specifically or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not be possible to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark precise right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Among all the hammers, the machinist's type is best suited.

It is suitable for processing any surfaces. On the one hand, such a tool is smooth and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is pointed, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nail puller. Separate polystyrene foam and other insulating materials into parts, decorative elements can be done using saws with small tooth. The teeth should be specially set and sharpened in a special way.

For the preparation of building mixtures, only mixers with a spiral-shaped working part made of strong steel grades are quite suitable. Using rollers, it is easy to apply primers and a variety of paints, even if the surface is very rough or rough. To apply the adhesive solution for subsequent implementation of the reinforcing mesh, it is recommended to use Swiss ironing tools with teeth. The optimal tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm, it is determined by the manufacturer of the façade systems.

Self-coverage

In any case, the step-by-step instructions require installing a layer that protects from moisture. The only exception is made for those situations where such protection is already in place outside (or inside). The reason is simple - two-way blocking of water deprives it of outlet. The liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually destroy them.

The first step is usually to measure the outside surfaces and cut waterproofing material according to their size.

Next comes work with the vapor barrier. This point cannot be avoided even when hydrophobic or neutral substances that tolerate contact with water are used for insulation. After all, besides them, the “pie” also includes other parts that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it would be correct to use a special film or foamed polyethylene to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the frame racks, ensuring maximum tight pressure against the insulation.

Important: wrapping thermal protection blocks in film is a violation of the standard scheme - until all components of the frame, without exception, are covered from water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished do they begin to work with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is to cover the walls from the inside. In terms of the sum of their qualities, plasterboard and oriented particle boards will be unrivaled. It is recommended to install gypsum boards if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, thanks to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only preparation for the real finishing touches.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to obtain the latest and adequate information on all problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width of the frame board should be in a certain case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand safety measures and the storage and transportation of each insulating coating better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when attaching structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the “pie”. But communicating with knowledgeable people helps correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, try to prevent condensation coming from the warm rooms. But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many pitfalls. The choice of material for cladding is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - but meanwhile, a thoughtful design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can use natural insulation, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: master classes again help here.

To find out which insulation retains heat better, see the following video.

To achieve comfortable living in a house during the winter, you need to think about insulation at the construction stage. This will prevent cold air from entering the room and ensure compliance with temperature and humidity conditions. You can do the insulation of a frame house yourself. Step-by-step instructions for each type of structure are given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate a house?

Using thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

  • condensation from inside the premises;
  • the appearance of dampness, mold and mildew;
  • increased heating costs;
  • non-compliance temperature regime living space and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

In addition, competent technology for insulating a frame house can extend the service life of the main structures of the building.

Materials for thermal protection



House insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

  • mineral wool;
  • extruded polystyrene foam;

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this insulation. The first is based on the raw materials used for manufacturing:

  • basalt;
  • glass;
  • slag.

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation:

  • rigid slabs;
  • roll material.

It is worth noting that glass wool is only available in rolls.

For floors, rigid slabs that can withstand fairly high loads are suitable. Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be carried out using both slabs and rolls. For mansard roof best used slab material. This will allow you to easily install mineral wool insulation between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, you need to decide which structures require this additional measure.

You can protect the following building elements from the cold with your own hands:

  1. first floor floor;
  2. attic floor (if the attic is cold);
  3. attic roof;
  4. exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be done both outside and inside. It is best to install thermal insulation between the studs, as this will ensure competent work material. Insulation wooden house applying mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow events to be carried out in any weather conditions.


Double-layer insulation – guarantee of 100% thermal protection

An insulation scheme from the outside is possible if the insulation from the inside is not sufficient and it is necessary to additional insulation. Peculiarities:

  • external thermal insulation material should not create a barrier to steam. Otherwise, the resulting condensate from water vapor will accumulate between two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
  • thickening the house wall

Based on all of the above, it follows that thermal protection of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation


Double-layer insulation (double frame)

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need two-layer insulation. Adhere to the following layer order:

  1. interior decoration;
  2. vapor barrier;
  3. insulation with mineral wool (2 layers with offset racks);
  4. windproof membrane;
  5. OSB-3 for sheathing;
  6. external finishing of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires the presence of a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. In order for the insulation to maintain its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is ensured by the circulation of cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on any side, but between the frame posts. This allows you to reduce the overall thickness of the wall and significantly reduce the construction time of the building. Mineral wool is fixed between the frame posts, after which sheathing is done on both sides.

When carrying out DIY work, vapor barrier and wind protection are positioned similarly to the previous cases: steam protection is on the inside, and wind protection is on the outside.

When thermally protecting walls from the inside under a curtain wall, the order of layers is as follows:

  1. interior decoration;
  2. vapor barrier;
  3. mineral wool;
  4. superdiffusion membrane;
  5. wall design;
  6. façade finishing.

Insulation of floors


A wooden frame house is characterized by ceiling beams. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation boards are laid between the load-bearing structures of the floor. You can also use rolled materials, but spreading them will require preliminary installation of the bottom sheathing or continuous flooring.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs, the step wooden beams It is better to take the ceilings so that there is a clear gap of 580 mm between them. This will ensure maximum ease of working with 600 mm wide slabs and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When doing things with your own hands, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is on the cold air side. In the case of interfloor ceilings, protection from steam should be provided from the ceiling.


Insulation attic floor

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on your skin and into your lungs. For this, it is best to use gloves and a mask. Workers must also have special clothing that completely covers their arms and legs.

Insulation of pitched roofs

The DIY installation technology is similar to ceilings. The pitch of the rafters, as in the previous case, is selected to maintain a clear distance of 580 mm.

The work is performed in the following order:

  1. installation of the rafter system;
  2. laying a waterproofing layer on top of the rafters;
  3. thermal insulation;
  4. installation of vapor barrier;
  5. top and bottom sheathing;
  6. laying roofing material;
  7. interior ceiling decoration.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating a frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, follow simple steps:

  1. treating all wooden house structures with antiseptic compounds to prevent damage by various microorganisms;
  2. cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
  3. elimination of significant irregularities.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will ensure that the insulation securely adheres to the structures and lasts as long as possible. long term services.