There are all sorts of lamps in electrical goods stores - manufacturers go to all sorts of tricks so that each buyer finds exactly what suits him both in design and in his pocket. But a hand-made sconce is still the most original functional home decoration.
Electricity and creativity
Electrical appliances require the manufacture, installation and operation of compliance with all the rules that are prescribed by law, safety standards and the laws of physics. Therefore, if there is no special knowledge and skills in working with electrical appliances, then it is best to use the base from an old sconce for creativity, at least its electrical filling. Collect Wall Light, as they say, from scratch is only possible for someone who understands the materials, tools for collecting such equipment, knows the section of physics called "electricity", knows how to assemble electrical circuits that meet the requirements for household lighting devices. If all knowledge about this sphere of life comes down to a successfully forgotten physics course in the school curriculum, then it’s not worth the risk. It is better to use that wall lamp that has been asking for a trash heap for several years. Different types of creativity and craftsmanship allow you to create a sconce with your own hands. Photos of similar works are presented on this page. Therefore, the question of how to make a sconce with your own hands does not require a complicated answer, you just need to turn on your imagination.
Plafond for sconces - the essence of the lamp
Wall sconces perform an interesting functional task - lighting a small area of the room. They are located on the wall, and most often the light from the sconce falls down, slightly scattering on the sides. That is why wall lamps are popular for creating comfort in the bedroom, in the kitchen above the table where the whole family gathers, near the place to relax with an armchair or sofa. Such a local lighting device can have any design in any style - from eco-style to hi-tech. Only the interior of the room decides what the sconce lamp will be like. Therefore, for man-made wall lighting you can use the most different materials. The only condition is that they must be resistant to enough high temperature light bulbs at work. Although thanks to modern LED lighting devices, this question disappears by itself - the LED bulb during operation heats up to 64 degrees in the lower part, where the necessary lamp elements are located. The flask itself heats up to approximately 33-34 degrees, i.e. you can easily hold it in your hands. That is why LED bulbs allow you to use almost any material for the ceiling. Having thought about making a sconce with your own hands, you can refer to materials in available sources or print publications to choose suitable option and for your creativity.
Threads and weaving - a suitable basis for creativity
Different types weaving from threads: macrame, tatting, knitting, crocheting, on a fork - are actively used by needlewomen to decorate the interior of their home. Creating a lace bra with your own hands for a craftswoman is not a problem, you just need to find suitable scheme or develop it yourself. In preparation for work, you should first consider the basis of the ceiling. Will the lace be stretched or will it hang down, what shape is the ceiling and how to put the lace on it: observing the pattern, or will it be abstract, or undemanding to a clear correspondence of each rapport. Lace will look very elegant on a rounded ceiling classical form. And for a non-trivial solution for a do-it-yourself sconce lamp, lace can be appropriate. For example, for a high-tech style, you can use Lurex or metallic threads. But even those who do not know how to knit will make a lace sconce with their own hands, using ready-made lace. Measure the frame area for the ceiling and buy required amount the material you like with a margin for some shortcomings or unforeseen circumstances in the work - and an interesting, unusual lamp will decorate the room. In general, threads always turn out beautiful lamps. Even chaos created from textiles can be presented in an unusual way, for example, by winding threads around balloon ik, having previously smeared them with PVA glue. When the threads dry, the ball must be gently blown off by piercing with a needle. The resulting spider sphere is used as a lampshade for a lamp.
wood and light
Wooden objects look very original in any interior. Natural wood is beautiful - with its pattern, shades and color transitions. Using the natural curves of the branches, you can get interesting objects and their details. How to make a wooden sconce with your own hands? You can use several options. For example, you can take special blanks that are sold in stores for creativity. They are assembled or glued together, forming a ceiling for the lamp. You can try to make an unusual sconce from the most ordinary twigs collected during a walk in the park. Rinse small, 1.5-2.5 cm long twigs, clean them of dirt, and dry. Then inflate an ordinary balloon and stick branches on it in a chaotic manner using glue that does not destroy the rubber of the balloon, for example, building PVA. When the branches are well grasped, the ball must be pierced with a needle, it will deflate and fall behind the resulting ball of branches. The ceiling, if necessary, is covered with furniture varnish. The only thing is that it will be necessary to prepare the base on which the ceiling of the resulting diameter is attached. A lamp on the wall with your own hands can be made from unusual wooden parts. For example, by disassembling wooden clothespins for spare parts. They are assembled together so that they form a circle, gluing to the base and to each other. Each half of the clothespin has an interesting shape with recesses that are just perfect for a jute cord or decorative braid, chain, or any other material that is most appropriate for a particular interior solution. You can also use colored pencils - creating a chaotic lamp-ball or gluing them into a slender circle or semicircle to form a ceiling.
Sconce with your own hands from dishes?
Craftsmen just do not come up with something to create something interesting. For example, they use disposable plastic utensils - junk cheap material - to create interior items, including sconces, with their own hands. Plastic spoons, cutting off their cuttings, are collected in the shape of a flower, gluing them together in circles and in rows. Disposable forks, also without cuttings, are assembled, like a designer, with the help of cloves into a sphere for a ceiling. The plates are bent, getting two semicircles, and also fastened together. This is an interesting do-it-yourself sconce solution, which is actively used in decorative art.
And you can not throw away!
Unusual wall lamps are obtained from canned cans. Banks themselves already represent a rigid form that is easily suitable for a ceiling. You just need to decorate it. You can do this like this - draw a pattern on the bank like a dot painting and use a nail and a hammer to punch holes according to the pattern. So that the jar does not wrinkle when they work on it with a hammer, you need to put a wooden block inside it. The drawing should be built neatly, and the distances between the holes should be the same. When the drawing is completed, the jar needs to be painted.
An unusual do-it-yourself sconce is obtained from ordinary plastic bottles. They come in different colors, are easily cut with scissors and melted with a candle. Figures (flowers, butterflies, ribbons) are cut out of plastic, melted, shaped, and then glued to the base from the same bottle or to an old glass ceiling with glue. By the way, lost appearance the glass ceiling can be decorated in any way and give it a second life.
"Delicious" sconces with their own hands
A lot of interesting things can be done using natural materials. For example, pumpkin. Yes, you can create magic yourself, without a fairy wand, if you just want to do something with your own hands. And the pumpkin is just asking for a desktop. There are varieties of pumpkin that can only be eaten, and there are those that are not very suitable for delicious dish, but the hard shell serves as a unique creative material, for example, to create a DIY wall lamp. The pumpkin is prepared for processing, and then pictures or a mandala drawing are cut out of it, whatever you want. Such a ceiling lamp for a wall lamp will not only decorate your home for Halloween, but also give a smile on any other day.
As easy as pie
The simplest sconce lamp can be made from an ordinary box, for example, from juice or milk. It is good when such a package is covered with a layer of metallized foil from the inside, which is the best suited for creating a lamp. From such a box, an original sconce will turn out if you cut out the walls in it and tighten them, for example, with parchment paper or lace fabric, or make plot pictures on the walls of the box. Such a lamp is suitable for a children's room, because a kid can come up with a picture, and parents will help cut it out. Joint creativity will make the room more comfortable, and the family more friendly.
If there is a desire to needlework, decorating your world, then there will always be materials for creativity and interesting solutions. You just need to want to create beauty with your own hands. Good luck!
Lighting devices can not only dispel the darkness, but also give an unusual aura to your interior.
There are many different ideas with which you can make a wall lamp or any other type of lamp with your own hands.
You yourself are able to create a masterpiece that is not in any store.
Creating an extravagant chandelier
Very original thing is obtained from the simplest materials, most of which can be saved after a picnic. Lamps from various containers will look spectacular.
For this you will need:
- oval plastic bottle with a capacity of 5 liters;
- disposable spoons;
- cable with cartridge and plug;
- low power LED lamp;
- pliers;
- glue gun;
- screwdriver;
- stationery knife.
To avoid fire, use only LED bulb!
With a knife, carefully cut off the bottom of the bottle, then remove the handles from all plastic spoons. Apply a small amount of hot glue from a gun to the cut point, glue them on the bottom of the container.
Approximately you will need about seventeen pieces. Place the next and remaining rows in a checkerboard pattern.
In order to hide the neck of the bottle, put ten to twelve spoons without a handle on the glue so that they form a ring.
Pull the cartridge with the lamp and cable through the hole at the bottom of the bottle.
If you do not want to make this part yourself, you can purchase it in any department of household goods - the wire, socket and plug are already connected together.
Make a hole in the lid for the cord by drilling it with a drill or a hot self-tapping screw. Screw on the lid, put on the previously prepared ring of spoons on top. Exclusive LED lamp ready for operation.
A few ideas for creating lampshades
It is enough just to create a lamp from improvised materials for a house or a summer residence.
Idea N1
- any hollow dishes (it can be an old pan or flower pot);
- wire;
- polyurethane foam and gloves;
- paint and brush;
- sharp knife;
- pliers.
Place the object taken as a basis upside down. Wind the wire around the product the way you want to see the lampshade, since all the turns copy its shape. Put on gloves and squeeze the foam a little bit onto the frame so that it completely covers the wire, leave to dry.
Then, using a knife, give the contours more evenness and paint in any color. This option will be the best for a street lamp.
Idea N2 is a classic
- thick wire;
- pliers;
- small water bottle.
Note!
To make the upper central element on the bottle, wind a coil of wire, then remove it and cut off the excess. The ends must be fixed so that they form a ring whose diameter should allow the cartridge to pass through at the bottom, and prevent it from coming out at the top.
Next, you need to make a large outer ring from the wire. To secure it, you will need four equal pieces of wire. Connect one edge of each with a small one, and the other with a large ring. The upper part of the lamp is ready.
The largest will be the lower circle of wire, it must be attached to the second upper one, evenly placing five identical pieces of wire.
To decorate the frame, pass the wire through the second upper ring, giving it a wavy shape, wind it onto the base. Do the same for the bottom ring.
Note!
On a walk through the forest, take an interestingly shaped branch with you, an excellent wooden lamp will come out of it. Wash the branch and peel off the bark from it with a knife, varnish it for wood. For good stability, screw the lamp to a heavy stand with screws, it can also serve as a tree.
A better option is an oak, find a broken branch and saw off a circle of at least five centimeters thick from it. Coat it with varnish or paint it too.
Making a lampshade with children
There is an option for making a lampshade with children. For the frame, you need a canister or bottle with a capacity of five liters. You need to roll the paper strips into a tube, it is best to wind them around a pencil or sushi stick, then glue the remaining edge with glue.
These blanks must be glued to the frame in several layers so that there are no gaps. When the glue dries, you can put the lampshade on a table lamp or make a ceiling lamp that looks very unusual.
Experienced needlewomen can knit or crochet a lampshade, decorating it with knitted flowers and ribbons.
To give the product the correct shape, you can use a starch solution or ordinary PVA glue. Look at the proposed photos of knitted lamps, how much tenderness and comfort they have!
Note!
This article told you how to make a lamp with your own hands. Using the information received and your own imagination, now you can create an exclusive lighting fixture for any room.
DIY lamp photo
In this article we will figure out how to make a complete and safe lamp with your own hands. IN initial publication cycle – – were considered General requirements to quality, how to form a luminous flux, as well as how to choose a light source and - safety first of all - the rules for connecting a stationary lamp to the mains. From the previous article, we learned how to make the main lighting parts of the lamp -. Now it's time to take on the solid, reliable and beautiful constructive basis of all this.
About LEDs
LEDs as lighting sources are becoming increasingly popular: they are very economical, durable, almost do not heat up, which provides ample opportunities for self-construction and design. In addition, low-voltage power makes LED light sources safe. Therefore, in this article a significant proportion of the material is devoted to how to make an LED lamp yourself.
However, the quality of light from LEDs has not yet reached the ideal: his spectrum is pretty tight. You can soften it with various lighting techniques, which was discussed in previous articles. But thanks to the low-voltage power supply, a street or garden LED light can be made independently without special measures precautions, and be autonomous; then voluminous disappear excavation and cable laying on site. In this section, we will focus more on LED lamps.
Some examples of what can be achieved by taking on lighting equipment with your own hands are shown in the photo. A similar selection “for ideas” or “for inspiration” will be compiled by anyone who knows how to use the Internet. And here we will deal with things that are not so aesthetic: how to embody all this in the material. Cheap, reliable and practical. Preferably at home, on your knees.
Materials, tools, equipment, technologies
To make a good lamp, expensive and / or hard-to-find materials are not needed. Former technologies focused on incandescent lamps, which are very hot and consume a lot of current. The current homemade ones have housekeeper lamps and LEDs that emit little heat, which simplifies the design.
For the manufacture of a lamp, neither in appearance nor in quality inferior to industrial designs, we need cuttings of metal tubes, steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 mm, galvanized sheet steel 0.4-1 mm thick and pieces of plastic or inexpensive plastic products, see below. And in many cases, to achieve the desired result, it is possible to get by with unnecessary trash. Wood processing for complex lamp- a special case, we will not bypass it.
Note: good old glass also should not be discounted. Take a look at this tutorial for example: diy.ru/post/3916/. That's what can be achieved by working at home with such difficult material. Only one small "but" - what the author of the product (a man, no doubt, very skillful and quick-witted) calls cutting, in fact, edging. However, how to call it is the business of letter-eaters, and it is enough for the master to make the contraption good.
Very simple but tasteful
Examples of excellent lamps made from improvised materials, namely, scraps of wood and paper, are well-known Chinese lanterns, see fig. When using modern light sources, their fire hazard is negligible, much less than that of an electric kettle. The basis is most often a rack frame, pasted over with paper, pos. 1. For the frame of what is in pos. 2, thin bamboo sticks are better (you can split an old rod into strips), or the ends of modern fiberglass rods; sold in fishing stores. The joints are wrapped with thread and glued. Paper (preferably rice) after pasting is lightly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. When dry, it will stretch. After that, the paper is varnished for strength.
A Chinese lantern can also be made entirely of wood: chopsticks or table skewers (wooden twigs on which barbecue and kebab are served at the table). Both are made of light, fairly well-reflecting light, wood. And its slightly rough surface effectively scatters light, which softens it.
From chopsticks, placing them with broadened heads alternately to the left, then to the right, they gain side light-transmitting panels, pos. 3. And from table skewers you get a good ceiling lamp for the kitchen or hallway, pos. 4. The ends of the sticks (they are made of soft wood) are simply pierced with a sewing needle with a fishing line threaded into it.
Plastics
But back to the materials, they are not finished yet. Excellent details of chandeliers, table lamps and floor lamps (cups, caps, see below) are obtained from reusable plastic tableware- bowls, glasses, saucers: the rim on the bottom is carefully cut off or sanded down. Then this place is passed 2-3 times with increasingly fine sandpaper; the last pass - "velvet" - and polished with felt with GOI paste. The decorative, lighting and technological (ease of processing) qualities of such parts are very good.
The second type of plastic, which allows you to make a very original lamp (see Fig.) - polymer clay Or just plastic. In terms of lighting properties, it is not inferior to light wood, and in a thin, 2-3 mm layer, it is translucent, like milk glass, i.e. softens the light very well.
Polymer clay is available in various colors immediately-plastic in plastic bags and bars, like plasticine. The latter are quite hard at first, but soften when kneading. To speed up and facilitate softening, put 3-4 drops of vegetable oil on the bar, and start kneading when it is absorbed.
Lampshades are molded from soft plastic on a mandrel lubricated with petroleum jelly. Immediately, if necessary, they fill the texture with a brush, at the bottom right in fig. To obtain an openwork ceiling, the tip of the package is cut off and the mass is squeezed out with a sausage. After about a day, the product dries up, then you can, without removing it from the mandrel, cut out figures, scallops, frills. Completely the product dries up in 3-7 days.
Bar plastic is used for the manufacture of lamp stands. Having molded the workpiece, it is baked in the oven at 120-130 degrees. When a brownish crust forms on the product, the gas is covered to a minimum and “baked” for another 1-3 hours, depending on the size of the part. It should cool completely in the oven, which is undesirable to open. The baked workpiece can be cut, sawn, drilled, polished, painted. In this way, lamp cases are sometimes not only original, but also quite spicy (see the figure), or even frivolous on the verge of decency, or even beyond it.
Ceramics
Since we are talking about coasters, let's try to make a lamp out of a bottle. Ceramic beverage vessels crafted by in-house designers deserve best use than garbage, moonshine or recyclables for pennies.
There are 2 problems here: stability and holes for cable entry and a switch. The first is solved with sand, poured into the bottle by 2/3 or 3/4. To solve the second, it would seem that a tubular diamond drill is needed, which is expensive, wears out quickly, and requires a high-speed drilling machine. And we can do without all this:
- We will select a copper tube of a suitable diameter.
- We will securely fix the vessel that we will drill so that the drill enters along the normal (perpendicular) to its surface in this place.
- Around the place of the future hole, we will fashion a roller 4-6 mm high from plasticine.
- Let's rub a couple of pieces of fine skin against each other over some pallet to get about a teaspoon of corundum powder.
- Pour it into the hole and drip 3-5 drops of engine oil - you can drill.
For drilling, a drill clamped in a chuck copper tube it is better to put it in a frame that turns it into a desktop drilling machine. Such beds are sold in tool stores; the prices are divine, the benefit to the artisan is invaluable. Moreover, you can buy to the bed turntable with degree scale.
They drill ceramics with copper and corundum in jerks: slightly pressed - raised - pressed again - raised. Abrasive particles first eat into copper and drill, but then they break out and crumble. Pulse drilling constantly renews the corundum “plating” on copper, and the oil prevents the powder from scattering and speeds up the work. The main thing is that the tube, with each feed, falls exactly into the already selected groove.
Electrical fittings
For a novice lighting engineer, it is best, perhaps, to use cartridges for lamps for a regular E27 base with fastening with union shaped nuts (threaded flanges); its designation begins with E27H, and the drawing is shown in fig. It will not work to fasten such a cartridge, or a regular one with a skirt, with a threaded fitting in the lid: if there is an M10x1 or M12x1 die, then at home, with a manual wrench, cut the thread on a thin-walled tube without cutting it and not rolling it, very difficult, even with grease. Under mounting with flanges, you will have to make a mounting ring, as described in the article on lampshades, it is much easier.
Note: if a wall lamp is made in which the lamp is located along the base, then cartridges with a side bar are usually used, see fig., but they are more expensive. In this case, you can also get by with a flange cartridge: an Ω-shaped clamp is bent from the wire and fastened to the base with self-tapping screws.
The second thing you need is a screw terminal connector, or a terminal block, or just a terminal block, to connect the lamp to the wiring. For a chandelier, it is mandatory not only for the sake of ease of installation, but also according to the requirements of safety regulations: suddenly the chandelier breaks, its thinner wires break out of the terminal block, and the ceiling wiring does not suffer, which will prevent an accident and ceiling-grooving repair work.
It is better to take a terminal block of the “comb” type, see Fig.:
Such are compact, reliable, exclude accidental short circuits, and by biting the jumpers between sections, it is elementary to get a connector for the required number of wires. It is allowed to enter no more than 2 stranded wires with a copper cross section of up to 1.4 square meters into each terminal. mm in total and not more than 1 single-core, regardless of the cross-sectional area of its conductive core.
About wooden lamps
The tree, on the one hand, is easily processed and looks solidly finished. On the other hand, to make an elegant wooden lamp, you will have to use some special technological methods. Which we will consider.
cable channels
The first problem that arises in the manufacture wooden lamp: how to make cable channels in long parts. To do this, without special equipment, “on the knee”, you can use a wood drill with a narrowed 6-sided shank, see fig. A metal tube is tightly put on it, crimped, and the opposite end is bent in a T-shape to make a manual collar; to facilitate and greater accuracy of work, it is better to take a two-band drill.
Through axial holes in long wooden parts are drilled in advance, before bending:
- At both ends of the workpiece, blind holes of the desired diameter are drilled, with a depth of 30-40 mm, trying to ensure that they go as accurately as possible along the axis of the part;
- They are drilled with the described manual wrench alternately from both ends, each time passing no more than 3-4 thicknesses of the part;
- The chips from the holes after each pass are carefully removed;
- After the jumper is broken, the hole passes through twice, from one and the other end. This is necessary to remove the step inside, which the cable can catch on when tightened.
How to bend a tree?
It is quite possible to make a lamp from bent wooden parts with your own hands: seasoned thin-layer wood softens under heating, without delamining, but when cooled down, retains the shape given to it. The easiest to bend is bamboo, walnut and soft wood, eg. Linden. Harder - wood of medium hardness: maple, ash, hornbeam. For bending oak, beech, mountain ash, etc. hard rock a novice cabinetmaker is better not to take it. MDF also bends well.
The wood is bent either steamed in boiling water, or heated dry to more than 150 degrees. The first method is simpler, but suitable, except for bamboo, for a few species. The second is more difficult, but more accurate, because. wood does not swell and when cooled, respectively, does not shrink.
For bending wood, a cut is needed steel pipe: Welded end for steaming or both open for dry bending. The pipe for steaming is installed obliquely, a workpiece is placed in it, poured with water on top and boiled. Boiling water must be violent so that the workpiece is bathed in steam bubbles. The process is continued for 10-120 minutes, depending on the thickness, species and condition of the tree. You can take out the workpiece for a few seconds to check its readiness, but you only need to add boiling water instead of boiled water. Dry bending, blowing the workpiece in the pipe with a building hair dryer. First, on a sample of wood, you need to check what temperature it can withstand without charring and cracking.
How to tighten cables?
The cables are tightened into the tubular parts of the fixtures using a guide rod - "fishing rods" - made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. "Fishing rod" should be completely flat; a smoothly curved wire wound from a reel can also be crumpled in a narrow channel. The wire of the “fishing rod” is straightened, stretching it through a rag tightly clenched in a fist. The best guides are made from enameled winding wire, which is smooth and slippery.
"Fishing rod" is introduced from the far end. Before this, its tip is tightly bent, see Fig., To be rounded. The thrust is pushed into the curved channels, slightly feeding and turning. When moving from channel to channel (see below), the running end is directed with thin long tweezers or a screwdriver.
When the end of the rod appears from the opposite side, it is cleaned by 20-30 mm and tinned. The cable wires are cleaned and tinned for the same amount, up to 3 per 1 "fishing rod". Then everything is twisted together and soldered. The twist is folded opposite to the direction of tightening so that it does not cling. Tighten by alternately feeding the cable and pulling the guide. When tightening, the cable in the channel must not be taut all the time! If it is hooked, they pull it back a little, turn it a little and pull it again.
Note: up to 4 2-wire double-insulated cables with a cross-section of copper wires up to 0.5 sq. M can be pulled into a straight metal tube with an inner diameter of 12 mm. mm. In a channel of the same diameter in a tree - only 1 of the same cable.
Starting from the ceiling
Suspension of the lamp to the ceiling or wall is the most critical and vulnerable node. Hanging fixtures at the 1st point is allowed only if the base is a viscous durable material, for example. oak beams, pos. a) in fig. In other cases, you must either use at least 2 suspension points, or the luminaire anchor must press on the material from above, i.e. the ceiling must work in compression, pos. c) - e).
A chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is suspended using a mounting plate, see fig. on right. The distance between the centers of the mounting holes in the plank should be, for a concrete ceiling, at least 9 of their diameters. If the ceiling is plasterboard, or suspended, or stretched, then the suspension is lowered from the main ceiling to the level of the decorative one using wooden or metal crosses or plywood boards, at the top there. How to make a suspension in some other cases, see below.
The main requirement for the suspension is that the lamp should never hang on wires. It should be held either by a rigid bar, or a strong cord / rope, or a cradle made of chains or the same cords. Under the top cap of the gimbal, the power cable must lie in a loose loop, and must not be pulled, pinched or pinched anywhere.
How to make a lamp?
Now he will try to reduce the information received into a single product, at the sight of which the guests will gasp as sincerely as the master expressed himself while working. We will be guided by the following principles:
- Complex and / or technological operations requiring special skills are avoided in every possible way.
- Adhesive or solder joints are used only auxiliary, holding the parts to be joined from displacement. The product assembled without gluing and soldering should, in the absence of external influences, remain intact in its normal position for an indefinitely long time.
- From an additional tool, we will try to get by with a hand-held electric drill and a small removable bench vise with a screw clamp for attaching to the table.
Let's start with a chandelier, as the most complex type of household lamp.
Chandelier
On a cord
The simplest suspension of a chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is on a cord, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, 4 additional holes will have to be drilled in the lampshade mounting ring (see article on lampshades); marked in green in pos. 1a. Cord knots must be knitted that do not slip or unravel, for example. any fishing hooks. Cord - any non-rotting cross lay (eg linen) with a diameter in an unstretched state of 8 mm or more. Cords and ropes of spiral lay are not intended for long-term tensile load!
The most critical part is the suspension hook (red CP). It must be bent from steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm; a hook made of 6 mm wire rod can withstand weight up to 35 kg. Of course, if you buy a ready-made hook for a chandelier, it will not be worse.
Suspension rods with the same weight - from 4 mm wire; with a weight of up to 5 kg, you can get by with 1.5 mm, and with a weight of up to 12 kg - 2.5-3 mm. The ring is made of galvanized sheet 0.4 and 0.8 mm, respectively, or, for weights up to 35 kg, 1.4 mm.
Note: steel soldering technology at home is described in.
In this case, it is better to fix the upper cup from slipping with a rubber ring, because. the spring washer can crush the cable passing under it. good pallet obtained from a computer disk. Depending on whether the lamp is in the lampshade or in the ceiling, it is turned down, respectively, with the painted or mirror side. Radial cuts are made under the stretch marks of the lampshade in the pallet.
The top cup and cap are made of plastic utensils, see above. The cap lies freely on the pallet. Glue - any assembly.
Note: the bottom nut of the cartridge must enter the hole in the pan, and not press it. Otherwise, it may be difficult to repair or clean the chandelier.
On the tube
In a chandelier suspended on a rigid tubular rod (pos. 2), firstly, it is not necessary to bend the suspension rods so that it is convenient to knit a knot on their crosshairs. Secondly, the number of pulls can be anything from 3. Accordingly, the ring can also be made without an additional row of holes, such as is described in the article on lampshades.
It is preferable to fix the cap in such a chandelier with a shaped (decorative) spring washer. It can be obtained from a thick plastic button by drilling a hole in it in the center 0.5-0.7 mm narrower than the outer diameter of the tube and making an oblique cut at 45 degrees to the axis of the washer, a round link of a plastic chain with the same cut, etc. P.
An eye for a hook in the suspension bar is obtained by flattening the tube and drilling a hole in the resulting lamella (petal). After that (and not before), a hole is drilled for laying the cable, otherwise dangerous mechanical stresses may remain in the material. A bar for a lamp weight of up to 15 kg can be made from pipes of the following types:
- Seamless steel - inner diameter from 6 mm, wall thickness from 0.5 mm. Finishing - painting or covering with a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) of the desired color.
- Steel with a seam - vnutr. diameter from 8 mm, wall thickness from 0.7 mm. The finish is the same.
- Copper gas in a plastic sheath - vnutr. diameter from 8 mm, wall from 1 mm. Finishing is not necessary, and so it shines with copper for years. Can't solder adhesive connection you need to remove the plastic cover in that place.
- For air conditioning systems made of oxygen-free copper - int. diameter from 10 mm, wall from 1 mm. Very easy to solder and glue. To preserve the copper shine, you need to cover the finished rod twice with transparent acrylic varnish on water based diluted twice with distilled water.
- Simple red copper - int. diameter from 12 mm, wall from 1.5 mm. It is soldered after stripping, you need to use flux paste with borax. It darkens with time and under coating, so it is better to make lamps in retro style from such tubes.
- Plumbing propylene - very durable, but do not stick and, of course, do not solder. It is useless to finish, the design in any case turns out to be terrifying.
many-horned
From the tubes, you can make chandeliers with brackets-horns for individual illuminators. The device for connecting the horns with the rod is shown in pos. 5. The horns, with their even number, are connected in pairs with through threaded studs M2.5-M4 with nuts and spring washers. Pairs of holes for the studs are located at different levels, this must be taken into account when calculating the height of the straight part of the horn and making markings on their blanks. You can horns, incl. with an odd number of them, fasten with pairs of small self-tapping screws for metal, however, then the cables must be tightened very carefully so as not to tear the insulation on the sharp ends of the hardware protruding inward.
Note: complex / extended tube bends are formed section by section, gradually moving the manual pipe bender along the length of the future bend.
If the free ends of the horns are without squiggles (sorry - volute), etc. curls, then it is better to cover the knot of their connection with the barbell with a cap lying on the lower cup (shown by a dotted line in pos. 5). In addition, then the laying of cables will be much simpler: a terminal block will fit under the cap, in which the cables from the horns will converge, and only one 2-wire will go up in the bar.
Multi-track chandeliers are most often made with switchable light. The diagram for connecting lamps to a 2-section switch is shown in pos. 6. Do not forget - SB switches (switches) must be included in the phase wire! And yet, it is extremely important: if the house is equipped with protective grounding, never use a ground wire as a neutral (zero, N) regardless of the power supply scheme (grounded or isolated neutral)! The earthing switch is always in yellow insulation with a longitudinal stripe, and the neutral insulation in properly arranged wiring is black. But anyway, before starting electrical work you need to find zero and phase with a phase indicator!
About phases, zero and earth
The safety regulations (PTB), electrical installations (PUE) and the Code of Practice (SP) for the production of electrical work for related industries (for example, construction) unambiguously regulate the color of the insulation of only ground wires - yellow with a green stripe; colors for phase conductors A, B, C and neutral are only recommended. The reason is that in countries where the only acceptable power supply system is an isolated neutral (Germany, Japan, etc.), it is customary to designate phase A in white or light gray. without a hitch" is not always possible.
The chandelier is heavy...
For ceiling lights weighing from 15 kg, fastening on the 1st rod or cord is no longer considered reliable enough. These need to be hung on a chain or rope cradle of 3-4 branches. 1 branch should support the full weight of the luminaire with 3 times the margin.
The cradle is fixed to the ceiling using a triangular or square carrier plate made of steel with a thickness of 5 mm or more, pos. 7 in fig. The number of attachment points is 4 or 5, respectively. An attachment point in the center is mandatory: without it, if one of the corner fixtures is excessively loosened, the mechanical load will “slam” onto the next weakest one, the suspension will break out like a domino and the chandelier will “all of a sudden” collapse.
Corner attachment points should be located on a conditional circle (red dotted line) with a diameter in centimeters of at least 0.85 of the weight of the chandelier in kilograms. In any case, the smallest distance between the centers of the holes in the concrete ceiling must be from 9 of their diameters, as with a 2-point suspension on a plank, see above. Eyelets or hooks under the branches of the cradle are welded to the carrier plate. Homemade eyelets can be made from 6mm wire rod.
… and ultralight
Fans make a lot of lamps from disposable plastic tableware, PET bottles and paper. Their weight is negligible, therefore, firstly, it is permissible to mount the cartridge in the lampshade / ceiling lamp from the same kebab sticks, see fig. In this case, the cartridge is taken E17 or E10 with lugs, see fig. left. The "ears" of the cartridge with the help of a sewing needle are simply tied to the crosshairs of the sticks with threads, thin copper wire or fishing line.
Secondly, the suspension of an ultralight lamp can also be made cradle, but from a fishing line. Its branches are inserted into the ceiling cap along with the cable, as for a chandelier on a cord. Such a suspension is almost invisible. If the cable (we recall that it should not be stretched, pinched or pressed anywhere) is twisted or twisted into a spiral, then an ignorant guest may at first be dumbfounded: levitation? telekinesis? superconductor and magnets?
Floor lamp
A floor lamp based on the same design and technological principles is, in general, an inverted chandelier on a rigid rod with some differences, pos. 3 in fig. above with fixture designs. First: the bar (which is already a stand) is made of a steel pipe with an inner diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Ring - galvanized from 0.7 mm. Second: all joints of steel parts are soldered.
Further, in the lower support of the floor lamp, a sufficiently heavy and extensive structure should be provided for attaching the bottom of the rack. Under the floor lamp of the usual type, a cross will go from about 450x450 mm from an oak beam 100x100 mm. A blind hole with a depth of 75-80 mm is drilled in it in the center along the outer diameter of the rack, and glued into the socket mounting adhesive. Also glue the rack into the shelf of the floor lamp. It will be useful, both in design and strength, to apply a polished washer with a diameter of 60 mm and a thickness of 2 mm (steel) or 4 mm (aluminum) on the glue. The described design allows the amateur to do without custom-turned parts in the manufacture of a floor lamp.
Desk lamp
Worker table lamp on our principles of construction, it is even simpler than a floor lamp, pos. 4: quite massive and solid foundation(wood, plastic) with stepped through hole along the axis. A lampshade ring is laid on the step and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then at the same time it will press the whiskers of the lampshade extensions and it will not hang out.
Note: for the base of a table lamp from ceramic or glassware, you need to make a pommel-knob with a stepped hole mounted on its neck. The most suitable material for this is plastic.
For outdoor lighting
Let's leave outdoor lamps for 220 V purchased: it is impossible to make a "forever" sealed cable gland for mains voltage and also a sealed case with glass at home. We will work with voltages up to 12 V, then the cable entry is quite simple, see fig. And if the light source is powered from a current stabilizer, then no short circuit will be scary.
However, things may not come to electricity: for temporary lighting in the garden or at a picnic and in the 21st century, an ordinary candle is often more convenient and cheaper, it is also more romantic. And you can make a candle lantern with your own hands from coffee can in just a few minutes, see the video:
Video: do-it-yourself candle lantern from a coffee can
Such a lamp is suitable for a light bulb; then there is no need for ventilation holes and the carrying handle can be fixed on the lid, which is more secure.
A permanent outdoor lamp should already be electric. The main problem with this is reliable sealing. Helps here again glassware with screw-on lid: Outdoor lighting fixture works well out of a can. In this case, since a more powerful light source is required, it is better to take a vessel from under conservation. The cable entry pipe is made by breaking through the cover with a round pointed rod. For complete tightness, aquarium silicone is applied once and for all to the rim of the lid from the inside before screwing.
The lamp "once and for all" involves the use of very reliable and durable light sources. Requirements for its quality and spectrum fade into the background, because. illuminates non-residential or working room. Taking into account these conditions, it is better to make an outdoor lamp on the porch or, say, at the entrance to the garage from an LED strip: it will give quite bright lighting with a negligible consumption of electricity. An example of the manufacture of such a lamp, see:
Video: do-it-yourself garden lamp in 15 minutes
In the garden and in general on the site, high brightness of lighting is no longer needed, here, in general, if only not to get off the path and see the door to the bathhouse, cellar, barn or bathroom. On the other hand, it is very, very desirable to have a garden lamp autonomous: here the point is not the cost of electricity, but the cable, and who would like to make trenches in a well-groomed area?
Powered Garden Lights solar panels(SB) and buffer battery(batteries) are on sale, but they are either expensive or short-lived. Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to do it on our own, especially since it is quite possible:
- 4 white LEDs with a current of 20 mA each in a lampshade made of milky glass or a frosted plastic bottle, more or less acceptable for garden needs, will illuminate a circle with a diameter of 4-5 m. With a current of 10 mA each, you can still see in the light spot where the stone is, and where is the pit. Total average 60 mA.
- The battery, taking into account the weak recharging in winter and the decrease in capacity in the cold, should give the maximum current of the illuminators for at least 30 hours. Finger batteries for 2500-3500 mAh, frost-resistant up to -20, are on sale. We take the minimum allowable battery capacity of 2500 mAh.
- Voltage drop across the luminous diode approx. 2 V. In order to stabilize the total current consumption and the battery discharge mode, on which its resource significantly depends, we give twice as much to the quenching resistors, for a total battery voltage we get 6 V.
- The SB, taking into account the energy efficiency of the Ni-Cd battery of 74%, should give a current of approx. 75 mA. Based on the winter in the middle latitudes, we take a rated current of 100 mA.
- Also, taking into account the efficiency of the battery in terms of energy and voltage losses during charging, we take the SB voltage of 9 V.
- In order for the battery resource not to fall from overcharging, the recharge current through it should not be more than 5% of the hourly discharge current. With a battery capacity of 2500 mAh and a short circuit current of 100 mA, this condition is met, even more so with a 3500 mAh battery. That is, instead of an expensive and complex charge controller, you can simply put a silicon rectifier diode.
A diagram of an autonomous garden lamp, built taking into account the described conditions, is shown in the figure:
Despite its simplicity, the battery in it is never brought to degradation of the active medium due to overcharging, and only in exceptional cases can it reach a deep discharge; therefore, its resource remains normal when operating in harsh temperature conditions. "Zest" here - SB. Their internal resistance is large and non-linear, according to a power law, grows with increasing load current, as a result of which the short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly greater than the nominal one. From this point of view, it is more profitable to use less expensive polysilicon SBs in this circuit.
The CU control device closes the switch S when the SB voltage drops to the "twilight" level. VD1 will close by then and the battery will stop charging. It is connected to the battery only for power supply. Switch - diode or transistor optocoupler or electromagnetic relay; in this case, the reed switch is better, because a conventional one with a low voltage coil will take more current than all LEDs. In this case, it is impossible to use a thyristor optocoupler as an S: in order for the opened thyristor to close, the current through it must drop to a very small value, almost to zero. Since the current is constant here, the thyristor, once opened, will not “quiet” until the battery is completely planted.
About aquarium lighting
For lighting aquariums, special linear fluorescent lamps. Not like flower shelf phytolamps: the spectrum of aquarium lamps is tailored to the optical properties of water and the needs of life aquatic plants. Both lamps are unsuitable for general lighting of premises: the light that favors photosynthesis is by no means always useful for human vision.
Problems with the choice of fixtures are familiar to many. Lamps are purchased last, so combining them with all other interior elements can be difficult. But you should not despair. After all, spectacular lamps can be made independently, without spending a lot of time and money.
1. New Year's decor on the chandelier
Plastic beads, which can be purchased in the department New Year's decor, you can decorate the finished lampshade. Bright colors and shine will turn the lamp into a real decoration of any interior.
2. Urban landscape
The outlines of city roofs, cut out of dark paper, are glued onto a light lampshade. Such an application will easily transform a boring plain lamp.
3. The whole world at a glance
In every house there are old cards that lie unused for years. From them you can make a lamp with your own hands. Just wrap a piece of the appropriately sized card around the old lampshade. For a neater look, the paper can be coated with acrylic varnish.
4. From papier-mâché
To make an original lamp with your own hands, you will have to remember the papier-mâché technique, familiar to everyone since childhood. The paper must be torn into small pieces and left for a couple of hours in an aqueous PVA solution. Then the object is covered with paper pulp layer by layer. desired shape For example, an inflated balloon. After the papier-mâché has dried, the lampshade is ready.
5. The second life of old newspapers
Just pasting a lampshade with a newspaper artificially aged with tea or coffee is too simple a solution. Cut out circles from it and glue them so that they partially cover each other. An interesting play of light and shadow is guaranteed. Additionally, it is better to varnish the lampshade.
6. Eternal lampshade
From an old metal basket or ordinary wire, you can make a lamp with your own hands, which will become a champion in strength and durability. In addition, such a lampshade is also completely fireproof.
7. From bright cocktail tubes
A lamp made of cocktail tubes looks democratic, but at the same time spectacular. Just glue the tubes of one of the sides onto the old lampshade with silicone glue. If you cut the tubes in half, the lamp will turn out to be smaller.
8. Chic and shine
Beads that have not been used can be used to decorate the lamp. Thread them onto thin jewelry wire (available at craft stores) and attach it to the metal base of the lampshade.
9. Clear geometry
Cocktail tubes, painted in gold or silver, will become the material for making a lamp with your own hands. Between themselves they are fastened with a threaded thread.
10. Lace patterns
Just cover or glue a plain lampshade with contrasting lace. In the first case, it is better to use elastic lace: they will fit snugly against the surface of the lampshade and look neater.
11. Paper Chaos
Plain white paper rolled into tubes becomes the raw material for the original lampshade. Glue them together in a chaotic manner, moving from bottom to top.
12. A cozy lamp for needlewomen
All buttons that do not find a use for themselves can be used to make a cute lamp. String the buttons on strong threads, and fasten them to the top of the lampshade.
13. In harmony with nature
A branch of an intricate shape will be an excellent basis for an unusual lamp. In addition to it, you will need several light bulbs in cartridges. Just wrap the wires around the branch.
14. Almost edible chandelier
The base from an old lampshade, decorated with cutlery, looks quite brutal. Such a lamp will perfectly fit into the interior of a country-style kitchen or loft.
15. Delicate textile petals
For the manufacture of such a lamp, a fabric is selected whose edges do not crumble. The petals cut out of it are attached to the lampshade with glue.
16. From decorative rope
Generously smear the base for the future lampshade with a thick one and wrap it tightly with a rope with a rough texture. It is not necessary to use as a basis old lamp. Suitable even old crockery such as glasses or bowls.
17. Lamp in a skirt
Translucent textiles, for example, tulle from old curtains, can find a second life. Having collected it in the upper part in folds, fix it on a boring lampshade.
18. Patchwork
A lot of multi-colored shreds are tied on the basis of an old lampshade. The more of them, the better.
19. From favorite postcards
Often postcards and photos, even those that you like, lie idle for years. Paste them over a boring lamp, and it will instantly change.
20. Our whole life is a game
A deck that is missing a few cards should not be thrown away. Thick glossy paper with a contrasting pattern is an excellent material for decorating a lampshade, practical and beautiful.
So, the lighting problem is solved. It's time to familiarize yourself with
When there is a desire to change the situation in the apartment and add a little originality to it, start with the little things. Try to change the lampshade, and you will be surprised at the transformation of your family nest.
And if you manage to find an original model that differs from analogues, then the changes will impress not only you, but also your guests.
True, unique lampshades cost decent money, because piece work eminent masters can not be purchased for a penny.
But after all, no one bothers you to create your own unique masterpiece from cheap, and sometimes even junk materials, which will look much better than the samples presented in the store.
All you need is simple materials, a little patience and a flight of fancy, and we will tell you how to make a lampshade with your own hands.
materials
You can create a masterpiece from everything that you have at hand: fabric, paper, thread, twine, wire, plastic bottle, beads or beads.
In general, absolutely everything is suitable, even what you usually send in a garbage bag.
Don't believe? Just look at the photo of the lampshade.
frame
If you have a frame from an old lampshade, then this is just wonderful.
However, do not be upset if one is not found, because you can create a frame yourself from ordinary wire.
Copper, aluminum, steel - everything that you can independently combine into a single structure will do.
The metal frame of the classic lampshade consists of three rings and six jumpers between them. The small ring is a holder, which is connected by three jumpers to a ring of a larger diameter.
The same, in turn, is connected by jumpers to the last ring. The following photos will help you understand the design.
From fabric
When a lampshade frame is available, the easiest way to create your own masterpiece is to wrap the base with a cloth. For this you will need:
- paper (newspaper);
- scissors;
- textile;
- chalk or pencil;
- threads.
Wrap the frame with newspaper in such a way as to form a pattern out of it. Then transfer the resulting shape to the fabric with chalk, adding 1 cm on each side to the seam.
Make a pattern, chop off the edges and sew the sides, forming a cover for the base of the future lampshade. We bend the upper and lower edges of the "cover" in such a way as to close the rings of the frame and fix it with a seam.
Note!
Voila, your lampshade for the floor lamp is almost ready. It remains to add a few highlights to your taste, giving it originality.
From threads
How to make a lampshade when there is no frame? As easy as pie.
Take a balloon without drawings, glue, thread, marker and start creating.
First you need to inflate the balloon and mark on it the upper and lower borders of your future masterpiece. Then take the threads and wrap them around the ball, trying not to protrude beyond the marked contours.
Apply glue diluted 1:1 with water to each layer of thread. When the density of the wound thread satisfies you, fix the cut edge and hang the ball to dry. After 3-4 hours, the threads will dry. Then pierce the ball and carefully detach it from the walls of the finished lampshade.
Leaves and flower petals woven between the layers of threads can give additional charm to a lampshade made of threads.
Note!
The ball, decorated with sparkling droplets of beads, also looks original. In general, watch and be inspired.
From paper
regular sheets office paper, glossy magazines, a cheap newspaper, an unnecessary book or an ordinary notebook, paper towel or a napkin - these are all future lampshades.
It doesn’t matter if there is a frame or not, the main thing is that there are scissors, glue and paper. A thousand and one versions of such lampshades can be described with the words “cut and stick”.
The main thing is not to forget a few simple rules:
- a paper lampshade is safest to use with economy light bulbs, which heat up much less than incandescent bulbs;
- the diameter of the lampshade for lamps should be large so that the paper does not get too hot;
- for a bright room, you can make a lampshade from thick paper, but for dark, thin, well-transmitting light is needed;
- be careful with color. For example, red or yellow paper will add warmth to the room, green and blue - cold.
Well, that's all. Charge with new ideas, arm yourself with improvised means and forward to easy changes that bring warmth and comfort to your home.
Note!
DIY lampshade photo
